Filter direct

[saltyESQ]

After a week my tds has been increasing and after some over the phone testing, they are sending me out a new RO membrane (75gpd, instead of the 100gpd bc my tds is over 500ppm) and they are sending me out a full refill for both of my DI's because they have significantly changed color due to the membrain failure.

[Bebo77]

i had the same problem wiith awi... they sent me out a new unit free of charge as well....

[JE]

i dont know a thing about ro/di units. i have an ro/di unit at my house that is not running. is it possible to buy new filters to get it going or do i need to buy a new unit? do you guys have anumber for any of those places????
thanks,john

[RobbyG]

The filter direct units have a very small DI filter and therefore are going to get used up very quickly if your incoming water has a high TDS. A 75 Dow filmtec will decrease the TDS further than the 100 but you are still going to eat through those small DI canisters very quickly. I suggest you get a bigger refillable DI canister from AIW or another company and buy a 5lb bag of resin.

[bromion]

You can get new filters. Search on google for "reverse osmosis membrane" or "DI Resin" Whoever made your unit might also sell replacement parts directly. I tried to post a URL, but it was automatically removed by RC!

[JE]

thanks!

[glaudds]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9046367#post9046367 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jjb81speed
i dont know a thing about ro/di units. i have an ro/di unit at my house that is not running. is it possible to buy new filters to get it going or do i need to buy a new unit? do you guys have anumber for any of those places????
thanks,john

Just change out the pre filters, replace the ro membrane,and refill the DI and you're good to go. I've gotten my stuff from here..
http://stores.ebay.com/H2O-SPLASH_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm

[RobbyG]

I just reread the original post and if your TDS is at 500 there is no way that you will ever get long term good Ro with an Ebay Filter. You need a much more heavy duty Ro filter, you need to get a unit form Buckeye or AirwaterIce.com
The Ebay units are only good if you have incoming TDS of less than 180 if not the DI resin will be used up so fast that you will be spending a fortune.

[bromion]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9047663#post9047663 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
I just reread the original post and if your TDS is at 500 there is no way that you will ever get long term good Ro with an Ebay Filter. You need a much more heavy duty Ro filter, you need to get a unit form Buckeye or AirwaterIce.com
The Ebay units are only good if you have incoming TDS of less than 180 if not the DI resin will be used up so fast that you will be spending a fortune.

Does this have to do with the RO membrane itself, the housing, the sediment filters, and/or something else? Is there a difference between cheap RODI units with expensive membranes and expensive units?

[cthetoy]

I buy all my RO Prefilters (Carbon and Sediment) From Sams Club for $30. It includes 6 total (4 carbon and 2 sediments prefilters).

[RobbyG]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9048057#post9048057 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bromion
Does this have to do with the RO membrane itself, the housing, the sediment filters, and/or something else? Is there a difference between cheap RODI units with expensive membranes and expensive units?

Yes, the more expensive units have bigger and better prefilters, and the DI Filter is much larger a refillable. Also these units come standard with Filmtec 75 membranes. At this point you are changing out so much stuff that your ebay filter is coming closer to the more expensive units but it is also going to cost you just as much to get there. This information would have been more relevant if it had been given to you before you bought the ebay unit.
Take a look at this post it has all the info.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=786842&highlight=ebay+ro

[bromion]

Yeah, I bought a unit off a RC person and ended up replacing all of the filters for various reasons. Ultimately cost what a new, fancier unit would have, but works great!

[tomconk]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9047663#post9047663 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
I just reread the original post and if your TDS is at 500 there is no way that you will ever get long term good Ro with an Ebay Filter. You need a much more heavy duty Ro filter, you need to get a unit form Buckeye or AirwaterIce.com
The Ebay units are only good if you have incoming TDS of less than 180 if not the DI resin will be used up so fast that you will be spending a fortune.

I have to disagree....I bought a unit from filtersdirect and my TDS was in the high 400's and the unit works fine....Heck the "cheap" filters lasted a long time also and my TDS was at 0-2 the whole time...

The filters direct units work great

[ReefMeister2]

Your membrane may be "leaking" past the seals. Test your water immediately AFTER the membrane to see. It shouldn't be more than 20-25 PPM at most. Your unit is far too new to have spent the cartridge that fast

I have a brandnew TDS meter available for $20 in case you need a backup.

[saltyESQ]

I checked right after the membrane and the tds reading was 80ppm

that is why filter direct is sending me out a new membrain.

[ReefMeister2]

I can almost guarantee your membrane housing is bad....not the membrane. Be sure to test the new membrane immediately after installation to see. Otherwise your DI will deplete in fast order again.



<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9055470#post9055470 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by saltyESQ
I checked right after the membrane and the tds reading was 80ppm

that is why filter direct is sending me out a new membrain.

[saltyESQ]

when I first hooked up the unit, it was reading 2ppm. After a couple gallons, the TDS went down to 0ppm. Does this help determine if it is the housing?
or when I hook up the new membrain, will this scenario will repeat itself?

[ReefMeister2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9055664#post9055664 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by saltyESQ
when I first hooked up the unit, it was reading 2ppm. After a couple gallons, the TDS went down to 0ppm. Does this help determine if it is the housing?
or when I hook up the new membrain, will this scenario will repeat itself?

Testing the final output product determines nothing.
Your TDS could be 1000 ppm and the DI would still bring it down to 0-2 TDS....that is, until it is depleted/saturated (which would be very quick)

Testing should be done at the membrane housing (output)
The DI is there simply to "mop up" any leftover contaminants.
The "meat" of the system is your Reverse Osmosis; which is what you need to diagnose.

Also remember that "TDS" is simply ONE parameter; one that is user-friendly (ie: dummy-proof) enough to measure. You stick something a glass of water and read the number. The disadvantage is that its use (TDS) is extremely limited.
Nonetheless, it should help diagnose your leaking housing

[saltyESQ]

ok just recieved and installed the new membrane. Interestingly, my previous membrane was a 100gpd and the new one is 75 gpd and the 75 seems to have a lot stronger flow than the 100. (which does not make sense)

[thirst]

I don't think the output should be greater in the 75 gpd membrane. It's possible that the 100 was damanged and wasn't working as intended?

For TDS, I am using an inline TDS meter, which i think is more helpful monitor TDS.

I have one at the RO output - the other out of the DI. out of the RO it reads around 6.

I am usiung the cheap AWI reef/home system

[glaudds]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9056530#post9056530 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by saltyESQ
ok just recieved and installed the new membrane. Interestingly, my previous membrane was a 100gpd and the new one is 75 gpd and the 75 seems to have a lot stronger flow than the 100. (which does not make sense)
Did you get a new flow restrictor for the 75gpd membrane?

[saltyESQ]

they only sent me the membrane

[glaudds]

It restricts flow to the drain so the membrane can operate at the most efficient pressure. Your waste to product ratio should be around 4:1.