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FloridaFishMan
04/18/2007, 08:29 PM
This set-up moves 2 250w DE pendants about 27in back and forth. Here is a previous post discussing some of the benefits of such a system http://reefmonkey.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=9013


First thing that I did is laid 2 2x4's that will serve as the brace of the light system. The reason I used 2x4's is that I needed to elevate the lights a little more. (pictured are 1x4's but you get the idea)
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/rotti4130/IMG_2404.jpg
Next I took 1/2" PVC T-connectors and drilled a 1/4in hole to house 1/4in threaded bolts. These bolts will allow you to attach your lights to the pvc fittings. These fittings will then go over 1/2" metal conduit pipe (some applications may require 3/4" couplings)
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/rotti4130/IMG_2406.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/rotti4130/IMG_2407.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/rotti4130/IMG_2408.jpg
Next I make a bracket for the roller pully. This pulley is just there to keep the belt in place, the motor is on the opposite side. I used a piece of 1x4 cut down to 1x2. I then drilled a hole a little smaller than my 3/16in steel rod that fit the pulley perfectly so the pulley could rotate with little resistance. The motor was then also fitted with a pulley.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/rotti4130/IMG_2410.jpg[/img]
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/rotti4130/IMG_2409.jpg
Next the belt that was used is a helicopter tail rotor belt from a hobby shop. It is 27in long and has lots of teeth for great gripping. The gears that go with the belt were used as seen above. I tied and superglued heavy test mono-filament fishing leader to use as a way of attaching the belt to the lights. I used heavy test not because of the weight but because I didn't want it eventually cutting through the belt.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/rotti4130/IMG_2411.jpg
The motor and the guide pulley were moutned with the belt attached as far and tight as I could get them. The motor was fastened with conduit brackets and the guide pulley was fastened to the back of the canopy with 90 degree brackets.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/rotti4130/IMG_2413.jpg
The lights are then added to the T-connectors. The lights are spaced as desired and fastened together. I used a piece of 1" pvc pipe cut in to about 1/4 regular diameter. this should be glued using pvc solvent, in the photo I used zip ties as I didn't want to do anythhing permanent before I tested it. A stiff metal wire or something similar should be run between the pendants so that the lights can be attached at the middle to the fishing line. In the photo I used rope, this was just temporary to test, I am going to replace it with something a little more rigid. This should be connected with a fishing swivel to remove any winding of the fishing line.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/rotti4130/IMG_2414.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/rotti4130/IMG_2415.jpg
The motor is run by a 12v converter. It is adjustable and that is good because at 12v the motor moves the lights too fast and is loud. At 3v-4.5v the motor moves the lights more slowly and the motor is much quieter. I am running it in a canopy but I haven't put it on top of my tank yet. Once I put it on the tank I think the noise will be unnoticeable.
NOTES: Pipe should be oiled or greased so that the T's can slide easily.

2-3hr work time with some figuring and about 1-2weeks planning.
LMK what you think.
Chris

Urban_Squrill
04/18/2007, 11:13 PM
That is a very cool diy. I have never seen anyone diy a motorized light setup. How much did it end up running ya?

FloridaFishMan
04/19/2007, 07:19 AM
Thanks Urban. I couldn't find any diy motorized light setups either so I decided to try one and it works. It ended up costing me about $55.
motor-$16
belt-$12
variable voltage power supply-$12
2gears- $4
metal conduit-$3
extra stuff like brackets,pvc fittings, bolts etc-$8
If you already have a power supply you can knock of $12. I recommend no more than 4.5v, with every step above that the motor gets louder.

BTW the motor is a 12v 6rpm motor. IMO 6rpm is a little to fast to move the lights. So at 4.5v it runs about .5-1rpm. So maybe a smalller quieter motor could be used.

sgtcalypso
04/19/2007, 08:44 AM
that's a great DIY...can't wait to see it mounted:eek2:

shouldabenacowboy
04/19/2007, 08:46 AM
Pretty cool.....How long does it take for it to go from side to side??

SBC

FloridaFishMan
04/19/2007, 07:54 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9763514#post9763514 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shouldabenacowboy
Pretty cool.....How long does it take for it to go from side to side??

SBC
At 4.5V it takes ~6min and at 3v it takes ~10min per pass. The motor won't run on 1.5V. At 3V the motor is very quite and still has a surprising amount of power. More pics should be here this weekend.

FloridaFishMan
04/29/2007, 04:58 PM
Ok it is up and working. Here are some pics of the lights on each side and in the middle. The MH are the only lights running.
middle
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/rotti4130/IMG_2418.jpg
right
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/rotti4130/IMG_2417.jpg
left
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/rotti4130/IMG_2416.jpg

A couple of modifications I did is instead of the metal rod to hold the pulley I switched out with a wood screw so that the pulley is held in place and will not slip off. I also am going to try and replace the pvc T's that slide along the rail with utility rings from walmart. I think they are used for shower curtains. I placed about 15beads per ring. I am hoping these will act as bearings to allow the lights to move a little smoother. Pics to come later.

RicGio
04/29/2007, 08:25 PM
Pretty cool, but what are you simulating with the light moving a full cycle in 10 minutes? Don't you want to simulate the sun moving from east to west in a 12 hour time period?

FloridaFishMan
04/29/2007, 08:40 PM
I have done some research online and I have found that it is better to have the light pass more frequently than to have it pass every 12hrs. It benefits the tank by having the lights intensity distributed over the tank more equally. So all corals get the full power of the light. It also allows more areas to be hit by higher intensity light allowing more exposure to the underside of corals. This is done because the light is always moving and reflecting back off of the rocks and sand at every angle possible giving some light to the corals lower branches.
I answered more than you asked but I hope this makes my intentions a little more clear

RicGio
04/29/2007, 08:56 PM
gotcha. So you aren't out to simulate dawn to dusk, you are spreading the light around evenly. Nice work.

RandalB
04/29/2007, 09:56 PM
Where did you get the motor; if you don't mind me asking....

RandalB

FloridaFishMan
04/30/2007, 08:09 AM
This is where I got the motor. I run it at 3V and it is quiet and still has a good amount of power.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DCM-245/search/6_RPM_GEARHEAD_MOTOR_.html

Tang Salad
04/30/2007, 09:29 AM
Best DIY thread in a long time, thanks!

Seems very simple.

The motor only ever runs in one direction, right?

FloridaFishMan
04/30/2007, 10:09 AM
Thanks tang. Yes, the design is as simple as possible and the motor only runs in one direction. I wanted to see if I could get it to change directions by reversing the polarity with some type of switch but I am not electrical engineer so I came up with this design (which is probably much easier).

I am making a few minor changes to get it to run as smooth as possible. More pics of a semi-final product to come... eventually :).
LMK if anyone has anymore questions or suggestions.
Chris

neo1013
05/01/2007, 09:20 AM
the link from your first post does not work, can you please repost that link. I am very interested to read it.

perpetual98
05/01/2007, 10:54 AM
I bought an actual light mover off of ebay. I think it's called an Agramover. Cost about double what you spent, but it's rock solid and has been going without a hitch for close to 6 months. It has a 6rpm motor on it, but I bought a 2rpm motor off of ebay but have been too lazy to rip my canopy apart to try to put the motor in.

http://www.perpetualproducts.com/images/agramover.gif

That's a time-lapse of the setup over my 36" tank. It takes about a minute to go from side-to-side.

FloridaFishMan
05/03/2007, 07:51 AM
neo, I just checked the link and it works fine for me. Maybe it is because I am a member. Try it again and if it doesn't work I will help you get to it.

perp, that is a cool mover. I have seen people use those before, that is a pretty cool time lapse picture. How much did the 2rpm motor cost you? I can't find one for around $100 and that's why I wanted to build my own.

Update: The system has been running several days now without any problems! I have tweaked some little things and now it is running smooth. I will post pics soon.

perpetual98
05/03/2007, 09:12 AM
You'll love this, I paid $1 for the 2rpm motor off of ebay. I THINK it's going to be a direct bolt-on replacement of my agramover light, but I haven't gotten around to taking the mover out of my canopy.

FloridaFishMan
05/04/2007, 07:25 AM
$1 isn't much at all. So the motor is just going to replace the existing motor in the mover correct?

perpetual98
05/04/2007, 10:47 AM
Yeah, they're both motors made by a company called Hurst if I remember correctly. Now you guys are making me want to rip the canopy apart to swap the motors. lol

aninjaatemyshoe
05/04/2007, 07:41 PM
I run one just like perpetual and love it. It is a great solution to the major problem with MH - very uneven spread. Your diy is quite nice. Keep updating whether it lasts or not.