Building A New Stand & Canopy

[pool keeper]

Start of a new 120gallon closed loop, refugium, TerminatorII skimmer, 800W Metal Halides & Power Compacts. I started this this morning........Extra side compartment for electrical access, rear compartment is for closed loop plumbing. Will include another sump depending on how much room is left.



http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1060061.jpg


http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1060060.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1060061.jpg

[newman330]

Hi Poolkeeper, very interested in your stand design. Is this for a 48" x 24" tank footprint? I am doing my best not to overdesign a stand for my 60" x 24" tank.

[pool keeper]

Hey Newman

Yes, the 120 is 48 1/2 X 24 1/2, The overall dimensions for that stand is 60 3/4 X 30 3/4 X 36H. I'll have have an access door on top of side compartment for easy access to all electric switches.

If you have any additional questions just ask. I'm a professional handy man...HAHA!

[newman330]

Thanks Poolkeeper,

Like I said I am struggling to make sure I dont overdo the design. I have been scouring the internet looking at various designs plus talking to alot of local resources. Started at 4x4 frame and have reduced to 2x4 frame. The question I have is: How many vertical supports I need in the frame. Originally considering 8 - 2x4's. After looking at yours, I am thinking 6 would be more than enough.

Not a structural engineer (definitely not). If I end up on the conservative side - say 30-40% over the top... no problem

[pool keeper]

If you use a simple lap joint on your square frame 2X4's you can use 1X6's (IE) 2 in each corner for your uprights. You may also
use 1-1X6 in the center rear, but this blocks easy access for sumps etc.
My stand will have a totally removable front panel instead of doors for 100% access. I think this makes everything so much easier. I'll post pictures as I go along.

[newman330]

Are you suggesting that i can also avoid using a central support 2x4 in front and back if I use the lap joint and 1x6's in a fashion similar to what you are doing? I like the idea of not using cabinet doors. I (and my wife) want a very clean look... very simple.

I live in Asia and was out for lunch earlier today and saw some aquarium stands built for 36" aquarium using 2x2 supports. When I enquired with the shop owner about building a stand for a 60" aquarium, he stated that he would probably use 2x3's but not necessarily central supports (just 4 corners) His stands were very simple, made from a very solid wood and utilized lap joints.

Keep posting the photos as you progress. I look forward to learning from your experience

[scrager]

man, i wouldn't trust a tank on that stand. the back left corner of the tank is unsupported. you've got the tank directly on a support on the front right, close to a support in the back right, in the middle of your front piece on the front left, and just hanging out on nails in the back left. think about it...you're going to be warping wood and bending nails in no time unless you put atleast a 2x4 under that corner.

[pool keeper]

Scrager.....I plan on putting a vertical on the left rear corner for support, but I'm leaving that for last. I have not yet decided how to arrange everything I want to fit in this stand. (IE) there is more than one way to support that left rear corner.
I understand your concern though......I'll be posting photos until the project is complete.

[pool keeper]

This is how far I got today........

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P10600650.jpg


http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1060067.jpg


http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1060066.jpg

[pool keeper]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8920692#post8920692 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by poolkeeper
Scrager.....I plan on putting a vertical on the left rear corner for support, but I'm leaving that for last. I have not yet decided how to arrange everything I want to fit in this stand. (IE) there is more than one way to support that left rear corner.
I understand your concern though......I'll be posting photos until the project is complete.

**************************************************

I wanted to add:

All 2X4 framing on this stand is screwed together with 3 1/2" long stainless steel & 2 1/2" stainless steel screws where appropriate.
The only nails used were for attaching the 3/4" cabinet grade birch plywood and trim.
I am considering using 1/4" thick angle iron across the rear tank support bar the whole length of the stand. Bolted end to end.

[pool keeper]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8915281#post8915281 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by newman330
Thanks Poolkeeper,

Like I said I am struggling to make sure I dont overdo the design. I have been scouring the internet looking at various designs plus talking to alot of local resources. Started at 4x4 frame and have reduced to 2x4 frame. The question I have is: How many vertical supports I need in the frame. Originally considering 8 - 2x4's. After looking at yours, I am thinking 6 would be more than enough.

Not a structural engineer (definitely not). If I end up on the conservative side - say 30-40% over the top... no problem


If you look at the front view of what I've accomplised from day two, my idea of a one piece lift off panel got voted down by my wife. We've agreed to do 2 large doors instead.

You win some ya lose some!
:p

[newman330]

Looking good poolkeeper!

I am struggling with the wife right now as well. She likes furniture... according to her aquariums cannot be considered furniture.

Looking forward to seeing the final product

[cstires]

I wouldn't trust the setup myself!!! All of the weight of the tank is going to be resting on your outer 2x4 frame, and that frame is not supported very well at all!

Screws are good, but there not good for sheering, and your going to be putting a lot of pressure on them!

I overbuilt my stand, but it's good to have the piece of mind that nothing is going to happen!

I would at the minimum put some 2x4 bracing under the entire frame.

I would hate to see you build a beautiful stand and have it collapse and ruin your house!!!

[rodgod20]

I second that....I am doing the same exact thing, look for my thread soon. I put an extra 2x6 under the 2x4 for extra support. I really wouldn't trust that.

The outside looks nice btw. I am doing anything fancy on mine.

Give me a bit and i'll see about getting some picks up of mine.

[8BALL_99]

Most stands are way over built.. You dont need 2x6s to support a 120...That said this stand does have some problems.. The weight of the tank needs to be supported with Braces going straight down to the floor. If your looking at this stand from the front. Only the front corners look to be supported. The others are held up with Screws..That will never hold.. Looking at the stand. The left side and back two corners need supports going to the floor. Not a big deal.. Just needs a few braces..

[cstires]

Is there such thing as being over built??? Not in my opinion... I think the majority of stands are not built well enough, considering the amount of money you have invested in it, and the potential disaster that could be caused from a failure!!!

[8BALL_99]

Over built isn't really a problem if your lucky enough to have a equipment room like I do ;).. But most people dont.. So they tend to need every inch of space in their stand.. Its tuff to make room for Sump/Refuge,Skimmer,, CA reactor,, Kalk reactor,Toppoff container and maybe ozone or even UV.. Not to mention room for Electrical lines any closed loop pumps.

Factory stands are built with 3/4 plywood with 1x4 or 1x3s supporting the corners and center supports on longer spans.. They warrenty the tanks on these stands and the hold the weight NP.. If you ever look at them though all the weight is supported all the way to the floor.. NO sheer joints Most factory stand are held with brad nails.. Don't get me wrong I think they are a little under built and some even have MDF in them :eek: But a 2x4 Frame built correctly can handle most any tank NP...

[cstires]

I agree! It definitely takes up more room. I'm lucky enough to have a garage on the same wall as the aquarium. It's like my big fish room!!! :)

[pool keeper]

I want to say thanks to all for your input on this stand. As you can see I've added some more support which hopefully will take care of the left rear section of the stand.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1080079.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1080080.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1090081.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1080077.jpghttp://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1080078.jpg

[cstires]

Aren't you worried that your going to lose a lot of space under the stand with the way that you have that setup?

[pool keeper]

Thanks to all of you for your input. As you can see by today's pics I've added more support to the entire rear of the stand.
Here are todays pics:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1080079.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1080080.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1090081.jpg

[rodgod20]

better....that isn't going anywhere

[pool keeper]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8939057#post8939057 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cstires
Aren't you worried that your going to lose a lot of space under the stand with the way that you have that setup?

Not at all. My refugium is 39"L X 14"W and it fits in between what I've added today. I actually could fit 2 of them if I need to.
One as a refugium one as an extra sump.

[cstires]

Cool, that's what I would do if you can!!!

It looks great by the way!

[pool keeper]

Todays Progress.....was minimal. One door down, one to go.
Just have to prep, sand and get ready for stain. Next project is the canopy!


http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1090001.jpg

[NoCarrier]

8Ball - do you think it's possible to make a 5' stand out of 2x4s with only the four corner vertical supports?

[cstires]

I don't see why not. As long as you support the outside perimeter well, you won't have any problems.

[cstires]

This is how I did mine, but I used a lot more support just for insurance!!!

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r243/cstires/DSC02202.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r243/cstires/DSC02201.jpg

[NoCarrier]

I like your stand. Did you use 4x4s up front, or are those dual 2x4s? And how many cross-braces did you use on your top frame?

[cstires]

It's built out of 2x4's, there's only two top braces, which weren't needed, I added them because I thought I was going to screw down the plywod top, but decided to put foam underneath instead.

[NoCarrier]

Gotcha. Do you have any more pics of the stand construction?

[cstires]

I do, send me a pm so I don't forget. I don't want to take away from this gentlemans thread.

[8BALL_99]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8947477#post8947477 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NoCarrier
8Ball - do you think it's possible to make a 5' stand out of 2x4s with only the four corner vertical supports?

Sure. I guess it would depend a little on what size the tank is. But I'm guessing around 150 gallon. Shouldn't be problem. With no center brace I would use two 2x4s for the horizontal beam though. A center brace in the back would also help alot if it doesn't get in the way of anything..

[NoCarrier]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8951250#post8951250 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 8BALL_99
Sure. I guess it would depend a little on what size the tank is. But I'm guessing around 150 gallon. Shouldn't be problem. With no center brace I would use two 2x4s for the horizontal beam though. A center brace in the back would also help alot if it doesn't get in the way of anything..
Actually it's only 75 gallons... really narrow tank. Thanks for the info.

[Bergovoy]

The quality looks good, and some of the structural points are being covered by others, but I wanted to add the following.

I understand you want to run some fothe closed loop plumbing behind teh tank down through that access, but, BUT, keep in mind that the bulkhead design has teh body of the bulkhead sticks out past the tank glass by about 2 inches minimum, along with the dimensions of the pvc 90 and the diameter of the pipe itself, that you would use, makes the minimium space behind the tank for pumbing about 6-8 inches.

Then keep in mind that some pipe might need to cross or go over another pipe, so just keep adding inches for space and access behind the tank.

I tried to do teh same thing and failed. My plumbing still comes out the back ofhte stand between teh stand and tehw wall, plus the extra 5 inches I built into the tank platform, makes it almost a foot gap between teh tank and the wall behind.

I will have to get creative with some plants to cover that area up...

Good luck

Bill

[8BALL_99]

FWIW you can cut some off the bulkheads.. You only need about an inch to get a good glue joint.. Also if use Street PVC 90s they take up about half the space of standard 90s. They cost a few cents more but well worth the room they save..

[Bergovoy]

I had difficutly finding street ninetys in 1-1/2" and yes you can trim teh bulk head, But I was not in the mood to re-engineer what they think was necessary, for my closed loop at 2600 gph. Bad enough I had problems with standard 1" nineties blowing out on me...



That is a lot of pressure and a lot of water.

I ahve trimmed fittings but on lower pressure suction line stuff.

Bill

[pool keeper]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8952802#post8952802 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bergovoy
The quality looks good, and some of the structural points are being covered by others, but I wanted to add the following.

I understand you want to run some fothe closed loop plumbing behind teh tank down through that access, but, BUT, keep in mind that the bulkhead design has teh body of the bulkhead sticks out past the tank glass by about 2 inches minimum, along with the dimensions of the pvc 90 and the diameter of the pipe itself, that you would use, makes the minimium space behind the tank for pumbing about 6-8 inches.

Then keep in mind that some pipe might need to cross or go over another pipe, so just keep adding inches for space and access behind the tank.

I tried to do teh same thing and failed. My plumbing still comes out the back ofhte stand between teh stand and tehw wall, plus the extra 5 inches I built into the tank platform, makes it almost a foot gap between teh tank and the wall behind.

I will have to get creative with some plants to cover that area up...

Good luck

Bill


Bill,
I've discussed this issue with my local fish store owner, and supplier of the loop equipment. We are going to cut the bulk heads to the shortest length possible and we're going to use flexible PVC.

You bring up some very good points. Hopefully all will work out because my pump and most of the valves will be on the other side of the wall (which is the garage wall -- this is where anything with heat like ballasts, pumps, etc is kept) I believe I have enough room for a bulkhead and a shut off valve. I'll keep you posted.

Regards,
Bill (that's my name too!)

[Bergovoy]

Well, maybe my scerwup will prevent someone elses screwup.

I had it all planned! But I did not take into consideration the pipes.

I will be placing a bunch of stuff through the wall as well, i.e the chiller, the calc reactor, maybe even the sump!

Bill

[pool keeper]

Finally finished the stand. Except for the top access door. Want to place the tank before I size the door. Added some drawers for storage. Framed the canopy, I hope to finish that shortly. Here are the most recent pics, and I included a few of the new tenants.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1120004.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1120003.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1120007.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1120008.jpg

[8BALL_99]

looks great!!

[pool keeper]

Canopy is built and stained. Third and final coat of poly on the stand and I'm happy with the sheen on it. My new tank will be drilled tomorrow, hopefully I'll have it back tomorrow evening and then I can start the plumbing.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1140004.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1140003.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1140002.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1140001.jpg

[swjim]

Everything looks great! The only minor detail that I would consider would be to put a small piece of moulding along the sides of the canopy to maintain the clean look you have with the rest of the stand and canopy.

Once again, great job!

Jim

[swjim]

Just to clarify, I meant to say "top sides".

[NoCarrier]

Your canopy is beautiful. What kind of wood did you use? Can you outline your finishing (sand/stain etc.) process?

[sasscuba]

Looks good! Feels good to see all the work you put it doesn't it? Here is mine, finished today.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/sasscuba/100_1960.jpg

[pool keeper]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8988813#post8988813 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NoCarrier
Your canopy is beautiful. What kind of wood did you use? Can you outline your finishing (sand/stain etc.) process?


NoCarrier-- I had to use birch plywood (because I am sick to death of oak), you cannot get birch trim molding so I had to use maple, but used a prestain conditioner to make the stain look the same on the two different kinds of wood. I used Minwax Cherry stain, satin finish poly and now here is where the work comes in.

It was sanded with 220 grit after the 1st coat, the second coat was then sanded with 500 grit, the 3rd coat was done with steel wool to get a real furniture kind of look. It turned out okay and I'm happy. The 1X4 pieces on top of the canopy are actually pine
(but don't tell anyone)....I got away with it. It looks the same and who really sees up there anyway????

I'm posting the final pictures in the next thread.

My tank is still not drilled, I'm getting impatient with my supplier. Hopefully it will be drilled tomorrow. At a stand still until I get my tank back.

Thanks for all your input.

Regards,
Bill

[pool keeper]

Thank God all the woodworking is done. Now I'm ready to be a plumber.......Here are the final pics of the stand and canopy.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1150001.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1150002.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q225/hillarysux/P1150004.jpg

[pool keeper]

Sassuba,

Wow that's beautiful, you have some skills there!
Very nice job. :-)

I can appreciate it since I know now first hand what is involved. It's a lot of work.

I am curious though, what are you keeping in the bottom tank?
I like the concept. Do you have an equipment room?

Regards,
Bill

[pool keeper]

Sassuba,

Wow that's beautiful, you have some skills there!
Very nice job. :-)

I can appreciate it since I know now first hand what is involved. It's a lot of work.

I am curious though, what are you keeping in the bottom tank?
I like the concept. Do you have an equipment room?

Regards,
Bill

[NoCarrier]

Bill -

Thanks for all the details. Did you just apply the minwax with a brush? And was the steel wool your very last touch, or did you do one more coat after that?

[pool keeper]

I did it with a brush, let it set for approx. 15-20 minutes then wiped it with a rag to get the shade I wanted. I did use one coat after the steel wool. After it dries for a couple of weeks I'll give it a coat of hand wax by Minwax. That's it!

Regards,
Bill

[NoCarrier]

Got it. Thanks Bill!

-John