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RobbyG
05/14/2007, 01:18 PM
Just saw this on the Aquatronica web Site:

New Aquatronica products

Aquatronica is proud to present to the public its latest products, which will enrich the Aquarium Controller system by adding new and interesting functions.


* The new “Water leakage” interface (ACQ210N-WL) allows you to connect one or more leak sensors (ACQ320) to the system. These sensors are able to detect water leaks and implement a programmed course of action. This new sensor is an important step in the safety of your aquarium and also of your home!


* With the USB interface (ACQ222), the Aquarium Controller can download information, program system settings, and download and install the latest system updates all through a USB connection.


* The accessory kit ACQ425 is an extension set which simplifies the connection between the dosing pumps (ACQ450) and integrator containers.


See all the latest from Aquatronica in the products section of our site!

___________________

These items where on display at the Zoomark show last week.

Bebo77
05/14/2007, 03:29 PM
you getting one robby? so that if it goes off and you get a text you can run home.. lol

RobbyG
05/14/2007, 05:27 PM
I will definitely be buying two of the Leak detectors.
I already had a bad experience with a broken Ro hose. My $15 leak detectors where blaring away but no one was at home to hear them. At least with the AQ units I will be alerted at work if my house is flooding :)

dbond
05/14/2007, 06:05 PM
Any idea of pricing and availability.

RobbyG
05/14/2007, 06:07 PM
No info on the price, but they did say they would be available right after the show, so we should know soon.

jamesdawson
05/14/2007, 10:07 PM
Robby, can you further explain the other 2 things?

James

RobbyG
05/14/2007, 10:53 PM
James

The ACQ425 is a set of Silicone hoses and coupling connectors that work with the Dosing pump.

I have not seen what the ACQ222 looks like, or even read a good description but it SEEMS to be a replacement for the Serial Module. Basically a Aquatronica USB to regular USB converter.

jamesdawson
05/15/2007, 09:39 AM
Thanks Robby!

James

Captain Quirk
05/30/2007, 10:42 PM
Hey, Robby, did you notice that the water sensors will themselves need their own interface?

Great. Just. Great.

I'll bet the sensors will be, what, sixty bucks, and another seventy for the "interface"...

I just don't get it. I mean, it's a SWITCH... Water makes contact, value changes from 0 to 1. Simple.

I mean I just DON'T get it...

RobbyG
05/31/2007, 02:04 PM
I hope they are cheaper than that or i wont be buying one.
The water sensor is not just a switch, you have to have some electronics to detect a resistance change, then a circuit to throw the "switch". That's why they could not make it and just plug it into a level sensor, they needed a module to detect the resistance changes and it had to be powered in order to make the circuit work, not passive like a level sensor.

Captain Quirk
05/31/2007, 02:17 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10051773#post10051773 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
I hope they are cheaper than that or i wont be buying one.
The water sensor is not just a switch, you have to have some electronics to detect a resistance change, then a circuit to throw the "switch". That's why they could not make it and just plug it into a level sensor, they needed a module to detect the resistance changes and it had to be powered in order to make the circuit work, not passive like a level sensor.

Yeah, but Robby, come on. It's EASY to do that. Not complicated electronically nor materials intensive.

And there has to be SOME voltage present for the float valve in order to measure continuity. Perhaps they didn't think of putting any "sizable" voltage through that. Which would be a pity, but...

Any idea - whatsoever - on the pricing for these things?

Untamed12
05/31/2007, 05:48 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9941761#post9941761 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
I will definitely be buying two of the Leak detectors.
I already had a bad experience with a broken Ro hose. My $15 leak detectors where blaring away but no one was at home to hear them. At least with the AQ units I will be alerted at work if my house is flooding :)

Your $15 leak sensors worked fine...It was AQT that couldn't "hear" them.

AQT doesn't need to reinvent the leak sensor. They need to invent a alarm sound sensor that could react to leaks, CO2, Fire, burgler etc. Any number of noise alarms that homes/aquariums already have. A reasonable one could even learn to differentiate between alarms and be able to tell you which one was going off.

AQT could have heard the alarm and notified you immediately.

RobbyG
06/01/2007, 02:13 PM
Captain Quirk
There is definetly not enough power being provided by the Level jack to power a leak detector.

UnTamed12
I kind of have my doubts about doing it that way, I am not saying it would not work but it's not going to be a 100% reliable method. It might be set off by any number of sounds that happen to contain the same frequency. Keep in mind that it can't be looking for a sound level because that would vary drastically depending on the equipments location, so it would have to be listening for a particular frequency.

Captain Quirk
06/01/2007, 02:20 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10058259#post10058259 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
Captain Quirk
There is definetly not enough power being provided by the Level jack to power a leak detector.

UnTamed12
I kind of have my doubts about doing it that way, I am not saying it would not work but it's definitely not going to be a 100% reliable method. It might be set off by any number of sounds that happen to contain the same frequency. Keep in mind that it can't be looking for a sound level because that would vary drastically depending on the equipments location, so it would have to be listening for a particular frequency.

I personally think an audio sensor would be pretty difficult to implement properly. I mean, it could be DONE, but I'd sure not be too comfortable setting a control function to it.

I swear, I'm getting to the point where I'm gonna take my controller offline and put a scope on it to see what it's doing. Voltages at those jacks, for instance. Signal type (analog, I suspect). Signal voltages...

It's been a long time since I used an O scope, but I'm getting to the point where I need the info and since nobody'll give it to me...

*grumbles*

jamesdawson
06/01/2007, 02:33 PM
Do it and let us know.

James

RobbyG
06/01/2007, 03:32 PM
I have all the equipment, my problem is that I only have one controller and it's running my Tank :D No way I am going to start putting additional load on my modules and possibly fry them out.

Captain Quirk
06/01/2007, 06:28 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10058702#post10058702 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
I have all the equipment, my problem is that I only have one controller and it's running my Tank :D No way I am going to start putting additional load on my modules and possibly fry them out.

Gee. Wouldn't it be nice if they just ANSWERED OUR QUESTIONS instead of us all trying to figure this out on our own?

:rolleyes:

I only have one controller, too, Robby, but I'm still considering it. Part of it is getting timers set up again so I can free this thing up for a bit, but also there'd be a HUGE learning curve. I mean, it's been 20 years since I took classes on electronics...

Sure you can't do this for us?

;)

Untamed12
06/02/2007, 12:35 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10058259#post10058259 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RobbyG
Captain Quirk
There is definetly not enough power being provided by the Level jack to power a leak detector.

UnTamed12
I kind of have my doubts about doing it that way, I am not saying it would not work but it's not going to be a 100% reliable method. It might be set off by any number of sounds that happen to contain the same frequency. Keep in mind that it can't be looking for a sound level because that would vary drastically depending on the equipments location, so it would have to be listening for a particular frequency.

I will certainly admit that I don't know how to build such a device, so it could be more difficult than I imagine. But there can't be a lot of other noises in the home that approach the decibel levels of a smoke alarm, burgler alarm or flood detector. (not in my house, but I don't have any 3 year olds!) I would hope that any sound sensor wouldn't be easily fooled by other noises.

But heck..., if there is any unusual noise, I wouldn't mind if the AQT gave me a quick phone call or email...

Just an idea. Maybe I would be the only person who would purchase it!!

dandydan
06/09/2007, 04:38 PM
Come on fellars - A leak detector??
Use an Aq float switch for low level, break into cable and parralel any old float switch for High level shutdown of pumps, break into it again and add a 2 wire cable with say stainless steel screws at ends, screwed into floor at around 1/4" seperation.
A float switch is just an on/off switch
my 2 leak detectors are just on/off switches. As long as you keep of course the ID biscuit to connect to a plug bar - off you go. In fact you can have as many leak detectors as you wish. you will have to work out which way up the float switch goes.
Not bad eh?? for the price of a float switch.
Then of course programme to shut your reactors/Pumps etc etc off. - Works for me.
Luck

RobbyG
06/09/2007, 10:59 PM
Might work in a few situations but what are the odds that enough water is going to hit the ground to be able to float something even a 1/8" and if it was that sensitive, almost anything that vibrates the floor would set it off. IMO any sensor that can go off by accident is just about useless, after a few false alarms I certainly am not going too drive home from work based on what is most likely a false alarm. Thats exactly why I turned off my salinity alarm, the probe is just not stable.

dandydan
06/10/2007, 12:11 AM
We are talking Leak detectors, or if you prefer flood detectors,
2 bare ended wires when hit by sea water or any water will short out, therefore switch on, exactly the same as a float switch operating. No current is used at all except when one of the legs switches on, and that is negligable.
You could have 20 float switches and open ended pairs of wires and they would work. Or should I say they would work for me.

I take a wet cloth throw it on one of my open connections , and everything I have that moves water in any way is switched off.

RobbyG
06/10/2007, 10:57 AM
A real leak detector works by the principle you just stated except it's not really a short but more like a lowering of the resistance between two bare metal strips. In order to make either of these devices you need some sort of small current traveling from one strip to the other, a electronic circuit to detect the current or "short out" and another bit of circuitry to throw a (mini relay or transistor circuit) to switch open and close the two wires that would be going to the float sensor.

All of this is pretty easy to do but you will need external power source as the level module puts out just a very small amount of power. You could buy an off the shelf leak detector, open her up and add in 1 transistor and 4 resistors ;)
or just wait on AQT to release theres which will not be as bulky and not require a 9 volt battery.

dandydan
06/10/2007, 01:59 PM
With respect, I cannot understand why some like to complicate things.
2 bare ended wires will short out in water, There is no possibility of harm to the system as it is no different to a float switch - either make or break.

At this moment in time I have 2 float switches and 2 (not patented leak detectors) all working off one level switch input.
Also no current is used at all untill one of these sensors, actually operate or short out. Personally I dont care as long as all the equipment taking water out of my tank, shuts down, with the possibility of stopping my pumps etc burning out.

At my age simple is best, You boys wanna play with transistors, Set points and extra psu's - go for it.
Luck

RobbyG
06/11/2007, 03:40 PM
Not that I like it complicated, it's just that you can't use a Aquatronica Level module and convert it to a leak sensor without some degree of complexity. BTW the AQ level sensor does not just use a short out when it goes high or low. It is actually an exact resistance that's changes eg. Low = 300 ohms/ high = 550 ohms. Maybe I should have explained that at the start so you knew, why I thought it would not work.

dandydan
06/12/2007, 06:05 PM
Read my posts again,
I am not converting a level module,
I have ADDED another 2 float switches and 2 leak detectors to One AQ level switch.
Once again - a Level switch is either open or shorted/off or on.
an open ended pair of wires is exactly the same open or shorted when salt water shorts the ends.
As an electronic enginner I cant understand why you dont seem to grasp the most simplest of electrical concepts. If I was talking of earths and grounds, then i could understand some confusion.
But as I worked for american companies as a Electronics eng for over 30 years I know that a short is a short is a closed circuit.

RobbyG
06/13/2007, 04:25 PM
Ok, can you show me this working unit that is hooked to a level sensor input on an Aquatronica and detecting water leaks?

dandydan
06/14/2007, 03:25 AM
You can run 20 (normally open contact float switches if you wish from one AQ level interface. and 20 of my bits of wire leak detectors.
My unit is not a unit it is very simply 2 wires connected in parallel to the level switches above with bare ends mounted 1/4" apart. When Salt water comes along to those bare ends they short out together, or complete the circuit just like a light swich/micro switch, in my case they shut down all the bits of equipment that move water, including if I wish my RO unit and anything else.
If I can figure out how to attach a photo showing a 1 penny bit of wire I will.

RobbyG
06/14/2007, 10:13 AM
Do you have an ohm meter that you can run aross the two pin connector that plugs into the module? I am interested in knowing what resistance reading you getting when its in water and when it's out.