New House with custom fish room - 180 in-wall

[TTrout]

Hello everyone, I have been watching most of your threads for some time now and impressed with all of the great ideas shown here. I have had everything from a 10gal to a 75gal reef tank. So, my wife and I have moved recently to Indiana and are building a new house. The house was custom engineered to include a fish room that will house a 180 gallon aquarium.

Here are a few photos of the fish room being constructed.

http://www.thecadesusa.com/travis/images/IMG_5164.jpg

http://www.thecadesusa.com/travis/images/Tank whole - In Fish room.bmp

http://www.thecadesusa.com/travis/images/Tank Whole - In Great Room.bmp

We are closing on the house February 14th 2007, in the mean time I will have plenty of questions and some updates of the fish room as they come.

[jmccown]

You might add more plug ins up near the top of the tank opening for your lights, etc. So you don't have cords running everywhere. Other than that, looks like a good start.

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9022697#post9022697 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmccown
You might add more plug ins up near the top of the tank opening for your lights, etc. So you don't have cords running everywhere. Other than that, looks like a good start.
jmccown: Thank you for your comments :)

I actually have on the other side of the room two dedicated 20 amp circuits that will be used for most of the lights and pumps. I am thinking of running pvc conduit to a custom power panel similar to what has been seen on this site. There are also the normal outlets at floor level around the room that can be used for smaller powered items.

Also, I forgot to mention that the room is pre-plumbed for a utility sink. I will tap in to this for RO/DI, cleaning, water changes.

[crescent1]

great job, more pics pls.

[BigReef]

Welcome to Indiana!
We have a great reef club located here in Central Indiana. Check us out on indmas.org. Dues are only $20 per year. The frag swaps are great, the meetings informative and the people are some of the best!

Looks good so far! Just a couple of suggestions.

I would make sure you take into account the humidity that your tank room will have. I would have them install duct work so you can pull some of the humidity out of the room. This is usually done with some type of fan, similar to the ones installed in bathrooms. It can be tied to a controller to turn on and off when the humidity gets to a set point.

I would also have a dedicated water source in the room to hook your ro/di to. Makes things a whole lot easier when it's water change time.

That leads me to my 3rd suggestion. It might be too late, but I would install some type of floor drain. It's usually not a matter of "if" something will flood, but "when"!

Lastly, like someone allready said. Make sure you have plenty of outlets!

Looking forward to meeting you at one of our swaps.

Tim

[TTrout]

Thanks Tim, I will definately check out the website.

The humidity is one of the questions that I had. I was thinking of puting some type of fan like you mentioned. However, I didn't want to have to turn it on and off manually. Can you point me in the direction of how something like that can be automated?

It is a bit late for a floor drain, however I do have a water and a drain for a utility sink pre-plumbed in to the house. I am wanting to plumb the sump very similarly to Oregonreef's setup just scaled down considerably! :D His setup has an overflow that will, in an emergancy, will drain the water to a storm drain.

Here is a photo of the pre-plumbed utility sink. This will also be used for the RO/DI hookup.

http://www.thecadesusa.com/travis/images/IMG_5150.jpg

[BigReef]

Yeah, I figured it was too late for a floor drain! Might want to consider sealing the floor and baseboards so water won't wic up the drywall when it leaks.

I've seen people here on the boards use this to control the fans.
Do some research, there's tons of options when it comes to humidity control.

http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/cap-air1-temperature-humidity-control-p-361.html

Tim

[toastman]

Looks great, but you really should have used green board in your fish room, it is more moisture resistant than regular drywall, and you will have alot of humidity in that room, I would add an exhaust fan right out the side wall of your house to help with the humidity. I know it is probably too late in your mind to change to green board, but its a good idea, you wont regret the money spent to change it now, instead of dealing with alot of mold later on.....just my opinion

[TTrout]

I've seen people here on the boards use this to control the fans.
Do some research, there's tons of options when it comes to humidity control.

http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/cap-air1-temperature-humidity-control-p-361.html

Tim [/B]

Thanks, I'll take a look :)

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9033391#post9033391 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by toastman
[B]Looks great, but you really should have used green board in your fish room, it is more moisture resistant than regular drywall, and you will have alot of humidity in that room.
Unfortunately, the builder will only do so much. I completely agree that the walls should be either the green or concrete board instead of drywall. So, I will be ripping out the drywall on at least the wall that the tank will be on if not all of them. Considering the minimal cost, I probably will do all the walls.

Thanks,

[sullyfish]

Looks great so far...for your Eq. room walls you might consider a good quality primer/sealer ( Kilz ) to go over your existing sheetrock, or they have water proof paneling that is pretty cheap that screws into existing sheetrock. Just an alternative to ripping out the sheetrock. However, If you do rip out the rock, be sure and put plenty of sound baffling insulation / cork panels in the walls if not there already.

keep the pics coming. I am working on a room similiar and will folow this thread with interest. Looks great so far

[TTrout]

Sullyfish: Thanks. That is a good idea with the kilz primer. I will keep that in mind. I may still use that over the green board. I did go in before they put the drywall up and put in insulation. I was hoping that I could swing my builder in to putting some green board in there, but he wouldn't go for it. Oh well.

[Goldleaf Reef]

Tha'ts kind of odd about the green Board, you could have bought the sheets from the local hardware supply and dropped them off at the house and had the drywallers install. Would have not cost the builder a single penny extra and it installs and finishes just like regular drywall. Plus they have to put it in the bathroom so I know the installers could handle it. It is however a pain to prime paint .

I would go with a coat of Kiltz, and the paneling mentioned before. I also saw tile board at lowes the other day that probably would work. And it looks nice. This It would save you the mess of ripping out drywall and having to reinstall Green board. Once the dust from the drywall mud get's to floating in the air you will regret ripping out the drywall.

my 2 pesos'

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9062355#post9062355 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Goldleaf Reef
Tha'ts kind of odd about the green Board, you could have bought the sheets from the local hardware supply and dropped them off at the house and had the drywallers install. Would have not cost the builder a single penny extra and it installs and finishes just like regular drywall. Plus they have to put it in the bathroom so I know the installers could handle it. It is however a pain to prime paint .

I would go with a coat of Kiltz, and the paneling mentioned before. I also saw tile board at lowes the other day that probably would work. And it looks nice. This It would save you the mess of ripping out drywall and having to reinstall Green board. Once the dust from the drywall mud get's to floating in the air you will regret ripping out the drywall.

my 2 pesos'

It's not too big of a deal to pull out and put GB back in. So, at this point I am not too worried about that, especially since I close in less than 3 weeks. :D

[TTrout]

Now on to the fun stuff! Planning the setup of the equipment/fish room. I have a basic idea of how I want to setup the room as far as the tank, but that is about it. Here is a drawing of what I am currently thinking of.

http://www.thecadesusa.com/travis/images/fishroom-raleigh.jpg

Will the external overflow work ok on just the one side as illustrated? I do plan on doing a closed loop as well. I think I have decided that I would like to incorporate a OM 4 way in the CL, however my goal is to have high flow for SPS. So, my question would be what would be the best placement for this type of setup for the drain and returns of the closed loop. I have also been toying with the idea of trying to replicate something that Steve Weast has done in his tank with the racks and having Loc-line as the returns from the rack. Has anyone else tried doing this? One other thing I would like to mention is that I want to build this tank with no viewable electronics, plumbing, or man-made stuff.

Feel free to download this photo and mark it up if you want to demonstrate any ideas.

[20 20]

In the pic of the actual wall above, it looks like you've got a lot more room on the right side of the tank (looking from behind the tank) you could be using for the fish room. What are you going to be doing with that space?

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9069984#post9069984 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 20 20
In the pic of the actual wall above, it looks like you've got a lot more room on the right side of the tank (looking from behind the tank) you could be using for the fish room. What are you going to be doing with that space?
First, just so everyone knows (which may be obvious) is that is looking down on the fish room. So, if I understand the question, it's our first floor bathroom.

I just updated, the photo. You may need to refresh your browser to see the new "labeled" pic.

[20 20]

Ah, I get it now, need that bathroom! :)

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9071907#post9071907 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 20 20
Ah, I get it now, need that bathroom! :)
Although, I'm trying to convince the other half that we need a "port hole" in that wall between the toilet and the aquarium! :D But I think I am losing that battle...:rolleyes:

[Goldleaf Reef]

Looks Great.. Quite Jealous to be exact..

[rmanecke]

Oh man, you NEED a porthole! Good luck on the battle for that though!

Looks great. Keep the pics coming!

[BigReef]

Hi Travis
I would have put the sink in the opposite corner and used the left end of the tank to put in a nice big sump. The overflow would drain straight down into the sump or your skimmer. Putting all your equipment under the tank is pointless when you have that much room.

Tim

[EBR4]

I vote for the port hole as well. Be sure to put it at eye level when sitting too. As a compromise, perhaps allow some curtains.
Good luck.
Matt

[20 20]

Port hole, eh?


So, you can see out...


Can the fish see in? That might be a concern, all the stress and such it would cause the fish...:p

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9082827#post9082827 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigReef
Hi Travis
I would have put the sink in the opposite corner and used the left end of the tank to put in a nice big sump. The overflow would drain straight down into the sump or your skimmer. Putting all your equipment under the tank is pointless when you have that much room.

Tim
That is very interesting. I have been trying to figure out how to utilize the other side. I may be able to still put the sink in that other corner and just route the plumbing to it.

Looking at some other threads, including Hops rebirth thread, I have some new ideas on how to setup the room. I will try to create it on the Google sketchup program and upload it here sometime this weekend.

My question right now is, will one closed loop with a OM 4 way powered by a dart and the sumps return powered by a snapper/dart be enough flow for a 180 with SPS corals?

Thank you,

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9085016#post9085016 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 20 20
... Can the fish see in? That might be a concern, all the stress and such it would cause the fish...:p
:lol: I didn't think of that! That definately may cause high stress levels, especially after a night of eating Indian food! :eek1:

[snowlancer2720]

so, hows this going, looking for an update!

[artistreefer]

Cant wait to see it finished. Currently planning a 180 build myself

[TandN]

looks swesome but listen word of advice put a window or 2 in the fish room works better then anything else with humidity and alot cheaper

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9300180#post9300180 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by snowlancer2720
so, hows this going, looking for an update!
Sorry, for the lack in updates. We just moved in to the house, so we are currently busy getting everything unpacked and situated.

In the mean time I am currently trying to get some quotes for the tank. I live in central Indiana, so if anyone has some recommendations, that would be great.

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9302044#post9302044 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tanya72806
looks swesome but listen word of advice put a window or 2 in the fish room works better then anything else with humidity and alot cheaper
No windows in the fish room, however I am planning to vent the room with a ceiling fan (like in bathrooms) and some sort of dehumidifier sensor(?) to trigger it. Although, haven't quite figured that part out yet.

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9301248#post9301248 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by artistreefer
Cant wait to see it finished. Currently planning a 180 build myself
Me too:D Although, it will probably be closer to the end of this year to the beginning of next year before I see fish:( If I haven't mentioned this yet, this will be a pain stakingly sloooow build. But I will try to keep you guys updated with pics and info as they come:)

[TTrout]

Here is what I am thinking for the tank. I still need to figure out where to put the closed loop, drains, and sump return lines. Any ideas you may have are very welcome. The end closest to you in this photo will be flush with the bathroom wall, so it can't be drilled or plumbed. TIA

http://www.thecadesusa.com/travis/images/tank-sketchup.jpg

[20 20]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9346726#post9346726 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TTrout
flush with the bathroom wall

Heh, you didn't do that on purpose, did you?:p

[TTrout]

I am currently looking in to a couple of quotes through Glasscages.com and an A.G.E. tank through a company in Texas.

I have received the quote through glasscages and am impressed with the price at the moment. Although, I do like some of the features that A.G.E. offers, so I can't wait to see what that will come back to be.

Once I get that back I will decide which way I am going to go and then post an update. Also, I am finishing up on the list of equipment that I will need, so I will post that then as well.

[TTrout]

Ok, so I am trying to plan out the placement of where everything is going to go. My main goal is to keep things simple and accessible. I have created a 3D drawing of what I am currently thinking of. There is no plumbing in this graphic, because I haven't figured that part out yet :confused:

http://www.thecadesusa.com/travis/images/fishroom 02.jpg
From the main tank on the right, there is two water containers for top-off and water changes, then to the left of that is a utility sink which will have my RO/DI above that (not pictured), to the left the skimmer, CA reactor, and water ever else, to the left on top is a 75 gallon refugium, on the bottom is a custom made sump. Also, under the main tank will be the plumbing for the OM 4-way and the pump.

What do you think? Any suggestions? Plumbing? Rearrange everything?

Thank you,

[20 20]

How would you get flow to the refugium? Maybe a pump from the sump up to the fuge, with overflow back down? Maybe have the fuge on the floor next to the sump, plumbed with bulkheads, or possibly one large fuge/sump combo. That would make the plumbing easier, and give you the whole countertop for 'working'.

[20 20]

Or, put the fuge/sump under the main tank...

[TTrout]

How would you get flow to the refugium? Maybe a pump from the sump up to the fuge, with overflow back down? Maybe have the fuge on the floor next to the sump, plumbed with bulkheads, or possibly one large fuge/sump combo. That would make the plumbing easier, and give you the whole countertop for 'working'.
Well, good question. What I have been thinking of, is taking the overflow drains and sending them to the back wall and around to the skimmer and refugium at a down grade so the water would flow down via gravity. Then the refugium would drain in to the sump. The tricky part then is getting the water back to the tank from the sump. Do you think a dart for the return would be enough to send it back around the room and in to the tank?

Also, the reason I wanted to have the refugium seperate, was because I am thinking of having some Sea Horses in there eventually. Would that be a bad/good idea?

Thank you,

[BigReef]

I would have 1 of the overflows feed the skimmer and the other one drain directly into the fuge on top and then drain down to the sump. Make sure that you have an emergency overflow in your overflow box and also have extra drains from your fuge to your sump. Don't want any accidental overflows!
You'd have to run a hard line from your sump back to the Dart but you could run that along the floor. You might have to throttle the Dart back a bit so your only getting about 4-5 times turnover on your tank volume. At 5 ft of head the Dart is still pushing 2500 gph.

As for the closed loop, I'd make sure to have at least 2 2 inch bulkheads centered in the back of the tank for the intakes and probably 3 or 4 1 inch returns spaced evenly across the top.
Make sure to use some type of intake strainer on your intakes.
You could even use eductors on your returns but you'd have to make sure to use a pump with a high pressure rating.

Did you ever decide on a tank maker. I've gotten quotes on a new 500-600 gallon and Glass Cages is clearly the cheapes! But, I've heard some negatives about their customer service. every time I've spoken with them, they've always been super!

Tim

[20 20]

From the picture it didn't look like the fuge was very far below the bottom of the overflows. I wasn't sure if the water could flow to the fuge. If it's lower then yes, you could have the main drain feed the fuge. But where in would you actually run the plumbing? It would be much simpler to have the fuge/sump under the main tank, I would think.

[8BALL_99]

I know you talked about changing the sheetrock out to green board, But you might also want to consider just covering the sheetrock all together.. I have a 180 and a Equipment room. When I did mine I put Epoxy on the floor and covered all the walls with FRP. I also took the time to silicone around all the joints and install PVC Base boards and Case molding. I also siliconed around all that. Basicly its a water proof fish bowl :) execpt the door of course.. Even that is a insulated door to keep the moisture in the fish room.. I also installed a Intake and Exhaust fan on a thermostat. I'm not sure how much water you will have. Mine has a 180, 92, two 40 gallon frag tanks a 40 gallon sump and a 75 gallon sump. I had TONS of moisture in that room intill I installed the fans. There is still alot of moisture in the room, But it doesn't knock you down like it use to lol. It has its own Ac and most of the moisture stays in the Equipment room and not the house!. Look in my Gallery if you want to see some pictures of mine. Mine doesn't have a bathroom though :(

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9534917#post9534917 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigReef
I would have 1 of the overflows feed the skimmer and the other one drain directly into the fuge on top and then drain down to the sump. Make sure that you have an emergency overflow in your overflow box and also have extra drains from your fuge to your sump. Don't want any accidental overflows!
You'd have to run a hard line from your sump back to the Dart but you could run that along the floor. You might have to throttle the Dart back a bit so your only getting about 4-5 times turnover on your tank volume. At 5 ft of head the Dart is still pushing 2500 gph.
So, maybe something smaller. So, if my calculations are correct, I shouldn't be pushing anything more than 900GPH; is that right?

Return Pump Options:

Little Giant - 4-MDQX-SC: 145W,1080gph@6ft head
Iwaki MD40RLXT: 140W,1200gph@4ft head
Pan World 100PX-X: 130W,1200gph@4ft head
Gen-X PCX55HP (High Pressure): 170W,1080gph@4ft head

I am leaning towards the Pan World. What do you guys think? Is this a quite pump?

As for the closed loop, I'd make sure to have at least 2 2 inch bulkheads centered in the back of the tank for the intakes and probably 3 or 4 1 inch returns spaced evenly across the top.
Make sure to use some type of intake strainer on your intakes.
You could even use eductors on your returns but you'd have to make sure to use a pump with a high pressure rating.
Why 2 bulkheads for CL drain? For redundancy? This will be going out to a OM 4-way, so definately 4 returns. I am wanting to create a rack system similar to how Steve Weast setup his tank; although my aquascaping will be, of course, a bit different.

Did you ever decide on a tank maker. I've gotten quotes on a new 500-600 gallon and Glass Cages is clearly the cheapes! But, I've heard some negatives about their customer service. every time I've spoken with them, they've always been super!

Tim [/B]
I have received all of my quotes back and Glasscages is the cheapest. I have also read bad and very good things about them, so I don't know what to think. So far all of the good ones have been fairly recent and all of the bad ones were older posts. So, maybe they have changed? However, I am now debating again whether I want Glass or Acrylic. Mainly because of the price I got back from Premium Acuatics and the builder they go through. I think I would have more flexibility with the "features" I want with acrylic than I would with glass. It is a little bit more expensive though, but not much. So, if I go with glass it will be glasscages, if I go with acrylic it will probably be IPI through Premium Aquatics.

Thank you,

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9539725#post9539725 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 8BALL_99
I know you talked about changing the sheetrock out to green board, But you might also want to consider just covering the sheetrock all together.. I have a 180 and a Equipment room. When I did mine I put Epoxy on the floor and covered all the walls with FRP. I also took the time to silicone around all the joints and install PVC Base boards and Case molding. I also siliconed around all that. Basicly its a water proof fish bowl :) execpt the door of course.. Even that is a insulated door to keep the moisture in the fish room.. I also installed a Intake and Exhaust fan on a thermostat. I'm not sure how much water you will have. Mine has a 180, 92, two 40 gallon frag tanks a 40 gallon sump and a 75 gallon sump. I had TONS of moisture in that room intill I installed the fans. There is still alot of moisture in the room, But it doesn't knock you down like it use to lol. It has its own Ac and most of the moisture stays in the Equipment room and not the house!. Look in my Gallery if you want to see some pictures of mine. Mine doesn't have a bathroom though :(
Very interesting, thank you for posting! :) The humidity is one of my larger concerns. I am planing on installing a humidity controller and exaust fan that BigReef suggested back on the first page. Do you have an exaust fan and a seperate A/C in the room then? What kind of A/C is it? Why do you have an A/C, just to keep the room cooler? Or to help with Humidity? or both?

Thank you,

[8BALL_99]

Np. Hope it helps give you idea's. Your setup is alot like mine. Well I started out with just a Window AC. I cut a hole in the wall and mounted it above my sink. If you look in the picutures you can see it.. Its a 6000 BTU AC from lowes.. Cost all of about 125.00 lol.. ALOT cheaper then a chiller! The plan for the AC was just to keep the tanks cool. Plus I figured keeping the room cool without having the moisture going into my houses Central ac would be nice. It also takes moisture out of the air. Lots of it.. It said something like a pint per hour on the box. But I made the room somewhat water proof so that was just a + I found out in the winter time that I still needed some cooling in the room, But it seemed stupid to run the AC when it was cold outside.. I tried a air exchanger for a while it didn't keep the room cool enough. So I ended up with 2 inline exhaust fans made by fantech.. One pulls are from outside the other Exhausts air outside. I sorta rigged them to a household Thermostat so they would cut on at whater ever tempiture I set. So far this has worked great.. I have a humastat that I might wire into the mix so in the summer they will come on if the humity gets above a certain %. But like I said I built the room to withstand moisture so thats not my main issue.

There are several ways of doing a vent.. I just used a Relay, 24volt transformer and a L cheap O house hold thermostat. I also have a humastat made by fantech that is just a switch.. It has a dial with a moisture reading.. You set the humidity level and it either opens or closes a circuit when the level is reached. Hook it to a relay and it does Pretty much the same as what the premade device on the first page does. Just cheaper

I also have Oceans Motions wave makers on both my tanks.. love them. I have two intakes for both systems as well.. It helps cut down on the suction of the intakes. I have two drains for the sump in my overflow aswell.. There is nothing wrong with Backups.. Infact I think they are common since!! Just be sure to keep your intakes on your CL low enough not to suck air but high enough so they aren't a PITA to clean.. Mine are 6" down and I ended up having to put 90s on them so they wouldn't suck air :( Should have went 7 or 8 I guess....You will love the External overflow. It makes the tank look so much cleaner. Mine isn't as large as yours. Mines only 24"wide by 20" tall by about 6". Works great though. That is where I dose most of my additives including my CA reactor output.

[TTrout]

Well, it's been a while, but I am back at it and starting to get my fishroom setup. I am currently trying to figure out how I am going to build the stand for the in-wall 180.

Since, I know everyone likes pics :) I have created a few conceptual drawings of what I would like to do. However, I am no engineer by any means, so if you see something wrong, please chime in and say so. Also, any ideas to do it differently are also welcome :)

http://www.thecadesusa.com/travis/images/stand-1.jpg
http://www.thecadesusa.com/travis/images/stand-2.jpg

Basically, I have a pre-built opening for the tank built by builder (photos earlier in the thread). The top part of the stand will bolt in to the wall. Two 4x4's will be notched out so that the frame will rest within 4x4 notches and then screwed in. Will this be enough support? I am open to anything, although my goal is to keep the front open.

Thank you,

[customcolor]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9539814#post9539814 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TTrout


Return Pump Options:

Little Giant - 4-MDQX-SC: 145W,1080gph@6ft head
Iwaki MD40RLXT: 140W,1200gph@4ft head
Pan World 100PX-X: 130W,1200gph@4ft head
Gen-X PCX55HP (High Pressure): 170W,1080gph@4ft head

I am leaning towards the Pan World. What do you guys think? Is this a quite pump?


Why 2 bulkheads for CL drain? For redundancy? This will be going out to a OM 4-way, so definately 4 returns. I am wanting to create a rack system similar to how Steve Weast setup his tank; although my aquascaping will be, of course, a bit different.



personaly i would go with a gen x but not the 55hp. i would do the mak 4. less watts and still great flow and fairly quiet. do a dart on the closed loop or a dalphin amp master(quiet, i have one hooked to a super squirt)

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10583427#post10583427 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by customcolor
personaly i would go with a gen x but not the 55hp. i would do the mak 4. less watts and still great flow and fairly quiet. do a dart on the closed loop or a dalphin amp master(quiet, i have one hooked to a super squirt)
I think I am going to go with two darts.

Thank you,

[Gudwyn]

I would recommend looking at an HRV unit. Kinda pricy, but they usually have built in humidity control and won't drive up your heating/cooling costs.

Usually the installation is the expensive part, but you have an external wall right there so it doesn't need to be worked into the houses duct system.

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10584374#post10584374 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gudwyn
I would recommend looking at an HRV unit. Kinda pricy, but they usually have built in humidity control and won't drive up your heating/cooling costs.

Usually the installation is the expensive part, but you have an external wall right there so it doesn't need to be worked into the houses duct system.
Thank you, the HRV is very interesting. I will definately look in to them when I get to that point. The only thing that concerns me though with pulling air from outside in to the room is that I am in a new housing area surrounded by farms. I would hate to pull something in to the room that was just recently sprayed (weed killer and pesticides, etc.).

[reef / aholic]

Do you have an aquarium, it has been 5 months???

[TTrout]

not yet, still saving up the funds. Unfortunately, this is not going to be one of those threads were everything is done in 14 days ;)

Probably more like 14-28 months...but hey, they said you have to have patience with this hobby, right? :p

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10583148#post10583148 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TTrout
Well, it's been a while, but I am back at it and starting to get my fishroom setup. I am currently trying to figure out how I am going to build the stand for the in-wall 180.

Since, I know everyone likes pics :) I have created a few conceptual drawings of what I would like to do. However, I am no engineer by any means, so if you see something wrong, please chime in and say so. Also, any ideas to do it differently are also welcome :)

http://www.thecadesusa.com/travis/images/stand-1.jpg
http://www.thecadesusa.com/travis/images/stand-2.jpg

Basically, I have a pre-built opening for the tank built by builder (photos earlier in the thread). The top part of the stand will bolt in to the wall. Two 4x4's will be notched out so that the frame will rest within 4x4 notches and then screwed in. Will this be enough support? I am open to anything, although my goal is to keep the front open.

Thank you,
...BUMP...

Any ideas on this?

Thank you,

[TTrout]

Well, I am finally going to build the stand this weekend. I am off tomorrow, so I will be stopping by Lowes to grab some wood and misc supplies. :)

Here is my conceptual drawing of the stand. Let me know what you think!! :)

http://www.thecadesusa.com/travis/images/180-stand.jpg

Thanks,

[blueroof]

A suggestion for your walls in your fish room. FRP panels (fiberglass reinforced plastic). I comes in 4X8 sheets and is glued directly to the drywall. It it used in restaurant kitchens and bathrooms. Fairly inexpensive when compared to ceramic tile and is very tough and completely immune to moisture. It is sold at most home improvement centers.

[PJsStuff]

how big is your Fish room?

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10780488#post10780488 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by blueroof
A suggestion for your walls in your fish room. FRP panels (fiberglass reinforced plastic). I comes in 4X8 sheets and is glued directly to the drywall. It it used in restaurant kitchens and bathrooms. Fairly inexpensive when compared to ceramic tile and is very tough and completely immune to moisture. It is sold at most home improvement centers.
I will look in to them. What kind of glue do you use to adhere them? Something like liquid nails?

Did you use them in your fishroom? Do you have pics of what it looks like?

Thank you,

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10780563#post10780563 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PJsStuff
how big is your Fish room?
It's about 8.5' x 7.5'. The tank is going on the 8.5' wall...

[blueroof]

My fish room walls are painted concrete block. But all of my restaurants use frp in the back of the house. It looks new years later. You are correct about the liquid nails. There are Sleeves to cover the joints where one sheet meets the next and for corners (inside and out)

[TTrout]

blueroof - that's interesting. I will definitely check that out this weekend. I need to pick up some more supplies for the stand, so I will see if I can find it at lowes.

Thanks,

[erics3000]

I see you changed your stand around to include legs by the wall. Good Idea. I would not use just the wall to support the edge of the tank. At least with you taking your time you can get it all setup the way you want.

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10796808#post10796808 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by erics3000
I see you changed your stand around to include legs by the wall. Good Idea. I would not use just the wall to support the edge of the tank. At least with you taking your time you can get it all setup the way you want.
Thanks. I was kind of thinking the same thing. I have also changed my mind about having the tank be completely in the wall, the picture frame look. Instead, it will be set back 4 inches.

I do like taking my time with this. I am one of those people that likes the planning and setup of everything...although it can be a bit agonizing when I keep looking at that empty hole! :rollface:

[erics3000]

Have you sen Fudge Marcs thread?

[TTrout]

erics3000 - I am not sure, it's possible I have... Do you have a link?

Thanks,

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10802625#post10802625 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by erics3000
Have you sen Fudge Marcs thread?
I think I found it...
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=686757

Skimming through it, I do remember that thread. It's an interesting idea to do a plywood tank.

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10802625#post10802625 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by erics3000
Have you sen Fudge Marcs thread?

I love his fish room, the rubber floor tiles are a great idea. I think I will be copying a lot of his ideas. I also like the inset look, I wish I could do the side view as well. Unfortunately, my wife isn't going to allow the porthole next to the toilet :lol:

Thank you for reminding me about this thread! :)

[erics3000]

he is the man.

[TinyTanker]

well you neeed to take into account having the ro unit or soft water for the home with plumbing fresh and waste in the maintenance room also a fan to dissipate the heat with my installation i lacked the ability to access the sump. plumb it to be on the other side of the room instead of crouching to work on it. also a quarantine tank for new addittions and sick stuff that is not in the system of water transfer in order to Operate or initiate

to clean the glass on the front you may want to have a go go gadget arm attached to your next of kin

[TinyTanker]

use green marine plywood for majority of wood stuff. it will pay off in the long run

[erics3000]

I would stay away from pressure treated lumber. You do not want anything with chemicals in or around your tank.

[TTrout]

TinyTanker - Thank you. I will definately take that in to consideration. I do have the room plumbed for a utility sink, so I will tap off the supply and drain for the ro/di unit. I am also looking in to an exaust fan with a humidistat to control heat and humidity.

I will probably put 3/4" marine plywood on top of the stand with the 3/4" foam above that.


erics3000 - The 4x4's were only available in pressure treated lumber. Everything else I bought was regular wood. Do you think I should replace the 4x4's with 2x4's doubled up or do you think just the legs would be ok pressure treated?

Thank you,

[jwccwj]

TTrout I think nextdog uses FTP in his build,I don't have a link but if you look around this forum you should find it.It looks interesting.

Nice set-up I love the coast to coast overflow.

Jamie.

[jwccwj]

Are you going to use dursos in that external overflow or just bulk-heads with strainers???

[Rue]

I would highly suggest you put in a window while you can. It doesn't have to be anything big or expensive...in fact, a small, narrow window would be better...

...but you'll want it to open...

[TTrout]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10805242#post10805242 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jwccwj
Are you going to use dursos in that external overflow or just bulk-heads with strainers???
Yes, The overflow will be about 6 inches deep, so I will have 2 durso's in the 1.5" bulkheads that feed to a 2" main drain.

[erics3000]

Yeah when someone finds 4x4 that are not marine grade it seams like everyone on rc goes crazy and ask where di you set them. Do some research on rc but I think you will find everyone usally swaps them out. There are bunh of different ways to go on everything but the chemicla thing always scare me. ALl the time and money we put into this hobby is scarry. Just dont want to take any chances.

I would go with some type of stand pipe IMO. I just hate all the extra noise