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gig
01/31/2007, 11:41 AM
I got 4 72" (2 10K and 2 14K bulbs) for my 180G and they look great. I was aware of the limitations of what I can keep, but I was not willing or ready to go to MH yet. It seems alot of people use T5's.

Anyway, those who use VHO's what are your thought? what are you keeping, got any pictures?

Here's my tank, it's only got base rock in now.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/cgoldens/Fish/DSCN0144.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/cgoldens/Fish/DSCN0148.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/cgoldens/Fish/DSCN0146.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/cgoldens/Fish/DSCN0150.jpg

rudezuk
01/31/2007, 12:00 PM
I would put a couple more bulbs on there, and you will be set to keep anything you want.

I dont have pics, but I am keeping softies, SPS, LPS, LR, Fish and a clam with the VHO's on my tank.

I have 6 48" bulbs on my big tank and 4 36" bulbs on my small tank.

There are a couple of threads on this board with some remarkable tanks with only VHO lighting.. I tried MH's on my big tank, and took them off to put the VHO's on there, I like the light much better!

gig
01/31/2007, 12:12 PM
yeah, adding another two would up the watts just over the 4w/gal range (i'm close at 640W, 720W would be the 4w/gal threshold for a 180g).

It's not in the cards to buy it now, but I would also need to take down the canopy and rearange all the caps, as I spaced them out. Which will be a huge pain, but doable.

I can't search the forums for the VHO tanks, as I haven't gotten around to joining. So I guess I'll have to just try and find it without the search function ;)

ASH
01/31/2007, 12:17 PM
From IceCap:
When you need to re-lamp (time is dependant on what's driving the lamps) get the no reflector lamps for less money and by adding a white or reflective material behind the lamps, get much more light per watt into your tank.
With our VHO ballasts, 6 ft lamps run 2 - 3 years before needing replacement. Stores run them till they drop.

Andy

gig
01/31/2007, 02:07 PM
Thanks Andy,

I'm currently using tubes that have built in reflectors, but I also have them attached to a board that has been painted white. So I guess I am doing double duty.

My Ballast are made by PFO lighting

http://www.pfolighting.com/AquariumPgFolder/AqJepgFiles90402/VHO%20Retrokit.jpg

But don't they lose effectiveness after so much time? Sure they "run" for years, but I think they change and no longer emit the necessary spectrum after awhile.

i dont eat fish
01/31/2007, 02:07 PM
Why not add some t5's? You could do a couple of 36" 6500k's for par right in the middle (front to back) of the tank. They currently don't have 72" t5's available. I would probably add 2 rows of t5 now, and as you need to replace VHO bulbs, replace with t5's.

Remember to use individual reflectors. That's the most important part with t5.

I had VHO's on my tank before and I switched to t5. I like the color now more. I prefer whitish blue (t5) to whitish purple(VHO). I also like the idea of having more updated technology in my tank. As far as the buzz on here, t5 is the future.

gig
01/31/2007, 02:16 PM
thanks as well "Idef"

Well, I've spent the cash on the two VHO ballasts, it's not that easy to just throw them aside and spend more $$ on new ballast! :)

I'll just see how things go, I would likely still need to shift things around, because the space at the back of the tank is pretty much over the overflows, and it would be a waste to put new lights over that area.

I think spacing the current lights closer might be best. If I change lights, I'd probably move the canopy higher and just buy 3 MH pendants and get rid of one of the VHO ballasts.

David Grigor
01/31/2007, 02:35 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9125367#post9125367 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gig
thanks as well "Idef"

Well, I've spent the cash on the two VHO ballasts, it's not that easy to just throw them aside and spend more $$ on new ballast! :)


I promise you your throwing away more money by not changing ballasts. If you open up the case of the PFO, you will likely find Fulham ballasts inside ( unless they have changed there OEM supplier ). So what you don't spend on ballasts, your going to spend on bulb replacement costs. Pick your poison now or later cuz your going to spend more money in the long run with what you have.

I ran VHOs on Icecap ballasts for over 10years and have also used the fulham ballasts expect to buy bulbs twice as often.

cristhiam
01/31/2007, 03:21 PM
I have over my 125 6 48" bulbs 3 40Ws 6500K from HD, and 3 110W URI actinics. I'm using 2 IceCaps 660s
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~pinatas/10months/DSC00001.jpg

This was my 55 with 3 40W 6500K and 110 URI actinic. Using 1 IceCap 660.
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~pinatas/fulltank003.jpg


more pics here :)
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=998825

ASH
01/31/2007, 03:31 PM
Thank you David.
There are two myths that turn hobbyists into cash cows.
1. Spectrum shift - doesn't happen with any name brand fluorescent lamp driven by any ballast. (It does occur with MH lamps.)

2. The 6 month VHO lamp life lie. Once upon a time when people used billboard ballasts 6 months was a goal. With new technology, like ours, a 6 ft lamp will put out over 85% of initial output after 3 years of lighting a reef. Even a WH should provide a year of service but I can't vouch for that. They are known for being hard on lamps (and your wallet long term).

The other comment about having a white reflective material behind 180 VHO lamps doesn't fly. The internal reflector does stop up-lighting but doesn't (IMO) bounce light back down into your tank. A T5HO with a SLR can claim almost all light produced is directed where you want it.

And I agree, the future is here and it's T5HO lamps. Nevertheless, 6 ft VHO lamps last forever and longer lamps are more efficient. Mount those endcaps correctly as unlike an IceCap VHO ballast, there's no shutdown feature on a WH. See instructions below.

Andy
Complete details follow:
Waterproof Endcaps Installation Instructions

1. Follow the procedures for wire preparation and installation:

All endcaps must be mounted utilizing the screws, gaskets and standoffs provided by IceCap, Inc.

The Maximum ambient working temperature for the IceCap endcaps is 110°C or 230°F.

Proper ventilation in an enclosed hood is necessary to avoid heat from building up around your endcaps, which grip the hottest part of your lamps. (The added benefit to venting off heat is your fluorescent lamps will have a longer life and increased lumen output.)

All lead wires inserted into the endcaps must be stripped exactly 5/16" (inches), with a tolerance of +/- 1mm. All lead wires must be solid or tinned 18 AWG and UL approved for 600V applications.

The collar should only be tightened to a snug fit, DO NOT over tighten as this can crack the endcap or the lamp. Please be sure to insert and turn the lamp 90 degrees before tightening the collar. There are also waterproof endcaps where the bi-pins snap into place. In either case, marking a lamp at 6:00 to indicate that the mark should always be pointing away from the standoffs will ensure proper placement, especially if you later add a single lamp, snap on reflector.

Do not submerge lamps or endcaps, if they do become wet use a towel or cloth to wipe them dry. If the endcaps do become submerged, rinse with fresh water, disassemble and thoroughly dry (or replace the endcaps).

It is not necessary to disassemble the endcaps to clean contacts. With proper installation and use, no salt or corrosion can penetrate the endcaps.

Do not repeatedly remove and reinsert wires from wire traps, as this will fatigue the contacts and will eventually affect the connection points. Insertion of an eye-glass screw driver will allow you to remove a wire if necessary.

Be sure to avoid endcap contact with any of the following substances: Chlorinated Solvents, Aromatic Hydrocarbons and Animal or Vegetable Fatty acids.

100% Silicone may be applied to the insertion points after all wires have been inserted, if so desired, but is not necessary.

All IceCap endcaps are UL listed and approved to IP66 & IP67 as waterproof.

2. Properly secure the endcaps and standoffs. IceCap recommends a distance between endcaps so that there is a slight inward pressure from the endcaps to the bulbs.

3. After the endcaps are mounted, support and secure the wiring in your canopy.

4. Install bulbs properly.
a. Don’t force it.
b. Place the small reference mark on bulb to assure proper alignment.
c. A snug fit on the collar is all that is needed. Over tightening can cause stress and even damage the endcap.

5. Make sure that you use fans to cool the lamps when operating them. With T5HO applications it is critical for lamp life and to get maximum light output.

6. Professional installation can’t hurt.

IceCap recommends that on a regular basis you inspect the lighting system

1. Check the end caps for any browning. Browning is a sign of excessive heat.

2. Look at the bulb ends for unusual spotty or sudden darkening.
a. A gradual uniform darkening of the bulb is normal, sudden darkening is not.
b. Sudden darkening can be caused by many things. Call IceCap. As an example, a dark spot on one end only, can indicate a wiring problem.

Every six months or when you do bulb changes you should inspect the end caps

1. Check the endcap for any browning or brittleness.

2. Check that the seals are not dry, broken, shrunken or brittle.

3. Replace any damaged endcaps.


IceCap, Inc. recommends the use of a certified or licensed electrician for the installation of any of its electrical products.

Please contact IceCap, Inc. if you have any additional questions on the above.

Phone: 800-742-3227 Ext. 25 or E-mail: service@icecapinc.com

Roland Jacques
01/31/2007, 03:36 PM
personaly
id run it as is untle the T-6 Vho become more available. Or you may be able to find them now at your LFS. ASM distirbutes them, you might have your LFS call them. allmost twice as bright as T-12 VHO and they supose to make Parabolic reflectors also. i plain on using them as soon as i can use my bad hand again.

gig
01/31/2007, 03:42 PM
Andy, thanks for the info, I wish I'd looked into icecaps, but I'm a noob when it comes to Reef lighting. My LFS pretty much exclusively sells PFO and Hamilton lighting stuff. I've used many different LFS's and I trust this LFS the most. I asked him about t5's and he said that VHO's were more bang for the buck. I honestly don't think he sold them to me because I'd be back every 6 months buying $120 worth of bulbs. Most of his stuff is priced at similar cost to mail order for equipment and his livestock is even better.

gig
01/31/2007, 03:44 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9126055#post9126055 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques
personaly
id run it as is untle the T-6 Vho become more available. Or you may be able to find them now at your LFS. ASM distirbutes them, you might have your LFS call them. allmost twice as bright as T-12 VHO and they supose to make Parabolic reflectors also. i plain on using them as soon as i can use my bad hand again.

I'd assume this means a different ballast and endcaps? I should be good for a couple of year, then I'll upgrade if all goes well though. :)

Fish_Freek
01/31/2007, 07:04 PM
Ash, I run (2) 36" URI VHO's and (2) 36"6500k NO's on my reef, how long can i expect these to last before changing them out?? I didn't realize that bulb length made a difference in bulb life.

thanks

Roland Jacques
01/31/2007, 07:22 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9126129#post9126129 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gig
I'd assume this means a different ballast and endcaps? I should be good for a couple of year, then I'll upgrade if all goes well though. :)
NO WAY that's the beauty of them.

Same ballast, same End caps, same length...

you should buy the bushing/spacer things to keep the end cap water tight. t- 12 t-8 and t-6 all fit the same fixtures. the only downside I see limited selection of lamps manufactures. only one I no of.

Amphiprion
01/31/2007, 07:59 PM
I am going to replace the 3 T12 VHOs I have left with the new T6s, therefore having a combination of T5 and T6. I already had the T5s so I don't plan on changing them back.

gig
02/01/2007, 09:20 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9127835#post9127835 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Roland Jacques
NO WAY that's the beauty of them.

Same ballast, same End caps, same length...

you should buy the bushing/spacer things to keep the end cap water tight. t- 12 t-8 and t-6 all fit the same fixtures. the only downside I see limited selection of lamps manufactures. only one I no of.

awesomeness! I need to do some research on these new t6's!

I believe I have the watertight endcaps from PFO (see the pic above, that's exactly what I have).

ASH
02/01/2007, 10:55 AM
Fish_Freek - If you vent off lamp heat you can get 18 - 24 months from the VHO's, 12 months from the NO's.

If any are actinics, they drop output levels sooner but it matters less. For all intent and purposes, actinics are for our viewing, not for coral growing. You can run them till they drop.

If you're running an aquaculture frag shop, pour on the actinics to color-up the corals but add other lamps for PAR output.

Andy

gig
02/01/2007, 11:05 AM
ASH, so longer bulbs actually last longer?

also, like Roland stated, the new t6's will be useable in my current VHO setup? I don't see anyone making 72" bulbs, have you heard of production of those lengths?

Fish_Freek
02/01/2007, 01:40 PM
Thanks Ash!

Roland Jacques
02/01/2007, 05:03 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9132309#post9132309 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gig
ASH, so longer bulbs actually last longer?

also, like Roland stated, the new t6's will be useable in my current VHO setup? I don't see anyone making 72" bulbs, have you heard of production of those lengths?

they told me they should have 72"ers in March. but i never count to much on dates...

Randy1
02/01/2007, 05:11 PM
You'll forget the VHO's after viewing a good MH set-up, I did.

gig
02/01/2007, 05:18 PM
thanks Randy, but initial setup cost is my issue, I'd need 3 pendants + bulbs and I wasn't prepared for that cost at this time.