Hooking up a Wavysea - need help :)

[stixx]

Hello - I am thinking about buying a Wavysea, but I dont fully understand how it gets hooked up. The pic below shows my overflow and return. Do I simply create a way to hook up my return to the Wavysea? So instead of the black nozzle, I would have a Wavysea as my return.

Is this all there is to it?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/jjfrehe04/DSC00166.jpg

[kodyboy]

yep, that is it, just hook up your return to the back of the wavy sea. I love my unit, works great and is much better than a seaswirl. If you really want ridiculous flow get the tunze stream attachment and attach a tunze stream + your return, yikes! I added a penductor to mine to increase the flow, works great.

[stixx]

Went ahead and made the purchase. I guess Ill just unscrew my current locline and replace with a 3/4" barb. Then run some flex tubing from the barb to the Wavysea.

[kodyboy]

that is what I did

[johns]

Do you have to use flex tubing to connect the return to the wavysea? or is hard plumbing into the wavy sea an option?

[stixx]

Do you have to use flex tubing to connect the return to the wavysea? or is hard plumbing into the wavy sea an option?
I am going to use flex.

[johns]

does anyone know if flex is the only option for the wavysea?

[stixx]

does anyone know if flex is the only option for the wavysea?
I think using PVC would be tough because the inlet adaptors they give you both are barbed.

[gabe3d]

That is one of my complaints about the wavysea. There is no direct way to attach PVC to the unit without going through flexible vynil tubing. A misleading thing about it as well is that in the videos you find on their website you see the black model with locline fittings attached to the outlet. You won't be able to do this unless if you buy a threaded reducing elbow in black (good luck finding that at home depot unless if you paint it), they give you one but it is not threaded. Overall the unit is well built though.

Gabe

[gabe3d]

By the way if you plan to attach the WavySea on the rim of your AGA tank, then you might need to buy the larger bracket. The one that comes with unit is very small and doesn't fit over mine, but i have a 210 AGA and it appears you have a smaller tank so it might not be as thick.

Gabe

[johns]

I have a euro-braced tank - I think it 1/2 inch thick. I'm hoping it's fit on that with the provided brackets.

[stixx]

Here's how I ended up hookinh up the Wavysea. Not sure its the best way, but it seems to work.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/jjfrehe04/DSC00167.jpg

[kodyboy]

again, that is basically what I did and it works well for me.

[ReeferAl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9376045#post9376045 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gabe3d
That is one of my complaints about the wavysea. There is no direct way to attach PVC to the unit without going through flexible vynil tubing.

I agree. It would not be a difficult thing for them to add a thread adapter in addition to the 1/2 and 3/4 barb adapters. I definitely wanted mine hard plumbed so I had to "DIY" an adapter. I bought a 1" threaded sch 80 union (actually 2 since I now have 2 Wavy Seas) and I modified 1 part of the union to match the size and thickness (more or less- mine is slightly thicker) of the adapters they provide. I had to make a device out of plumbing parts to be able to put the union piece onto the drill press so it could be spun. With the part spinning I sanded it down to the correct diameter. I then planed the flat side to a bit thicker than I needed and finished the job by sanding it smooth with a disc sander. It may be hard to picture, but unfortunately I didn't take any photos. It works great and didn't take all that long. It really is rediculous that they haven't come up with an adapter like that. BTW, if you decide to try this, not all brands of 1" unions will work. Some are more compact and the disc isn't quite larger enough.
Allen

[kodyboy]

why all the effort to avoid some flexible tubing? Seems a lot of work for zero gain to me.

[johns]

ReeferAl-
Any issues with these other than having to DIY the inlet?

Kodyboy-
I guess I just feel the flex tubing on a barb could leak or something. probably just paranoid. probably wouldn't let that stop me from buying it, but I'd prefer a threaded fitting.

More importantly, can anyone tell me approx how far down below the rim of the tank the oscillating outlet sits. I need to get an idea of what this would look like and how much of this will be visible below the canopy

[kodyboy]

now I understand

[3.99AfterTaxes]

I just hard plumbed directly to the Wavy Sea hose barb using a 3/4 reducer and lots of glue. So far, it's all been good. I doubt it'll ever be an issue as long as there's low pressure on the unit (no eductors and the like).

[ReeferAl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9383054#post9383054 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by johns
ReeferAl-
Any issues with these other than having to DIY the inlet?

No, so far they are great. I like the fact that they can rotate more than 90 deg. They also don't have the somewhat long pause at the end of their turn like the Sea Swirls (a minor issue). The only question in my mind is reliability. I have no reason to think they won't be reliable, they just haven't been out that long. The 2 SS I had worked for 3 years without any maintenance. Hopefully the WS's will last alot longer.

Allen

[johns]

Still looking for an answer to the following question:

More importantly, can anyone tell me approx how far down below the rim of the tank the oscillating outlet sits. I need to get an idea of what this would look like and how much of this will be visible below the canopy

Also, did you have to drill a siphon-break hole into this outlet to avoid a return siphon?

[stixx]

More importantly, can anyone tell me approx how far down below the rim of the tank the oscillating outlet sits. I need to get an idea of what this would look like and how much of this will be visible below the canopy
Approx 2-6" - its adjustable

[ReeferAl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9390104#post9390104 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by johns
Also, did you have to drill a siphon-break hole into this outlet to avoid a return siphon?

I did not, but the outlets are only about 2" below the water surface and they are partly exposed when the water level drops to the level of the bottom of the overflow screen so the will not back siphon more water.

If you put the outlet(s) lower then I would drill siphon break holes.

Allen

[johns]

Ohh, adjustable...neat. So they just slide up/down on an o-ring or something, like the adjustable positioning on a skimmer?

Sound like this might work well for me.

[johns]

Wait, let me double-check one thing please.

I just got done measuring in my tank. When you say 2" at the highest position, do you mean 2" below the rim of your tank, or 2" below your water level?

Sorry, I really need to understand this. Trying to be careful before spending the $$.