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drbronx
05/25/2007, 12:30 PM
RC sponsors definitely rock. Euro-reef agreed to provide their RC-250 skimmer for either no cost or maximally at 50% off wholesale cost which would put it at only about $175. Ice cap will be looking over my proposal but stated interest in providing not only lighting but also possibly their Vor-tec pump. For those not familiar, that is the state of the art power head where there is no heat transfer since the motor is held outside of the tank by a powerful magnet. This baby moves water and uses very little energy. I will be hearing from both companies very soon. Next, we need to work on RO-DI and auto top off system and a return pump and we are almost there! Any ideas of who to contact for these would be appreciated.

nwrogers
05/25/2007, 01:33 PM
OK here is a tentative list that I started. Please feel free to add to it or ask questions about it...

Stuff to get from Fish Store (Donations?)
1 - Euro Reef skimmer
3 - Eheim-JAGER TS Heater - 250 watt
1 - Large Roll of Filter Floss (Are we going to use this?)
1 - Warner Marine PHOSaR Phosphate Remover 4000 Gram
1 - Black Diamond Carbon 68 oz - MarineLand, 3.65 L
6 - Mesh Nylon Media Bags
1 - Return pump (We still have to decide on this pump)
1 - Icecap VHO Retro
2 - Icecap Vortech pumps
1 or 2 - 72" (VHO, T12) Super Actinic R, 160W -URI
1 or 2 - 72" (VHO, T12) 10,000K Aquasun, 160W -URI
3 - 5 gallon buckets of instant ocean synthetic salt
1 - RO/DI 100 Gallon per day units
2 - ¾” threaded male penductors
1 - Reefkeeper to control fans, heaters, powerheads, and lights
2 - ¾” Uniseal Slip Seal Gaskets
2 - 1" Uniseal Slip Seal Gaskets
2 - AQUA LIFTER VACUUM PUMPs
2 - PRE-FILTER FOR AQUALIFTER
1 - Aqualight Digital Power Center
1 - Top Off of some kind (Maybe a Reef Fanatic Level Controller w/2 Float Switches?)
1 - Hydrometer or Refractometer of some kind (open to suggestions)
1 - Set of Salifert Test Kits (Let's get a bunch)


Stuff to get from local stores (Cash)
1 - Large bag of Dow Flake
4 - Boxes of Baking Soda
2 - Honeywell FAN SUPER TURBO HP BK Sump Fans
4 - Extension cords
4 - Power strips
2 - 10' long 1” PVC pipes
1 - 10' long ¾” PVC pipe
8 - 1” 90° PVC fittings
8 - 1” 45° PVC fittings
8 - 1" PVC Unions
1 - 1.25" PVC Union
2 - 1.25" PVC T fitting
1 - 1" PVC T fitting
3 - 1.25" PVC male to 1” female reducer bushings
3 - 1" PVC male slip to ¾” female threaded reducer bushings
1 - 1.25" threaded to slip PVC connector
1 - 1.25" threaded PVC reducer size depending on pump
2 - 1" PVC ball valves
1 - 1.25" PVC ball valve
1 - 100 gallon rubbermaid brute container for sump
1 - 5 ft. long ¾” Vinyl Tubing
1 - 5 ft. long 1” Vinyl Tubing
2 - ¾” male threaded to male barb adapters
2 - ¾” vinal hose clamps
2 - ¾” PVC cross fittings
8 - ¾” PVC 90° fittings
8 - ¾” PVC Endcaps
1 - panel of Light Diffuser (Egg Crate)
1 - 20' roll of 1/4" OD Tubing

nwrogers
05/25/2007, 01:39 PM
Also I have contacted Drs Foster Smith and Premium Aquatics and they are interested in reading our proposal. I have also contacted Marine Depot and I am waiting on a call back from them. After we finalize the things we need using the list above we can write the proposal to these places and see what we can get. Jerry can you assist me in typing up the proposal? I am just so busy it is hard to keep up with all of this stuff. I hope that list give us a good jump start on things…

zanclus
05/25/2007, 02:39 PM
Nate I have a suggestion on the RO/Di. A 75 gpd is a much more efficent unit ,(98% rejection(75 gpd) vrs 90% (100gpd) rejection )and 75 gallons is more than enough for ourt needs. Hence less expensive.

drbronx
05/25/2007, 02:54 PM
Great list Nate. Very comprehensive. Very close to what i had compiled. The main difference is I am asking Ice cap for T-5 lighting equipment so that we can have the flexibility to include sps and clams, though that can really be done with vhop as well. I will be thrilled if they include the Vor-tech pumps otherwise to save cost over a closed loop system i was thinking of a couple of 1200 maxi mods. Anyway, i will be happy to type up the proposals. I'll give you a call. thanx for your time and effort. Everybody please feel free with ideas, suggestions, substitutions etc.

drbronx
05/25/2007, 03:14 PM
Nate, Vince said he has a 55 gallon rubbermaid tub. is that too small for our purposes. Also we'll need a magfloat glass scraper sufficient for 180 glass thickness, a glass scraper, fish net. Also for now we can get away with individual timers if we can't get a controller unit. Also, what are the aqua lifter's for. I assume thats for adding Randy'sw two-part solutions or kalk?

Can someone create a specific list of materials needed for the tank stand? I know Vince drew up a nice plan for a stand. We need to break it down so that the zoo can make the purchases.

nwrogers
05/29/2007, 11:02 AM
T-5 lighting should be fine. Also the aqualifters are for a DIY Randy's two-part doser.

fatrip
05/29/2007, 11:24 AM
jerry, my rubbermaid is not a brute, it is a rough neck, nate said he didnt know if they would leach phosphates or not, but et me know if you would like to try, the only other thing i could find around here was a 50 gallon poly troth from the tractor supply store...

Blugobi
05/29/2007, 06:07 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10015022#post10015022 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by drbronx
Great list Nate. Very comprehensive. Very close to what i had compiled. The main difference is I am asking Ice cap for T-5 lighting equipment so that we can have the flexibility to include sps and clams, though that can really be done with vhop as well. I will be thrilled if they include the Vor-tech pumps otherwise to save cost over a closed loop system i was thinking of a couple of 1200 maxi mods. Anyway, i will be happy to type up the proposals. I'll give you a call. thanx for your time and effort. Everybody please feel free with ideas, suggestions, substitutions etc.

That would be great if they do throw in a Vortech, it would be a lot less plumbing to deal with, however, I have been following the Vortech thread and I have mixed feelings with it. Some love it and some seem to have a ton of problems, like frying the controllers and with it not staying in place. I do believe there is supposed to be a new and improved model avilable so it may be good to go....Free is always good!

Geo

03Mach
05/31/2007, 07:53 AM
When do you need the IO buckets? I'm able to get 200 gal buckets of IO for less than the 160 gal buckets. I'm still working getting established with suppliers, so timing might be an issue for me.

Nate, not sure if I told you but I think I can get PVC stuff at cost, so if you want me to see what prices I can get the PVC from let me know. Oh and with the ball valves, are they going to be the true ball valves, or the cheaper ones?

Is the tank going to be running a UV Sterilizer? Are we looking at using any of the Pinpoint monitors?

This may be a bit minor, but what type of extension cords are we looking to use for this? The heavy duty 3 prong? Is there already wiring in the walls for the power supply?

These are just a few things I can think of for now.

zanclus
05/31/2007, 11:35 AM
Just a thought if the Zoo wants things to be simple maybe they should consider a Neptune system instead of several separate controllers and monitors . Though pricey, a Neptune can handle all of the tanks needs and can also be connected to a computer for monitoring. But after purchasing several light times, Ph meters, and the like, a Neptune looks like a good idea....

nwrogers
05/31/2007, 02:45 PM
I agree zanclus. The AquaController Jr with the DC8 is only $224.95. That is a really good deal IMO...

fatrip
05/31/2007, 02:51 PM
hey guys i am drawing up the stand and what not but i need to know how tall we want the bottom of the tank to be off the ground...the 100 gallon sumps demensions are 26 high, 32 wide, and 52 long....keep in mind we need to get into the sump....

Blugobi
05/31/2007, 02:57 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10052030#post10052030 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fatrip
hey guys i am drawing up the stand and what not but i need to know how tall we want the bottom of the tank to be off the ground...the 100 gallon sumps demensions are 26 high, 32 wide, and 52 long....keep in mind we need to get into the sump....

I have not been to see the location for the tank, but dose the sump have to be under the tank? Is there room to have it off to one side?......The reason I ask is due to acessability, is the sump going to be a Refuge as well? Is the skimmer going to be a stand alone or in the sump?

I think a meeting is in good order so we can decide what is going to be what. We should start with the room demensions and layout of equipment. Don't want this to turn into what the wire mess looks like behind my computer...:eek1: Anyway...some serious pre-planning will save a lot of time and frustration. Just my 2-cents.


Geo

fatrip
05/31/2007, 03:15 PM
it has to be under and no refuge, not sure about the skimmer is the euroreef rc250 an internal or external skimmer???

zanclus
05/31/2007, 03:18 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10052001#post10052001 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nwrogers
I agree zanclus. The AquaController Jr with the DC8 is only $224.95. That is a really good deal IMO...
Your one smart cookie Nate lol.....

fatrip
05/31/2007, 03:18 PM
any one know the dimensions of this 180??? is it a wide?

fatrip
05/31/2007, 03:57 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10052001#post10052001 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nwrogers
I agree zanclus. The AquaController Jr with the DC8 is only $224.95. That is a really good deal IMO...

is this better than the reef keeper 2??

fatrip
05/31/2007, 04:05 PM
the euro reef can be internal or external, but with the space we have, and the extra space in the sump i think it will be ideal to put it in the sump. it will also cut down on some of our plumbing as well.

zanclus
05/31/2007, 04:25 PM
a 180 is 72" long x 24" wide . I myself make my stand 72"x32" so I could have a little extra behind the tank for my Ballasts to sit on:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/zanclus/100_1479.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/zanclus/100_1478.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/zanclus/100_1477.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y282/zanclus/100_1493.jpg
I also built it taller so the tank sits up at eye level when standing.

fatrip
05/31/2007, 04:30 PM
but if it is a 180 tall then it is only 18" wide....wheres the doc when you need him...lol...

nwrogers
05/31/2007, 05:48 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10052188#post10052188 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by zanclus
Your one smart cookie Nate lol.....

Thanks Zanclus! You too!!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10052423#post10052423 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fatrip
is this better than the reef keeper 2??

Just as good just a little cheeper. They are both nice IMO.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10052462#post10052462 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fatrip
the euro reef can be internal or external, but with the space we have, and the extra space in the sump i think it will be ideal to put it in the sump. it will also cut down on some of our plumbing as well.

I agree.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10052595#post10052595 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by zanclus
a 180 is 72" long x 24" wide....

That is right 72" long x 24" wide. A 150 is 72" long x 18" wide. I doubt this is a 180 tall. If it is I stand corrected. And speaking of stands, that looks like a nice one John!

zanclus
05/31/2007, 05:59 PM
Thanks Nate, It holds my 220 with no problems solid as a rock. and cost around $100. to complete with the canopy. Simple design but structurally sound. We can build it in about 3 Hrs if we have all the material. I can figure out the supplies needed ...

drbronx
06/01/2007, 06:25 AM
-Sorry for not posting but Road Runner had me blocked out again for a bit.
Thanx for posting the pics John. Nice design. I like the idea of the rear shelf but we just have to make sure that doesn't interfere with our ability to do maintenance all of which will have to be done from the rear of the tank.

Vince- thanx for measuring out the 100 g sump. i think we can place that to the side of the display tank but we'll take more precise measurements this Saturday. As far as tank height, we'll have to wait until the floor is removed to take final measurements. We were thinkinmg 36" which is a fairly standard height and allows little people to see in as well as adults. The zoo has floor removal as their next rainy day project. they have been taking advantage of the good weather to get outside repairs completed.

03Mach- hard to say when we will need the salt. if you are not able to contribute when we are ready to add water, we'll try to obtain initial salt from a donor. however, you can be sure we will need discounted salt for future water changes.

thanks to all for your great ideas and contributions.

fatrip
06/01/2007, 06:34 AM
i have an idea about the sump being paritally under the tank...ill show you on sat the design...

nwrogers
06/01/2007, 06:35 AM
My initial plan was to have the sump directly behind or slightly to the side of the tank but not under it. Since we have a sump/fish room we might as well use it. Putting the sump under the stand would be more work IMO. So there is no need to take into account the height or size of the skimmer or sump when designing the stand. As long as we can get under there to do some plumbing we should be fine.

drbronx
06/01/2007, 06:43 AM
BTW, the Euro-reef RS 250 skimmer is for in sump only use. The footprint is 12x14" and the height is 30". This skimmer is designed to easily handle a heavy bioload of a 180 tank. Rated up to 550 gallons.

fatrip
06/01/2007, 07:03 AM
im not sure if we'll have room to put it behind the tank, but it might fit on the side of it....you'l have to see the way i designed the stand...the sump is acsesable from the the top and sides...you'll see tomorrow....and it will give us more room for other things that we need to do in there...

nwrogers
06/01/2007, 07:33 AM
Sounds good. It is really hard to finalize any parts list or plan without having seen the space and other peoples designs and ideas. Tomorrow will be a good time to finish up some of that stuff.

fatrip
06/01/2007, 07:34 AM
deffinatly, i just wrote to grimreefer about the bulb config...

fatrip
06/01/2007, 09:41 AM
hey nate, i was looking at the tier site and i was wondering if we can put a page on there about the zoo tank and put up pictures and captions...if you show me what formate you need it in to put it on there i will be more than glad to write them up and give you to...i think wee should have progression pictures as well as progession posts of what we are getting from who donated and when it happened...kinda like a daily Zoo project journal...let me know what you think...

fatrip
06/01/2007, 10:18 AM
nate your pm box is full.

fatrip
06/01/2007, 10:54 AM
nate where are you getting the neptune for 225.00?? the one i found that is comparable to the Reef Keeper with the PH probe is 312.00...

nwrogers
06/01/2007, 12:35 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10056690#post10056690 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fatrip
hey nate, i was looking at the tier site and i was wondering if we can put a page on there about the zoo tank and put up pictures and captions...if you show me what formate you need it in to put it on there i will be more than glad to write them up and give you to...i think wee should have progression pictures as well as progession posts of what we are getting from who donated and when it happened...kinda like a daily Zoo project journal...let me know what you think...

If you send me some content I will put it up there. An email with some photos attached will be fine. I cleared out my inbox, PM me for my email address if you need it.

On Neptune Systems website it claims they start at 225.00 but I can’t find them for that price anywhere. The reefkeeper2 is the same price once you compare all of the add-ons you will need for the aquacontroller jr. They only thing I can see that the aquacontroller has the the reefkeeper doesn’t is the computer interface. I guess for a geek like me that is pretty cool. I haven’t put a lot or research into these things since I bought my reefkeeper used for 100 beans. I figure for that price it doesn’t matter what other features the newer ones have because they can’t beat that price…

fatrip
06/01/2007, 12:47 PM
it does now...the new firmware is a computer graphing system like the aquacontroller...idk i think i am goin to go with the reef keeper...but yea after every thing you need to run the JR it is the same price as the Reef Keeper2...but any ways ill get you some pics and write some things up....like the remarkable donation from ICE CAP!!!!! :)

Piazzon12
06/03/2007, 05:38 PM
I was just thinking, is there a freezer in the building for us to keep frozen food in?? I 'm assuming that they have one for feeding the seals/penguins, but...

Piazzon12
06/03/2007, 05:48 PM
Also, is someone going to get keys to the building/pump room? can we work there at night like 5-11?? So many details to this thing...

drbronx
06/04/2007, 06:15 PM
I will call the zoo tomorrow to find out how to place equipment orders (since we can't get everything for free:)), gaining access to the pump room, the plans for the floor, picking up the rubbermaid tub.

I'm also thinking of ordering Melev's RO/DI unit that NateR., our resident tech/equipment guru recommends. The price is excellent, quality and durability are excellent, and replacement filters can be purchased from local stores.

I'm still debating what return pump to order. Nate strongly recommends the iwaki external to reduce heat, be sure to clear the head, and we can vary the pressure as needed. I've also read that Pan World offers a cheaper but equivalent model. Any thoughts. i will ask premium Aquatics to donate this and maybe a controller and then we can buy everything else.

drbronx
06/04/2007, 06:16 PM
http://www.melevsreef.com/ro_di.html

This is the Melev site for those not familiar. It contains tons of great info.

drbronx
06/05/2007, 06:53 PM
How would next Saturday be for folks for a big push on the tank project. keep in mind it is father's day weekend. The zoo will pick up the 100 g Rubbermaid tank and they promised the floor will be out. I can also have them get pvc plumbing once I have a list.
We can get a pump room key once the curator returns from vacation in a few days. We can work after hours at the zoo. We just have to give them fair warning to alert security and turn off zone alarms. Vince and I will be ordering IO salt at discounted prices for delivery next week. Thats the full update.
Anything else we need to have in place for next week? (Assuming that works for folks). I will also try to have an RO/DI from melev by then. What kind of faucet adapter do I need to order. I'm assuming a normal faucet adapter, as opposed to a saddle valve or hose bib adapter.

drbronx
06/06/2007, 07:03 PM
Ice cap is offering us a reduced price for the second Vortech Pump of $265. This is over $100 less than retail so given all they have done I don't see how we can turn this down. Unless there are objections, i will order this tomorrow. They also offered us a battery back up for $90 but I'm thinking the zoo should definitely purchase a small generator to protect their investment. thjey should have one anyway.

I will also order bulheads and Melevs RO/DI unit tonight or tomorrow. I will also write to premium Aquatics to request the PanWorld 200PS-MD70R external pump (1750 gph). Premium Aquatics feels this is a better pump than the Iwaki plus its cheaper. Anyway they are out of the equivalent Iwaki. I will also request the medusa Dual stage digital controller and three Eheim Jagger heaters. we'll see what (if anything) they can supply.

zanclus
06/06/2007, 07:50 PM
I am running a Pan World PS200 on my skimmer it is an a$$ kickin pump. Though I think it is a little too much for a return.... I think a 1200 GPH pump would be better as a return.

Piazzon12
06/06/2007, 08:09 PM
I'll be available next saturday... I think we need a list of who's bringing what in terms of major tools....etc. I have two corldess drills (one is a hammer drill) and a circular saw. I can also bring a shop vac if I can fit it in my car....

drbronx
06/06/2007, 09:04 PM
John: We will have 5-6ft head with a lott of lateral distance to travel since the sump will be about 7-8 ft away from the display. Does trhat6 change your opinion or still feel 1200GPH is the way to go. Glad to hear more good things about PanWorld pumps.

Adam: Good idea on the tools. I have a cordless as well.

RyanM.: Are you going to pick up a core borer to drill through the brick?

BTW, the zoo said we can use their wood pile to make the faux floor.

What time is good for folks next Saturday??? I'm good all day. Well, at least I'm available.

drbronx
06/06/2007, 09:21 PM
BTW John: How's the DIY rock coming along?

Does anyone have a spare skimmer lying around I can borrow for the zoo live rock. It is starting to get some diatom algae. even with no nutrients going into the tank. Go figure. Even a sea clone would be fine. If worst comes to worst I could kill the lights again for a few days and knock it back but it would be good to have some nutrient export.

Piazzon12
06/07/2007, 05:18 AM
I'm available all day and wouldn't mind getting an early start.

I do have a seaclone w/ an mj1200 we could use if noone has anything better.

I'll also bring a shop light and box fan (for people cooling). Do we have, or can someone pick up the screws we need, and wood glue? I have some PVC primer/cement... although I havent used it in a long time. We can also always run to the store.

Ryan, or whoever picks up the core bore, we'll need a water pump (hand insecticide sprayers work well). If we rent it, I'm sure they'll give it to us, but if borrowed, who knows. Also what size holes/bit will we need? 2"? bigger is always better i guess...

fatrip
06/07/2007, 06:12 AM
i've got wood glue and PVC primer&cement...still not sure i can be there or not but i can atleast drop them off.

03Mach
06/07/2007, 07:40 AM
I should be available until about 1pm or so, not sure if I can help much or not. I have a whole bunch of different size wood screws from building my deck, if you let me know what size we need I can bring them with me. I also have some saw horses I can bring and leave for the duration of the build.

zanclus
06/07/2007, 09:53 AM
Jerry.. The Rock is sitting in the water. It should sit at least another month then I wil talke a few pieces and put in a bucket with water for a few days and then test the ph of the water. As far as the Pump is comcerned I have considered the "head" I am using a Genx Mak 4 ( http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GEN-X&Category_Code=MAK4 ) for my return. We dont want a ton of water going through our sump.
We can always go with the PW 200 and throttle it back it needed.....

fatrip
06/07/2007, 10:03 AM
well we kinda need alot goin through the sump i thought?? isnt that where all of our nutrient export is goin to come from...skimmer...RSB...phosor...foam filter...oxigination...i could be wrong but, the more water through the sump, the better filtered water we have in the tank...i know at some point there is a balance that water will come in and not get filtered...just wondering with all of the head hight we have how much about will the GPH be getting to the tank with these pumps?

zanclus
06/07/2007, 11:05 AM
Push too much water through the sump and your skimmer will not skim efficiently

nwrogers
06/07/2007, 12:08 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10096163#post10096163 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by zanclus
Push too much water through the sump and your skimmer will not skim efficiently

How do you figure? The skimmer is running on its own pump. I don’t see how having more water going through the sump is going to affect the skimmers performance at all. It just doesn’t make sense. If anything it would make the skimmer more efficient since it wouldn’t be reprocessing water it just skimmed. That’s just my opinion. Also I think that pump jerry mentioned earlier should be fine. We are going to use it to feed the RDSB and if it has too much power we can always dial it back since it is a pressure rated pump.

Blugobi
06/07/2007, 02:11 PM
My two cents.......

If the sump is going to be just a sump with no fuge, then the rate of tank turn over IMO should be be tween 10-15 times volume of the tank....180g + 100g sump...1900 to 2850 gph respectively. The Vortech will take care of intank flow. As far as the skimmer.....flow thru the sump will have a direct effect on its productivity...to fast and it will underskim and to slow and it will overskim, due to the amount of time water is in the sump. Personally my skimmer and return both drain into the same area in my fuge/sump so about 50% of my water gets "re-skimmed" for lack of a better term.

For arguments sake...if there was a fuge then a slower turnover is best, to give the "Macro"time to absorb some of the nutrients from the water as it flows thru.

I know there are many methods and schools of thought on rates of flow....I think everyone here has there ideas....lets ues what works...Intank flow is becoming a very hot topic and some are saying it is at least as or more important than lighting....Return flow is also in debate, but I do know my setup is working fine.

About 11 times tank turn over(sump with fuge-Chaeto) and all the intank flow I can manage.

Geo

Piazzon12
06/07/2007, 03:05 PM
I dont want to get into this too much, but I've never understood this argument. I understand how too slow of flow can be inefficient, but not too fast. I'd have to agree with Nate, the logic just isn't there.

drbronx
06/07/2007, 04:30 PM
Intersting debate. I guess better too much than too little. Like John and Nate says, we can always dial back if needed. I'll go ahead and request that pan world. We'll see what they say.

Ice cap is sending out the Vor-techs tomorrow. One is free and one is discounted to $265.

Nate - any changes to the plumbing list. I'll need that asap so i can get it to the zoo so hopefully they can get parts by next weekend. I sent them the Rubbermaid sump specs from Tractor Supply.

Since we have the lighting, we should start considering how to mount it. Perhaps a verry simple ceiling suspended canopy so we can vary the height for tank access etc. Do we need fans (ie., radio shack computer fans?) to cool the lights. Anyone want toi take a stab at a simple design so we can see what we'll need from Lowes?

fatrip
06/07/2007, 04:56 PM
i think the easyest and simples would be a piece of plywood suspended from the cieling on little pullies so the lights can go up and down very easy. since we have indavidual parabolic reflectors we can just mount them not nessasarily in 2 rows of 4 but off set each one...just a thought...the only thing that would even need a fan would be the ballist and mine personly on my t-5's doesnt even get hot to the touch but if you would like to put one on top of each ballist i guess that would be ok. i have a little inverter i made my self in high scholl that convers 110acv to 6 or 9 switchable dcv wich would run 2 computer fans. just my thoughts on the easyest way to get at the top of the tank, pullies and nylon cord.

fatrip
06/07/2007, 04:57 PM
oh and if we need fans i can get them from work...so dont go and by them..

Piazzon12
06/07/2007, 06:41 PM
We could easily do something like this:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1136326 Iit could easily be hung

fish1219
06/07/2007, 06:53 PM
i like the pully idea so we can adjust the height. For the design I would go with an open design. we do not need a a top as the reflectors will direct the light back in. Example: Desigh

********************** ***********************
** ** ** **
** -----SLR-------------- ** ** ----------SLR---------- **
** ** ** **
** -----SLR-------------- ** ** ------SLR------------- **
** ** ** **
** -----SLR-------------- ** ** ---------SLR------ **
** ** ** **
** -----SLR-------------- ** ** --------SLR----- **
** ** ** **
********************** ***********************

The"*****" are strips of 3/4 inch plywood
The "-----" are the SLRs.
So basically its 2 window frames so to speak with the SLRs as slat betweent the frames. I can build this if no one else want to do it.

Paul

fatrip
06/07/2007, 07:38 PM
im not sure why you have the window frames, but i do think it should be open, we do not need a hood on the lights to hide them, because no one would see them any ways. if you were really inclined to have fans cooling the ends of the lights all we would have to do is put a clip on fan blowing across the lights to cool the ends and the fans over the ballists. oh and if we really wanted to get into it with pulling heat off the ballist i could get some pretty big heat sinks that could go on the with the fans...just a thought if you think they will get hott. but in my opinion i dont think we want a hood that would more or less trap heat and then have to cool the fixture. IMO. not trying to bash your idea adam.

fish1219
06/07/2007, 08:24 PM
they would not be window frames. Window frames was my reference to the design. I would custom build the frames for this application.

drbronx
06/07/2007, 08:36 PM
I believe the ballasts came with heat sinks though I didn't open anything yet. I like the idea of an open design as well as Vinces pulley idea. Fans would help increase the lifespan of the bulbs and help blow heat away from the tank. I'm not too concerned about ballast heat. So anyway to integrate all these design features would be great pending input from others.

Looks like Euro=reef will be sending what they term a "Blemmie", a Euro RS250 with a very slight cosmetic blemish.

I also asked marine depot for the PanWorld, Aqua Controller Jr. and some Eheime-Jager heaters. I figured they are a much bigger organization tha premium Aquatics and might be in a better position to donate. They asked for a project description which I sent so we'll see. That should be it for the big ticket items. Maybe I'll ask Premium for some smaller items. I'd like to savge as much money as we can for livestock and seahorsies.

I just ordered bulkheads and tomorrow Vince and I will submit orders for discounted sand and salt.

We are getting there folks. I'm anxiously awaiting getting this baby together.

Piazzon: A Sea Clone would be fine for this. How can I get this from you?

fatrip
06/07/2007, 08:58 PM
are you sure we want to go with the aqua controller jr. from what i can see it is almost the same as the reef kepper 2. but the reef keeper 2 has an expander for 2 more ac outlets and now a better computer data controller and log. not sure if marine depot sells it tho.

drbronx
06/07/2007, 09:33 PM
They don't sell the Reefkeeper.

fatrip
06/07/2007, 10:09 PM
gottcha ...bumer

Piazzon12
06/08/2007, 06:24 AM
No offense taken.. I had just read the thread earlier so thought I would post it. How far a way can we mount the ballast, possibly to the ceiling/support beams? Thats the only issue I might see with a slatwork design, the wieght of the ballast.

Dr B. I can drop it off pretty much any time this weekend... even after 1 today. Just let me know when you're available. You could pick it up if that's easier, just let me know, or call give me a call.
Adam

fish1219
06/08/2007, 10:54 AM
Hello Adam,
For mounting the ballast I was thinking above the tank against the wall. As for distance I'm not sure of the spec (guess we need to get that from ICECAP). For wiring I was thinking of using bundle wire. You can pick up at home depot. I have some 18Gauge 7 strand wire (by Carol). It meets the 18Gauge requirement but the insulation is listed at 300V. I believe ICECAP was using 600V. So we would need their engineers to confirm the use of 300V wire.

Paul

puter
06/09/2007, 07:46 PM
Hi Guys!

From the length of the thread it seems like you're making lots of progress! I only had a chance to skim the thread so my comments may be completely irrelevant given how far you've progressed... they're offered just for what they're worth:

First, I saw a comment about the height of the stand. There was an existing tank at the Seneca Park zoo when we started that project and we received a lot of feedback that the existing four foot stand was much too high given that kids were the primary audience. Making the new stand much lower was a good decision.

Second, I recommend you consider enclosing the top as much as possible. It wasn't long before we began work on the SPZ tank that a tank at a LFS in Canada was poisoned killing all of the inhabitants. It's nice not having to worry about what else "might" be involved when you're chasing issues with the tank.

Sounds like you guys are doing a great job!

Again, just FWIW...

Mark

Conesus_Kid
06/09/2007, 08:04 PM
I stumbled across this as well tonight.

I'm excited just hearing about your plans!!

I hope someone brings a camera Saturday.

drbronx
06/09/2007, 09:06 PM
Tnak Puter and Consensus for stopping buy. Your input is always welcome Puter. As it is, our stand will be 39" so it should be easily viewable by all but the smallest toddlers who can be held up to see better. The tank will be fully enclosed with no public access.

fish1219
06/10/2007, 08:43 AM
I posted on the ICECAP forum. For the ballast we have to use the 18 Gauge 600V wire. As for distance they indicated any length so mountng the ballast on the celling or wall will be fine. As for the wire I know Radio Shack sells it. Not sure about Lowes/HomeDepot. FOr the light frame we have 4 bulbs a side. Should I design the frame to support 4, 6 &/or 8 bulbs for future light if needed.

Paul

fatrip
06/10/2007, 09:16 AM
i dont think we are goin to need any more light. it is goin to be for the public IE little kids, they want to see all of the soft corals imaginable and probibly wont care to much for the sps look, just because they dont move. so we probibly wont have some of the more light demanding sps, and even if we do i think it would still be fine with those lights.

drbronx
06/10/2007, 01:09 PM
A design for our eight bulb set-up will be great. With that much light, we can grow whatever we want from softies to clams so their is no need to expand. Bring it along saturday if you could.

drbronx
06/11/2007, 07:21 PM
Lamps arrived today. Paul (Fish1219) offered to start work on the lighting and will pick up equipment for measuring etc.

The Vortechs should be here any day as well as bulkheads and RO/DI from Melev. Vince got the float valves from E-bay. I'm still waiting on the Euro-reef skimmer and any word from Marine depot on the Panworld pump and Aqua Controller. If I don't hear soon I'll try Premium Aquatics.

Who do folks recommend I contact for cleanbing crew and what would you recommend I ask for.? I can keep a cleaning crew in the live rock tank.

drbronx
06/11/2007, 07:26 PM
Also.... EWe still need substrate. The stuff we were going to order through the reptile place was too course for a remote sand bed. We need sugar sized oolithic araganite type sand. We need enough for a five gallon RSB and about 1/2 to 1" display sand. How many total lbs would that require?

RyanM
06/12/2007, 08:11 AM
Hey guys, Sorry I have been out of the loop the last few days. Im in the middle of selling my house. What a PITA it is. Taken much of my free time dealing with all the issues that come about with it.
I may or may not be able to attend this Saturday. They are making me move a trailer that I have rented that sits on the property and that is happening Friday. I may or may not be done putting it back on the property. I have to move it by 1:00 pm then the appraiser comes at 1:30 then the movers will move the trailer back. Then I have to put it all back together. Ill know how much and what I have left to do Friday night. Just seems like a lot to do in one day. Im prety sure its going to spill over till Saturday. I will try and make it tho.

Jerry asked about a core drill and if I could get one. I was just going to rent one. I can call around if we think we need one for Saturaday. I think there is alot to do with out needing it for the first day but if you all want me to see if I can find one let me know.

Dave VG
06/12/2007, 10:35 AM
Maybe i missed it I just read thru whole thread. What time saturday??

nwrogers
06/12/2007, 10:46 AM
No time has been set that I know of. I think it will be after the zoo closes, not sure though…

fatrip
06/12/2007, 12:04 PM
well nate i never thought of that but that would be great for me cause i have my daughter sat, but kelly comes home at 3:30 so more in the afternoon would be great for me.

drbronx
06/12/2007, 02:33 PM
Actually, Piazzon stated the morning which also works for me so I told the zoo 9 AM. Plus I figured is coolest then and it may be good to have zoo personnel around. I can make it for later but then I will have my daughter. I can still come for at least a while. But you guys are more important than me at this stage of the project so I can arrange whatever time we need (I think). Please let me know ASAP.

The zoo indicated that the floor will be out by Saturday and that the Rubbermaid tub will be there. i also forwarded a thorough list of plumbing supplies that Nate took the time to put together in avery clear and detailed manner. Thanx nate. Not sure it will be their by Saturday.

Since Ryan may not make it, can anybody rent or borrow a core borer to drill the brick wall? I would but i don't really know what the heck it is.

drbronx
06/12/2007, 02:34 PM
Cleaning crew recommendations?

Piazzon12
06/12/2007, 03:44 PM
Don't know who else is going to be available in the AM... but I can swing 9AM until well into the afternoon when everyone else would be available. I'd need at least someone else there to move stuff around, etc... and I'm terrible at making decisions. I could rent the core borer, but I would need to know the hole size (what size pipe did we order and I can go bigger). We'd probably only have it for a day, so we'd need to make a decision on the holes/placement sometime that afternoon.

Do we know dimensions for the planned seahorse tank?

Without being there, here is what I can think of for things that need done:
- Scrape the back of the tank
- Layout the tank/tankroom, mark the opening size for where the tank will be.
-Cut (preferrably after hours)/reframe the viewing opening. Remove the current viewing windows and recover the opening. Once the tank is in place/filled we will have no access. Tarp as necessary.
- Possibly add a hinged opening in the front above the tank for front access
- Build the platform for behind the tank under which the plumbing will get routed
- Layout the sump room
- Drill the holes for the plumbing, layout the plumbing if materials are available
- Gather more supplies that I'm sure we'll need
I believe the lighting is being taken care of off site

Adam

drbronx
06/12/2007, 03:45 PM
Vince volunteered to look into core borers at Floyd's and Taylot Rentals. What size bit do we need. We will have a 1' and a 1 1/4" line running from the display to the sump. Do we want two small holes or one hole big enough to accommodate both PVC lines?

Piazzon12
06/12/2007, 03:48 PM
For a cleanup crew, we could hit up any of the major distributors, but I don't think we want to take away from future fish... so pick a different one. Unless we're buying of course.
Actually, how about GARF? They had a pretty good pack... I bought my original there, large ceriths/turbos and crabs. If we can get it donated that'd be great. Otherwise we'd want to go with the cheapest quality one we can...

I'm sure the snails would be ok, but is there even enough to keep crabs well fed?

Piazzon12
06/12/2007, 03:51 PM
I think we'd probably want two different holes side by side, possibly at tub height, so they can lay flat and keep the plumbing simple

Dave VG
06/12/2007, 04:24 PM
I will be there in the morning if everything goes as planned for me. I will also have my daughter. I will bring my hand tools as well as my 10" miter saw, corded drill and my jig saw if you think we may need it. It has gotten me out of plenty of jams. Any chance of starting at 8:00 am. Earlier the better. Time flies as you all know.

Dave VG
06/12/2007, 04:27 PM
Also I have a CBS if there is one in the plans when up and running. Very very active.

drbronx
06/12/2007, 05:36 PM
Good plan Adam. I also like the idea of a kinged front opening. We could have slide locks facing into the tank room for access from their. What do you propose we use for scraping the paint off the tank. Would a chemical solvent work?

The zoo will reframe the wall once we tell them exactly what we need.

I haven't put a lot of thought into the seahorse tank yet since we need to insure we are within budget for the main display.
Nonetheless we should figure what dimkensions and size tank we need to insure sufficient room when the budget allows. I'm sure we'll be fine but I'm just being careful.

I will contact Garf for a donated or discounted cleaning package and some GARF Grunge. Of course we could seed the tank by each bringing in a couple of cups of substrate from our established tanks.

Lets plan on 9:00 and if some people need to come later thats fine. Again, we should meet at the Park Ave. Service entrance.
Does someone have wood screws they could bring? Also PVC cutters. ActuallyI have that. We won't cement anything yet.

drbronx
06/12/2007, 05:40 PM
Good plan Adam. I also like the idea of a kinged front opening. We could have slide locks facing into the tank room for access from their. What do you propose we use for scraping the paint off the tank. Would a chemical solvent work?

The zoo will reframe the wall once we tell them exactly what we need.

Also we'll need a circular saw and extension cords to cutt wood for the flooring.

I haven't put a lot of thought into the seahorse tank yet since we need to insure we are within budget for the main display.
Nonetheless we should figure what dimkensions and size tank we need to insure sufficient room when the budget allows. I'm sure we'll be fine but I'm just being careful.

I will contact Garf for a donated or discounted cleaning package and some GARF Grunge. Of course we could seed the tank by each bringing in a couple of cups of substrate from our established tanks.

Lets plan on 9:00 and if some people need to come later thats fine. Again, we should meet at the Park Ave. Service entrance.
Does someone have wood screws they could bring? Also PVC cutters. ActuallyI have that. We won't cement anything yet.

Piazzon12
06/13/2007, 05:25 AM
I think 03Mach said he had some deck screws, which would be best because they are corrosion resistant, I will be bringing some other screws that would work, but may corrode.

I have plain old window scrapers/razors that should work just fine on the back of the tank.

Antoher main thing will be dealing with the floor/leveling it. Hopefully we can get away with just shims.

I'll be bringing a circular saw, extensions, level, various tools/hardware, cordless drills , drop light, fan, and a shop Vac if it fits in my car. Also a plain old hack saw which should be fine for cutting PVC.

fatrip
06/13/2007, 08:19 AM
hey guys not sure what route you want to go with the core boar....there are 2 options

1. hand held core drill with 1.5 inch dimond bit is 69.99 for one day and they measure the dimond ware and if you ware it to a certain point, i think he said 10/1000ths you pay more.

option 2. Is a Demo Hammer with a 1.5 inch massons bit, and that is 64.16 for one day. and there is not a ware charge on that.

let me know so i can make the reservation for it. thanks guys

nwrogers
06/13/2007, 10:17 AM
We will need 3 - 1.5" holes

Piazzon12
06/13/2007, 10:25 AM
ouch, that's expensive in both cases.... I doubt three holes will wear the bit as long as we dont try to drill through rebar, but 1.5 inch mason bits should work too with a big enough drill... I'm assuming its a Demo Hammer Drill, and not some kind of jackhamer.
doesn't anyone know any local contractors, or maybe the one that the zoo uses on a regular basis? someone drilled the existing hole...

drbronx
06/13/2007, 10:32 AM
I will call the zoo and see if they have a tool to drill the wall. Thanx for checking Vince. Thats a lot of coin for a one day rental We may have no choice depending on what the zoo says.

drbronx
06/13/2007, 10:46 AM
I called Mike: he doubts they have one but he will check with their contractor. I should know by tomorrow. Vince, how much notice does Taylor rental need? The zoo also suffered some storm damage...downed trees etc. so its a little crazy but he stated they will have the floor out.

fatrip
06/13/2007, 11:22 AM
well they just need a reasurvation so some one else doesnt researve them...other than that you can just go and pick them up if they have it.

Dave VG
06/13/2007, 12:10 PM
I can get a hammer drill with a 1 1/2" massons bit for 35-40 dollars a day.

Dave VG
06/13/2007, 12:20 PM
Can we just knock a single brick out?

fatrip
06/13/2007, 12:47 PM
i think we should just chip the morter and knock out the brick. we can get a hammer drill for free but the biggest bit is 1 1/8th but it would be way easier and cleaner just to chip the morter and take the brick out. ill call you and talk to you about it jerry, maybe i can go up there tonight and see if it is a single or a double brick wall.

03Mach
06/13/2007, 03:57 PM
I have a few different size wood screws I can bring. I also have some saw horses that I can bring and leave there for a bit if you guys think we might need them.

fatrip
06/13/2007, 04:02 PM
sounds like a good idea with the saw horses. we should be able to get what me need done on sat but it is good that if we need you could leave them for the next time.

nwrogers
06/13/2007, 08:36 PM
Vince your PM mailbox is full...

fatrip
06/13/2007, 08:38 PM
oh that would be a good reason you didnt answer me lol....it is empty now

flar92
06/14/2007, 12:13 PM
Looks like the zoo is going to have a great tank. Cant wait to see it...

drbronx
06/14/2007, 05:39 PM
New stratyegy: rather than mess with a core borer, we may try to remove one or at most two bricks to run the plumbing lines.

I finally received final word from Euro Reef regarding the RS 250 skimmer. They are sending a skimmer for one half of retail which costs us $289 including everything (tax, shipping etc.). Its not quite what I had hoped or was originally promised but given that this is an incredible skimmer that retails for almost $600 this is still a very gracious offer. These company is much smaller than Ice Cap and so their ability to help is much leaner. So I am still very appreciative of their help.

drbronx
06/14/2007, 06:05 PM
Accounting Update: Thus far we have spent $1547. This includes the follwing:
180 gallon tank and stand $400
100 lbs of live rock $100
DIY rock materials - $30
Rubbermaid 110 G Poly tub $73
Ice Cap Vortech pump $265
Bulkhead fittings $41
float valves $45
5 stage ro/di unit $199
Euroreef protein skimmer $289
IO salt - 15 gallons $105

We can spend a max of $2500 - 3000 so we are doing OK but we still need some stuff: PVC plumbing (zoo will p/u), return pump, heaters, chemical media, scrapers, hydrometer/refractometer, level controller, aqua lifter pumps, slip seal gaskets, peduncters, test kits, and of course livestock (cleaning crew and fish). We can provide the corals. Som its going to be close. The zoo may need to increase the budget to allow for the seahorse tank.

fatrip
06/14/2007, 06:19 PM
the float valves are 30$

Piazzon12
06/14/2007, 09:45 PM
We'll just have to keep tapping sponsors... plus it won't be too bad once we're up and running

fatrip
06/15/2007, 06:42 AM
jerry i am unclear as to what you mean by a level controller?? and what are the aqua lifter pumps for??? i get my elos test kit today and test it against some things and if theya re good i will call and ask them to donate some test kits or give a percentage off.

drbronx
06/15/2007, 02:07 PM
Some bad nbews. Due to the storm damage, the zoo was unable to get to the floor but gave us permission to tear it out. What additional tools might we need for that. Pry bars etc. With the right tools I don't imagine it should take long (hopefully).

Piazzon12
06/15/2007, 05:06 PM
I'm sure we can take care of it. I have some pry bars and hammers I can bring. A saws-all or some other similar saw may come in handy, but we'll manage.

03Mach
06/15/2007, 09:02 PM
So where is it that we are meeting, the service entrance? I will be there at 9 (if I can find it)..

drbronx
06/15/2007, 09:16 PM
Its on Park Ave. @nd left after the road that goes to the Zoo. You have to go up the hill a small ways.

drbronx
06/15/2007, 09:16 PM
Its on Park Ave. 2nd left after the road that goes to the Zoo. You have to go up the hill a small ways.

03Mach
06/16/2007, 10:23 AM
Hey guys... Sorry I had to leave so quickly, I had somethings that needed my attention... Plus I wasn't really doing much of anything anyways.

If you guys didn't already get the plumbing stuff, I may have a way that we can get the stuff at a better cost. Let me know if you want me to find out about that. If I could get a copy of the needed supply list from whoever has it (Nate I assume?), I can see what I can do.

drbronx
06/16/2007, 02:53 PM
Thanks Jeremeiah but Nate and Vince picked up all the plumbing supplies today as well as the tub.

So the floor, ceiling and walls are out leaving only the outside framing. Huge thanks to Paul, Dave, and Adam for doing the heavy work today. Thursday night at 6PM we'll meet and move the tank into position, and maybe reframe the wall around it, build a new floor and start some plumbing.

Paul has the lighting and will start putting the t-5's together. I'm trying to get a pump donated so we can really get set for adding water. If need be I'll just buy one.

Piazzon12
06/16/2007, 06:24 PM
Hey guys, great work today. I found out I'll be leaving thursday night for the weekend so I won't be available. I'm willing to help out any other night though if things change..
Do you think we need to paint/seal the inside of the wall, at least the area that will be above the tank? It's bare wood. We could just use exterior white paint.

drbronx
06/16/2007, 08:38 PM
Bummer Adam. I think painting would be a good idea. Perhaps the zoo should do that but then that may not happen in time. Would it need to primed as well. i suppose we could splash up a quick coat. Anybody have a paint sprayer and some extra exterior latex. If not we could by some cheap paint. A gallon or two should cut it.

Dave VG
06/17/2007, 07:31 AM
Any exposed wood slould be painted.

Piazzon12
06/17/2007, 08:49 AM
Maybe someone has some paint in their cellar, it shouldn't take much. We dont have to prime.. either case we will need two coats and can just slap it on. We should probably wait until we get the openings cut and framed, so we can do it all then.

Other things while I'm thinking of them:

We can also paint the ends of the tank black, or just use black background.

They can probably use that romex we left hanging from the old light to install 2-2outlet cgfi's on the ceiling there. maybe for the ballasts? They can also make use of the wiring for the existing lights/timer.

Also, does anyone have an angle grinder we may need to grind away the rock floor a little if shims arent enough. By the way, did we get any shims? I think I have half a pack.

Will the seahorse tank we are planning on fit? Remember, we could potentially extend that end wall out if we really have to. It may be nice to have room to work around it.

How do these new Vortec pumps get mounted?

We cut out part of the drain, and i figured we could just put a 90 and an upright on it to use as a drain for water changes and RO waste. I think we should also put a sheet of plywood on that wall to mount the faucet/RO unit and drain to, otherwise it's a pain to do it on brick. I have the necessary equipment/hardware to mount the board to the brick.

If anyone wants to go in another night this week, I could do that and the copper soldering necessary.

Adam

Dave VG
06/17/2007, 11:11 AM
Can we bring the tank out of the wall half way? We could still use the stand front facing out and screw the doors shut or put locks on to prevent public access but still leave us access if needed. Right now we have none if the need were to arise. This would not be hard to do at all. A little more trim. We would just have extend the frame to the floor down around the stand instead of just the tank. Advantages are more room for us and the seahorse tank, a half hood which would be better access for cleaning and new coral placement or removal. Access from the front was a concern brought up yesterday by Nate and I agree. Would also be better viewing for us and the public. This would be give a 3 dimensional look and would be a far cooler effect and would not be the normal in the wall boring view IMO.

fatrip
06/17/2007, 01:33 PM
but you would need some way to lock the hood down so someone could not lift it and through things in it...

Dave VG
06/17/2007, 02:11 PM
No problem. We would have to make sure it was totally secure from the front. That is priority number one. As a matter of fact I was thinking of beefing up the doors from inside and putting locks on if we went this way. Screw can easily be taken out. Same type of security would go for the hood.

Piazzon12
06/17/2007, 06:32 PM
I believe the current plan is to put a hinged door on the front, above the tank, for front access, with latches on the inside to keep it locked down.

drbronx
06/17/2007, 06:42 PM
Piazzon is correct re having front access. We plan on framing out a door over the front of the tank that can be latched on the inside. . Great idea Dave but I have already checked with the zoo about extending the tank out from the wall but they sunk the idea due to limited space downstairs and for safety concerns. I think we'll have enough room as is. I'm thinking only a 29 gallon tall is all we need for the seahorse tank.

Piazzon, I have no other free nights but if anyone is willing to work another night, either let me know and I can call Mike or you can call him at 724-5461 ext. 223 so he can alert security and insure the door is open.

Piazzon: Good idea to mount the ro/di on a board and to use the existing drain. Your just full of ideas. Its almost like you know what your doing:)

Piazzon12
06/18/2007, 05:32 AM
I can even go in solo... I just don't want to step on anybody's toes. I'm not sure what Nate/Vince had planned for the supplies/setup.

nwrogers
06/18/2007, 08:18 AM
Well I can’t speak for Vince but if you want to setup the RO/DI unit that is fine with me. Vince and I bought an endcap and some solder to cap that copper pipe off. We planned on putting it on the wall top left as you come in the door of the sump room. All of the parts we bought are in the new 32 gallon brute containers in the fish tank room…

drbronx
06/18/2007, 11:30 AM
Adam - What night were you thinking of. maybe someone can join you? No worries about stepping on toes. The beauty of our organization is that there are no politics ie., no toes to step on. Just let the zoo know. those are the only toes we have to worry about.

Piazzon12
06/18/2007, 06:23 PM
I'm thinking Wed night ~6-9 or so. I'll make the arrangements with the zoo tomorrow.

drbronx
06/19/2007, 04:29 PM
I'll see if I can swing by Adam though I will have my daughter. What do you hope to work on. Are others available then or are we still down for Thursday at 6?

fish1219
06/19/2007, 06:12 PM
Wed or Thur just let me know. Also with the idea of having a hinge in the front of the tank I had to rethink my light design. Guess we can discuss on Wed or Thurs

Paul

drbronx
06/19/2007, 08:35 PM
Lets keep to the Thursday plan but if anyone wants to show up tomorrow, thats great too.

Piazzon12
06/19/2007, 08:49 PM
I'm hoping to at least get the copper plumbing done, and mount the panel where the RoDi will go. After that, I'm not sure depending on time.

Hopefully that will be a good enough start to get the sump room going soon.... so we can at least start making water, possibly fill the sump, and start the other plumbing.

We'll have a bit of work on the framing etc before we can get the display going.

Hopefully one of these days we'll have 4 people avail to take the tank off the stand. I figure two can hold the tank, while the others slide out the stand, and then everyone help put the tank down. I think we are safer doing all the leveling. etc without the tank around.

Adam

RyanM
06/20/2007, 06:41 AM
Im free Thursday, what time is it going to be?

Dave VG
06/20/2007, 08:13 AM
6:00 pm

fatrip
06/20/2007, 12:43 PM
hey jerry, not sure if i am goin to be able to make it tomorrow i have a dentist appt for a crown tomorrow, so i guess it depends how much pain i am in if i will show or not, just to give you the heads up...

drbronx
06/20/2007, 03:24 PM
Vince, I'll give you pain if you don't come:) Anyway they have good drugs for that. Tell your Doc that Dr. Bronx recommends lots of Hydrocodone (Vicodin). Seriously, best of luck with the procedure.

Dave VG
06/20/2007, 03:36 PM
I will be there tomorrow night.

fatrip
06/20/2007, 07:50 PM
jerry i'd rather have the good stuff oxycodone...the hydro 2.5 or 5mg dont work for me and they wont give me 7.5mg or the really good 10mg that they never give out...but they would never give me oxy either sooo i might have to use other medicinal things...lol...

nwrogers
06/21/2007, 07:04 AM
My son has his graduation from Pre-School tonight so if I am able to make it I will be late. How late will you guys be there?

Piazzon12
06/21/2007, 07:06 AM
if anyone has a 1 1/2" PVC 90 at home, we could use it for the drain. of course we could always pick one up... but then we'd have to remember to go to the store

Dave VG
06/21/2007, 08:08 AM
I can be there till maybe 8:30.

drbronx
06/21/2007, 08:27 PM
Progress: Last night, Adam and I painted the ceiling in the tank room and Adam mounted the backboard for the RO/DI in the sump room.

Tonight, Ryan and Dave cut and reframed the tank viewing area. Dave will buy materials for the front access door. Vince mounted the RO/DI.

Next time we'll be able to finish the framing, situate and level the tank and start to run the plumbing. This weekend doesn't look good for some folks so how would next Thursday work? One big push and we'll be ready for the fun stuff: adding water and setting up the tank.

Piazzon12
06/21/2007, 09:38 PM
Great work guys! Any nights good for me next week.

fish1219
06/22/2007, 10:03 AM
Hello,
Sorry I missed last nights work. I ended up being a last min sub for a golf tournament. Looks like its going well. Next Thursday will be fine with me and I should have the light system completed by then.

Paul

nwrogers
06/22/2007, 04:10 PM
Next week should work for me too. I stopped up last night a little before 9 but everyone was gone...

fish1219
06/22/2007, 07:03 PM
Ok, status on the hood.
The bulbs with the end caps measures 35". So i looking at the follow design.
Open Box/Frame
- 3"deep to protect the lamps
- Bulbs will be 5" on center
- Inside Box size will be approx 63"x18" (LxW)
Electrical
- The cables provided are 6 feet long.
- I'll have to extend with 18G solid wire
- bulbs front to back 1,2,3,4. One Ballast will light 1&3 the other 2&4, If we should do inside (2&3) ouside (1&4) let me know.
Mounting Ballast/Timer
- One on each side or both on the same side?
- Will be mounted on the wall
Any suggestions let me know. I cut the plywood into 3" width and ready for the fine cut/assemble

For paint was going to use some stuff I had around the house as it will not be seen.

Paul

drbronx
06/22/2007, 10:16 PM
Great design Paul. I was going to ask you about painting the wood so thats great. We probably should wall mount the ballast since we need to easily move the hood for tank maintyenance since the hood will be close to the water (a definite limitation of t-5's vs. halides). We need to think about either a pulley system or a sliding rack system for the lighting. DaveVG has an idea for a sliding mechanism which you could ask him about.

fish1219
06/25/2007, 04:11 PM
Ok, no one picked up my mistake. Inside box of 63x18". Thats ok for a 5' tank (30" bulbs) but not a 6' tank (36" bulbs). I noticed the error before I started cutting and made the corrections. I have the main frame in glue-up now. Its 73x19 inside dimensions. I wanted a little play room. I went to Radio Shack to pick up some 18AWG 600V solid wire. Their wire rating is now 300V. Any suggestions on where to pick up the wire from?

drbronx
06/25/2007, 07:19 PM
Try Robson Electric on Watson Blvd Endwell acrossm from the Old IBM Homestead. They are the place for all things electrical.

drbronx
06/25/2007, 07:21 PM
So who is able to attend Thursday night at 6 at the zoo.

Dave: Will you be able to pick up the t-111, hinges etc.?

Dave VG
06/26/2007, 04:55 AM
Yes I will be picking up the materials and be there at 6:00

Dave VG
06/26/2007, 04:58 AM
Paul try unicorn electronics up by the mall

fish1219
06/26/2007, 05:12 AM
What is the plan for Thursday night? Also what tools will be required? Right now I plan to be there by 6pm.

Piazzon12
06/26/2007, 06:34 AM
I will be there as well.
Are we at the point that we are ready to put the stand in it's final resting place? Did we frame in where the seahorse tank will be (because it will be much harder/dangerous to do with the tank installed)?

nwrogers
06/26/2007, 07:37 AM
I will be there this Thursday at 6...

fatrip
06/26/2007, 07:55 AM
i dont think ill be able to make it but i do have the lil ball valve for the RODI that i can give to dave or nate to bring up....

drbronx
06/26/2007, 07:07 PM
I received the skimmer and the other vor=techy today. The skimmer box is huge.

Regarding the seahorse tank. we were contemplating not framing it but keeping it free standing behind the glass.
Glad to see so many can make it. We can really start puytting this baby together and maybe even get a good start on the plumbing and start making some water.

Piazzon: what do we need to hook up that drain?

drbronx
06/26/2007, 08:55 PM
I may have finally struck out. I tries getting a clean up crew from Garf, Reeftopia, and one other place but i forgot which. So far no response. I may just buy a package from reeftopia since they appear to have the best deal. Then I'll contact Fosters-Smith for donated fish and some inverts. Anyone here know Jarik in Ithaca to ask him for some ocellaris and any other aquacultured fish? I have a friend that will donate a bubble tip anenome thougha carpet would be sweet.

fatrip
06/26/2007, 09:26 PM
i think for the kids the bubble tip would be better...i know the carpet looks cool but when kids think of nemo they think of a long tentical anenome that they can hide in and swim in and out of...JMO

Piazzon12
06/27/2007, 04:45 AM
For the drain I think all we need is a 1.5" PVC 90. We can use the section of pipe that we cut out (with the ball valve) for the upright since at that size none of our other plumbing will need it. Dave can you pick that up when you hit the Hardware store? Otherwise I can stop and grab one tomorrow.

Dave VG
06/27/2007, 05:03 AM
I will grab one Adam. Mean time tho i will have to have the 4x8 sheet of t11 cut in half to fit in my van. That would make two 4" sections. Does anyone see a problem with that. If so someone with a truck will hae to pick it up. Sorry thought it would fit whole.

fish1219
06/27/2007, 05:59 AM
I believe I have some 1 1/2" PVC 90's. I'll bring them with me on Thursday.

For the T11 siding. Where are we picking that up from? The 4x8 sheet should fit in my van.

drbronx
06/27/2007, 04:04 PM
Dave VG is picking up the T-111

fish1219
06/27/2007, 06:09 PM
HOOD STATUS:
* The hood is currently in glue up. Will start painting on Friday. I lost a day hunting for 18AWG Solid 600V wire. I checked:
3 Radio Shack's
Lowes
Home Depot
Unicorn Electronic
Robson Electric
No one carries 600V. I posted on the ICECAP forum and someone suggested mcmaster.com. They carry the wire and its $17.78 per 100foot. I plan to order on Fri/Sat this week. Shipping charges will be added once they now the weight. They sell by the foot so if anyone else in interested in 18AWG Solid 600V wire let me know.
*******
Thursday Work Items at the Zoo:
What tools should I bring with me?

Paul

drbronx
06/27/2007, 07:39 PM
I think betyween Dave and Adam we are covered for tools. Sorry you had to go on a goose chase for the wire but i'm glad you were able to locate some. Please keep any receipt for anything you lay out for materials.

Dave VG
06/27/2007, 08:10 PM
I may not be able to make it. It has gotten very busy at work. I will try to get there if I don't have to work to late. Sorry guys. I pm'ed Paul and asked him if he would be able to get the t111 along with the other stuff needed for the hood opening jerry. If he can't, him or I will let you know. After giving it some thought I feel we should close off the openings over the tank to the observation room. With the chicken wire no material things could be thrown threw like cans and stuff, but liquids could still enter the tank from those openings. Just a thought.

drbronx
06/28/2007, 06:18 AM
Sorry you may not make it Dave. Thanks for the heads up. I still think we need to keep those eves open for air circulation. Can we wait on the chicken wire since Dave was going to bring some. Anyone else have any.t need a little to go into the eve spaces to keep people from shoving crap through.

fatrip
06/28/2007, 06:24 AM
if we get that exahust fan going out the top there, i think it would be fine if we closed the eves. we would just have to make another duckt inside the room...not to hard to do.

Piazzon12
06/28/2007, 06:56 AM
I may have some chicken wire, but it isn't very fine, like 1" holes. I also have some black plastic window screen which I used on various tank projects. It may work better as it doesnt corrode.

drbronx
06/29/2007, 07:53 AM
Well, we achieved a fair amount last night: finished painting the tank room to protect exposed wood, set up the ro/di drain, placed mesh into the eaves ovber the tank, started to set up the sump including the RDSB and media chamber, purchased material (lumber and hardware) for the front door over the tank. Folks decided to meet next on Saturday at 4pm. i unfortunately will be unable to make it since i will be busy eradicating neurons at a party in Skaneateles. however, we will need as many live bodies as we can muster since we will attempt to move the tank into its final position. please indicate if you can make it. When that is complete, nate can commence his plumbing magic and get this beast ready for some water.

fish1219
06/29/2007, 06:23 PM
I'll be there at 4pm on Sat. My plans are to finish and install the door above the tank. Also will be installing the 2x4 at the botton of the opening.

Paul

Piazzon12
06/29/2007, 08:27 PM
I'll be there with bells on

Piazzon12
07/01/2007, 04:41 AM
Update:
Thanks to Paul, the door above the tank is pretty much complete. We only need to paint the inside (I brought some high gloss exterior white paint for that). The stand is also in it's final position and leveled. I'd still like to put another pack or two of shims under it so that there are no gaps. R/O DI is currently being made and by now we should have filled the Brute. Also, Vince dropped off the salt, so we can start mixing.
Right now, I think the next planned meeting is Thursday depending on everyone's availability. We should be able to get the tank in place, and really get the plumbing moving so that we can fill this beast.

drbronx
07/01/2007, 01:38 PM
Great work guys! Sorry i couldn't be there. i have a couple of neurons left so I'm good for Thursday at 6pm. Please sound off if you can attend since we need bodies to move the tank into place.

RyanM
07/01/2007, 04:27 PM
Sorry I couldnt be there but I should be able to be there this Thursday.

nwrogers
07/01/2007, 06:44 PM
I can be there this Thursday. Since we have to hand the tank through the viewing window we will need at least 6 people to move that tank IMO. So this will be an important Thursday for people to be there…

fatrip
07/01/2007, 06:58 PM
come on nate we know you could do one side by your self.....done be so modist...lol...

Dave VG
07/01/2007, 07:07 PM
I will be there.

nwrogers
07/01/2007, 07:11 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10253912#post10253912 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fatrip
come on nate we know you could do one side by your self.....done be so modist...lol...

Not after that welt you put on my stomach today playing paintball. It’s still bright red by the way, I just checked :lol:

fatrip
07/01/2007, 07:53 PM
lol that should slow you down....its only the size of a quarter...

fish1219
07/02/2007, 04:32 AM
I'll be able to make it on Thursday at 6pm.

Piazzon12
07/02/2007, 05:59 AM
hmm... I just realized we'll have to remove some of the framing around the door, and probably the door itself for convenience, in order to get the tank in through the front... shouldnt be too big of a problem as I think it's secured with all screws. That will also give us a chance to paint it since we will have no access once the tank is installed. Paul, we'll probably need your drill adapter again for small spaces.

fatrip
07/02/2007, 04:03 PM
here are some pictures from last thrusday...i wasnt there long so there are only a cupple...and i think nate took some of them.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0140.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0141.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0142.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0143.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0145.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0146.jpg

fish1219
07/03/2007, 09:15 AM
Believe we can just hook the door to the ceiling. We will have to remove the one 2x4 between the sides so the tank can fit through the opening. I'll bring my right angle attachment for the drill. As for the bottom piece we were looking at using a 2x4 or 1x4. Guess we can decide once the tank is in place.

RyanM
07/03/2007, 01:30 PM
Im lost as to why you think the tank wont fit thru the opening. It doesnt have to be square to the open while putting it thru it. It can go in on an angle. The tank will go thru that opening with plenty of room to spare. Slide it in on an angle then once over the stand set it down. Am I missing somthing?

fatrip
07/03/2007, 01:36 PM
yes...they framed the top door in so there is a 2x4 that is lower than the top of the tank in the way that will have to be takin down before we can put the tank in.

RyanM
07/03/2007, 02:08 PM
Ah!! got ya

fish1219
07/03/2007, 02:42 PM
once we remove the 2x4 and have the tank in place we can make a decision if we need to put it back in place or not. With the side 2x4's we could mount the door to the sides and not put in the cross 2x4. Looks like lots of discussion on Thursday. Any chance we could start earlier (i.e. 5:30).

drbronx
07/03/2007, 04:16 PM
I can certainly tell the zoo 5:30. People can come arrive whenever they can. I can probably make it between 5:30 AND 6.

drbronx
07/03/2007, 04:21 PM
Paul, how is the lighting coming along. We'll have to discuss how to suspend the lighting fixture since we need the capacity to move it to be ablt to work on the tank. a pulley system or a sliding system were two options that were proposed. I personally prefer a pulley system since that would allow us to work from either the front or rear of the tank.

fatrip
07/03/2007, 04:25 PM
i like the pully system as well very easy and simple...

RyanM
07/04/2007, 07:17 AM
My house closing is on Thursday at 3:30. Should take no more than an hour so I can be there at 4:30 or shortly after. Would help me to be there sooner than 6 so I dont have to find somthing to do between 4:30 and 6. Ill be bringing my parents and wont be able to stay long but can stay to help move the tank. The closing is in Binghamton so Its a short drive over to the zoo. I guess the question for me is, what time is the majority of people coming to move the tank. Thats when Ill be there.

fish1219
07/04/2007, 07:31 AM
Light Hood Status:
* Painting is complete
* Waiting on 18AWG Solid Wire to arrive (had to order online)
Mounting:
* Also like the pulley system. We can design Thursday night
Thursday Night:
* I'll be there 5:30 and plan to remove the center 2x4 so the tank can be installed.

Piazzon12
07/04/2007, 06:34 PM
I'll try to get there around 5:30

Dave VG
07/05/2007, 03:39 AM
I can be there at at 5:30

Piazzon12
07/05/2007, 05:36 AM
Dave, did you have rubber/plastic shims that you can bring? If not I can just stop and pick some up on the way.

Dave VG
07/05/2007, 05:44 AM
I will check Adam and let you know. I think I do have plastic ones somewhere.

Dave VG
07/05/2007, 01:33 PM
I cannot find my plastic wedges but i do have stackable plastic ones not the greatest. how much do we have to level. 1/ 2", 1" more or less.

fatrip
07/05/2007, 01:54 PM
it is pretty much level we are just filling in spot where the wood is off the ground..

Dave VG
07/05/2007, 01:58 PM
All i could get were wooden ones. They were out of plastic. Do you guys think that will do? if not i will try to get some at lowes.

fatrip
07/05/2007, 02:16 PM
wood will be fine. we used wood on the front part of the stand but ran out and uses the synthetic for what was left.

drbronx
07/05/2007, 11:00 PM
The tank is in its final position! We also decided to situate the sump directly next to the display and made room by removing more of the old wall framing. This will solve some plumbing issues since pvc lines won't have to run across the room and through the brick wall. We can use the former sump room under the stairs for storage and ro/di production.

When do people want to meet on Sunday.?We can finish the finishing molding around the display and do the plumbing and get this thing ready for plumbing.

I wrote a project description required by Drs. Foster Smith in light of our request for donated livestock. I will fax it tomorrow as well as contact marine Depot for a replacement of the defective bulkhead.

nate: can you send me an updated list of equipment i can order from premium Aquatics?

nwrogers
07/06/2007, 07:16 AM
Stuff to get from premium aquatics

3 - Eheim-JAGER TS Heater - 250 watt
1 - Large Roll of Filter Floss
1 - Warner Marine PHOSaR Phosphate Remover 4000 Gram
1 - Black Diamond Carbon 68 oz - MarineLand, 3.65 L
6 - Mesh Nylon Media Bags
2 - ¾” threaded male penductors (these would be cool to have if they are in our budget)
1 - ¾” Uniseal Slip Seal Gaskets
2 - 1" Uniseal Slip Seal Gaskets
2 - AQUA LIFTER VACUUM PUMPs
2 - PRE-FILTER FOR AQUALIFTER
1 - Hydrometer or Refractometer of some kind (open to suggestions)
1 - Set of Test Kits to keep at the zoo?

Stuff to get locally

1 - Large bag of Dow Flake
4 - Boxes of Baking Soda
2 - Honeywell SUPER TURBO HP BK Sump Fans
4 - Extension cords
4 - Power strips
1 - 10' long ¾” PVC pipe
2 - 1" PVC male threaded to 1 ¼” female slip connector
1 - 1" PVC female threaded to 1” female slip connector

By the way live aquaria has Hippocampus kelloggi on sale right now for $26.99 each. They can do well in water that is 78° so why can’t we hook them right up to the 180 and run the whole tank at 78°? That seems like the way to be to me. Then we don’t have to worry about top-off, heaters, filters, and all the other problems of running it on a separate system.

If I am forgetting something from my list above just copy the list and add the item to the bottom. That is everything that I can think of but I am sure that I am forgetting something. Also if it is in our budget to have a temp controller I think it would be a really good idea to have something to turn our fans and heaters on and off. I don’t care what kind it is but any dual stage temp controller will work…

fatrip
07/06/2007, 08:06 PM
Here are some pictures of our latest progress of the Binghamton Zoo Tank from Thursday the 5th.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0954.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0955.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0957.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0959.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0960.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0964.jpg

fatrip
07/06/2007, 08:08 PM
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0966.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0970.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0971.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0972.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0977.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b288/fatrip/IMG_0978.jpg

drbronx
07/06/2007, 10:25 PM
Thanx for the photos Vince. What a motley crew! But we're getting it done.

What time are people available Sunday. keep in mind, it's going to be hot so maybe early?

fish1219
07/07/2007, 10:50 AM
what are the plans for Sunday. Thought we were in a holding pattern waiting on the new bulkhead.

drbronx
07/07/2007, 11:07 AM
Nate said we can plumb it up to the bulkhead. Marine Depot is sending a free replacement. We also need to put back the cross bar above the tank and put in a sill and trim the sides. Dave VG was going to pick up wood for doing the finishing work. He was also going to try to find different hinges. But the main thing is for Nate to work on the plumbing so we don't need a lot of bodies.

drbronx
07/07/2007, 11:09 AM
BTW, if Sunday doesn't work for folks, we can find another time. i will be out of town Thursday through Sunday but I'm certainly not critical at this point.

Dave VG
07/07/2007, 12:38 PM
What time? I'm up at like 5:30 every morning. So the earlier the better for me. I think 7:00 would be a good time to start. If that is too early for others Jerry is there a way I could start at that time anyway. I cannot be there all day and will have to leave by 10:00 10:30 at the latest. Early is also a good way to beat the heat. It is supposed to be hot tomorrow. I will be picking up the wood and hinges tonight. Did we decide on ¼ round molding or not. Any of the wood work can be done or changed at anytime so no big deal. Would like to at least get the opening trimmed with the 1 X 5’s.

Dave VG
07/07/2007, 12:41 PM
Oh and did we get locks for the top opening? If not i can also pick some of them up to.

drbronx
07/07/2007, 03:33 PM
Dave: I can't be sure anyone would be there to let us in at that time. If you'd like I can meet you there at 9am and hopefully, we could find someone to let us into the building. I think the 1/4 round would be nice to finish the tank and hide the openings. Let me know what you want to do. Also, PM me your phone # since I don't have it.

Piazzon12
07/07/2007, 08:12 PM
Just wondering if there is a plan to meet, and at what time? BTW, I brought most of my tools home because I have several projects going on here.
Adam

Dave VG
07/07/2007, 08:21 PM
I bought the hinges and the wood for the sill and a piece of quarter round tonight. Should look nice when it is done. Jerry is there a # I could call in the morning to find out if I could get in at 7 or 8 like a security gate # or something? If not I don’t know how much I could get done in an hour and a half but I have someplace to be at about 10:30 and it’s down that way anyway. If not I will be there at 9:00 I guess. Whatever I can get done in that time I will.

Dave VG
07/07/2007, 08:31 PM
Adam I will bring my tools. Unfortunately they will have to leave with me though. I have several projects myself going on. Story of my life unfinished projects lol.

drbronx
07/07/2007, 08:37 PM
OK Dave: I don't know any # you can call at that time. I'll see you at 9am and we'll just take our chances. Whatever we get done is fine.

drbronx
07/08/2007, 05:32 AM
Can anybody else meet at the zoo at 9am this morning (Sunday)? nate? Vince?

drbronx
07/08/2007, 11:52 AM
Adam, Dave and I met Sunday morning. We replaced the hinges with more aesthetically appealing hinges on the front door, painted the 1/4 round trim, made some more ro/di water and thats about it. Dave will do finish work and paint the front sill plate. We discussed meeting at the zoo Thursday. Dave will get their around 5pm. The next major hurdle is the plumbing. Nate, does Thursday work for you? Any other day is fine, just call the zoo to give them a heads up. I will be out of town from Thursday through the weekend.

Piazzon12
07/09/2007, 10:20 AM
Possible seahorse tank?
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1158695

drbronx
07/09/2007, 05:00 PM
Thanks Adam. I alrready responded to that thread. Where the heck is batavia anyway? If anyone has a large enough vehicle I would be willing to take a ride. It seems like a decent price. the question is do we need the Rena filter? Nate indicated their is a species of sea horse that can tolerate higher tempos which means we could plumb the systems together. Anyone know about pipefish temp sensitivities?

Szwalla
07/09/2007, 05:11 PM
When I was younger I attended a Grateful Dead show in Buffalo. After the show, we stayed at a Hotel in Batavia (outside of Buffalo).

drbronx
07/09/2007, 05:57 PM
I would drive there for a dead show. I'm not sure I'd drive that far for a 29 gallon tank. Perhaps if he met us half way. Or bring Bob Weir along.

Piazzon12
07/09/2007, 06:20 PM
how about this one in Nichols:
http://binghamton.craigslist.org/fur/364910418.html

drbronx
07/09/2007, 06:37 PM
That looks great Adam. A heck of a lot closer. I'm super busy this week. Any chance you or someone can place an inquiry. If it sounds good maybe someone could snag it. Ryan M. livbes super close to Nichols and has a truck. Perhaps he can lay out the cash. So if you can check and see if its available and I can call Ryan and ask him to pick it up.

Piazzon12
07/10/2007, 06:27 PM
I am leaving thursday night for the beach so I won't be available. I have emailed the about the tank on craig's list and am waiting for a response

fatrip
07/10/2007, 08:01 PM
hey jerry have you talked to zooqi about his rock donation...that would fill the tank a little more while we wait on the DIY rock...

Piazzon12
07/11/2007, 05:51 PM
I contacted the guy (Peter) with the 29 G tank/stand etc for sale. It is still available and he sent me pics. He is willing to meet somewhere to exchange the tank for payment. I am leaving tomorrow for vacation, and he will be on vacation the next week. He would like to get rid of it ASAP. Can some take over the reins on this transaction? If you PM me your email, I can put you in contact. Thanks,
Adam

drbronx
07/11/2007, 07:17 PM
Thanx Adam, I would do this but am leaving in the AM for the weekend. It would be great if someone could tackle this or at least let him know we could take it off his hands after his vacation. I'd hate to see this opportunity slip by. If someone could lay out the cash i could reimburse immediately upon my return Sunday.

drbronx
07/11/2007, 07:18 PM
BTW Adam, is that a 29 gallon tall?

Piazzon12
07/11/2007, 09:28 PM
yes, I believe so, that's what he said. Can you tell from the pic?
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s286/Piazzon12/DCP_0024.jpg

fish1219
07/12/2007, 05:11 AM
Not sure if it was posted or not. What is the cost of the 29Gal Tank/Stand? Also, how are we on budget. Need to ensure we have the funds for livestock.

By the way are we meeting Sat/Sun at the zoo to work on the tank?

nwrogers
07/12/2007, 07:35 AM
That doesn't look like a 29 tall to me. I think everyone is on vacation this weekend. I know I am...

Szwalla
07/12/2007, 08:08 AM
I am not sure if anyone saw this or if it helps...

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1159395

Szwalla
07/12/2007, 08:12 AM
Last time I posted a link...it did not work. This is what it said.

Sellers name was "lennyd19" and at this time, all the coral is spoken for

all kinds of livestock and rock and coral in ny will ship!
Livestock:

1 mated pair of erectus and redei Seahorses $150-
1 mandrin eats mysis and orante goby $20-
1 banded pipefish $20-
1 blue stripe pipefish(male) $20-
1 cleaner shrimp $20-
1 pair of dragon face pipe fish $40-
1 serpent star orange disc $15-
I Also have about 8 pieces of assorted soft corals and zoo’s $100-
I Also have about 80 -100 pounds of very nice live rock $280-

drbronx
07/14/2007, 04:04 PM
That is a 29 tall. I am still in Boston. Our budget can definitely allow for that if someone can hook that deal up.

drbronx
07/14/2007, 04:06 PM
Was any work done on the tank this week. If not, when can folks, especially NRogers meet next to work on plumbing.

Paul, how is the lighting going?

I saw some beautiful reef tanks this week at the Boston aquarium and a local reef shop. I am re-inspired to get this baby going.

fish1219
07/14/2007, 06:19 PM
I should have the electrical compete by Sunday.
I'll bring it to the zoo so we can discuss how to mount to the ceiling via pulleys. I belive the plan was to use pullys but also have chains to the corners as a safety fall back.

drbronx
07/16/2007, 06:10 AM
Excellent Paul. I you are able, could you pick up the pulley hardare that you think we need. One or two pulley system. Then post when we can meet at the zoo to install.

I received the replacement bulkhead. So Nate, please post when we can meet.

nwrogers
07/16/2007, 07:54 AM
Wednesday

drbronx
07/16/2007, 05:48 PM
OK Nate cool. What time so I can give the zoo a heads up. I'll also bring the bulkhead. I can be available any time after 5pm.

drbronx
07/16/2007, 07:24 PM
I spoke to John today, aka Flar92, aka zanclus. While he is no longer on RC (due to a series of unfortunate events:)) he frequently checks the forum. He informs me that the live rock is about ready and he will obtain a test kit to check the ph. If it is ready, I will pick up on Sunday.

Paul: Any chance you could make it on Wednesday as well so we can start suspending the lighting?

fish1219
07/16/2007, 07:28 PM
Hood Update:
Woodworking: Complete
Electrical: 50% done and tested using 4 URI blubs
1 - Aquasun (10K)
1 - Actinic White (12K)
1 - Aqua Blue (14K)
1 - Super Actinic (420nm)

With just half of the bulbs in and NO SLR's installed this hood is bright. Not sure I can complete the electrical/pulley system by Wed. Hope to complete by the weekend.

Paul

drbronx
07/16/2007, 07:54 PM
OK great Paul. I heard from the zoo today and the 20 amp lines are wired in. We just have to let them know where we want the outlet boxes placed. Do these need to be GFI outlets?

drbronx
07/16/2007, 08:00 PM
OK great Paul. I heard from the zoo today and the 20 amp lines are wired in. We just have to let them know where we want the outlet boxes placed. Do these need to be GFI outlets?

nwrogers
07/16/2007, 08:18 PM
I should be there around 6pm...

fatrip
07/16/2007, 08:20 PM
yes at lease one but prefferable all of them....for the GFI's

drbronx
07/17/2007, 04:50 AM
OK, see you at 6 Nate. Of course others are welcome!

fish1219
07/17/2007, 05:01 AM
At one time they were going to GFI the whole circuit by using GFI breakers. If not then the 1st outline in the line should be GFI to protect it and the others downstream.

I can make it Wed if you need me. Besides the plumbing are we doing anything else on Wednesday.

Paul

fish1219
07/17/2007, 01:42 PM
I've finished the electrical on the hood. I will bring it to the zoo on Wed at 6pm. Then we can discuss mounting procedures. It is setup with connectors that allow the ballast to run any 2 of the 4 light strips (2 blubs per strip). This way we can try a 1/3 2/4 or 1/2 3/4 or 1/4 2/3 etc. I haven't done a full power setup as 1 on the bulbs arrived busted.