Noisy overflow...help!!!

[cmiani2002]

Hi,
I just finished setting up my new 50G tank, and I am testing it with tap water in the garage.
The overflow is really noisy, apparently in the bulkhead area, where there are 2 consecutive 90 deg. elbows.
The pipe is 1-1/2 in. in diameter.
No noise from water falling in the overflow area or discharging in the sump.
Suggestions????

[werew]

When you first setup a tank, the plumbing will be a lot louder at first because the walls of the plumbing haven't built up a slime coat on them. The wall's surface is still "raw" per say, nowhere near as smooth as they'll be say.. 1-2 weeks after the setup has been up and running.

Another thing to note is you're not using saltwater, which is much denser than freshwater. Freshwater's acoustic properties are much "louder/sharper" than saltwater. I'm not saying running it with saltwater will TOTALLY silence the noise, but it should make a noticeable difference.

A side note:
What I do when designing the return/intake plumbing is I only use 90 deg elbows when it's ABSOLUTELY necessary.

When you have to use 90's, try not to use them in close proximity of eachother. 90's create backpressure which you probably already know and what's happening inside the 90 is turbulence. Now throw just a little bit of air inside this 90 along with the turbulent water and it'll cause a "swishing/swooshing" noise. Throw in a lot of air and you'll hear a "flush".

When I need a 90 bend in plumbing I usually backtrack the plumbing line to a point where a 45 or 2 can be used instead.

Hope this helps

[kfowler]

Have you conidered a Durso style drain? I made one for mine and it eliminate the noise.

[Gundo5000]

http://www.dursostandpipes.com/

[Rockitmakr]

Along with the Durso standpipes you also might need to use a siphon break. If your drain entering the sump is under water, you will need to put a "T" inline to release all trapped air in your drains. The size of your plumbing also plays an important role in how your drains work. If they are small, you will need to throttle back your pump that returns water to your main display.
Hope this helps.
:beer:

[werew]

CMI,
Can you tell for certain if the noise is coming from the return plumbing or the drain plumbing?

[cmiani2002]

Hi,
thanks alot for all the input....
Unfortunately the 2 elbow are necessary because the bulkhead is on the side wall. (see pic)

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/cmiani2002/bulkheads.jpg

I tried with durso style intake, i didnt really have much space forit, but that was't the problem, i come up with this design (see pic) and it is virtually noiseless.
The water intake is completely submerged and there is a vent hole on top of the lid.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/cmiani2002/overflow_intake.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l53/cmiani2002/overflow_intake3.jpg


I am positive the noise is coming from drain, i filled the tank starting from the sump, and it did not make any noise until the water began falling down the pipe in the ovderflow.

[cmiani2002]

SO, if saltwater is denser, will it help with the noise from the pump too???
I have a RIO3100, and it is awfuly noisy.
Anyone has a better recomendation for pumps? Less noisy??
Or maybe the noise will go away after use?

[RandyStacyE]

I would chop off that standpipe and use a Durso or a Stockmand Aquasilencer.

As far as your plumbing from the standpipe down the the sump ... I don't think I'd change a thing.

The Durso or Stockman is cheaper thand dirt to do and super simple. It may make a huge difference.

Some do prefer to use different hose material (down to the sump) for all kinds of reasons. If the hose is smooth on the interior then it would be quieter than hose that is ribbed inside. I use the cheapo ribbed hose and it's not too noisy for me ... that is why I would suggest changing out the standpipe for a Durso or the like.

The Durso is as easy as it gets ... the Stockman takes just a little more work. I've used them both and it really makes no difference.

[Rockitmakr]

Go with the stockman design. I use this design & it works very well, silent too.
:beer:

[cmiani2002]

I have no complains at all about the noise from the intake.

I actually tried the Durso design and it makes as much noise as the one i set up myself.

The problem comes from the bulkhead area....where the 2 elbows are.........

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

why are there elbow fittings at your bulkheads? durso's and stockman's are near dead silent even at full flow....

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

sorry, just saw pic. .... i have never seen that type of set-up before

...have you tried an extended "T", capped and drilled with an airline put in hole you drill in the cap....instead of the 90?

[RandyStacyE]

Excellent Idea!

That could work.

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

that's how i ran my old 120g that had dual 1" drains up top on back glass -- totally silent transfer

[finless]

I had the same problem. I put a gate valve on my drain and no noise. There's a thread somewhere on it.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k82/barkcollar/tank013.jpg

[RandyStacyE]

Dude ... you've got to take just one more shot of that skimmer ... the upper portion. Looks like a good DIY skimmer! Just one more pic please :)

[NanoReefWanabe]

i am having aproblem with noise in mine aswell...it too is in the garage undergoing leak test...and damn it is loud...

it is just the water splashing into the sump that is killing me...the drain stops about 1" above the surface of the water...should i extend it down under the water level?

i was kinda counting on the splashing to oxygenate my tank water as i am not using a skimmer yet..

i am using flexible vinyl hose and a durso, the bulkhead is 3/4" but the vinyl hose is 1" I.D. Just wondering if i should make the drain larger while the tank is in testing?

one other question where do you guys get those adjustable air valves on top of your durso's? i am having a heck of a time getting the air flow right..

a smidge too small a hole in the top and the bulkhead begins to siphon, and then vortex, wihich i am sure you guys know is incredibly loud..:(

slightly too big and tank overflows...:(

i have got the size pretty much nailed now but an adjustable valve would be the cat's a**...

[prugs]

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/29791Return_bubble_extractor__1_.jpg

[spider86]

Same thing here with the water splashing into the sump. I'm water testing in the basement and would like to quiet this thing down or my wife not be happy when I set it up. I have a calfo overflow into 2 3/4 bulkheads w/ T's and hole in cap. they flow to a 1inch drain to sump (all pvc). How do you quiet down the noise? Can someone explain the siphon break Rockitmakr referred to? Should the drain be under water or above?

[Rockitmakr]

Siphon break is nothing more than a " T " fitting with one end pointing up with a short extension so that air can escape the system. this way you can place the other end under water to quiet the splashing. Also, put a piece of foam into the open end to muffle the noise even more..

[NanoReefWanabe]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8910368#post8910368 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rockitmakr
Siphon break is nothing more than a " T " fitting with one end pointing up with a short extension so that air can escape the system. this way you can place the other end under water to quiet the splashing. Also, put a piece of foam into the open end to muffle the noise even more..

thank you...

wont the foam act as a nitrate trap tough?

[Rockitmakr]

No, the foam is on the end of the " T " that points up, out of the water.

:beer:

[spider86]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8911323#post8911323 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rockitmakr
No, the foam is on the end of the " T " that points up, out of the water.

:beer:

Thanks Rockitmakr. How do get the end of the T to point up? When I put the T on, the short end points sideways and the other end is down.

[RandyStacyE]

I think he means something like this:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l111/randystacye/DursoOverflow.jpg

[NanoReefWanabe]

i just learned from my LFS...when drilling the hole for your durso, at the top of the tee...to drill the hole through the side of the cap, about 1/4 inch or so up from the bottom edge of the cap...then mark the piece of pipe below the cap with a permenant marker in line with the hole...then take the cap off and lubricate it with vasoline and put it back on the pipe inline with your mark...now you can turn the cap to adjust the air flow in the standpipe and inturn the water level in the tank...

i just thought i would mention that as the picture above this post shows the hole in the top of the end caps...

[RandyStacyE]

That's like a DIY valve. That's a good idea.

[Rockitmakr]

Nail on the head mate!! Now, the "T" does not have to be right there behind your tank it can be in the sump too.
:beer:

[finless]

I have 1 pipe straight down with a gate valve and one pipe barely below the tank edge with out a valve for an emergency drain. Absolutly no noise no splashing. I even had to turn my pump up.Weird but works . No crazy plumbing either.

RandyStacyE , I got a alot of Ideas from your site.Thanks!
I made mine after a smaller Euro reef RS-80. I did the muffler too.
My whole tank is just about a DIY even the chillerSame concept as the Ice Probe.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k82/barkcollar/tank004.jpg

[AVALover5498]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8902084#post8902084 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by werew
When you first setup a tank, the plumbing will be a lot louder at first because the walls of the plumbing haven't built up a slime coat on them. The wall's surface is still "raw" per say, nowhere near as smooth as they'll be say.. 1-2 weeks after the setup has been up and running.

Another thing to note is you're not using saltwater, which is much denser than freshwater. Freshwater's acoustic properties are much "louder/sharper" than saltwater. I'm not saying running it with saltwater will TOTALLY silence the noise, but it should make a noticeable difference.

A side note:
What I do when designing the return/intake plumbing is I only use 90 deg elbows when it's ABSOLUTELY necessary.

When you have to use 90's, try not to use them in close proximity of eachother. 90's create backpressure which you probably already know and what's happening inside the 90 is turbulence. Now throw just a little bit of air inside this 90 along with the turbulent water and it'll cause a "swishing/swooshing" noise. Throw in a lot of air and you'll hear a "flush".

When I need a 90 bend in plumbing I usually backtrack the plumbing line to a point where a 45 or 2 can be used instead.

Hope this helps

Not to hijack but would to many elbows on the return make it loud? I have five on my return, plumbed through a SCWD. What do you think? I havn't had it running yet. This is a new setup so I think I'm going to freshwater test it, before i get it up and running.



-Chris-

[cashman95]

I had the same problem with the noise of the water falling over the overflow grates in my tank. I have 1 corner overflow that sucks in from the bottom as well as the top, and the black plastic overflow has a removable cover so you can clean the grates and such, anyways the grates at the top had a lip that lauched water over into the overflow area and made the water falling loud! I took the part of my overflow that can be removed and went to the garage for some belt sanding action!!! Now no more lip and hardly any sound! If anyone is interested I couls take a picture of my mod. Very simple but effective!

[cashman95]

Oh and I give FINLESS greif about all his DIY mods, but so far everything he has made has really impressed me! His skimmer works pretty dang well....probably about as good as my ASM g-2x.
He's my Boss so I can give him heck right?!????

Keep up the good work Finless!!!!

[NanoReefWanabe]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8914117#post8914117 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AVALover5498
Not to hijack but would to many elbows on the return make it loud? I have five on my return, plumbed through a SCWD. What do you think? I havn't had it running yet. This is a new setup so I think I'm going to freshwater test it, before i get it up and running.



-Chris-
i have two 45's pre to get out of the sump and up the back side of the stand into my SQWD and then 4 90's and 2 more 45's post SQWD and i dont have any noise issues with the return..

i unfortunatley ran my overflow in the center of my tank so i had to put my SQWD at the bottom of the tank, so it didnt interfer with the durso; from the SQWD the plubming goes to the sides of the tank then run two 90s up the back edges of the tank then two more 90 to get over the top then the two 45's to get the plumbing in the display..

as for fresh water test it is a very good idea...that is the point i am at..i just tested everything, found the stuff that i didnt like and changed it...LOL now i have to wait for the silicone to cure again so i can test for one last time...everything worked perfectly before but i was uncomfy with some of it..

i am not sure how you connected to your SQWD on the inlet side but i am having a hard time getting the hose clamps tight enough, as there is a bottle neck there (at the SQWD) which seems to build up a little back pressure on the hose clamp...