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megaspoot
02/04/2007, 02:57 AM
Are there any pressure rated internal pumps I can use to run my PM bullet 3? I've heard mag 24's work well but also heard that they aren't exactly pressure rated.

Quiet, low power, and low heat would be nice too.

bertoni
02/04/2007, 03:08 AM
I use Eheim pumps, which seem good to me. I don't know about pumps in the rating level you want, though.

megaspoot
02/04/2007, 03:15 AM
Not sure what kind of rating is needed actually, i don't really know how much "head" the skimmer adds. I'll email PM to ask

Icefire
02/04/2007, 03:18 AM
Both pump recommanded have a max head loss of 20-23ft.
Mag24 max head is 20feets, should be good.

d4a2n0k
02/04/2007, 07:44 AM
A MAG 24 is far from quiet, low power and heat. I had one that heated my tank to 86 degrees with no lights or any other pump going. Needless to say, I didnt use that pump.

Is it that you dont want to drill your sump to use an external pump? I dont have experience with your particular skimmer but I do have experience with beckett skimmers. Without a pressure rated external pump, your skimmer will run inconsistantly and will NEVER live to its potential.

Do yourself a favor and get the recommended Gen-X PCX40 or the Iwaki MD55RLT. If it is because of not drilling your sump, you can make a PVC setup that goes over the top of your sump.

megaspoot
02/04/2007, 02:52 PM
d4a2n0k, you are correct, I don't want to drill my sump, at least my girlfriend wont let me. I have a Gen-X 40, it's not the quietest pump in my opinion. I've heard there are problems with priming the pump if i make a PVC setup that goes over the side, in the event of a poweroutage.

d4a2n0k
02/04/2007, 02:58 PM
All you have to do is put a T fitting at the top and use a threaded cap. The first time you set it up, take the cap off and fill up the pipes. Reseal the cap with teflon tape and youre good to go.

In the event of a power outage, as long as your plumbing is airtight and the input stays submerged, it will remain primed and will restart when the power comes back on. The input will always stay submerged because your sump fills up when you lose power.

dgunn
02/04/2007, 03:03 PM
I've ran a mag 24 on my TS-500 for the last couple of years.
Its a 32" tall by 6" single injector beckett. I've tried it internal and external and seemed more consistent internal. I have an auto top off that keeps my sump level consistent though.
It has not added much heat to my system as far as I can tell but I have about 200 gallons in my system and it is in the basement.

I would trade you for your GenX however if your interested.
LMK

gabe3d
02/04/2007, 04:12 PM
All pumps are pressure rated to some extent else it won't be able to pump any water. IME, Mag drive pumps have the highest effecient in terms of flow/pressure/watting for a submersible pump. If you are looking at something close to the 2400 gph submersible, i'm not sure you'll be able to find anything other than a mag drive. Red Dragon makes something in those numbers but it has a terrible flow curve and it cost an arm and a leg. I think you should seriously consider using an external pump, it'll give you a lot more options for the kind of flow/pressure requirements you need. You don't necessarily have to drill a hole in the sump to use an external pump. Like it was previously mentioned you can go over the top and install a check valve at the intake so that when power goes out water will still remain in there.

chriscobb
02/04/2007, 04:29 PM
Mags and Eheims aren't truely pressured rated pumps to push a beckett skimmer.....Even though you might see on MRC site per say that a Mag will drive a single beckett skimmer, you won't get the same results out of the skimmer unless you put a dedicated pressure pump on the skimmer such as Blueline, PanWorld, Coralife, Sequence, etc....

megaspoot
02/04/2007, 05:33 PM
Ok, I've got a new revised sump/ refugium plan. How does this one look? How detrimental is it that the skimmer output is in the same comparment as the input? I'll aim the output towards the bubble trap, I need to do this because my skimmer skims more water than my overflow box will supply. I wanted to keep the return section small so that incase the overflow decided to die, there would not be enough water to cause a wet living room. Let me know what can be fixed or improved. All your help is greatly appreciated!
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/146882Sump_plan-med.JPG

pjf
02/04/2007, 06:23 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9158925#post9158925 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by megaspoot
How detrimental is it that the skimmer output is in the same comparment as the input?
The skimmer should be in the same compartment as the overflow input in order to process the water before organic compounds have a chance to float to the surface beyond the reach of your skimmer inlet.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9158925#post9158925 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by megaspoot
I'll aim the output towards the bubble trap, I need to do this because my skimmer skims more water than my overflow box will supply.
So long as your baffle or bubble trap maintains a constant water level, it is fine that your skimmer skims more water than your overflow box provides. Recirculating skimmers have a feature that processes the same volume of water more than once. Aquarists are willing to pay dearly for recirculating skimmers.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9158925#post9158925 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by megaspoot
I wanted to keep the return section small so that incase the overflow decided to die, there would not be enough water to cause a wet living room.
The water level of your return section, and not its size, will determine whether or not you will flood your living room should the overflow clog. You determine the water level in your return section based on how much water you add to your system. I recommend: (1) a water level sensor that shuts off your return pump before it runs dry, (2) a large return section so you will not need to keep replacing water that evaporates from your system.

I lose almost a gallon of water daily from evaporation. That loss is seen in the return section and nowhere else. My return section is the largest section and I also use it for water changes. I simply turn off my pump, siphon the return section, mix salt & water in the return section, heat it, and restart the pump.

megaspoot
02/04/2007, 06:44 PM
The skimmer should be in the same compartment as the overflow input in order to process the water before organic compounds have a chance to float to the surface beyond the reach of your skimmer inlet.

this is good to know, i've worried a lot because people say that i should put the output in a separate compartment.

The water level of your return section, and not its size, will determine whether or not you will flood your living room. You determine that water level is in your return section based on how much water you add to your system.

sorry, I'm a little confused by this. If I have a large return section, wont the pump pump all the water from this section into my tank if my overflow dies?

So basically everywhere other than the return section will maintain a constant water level right? and the water level in the return section will just drop with evaporation? I want a large refugium because I want to put some livestock in there that aren't compatible with my 2 puffers.


a water level sensor that shuts off your return pump before it runs dry

what kinf of water level sensors are there? I've heard float valves are ok but require maitenance. How would i wire these sensors to my return pump.

Does the check valve design look ok?

I was also wondering where in my plumbing shoud i put unions and valves. Do i need the around every componant that need maintenance? Also, how much do flexible PVC pipes cost and what kind of fittings will I need to attach them to standard PVC elbows etc.? Thanks so much!

megaspoot
02/04/2007, 09:27 PM
Anyone with any advice?

Rueg
02/04/2007, 09:46 PM
I have been running pressure rated external pumps outside of my sump by using PVC pipe. The pipe just goes up over the side of the sump wall so it is a very long U-shape. The PVC should be at least 1/2 inch bigger than the input on the pump so it can get as much water as it needs and not have to work so hard to get it. Put the PVC U-tube so the one side is all the way to the bottom in the sump and the other side is hooked up to the pump. Prime it (usually what I do is stick the end of the return in the sump and then place airline tubing up inside the PVC pipe as far up to the top (so it is in the PVC part that goes over the top of the sump) and suck out the air. I have never found a submersible pump that has been truely pressure rated. I didn't want to have to drill holes in the glass sump either.