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View Full Version : PLEASE READ! seriously i need an honest opinon, not a biased etc. sry for being rude!


dan10342
01/06/2007, 06:22 PM
ok here's the deal. im going to list all of my tank inhabitants, water params. lighting, filtration etc. this topic, before i go into the details, is about clams.

ok the water params.
sg. 1.025
ammonia/nitrite: 0 ppm
nitrate: .02 ppm (about)
ph. 8.3 (is that too low?)
temp. 78-80 (fluctuates between winter and summer)
uh u need any others.. i just posted basic params... ?

lighting:
3 x 110 watt vho
110 x actinic blue
220 x 50/50 (12000k??)
(made by uri)


filtration
coralife super skimmer
going to put a canaster filter hooked up to sump tank (for carbon)

spong **** in overflow box... i dont think that counts though!


current tank inhabitants

1 yellow tang
1 royal gramma
1 coral banded shrimp
blue leged hermits
2 turbo snails
many stomatella snails
various pods
feather dusters (must be thousands)
sponges (idk species)


xenia coral (grows like mad)
gsp (grows like xenia)
mushrooms

cabbage coral
kenya trees (grows crazy)

torch coral

zoanthids (got attacked by aipasia... then i killed aiptasia w/ joes juice... or seemed to have killed them. do butterfly (copperband ) or peppermint shrimp pick at clams?

1 deresa clam on bottom of tank (in sand... attached to the bottom glass) the clam has evident growth, white as opposed to older coralline covered shell) has proly more than doubled in size (3 to 6 inches in about 7 months)

the question is can i put in a more colorful clam ( t. maxima or t. squamosa) in if i have them high in the rockwork? (a total of 7 inches from vho lights)

i right now, do not want to do any more plumbing, so i do not want a chiller. and my parents electrical bill is already hurting as it is. so i cannot go metal halide. i was thinking t-5s but that would mean all the money spent on vho endcaps and bulbs went to waste. (not cheap when there are 3 bulbs)

so could i possibly keep a maxima (blue or goldish) or a very intensly colored "squamy"??

i posted the thing about no biased ****... because of those select few indiviuals who think metal halide are the only lights out there...

thank you for your help

dan10342
01/06/2007, 06:24 PM
sry.. this is the real thread... i dont know why it double posted.

jdieck
01/06/2007, 06:28 PM
Unfortunately Derassas require lot less lighting so it is difficult to judge based on it if other clams might be succesful.
I have read of some surviving under VHO for some time but success is not assure, I would say there might be a 50% or less chance of they making it.

dan10342
01/06/2007, 06:30 PM
perhaps if i did biweekly feedings of phyto

jdieck
01/06/2007, 06:36 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8914344#post8914344 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jjjo
perhaps if i did biweekly feedings of phyto
Might help but depending on your tank you need good skimming as the pytho will increase your input of phosphates and nutrients so you need a good skimmer to keep them in check.

2crazyreefers
01/06/2007, 06:37 PM
You might want to ask this on the clam forum. I am sure most will say no and that is MHO as well. I only know of 2 feerers who kept these under PC with success, halide is what is best for them.

Craig Lambert
01/06/2007, 06:49 PM
What size tank is this? I have 630 watts of vho over a 75G and have been told (on the clam forum) I could keep a Squamosa, or Derasa but NOT a Maxima. You should post this on the Clam forum. On a side note you didn't list your Alkalinity, which is one of the most important parameters.

dan10342
01/06/2007, 07:59 PM
alk is 11 dkh (is that bad??)
havnt tested calc in a while... lfs is a hual and gas is expensive... ill get a calc test kit soon though (yea im a noob)

tank is 55 gallons

dan10342
01/06/2007, 08:04 PM
isnt 11 dkh a little bit on the high side?? that would mean calc is a low?? im really confused

Craig Lambert
01/06/2007, 09:43 PM
Your Alk level is at the highest end of the acceptable range (7-11 dKH), but that may be an indication that your calcium is low unless you are dosing pretty heavily. You should pick up some Salifert test kits. They are accurate, and easy to use.

As far as your lighting over a 55G, I would agree with others that clams are a longshot at best under your lighting. The thing about clams is that they can look healthy for as long as 9 months, and then one day they turn on a dime because they have been slowly starved to death as the lack of light does not allow them to produce their own food. 330 watts vho over a 55G is a rather "low light" tank. Most people running vho have a 4 bulb 440 watt setup, and even that is on the low side for what you would like to try.

dan10342
01/07/2007, 01:53 PM
alright. should i get rid of my 6 inch deresa too and just stick with softie/lps corals?

SDguy
01/07/2007, 02:24 PM
I'm just dying to know what profinity can be used with the word "sponge ****" and "biased ****" :D

dan10342
01/07/2007, 06:17 PM
<font size="1" color="#0000FF">profanity removed</font>

There is no need to make end runs around the profanity filters :rolleyes:

dan10342
01/07/2007, 06:18 PM
moderators... sry for the language. just wanted to show the guy above what i meant.. u know word filters arent that effective. u might want to look into a more effective word filter

dan10342
01/07/2007, 06:20 PM
anyway back to the topic. should i just sell the clam back to the lfs (they said if it got bigger they would buy it

Watch Yo Wrasse
01/07/2007, 06:23 PM
Deleted

Watch Yo Wrasse
01/07/2007, 06:24 PM
Deleted.

dan10342
01/07/2007, 06:26 PM
hey now.. no need for that language. the moderators might get mad

Watch Yo Wrasse
01/07/2007, 06:27 PM
♠♣☻♂♀♥♦

Watch Yo Wrasse
01/07/2007, 06:28 PM
I'm sorry.

John Q Reefer
01/07/2007, 06:32 PM
*gasp*

SDguy
01/07/2007, 06:54 PM
Yikes! I thought it was some filter malfunction....I didn't think people actually write like that :rolleyes:

dan10342
01/07/2007, 07:25 PM
no it is no filter malfunction

billsreef
01/07/2007, 08:33 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8921768#post8921768 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jjjo
hey now.. no need for that language. the moderators might get mad

:wavehand:

The Saltwater Kid
01/08/2007, 10:23 AM
I had a Derasa clam under 130w of PC lighting and he was happey and healthy (and he was on the bottom of my tank in the sand bed). I think you should definitely be able to have a Derasa and most likely a Squamosa but would stay away from the other species unless you get more lighting.

RichConley
01/08/2007, 10:34 AM
4x110w on a 55 would be fine for any of the clams. You'd just need to run some real bulbs, not all actinics. The people on the clam forum are just like the people on the anemone forum: They have this mistaken belief that their animals are super difficult.


If I can keep a crocea 22" down on the sand under a 14K 250w bulb, you certainly can keep one 12" down with VHOs. You just need more bulbs... or you can switch to T5s.

cristhiam
01/08/2007, 10:38 AM
My lightning is 4 40Ws 6500K bulbs from HD and 2 110W URI actinics, I run all the lights with 2 IceCaps 660s. I've had my clams for over two years crocea and a max (the max was about 1.5" ich really tiny) been the oldest, and I have a drerasa and a gigas getting close to the 2 year mark (it's hard to keep track now). Here is a thread on my system. IMO I think is the K on the bulbs 6500K that helps. The 125G it's been setup for 11 months now but most of the LR and corals are from my old 55 that was run with 3 40Ws and 1 110 URI actinic light. So far so good, just about a week ago I removed one of the 40W and replace with another 110W actinic. It can be done if carefully planned, not that I planned everything :)
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=998825

Debbie64
01/08/2007, 10:42 AM
My tender ears!

I have a crocea clam under just 266w of T5 lighting in my 90. I admit to not knowing at all how T5s compare to VHO - I know T5s concentrate the light really well due to the reflectors, but as far as MH being the only way to go if you want a clam, I don't know that that's true. MH lighting is aesthetically really beautiful, but I can't afford to buy them or run them.

My clam's up rather high in the rock work, growing. I've had him since April last year and he looks pretty good to me. :D

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/564/91538croceatopdown.jpg

TWallace
01/08/2007, 11:35 AM
I keep 3 croceas and a derasa in a 55g with 216w of T5 lighting (half actinic, half daylight). One of the croceas has started bleaching, the other 2 look fine. I bought all 3 croceas from ClamsDirect.com in August 2006. All 4 clams show new growth on the edge of the shells. I agree with Rich. If you go to the Clams forum here, they'll probably all tell you that MH is required.

SDguy
01/08/2007, 11:48 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8926637#post8926637 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
The people on the clam forum are just like the people on the anemone forum: They have this mistaken belief that their animals are super difficult.


:lol:

Craig Lambert
01/08/2007, 08:32 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8926637#post8926637 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
4x110w on a 55 would be fine for any of the clams. You'd just need to run some real bulbs, not all actinics. The people on the clam forum are just like the people on the anemone forum: They have this mistaken belief that their animals are super difficult.


If I can keep a crocea 22" down on the sand under a 14K 250w bulb, you certainly can keep one 12" down with VHOs. You just need more bulbs... or you can switch to T5s.

Rich,

He asked about keeping a clam under HIS lighting configuration. He doesn't have 440 watts. It's a 3 bulb setup.

Your remark about the clam forum sounds like sour grapes to me. I saw how they responded to your remark over there. This is a forum...ie open for debate. The fact that they disagree with you is no reason to slam them.