View Full Version : The Best way to install a External Return Pump?
RobsReefs
01/31/2007, 12:05 AM
Hello All:
Well I just bout a new pump and need some advice on how to install it.I am replacing a Quiet one 3000 witch was submersible. I will be going with an external pump. A Custom Sea Life Titanium Velocity T3. My sump is acrylic and i have room for the pump next to the sump. My question is, Do I just drill for a bulkhead and run SEC 40 PVC and a union to the pump or should I use a bulkhead with the clear hose fitting to the pump so it will not vibrate the sump. These pumps are suppose to be very quiet, well see.
also any pics would be helpful.http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r264/Robs26reef/img0253ig0.jpg
Jim_S
01/31/2007, 12:29 AM
Here is how I did mine
http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m199/jimdogg187/?action=view¤t=DSCF2865.jpg
I chose to hard plumb mine, but the hose works too.
I don't get any noise or vibration from the PVC, and I have the pump sitting on a mouse pan.
Jim
jdieck
01/31/2007, 01:03 AM
I would recommend a flex hose piece at the inlet and outlet. Vibration no matter how small can stress the pump housing, loosen the bulkhead nut or in some cases it can even amplify the noise if the sump starts behaving like a drum.
RobsReefs
01/31/2007, 01:05 AM
thanks for the pic. that is what i am planning. dose it matter what side (intake or outlet) of the pump you have the ball valve on. i always thought to put it on the outlet side
jdieck
01/31/2007, 01:08 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9121314#post9121314 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobsReefs
thanks for the pic. that is what i am planning. dose it matter what side (intake or outlet) of the pump you have the ball valve on. i always thought to put it on the outlet side
If you need to control the flow install it in the output. The one in the input shall always be fully open to prevent cavitation. It becomes useful when you need to remove the pump for maintanance so you do not need to empty the sump.
A good alternative for an inlet valve is to use an internally threaded bulkhead and just use a threaded cap to close the line when removing the pump. Cheap, simple and do not take space.
RobsReefs
01/31/2007, 01:16 AM
Any one have experience with these pumps. Are they as quiet as they say?
I recommend hard-plumbing with either schedule 40 or 80 PVC. Here's what I did and what I suggest:
- Use an oversized (1-1/4") PVC threaded bulkhead located at the back corner of the sump.
- Thread an oversized (1-1/4") PVC 90-degree elbow on the bulkhead.
- Use a PVC reducer (1-1/4" to 3/4") to connect the elbow to your pump.
The oversized (1-1/4") elbow will not reduce your flow. To attach or remove your pump, simply lift one end of the elbow and thread it. The elbow gives you more space inside your cabinet. It will move up and down with vibration without causing a leak.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/93304Refugium_975_gph-med.JPG
Pictured above on the far right is an Iwaki pump on an elbow.
JohnnyM2
01/31/2007, 11:14 AM
My external pump is also hard plumbed. The inside of my cabinet is lined with a vibration absorbing rubber mat and both the sump and the pump sit on that mat. I have a 90deg. elbow as suggested by pjf and I inserted a union ball valve (This is a ball valve with a union built onto each side. You can get them on various internet sites and sometimes at Lowes. The advantage of the union ball valve is that the system can be disconnected from either side using the ball valve to sht off the line and it requires a lot less space than a ball valve with seperate unions on each side. jdieck is right on that you should keep the input ball valve full on during operation and you can eliminate the input ball valve using a threaded cap inside the sump if you need to. Whenever I plumb anything, I make sure I can dissasemble it without making a mess so I like ball valves.
I would definitely put flex pipe on either end of the pump as jdieck mentions above. If you need to throttle the flow, you should only put the valve on the outlet side - never limit the flow to the inlet side. I would also use a gate valve not a ball valve for this. The approach I took which is well documenetd on RC, is rather than put the valve in line wit hthe rurn, tee off the return to the sump and put the valve on the pipe going to the sump. This way the pump operates at max efficiency without restriction on the outlet.
RobsReefs
01/31/2007, 11:44 AM
Thanks guys, I like the idea of tee off the return to the display and and put the gate valve on the pipe going to the display and run the rest of the water to the sump. also using a 1 1/4'' bulkhead and a union ballvalve on the the intake side. I think I'll Do a 1 1/4'' bulkhead to a union ballvalve then a 2'' long price of flex pvc then to the pump (mounted on a mouse pad). I will need to control the flow so I will use the tee off return idea and run a gate valve to control the flow and the rest of the water can go to sump or chiller. I think I will use the flex pvc pipe for all my pluming this time. any one have experience with it. Thank you guys so much, Robert
jdieck
01/31/2007, 11:56 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9124016#post9124016 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobsReefs
Thanks guys, I like the idea of tee off the return to the display and and put the gate valve on the pipe going to the display and run the rest of the water to the sump. also using a 1 1/4'' bulkhead and a union ballvalve on the the intake side. Robert
Robert:
The valve goes in the pipe returning to the sump not the pipe going to the display.
RobsReefs
01/31/2007, 12:07 PM
Ok. that is what besl said. I got to typing fast and didn't remember witch was witch. Glad I didn't run to Home Depot and start plumbing. Thanks that is why I am a carpenter not a plumber LOL!
How about the flex pvc? any one have any tips or advice? Thanks, Robert
RobsReefs
01/31/2007, 12:12 PM
I just read my post and though about it for a sec. and DAM I would have a lot of flow in my sump. I feel DUMB I could edit it but.... No that would be wrong. I'll have to write that one off!! Good catch.
jdieck
01/31/2007, 12:41 PM
Flex PVC needs special PVC glue, it is available at yout HD, just insure you get the right one.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9124218#post9124218 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobsReefs
How about the flex pvc? any one have any tips or advice?
Flex PVC requires glue. I would use flexible FDA vinyl tubing that is easier to change and modify.
BruiseAndy
01/31/2007, 07:42 PM
Have the same pump here is what I did...and yes they are dead silent.
Stainless steel clamps but I'm still going to paint them before final install. Inside diameter of those barb by mpt fittings is same as ID of pump inlet and discharge.
http://members.aol.com/andybg8000/pump.jpg
http://members.aol.com/andybg8000/pump1.jpg
jdieck
01/31/2007, 11:04 PM
The attached file gives good tips on piping and loss determination.
Enjoy!
RobsReefs
02/11/2007, 06:07 PM
Well hear is the final result of my plumbing;
I love my drain setup, It is two one inch drains. it starts as a 1 1/2 '' durso then to a 1'' t that ends up as two 1'' drains. the one on the right has the straight shot down through the t and would carry all the flow if it weren't for the ball valve. to tune it I adjust the ball valve until it flows silent. it works very well.
on the return i have a t with a gate valve that goes back to the sump intake to adjust the flow through the display without restricting the pump. Over all it is very quiet and i am very happy with it. Thank You, Robert
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r264/Robs26reef/DSC_0021.jpg
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