has anybody kept a carpet anemone under regular flourescent lights?

[hrdneglcry]

Has anybosy been able to keep a carpet anemone under regular lights? I mean not power compacts, not VHO, and not metal halides. If yes were you successful, and are you still doing it?

[cvrle1]

Maybe if you put few dozen of NO lights it might work, but then why would you want to waste that much money??

I had some mushrooms under 4 NO lights in my 33 and they were really close to the top, but I wouldn't even think about doing that to anemone, and I hope you aren't either :)

[phender]

Yes, BUT I used 5- 40 watt normal fluorescents over a 48" 50 gal tank. The carpet in question was a haddoni carpet and lived 5-7 years before I gave it away. The tank is only 16" deep. I used 2 actinics and 3 daylight lamps of different brands. I would not try it if the tank was deeper than 16" - 18".

I have also used two 48" shoplight fixtures (2 actinic + 2 daylight bulbs) over two 20 gal tanks set up end to end to keep haddoni carpets, but again the tanks were relatively shallow.

No, I am not doing it anymore. It was too difficult to access that tanks with that many bulbs over the top and there are much better options available now.

[hrdneglcry]

OK thanks. I know anemones are tricky business. I thought I could handle a carpet, and I could I think if I did as you did with the huge burst of many 40 watt, four foot bulbs. Thanks for the intel. I will not be trying it in case anybody is wondering. I wanted to find out the facts first.
What are NO lights?

[GSMguy]

not to be a jerk but why try it why not get lights that will help it live instead of getting lights that it may not be sufficent

im sure what phender did is rare and his water quality must have been impecable

[cvrle1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9376772#post9376772 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hrdneglcry
What are NO lights?

NO Lights = Normal Output lights = Regular fluorescent tubes.

There are HO(high output) and VHO (very high output) as well.

[rogart]

If it is your first anemone, try a bubble tip anemone, they are cheaper, easier and you'll be able to figure out their needs. Carpets typically die by about 1yr, unless you do everything right. BTA clones can also be purchased which seem to fair better in aquariums.

[cschweitzer]

Those 40W lights can be overdriven with an (I believe) IceCap flourescent ballast. For any anem, I would recommend something better than NO light, but if you're deadset on using them, buy the ballast and overdrive the bulbs(I think to 70W?? Anyone with more info, please chime in) Replacement within time standards is very important also.

[zoomfish1]

Don't try any anemone under those lights. (Responding to rogart's post). Even though BTA's are among the easiest to keep, they still have high intensity light requirements.

Just nix the nem idea till you upgrade lights. That's the best advice you'll get.

[tpdpercula]

Back in the begining I used NO bulbs and didnot have any luck w/ them. Eventually I purchased VHO & MH and it makes a world of difference. Now they (RBTA, GBTA) wont stop splitting, and the carpet is super happy and growing.

[marc price]

yes , six 32watt zoomed t8's over 18"wide x @16" deep/sand aquarium . the drab colored s. haddoni's should do alright . they will spread out to get more light as they do in the wild in deeper water . ref. the 3rd pic. p. 55 in j. sprung's Invertebrates A Quick Reference Guide . stay away from the blue color morphs , they're collected in shallow water . same may be true for the bright neon greens . under lower lighting feed them about every 10 days to twice a week .

[Slakker]

Still not a great idea though, Marc...it's a lot easier to get them what they need to thrive as opposed to rolling the dice on an iffy setup.

[rogart]

I do not recommend NO light tanks for anemones. I have unfortunately killed more anemones in my experience than I am comfortable with, and do not plan to buy a wild caught anemone from a LFS. I have bartered some sick anemones out of stores for $5-10 and recovered two, but not with NO flourescents.

The tank I spoke of was a trial. I finally found a low light accepting 3rd gen clone BTA 2yrs ago. I supplement the health by over feeding a bit. The goal: create a bunch of NO capable clones to share and split, my one oyster I am trying to throw back into the ocean. I am still trying to understand the best way to split them. I have some little clones I might try cutting this summer.

In short go with better lights, you get better health, color and you can add other cool stuff. NO light only supports some of the dullest softies. My other tank has MH!

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/100761IMG14662.JPG

[GSMguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9405562#post9405562 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by marc price
yes , six 32watt zoomed t8's over 18"wide x @16" deep/sand aquarium . the drab colored s. haddoni's should do alright . they will spread out to get more light as they do in the wild in deeper water . ref. the 3rd pic. p. 55 in j. sprung's Invertebrates A Quick Reference Guide . stay away from the blue color morphs , they're collected in shallow water . same may be true for the bright neon greens . under lower lighting feed them about every 10 days to twice a week .
i dont think you can just generalize like that we dont know where anemones came from

[hrdneglcry]

I just wanted a carpet. I see now that proper lighting, and preferably a larger tank are needed to support this animal. Probably metal halides with pristine water conditions. Maybe some day.

[marc price]

You're success and the animals are always going to be better with more light output but in some situations and settings it can and has been done with long term success .

I had wanted to do something different . My goals where to use less electricity and maintain low levels of ambient and radiant heat in and around the aquarium . I researched light dispersion , lux/lum output for all bulb options ( h.i.d.'s , ho ,vho etc. etc. ) and reflective materials . Lookong beyond the pet industry to lighting manufactures such as osram , ge and others for info.

My aquarium is opened topped in a bright room , receiving direct sunlight for a few months of the year . If an animal is showing sings of stress I can reflect sunlight to the tank via a large cosmetic counter type makeup mirror , giving me time to correct the problem .

i was an early adopter of ho t5's , the change was an improvement upon t8's while keeping with the plan . I'm satisfied with the t5's but may look into led's in the future .