Setting up first sump, need help!

[axia55]

My setup consists of a 28 bowfront for the main tank, and a 10g sump divided into Drain-Fuge-Return. I am using a QuietOne 2200 586gph for my return, and a 600gph Hurricane Quietflow overflow. I think I know what the problem is, but I want to make sure before I go buy more equipment.
When I start the overflow and plug in the pump, everything is working, but after a few minutes, the return compartment which the pump is in begins to run dry and I have to shut the pump off. Is the solution really as easy as just getting a smaller pump with less GPH? If so, would a QuietOne 1200 296gph be sufficient or do I need something in the 400-500gph range?

[joebo1717]

Why don't you just put a gate valve on your pump to tune back the amount of water you run through. This will save you from paying for a new pump.

[axia55]

Will a gate valve working with flexible tubing? Is this what you meant- http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=17809&cat=0&page=1

[NYReef]

There are valves that you can put on the flexible return hose, better to use some PVC right from the pump and mount the ball valve on that. How is the Hurricane overflow? I was thinking of getting one to set my refugium up, overflows always make me nervous for possible flooding.

[pjf]

All of the above solutions will work but there are many ways to “skin a cat.” Have you tried the following?

• Add more water to your system when the pump is turned off. Perhaps there is a “time lag” between turning on the pump and the return compartment filling up.
• Moving a baffle to increase the size of the return compartment. I’ve had to increase the size of my return compartment a few times because I got tired of replacing evaporated water. I now use my large return compartment for water changes.
• Check the overflow for restrictions? Use the “Drain/Overflow Size Calculator” link on lower left of the Reef Central Home Page to figure out if your drain flow is keeping up with your return flow. There is also a “Head Loss Calculator” with specifications of scores of pumps to compute return flow.

[Justdrew]

You need to set the water level in your sump with your pump running. There will always be more water in the sump when the pump is turned off. Start up the system and let it equalize. Then get the level in your sump you want it to operate at. Make sure you then turn off your pump so you can check if your sump can handle the backflow. You don't want to be away when this happens in case it can't handle the volume.

[Rouselb]

justdrew is correct, you have to start the pump fill your show tank till it starts to drain, then add more water to your sump unitl your at a level where if you shut the pump back off it does not overflow your sump.

[ChemE]

Justdrew and Rouselb are correct. Additional to what everyone else has mentioned I'll offer this. In a 29g tank, you only need (45-90)gph through your skimmer sump loop. The point is to keep the surface of the display clear of surface active proteins and move them down to the sump so they can be skimmed. 1.5-3 tank volumes per hour is more than sufficient to accomplish this tank. More water is just extra electricity, heat, and expense. The rest of your water movement should come from a closed loop, powerhead(s), or wavemaker, etc.

Incidentally, I tested my Maxi-Jet 1200 as a return pump against 48" of head and it produced 86gph at 14 watts. Fantastic for a setup your size.