How did you get H2O from your AP24 to your sump?

[spshal1]

I am doing an upgrade of my Aquapod 24 in a few weeks and part of the upgrade includes the addition of a sump. I am not sure about how to get the water from the tank to the sump. I don'd want a siphon dependent system. I would really love to drill the back but am unsure if it is possible, or if there is even enough room. I am also thinking about what pump to use on the return, would a Maxi-Jet 1200 work (I need it to travel about 3' up)?

I am looking for the advise of others! What worked well for you, and what pump did you use?

[spshal1]

Come on, you guys have to have something for me...... :)

[fish 511]

I imagine you could drain the back out somehow, and drill it :confused: . As for the return, I would use something a little more powerful than a MJ1200. By the time that comes out, you will have very little flow into the main display, which also means less turnover through the sump. HTH

[spshal1]

fish 511 - I am planning on tearing everything down. The rock, coral, and fish are headed to luxurious 5gal buckets. The tank will be empty so drilling it is an option, I am just wondering if anyone has done it. Any thoughts on what size pump? I have two MJ900's for circulation so flow is not a huge issue, just need to get the water back to the back portion of the in tank sump.

[fish 511]

I would do like a Rio 1400. Its not so much the amount of flow for the tank inhabitants, but the turnover rate through the sump. If I remember correctly, you want like 10x turnover through the sump, so you would want like 240gph? I think a rio 1400 or the like wold be best

[Crackerballer]

I don't know that I would try to drill the glass on the AP. May want to call and see if it is tempered.

[Jimbo327]

If you are going to drill it in the back, make sure it is not tempered, and also drill it high so you still have water in the back chambers. Do not drill it low.

[DisturbedReefer]

There is a guy on RF that has already done it...check out the thread, he drilled the pod without hitch. here is the thread
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23803

[Crackerballer]

Mother of God there were more "LOL" in that topic than on all of Reef Central combined

[spshal1]

DisturbedReefer - Thanks for the link that is what I was looking for.

Crackerballer - You weren't kidding about the number of 'LOL' in that thread!

Thank you guys for your input, it is helpful. Any one else have any opinions/suggestions?

[Crackerballer]

Yes, I suggest when you do it you post pics and such :)

[spshal1]

Crackerballer - I will certainly post some pics. I have my last final next Friday and hope to go to my father-in-law's shop to build a new stand on Saturday. I am just getting excited, I hope that I can wait until then so that I actually study for my finals.

[Crackerballer]

Yea I have first summer session finals next week, and my 10 page country export analysis due on Friday.

[spshal1]

I emailed support at Current USA and this is the reply that I got:

The glass on our 24g AquaPod is not tempered. It is possible to drill a
hole in the glass. This will void your warranty. You may want to visit the
message board for any suggestions or help.

Come on Saturday!!

[Zigzag Man]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10109130#post10109130 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fish 511
I would do like a Rio 1400. Its not so much the amount of flow for the tank inhabitants, but the turnover rate through the sump. If I remember correctly, you want like 10x turnover through the sump, so you would want like 240gph? I think a rio 1400 or the like wold be best

10x turnover through the sump may be a bit on the high side, unless your return pump is providing all the in-tank circulation. Plus you'll run the risk of having microbubbles travel back to the tank because they don't have time to surface in the sump before they hit the return pump.

I usually shoot for 4x turnover, because you're primarily providing water to your skimmer, and most of those are rated at 4x turnover per hour.

It also depends on whether or not you have a chiller ran inline with your return pump, so you'll need to check the manufacturer's recommendations for flow through the chiller to keep it from freezing up.

That's my $0.02 anyway... you might be able to get by with a MJ-1200, depending on the head pressure, though you'll probably need something more along the lines of a Mag3 or a Mag5, with a ball valve on the pressure side to regulate the flow.

[spshal1]

Thanks for your input Zigzag. I decided to go with something a little more 'beefy' than the MJ 1200. I got a great deal from an LFS on a no-name pump put out by West Coast Imports, the thing is so quiet, it is great. It also puts out 800gph with 10ft of head on in. I will be running my chiller in-line with the return but figure I will still need to throttle it down with a ball valve. I went this weekend and build my new stand. It turned out well. I was even able to make a curved door on the front that matches the curve on the AP24 as well as the hood I built a while back. I am painting the inside with a high gloss white and staining the outside. The paint is drying as I type. I will try and get some pictures up soon, they always do a better job explaining than I am able to do. Next weekend I hope to drill the tank and get the plumbing in. We will see...

[neverwouldof]

Thats good info

[Zigzag Man]

That sounds great... I always like seeing photos. :)

800gph is gonna be huge in a 24g tank... you're definitely going to have to throttle it back, unless you like the 'cuisenhart' look in your Aquapod. ;)

The one thing to be careful of with 'no-name' pumps is that a lot of them are oil-cooled, rather than epoxy potted... and pump melt-downs can be really ugly... for the longest time Rio pumps were oil cooled, and had sub-standard thermal overload protection. I stopped counting how many times people posted that their Rio pump had blown up and not only electrocuted everything in their tank, but fouled it with oil as well... not fun to come home to something like that. :(

Not trying to scare you... just something to keep in mind and be careful of. Nothing kills the joy of this hobby more than losing all your livestock (been there, done that).

[spshal1]

Zigzag, that is some good info. Any idea where to look to find out if the pump is oil cooled?

I am just now recovering from a tank melt down. I was watching my two year old nephew and when the house got too quiet for too long I went looking for him. I found him clamly watching my fish. It wasn't until later that I realized that he had decided to "help" and added a nearly-full 50gal bag of salt to the display tank. By the time I noticed it was too late, it killed all but a few zoas and I was only able to frag and save a few of my SPS. That is kind of why I am doing the "remodel," I figure I may as well start fresh. I hopw to get the part I ordered this week and get my sump built and the plumbing set. I am getting excited!!

[spshal1]

It looks like I need to read what I type before I hit Post, sorry about the typo's.

[spshal1]

Here are a few pics of the stand that I have been working on. Right now it is not much to look at, actually, when it is done it will not be much to look at either! I painted the inside with a high gloss marine grade paint to help with water splash and salt spray, the white should also help some with making it brighter (the room the tank is in is not to bright). The outside is going to be stained to match the hood I built a while back, a dark walnut. I think it will look ok when it is all said and done. I am expecting a package of goodies from MarineDepot on Wend. so I hope to get more work done later this week.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/123474IMG_0036__Small_.jpg
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/123474IMG_0038__Small_.jpg
This is the best pic I have of the door, you can kind of see the curve that matches the front of the stand and my AP.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/123474IMG_0039__Small_.jpg