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View Full Version : Need advise on a 90g closed loop


pv1191
03/29/2007, 09:32 PM
Looking to do a closed loop on a 90g tank. Any suggestions?

pv1191
03/29/2007, 09:33 PM
It is an acrilic rectangle with a center overflow

AZDesertRat
03/29/2007, 09:43 PM
If its not set up yet I would drill it and install bulkheads. Much cleaner look than up and over the back and better for the pump since it will have a positive flooded suction and not be trying to lift up and over. My 100 G is drilled for 1" bulkheads in each upper back corner for returns and a 1" in the back center about half way down for the suction. My stand is 6" deeper front to back than the tank so the closed loop pump can sit on the shelf behind the tank to minimize plumbing and be accessible for maintenance. I am using an Ocean Runner 3500 pump through a Oceans Motions Squirt two way and returned to the tank through LocLines in the bulkheads which were bushed down to 3/4" at the bulkhead for the LocLine to fit. All you see inside the tank are the returns in each back corner.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f369/AJOIII/1-24-07004.jpg

davidryder
03/29/2007, 09:57 PM
I wish I drilled mine... but it's not bad, I have an orbit light fixture that hides most of the plumbing...

What sort of suggestions are you looking for? Do you know how to plumb a closed loop and are just looking for suggestions on how to build from there or do you want tips on the basic setup of them?

Liquid Hobby
03/29/2007, 10:03 PM
I drilled for my CL on a 40.

The CL intake is dead center (Next time I will not put it dead center as it's not the easiest to get to and it restricts my aquascaping). The 4 outlets are run off the 'manifold'. Works great. I've got vaious locline splitters and nozzles that allow me to get flow to as much of the tank as possible.

If it's a new and currently dry tank, I say drill it!

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/105499IMG_5987-med.JPG

pv1191
03/29/2007, 10:53 PM
Here is a shot of my 90 wet dry system. I'm going to drill the bottom for a sump and closed loop.

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e165/pv1191/90g1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

pv1191
03/29/2007, 10:55 PM
Front shot before leak checking. I filled it w/ tap water because it was new and never used.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e165/pv1191/90g3.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

kwaters
03/29/2007, 11:00 PM
Okay, define true "closed loop".

Kris

pv1191
03/29/2007, 11:00 PM
No leaks and the closed loop is in the works. I will use the rio 2500 as a backup for the mag 12 in the return system. Closed loop system will be 1200 to 1500 gph. The overflow will determine the total gph back into the tank. I want ALL THE FLOW I can get.

pv1191
03/29/2007, 11:07 PM
Closed loop is a system independant of the overflow. Drill three or four holes in the bottom of the tank and install bulkheads. Use locklines to direct the flow to the areas of the tabk that will require fresh water more often. Use one 3/4 bulkhead for the pullout of the system and then to an out of the sump pump. Return it to the 3/4 returns then you have it. A closed loop system. Closed off from the rest of the system.

davidryder
03/29/2007, 11:08 PM
http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html

pv1191
03/29/2007, 11:12 PM
This is a long term projeact. I can set up a simple system and let it run but I want a system that will be up for YEARS and running well. If I don't have a closed loop then there will be dead spots in my tank that will accumulate BAD stuff and eventually kill my system. I don't want that.

pv1191
03/29/2007, 11:16 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9603953#post9603953 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by davidryder
http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html

Been there and learned from that. I wish I had that type of cash! I am on a budget and that requires some creative thinking. A closed loop system for a 90g is not rocket science. I have the knowledge, I have the thehnology, this will not be the 6 milliondollar project. It CAN BE DONE............Hello LOWE's......Oh do I love you!!!!!!!

pv1191
04/01/2007, 12:26 AM
Anyone else with ideas? Which pump? I was looking at the Sequence reeflow Dart. It's rated at 3600 GPH. With the amount of plumbing and splitting into 4 outlets I should get 2200 to 2400 GPH.

pv1191
04/01/2007, 12:31 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9603508#post9603508 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Liquid Hobby
I drilled for my CL on a 40.

The CL intake is dead center (Next time I will not put it dead center as it's not the easiest to get to and it restricts my aquascaping). The 4 outlets are run off the 'manifold'. Works great. I've got vaious locline splitters and nozzles that allow me to get flow to as much of the tank as possible.

If it's a new and currently dry tank, I say drill it!

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/105499IMG_5987-med.JPG

Is that the bottom or back of your tank? I'm going to drill mine on the bottom so I can hade as much as possible with the aquascape. My sump returns are going to be drilled on the back of the tank about 3/4 to the top.

pv1191
04/07/2007, 09:16 PM
hello?

purebullet417
04/07/2007, 09:38 PM
thats the back of his tank

SDguy
04/07/2007, 10:02 PM
I would never drill the bottom of my tank. One cracked/defective bulkhead, and then what. I simply drilled one hole in the upper left back corner of the tank for the CL intake. All water gets pumped back into the tank via a perimeter manifold. All plumbing is removable/cleanable/serviceable/replaceable without draining the tank.
Here you can see the drain and returns:
http://members.cox.net/sdsmartguy/115g%20with%20salt.JPG

Here's the manifold:
http://members.cox.net/sdsmartguy/CL%20Manifold%203.jpg

pv1191
04/07/2007, 11:20 PM
Call me vein but I don't want all the plumbing visible. I'm going to slpit my returns into the three outlets on the bottom and cover them with the aquascaping. They will blow to the rear and the sump returns will push it all back to the front and down. Like a big circular motion.

SDguy
04/08/2007, 08:25 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9673141#post9673141 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pv1191
Call me vein but I don't want all the plumbing visible.

By "all the plumbing" you mean those little black nozzles at the top of the tank? :rolleyes:

ok :)

Satori
04/08/2007, 09:53 AM
I like the holes for CL in the bottom. I have 3 in the bottom of my 180, and split each into 2 with locline for a total of 6 CL outlets. They are all hidden in the rocks, with only the tips of the nozzles poking out.

pv1191
04/08/2007, 09:55 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9674861#post9674861 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Satori
I like the holes for CL in the bottom. I have 3 in the bottom of my 180, and split each into 2 with locline for a total of 6 CL outlets. They are all hidden in the rocks, with only the tips of the nozzles poking out.

That's what I'm talking about!

davocean
04/09/2007, 11:42 AM
This is what I did w/ my 180.
I bought it used and the bottom was already drilled.
They were a bit small(inlets) and I have nems, so I didn't want intakes close to bottom.
I ended up drilling for 1 1/2" bulkheads (2, one each corner) that T to a 2" drain.
I found these intake covers at my LFS and really like them as they just unscrew for easy cleaning.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/newtankswappics010.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/newtankswappics012.jpg

I added more holes w/ an 1/8" bit for good flow, and they have very little suction(my shrimp can climb on them no prob.)

This shows drains to T(2- 1 1/2"-2" T and drain)

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/newtankswappics007.jpg

davocean
04/09/2007, 11:53 AM
For return on my loop, I went w/ spray bars.
I like this so flow goes behind rocks, no dead spots.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/new180005.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/new180002-1.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/Bestoftank126.jpg

Mine is driven by a dart, may be overkill for a 90, you may get away w/ something like an oceanrunner 6500
It does make a humm that bugs me a little, hoping enclosing everything in cabinet quiets it enough for me.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/newtankswappics009.jpg

davocean
04/09/2007, 12:10 PM
My overall view is unobstructed.
I'm waiting for my tunzes to come in for additional flow, and that will be the only real visible pumps/filt. besides the locklines from my sump which is driven by my eheim 1262(one of the best pieces of EQ I've ever bought)
Going w/ tunze nano 6025 w/ mods when they come in.
Should be about 40x flow total when done.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/new180088.jpg

pv1191
04/09/2007, 04:23 PM
Thanks Dav, I really like the setup. Very clean!. I too am going to used a Reeflow Dart. I'm going to plumb with ball valves throughout so I will be able to adjust the flow as needed. My returns will be pumped with a Mag 12 that is currently feeding my 50g. Right now it's about 1/4 regulated. So it should be perfect for 90. I just need to find the time to do this. I was going to dedicate this weekend but my 5 year old broke his arm on friday. SO between the doctor appointments, catering to him and Easter it didn't get done. Maybe next weekend

Kaiden
04/13/2007, 10:55 PM
I would not go with the spray bars on any system that I did not have a clear reach to. Spray bars tend to get clogged and stop all the flow. It would be easy to just drill from the bottom like I thought you were going to do. Then use Loc-line to direct the flow. Closed loops are easy, you should have no problems with this project. One last thing what gives with the second opinions? First the Closed Loop then the Stand Pipe, A real friendship breaker! Bummer!

davocean
04/14/2007, 12:41 AM
????
Stand pipe is just an overflow silencer.
My spray bars are on a union, easily reached for cleaning.

pv1191
04/14/2007, 09:55 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9722006#post9722006 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kaidenjohn
I would not go with the spray bars on any system that I did not have a clear reach to. Spray bars tend to get clogged and stop all the flow. It would be easy to just drill from the bottom like I thought you were going to do. Then use Loc-line to direct the flow. Closed loops are easy, you should have no problems with this project. One last thing what gives with the second opinions? First the Closed Loop then the Stand Pipe, A real friendship breaker! Bummer!

Sorry man, Just looking for more ideas.