2x EDUCTORS & NO MORE POWERHEADS!!

[ivgonmad]

If anyone is interested I made some Eductors that give me all the flow I need in my 90g tank.

CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFO (http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23750) on how to create your own!

[barbra]

I actually sell metal metal eductors for industrial usage so I have been familliar with the concept for awhile. The ones I have looked at in the past would have dominated the tank in a very unattractive way. Has that changed? It is hard to tell from the in-tank pic.

[Fishboy1230]

Not at all from the video Look like the size of a soda can or less. There made from Pvc parts for about $5-7 so no metal to rust in your tank!

Video link--- http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t189/ivgonmad/Aquariums/Misc/?action=view&current=CIMG0702.flv

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9740462#post9740462 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishboy1230
Not at all from the video Look like the size of a soda can or less. There made from Pvc parts for about $5-7 so no metal to rust in your tank!

Video link--- http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t189/ivgonmad/Aquariums/Misc/?action=view&current=CIMG0702.flv

Yup thats right, smaller than a soda can.

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9740376#post9740376 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by barbra
I actually sell metal metal eductors for industrial usage so I have been familliar with the concept for awhile. The ones I have looked at in the past would have dominated the tank in a very unattractive way. Has that changed? It is hard to tell from the in-tank pic.

why dont you take a look yourself, click on the link up top

[ivgonmad]

so, anybody try them yet?

[kookerson]

So.....do you need a super beefy pump for this to work? Ive got an Ocean Runner 3500 as my return pump (with a 3-1/2 foot head).......would it be worth doing one of these eductors as my return?

[ivgonmad]

This will with work any pump that can push water through the eductor's 7/16" hole, so yeah it should work. The less pressure the pump can handle the less efficient the eductor will be, but should still work.

Oh, and yes it would be beneficial because even if you only get a 2x increase in flow, it is still a 2x increase in flow :)

I would only use one eductor with the Ocean Runner 3500, if it is too much flow, try splitting it into two, but I would try with just one first.


Good Luck

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9757049#post9757049 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kookerson
So.....do you need a super beefy pump for this to work? Ive got an Ocean Runner 3500 as my return pump (with a 3-1/2 foot head).......would it be worth doing one of these eductors as my return?

For under $5, you should just try it anyways to see what kind of output you get :)

LMK how it goes, pretty sure you gonna like the results.

[rsteagall]

Question... is the compartment on the right for water storage to keep the level constant in the rest of the sump?

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t189/ivgonmad/Aquariums/Misc/CIMG0709.jpg

[sfsuphysics]

my ocean's motion won't allow these to work at all, once any pressure starts building up it'll have another outlet to go through, it does look nice though.

[ivgonmad]

I have tried them with an Aquaclear 901 (900gph) which used to be the 110, and have pretty good results, I'm sure you can get your OR 3500 to work on one of these since the Aquaclear is not even a pump, its a big powerhead LOL!

[ivgonmad]

My Eductors utilize more of the speed that the pump is already generating and with an outlet hole that is ~1/2" that doesn't generate a lot of Back Pressure. Other eductors sold in the aquarium industry are adaptations of industrial grade mixing eductors that usually use high pressure pumps with a low output, so they are designed with a small outlet hole to create the fast velocity jet is needed to work these eductors.

Not sure if it makes sense? LOL

In other words... These eductors don't require as much pressure to run as the ones that are being developed for the industry at the moment, the outlet from the eductor is about 1/2 in size, not a big problem for most pumps.

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9757382#post9757382 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sfsuphysics
my ocean's motion won't allow these to work at all, once any pressure starts building up it'll have another outlet to go through, it does look nice though.

Oceans Motions.... This should work as long as you have them on every outlet so that they pressure is equalized throughout the lines and the water has no easy exit.

You should get an amazing wave action if you get this on your ocean motions working with the eductors and an appropriate pump. :)

So, please try it with eductors on all outlets and LMK if you like the results. I am very interested in hearing what happens.

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9757595#post9757595 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ivgonmad
Oceans Motions.... This should work as long as you have them on every outlet so that they pressure is equalized throughout the lines and the water has no easy exit.

You should get an amazing wave action if you get this on your ocean motions working with the eductors and an appropriate pump. :)

So, please try it with eductors on all outlets and LMK if you like the results. I am very interested in hearing what happens.

Easy and cheap to make anyways :)

[Pbrown3701]

The reason the commercially available units use a small output is because the basis for the eductor operation is using fluid velocity to create a low pressure vacuum (which pulls more fluid). The more velocity you can create, the better the eductor will work (but you do create more pressure too).

Nice work by the way. I bought one off the shelf for almost 30 bucks. Works great, but i wasn't happy about having to pay for something that I knew could be made DIY much cheaper.

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9757375#post9757375 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rsteagall
Question... is the compartment on the right for water storage to keep the level constant in the rest of the sump?

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t189/ivgonmad/Aquariums/Misc/CIMG0709.jpg

Thats gonna be my refugium, it has a kind of durso stand pipe that will suck up some pods from the bottom of the refugium.

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9757614#post9757614 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Pbrown3701
The reason the commercially available units use a small output is because the basis for the eductor operation is using fluid velocity to create a low pressure vacuum (which pulls more fluid). The more velocity you can create, the better the eductor will work (but you do create more pressure too).

Nice work by the way. I bought one off the shelf for almost 30 bucks. Works great, but i wasn't happy about having to pay for something that I knew could be made DIY much cheaper.

yeah, thats what I was trying to say!!! Thanks for making it clear for everybody, my explanation was kinda funny LOL!!

[Pbrown3701]

Also - on your sump, I read that you plan to use the right side for a fuge. How do you plan to prevent that from syphoning once the water level reaches the bulkhead? And if you drill a hole, do you think you'll have some problems with microbubbles reaching your return section? You may be able to extend the output pipe to the other side of the baffles so you can eliminate that problem - just a thought.

[ivgonmad]

I was thinking that too :)

It has a hole, but what I was thinking is that I could also put a larger pipe like a 3" PVC that extend above the water level and have fuge dump in there, it will overflow the 3" PVC and dribble into the return section.

Not sure if the pods would make it through all that, or if they would get stuck in the last part where the 3/4" line from the fuge drains into the 3" PVC.

[Pbrown3701]

Well, if they don't make it through that, then they definately won't make it through the pump. In order for pods to make it to the display, you should have your fuge higher than your display so that it can dump directly without them having to go through the return pump. With that said, mine is set up the same as yours...

[Pbrown3701]

you may also consider just removing the pipes all together and just let the water dribble out of the bulkhead and run down the baffle in a sheet (probablly less microbubbles that way)

[kookerson]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9757303#post9757303 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ivgonmad
For under $5, you should just try it anyways to see what kind of output you get :)

LMK how it goes, pretty sure you gonna like the results.

Yeah, no kidding huh........$5 isnt going to break the bank! lol! Ill post my results as soon as I build this thing!

[FloridaFishMan]

Wow this is a pretty cool DIY project. Anyway to attach these to 3/4" locline?

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9760441#post9760441 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FloridaFishMan
Anyway to attach these to 3/4" locline?

Hmmmm... Let me get back to you on that one...

[sfsuphysics]

yeah I got the locline blues too, of course it'd be nice if the threaded piece could fit on either side.

[ivgonmad]

bump...

[thriceanangel]

I wonder what would happen if you put one of these on a maxi mod?

[ivgonmad]

You could maybe replace the maxi mod with one of these on the outlet nozzle of the powerhead.

[JCTewks]

you could try...but eductors are meant for pressure pumps, which a maxi jet is definitely not.

[OZreefhead]

haha very nice idea, and the flow increase looks great on your vid, but it;s hard to understand all the parts ur using since ur from the US. I'll try to interprate anyway

thnx

[OZreefhead]

oh and another thing if u put a SWCD on my CL pump which decreases flow by 20% then used 2 eductors on the outlets would i gain the 20% or even more back??

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9778665#post9778665 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JCTewks
you could try...but eductors are meant for pressure pumps, which a maxi jet is definitely not.

Like I said in the first page of the thread, these eductor do not require as much pressure from the pump as the commercially available versions but I would still only try with a MJ 1200, if you need less water movement than a MJ1200 can deliver then you don't need eductors.




<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9779181#post9779181 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by OZreefhead
oh and another thing if u put a SWCD on my CL pump which decreases flow by 20% then used 2 eductors on the outlets would i gain the 20% or even more back??

Yup, thats what should happen:), you should have a gain of at least 2x the flow.

[tkeracer619]

This is pretty cool. I am going to give it a try to see how it works with my dart and OM

[OZreefhead]

thats awsome; No more expensive OM wavemaker

yay thnx heaps

[ivgonmad]

Glad its working for you guys!!

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9783712#post9783712 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by OZreefhead
thats awsome; No more expensive OM wavemaker

yay thnx heaps

Did you use the parts I used? Can u get pics of your eductor I am just curious of how you made it if it is different from mine.

:)

[zeusfc]

Nice piece of work... I've been looking at doing something similar, using a 3/4" thread to 3/8" hose barb to "pinch" the flow before the vacuum area... these look far easier!

but, does anyone know how these things can be made "nenny-safe"? I was looking at doing just one suction inlet, and taking the feed from my behind my wier, but if there's an easier way...

[ivgonmad]

If you go down to 3/8" hose barb you will definitely need a high pressure pump to get the same results.

You could always make a series of tiny 1/4" holes instead of the 1/2" holes. That should make it pretty safe for 'nems.

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9780815#post9780815 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tkeracer619
This is pretty cool. I am going to give it a try to see how it works with my dart and OM

Please post your results :)

[marino420td]

I am having a hard time following your drawings in the other thread. Could you (or someone) post picturs of the individual parts and the construction process?

I don't mean to be a pain but I really want to try this. Thanks.

[fat-tony]

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1049353&highlight=scwd+finally


hmm, wonder how it would work on my scwd

[marcrunner]

are 1/2" eductors available anywhere?

[chris wright]

ivgonmad,

can you post some pictures of the actual parts that you have used. Ive seen similar fittings, but im not sure of a couple of the drawings. Most of the fittings I have found have a nut for tighening, So im trying to find a way to vary your design to suit whats available in Australia.

Any help would be good. Its a great idea, so im going to give it a go if I can find the parts. Thanks mate. :)

[OZreefhead]

havnt made it yet but i showed dad all the pieces u stated and he said he could get them no worries- since he is a plumber lol- as soon as i make one i will post pics.

[ivgonmad]

oops...

[ivgonmad]

<ahref=showthread.php?s=&postid=9786018#post9786018 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by marino420td
I am having a hard time following your drawings in the other thread. Could you (or someone) post picturs of the individual parts and the construction process?

I don't mean to be a pain but I really want to try this. Thanks.

Yes I will do that soon. :)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9786056#post9786056 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fat-tony
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1049353&highlight=scwd+finally


hmmm, wonder how it would work on my scwd

Should work better than a 2 outlet manifold with constant and equal pressure.

The alternating effect the SCWD generates between the two return lines causes the pressure to rise and drop between the two lines so at moments your eductors will put out a huge amount of flow and the eductor will be highly efficient.

When the pressure switches to the other eductor, the first one will lose pressure and therefore the firs eductor will lose effectiveness but the eductor on the other side will be working very efficiently with the gained pressure.

So, if you can imagine, you will have strong alternating bursts of flow coming from each eductor which should give you a very nice back and forth wave movement :)


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9786138#post9786138 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by marcrunner
are 1/2" eductors available anywhere?

Commercial eductors are available as small as 3/4" as far as I know.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9790455#post9790455 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chris wright
ivgonmad,

can you post some pictures of the actual parts that you have used. Ive seen similar fittings, but im not sure of a couple of the drawings. Most of the fittings I have found have a nut for tighening, So im trying to find a way to vary your design to suit whats available in Australia.

Any help would be good. Its a great idea, so im going to give it a go if I can find the parts. Thanks mate. :)

Yup, will do.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9790465#post9790465 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by OZreefhead
havnt made it yet but i showed dad all the pieces u stated and he said he could get them no worries- since he is a plumber lol- as soon as i make one i will post pics.

Awesome, please post pics and part numbers for all those in Australia.

[ivgonmad]

I guess I can just post the whole thing here....

Here ya go!!!

[ivgonmad]

<b><i>This is a re-post from another forum so ignore the initial explanation....</b></i>

Anybody ever use an Eductor on their return outlet?

They are supposed to increase water movement by 2x-5x.

Just made me a couple out of 1.5" Black PVC and they seem to work way too good . I have sand dunes moving all around my 90g tank, before I just had two 500gph returns that made a very low amount of flow. With the eductors it is a lot better, seems like at least a 3x increase in flow (~1500gph per outlet) and it gave me a widely dispersed flow from the return instead of the normal jet that can be dangerous for soft corals if placed too close.

I am using a Little Giant MDQX-SC rated at 1100gph, split into two 3/4" outlets at a 4' head which gives me around 500gph per outlet. This pump is rated at 6.2 PSI or ~14ft max head, so I'm guessing that each of my two outlets has about 3 PSI (Not sure what that means but I'm sure it makes sense to someone...). A pressure rated pump is desired for the full effect, but even with low pressure pumps it seems to at least double the amount of water circulation.

I have two extras that were my practice prototypes, will trade for a couple frags if anyone interested.

Will post pics of my design and parts needed, everything is from HD or Lowes, and are less than $5 total.

ps. I might have to go BB if I cant get the flow to stop kicking so much sand around.


Here are the parts and any associated numbers:

*Item numbers are from Lowes in Eastlake, CA so not sure if they will be the same anywhere else, model numbers should works at any store. I got everything for about $5.

1x 1 1/2" REDUCER COUPLING
- 1 1/2" INLET
- 1 1/4" OUTLET
- SLIP JOINT
- MANUFACTURER: DURACRAFT PLASTICS
- MODEL: 28WK
- ITEM*: 25017


1x 1 1/2" FEMALE ADAPTER ABS-DWV
- MODEL: C5803
- ITEM*: 22765


1x 1 1/2" COUPLING ABS-DWV
- MODEL: C5801
- ITEM*: 22797


1x 1 1/2" X 3/4" BUSHING SPIGOT X FIPT
- MANUFACTURER: LASCO SCH 40
- MODEL: 438210RMC
- ITEM*: 22715


1x 1/2" BARB X 3/4" MALE THREAD NPT RISER FLEX ADAPTER
- MANUFACTURER: ORBIT Water Master
- MODEL: 37161
- ITEM*: 194541


1x 1" length of 1 1/2" ABS PVC (black) per Eductor


Instructions

Use these pics as reference (note: in this pic I have a 3/4" Slip x 3/4" FIPT adapter that connects the Eductor to my 3/4" return line, you need to id what adapter YOU need for your setup)

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t189/ivgonmad/Aquariums/Misc/CIMG0691.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t189/ivgonmad/Aquariums/Misc/CIMG0695.jpg

TOOLS:

Small Hack Saw for PVC
Hand Drill
7/16 Drill Bit
1/2" Drill Bit



Step 1

You take the 1/2" BARB X 3/4" MALE THREAD NPT RISER FLEX ADAPTER and cut off the barb leaving only about 1/4" of it.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t189/ivgonmad/CIMG0714.jpg

You take the 1/2" BARB X 3/4" MALE THREAD NPT RISER FLEX ADAPTER and attach it to the 1 1/2" X 3/4" BUSHING SPIGOT X FIPT adapter with the barb side going in first. Tighten the 1/2" Barb Adapter by hand until you can not tighten it anymore.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t189/ivgonmad/CIMG0715.jpg

If this step is done correctly you should have about 1/2" of the 3/4" male thread from the 1/2" barb adapter sticking out of the 3/4" threaded side of the 1 1/2" X 3/4" BUSHING SPIGOT X FIPT adapter.

Now take a 7/16" Drill bit and enlarge the hole of the 1/2" BARB X 3/4" MALE THREAD NPT RISER FLEX ADAPTER to this size.


Step 2

Take the 1 1/2" COUPLING and attach the configuration made in Step 1 to one of the sides with PVC Glue.

Drill 8 x 1/2" evenly distributed holes 1/2" away from the lip on the opposite side of the 1 1/2" COUPLING.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t189/ivgonmad/CIMG0716.jpg


Step 3

Take the 1 1/2" FEMALE ADAPTER and attach a 1" length of 1 1/2" ABS PVC to the non-threaded side and glue it together. You must make sure the PVC pipe is pushed in all the way so you only have 1/4" of PVC piping sticking out after you put it together, if its too long, cut it down or sand it down so there is only 1/4" sticking out.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t189/ivgonmad/CIMG0717.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t189/ivgonmad/CIMG0718.jpg

Step 4

Take the 1 1/2" REDUCER COUPLING, and remove the threaded ring and gasket that come with it and put them aside since they are not needed.

Take the configuration created on Step 3 with the threaded side up, take the 1 1/2" REDUCER COUPLING and attach them together with the nipple side of the 1 1/2" REDUCER COUPLING going in first into the 1 1/2" FEMALE ADAPTER.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t189/ivgonmad/CIMG0719.jpg

If done right, you should have the nipple from the 1 1/2" REDUCER COUPLING and the 1/4" lip of PVC on the same side of the 1 1/2" FEMALE ADAPTER.

[chris wright]

OZreefhead,

Can you do a detail of the parts that you you use and where you get them. Im going to try trade link and see what happens.

ivgonmad,

Thanks mate for the extra info. :)

[dwl]

ivgonmad,
Can you post pictures of each part? I just looked online at Lowes using the item numbers in the list, and only 2 of them show up. I am wanting to go get the parts, but I do not have a clear picture in my head of what I need.

I guess I will go to Lowes and look around and see if I can find something using the descriptions...
If you could post pics for each item that would be great!

Thanks,
David

[marino420td]

Ok, I went to Lowes today and bought all of the parts. Here are pictures of the parts for reference

From left to right:
barb, bushing spigot, coupling and female adapter.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5057.jpg

Reducer Coupling, front and back of package
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5062.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5063.jpg

All of the item #'s he gave matched up exactly to the items at my Lowes. Having the manufacturer of each part helped a lot.

The barb was found in the section for lawn irrigation systems.

The reducer coupling was found in the section for sink drains.

The rest was in the pvc aisle. White pieces regular pvc, black pieces ABS.

I plan to start construction tonight and will take more pictures. Hope this helps.

[chris wright]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9796429#post9796429 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by marino420td
Ok, I went to Lowes today and bought all of the parts. Here are pictures of the parts for reference

From left to right:
barb, bushing spigot, coupling and female adapter.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5057.jpg

Reducer Coupling, front and back of package
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5062.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5063.jpg

All of the item #'s he gave matched up exactly to the items at my Lowes. Having the manufacturer of each part helped a lot.

The barb was found in the section for lawn irrigation systems.

The reducer coupling was found in the section for sink drains.

The rest was in the pvc aisle. White pieces regular pvc, black pieces ABS.

I plan to start construction tonight and will take more pictures. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the extra info as well marino420td. The pictures help alot. Just as a side note Lowes in Australia is a clothes shop :lol:
Hence my asking for the pictures.

Chris.

[marino420td]

One question. Did you cut down the bushing spigot before gluing it into the coupler? In your pictures and drawings, it looks like the lip of the bushing is right against the coupling. The bushing would have to be cut shorter to accomplish this.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5066.jpg

I don't see this anywhere in the instructions and I'm a little confused. Thanks.

[ivgonmad]

Thanks for posting those pics!!! Lots of people asking for them!!

[ivgonmad]

"I don't see this anywhere in the instructions and I'm a little confused"

Sorry dude, forgot that step, hehe I cut it with a hack saw... Then I glued that to the other piece! :)

Sorry, I think thats the only step I forgot :eek:

[gman0526]

That's great. I did use one on my tank a while ago, but I used the instructions from Geoff's site (The Mantled Monster).

http://themantledmonster.thereeftank.com/ediy.html

ivgonmad, kudos to u for bringing this to our attention and nice DIY project like I said b4.

[marino420td]

Here is a pictorial of the entire construction process.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5068.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5069.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5070.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5072.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5071.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5074.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5075.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/mini-IMG_5080.jpg

I will not leave it like that in my tank. But I didn't have to proper pvc parts to install it correctly.

[DrBDC]

Well how's the flow from it?

[marino420td]

I was wondering when someone would ask. I really can't tell yet. My CL that it is hooked to has 4 other outlets so most of the flow goes through them. I need to make another to hook up them plug the rest of the outlets to test them. Ran out of time tonight.

[ivgonmad]

Good job, came out nicely!

You can screw in the reducer coupling all the way in too, so it doesn't show the white thread!

What kind of pump are you using and how much water and height can it handle?

4 Eductors is a lot of flow.

[marino420td]

I can't get the reducer coupling all the way in. The threads are too tight and I can't grip it.

My CL pump is a sequence Dart. I'm thinking of just having two eductors and closing off the other outlets.

[Saltcreep1]

Hmmm... is it just me or is there something fishy with the physics involved here.


I don't think an Eductor can increase flow.......it may change the flow....but it is not adding any energy.

They may be very good at mixing fluids ....but I can't see how it can increase your GPH of water.

[DrBDC]

It actually wouldn't increase overall kinetic energy. Energy in=energy out subtract loss due to heat, resistence, etc. But, it would decrease volume and width at the pump outlet with an increase in velocity and lower volume. Then in exchange it draws from the sides which might make more "movement" or rather the surrounding area water moves which makes better flow patterns in the water. ie. decrease dead spots on the sides of the eductors. I know, I'm a little rusty on physics but you get the general idea.

[ivgonmad]

I does not increase the effectiveness of the pump or the amount of GPH pumped, it increases water flow by re-circulating water that is already in the tank using the power of the water being pumped into the eductor.

It uses the energy from the jet coming from the pump to drag in to the eductor up to 5x the amount of water that is actually being pumped.

For example... If you are pumping 500gph... Your eductor will displace up to 2000gph from within the tank + 500gph that are coming from the pump.

[Saltcreep1]

Ok...I can buy that.

It is a way of directing flow more efficiently.


I would still like to see some kind of real numbers before I take down my B.S. flag.

:D

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9799554#post9799554 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by marino420td
I can't get the reducer coupling all the way in. The threads are too tight and I can't grip it.

My CL pump is a sequence Dart. I'm thinking of just having two eductors and closing off the other outlets.

Try some silicone lubricant or/and some pliers to get it in all the way.

I think 2 eductor should be fine, If your tank is very long , you might want to see if your pump can handle a 3rd or all 4 eductors.

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9802059#post9802059 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Saltcreep1
Ok...I can buy that.

It is a way of directing flow more efficiently.


I would still like to see some kind of real numbers before I take down my B.S. flag.

:D

Dude.... I'm just helping those who want to be helped, this thing works, you can see in the video that its working...

If you are not convinced go and make one for yourself ($5 aint gonna make your poor), buy a flow meter, and attach it to the eductor somehow and show us your results.

I don't need to prove anything to you or anyone, I am sharing this here because I thought others could benefit form my DIY version of a commercially available product that I thought needed some tweaking to work better for us, if you don't want to try it its ok with me.

Just don't go saying that this is bull if you don't even know or understand how it works.

[Pbrown3701]

I use an eductor (purchased type) and i can vouch that it makes a HUGE difference in in tank flow compared to w/o the eductor. It easily doubled the flow in my tank by doing nothing more than screwing it on...

[Saltcreep1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9802162#post9802162 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ivgonmad
Dude.... I'm just helping those who want to be helped, this thing works, you can see in the video that its working...

If you are not convinced go and make one for yourself ($5 aint gonna make your poor), buy a flow meter, and attach it to the eductor somehow and show us your results.

I don't need to prove anything to you or anyone, I am sharing this here because I thought others could benefit form my DIY version of a commercially available product that I thought needed some tweaking to work better for us, if you don't want to try it its ok with me.

Just don't go saying that this is bull if you don't even know or understand how it works.



Oh jeeez...here we go......

Take it easy man. I'm not saying it doesn't work.

I am asking for some hard numbers to see how well it works.

Why? Because when you say:

"For example... If you are pumping 500gph... Your eductor will displace up to 2000gph from within the tank + 500gph that are coming from the pump."

That makes it sound like you have increased to waterflow in your tank from 500gph to 2500 gph just by adding this device.
Wouldn't that raise you BS flag?

A 500gph pump without an eductor is also moving much more the its 500 gph. The the water from the pump is transfering it's energy as it collides with tank water.

So.....


Before I run out to the harware store, I would like to know how much of an increase we are talking about.
If it's only a 1% increase it's not worth it to me.....
If it's a 50% increase I'll be the first one in line at Home Depot.



;)

[Saltcreep1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9802162#post9802162 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ivgonmad
Dude.... I'm just helping those who want to be helped, this thing works, you can see in the video that its working...

If you are not convinced go and make one for yourself ($5 aint gonna make your poor), buy a flow meter, and attach it to the eductor somehow and show us your results.

I don't need to prove anything to you or anyone, I am sharing this here because I thought others could benefit form my DIY version of a commercially available product that I thought needed some tweaking to work better for us, if you don't want to try it its ok with me.

Just don't go saying that this is bull if you don't even know or understand how it works.



Oh jeeez...here we go......

Take it easy man. I'm not saying it doesn't work.

I am asking for some hard numbers to see how well it works.

Why? Because when you say:

"For example... If you are pumping 500gph... Your eductor will displace up to 2000gph from within the tank + 500gph that are coming from the pump."

That makes it sound like you have increased to waterflow in your tank from 500gph to 2500 gph just by adding this device.
Wouldn't that raise you BS flag?

A 500gph pump without an eductor is also moving much more the its 500 gph. The the water from the pump is transfering it's energy as it collides with tank water.

So.....


Before I run out to the harware store, I would like to know how much of an increase we are talking about.
If it's only a 1% increase it's not worth it to me.....
If it's a 50% increase I'll be the first one in line at Home Depot.



;)

[Pbrown3701]

See my post above. I "easily" doubled the water flow in my tank from adding an eductor....go line up :)

[DirtySouth056]

ivgonmad, its people like you that try and HELP others, that make this place what it is..... and keeps me coming back to learn more about this hobby. :cool:

[chris wright]

Well im certainly going to give it a go. If at worst it doubles the flow thats good enough for me.

Ill be using a variation of the parts used, I looked at the link posted and when I went to the hardware, I couldnt find the exact parts, but theres one variation. The end piece reduces as part of the adaptor. Sort of like a batten holder light fitting, only not as exaggerated.

Ill post results as soon as I can make everthing up. Thanks again guys for the info and supporint pics. :)

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9803082#post9803082 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DirtySouth056
ivgonmad, its people like you that try and HELP others, that make this place what it is..... and keeps me coming back to learn more about this hobby. :cool:

Always happy to help.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9804451#post9804451 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chris wright
Well im certainly going to give it a go. If at worst it doubles the flow thats good enough for me.

Ill be using a variation of the parts used, I looked at the link posted and when I went to the hardware, I couldnt find the exact parts, but theres one variation. The end piece reduces as part of the adaptor. Sort of like a batten holder light fitting, only not as exaggerated.

Ill post results as soon as I can make everthing up. Thanks again guys for the info and supporint pics. :)

If it works right, LMK, always looking to upgrade the current version.

[ScubaTC]

Would this be worth trying on a Mag-Drive 36? Not sure how the pressure rating (high/low) is on this pump.

[ivgonmad]

Dude.......

That has just got to be a perfect match for any eductor, 24' max head and 3600gph maximum flow!!!

You could probably run 2-4 eductors depending on the size of your tank.

What is the size of your tank (dimensions) and how many outlets does your return manifold have?

[ivgonmad]

BTW in my 90g I am using a pump thats the equivalent to a Mag 12 (Little Giant 3-MDQX-SC 1100GPH 14ft max) split into 2 outlets w/eductors @ ~4ft height. Not a very strong pump compared to yours (Mag 36).

[surfjeepzx]

Here's some hard numbers that were asked for:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2003/review.htm

[ivgonmad]

Thanks for the link.

[ScubaTC]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9806841#post9806841 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ivgonmad
Dude.......

That has just got to be a perfect match for any eductor, 24' max head and 3600gph maximum flow!!!

You could probably run 2-4 eductors depending on the size of your tank.

What is the size of your tank (dimensions) and how many outlets does your return manifold have?

Tank is 6'x2'x2', 180gal. Right now there is only one return to the tank, but there's existing plumping and an extra output in the manifold for another return (use to run two Mag24s for the returns).

[DrBDC]

Here's some interesting information on them. I had this saved from when I sold a really high head pressure Iwaki pump and another reefer gave this link to help me sell it.

http://www.kthsales.com/website/Misc/hello_salt_water_enthusiasts.htm

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9812620#post9812620 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ScubaTC
Tank is 6'x2'x2', 180gal. Right now there is only one return to the tank, but there's existing plumping and an extra output in the manifold for another return (use to run two Mag24s for the returns).

I would try 3 if possible, one at each end and one in the center, that should be more than enough. But if you can only do 2, you might have to be careful, because the eductors will be quite powerful :eek:

[ivgonmad]

****

[ivgonmad]

I would try 2 on a moded scwd or even better, try 4 on an OM wavemaker, you would probably get an awesome back and forth wave movement with either one. :)

[OZreefhead]

What are the modded scwd's, is there a link to modding them??

thnx heaps:)

[ivgonmad]

i will try to find a link for you

[Fishboy1230]

They are the regular scwd with larger imput and output holes with increased switch time. I cant find the thread link.....

[zeusfc]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9815536#post9815536 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by OZreefhead
What are the modded scwd's, is there a link to modding them??

thnx heaps:)

Oh, there's loads of links... just use the search for "SCWD" and they all come up,

[DrBDC]

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=843091&highlight=scwd+and+mod

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=815716&highlight=scwd+and+mod

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1058338&highlight=scwd+and+mod

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=959490&highlight=scwd+and+mod

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=845649&highlight=scwd+and+mod

[spankey]

So let me get this straight and correct me if I am wrong? These just slip over your return LOC line? Any links to buy them directly and not DIY? Would this increase my output from my LOC line returns? If so I am game.

Thanks
Spankey

[Pbrown3701]

no, they're made to fit standard PVC plumbing (either threaded or slip). you would need to remove your loc line output

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9834756#post9834756 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Pbrown3701
no, they're made to fit standard PVC plumbing (either threaded or slip). you would need to remove your loc line output

Yeah, sorry haven't found a way to attach this to locline yet.

Not sure if it would be able to hold it in place anyways.

[jsshark1]

got all my parts today, I got to give it a try on one of my tanks

[fishnfst]

Is the abs safe for potable water use?

[hahnmeister]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9757595#post9757595 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ivgonmad
Oceans Motions.... This should work as long as you have them on every outlet so that they pressure is equalized throughout the lines and the water has no easy exit.

You should get an amazing wave action if you get this on your ocean motions working with the eductors and an appropriate pump. :)

So, please try it with eductors on all outlets and LMK if you like the results. I am very interested in hearing what happens.

Thats a common misconception... the problem is that when the flow in one outlet is cut, the pressure is cut as well (pressure and flow go hand in hand). So you will have a drum that is constantly subject to rising pressure on the opened outlets, and dropping pressure on the closed outlets. Thats what stresses out the drum/motor.

The only way to make the pressure equal in all of the outlets at once is to have them all the same at once... defeating the purpose of the OM then...

[ivgonmad]

No need to have pressure equal on all outlets...

Its perfectly ok for the pressure to alternate and to go up and down.

He was having a problem with his setup in which he had eductors on some of his outlets on not on others so he was losing pressure thought the open outlets. I just advised him that the eductors would work better if he didn't give water an easy exit and put eductors on all his outlets so pressure could build up.

Just making sure it was clear that you can use these on SCWD's and OM wave makers no problem.

[ivgonmad]

Sweet! :)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9835792#post9835792 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jsshark1
got all my parts today, I got to give it a try on one of my tanks

[hahnmeister]

Well, if the pressure on the active outlets is too high (and the closed outlets is close to 0), the drum will click, get stuck, or not even function.

The OM is best used in free-flow situations.

Also, this whole idea of an eductor that doesnt increase pressure so much as flow or whatever is not 100% accurate. As I said before, pressure and flow are related... you cant increase velocity w/o increasing pressure. What we have here is an eductor, yes, but rather than creating loads of back pressure, the opening is larger to allow for more flow, yes... but the result will not be the 5x increase in flow like with the eductors that create more back pressure. Because of these being 'lower pressure' eductors, you will most likely only see a 2x increase in flow. Its a tradeoff game in the end...

[OZreefhead]

thnx for the links

[zeusfc]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9836123#post9836123 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fishnfst
Is the abs safe for potable water use?

Oh, please don't let this thread deteriorate into a PVC v ABS tirrade!

Plain and simple yes, but saltwater will absorb impurities from pretty much ANY material that surrounds it except pure glass.

Do your waterchanges, skim your tank well (as you should be doing anyway) and in 99.99% of tanks you'll have no problems from using ABS, PVC or UPVC of any grade.

IMO, most pipework/waterquality problems are caused by grubby plumbers rummaging through the pipe fittings at the DIY store, and not by the release of toxins from the actual plastic, into the water! If you are in any doubt, leave them for a week in double-strength saltwater to "release the toxins".

[john f]

FWIW,
I used two 1.5" eductors on my Oceans Motion 4 way for several years.
No problems.

John

[BrainBandAid]

I remember the huge eductors we used in fire fighting in the Navy, they would almost rip your arm off if you stuck it in the eduction port...
From what I remember, the (single) port was angled toward the outlet. Do you think drilling the holes at an angle (down towards the outlet, like a "wye") would reduce the resistance and give you a little more flow? Probably not much at this size, but if it doesn't hurt, why not?

[jsshark1]

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/144996dyi1.jpg

their is mine :D

I added a tip not that it needed it,
that is what happens when you drill at 11:30pm Saturday,
I drilled the wrong part at first :rollface:

I could not get the reducer all the way in, I had a couple of threads exposed,
I grinded down the adaptor that i drilled, down till I had only a couple of threads left,
and this is what I ended up with, I have it on a wave motor going back and forth.

thanks I have much better water movement in my tank

[ivgonmad]

is that a little swirl at the top of the water from the eductor sucking up water?

[jsshark1]

yes it is :eek2: , good eye, it spits out a couple of bubbles every couple of min, that show you that it is adding lots more water in to the jet stream, I do have to say, to me it made a big difference in my water flow

[Jester]

how do you think these would work on my return plumbing..?? I have a mag 7 with SCWD plumbed in... I need some more flow and would rather not add another powerhead in the tank... Thanks..

Jester

[jsshark1]

I am running a mag 12 with a sea swirl that swing it back and forth.

[CyclistMT]

Well, I tried this a couple of days ago and put one of these on my return which is an old worn out Quiet One pump (the old school external only ones). I will be replacing this pump in time but, I digress....

Anyway, it did increase the flow I was getting and I was impressed enough that I decided to build four more for my Oceans Motions effluents. I have two of my OM outputs going to my surge tubs and the other two to a four outlet manifold so I wasn't worried about creating too much back pressure and the drum is turning just fine.

That further reinforces the theory that we are not creating a lot of extra pressure with this type of eductor.

I have to agree with Hahn that we're not likely seeing 5x increase in flow, however.....

1.5" Female Adapter= $0.62
1 1/2" x 3/4' Bushing= $0.95
1.5" Coupling= $0.47
3/4" Male NPT x 1/2" Barb= $0.53
1 1/2" x 1 1/14" Reducer= $1.98

Doubling my flow for $4.55= Priceless

[JJFly]

Maybe I missed it... could you please post the idiots guide to building the eductor?

A step by step in terms I could grasp... Please.... :D

[ivgonmad]

You can find instructions here:

http://seahobby.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1176700364

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9838521#post9838521 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BrainBandAid
I remember the huge eductors we used in fire fighting in the Navy, they would almost rip your arm off if you stuck it in the eduction port...
From what I remember, the (single) port was angled toward the outlet. Do you think drilling the holes at an angle (down towards the outlet, like a "wye") would reduce the resistance and give you a little more flow? Probably not much at this size, but if it doesn't hurt, why not?

It could help, I will try that when I build another one. :)

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9844422#post9844422 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jester
how do you think these would work on my return plumbing..?? I have a mag 7 with SCWD plumbed in... I need some more flow and would rather not add another powerhead in the tank... Thanks..

Jester

I think that might be too small of a pump to get a big difference in flow but it will at least double your flow.

Give it a try and keep us posted with your results :)

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9849164#post9849164 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CyclistMT
Well, I tried this a couple of days ago and put one of these on my return which is an old worn out Quiet One pump (the old school external only ones). I will be replacing this pump in time but, I digress....

Anyway, it did increase the flow I was getting and I was impressed enough that I decided to build four more for my Oceans Motions effluents. I have two of my OM outputs going to my surge tubs and the other two to a four outlet manifold so I wasn't worried about creating too much back pressure and the drum is turning just fine.

That further reinforces the theory that we are not creating a lot of extra pressure with this type of eductor.

I have to agree with Hahn that we're not likely seeing 5x increase in flow, however.....

1.5" Female Adapter= $0.62
1 1/2" x 3/4' Bushing= $0.95
1.5" Coupling= $0.47
3/4" Male NPT x 1/2" Barb= $0.53
1 1/2" x 1 1/14" Reducer= $1.98

Doubling my flow for $4.55= Priceless


Glad to hear you guys are benefiting from these things!

:)

How much GPH are you pushing through each eductor?

How much of an increase do you think you got from the eductors?

What size tank do you have?

Sorry so many questions hehe :)

[zeusfc]

[violation]

[CyclistMT]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9850204#post9850204 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ivgonmad
Glad to hear you guys are benefiting from these things!

:)

How much GPH are you pushing through each eductor?

How much of an increase do you think you got from the eductors?

What size tank do you have?

Sorry so many questions hehe :)

My tank is 150 gal and my build thread can be found here:

My build thread (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1037854)

I'm running a Sequence Snapper on my closed loop but I have only two outputs of my OM going to my closed loop manifold. The other two outputs are connected to my surge tubs. My closed loop has four effulents so I would estimate (very roughly) that each one is seeing about 300 GPH raw give or take a few gallons. If I've doubled that, then I'm completely happy but I'm not really sure how much it's increased. Suffice it to say I increased my flow using these DIY eductors for just a few dollars and that can't be all bad.

Thanks for for the idea and instructions ivgonmad! It's been a great success!

[Jester]

I went to HomeDepot looking for parts last night... I couldn't seem to find everything so I didnt buy any of the pieces.. heheheee... I am going to stop by Lowes tonight since thats where you bought your pieces and see if they have the same item numbers... that will help make sure I get the right parts...

[ivgonmad]

Hope you have better luck at Lowes.

If not LMK I can post a link where you can get most if not all the parts.

[veurli]

HD sux !!! Lowes is allways so much better !

[Jester]

I'm going to go by Lowes tonight or tomorrow... I have to plumb a new skimmer Friday (AquaEuro 135), so I'll probably redo all the plumbing then and hook up the two eductors... I still need to figure out how I am going to build the j-tubes and mount them to the back of the aquarium... anyone have any pics of this part of their plumbing..?? I just have store bought j-tubes with vinyl tubing now, so I need to build new ones... Thanks again...

Jester

[Demeter]

I went to Lowes today and they only had one part in stock. Anyone have extra parts?

[marino420td]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9870499#post9870499 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Demeter
I went to Lowes today and they only had one part in stock. Anyone have extra parts?

Most of the parts are common plumbing supplies. You can probably find them at a local hardware store (ACE Hardware) or plumbing supply house. Worth checking so you don't have to wait.

[kookerson]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9870499#post9870499 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Demeter
I went to Lowes today and they only had one part in stock. Anyone have extra parts?

personally....I had a really hard time finding the reducing coupler........had to drive over an hour away to find a Lowes that had them!

[ivgonmad]

I guess the Lowes here in CA is a very busy one so they have lots of everything, I can get a bunch of parts and ship them out to people if worse comes to worse.

[zeusfc]

reducing couplers are used all the time with irrigation piping... if you have an agricultural store, try them.

[Jester]

I was able to find everything except the reducing coupler(they were sold out)... I am going to go to another Lowes and look later... or home depot, now that I know what and where to look... I didnt realize how big these things are... I hope they are not too big for my 25 gallon tank... I may only use one...

Does anyone know if there is a way to make a smaller nano-version of this design for smaller tanks..?? If not, I may tackle the challenge after I build a original one first...

Jester

[bbeck4x4]

I built two of them during my lunch hour, way better than the lockline nozzles that had been there,
3600 gph on 4 outlets, if I close the other two down at all they start pulling air from the top of the water, way better and random flow, corals are doing great

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9876795#post9876795 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jester
I was able to find everything except the reducing coupler(they were sold out)... I am going to go to another Lowes and look later... or home depot, now that I know what and where to look... I didnt realize how big these things are... I hope they are not too big for my 25 gallon tank... I may only use one...

Does anyone know if there is a way to make a smaller nano-version of this design for smaller tanks..?? If not, I may tackle the challenge after I build a original one first...

Jester

One should be just fine in a 25g tank. I have 2 in a 90g :eek:

What return pump are you using I?

Smaller versions are possible but will most likely need higher pressure pumps to perform as good.

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9877711#post9877711 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bbeck4x4
I built two of them during my lunch hour, way better than the lockline nozzles that had been there,
3600 gph on 4 outlets, if I close the other two down at all they start pulling air from the top of the water, way better and random flow, corals are doing great

Awesome!! Must be an SPS tank :eek:

[Jester]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9878057#post9878057 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ivgonmad
One should be just fine in a 25g tank. I have 2 in a 90g :eek:

What return pump are you using I?

Smaller versions are possible but will most likely need higher pressure pumps to perform as good.

I am using a MAG7 return pump and I have it split with a SCWD... I was planning on building one for each outlet of the SCWD... does this sound ok..??

I have all the parts except the reducer coupler... I am going to a plumbing store tomorrow to see if they have it there... also, where do you use the plain abs piping at..?? The parts list calls for a 1" piece of 1 1/2" ABS piping, but I didn't see it in all the assembly pictures... Thanks again everyone..

Jester

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9878570#post9878570 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jester
I am using a MAG7 return pump and I have it split with a SCWD... I was planning on building one for each outlet of the SCWD... does this sound ok..??

I have all the parts except the reducer coupler... I am going to a plumbing store tomorrow to see if they have it there... also, where do you use the plain abs piping at..?? The parts list calls for a 1" piece of 1 1/2" ABS piping, but I didn't see it in all the assembly pictures... Thanks again everyone..

Jester

A Mag 7 on a SCWD should be plenty for a 25g tank :) I'm just not sure if the eductors are gonna take up too much space in a tank that size.

Here is a better set of instructions:

http://seahobby.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1176700364/12#12

You are looking for <b>Step #3</b>

Good Luck!

[bbeck4x4]

the tank is partly sps with softies as well, one eductor in each back corner, moved plenty of sand around at first, now it has settled down.

I would recommend these to anyone.

[ivgonmad]

sweet... :)

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9760441#post9760441 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FloridaFishMan
Wow this is a pretty cool DIY project. Anyway to attach these to 3/4" locline?


Just found the answer for all of you with the Lockline blues :)

http://www.modularhose.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=61514&Category_Code=6

Attach a threaded adapter to one end and attach the Eductor to that!

[raddogz]

cool beans

Thanks!

[marino420td]

I just received those same adapters (only in black) and used them to attach to locline. It works great and they are fully adjustable. Now I just have to make several more for my CL.

[ivgonmad]

I wish somebody had a flow meter I could borrow... It would help me a lot trying to figure out what the ideal pressure is for these eductors.

[raddogz]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9901215#post9901215 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by marino420td
I just received those same adapters (only in black) and used them to attach to locline. It works great and they are fully adjustable. Now I just have to make several more for my CL.

Where did you get those black adapters from?

[Worldwithin]

I just installed a pair of these on my return and, granted I didn't have the same barbed connecter that was listed, I am not seeing much improvment on the output. I will try to locate the barbed part at a local hardware store to see if that changes anything. Sad part is, there is no Lowes local to me at all. Closest one is at least 30 miles from where I live. I do have Home Depot's and OSH's all over, but no Lowes.

*sigh*

:fish1::hammer:

[raddogz]

Try the OSH for the barb as I know that they sell it.

[Worldwithin]

All the barbs at the OSHs around be only sell a 1/2 to 1/2, no 3/4 to 1/2. Granted I may not be looking in the right place for them too.

:fish1::hammer:

[raddogz]

3/4" hose barb SSF Osh

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9915966#post9915966 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Worldwithin
I just installed a pair of these on my return and, granted I didn't have the same barbed connecter that was listed, I am not seeing much improvment on the output. I will try to locate the barbed part at a local hardware store to see if that changes anything. Sad part is, there is no Lowes local to me at all. Closest one is at least 30 miles from where I live. I do have Home Depot's and OSH's all over, but no Lowes.

*sigh*

:fish1::hammer:

The barb is normally located in the sprinkler section, they should have it anywhere they have irrigation supplies, good luck :)

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9915770#post9915770 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by raddogz
Where did you get those black adapters from?

The link I provided lets you choose between black, orange, and grey. :)

[ivgonmad]

This is a good source for some if not all of the needed parts :)

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/

[Psionicdragon]

One question: do I need to increase the pvc parts to the next dimension for a 1.5 inch return pvc pipe line?

I understand what you said for the 1 inch, but now I found out that I need to use 1.5 inch all around with the dart.

[ivgonmad]

:p

[ivgonmad]

No, you dont, you only have to find an adaptor that will connect the 3/4" thread on the hose barb adapter to your 1 1/2" return line.

I'm sure there are 3/4" to 1 1/2" reducer couplings or plugs that will do that job.

[Psionicdragon]

oh nice. I thought you have to increase the size of the Ivgonmad's educator because of the increase size in return pipe.

this makes it a lot easier.

Thanks,

Ivgon

[DriftRtist]

Hey, I had a question for you guys. I have already built the educator but I noticed that I can't have a siphon break hole in my return line. So is the only option to have it on a 90 fitting close to the surface? If this is the case, won't it shoot water everywhere when you first turn it on?

[ivgonmad]

I use 2x 45* elbows which gives me a lot of options in how I want to direct the flow but you can also use Lockline flex adapters and have total control of the direction of the water flow.

[DriftRtist]

So are you pointing the educator down into the tank? I want to point mine down into the tank, but it's going to siphon too much water back into my sump.

[ivgonmad]

If you take a look at the video in the instructions, you will see how I have mine set up :)

[kookerson]

Just thought I would post another vote for these things. I JUST got done setting up my system, and with an Ocean Runner 3500 with a head of 4 feet, this thing is pushing out ATLEAST 4x the amount of water as it did without the eductor on there.....thanks for the great thread!

[ivgonmad]

Cool :p

[ultra spikey]

i just went to Lowes, I found everything but the barb fitting and 1 1/2" reducer. Anyone wanna make one for me? i'll pay

[johno4]

Hey I thought you guys might find this interesting, it looks a little easier and smaller than what weve been doing here. Plus its on loc line.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1132785

[noteworthy]

http://themantledmonster.thereeftank.com/ediy.html

I used these plans for my eductors. very easy to make.. use krylon fusion paint and let it dry for a couple of days.. solid black and cheap eductors!

[Psionicdragon]

ANyone in the bay area, ca that has found the reducer couplings? I can't seem to find it at HD, Osh, or Lowes.

[conefree]

Thanks for the thread, ivgonmad. Heading to Lowe's when I get off work in a few hours. We use this exact concept in our boiling water reactors here to increase flow multiple times, and I was planning on using retail available eductors after upgrading my pump for pressure. Now maybe I don't have to. Looking forward to seeing some results. I have a Mag 12 pushing 2 1.5" outlets now into a 90 AGA. Hoping to maybe even get rid of my MJ mods, who knows??

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10093835#post10093835 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Psionicdragon
ANyone in the bay area, ca that has found the reducer couplings? I can't seem to find it at HD, Osh, or Lowes.

They are normally located in the sink/toilet plumbing area.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10094101#post10094101 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by conefree
Thanks for the thread, ivgonmad. Heading to Lowe's when I get off work in a few hours. We use this exact concept in our boiling water reactors here to increase flow multiple times, and I was planning on using retail available eductors after upgrading my pump for pressure. Now maybe I don't have to. Looking forward to seeing some results. I have a Mag 12 pushing 2 1.5" outlets now into a 90 AGA. Hoping to maybe even get rid of my MJ mods, who knows??

Have seen great results from MAG12 pumps :)

[BigJPDC]

Completed the build last night, after finally getting out to Lowes for the parts. Home Depot sucks.

I started with the threads here and quickly realized that this was way too big and heavy for my SeaSwirl return. So once I had the parts together I made some adjustments that made the overall length and weight less, but still allowing the jetting to work. All I really did was to leave out the coupling.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q180/BigJPDC/All%20Fish/Equipment/IMGP0371.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q180/BigJPDC/All%20Fish/Equipment/IMGP0370.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q180/BigJPDC/All%20Fish/Equipment/IMGP0380.jpg

Looks like a maxijet mod I have in a box somewhere.

Realistically, what I had before on the Sea Swirl was a 3/4" MT to 1" hosebarb fitting, so probably wasn't all that efficient, but - this thing is awesome. My Neon GSP on the opposite side of the tank is standing stright up, and I see sand everywhere moving around. All without changing the flow volume.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q180/BigJPDC/All%20Fish/Corals/IMGP0384.jpg

Since I painted everything black, it's really not all that conspicuous.
:) :)

jp

[tripinpn01]

this is OT but what do you guys use to paint your pvc?

[ivgonmad]

Looks good :)

[Psionicdragon]

As stupid as this may sound, is the reducer coupling necessary?

The reason why I asked is that I went to two different OSH, went to lowes, and HD. None of them had it.

[ivgonmad]

Not necessary but you will lose efficiency :(

[ivgonmad]

They normally have them in the sink/toilet plumbing area.

[BigJPDC]

exactly as ivan says - in the toilet repair section at Lowes, the exact bag was there as in this thread. If you research commercial fluid mixing eductors, you see they have a piece that looks like the reducer after the holes. Since I made mine smaller, I had to shave that piece down.

I use rust-oleum paint for plastics, many here also use krylon fusion.

Awesome mod! My water is even clearer now, I have a feeling I wasn't getting enough surface agitation, so wasn't skimming off as much organics as I needed to.

jp

[tripinpn01]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10108223#post10108223 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJPDC

I use rust-oleum paint for plastics, many here also use krylon fusion.

jp

cool deal. thanks!

[ivgonmad]

I might change the design a bit and do slits like on the maxi-mods instead of drilling the holes for the intake vents.

[Psionicdragon]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10108094#post10108094 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ivgonmad
They normally have them in the sink/toilet plumbing area.

Ya, I checked =/. I spent around 4-5 hours in the past few days looking for that specific part.

Oh well..

[ivgonmad]

Try to find a distributor for the manufacturer in your area, I gave part # and Manufacturer in the link for the DIY instructions.

[BigJPDC]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10110661#post10110661 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ivgonmad
I might change the design a bit and do slits like on the maxi-mods instead of drilling the holes for the intake vents.

Ivan - check this out. http://www.nciweb.net/tank.htm

Maybe opening things way up between the jet and the reducing coupler is better than slits or holes? We might not be playing in the same PSI as these guys, but more vents seem to be better.

jp

[ivgonmad]

Exactly what I was thinking, but I still would like to keep some sort of protection so my fish and other livestock dont get sucked in there easily :eek:

[BigJPDC]

lol - I forgot about that.

[mnash]

What sized pump would be required to run four eductors and get around 1000 gph (pump flow + added eductor flow)? Could you possibly build a low profile plastic mesh/cage around the intake holes to prevent fish from getting killed?

Thanks,
Mike

[ivgonmad]

The smallest I would even try is a Mag 9, on two eductors max.

Even if it only doubled your circulation that would be a lot more than 1000 gph.

What size tank do you have?

[mnash]

I have an 80 gallon with a 17 gallon sump and a 17 gallon fuge. The pump I have is a quiet one 3000 (780 gph). Would it not be a good idea to have an eductor in each corner? Are they adjustable, can you move them around and aim them at a certain spot? So you can paint them and put them in the tank?

[veurli]

I have a 40 breeder with a mag 9.5 (950 ghp) with two eductors and at the end of mine instead of that coupling thingy I just put a 45 degree so I can move it around and direct the flow to the center of the tank. It works WONDERS !!!!!

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10120918#post10120918 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mnash
I have an 80 gallon with a 17 gallon sump and a 17 gallon fuge. The pump I have is a quiet one 3000 (780 gph). Would it not be a good idea to have an eductor in each corner? Are they adjustable, can you move them around and aim them at a certain spot? So you can paint them and put them in the tank?

I would definitely try a larger pump if you want very strong flow, the quiet one 3000 is not very powerful but you will definitely see an increase in flow from the eductors.

2 eductors in a 80g good idea, depending on how you install them they can be fully adjustable, and yes they can be painted :)

[mnash]

How exactly do you suggest installing them? Pics?

Thanks,
Mike

[mnash]

If I incorporated a larger pump Quiet One 4000 (1000gph) it would give me atleast 28 tank turn overs per hour for my sump. I thought that you do not want very much flow through a sump because it reduces the efficiency of your skimmer.

[BigJPDC]

exactly - low flow through the sump, and high flow in the tank using closed loops and eductors.

[BigJPDC]

Here's what it's done to the corner nearest the eductor. I may try stacking up some LR rubble or soemthing. Also, my frogspawn hasn't opened fully since it's now in the blast zone, so I may need to rearrange my corals as well.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q180/BigJPDC/All%20Fish/Equipment/IMGP0425.jpg

This is an Eheim 1260, plumbed to 1" pipe to a 3/4" SeaSwirl, with the pump dialed back using a gate valve about 1/2 way. I would guess about 300gph by the time it hits the water, which never dug up my sand before.

jp

[johno4]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10125943#post10125943 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mnash
If I incorporated a larger pump Quiet One 4000 (1000gph) it would give me atleast 28 tank turn overs per hour for my sump. I thought that you do not want very much flow through a sump because it reduces the efficiency of your skimmer.

Adding an educator to add flow will not increase the flow going through your sump.

[mnash]

Exactly how much flow can you expect to gain from the use of eductors? Does their efficiency decline more if there are multiple eductors?

Thanks,
Mike

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10125839#post10125839 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mnash
How exactly do you suggest installing them? Pics?

Thanks,
Mike

Put them on Lockline on your return outlets.

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10127500#post10127500 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mnash
Exactly how much flow can you expect to gain from the use of eductors? Does their efficiency decline more if there are multiple eductors?

Thanks,
Mike


Number of eductors is determined by the pump you are using and the size of your tank.

[BigJPDC]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10125839#post10125839 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mnash
How exactly do you suggest installing them? Pics?

Thanks,
Mike

mine is on the previous page - screwed into the SeaSwirl outlet.

jp

[conefree]

ivgonmad,

I am curious about this part:

1x 1/2" BARB X 3/4" MALE THREAD NPT RISER FLEX ADAPTER
- MANUFACTURER: ORBIT Water Master
- MODEL: 37161
- ITEM*: 194541


I have made 3 trips to Lowe's, and walked pretty much every aisle and cannot find this part. I even had an employee look up their item number 194541, and it isn't in their system. Are the model and item numbers swapped perhaps? Either way, I cannot locate the part. I have found several things like it, but the hex portion is larger than the threads. Where in Lowe's did you find it? Thanks for the great design and helping me get rid of my powerheads :)

[johno4]

ivgonmad, I dont mean any disrespect and I dont mean to steal your thead this is a great diy find. I just dont get why, with the problems finding parts (I had a hard time also) why more people dont try the other diy educator that I posted a link for on page 7. I made both and the other is much easier.

[Fishboy93]

hello i'm fairly new to reef central and have been following this thread, i built two eductors for my 50G reef using a quiet one 4000 return pump and i didnt seem to get the results everyone else has had. i think the 1/4" nozzles i used may be too small and i think i am losing pressure through the syphon break hole in the pipe, i'm going to go to ace hardware and pick up some new 1/2" nozzles, but i was mainly wondering what to do about the siphon break hole, does everyone just put the eductors close enough to the water's edge to stop the siphon? any help would be greatly appreciated.

[ivgonmad]

is way too small, you need to make it 7/16"

I have them below the surface just enough so it doesn't take air in from the surface. You are definitely losing some pressure from the siphon break holes but once you do it how it says in the instructions and use the right parts you might have good enough results that you might not have to worry about the pressure loss from the siphon break holes.

You could also use a small check valve on the S.B. holes but test it many, many, many times to make sure it works!

[Fishboy93]

thank you for the help, i think i will plug up the siphon break and raise the eductors higher, also i've never seen 7/16" is 1/2" ok since its only 1/16 difference, also i agree 1/4" was wasy too small but i was following instrusctions on themantledmonster.

[ivgonmad]

use a 1/2 barb adpter and make sure you enlarge the inner diameter of the barb adapter to 1/2"

[BigJPDC]

conefree - they were tricky for me to find as well. All the Orbit Master stuff is in the irrigation section - bins full of parts to DIY pop up sprinklers, by the huge black pipes. I would try another Lowes, and they had almost none of this stuff at HD by me.

Fishboy - 1/4" sounds like your problem - isn't that what RO\DI tubing is? Sounds like you built a water jet. You could post pics of what you have, but I would go with at least 1/2".

Any design which shoots water past a bunch of holes and into a coned outlet will work - the parts that ivan listed are of the corret shape and size to just bolt together, and I modded mine to work with my SeaSwirls - whatever works for you is great.

jp

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10130361#post10130361 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by johno4
ivgonmad, I dont mean any disrespect and I dont mean to steal your thead this is a great diy find. I just dont get why, with the problems finding parts (I had a hard time also) why more people dont try the other diy educator that I posted a link for on page 7. I made both and the other is much easier.

Yes its smaller and easier to make but requires much more water pressure to work.

I have used them in the past and took what was good from that design and others I have seen and decided to put all that together in an easy to build eductor that performs better with the types of pumps we use in the hobby.

Sorry to hear you are having trouble but any plumbing supply house will have all these parts as they are commonly used in the plumbing trade.

[johno4]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10133747#post10133747 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ivgonmad
Yes its smaller and easier to make but requires much more water pressure to work.

I have used them in the past and took what was good from that design and others I have seen and decided to put all that together in an easy to build eductor that performs better with the types of pumps we use in the hobby.



can you explain this to me, I dont understand why the other method would need more water pressure. would drillind holes around the outsides like in your design help?

[BigJPDC]

johno - I saw your post in the other eductor thread. Doesn't the jet have to terminate before the inlets? Check out that link I posted - maybe that's why we're seeing better performance from this design. You're basically just putting a shroud around a water jet, but without a propeller like the maxijet mods, I don't see how you can pull as much or any water volume. You are just shooting water through a can.

If you look at our pics, you can see clear through the flow holes in the eductor and that's where the water is pulled into the stream.

Somebody more versed in fluid dynamics could chime in for us to be sure, but that's how I see it from researching commercial eductors.

jp

[ivgonmad]

Nicely said BigJPDC, but the reason his design is not working quite the same is because he is missing one of the most important part which is the reducing coupler.

[johno4]

BigJPDC - That makes sense. So with the design I used, I should drill 1/2 in holes after the point where the jet ends to help out my flow. I that correct?

ivgonmad - how does the reducer coupler increase the flow?

[BigJPDC]

I would give it a try - that's why the first step here is to cut that 1/2" barb down - see how it affects your design - the outlets on my closed loop are plumbed with 1/2" and I would give it a whack if you see good results.

The reducing coupler has the conical shape that I think we need, that's why it works.

jp

[ivgonmad]

You don't need the holes just add the reducing coupler to the setup.

It has to do with the shape and size of the coupler and how the jet from the outllet reacts when it hits the low pressure area created by the vents of the eductor.

[jstraka1]

O.K. I was thinking, in my post surgery drug induced stupor, why the heck not put one on a tunze nanostream and see what happens. 1 1/4 inch pvc snugly slides over the output of the nanostream with the help of a little teflon tape. So i made one out of 1 1/4 pvc and 1/2 inch pvc for the inside tube with rigid airline tubing to hold it all together. Took maybe 15 minutes, and slid it on the end of the stream and voila, I think it may have worked.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l51/jstraka1/IM003017.jpg
It is pretty ugly, but I think I may be on to something. Someone please try this and let me know how it works out.

[ivgonmad]

Eductors will not work very effectively with that type of pump since they generate almost 0 pressure. You might get better results if you shorten the inner pvc pipe

[JVJordan]

My few cents:

1. Great thread, thanks for starting it. I made my own design but they didn't work especially well. Ivgonemad's design seems to work better.

2. Eductors work on the same principle as venturis except instead of pulling air into the stream you are pulling water. The basis for both is Bernoulli's equation. Read about it here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernoulli's_principle

Basically, the constriction of flow (through the barbed adapter here) requires that the water speed up. Bernoulli's equation shows us that an increase in velocity is associated with a pressure drop. Thus the inside of our eductor nozzles are of lower pressure than the surroundings. This pressure difference draws in air, in the case of a venturi, or surrounding water, in the case of an eductor.

By using these eductors, the total water flow from your sump/pump to your tank is reduced (the outlet restriction results in greater friction losses). However, the total mixing of water within your tank is increased, somewhat dramatically if the things are well designed. I have to wonder how efficient these DIY types are compared to the prefab, computer designed, molded plastic kind.

3. Anyone know where to get the real ones cheaply? Best I've seen is $25 each.

[BigJPDC]

Cool to see some physics added here, thank you JV. I can't imagine this works unless the jet flows accross the inlets.
Again, look at the link I posted for the commercial mixing eductors. I would call that an optimal design, and they give 5:1 as their performance ratio. We will be getting less, but still a major victory for a small investment.
I turned down my return flow even more, to keep it from digging up the sand, and so I expect to be skimming more efficiently.

jp

[johno4]

JV is correct, this whole priciple is based on Bernoulli's priciple; Higher flow will cause a decrease in pressure in the surronding area. Molecules move from and area of higher pressure to areas of lower pressure. The diy educator I am using does work, I can see the water being pulled in from the opening in the back. I think it could be improved by drilling the holes in like how you all have been doing. I'll give it a try and keep you posted.

[Fishboy93]

these are the eductors i made, so far they work OK i think they did increase the flow but not to the extent of others, mine don't incorporate a reducing coupler, is this the reason why mine don't work as well? I am running two on a quiet one 4000

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a131/Fishboy93/DSCN0910.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a131/Fishboy93/DSCN0912.jpg

[ivgonmad]

I believe your are just fine as they are modifications of the more commonly used industrial design but they require a much more powerful pump to be effective like a high pressure pump.

[ivgonmad]

Here is the post to my original DIY instructions:

http://seahobby.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1176700364

[therman]

Just made one following the original directions exactly and it works GREAT! Well done ivgonmad, and thanks!

[Blackacid]

I'm trying this out today. Thanks for the thread.

[johno4]

I have one of your style on one outlet and one of the original ones I had on the other outlet of my closed loop. They are putting off pretty much the same flow. Pump is a mag 18.

I do not have a great way of testing flow by the way; Im just putting my hand in front of them. I cant feel any difference.

[ivgonmad]

You cant test them on the same line as they will have uneven pressure build up.

Try a pair and then another of the other design, then you will get a better idea of the difference in performance.

To tell you the truth, my first design did not include the reducing coupler, it wasn't until my third attempt at building them that I decided that I needed it, it took me a long time and research on the subject and other designs to get to my current design ;)

What? You think I just came up with this idea out of nowhere? LOL

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10154071#post10154071 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by therman
Just made one following the original directions exactly and it works GREAT! Well done ivgonmad, and thanks!

Glad its working for you!

[Blackacid]

ok, I'm of the opinion that finding all the parts is going to be the hardest part of this project. Lowes and THD both suck when it comes to plumbing and the organization of their parts.

[ivgonmad]

Look in toiltet/sinks plumbing section for the reducing coupler, the hose barb adapter is in the irrigation/sprinkler section, rest should be in the PVC section or the drain piping section for ABS (Black PVC)

[conefree]

Well I finally found the hose barb adapter. Sadly it took me stopping on my way back from New Jersey at a different Lowe's. Some other people might face the same reality, as apparently not all Lowe's stock those sprinkler parts. Your numbers and information are right on, ivgonmad!!! Thanks for the great project idea, I will be assembling them tomorrow :)

[ivgonmad]

Cool, LMK how it goes, post some pics :D

Ivan

[Southern Boy]

All I can say is wow.Regretfully I couldn't get the black abs but I figured I'd give it a wirl with white and if it worked I would paint them.Krylon makes a paint for pvc that is safe in the water.Well I turned off my powerheads and had to back the pressure down on my mag 24.Unbelievable the spots in my tank these hit that I wasn't getting to before with 2 3/4"returns that hads locelines on y's going 4 ways and to 802 powerheads.Great and quick diy.Thanks!!!http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w157/laddybugmnm/DSCF0304.jpghttp://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w157/laddybugmnm/DSCF0303.jpg

[ivgonmad]

Nice... I like them in white :D

[TOYTEK]

Did anyone ever try these on a Maxi Jet 1200? I saw where someone asked in the first few pages, but don't remember seeing any results. If not, I may try. I've just built some MJ mods, but I think they're gonna be too much for my daughters 35 hex. This looks like a simpler build as I've been tweaking my mods for two weeks, finally got one of them right.

[ivgonmad]

The only problem is attaching it to the output.

[ivgonmad]

I want to see some pics of these on Lockline, anybody?

The 45 elbows are a bit limiting in the angles you can point the Eductors...

[therman]

I put one on a MJ1200 as well, it does a decent job of decreasing velocity and increasing water volume movement. Not quite as dramatic as with a stronger pump though.

I just went 1/2" vinyl tubing from the output to 1/2" barbX 3/4"MPT fitting to 3/4" FPTXFPT coupling to the eductor and used plastic hose clamps on the ends of the tubing.

[ivgonmad]

Did you see a substantial enough increase that you would recommend using them on a small pump like the MJ1200?

[therman]

I'd say its worth it in a smallish tank where you don't want a "blast zone" of very high flow right in front of the MJ. If you put it in the back corner of a small tank behind the rock I think you'd get some great water movement.

[marino420td]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10213853#post10213853 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ivgonmad
I want to see some pics of these on Lockline, anybody?

The 45 elbows are a bit limiting in the angles you can point the Eductors...

Here is the one I made attached to Locline. Sorry the pics are not close ups but it is all I had for now.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/120%20Gallon%20Set%20Up/Full%20Tank%20Shots/mini-IMG_5838.jpg

End shot.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/marino420td/120%20Gallon%20Set%20Up/Full%20Tank%20Shots/mini-IMG_5783.jpg

I can point it in any direction I want with it attached to the Locline.

Now I just have to find the time to make 3 more.

[ivgonmad]

Looks good :)!

Why not try one of these instead of the 90 degree elbow?

http://www.modularhose.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=61514&Category_Code=6

[ivgonmad]

Oh, wait, nevermind I think you are using one on the 90 elbow already ...

[marino420td]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10235123#post10235123 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ivgonmad
Oh, wait, nevermind I think you are using one on the 90 elbow already ...

Yep. Couldn't figure out how to connect the eductor's male threads to the Locline without the elbow.

[ivgonmad]

A coupler that ha a 3/4" Female Thread on each side can join the eductor's 3/4" male thread to a 3/4" male threaded lockline piece :cool:

That 90 is robbing you of some valuable pressure :eek:

[Nammy]

Great thread!
Don't know how I missed it.

[MC Lighting]

I am thinking seriously about removing my seios and going with 4 of these I have a QO6000 anyone think this is enought to drive 4 of these?

[ivgonmad]

might not need 4, try 2 and see if that works, if you still need more add one more and so on.

OR 6000 should be ok to run at least 3

[MC Lighting]

I think I am going to rethink my circulation setup I like those that have the up front in gravel ports facing backwards I think I am going to run those as well as do some of these on 2 seperate pumps...

[ivgonmad]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10260732#post10260732 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MC Lighting
I like those that have the up front in gravel ports facing backwards...

HUh? what are you talking about? LOL

[MC Lighting]

Sorry did not know I sounded that confusing here is a picture of what I am talking about from earlier in the thread....

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q180/BigJPDC/All%20Fish/Equipment/IMGP0425.jpg

[ivgonmad]

ohhh! i see, thanks for clarifying, it sounds like a great idea!

[BigJPDC]

Cool - thanks! I saw this at an LFS and decided to do my plumbing the same way. The primary function is to keep anything from settling on the substrate, and it works awesome, my sand has always been clean.

Here's how it started:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q180/BigJPDC/All%20Fish/Equipment/IMGP7548.jpg

Other options are to sculpt some live rock to cover the outlets, or to glue GSP to them. I made sure they are 1" from the glass on all sides, so I can mag float around them. I have them pointing in the same direction, to get circular flow which keeps food from settling, and it's fun to watch the fish chase the food around the rocks.

HTH,
jp

[ivgonmad]

that looks great !

[MC Lighting]

that is about what I had in mind although I think I am gong to run 2 seperate lines down so that each side has its own line to give more flow and less preasure as I don't want to blow the corals everywhere just move a lot of water, although I am debating about even a 3rd outlet with twin locline output in the center of the tank at the front for even less dead spots. Then I will have the 2 existing mega flow outputs running from the chiller output on a seperate pump that will be part of the sump filtration loop. I have often wondered if I am moving too much water through the sump so I think I want to slow that down a bit and increase in tank flow with the use of the closed loop what do you all think?

[ivgonmad]

I'm sure 2 eductors and the manifold you already have installed on the bottom should be way more than enough for that tank :cool:

Remember that simple is better and makes the hobby more enjoyable!

[andbigdaddy2]

Hey can some one take a pic of each part or label each part in the pic because its hard to find anything in lowes iof you dont know what you are looking for the part numbers help but pic with labels would make it that much easier

[BigJPDC]

you mean like on page 2?

[hllywd]

Who would ever think of reading the thread??!!??:lol: :crazy1: :lol:

Tim:cool:

[andbigdaddy2]

I did the pic is not that great if you want to see each piece but thanks for pointing out the obvious you should work in Bush's cabinet.

[CKreef]

Was someone selling these on ebay?? I am interested in one but need a 3/4" one. Thanks Chris

[ivgonmad]

Not these, another design.