Can you build a stand bigger?

[Im Lon 2]

I have built quite a few stands in the past, but here is what I want to know.. If I'm building a stand for a 180 gal tank a foot print of 72x24 can I build the stand 72x36 and still support the tank with out a problem?

Here is how I built the stand for my 180.
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m156/Imlon2/Sep2106018a.jpg

And finished!
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m156/Imlon2/180gal088a.jpg

[zeusfc]

Nice finish Lonnie!

the footprint of 72 x 36 isn't a problem the main thing is the rigidity of the top... that tank's going to weigh a hell of a lot when full, and normally, if the tank covers the full cabinet, then there's no problem as all the top receives equal force, but if the tank doesn't cover it all, you MAY find that if the top isn't adequately secured, or not thick enough, it could start to "curl" or "lift" due to the unequal stresses in the wood...

one simple option is to have the 72 x 24 tank on one board, and a separate 72 x 12 board, with separate bracing, butted up tightly; IF there was any movement, it wouldn't pull the top off!

[AZDesertRat]

Yes. My 100G tank is 60 x 18 and I made the stand 60 x 24 for more room under the stand plus an added shelf in back for ballasts and the closed loop pump. I beefed up the cross pieces and added a 3/4" marine plywood top before setting the tank on it.

[BeanAnimal]

I am somewhat lost here...

The underlying support members should support the perimeter of the tank, no edge of the tank should simply rest on the "top". For that matter there does not have to be a "top" as the tank is supported by the edges, not the bottom pane.

You can make the stand as wide or deep as you like, as long as the tank perimeter is supported by substantial members. If you place a "top" on it, it should not curl or bow under wait, because it should not have anyplace to go.

[AZDesertRat]

If the stand is deeper than the tank there is no perimeter for the back edge to rest on hence the reason for the additional front to back joists and the marine plywood to structurally tie them all together.

[BeanAnimal]

Yup that will work... but I would much rather have the substantial member under the edge of the tank and the "extension" be just that, an extension.

[AZDesertRat]

Then you would have a long span from side to side rather than short multiple spans from front to back. The only other option would be to put a vertical support in side the middle of the stand to support the span and that would suck. The idea for me was to gain as much unobstructed room inside the stand as possible.

[Im Lon 2]

The reason I was asking was because I wanted to put a 2'x4' sump/refuge under the stand as well.

and the extra support would be in the way..

What if the top frame was made with all 2x6's. Could I notch the 2x6's going front to back to help support back brace for the tank?

I wish I was good with CAD type software this is hard to explain.

[AZDesertRat]

Its not real easy to see here but my stand is 6" deeper than the tank.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f369/AJOIII/IMAG0008.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f369/AJOIII/stained5.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f369/AJOIII/6-1023.jpg

[Im Lon 2]

Looks good!!

Were did you get your doors? Also did you build that little stand next to your tank? The color match between everything look excellent in the picture.. :thumbsup:



I know I plan on having at least 1/2" USB plywood under the tank, to help with support.

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9449458#post9449458 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AZDesertRat
Then you would have a long span from side to side rather than short multiple spans from front to back. The only other option would be to put a vertical support in side the middle of the stand to support the span and that would suck. The idea for me was to gain as much unobstructed room inside the stand as possible.

We are thinking two different things... but that is OK. Your plan will work just fine. I would put the cross braces on a sleepr or ledge that is doubled against the rear support. I would also make sure that the rear vertical supports caught that sleeper as well. That way it will not try to twise the rear horizontal support.

I may also use blocking in between the spans, under the rear edge of the tank. May not be needed... but then again I overbuild most things.

[AZDesertRat]

Yes I built it all. The doors came from www.qualitydoors.com . They can be ordered through HDand Lowes and you save on shipping if they are delivered to the store. I did my whole kitchen and dining room with their doors plus built a floor to ceiling pantry too as well as the tank. Pick up their brochure at HD or Lowes for all the measuring info and pricing. I have been happy with every door and drawer font and that is a bunch of them.