Retrofit newbie needs help

[Weatherman]

I just received an IceCap T5 Retrofit from reefgeek and I’m a little bit surprised by the lack of any instructions on how to put it together. I’m wondering if I may have bitten off more than I can chew by going this route. In any case, I have many questions.

First of all, we have the wiring harness on the bulb side, with a convenient plug-in to the ballast. Shouldn’t there be something similar on the power cord side? It does seem that I need something to plug into that four-hole plug so I can wire the power cord to it.

<img src="http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/PufferReef/ice-cap.jpg">

[Weatherman]

Concerning the moisture-proof endcaps...

How are wires connected to bulb mount? Is the black bulb mount removable? I tried wiggling it around a bit and couldn't get it out. I don't want to break it.

<img src="http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/PufferReef/end-cap.jpg">

[Bergovoy]

I am not sure, but I think the four connector thing is for a fan.

The power cable will connect to the black and white wires that are in that harness.

Check the schematic on top of the ballast.

That schematic will also tell you the color of the other wires to connect to the end caps for your lamps.

It really is not that hard.

But if you get some fans get the same type of conector and again follwo the drawing for how to wire the fans

Bill

[Bergovoy]

What do the back of the end caps look like, (and the bottom)

Bill

[Weatherman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9049690#post9049690 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bergovoy
I am not sure, but I think the four connector thing is for a fan.

The power cable will connect to the black and white wires that are in that harness.



D'oh!

It would help if I looked at the colors of the wires.

The schematic on the top of the ballast implies that the power cord comes in from the opposite side of the ballast from where the lights are connected.

Thank you for solving that problem.


I'll take another picture of the endcaps so we can look at those a little more closely. Just give me a few minutes....

[Weatherman]

I think I figured it out. It just took the bright light from the camera flash to see them.

Each side of the bulb mount has a copper wire clamp. Just push the ends of the the proper wires in the clamps and I'm all set.

<img src="http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/PufferReef/cap-clamp.jpg">


As you said... it ain't that hard. :)

[jecarl2]

I went through the same thing with reef geeks lights. Just shove those wires through the bottom of the end caps and they will hold, rather snug. Also my reflectors had a film of plastic covering them that I just discovered today....3 months later, make sure you take the plastic off them.

[Bergovoy]

No problem. I did not mean to imply that you should have figured it out originally.

Like many things, once you do it is basic, but until then, it is a foriegn language...

Good luck

Let us know how it works out for you

bill

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9050326#post9050326 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jecarl2
I went through the same thing with reef geeks lights. Just shove those wires through the bottom of the end caps and they will hold, rather snug. Also my reflectors had a film of plastic covering them that I just discovered today....3 months later, make sure you take the plastic off them.

It is not "reefgeek's" fault. This is how the stuff is sold everythwere. If you buy Fluorescent housings at HD or LOWES, this is the way they come as well.

Bean

[Weatherman]

I've done a fair amount of electrical work, but most of the connectors I've seen are ones where wires are looped around a screw and tightened down, or wires are wrapped around each other and capped off. I wasn't thinking about a wire clamp where you just push the wire in and the clamp holds it (although I've seen those types of things before).

In any case, it's not a big deal.

It was nice to be able to come here last night, post a question, and within minutes be pointed in the right direction.

[Fanof49ASU]

I'm looking at this same setup.
I don't have experience in wiring, so give me an idea of how difficult it would be for a beginner to setup.

[Weatherman]

Wiring is not difficult, if you have the right tools. A good wire stripper and some electrical tape is essential.

The ballast has a schematic which shows how the blue, yellow and red wires connect to the lamps (or, more specifically, to the end caps). Connecting the main power cord is easy, once you find the black, white and green wires. Just connect black to black, white to white and green to green and neatly wrap off the connections with electrical tape so there is no short circuit.

Probably the most challenging thing with a retrofit is neatly mounting the end caps and wires into a canopy. You’ll need tape measure, a pen or pencil, a drill, screws, a Philips and/or flat head screw driver and wire ties.

A lot of patience, the right tools, and lots of care (since we’re dealing with electricity) are all you need.

[BeanAnimal]

Actually electrical tape is not essential and should NEVER be used in place of wire nuts or other similar aproved connectors.

I certainly hope you made the mains connections using wire nuts or similar mechanical connectors. Electrical tape is simply NOT suitable for such a connection.

If you are not sure just ask, and we can get your straightened out in a safe manner :)

Bean

[Fanof49ASU]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9053272#post9053272 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Weatherman
Wiring is not difficult, if you have the right tools. A good wire stripper and some electrical tape is essential.

The ballast has a schematic which shows how the blue, yellow and red wires connect to the lamps (or, more specifically, to the end caps). Connecting the main power cord is easy, once you find the black, white and green wires. Just connect black to black, white to white and green to green and neatly wrap off the connections with electrical tape so there is no short circuit.

Probably the most challenging thing with a retrofit is neatly mounting the end caps and wires into a canopy. You’ll need tape measure, a pen or pencil, a drill, screws, a Philips and/or flat head screw driver and wire ties.

A lot of patience, the right tools, and lots of care (since we’re dealing with electricity) are all you need.

Sounds easy enough. Thanks!

And yeah I agree, the wiring connector would be much better than tape.

[Weatherman]

Absolutely use the wire connectors. The retrofit kit comes with them. Place the ends of the wires into the connector and give it a good twist, then try to pull the wires apart. If they come apart, try again until the connection is snug.

Since the splice could be exposed to water, I prefer to wrap it in electrical tape. It may not look very neat and maybe it doesn't really help repel water, but I've just gotten into a habit of doing it that way.

[BeanAnimal]

It is usually a good idea to pre-twist the wires before puttin them in a wire nut. I have seen a LOT of new deviced come with stab-in type spring clamps (similar to the connectors on the end caps.) I would suggest tossing such connectors in the trash and getting wire nuts. UL listed and CODE approved or not, the spring clamps suck and should be outlawed.

[NeveSSL]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9054430#post9054430 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Weatherman
Absolutely use the wire connectors. The retrofit kit comes with them. Place the ends of the wires into the connector and give it a good twist, then try to pull the wires apart. If they come apart, try again until the connection is snug.

Since the splice could be exposed to water, I prefer to wrap it in electrical tape. It may not look very neat and maybe it doesn't really help repel water, but I've just gotten into a habit of doing it that way.

Better yet (and still simple and quick) would be soldering the cables and heatshrinking them with 3Ms heatshrink that has the glue in it that you can get at walmart that would GUARANTEE a water-proof joint.

Just a thought. :)

[BeanAnimal]

Actually solder is not a good idea in many cases. Soldering does not create a mechanical joint, solder is an electrical connection, not mechanical. So you would still need the wire nut!

There are silicone filled wire nuts and other types of connectors (Butt, parallel, scotchlock etc). If you are concerned I would either use the silicone filled wire nuts or the silicone butt splices tha thave integral heatshrink as well.

Bean