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View Full Version : DIY 6" PVC NW Skimmer Build pics


lakee911
03/03/2007, 11:47 AM
I want to share some pictures of my skimmer build that is in progress. I had some of these pictures in another thread, but the subject was all wrong. I kind of hijacked my own thread. :lol: I know everyone and their mom has a DIY PVC skimmer but I still wanted to share.

I'm loosely following RandyStacyE's design here: http://randystacye.com/diy_needle_wheel_skimmer.htm


<A HREF=http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0761.JPG><IMG SRC=http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0761_thumb.jpg></A> <A HREF=http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0763.JPG><IMG SRC=http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0763_thumb.jpg></A> <A HREF=http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0764.JPG><IMG SRC=http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0764_thumb.jpg></A> <A HREF=http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0769.JPG><IMG SRC=http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0769_thumb.jpg></A> <A HREF=http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0765.JPG><IMG SRC=http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0765_thumb.jpg></A> <A HREF=http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0768.JPG><IMG SRC=http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0768_thumb.jpg></A>
Click any picture for a bigger view.

I'm planning on using a Gen-X 4100 NW pump from Addictive Aquatics on this. I ordered it last tueday, and when it arrived on Wednesday, they accidentally sent a Gen-X 2400 NW. I called them and they sent out another pump. I had it on Friday. This time they sent out a Gen-X 4100 (not NW) pump. I called them and they said there wasn't anything they can do until Monday. :( They would send me just the needlewheel on Monday. So, I decided to use the venturi from the 2400 on the 4100 just to play around. Well, the new 4100 pump leaks like a sieve! It wasn't properly assembled and is defective. Called them and they'll send me new Gen-X 4100 NW pump on Monday. Addictive Aquatics really has good customer service. For my inconvienence, they've given me a discount on any purchase for the next 90 days. :)


The reaction chanber, to the top of the union on the dome measures 42" and the overall height is 52".

I bought the PVC (10ft stick) at bLowes for $20. It's 6" cell core, so it was pretty cheap compared to solid PVC. Should be fine. The uniseals and bulkheads all came from Savko.

I used the rubber cap for the bottom, but I do not like it. In my opinion, it wobbles too much. In fact, once I connect the pump, it is so heavy it wants to fall over. :( I was thinking of using a clean out fitting on the bottom and turning the cap inside out and then gluing that to a piece of acrlic w/ a hole for the screw cap. I might see how it performs before I go through that trouble.

In the mean time, if I can find some 6" split ring pipe hangers, I might use those to attach it to the side of stand for support. It will be plumbed into the overflow, but I don't want to put a lot of stress on that holding it up. I'll have to figure out something.

I plan on using a riser pipe and a gate valve for the effluent. The riser pipe won't be adjustable, but the gate valve will let me raise the water column higher if I need to. I want to minimize the amount of water draining into my sump when the power goes out, so I may have to experiment with the height of the riser pipe.

I'll post more pictures as I get more done. I plan on putting my carbon chamber/muffler on top of the vent for the effluent riser pipe and connecting the needlewheel air intake to the riser pipe as well. I'm hoping this will give me clean air and quiet any noise.

Any comments, questions, concerns?

t-bone2
03/03/2007, 11:55 AM
sweet

lakee911
03/03/2007, 04:52 PM
Anyone have a good way to secure my effluent riser pipe to the skimmer body? It needs to look nice and not wobble.

I thought of maybe making a fish-mouthed stretcher that I could solvent weld to the pipes, but that's pretty permanent. Any other ideas?

<a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/skimmer%20gusset.jpg" title="skimmer gusset.jpg"> <img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/skimmer%20gusset_thumb.jpg" alt="skimmer gusset.jpg" /> </a

draleigh
03/03/2007, 07:56 PM
what are you using for the collection cup?

BruiseAndy
03/03/2007, 09:20 PM
Use a 6" pvc pipe saddle and glue a length of pvc into it.

lakee911
03/03/2007, 10:34 PM
http://lntca.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pG01-1327193dt.jpg

It's not what I intitially intended to use, and it's made of polycarbonate, but its worked out well. I got a piece of 2" PVC stuck in the union in the cup, and in pulling it out it went flying across the basement. Didn't crack. $13.99 @ Bed Bath and Beyond.

6" PVC pipe saddle would be HUGE, no? More I think of it, I like those little gussets. Too bad I don't have a spindal sander though to make 'em neat. I made a template to cut some out tomorrow. See how it goes...

BruiseAndy
03/03/2007, 10:42 PM
I was thinking 6"x1/2" and attatch to a 1/2" pipe

lakee911
03/04/2007, 12:24 PM
I have never heard of a 6" x 1/2" saddle. Do you have a link to one or a picture?

I've gone ahead made the gusset though. It's glued up and drying. I've also included a pic of the bung with a fitting for the autowaste container.

<a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0773.JPG" title="DSCN0773.JPG"> <img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0773_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0773.JPG" /> </a> <a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0772.JPG" title="DSCN0772.JPG"> <img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0772_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0772.JPG" /> </a> <a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0771.JPG" title="DSCN0771.JPG"> <img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0771_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0771.JPG" /> </a>
Click for a bigger pic.

Jason

RandyStacyE
03/04/2007, 02:55 PM
How did you use to cut the radius on in the acrylic? NICE!

RandyStacyE
03/04/2007, 03:25 PM
What you made looks like it would work just fine .... but ... this might be stronger. Definitely harder to make too, at least for me it would.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l111/randystacye/SHART/standpipeholder.jpg

BeanAnimal
03/04/2007, 03:28 PM
Lakee I used 3/4 MDF and attached long velcro straps to it. Mine is fishmouth on one side (the skimmer side) and corner filleted on the other side to accept the effluent and feed plumbing. All (3) concave surfaces have velcro strapping epoxied into the radius. I simply strap the tubes in place. I made (3) for my skimmers 6' height but only use (2) of them.

My cup holds over a gallon, so I did not bother with a waste drain. The skimmer needs cleaned (if I want it to run at max efficiency) long before the cup fills.

lakee911
03/04/2007, 04:16 PM
Randy, I free handed the radiuses. I made me a template in a CAD program and traced it on the acrylic sheet. When I was in college, I was on a race team and we built a new car each year. I primarily worked on assembling the tubular space frame. lots of fishmouthing and welding. Using the acrylic and dremel took all of maybe 10 minutes.

The bracket posted would be a lot stronger, but I didn't plan ahead to use that. If I make another, it would be nice to get that CNC/laser/waterjet cut and slide it right in. It be some time to free hand that!

Bean, can you show us a pic of this velcro bussiness? I kind of get the idear, but not sure. Sounds like a good idea.

The skimmer would need to be cleaned long before it filled up, but I usually just wipe mine out w/ a papertowel and keep on truckin. I dunno, I might just stick a riser tube in it or something. I still need a vent in the cup. Hmm....should have put it on the side I guess. My old auto waste container was almost as large as my new collection cup. :) Heh

My skimmer is just barelly balanced when empty and the pump is mounted. When it's filled will it be more stable? Do I need a bracket under the pump to support it?

Thx

lakee911
03/04/2007, 07:16 PM
Well, I'm done with it. :) <a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0774.JPG" title="DSCN0774.JPG"> <img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0774_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0774.JPG" /> </a>

Tomorrow, I'm gonna put a T on the overflow and a ball valve to feed the skimmer.

Tuesday hopefully my pump will be in and I can plug the influent, close the effluent and do a leak test w/ some tank water and skimmate from old skimmer. Should help get it slimed up some too.

Wednesday I should be able to put it into service. :) Can't wait!

RandyStacyE
03/04/2007, 07:32 PM
I'm definitely curious to see how well this skimmer works! I always wondered if a real tall version would skim well.

I have a little 4" version almost completely finished, just waiting on my pump too.

draleigh
03/04/2007, 07:56 PM
what is your plumbing size for the influent and effluent. Great DIY, i looked at building on like this when i saw RandySatcyE's but haven't yet. Been busy with all the other DIY stuff. Looks great. Looking forward to see how well it works. BTW, are you going to mesh mod the pump or just run it with the needle wheel?

cougarguy
03/04/2007, 10:08 PM
I made a bracket that bolts together so I could take my stand pipe off if I ever needed.

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/9623/standpipebracketrb1.th.png (http://img410.imageshack.us/my.php?image=standpipebracketrb1.png)

The piece with 2 holes slips around the stand pipe and the other piece glues to the skimmer and I just bolt them together.

That is a really nice skimmer I wish I had enough room for one that big.

BeanAnimal
03/04/2007, 10:12 PM
I just use velcro :)

lakee911
03/05/2007, 05:03 AM
Dra, influent is 3/4" and effluent is 1". It may be on the small side, but I don't plan on running a huge amount of flow through it. For the time being, I will run the stock nw and venturi. I'll try something new later.

Cougar, how did you make that?

Do I need a drain on this thing? Suppose I wanted to swap out my pump, the only think I can think of is to put my venturi hose in a bucket and wait forever... What'd you all do?

Thx
Jason

RandyStacyE
03/05/2007, 09:20 AM
You could go with another Uniseal, shove in a pipe and use a valve. You could drill, tap some threads, screw in a fitting and a valve.

Well I was going to list a pic showing how ER does it, but it would appear that they have removed just about all of their product pics!

Not to ramble, but do they actually expect to gain more business by removing their pics? I personally believe they’re afraid of us DIYers and don’t want us getting any ideas :)

lakee911
03/05/2007, 10:02 AM
I'd like to use maybe a 3/8" MNPT x 3/8" JG valve since it wouldn't take up much space. Actually, I could tap it and put in a plug. Would be much like changing the oil in the car. :) I don't have a 3/8" NPT tap though. :( I'm also concerned about tapping the cellular core PVC. Might not work out well. What do you think?

Jason

RandyStacyE
03/05/2007, 11:51 AM
I've done it before, but I was concerned a bit too so I applied some PVC glue to the threads and quickly screwed it in :) Better than thread tape just not as forgiving as thread tape. That's a permanent fix though. You could glue and screw in a fitting, then cap or plug that fitting.

Here's a silly idea ... you could drill, thread and screw in a barbed 90. Then run a clear vinyl hose straight up the side of the skimmer to act as a 'sight glass' and a drain. When/if you want to drain the skimmer, just take the hose down and aim it where you want to drain it.

Funky? Maybe, but many like to know where the water level is in their skimmers and a sight glass like that would definitely kill 2 birds with one stone. Just a thought. You can even take Bean up on his velcro idea to secure the hose.

I'm thinking about buying a set lof pipe taps like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42432

lakee911
03/05/2007, 02:35 PM
That's a pretty good idea. Skimmer sight glass.

If they're from harbor freight, I'd be scared they'd break off in the PVC! :lol:

One thing I've done, and didn't think of, is wrap a fitting with teflon tape, couple rounds, then apply glue and quickly screw it in. The glue seals up and strengthens the hole and then the teflon tape allows it to come out later.

RandyStacyE
03/05/2007, 05:02 PM
That could work!

cougarguy
03/05/2007, 05:17 PM
For my brackets:

The stand pipe bracket
1: measured how far my stand pipe was from the body
2: then I drilled the holes ( 1 3/8 stand pipe, 5/16 for the bolt)
3: then just smoothed them out on my drum sander/and belt sander
4: finish routed the edge 1/8 round over

The block for the body

1: cut the triangle
2: drilled bolt hole
3: drum sanded the round profiles


I had a bunch of scrap left over from cutting out my flanges and was just playing around and I actually liked the results so I kept it.

I would agree with RandyStacyE on doing the tube along the side of the skimmer but I would use a swivel 90* so you could easily spin it to drain it.

lakee911
03/05/2007, 07:21 PM
Oh, they bolt together...ha! I looked at the pic and thought, ya that's the same as Randy's, but it's not. Neat.

Got my overflow tee'd off tonight--that's a "T," not ticked off. :lol: I thought I was smart when I put that union under my overflow box. I'm thinkin' that I'd just open it up and pull the pipe out, cut it, insert the tee and put it back. Uhmm no.

Was reallym hard to undo the union in 5" of space. Then I couldn't get the nut off the overflow bulkhead. :( Besides, the union wouldn't have fit through the overflow box, nor would have the tee. So, here I am, sawing away and gluing behind the tank. :( It worked out though. :)

I discovered that with teflon tape on the union threads, I can get them together and apart much better. Almost acts like some lube.


Swivel 90: http://www.rotarysystems.com/001.htm Cool.

Rulz1234
03/05/2007, 08:14 PM
i agree with the velcro comment ..... just as easy :P and its not like pvc skimmers are that pretty to begin with :D

only thing i would have done different would be to add a acrylic viewing panel to the main section so that you can see the bubble density in the skimmer to also allow you to see when the skimmer is on the blink and narrow down the reasons why.

BeanAnimal
03/05/2007, 10:16 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9396600#post9396600 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lakee911
Dra, influent is 3/4" and effluent is 1". It may be on the small side, but I don't plan on running a huge amount of flow through it. For the time being, I will run the stock nw and venturi. I'll try something new later.

Cougar, how did you make that?

Do I need a drain on this thing? Suppose I wanted to swap out my pump, the only think I can think of is to put my venturi hose in a bucket and wait forever... What'd you all do?

Thx
Jason

I used a gate valve and a quick connect (cam lock) fitting (aquatic eco has them). I put the male end on the skimmer and one female end on a small mag pump... another female end on a 20' drain hose. I can drain or pump water from the skimmer when needed. I can also use it to do water changes without messing around with the tank or sump... just drain the skimmer to a preset level and fill it back up with new water.

BeanAnimal
03/05/2007, 10:17 PM
You can use silicone lubricant on the threads... it will help a lot.

lakee911
03/06/2007, 05:23 AM
I've got a union that's leaking. Rigged up a tupperware lid for it to drip on and run back into the sump. *sigh*

lakee911
03/07/2007, 11:01 AM
So, my pump did not come last night like I expected. :(

In the mean time, I've been thinking about a wetneck design. I know, first I've got to find out if this skimmer-monster even works. Assuming it does, I was thinking that I could use 2-1/2" ID acrylic tube to make the wetneck resevour. I'd use acrylic, because to my knowledge, there is no PVC with 2-1/2" ID.

The 2" PVC riser is 2-3/8" OD and I would sand and polish the edge so the water would cascade down the insides. The two tubes would have a 1/16" gap which would then be filled with tank or sump water (tee off of somewhere).

I would somehow need to seal the bottom of the resevour to the PVC. Not sure of the best approach there. Food for thought...

Jason

lakee911
03/07/2007, 07:19 PM
Well, my skimmer was supposed to leak test yesterday and go into service today. Still waiting on the freakin' pump! Grr. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1065644

I'm ordering an Ocean Runner 3700 pump tomorrow from Premium Aquatics. It should get in on Fri. Will be nice to compare the two pumps. More than likely the pile of Gen-X pumps will just go back to the store...

draleigh
03/08/2007, 06:45 AM
Curious, how big of a tank are you running this on? The 120 you listed in your sig, or is it a bigger one? That really sucks about the pump. I'm still hanging on to this thread to see how this performs. Good luck

lakee911
03/08/2007, 11:30 AM
Hiya, ya the 120G is what this is going on. Do you think its oversized? :lol: In my next house, I would like a bigger tank--300Gal or so. I wanted something that could work for that too.

I actually haven't ordered the OR3700 pump yet...maybe I should do that now....

Jason

draleigh
03/08/2007, 12:30 PM
if it works well then it's just the right size :)

I am thinking about building one like this for my 180. I have the sump in the basement so i have lots of room. i notice you are in C-Bus also.... I live out on the east side (Pickerington) Keeping an eye, waiting for you to fire this thing up.

RandyStacyE
03/08/2007, 12:35 PM
Have you considered the OTP3000 instead of the OR? I've never used the OTP pumps, but I'm REAL curious about them.

Right now I'm building a small 4" skimmer for a small tank of my wifes' and I ended up using the GX-1500 because I didn't want to figure out how to plumb the OTP1000. None of the vendors could tell me what threads are on the 1000.

draleigh
03/08/2007, 01:40 PM
The OTP 3000 is a bit under powered then the Gen-X4100
OTP 3000 - 750 gph $54.99
GEN-X 4100 - 1085 gph $54.99
OR3500 900 gph $63.95

What makes you think the OR is gonna perform better. I think i would find another source for the Gen-X myself. But i am looking forward to seeing what you end up with and the performance.

lakee911
03/08/2007, 07:33 PM
Well, I got the Gen-X 4100 in today. I fired it up and the thing is loud--get out your ear plugs (ok not that bad). I want to try the OR since I've heard it's a quieter motor/pump.

I used the venturi from the 2400 since it was here. The supplied venturi with the 4100 was not conducive to mounting in a pipe. :( When I was filling it, I fired it up. Boy was the venturi loud, then about 6inches from the top the venturi stopped sucking. :(

So, I went to bLowes and made my own:
<a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0777.JPG" title="DSCN0777.JPG"> <img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0777_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0777.JPG" /> </a> <a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0776.JPG" title="DSCN0776.JPG"> <img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0776_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0776.JPG" /> </a> and I fired it up with that. It didn't do as well as I thought, the bubbles were HUGE--from what I could tell at the top of the skimmer. Is it possible that it's drawing too much air? I thought I'd post a note here before I decided to experiment furthur.

It's a 1" F slip x 3/4" M NPT threaded adapter which I drilled a hole into and shoved a piece of BIC pen tube into. Then I shoved a small piece of a 3/4" M slip x 1/2" F NPT hex bushing just beyond that for my restriction. Plumbed it up and it wasn't as loud and it drew air when it was filled, but from what I could tell from the top, the bubbles were 1/4" in size! :( By the way, you can not solvent weld a BIC pen. :(

Should I restrict the air?

Thx
Jason

lakee911
03/08/2007, 07:36 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9426988#post9426988 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by draleigh
if it works well then it's just the right size :)

I am thinking about building one like this for my 180. I have the sump in the basement so i have lots of room. i notice you are in C-Bus also.... I live out on the east side (Pickerington) Keeping an eye, waiting for you to fire this thing up.

Howdy, neighbor! My girlfriend is from Pickerington, so I get out there occasionally when we visit her folks and what not.

This is going a lot slower than I'd hoped, but if it works well, copy all you want, :)

Jason

draleigh
03/08/2007, 07:50 PM
sounds like you are running in to one problem after another with this project. i hate when that happens. Noise isn't that big of an issue for me since it will be in the basement and my return pump sounds like a small turbine engine already. Did i see on another posting that you ordered the OR3500?? Interested to see how the other pump works. Sounds like the Gen-X are one of those you get what you pay for things. Maybe i will get order a Sedra when i get the $$ together. I did some test today, ammonia spiked and is coming down, nitrite up. Cycle is getting there....woohoo. started the cycle about 2 weeks ago.

lakee911
03/08/2007, 07:57 PM
Ya, maybe it's a sign. If it doesn't work out, I'll just give it to you. :lol: But then I wouldn't have a skimmer :( Would be back to the AquaC ... Eeek!

Yup, OR 3500 NW (3700) be in tomorrow. Need to get the venturi workin' first though.

draleigh
03/08/2007, 08:10 PM
there is another guy making one of these, he used a mag7 with some mesh sheeting and got his going. i am sure the other pump will work for you.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1063539

RandyStacyE
03/08/2007, 08:16 PM
I have a feeling that this problem is due to the recirc pump being mounted so low. Even with the biggest recirc skimmers I've seen I believe the recirc pumps are mounted about 1/2 way up the reaction chamber. Maybe that's just a coincidence, but I don't think so.

Just a suggestion ... I'd chop the bottom of the reaction chamber off, remove all of the lower plumbing and Uniseals. I don’t think shortening this skimmer would affect anything as far as performance goes. I would then reinstall the Uniseals, but install the recirc pump higher up the reaction chamber this time. This should solve the problem with the pump.

lakee911
03/08/2007, 08:42 PM
Dra, I don't want to mod the impeller yet. Can't be changing too many variables all at once. I do like his base with the coupling and cap on the bottom!

It could be a little low, but I'm not gonna start hacking on it just yet! :) So, you think the bubbles could be rising and joining together maybe? I'm gonna tinker with the venturi that I built and see if I can get it to work better. I'm gonna put a valve on it and see if I can cut down on the air too. I did notice that other link had the pump higher. I can always use a riser pipe inside the skimmer.

I'll have more time this weekend, so I'll keep ya'll posted! Gonna go play with it inna bucket :)

Thanks
Jason

lakee911
03/08/2007, 09:31 PM
You can not skim Freshwater!

I did my testing with freshwater. For whatever reason, you can not make as many bubbles in freshmwater. I placed the pump in a clear bucket. String of bubbles up to the surface. Dumped in enough salt to get to 1.025 or so. Immediately got cloudy and didn't clear until about 90 seconds after I removed power to the pump. For some reason, saltwater works better.

Poured my cup of old skimmate into the skimmer. Filled it with chlorinated water and new salt. Fired it up. Snapped a picture after about 5 minutes of skimming. Just took a SWAG on the water level--actually don't know it.

w00t! w00t! I'm pumped! Swap out the pump tomorrow and maybe put it into service tomorrow or Saturday!:rollface:

<a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0778.JPG" title="DSCN0778.JPG"> <img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0778_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0778.JPG" /> </a>

I'll snap another picture either in the morning, or most likely in the afternoon after it has run for some time.

lakee911
03/09/2007, 05:12 AM
Woke up this morning and no foam. :( Water level was a bit low, so I added some and it started foaming a little. Not sure why it quiet. Too much turbulence?

draleigh
03/09/2007, 06:44 AM
so what pump /impeller do you have on there now. Did you get the GenX finally with the NW?

I was all set to start working on building one this weekend, then i got the propane tank filled for the house and there went all the TANK money i had set aside......:( Oh well looks like winter is almost over and i am still cycling anyway so no biggy

lakee911
03/09/2007, 08:03 AM
I have the Gen-X 4100 NW with my custom venturi, as shown above.

You don't need heat! Put on a jacket. :) It's getting to be good heat pump weather here soon. I need to get my system converted at some point. I've got a heat pump, but only using it for A/C at this time. Saves big in Spring/Fall.

I was out at a water plant yesterday. Maintenance Guy mentioned that they get their 2000Gallon Propane tank filled twice weekly! How's that for pricey?

Pbrown3701
03/09/2007, 09:07 AM
lakee - glad you figured out the freshwater thing....i wonder how many DIY skimmers have been thrown away because the testing didn't work using freshwater. I did this same thing about 6 months ago.....anyway.

When you say you woke up this morning and there was no foam....what do you mean? It wasn't skimming? If not, it could be that the chlorine in the water you added yesterday broke down the skimmate.

Another possibility - when skimming in a bucket, as you skim some of the water out, the water level drops in the bucket and thus, the pressure on the pump changes. This will cause the water level in the skimmer to fall. Just an idea. It also may just not be broken in yet...

draleigh
03/09/2007, 09:47 AM
If you are just looking for a bit of foam you can also drop in an egg shell. I did that to test the first skimmer i made to see if it was working (in salt water of course), and in a test environment.

2000 gallons' of propane a - twice a week. Better then then me.

lakee911
03/09/2007, 10:45 AM
I'm sure lots of people have made that mistake, Pbrown. I've seen some nice bubbles on big skimmers using freshwater, so if they put saltwater....holy moly!

What I mean by no foam, was the column that I showed last night was gone. It was just churning water down in the skimmer. Like I mentioned, water was low and with it pulling in the air we'd certainly get some evap. Some skimmate loss too. I think I'm on the right track though.

I think I'm going to change the orientation of the pump discharge. You can see it in the pics I posted earlier and I'll try to aim sideways a little more to see if that'll cut down on the turbulence. Maybe help with foam?

What's this egg shell business do? Dissolve? Does the shell have a lot of protiens?

Thx!

lakee911
03/09/2007, 11:03 AM
As for the chlorine, it should help it skim, right? It's an oxidizing agent just like ozone, no?

pvtschultz
03/09/2007, 12:20 PM
It really isn't going to foam well because there is nothing to build up the bubble surface tension, ie organics. If the water is fresh and clean, then you'll just have a bubbly surface, but no appreciable foam on top. Add some vinegar (haven't actually tried this myself though) and you should see some foam.

The chlorine will blow off after about 4-8 hours of aeration so it is gone by now.

draleigh
03/09/2007, 12:33 PM
The egg shell was one i read on the forum here. Has protien in it, causes the thing to foam goop like crazy for a couple minutes. Of course you are re-circ so you may want to stir the shell in the water for a little while then dump it in the column. Just an idea. I know it caused mine to foam up good for about 5-10 minutes. Then it went back down to a small head of foam.

RandyStacyE
03/09/2007, 02:42 PM
This skimmer will skim like MAD when it has some flow through from your aquarium system.

I originally tested my skimmer in a tote of water change water. The skimmer went nuts for a while then it eventually died down. The point is ... it skimmed all of the water and there wasn't much else left to skim. I dumped the skimmate back into the water and within an hour all of the skimmate was back in the collection cup!

lakee911
03/09/2007, 08:16 PM
Got the OR3700 in this afternoon. I ran it in a bucket and it made little noise--much better than the Gen-X.

Here's the scoop. It came with the metric union on the discharge and metric or maybe straight 1" NPT on the suction. :eek: What was Luke at PremiuimAquatics.com thinking? .:confused: :

As for the suction, I used a 1" steel NPT cap and threaded it up and down the suction piece a little more each time. It wore the threads down enough that it now seals in a sch40 fitting w/ some teflon tape.

Went to an Ace that specializes in wierd plumbing fittings to see if they could match the union. I said 'Do you have a union that will match this?' One look at it 'Nope.' 'Can you try?' 'No, I don't.' 'Can you order one?' 'No.' 'Ok, thanks for your help, &%$%$' (Ok I didn't say that word). :lol:

Went home and chopped off the union. Broke out the dremel w/ a sanding drum and grinded out the fitting in the discharge. Insert 3/4" PVC and slap on a new American :loL union and good to go. :)

Waiting on my epoxy to dry for the new venturi and we'll be good to go again. I'll post pics tomorrow. Getting ready to head out to do some snow boarding in this 50degree weather that we got going on! :)

cougarguy
03/09/2007, 10:09 PM
I agree with RandyStacyhE I tested mine in a 100 gal rubbermaid with water change water in it and no feed pump and it quit skimming over night.

Well it has been on my tank for over 2 weeks now and from day 1 it was pulling off half a cup of dark skimmate everyday.

lakee911
03/10/2007, 02:22 PM
Well, I put the skimmer into service today. Plumbed it up this morning. The pump is quiet, but the venturi is really loud! The little muffler that I built just won't cut it. I'll have to build a silencer.

Unfortunately, the camera batteries are dead. :( I'll get some this afternoon and snap a picture or two. I hope it does well... I'm sick of this project already. :lol:

I'm concerned about venting the collection cup. What's the best way and spot to do it?


Thx,
Jason

Joshsmit56001
03/10/2007, 06:36 PM
Has anyone ever did the egg trick in their actual tank? I think my bioload is too small for my DIY skimmer so I don't get as foam head so I wanted to try this egg idea if it is safe.

RandyStacyE
03/10/2007, 08:15 PM
You would want to vent the cup likely through the lid. I think I drilled 4 small holes.

If you notice with most skimmer collection cups, they have a like a rim attached to the underside of the lid. When the foam comes up out of the riser, hits the lid and the rim makes the foam go down into the cup. If you don't have a rim like that (I don't) then you would want the holes near the outer perimeter of the lid or some foam can come out of the holes.

Reef_bones
03/10/2007, 08:42 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9446152#post9446152 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RandyStacyE
You would want to vent the cup likely through the lid. I think I drilled 4 small holes.

If you notice with most skimmer collection cups, they have a like a rim attached to the underside of the lid. When the foam comes up out of the riser, hits the lid and the rim makes the foam go down into the cup. If you don't have a rim like that (I don't) then you would want the holes near the outer perimeter of the lid or some foam can come out of the holes.

This is true.. I am drilling a new lid because of this.. About an 1" from the edge would be good..

RandyStacyE
03/10/2007, 09:17 PM
I drilled mine as close to the outer perimeter as possible and I still get green crap on the underside of the display tank :)

pvtschultz
03/10/2007, 10:13 PM
Okay, call me ignorant (or dumb) but where are you guys setting the water level to in your skimmers? I was going to build a Randy skimmer but use an acrylic tube for the body so I can see what is going on inside, but now I am thinking very cheap and PVC is the way to go. Are you guys just setting the water level to the bottom of the acrylic riser tube or just guessing? Have to ask...

RandyStacyE
03/10/2007, 10:42 PM
The actual 'water level' isn't the concern. I just watch the top of the head of foam which comes up through the clear riser in the collection cup. If you raise the 'water level' the head of foam of course rises with it. We're just watching the foam.

lakee911
03/11/2007, 07:20 PM
Well, I ran it for a few days. Due to the hydraulics of my plumbing, I did not have enough head from the overflow box to raise the water to a suffecient level in the skimmer. :( I ended up having to Herbie style it by closing off valves in the sump somewhat. This still wasn't good enough. Since this worried me, so I decided I'm going to have to cut off the bottom of the skimmer! I'm gonna probbly cut off 6in on the bottom, or so. I need to make sure that I can still get the discharge into the sump though by gravity. Stupid project, stupid skimmer, man sometimes I swear.... ;)

Jason

draleigh
03/12/2007, 07:11 AM
why not just run the genx to the skimmer from the sump, or are you trying to not run another pump? Lucky me i think i should be fine with this since my water is falling down from the 1st floor to the basement i should be able to run mine with my overflow....if i ever get the time to built it.

lakee911
03/12/2007, 10:50 AM
I thought of that, but I don't want another pump. My electric bill is 2x what it used to be. :(

draleigh
03/13/2007, 12:36 PM
i was at lowes today and i didn't see the rubber cap for the bottom or the 6"--> 2" drain fitting. Maybe i was looking in the wrong section, or maybe the lowes in Dublin on sawmill just BLOWES...:) Did you get those parts at Lowes or HD?

draleigh
03/13/2007, 12:44 PM
by the way, any pics of it setup and running?

RandyStacyE
03/13/2007, 03:52 PM
Here's the sticker that came from mine. The customer service person should be able to tell you for sure if they have it or can get it for you.
http://randystacye.com/images/diyneedleskimmer/floordrain03.JPG
http://randystacye.com/images/diyneedleskimmer/bell2.JPG

Reef_bones
03/13/2007, 04:01 PM
I found mine at home depot on the isle with the PVC pipe fittings. It was on the bottom shelf bellow the gatevalves and a few flanges...

draleigh
03/13/2007, 06:46 PM
Cool thanks, i think i will try HD tomorrow. Did you get the rubber cap there also or did you get that someone else?

adnup
03/13/2007, 07:33 PM
Are these hole sizes correct? 1/2" & 3/4" BOTH use a 1-1/4" hole?

UNISEAL® Instillation Chart
PVC Pipe Hole Saw Size
1/2" - 1-1/4"
3/4" - 1-1/4"
1" - 1-3/4"
1 1/4" - 2"
1 1/2" - 2-1/2"
2" - 3"
3" - 4"
4" - 5"


Thanks

draleigh
03/14/2007, 07:24 AM
Yes that is correct
http://www.uniseal.co.nz/

lakee911
03/14/2007, 07:56 AM
No pics yet of awesome skimmate. I got it modified and hooked it up again last night, but then for whatever reason the pump wouldn't turn when I plugged it in. :( So, I had to drain it and I've just not opened it up again yet to see what's up. I wish I had isolation valves around my pump (but then it would stick out WAY too far).

Jason

RandyStacyE
03/14/2007, 09:19 AM
Is your pump making a humming sound when you plug it in? I've had the Resun pumps do that especiall when they are new. If you were to give the impeller a slight turn it kicks right in. Not convenient at all, but this seems to stop happening once the pump is broken in.

On a smaller scale (smaller skimmer), I had a similar problem. I plugged in the GX-1500 pump and nada. I unplugged it and plugged it back in ... nada just a slight hum. At one point I blew into the air line and BOOM it fired right up.

Make sure that the volute on your recirc pump isn't in a bind, in other words it should be installed in a relazed position without any of the plumbing pulling on it.

I'm sure you know that the higher you have the recirc pump the better. This picture shows how you can make your recirc work better yet allow it to function like you want it to ... you want it to draw water from down LOW and increase the 'dwell time' by giving the bubbles a long journey to the top.

It sounds like a crappy thing to have to do (removing your uniseals and reinstalling them higher) but it's just a thought.
http://www.euro-reef.com/images/RC250/RC250-REV-2.0-500x752.jpg

lakee911
03/14/2007, 12:02 PM
Yes, it's humming when I plug it in. I blew in the venturi too. I suspect I've got plumbing pulling slightly on the volute. First time I drilled the pipe for the uniseal and the fit the plumbing up to that and marked it and glued it. This second time I had to eyeball the plumbing on the pump to drill the uniseal. Was just a smigen off...of course it was fine before I filled it with tank water. Murphy. Might have to redo fittings on the pump. My new venturi is kickbum so I'll probably grind out the PVC fittings to reuse it if I decide to plumb. Dunno.

I don't see why having the pump higher is better. Not only would it be more top heavy, but it would cause more turbulence up top where it should be calm. I'm pulling in low within' half an inch of the bottom. I think mine will be fine low and like I said the more head I get above the pump, the quieter it gets.

I broke that bracket off that I showed you--the gusset. It broke the acrylic near the seam on the riser pipe. I glued it again, but acrylic to acrylic gluing with PVC solvent just doesn't work well. I really like the bracket in that pic above though.

Jason

adnup
03/14/2007, 12:48 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9467484#post9467484 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RandyStacyE
Here's the sticker that came from mine. The customer service person should be able to tell you for sure if they have it or can get it for you.
http://randystacye.com/images/diyneedleskimmer/floordrain03.JPG
http://randystacye.com/images/diyneedleskimmer/bell2.JPG

FYI - I was just in bLowes and couldnt find these. I called the store(to special order) and they said they had them in stock. So the guy in plumbing wanted the part# which is:
Lowes part # 181498 and after searching forever he found them topstocked in a box and on clearance.

Hope that helps anyone looking for them.

P.S. still looking for the 6" rubbercap.... wish me luck ;)

Reef_bones
03/14/2007, 01:05 PM
I never did find a 6" rubber bottom...But I did find that a 6" drain line cap (thin wall PVC is drain line) and a 6"rubber coupling will work great..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/tinman402/tank/Recirc%20Skimmer/DSC_0034-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/tinman402/tank/Recirc%20Skimmer/DSC_0038.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/tinman402/tank/Recirc%20Skimmer/DSC_0040.jpg

You still can remove the bottom whenever you need to clean the skimmer..

lakee911
03/14/2007, 04:35 PM
Reef, I like that method better. It does limit the placement of the pump though. Might not work for me.

I see you've got a GenX venturi sitting there. It's not very good. I wish I would have snapped a better picture of mine. I planned on using the Bic pen insert for mine, but then I shoved the hose in there and placed the end as close to the stock impeller as I could. Makes a good restriction and gets a lot of air in.

That bottle is a heavyduty bottle that I bought online for like $8. It's got a 1/4" thick wall. I stuffed a little filter grassy stuff in there and it's really quiet. It's only temporary until I find something much smaller and still quiet.

It's only been in service for an hour or two when these pics were taken.


<a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0797.JPG" title="DSCN0797.JPG"><img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0797_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0797.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0798.JPG" title="DSCN0798.JPG"><img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0798_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0798.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0781.JPG" title="DSCN0781.JPG"><img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0781_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0781.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0780.JPG" title="DSCN0780.JPG"><img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0780_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0780.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0782.JPG" title="DSCN0782.JPG"><img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0782_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0782.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0784.JPG" title="DSCN0784.JPG"><img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0784_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0784.JPG" /></a>
Click for larger pics

draleigh
03/14/2007, 04:57 PM
I think I may try out the OTP pump on this when i finally get the funds together to build this. I am thinking the OTP 5000. Do you think that would be to much pump for this skimmer Lakee? I am planning on building mine tall like yours, probably around 5' to the neck. What do you think??

adnup
03/14/2007, 05:09 PM
I just ordered the uni-seals, clear pvc and gates valve from Aquatic, they were great! Orders place by 3pm est will ship the the same day.

http://www.aquaticeco.com/ (http://)

I forgot to look for an endcap...

lakee911
03/14/2007, 05:10 PM
Unless you're tall you'll need a step to get in and clean it. :) Might need to stabalize it some how with that height.

I think that pump should be fine with that size--as long as it'll overcome the head height.

Goodluck w/ yours
Jason

lakee911
03/15/2007, 09:33 AM
I checked on my skimmer this morning. Some clearish-cloudy water in the collection cup. It's piped to the sump so when it overflows it'll just go back into the tank.

I adjusted the water level down a bit and we'll see what it looks like when I get home tonight.

Jason

crázy clowntang
03/15/2007, 05:43 PM
Hey lakee do you have your output of the skimmer going into a filter sock or just going in the intake section of your sump?

lakee911
03/15/2007, 06:09 PM
My overflow splits to the 'fuge, filter sock and skimmer. The filter sock and the skimmer discharge into the sump together. Skimmer doesn't through filter sock. Those two go through baffles (really not needed) and that and the 'fuge overflow into the return.


When I start up the skimmer up from not running, it overflows into the collection cup for about 30secs, and then stops and water level goes down. What's up with that? After the water level goes down it starts skimming really good after a few minutes. Nice tanish whip cream foam coming out now. Moved the collection cup drain into a 5gal bucket for now.

cougarguy
03/15/2007, 07:18 PM
Hey lakee911 I see you went with the ocean runner what did you do with the GenX 4100 you bought?

crázy clowntang
03/15/2007, 07:53 PM
Lakee, ok let me get this straight, in the intake section of your sump you have the pipe from the overflow that has a filter sock going into the intake section right? and you have the outlet from the skimmer in that same section without the filter sock. Then the water coming from the intake going to the fuge goes through a set of baffles before entering the fuge right ? Sorry if I write so much, but it seems to me that if you have sump and it has three compartments, the intake, fuge and return, you really don´t need a filter sock to control microbubbles because there would be baffles of some sort in the sump to stop microbubbles from getting in the return section right? I just don´t see the reason why to use a filter sock. That is just my opinion.

sellout007
03/15/2007, 09:45 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9445489#post9445489 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Joshsmit56001
Has anyone ever did the egg trick in their actual tank? I think my bioload is too small for my DIY skimmer so I don't get as foam head so I wanted to try this egg idea if it is safe.

Yes, I have and it does work. Almost too well. I actually used part of the yoke (yellow stuff) and my skimmer reacted so fast I didnt have time to get the top back on. Had foam/bubbles on my kitchen floor in a matter of seconds.

Becareful on how much you add. :eek1:

RandyStacyE
03/15/2007, 09:55 PM
I've squirted some 'Stress Coat' in my sump and that seems to make a skimmer go wacko for a while. Point being Stress coat is nothing to worry about and doesn't have to be rinsed and would be of no concern.

lakee911
03/16/2007, 06:16 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9487740#post9487740 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crázy clowntang
Lakee, ok let me get this straight, in the intake section of your sump you have the pipe from the overflow that has a filter sock going into the intake section right? and you have the outlet from the skimmer in that same section without the filter sock. Then the water coming from the intake going to the fuge goes through a set of baffles before entering the fuge right ? Sorry if I write so much, but it seems to me that if you have sump and it has three compartments, the intake, fuge and return, you really don´t need a filter sock to control microbubbles because there would be baffles of some sort in the sump to stop microbubbles from getting in the return section right? I just don´t see the reason why to use a filter sock. That is just my opinion.


Almost, intake, return and fuge. The baffles are between the intake and the return. You got the intake portion right, and the 'fuge just overflows right into the return section.

Maybe I don't really need the filter sock, but I've got it in there for mechanical filtration. I have no other mechanical filtration. I have a very very fine sand in my display tank. I find that it ends up in my sump. Filtersock catches it. I can get about 5 to 6 days out of it before it's too clogged and begins to overflow. I'd remove it when going on vacation or something.

I generally do not have a microbubble problem unless my return water gets too low and the cascading water from the baffles causes bubbles.

Jason

lakee911
03/16/2007, 06:18 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9487352#post9487352 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cougarguy
Hey lakee911 I see you went with the ocean runner what did you do with the GenX 4100 you bought?

I returned that whole pile of GenX pumps back to Addictive Aquatics. *cough*Premium*cough*Aquatics*cough*

Jason

lakee911
03/16/2007, 06:20 AM
I had some really nice skimming action going on this morning. My bioload is kind of small, but the skimmate really smells bad.

I wish I could start it up w/o overflow. I'd like to see how dark the skimmate is, but it gets dilluted from the clear skimmate from overflowing.

Pbrown3701
03/16/2007, 08:44 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9486674#post9486674 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lakee911
When I start up the skimmer up from not running, it overflows into the collection cup for about 30secs, and then stops and water level goes down. What's up with that? After the water level goes down it starts skimming really good after a few minutes. Nice tanish whip cream foam coming out now. Moved the collection cup drain into a 5gal bucket for now.

Lakee - what is happening is, when the skimmer is off, their is no air (bubbles) taking up room in the body. So the normal water level is established. Then, you start pumping air in. That air displaces the water and the only place for the water to go is up initially until the pressure builds and forces it out the skimmer output.

This is less of a problem if you don't have the riser tube on the output and just use a gate valve, but the riser tube has other advantages...

RandyStacyE
03/16/2007, 10:12 AM
I think Pbrown has a point there ... with the gate valve.

If you slightly lowered your stand pipe, would that fix it?

If not maybe you should try to lower it even a little more and stick in a gate valve. Once you get that water level dialed in you should be good to go.

If you shut off the flow (replicating power outage) the skimmer would drain down a little. When the electricity kicks back on ... it would take a bit longer for the reaction chamber to fill back up and that could/should solve the problem.

I hope that makes sense.

lakee911
03/16/2007, 12:08 PM
I think you're on to something, but how does lowering the standpipe fix it? There is going to be headloss across the gate valve either way. In fact, the head loss would be even greater the lower the standpipe, right? Would overflow even more, no?

If I lower it, I'm going to have more water draining into my already pretty full sump. Would hate to risk overflow if the sump got a tad bit too full one day. :(

Might just live with it as for the time being...

eameres
03/16/2007, 01:12 PM
I've been tagging along and slowly amassing the parts to tackle something like this.

I was just wondering about that union that pretty much forms the neck. Is that really necessary? why not just have the 2" pipe sit in the inverted drain thingy's coupling without gluing it so it can be removed? I assume you'd really never have the water level go beyond the top of the reducer cone anyway, right? That way you'd also avoid a joint in the neck of the skimmer.

RandyStacyE
03/16/2007, 01:17 PM
I just figured that if the skimmer is literally skimming extremely wet for the first 20-30 seconds or so, this possibly could be solved by lowering your stand pipe a little. Possibly a simple fix.

If that doesn't work at all and if you wanted to try the gate valve, you would likely have to shorten your stand pipe more than just a little. When the elec. goes out YES the skimmer will drain down to the stand pipe height, but when the elec. comes back on I'm wondering if you wwould still have this problem.

lakee911
03/17/2007, 10:01 AM
I don't want to mess with it at this point. If I could soft start the pump and ramp it up to full power, I bet it wouldn't do it. Give it time to pull in air and slowly raise the water. Maybe another day I'll figure out a solution. It's doing really well skimming at this point. I have a light bioload, so not a ton to skim but I can't complain.

<a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0802.JPG" title="DSCN0802.JPG"> <img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0802_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0802.JPG" /> </a> <a href="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/view/8/DSCN0801.JPG" title="DSCN0801.JPG"> <img src="http://www.ipixelspot.com/files/8/DSCN0801_thumb.jpg" alt="DSCN0801.JPG" /> </a>
Click for larger pics

lakee911
03/17/2007, 10:03 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9493101#post9493101 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by eameres
I've been tagging along and slowly amassing the parts to tackle something like this.

I was just wondering about that union that pretty much forms the neck. Is that really necessary? why not just have the 2" pipe sit in the inverted drain thingy's coupling without gluing it so it can be removed? I assume you'd really never have the water level go beyond the top of the reducer cone anyway, right? That way you'd also avoid a joint in the neck of the skimmer.

The union gives you something to glue the collection cup to and let you remove it. I don't glue the neck into the union. I actually sanded everyything smooth in the drain union neck connections. Joints don't hurt anything.

If you read the thread, I mention that my water does go above the joint in the neck when it first starts up. You can try your method though. Might not leak. Will be hard to glue cup in place.

Jason

RandyStacyE
03/17/2007, 10:46 AM
lakee911 is right. The union is SO convenient. It might seem insignificant when you're just thinking about building your skimmer, but when it comes right down to it ... removing the cup by twisting and jiggling the thing around is not fun.

Like lakee911 said, the top of the union is where the collection cup sits and it creates a wide sealing surface for you to glue the cup to the union.

draleigh
03/17/2007, 01:21 PM
Looks like it is working pretty good.

For those looking for the rubber cap for the bottom, i found it at aquaticeco I needed to order some uniseals and did a search and they had them.....$12 i think, but i couldn't find them at lowes and HD doesn't carry anything for PVC over 4" I decided to make mine with 1" influent and 1.5" effluent. I can always choke it down if that is to much effluent. And the influent will be fed from my overflow going to my basement so that can be choked down as well. Gonna make the trip back to Lowes tomorrow to get the 6" and 1.5" PVC. I had everything yesterday but got sick of waiting in line so i left.

I also decided to make a Denitrator like this one. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=938462&perpage=25&pagenumber=27

Cheap to build and will fit in my sump without tanking much room. I am thinking about feeding the denitrator from my return pump since it is only a few drops of water a second not like it is going to take much from my return pump. This hobby is great for the DIY person. I think there is endless stuff to make :)

Oh yeah, for my pump i am going to be using a QuietOne 4000 to see if it will work. I have it sitting around since i was going to plumb my sump under the tank first, then decided to run everything to the basement and got a bigger return pump, so the 4000 has just been sitting. I think i will mesh mod the 4000. it is a big of a big pump for this, but i think it will work good. Guess time will tell. If it doesn't work i am going to try an OTP pump. I'll post some pics when i get mine going.

lakee911
03/17/2007, 02:40 PM
Savko has that rubber cap too. That's where I got mine.

RandyStacyE
03/17/2007, 03:03 PM
I don't think I'll buy much from Savko again. I bought just a couple of Uniseals from them a couple weeks ago. Would you believe the Uniseals were just a few bucks total and they charged me $7.25 in shipping! The box came USPS so that's like only $2.00 ... I'm in IN and the box came from OH. The funny thing about Uniseals is that there's a company not even 10 miles away that actually makes them but they wouldn't sell me ANY!

I paid $4.09 including tax for a 6" rubber end cap at my local plumbing supply. Check real lumber companies, not just Lowes and Home Depot.

From Savko this cap could easily end up to be $20.00

cougarguy
03/17/2007, 03:17 PM
Yeah I buy most of my plumbing supplies from savko but they are less than 5 min away so I dont have to worry about shipping.

lakee911
03/17/2007, 03:52 PM
Ya, Savko is 10min away from me. Where you at cougar? I'm in Clintonville. They are my 'local plumbing store.' I hate getting ripped off on shipping charges....err I mean 'handling charges.' I only go to bLowes (of Ghetto...err Central Columbus) when I need simple stuff since they're 2min away.

Jason

cougarguy
03/17/2007, 05:24 PM
I live just off of 161 and 71.

draleigh
03/17/2007, 05:32 PM
have you guys been to reef systems? He is up on that side of town. I'm on the other side of columbus, i think Phishy's is down here. Haven't been to any of them yet. Any recommendations for a good place for a clean up crew for my tank? I need to get some snails

cougarguy
03/17/2007, 06:34 PM
I highly recommend Phishy to anyone. Serdar & Renee are great and extremely helpful with any thing you need and their prices are as good or better then most of the other LFS around here.

I dont know to much about reef systems I haven't been there yet but I want to check it out some time.

lakee911
03/18/2007, 01:24 PM
I went to Reef Systems to get some sand -- seed my critters in nt new deep sand bed. Others have said good things about their sand, but it was so-so. I had a few bristle worms and some spaghetti worms (?), but I was expecting more. They have a lot of nice corals and stuff though. It's really a neat place. For the rest of the clean up crew, check out Phishy. They've got good stock of snails, crabs, etc.

Jason

draleigh
03/18/2007, 07:40 PM
Thanks, where is Phishy's located? I have head someone out near my but not sure where. Didn't get to build the skimmer this weekend, got called in to work today. Waiting for the uniseals anyway so next weekend i guess.

cougarguy
03/18/2007, 08:35 PM
Phishy is located on Hamilton rd. just south of Morse rd.

GuySmilie
03/18/2007, 11:52 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9500703#post9500703 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lakee911
Savko has that rubber cap too. That's where I got mine.
Here's a DIY PVC skimmer that I was collecting parts for a few years back. Instead of the wobbly rubber end cap you guys are using, I was going to use an NDS brand 9 sq in grate p/n 970G. Lowes carries them in our area for around $14. Located in the drainage parts aisle. It's made out of structural foam polyolefin.

My plan was to cut out a 6" acrylic disk to set inside of the grate, then seal it in with silicone rubber or whatever solvent will bond well between acrylic and polyolefin. Then I planned on attaching the grate assembly to the bottom of the PVC pipe with whatever will bond well between PVC and polyolefin.

You guys have got me inspired (once again) to get this thing built. But not right now - maybe soon. Sure is nice to have you pathfinders to all the gritty work :) Anybody know what bonds well between PVC and polyolefin?
Guy
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/147143970G_grate.jpg

lakee911
03/19/2007, 04:18 AM
I saw that too, Guy. the PVC that I had didn't quite fit well enough though. How's the fit with yours? That base would be pretty nice though. Post some more pics as it comes along. Also, if you close up the bottom w/ glueing something, it makes it hard to get inside...

GuySmilie
03/19/2007, 08:02 AM
It is a bit loose but not too bad. Looks like there is about a .050" diff in OD of grate & ID of pipe. I think a nice heavy bed of silicone would remedy that. I'm still not confident enough about how to make a satisfactory bond with polyolefin. That stuff almost feels like Teflon.
Guy

draleigh
03/19/2007, 08:11 AM
I think i will stick to the rubber cap and just strap it up to my stand i built in the basement for my sump. This is a little more pricy then the rubber cap but would work. You could bolt it down to a piece of acrylic for a base.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Spears-6-inch-2-piece-PVC-Flange-socket-150PSI_W0QQitemZ330098995691QQcategoryZ63901QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

RandyStacyE
03/19/2007, 08:41 AM
You could make a quick run to Lowes and get a piece of acrylic, cut a circle and glue it to the bottom fo the pipe.

You could order a '6" test cap' and glue it in. This company sells a bag of 10 for $20.00 so this leads me to believe that someone out there will sell them individually.
http://www.greatbayfl.com/caps.cfm?cftoken=93633574&cfid=96062
http://www.greatbayfl.com/images/caps.jpg

I searched for countless hours for a nice flat cap that would work and I just haven't found anything that was cheaper or worked better than the rubber cap. For those like lakee911 that are making tall skimmers, they NEED a wide flat base so the rubber cap is just a pain for them.

crázy clowntang
03/19/2007, 04:35 PM
Hey GUY, did you try looking for the glue that is used for connecting PVC and polyolefin. If you can not find at Lowes or HD try a plumbing supply house. I will try to get the name of the glue for you.

GuySmilie
03/19/2007, 09:11 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9515949#post9515949 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crázy clowntang
Hey GUY, did you try looking for the glue that is used for connecting PVC and polyolefin. If you can not find at Lowes or HD try a plumbing supply house. I will try to get the name of the glue for you.
Thanks crazy, I'd really appreciate that. In fact I did fire off a letter to NDS yesterday asking which they thought would be best to use to bond polyolefin and PVC; one of the Oatey solvents or silicone rubber. They wrote back, "the silicone would probably be best for your application". So not much encouragement from them. Anyway, will be interesting what you find out.
Guy

crázy clowntang
03/20/2007, 04:21 PM
Guy ,I totally forgot to ask the guy at my shop what the glue name was but i will try not to forget tommorow.

GuySmilie
03/20/2007, 07:22 PM
No prob. I'm in no hurry at all.
Guy

crázy clowntang
03/22/2007, 04:03 PM
Hey guy, there is a glue that they sell at HD or Lowes you need to make sure it is for abs pipe or all purpose glue. This can work for you cause you are using it for something else besides a waste line, and the water pressure going through the pipe will not exceed 25psi(i think). So the glue itself can glue both pipes and you will not have a problem and to seal the joint a little more, you could put some silicone on the joint.

GuySmilie
03/22/2007, 06:45 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9543929#post9543929 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crázy clowntang
Hey guy, there is a glue that they sell at HD or Lowes you need to make sure it is for abs pipe or all purpose glue. This can work for you cause you are using it for something else besides a waste line, and the water pressure going through the pipe will not exceed 25psi(i think). So the glue itself can glue both pipes and you will not have a problem and to seal the joint a little more, you could put some silicone on the joint. Thanks for the info. I've already got some Oatey All Purpose solvent. I think I'll pick up one of those cheap small polyolefin NDS drain strainers and glue it into a piece of PVC before I try it out on the bigger stuff :D
Guy

crázy clowntang
03/22/2007, 07:34 PM
Cool that glue will get the job done, but if it does not work well let me know:)

GuySmilie
03/22/2007, 10:54 PM
Does anyone know how GARF makes this?
Surely it's not done in one pour!?
I think it looks neat and would like to figure out their technique for creating this piece.
Guy

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/147143arag.jpg

GuySmilie
03/22/2007, 10:56 PM
I'll tell ya guys, I'm batting 000 tonight. This is the second time I have posted this message in the wrong thread. And it not even the weekend yet!!

Mea Culpa!

lakee911
03/23/2007, 08:09 AM
Looks like clumps that are kind of piled on one at a time. Each little scoop is a handful. Probably made w/ a very low water and rich cement mix.

Jason

adnup
03/23/2007, 08:17 AM
I would assume the easiest way to make a rock like that would be to make all the "disc's" then glue them together with more mix.

draleigh
03/23/2007, 09:13 AM
i agree with adnup. I think it is a bunch of small pieces. From the ones i made i don't think making this in one batch would work. Of course i am not the expert that "Eddie" is who makes these for Garf.

pvtschultz
03/23/2007, 11:22 AM
Sure, you just need something like a styrofoam cooler and a lot of damp sand for casting it in. You build it with the "arago-crete" from the bottom up and add the casting sand to create the voids and other features. There are numerous threads disscussing this here in RC and other places.

crázy clowntang
03/23/2007, 10:26 PM
That rock looks cool:)

draleigh
03/24/2007, 06:00 AM
back to the origin of this thread, Lakee, how is your skimmer running. I keep saying this, but i think THIS weekend i am going to be able to get to the store and get the PVC to do this project FINALLY.

lakee911
03/25/2007, 07:05 PM
It's running great. It's pulling out so much gunk I have to clean it daily or every othern day. I just use a bottle brush in the neck and it goes crazy for about 30seconds afterwords and flushes it out. As soon as my front porch (not reef related) project is done, I'll be building a wet neck for it.

Jason

draleigh
03/25/2007, 08:45 PM
Sweet. Well i got mine pretty much put together. I had something else come up so i didn't get the pump plumbed to the reaction chamber. Mine is about 4.5 feet to the neck. Did a 20% water change this weekend as well. My cycle completed last week so it was needed. I have one fish in there (Sissortail Goby) who is doing great. Right now i need to get this water change complete. I'll post some pics of mine when i get it finished. Looks pretty much like yours so i don't want to start another tread on this. Diffenitly post some pics of the wet neck, looking forward to that

GuySmilie
03/26/2007, 02:27 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9545562#post9545562 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crázy clowntang
Cool that glue will get the job done, but if it does not work well let me know:) Well crazy, I bought a couple of test pieces the other day. I tried the Oatey All-Purpose glue on the polyolefin to PVC and it was a no-go.

At first it appeared to be tight and strong, but with a little pressure it popped loose. It looks like the primer/glue combo didn't even phase the poly stuff. Looked as new as when I bought it. So tell your plumbing buddy that he needs to rethink that bit of advice :)
Guy

lakee911
03/26/2007, 08:33 AM
What is you use some 60 grit sandpaper and roughen up the Polyolefin? Any glue for solvent welding Polyolefin that may work on PVC too? How about an epoxy?

RandyStacyE
03/26/2007, 09:10 AM
I recall reading (on RC) about a glue/adhesive that works well on HDPE (high density polyethylene). I really wish I bookmarked that thread!

It might be that thread showing the 55 gal drum converted into a skimmer, but I'm not sure.

Anyways ... that stuff might work. A lot of help huh? Maybe it was Beananimal that knew, but I just can't remember. I'll dig and see if I can find it.

crázy clowntang
03/31/2007, 01:53 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9570945#post9570945 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GuySmilie
Well crazy, I bought a couple of test pieces the other day. I tried the Oatey All-Purpose glue on the polyolefin to PVC and it was a no-go.

At first it appeared to be tight and strong, but with a little pressure it popped loose. It looks like the primer/glue combo didn't even phase the poly stuff. Looked as new as when I bought it. So tell your plumbing buddy that he needs to rethink that bit of advice :)
Guy
Sorry about that. He said it would be fine, but nothing is ever easy uh?lol

adnup
04/02/2007, 09:41 AM
Any updates? How did the porch come out?

I should get my pump and end cap today! Aquatic was out of the quick cap..:( Now I should be all set to finish mine tomorrow...:D

Pbrown3701
04/02/2007, 10:19 AM
A simple 2part epoxy will bind to both PVC and polyolefin (HDPE). Just rough up the binding areas a little with 60grit sandpaper and apply the epoxy liberally. Give it a couple of days to fully cure and you'll never get it apart.

lakee911
04/09/2007, 10:27 AM
The porch is coming along, but since I don't have the luxury of living in a warm climate, I have to contend with nature. The rain I could deal with. The heat I could deal with, but wind and cold is no fun. Here are some pictures of my evening and weekend work. Hopefully this afternoon/evening I can get back at it.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=9682395#post9682395

GuySmilie
04/25/2007, 04:37 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9627613#post9627613 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Pbrown3701
A simple 2part epoxy will bind to both PVC and polyolefin (HDPE). Just rough up the binding areas a little with 60grit sandpaper and apply the epoxy liberally. Give it a couple of days to fully cure and you'll never get it apart.
Thanks for the info pbrown.
Any recommendation on which 2-part.....Devcon, Loctite, Duro, TiteBond?
Hopefully something I can get locally which typically excludes Weld-On stuff.

And sorry for the delayed response on this. I just now got to read your reply.
Guy

lakee911
04/29/2007, 05:56 PM
Discovered tonight that when my water goes really low in my sump, the skimmer starts overflowing. Doesn't make sense really. It's fed from my overflow and it discharges into the sump in a compartment that doesn't fluctuate and there's the air gap in the stand pipe anyways...any ideas?

lakee911
05/01/2007, 11:07 AM
I think I have it figured out. When the water goes low enough to suck air the flow reduces in the overflow. The same thing happens if I siphon water out of the display tank--reduced flow. Thus, flow to the skimmer is reduced. When the flow picks back up, water rises and it has to overcome all the bubbles and then overflows.

Does anyone else have this problem w/ their recirc skimmer?

Jason

RandyStacyE
05/01/2007, 12:00 PM
Is the end of your skimmer outlet plumbing submerged in your sump?

jck9
05/01/2007, 04:39 PM
hey randy how would that sight glass thing work? would it show the separation of water level and foam in the tube?

RandyStacyE
05/01/2007, 05:36 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9855342#post9855342 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jck9
hey randy how would that sight glass thing work? would it show the separation of water level and foam in the tube?

It should ... it would just show how high the water is within the skimmer. I don't think there would be any bubbles in it either.

lakee911
05/03/2007, 02:06 PM
I'm not going to think about this before I ask it. Maybe it's a dumb question.... Would it actually read the TRUE level of the skimmer w/o bubbles in it?

The density of the water in the skimmer would be lower, ie take up more space, than that of the water in your sight glass. Right? So, would it be a true representation?

Randy, it is submerged in the sump. It's quieter that way. There is an air gap at the top of the stand pipe too. It's not siphoning because of the air gap. In fact if I look down the top, it's only a partially filled pipe on the discharge side.

RandyStacyE
05/03/2007, 06:05 PM
My skimmer was driving me crazy yesterday and it took me a while to figure it out. Nothing I did would raise the water level ... I had the stand pipe ALL the way up too. It just didn't make any sense.

Then I figured it out, I have a cap with a hold drilled in it as the air break. The hole was clogged so it caused a siphon :) I think the hole was too small anyway, when it’s clean it doesn't affect the skimmer, but it could stand to be bigger.

lakee911
05/04/2007, 06:27 PM
I have no cap w/ a hole, just the open 1" pipe on mine...