45g DIY Cube Documentation

[Milleme]

This will be my second real display tank to setup in my 3 years of involvment in this crazy hoppy. My first (58 gal) was set up on impulse and quick decisions without a ton of research. But it has over all been a success and taught me many things. Right now my wet friends are residing in a 20g aquarium in the kitchen while I redo my room and build my newest aquarium a 45 gallon acrylic cube.

TANK
The display is a braceless 44.9 gallon (24 x 24 x 18) cube made out of 1/2" acrylic with a 12" linear external overflow. Does anyone think I will have to worry about bowing with this thickness of acrylic considering the dimensions?

PICS of the build so far.
First 3 pieces glued together.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/1.jpg

Overflow cut in the last piece.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_3678.jpg

Quick scetch of the layout.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_3680.jpg

I will post more info on equipment shortly and yall can help me with questions and problems I encounter.

[New_Noob]

sweet, i love cubes, what are u gonna use for lighting?

I used to have an above tank fuge, i liked the concept, but i had to switch due to limited space, definitly more copepod friendly.

[Milleme]

Filtration
Skimming will be done by a ER RS5-3. I am intrested in moding it to be fed from the overflow and turning it into a recirculation skimmer. I have never done this before so ill need some help.... .:confused: Although i might look into getting the new BM-160! if it isnt to pricey (more on skimmers later). Biofiltration will be 30-50 lbs LR that I have been cooking for a good 3 months now as well as a thin layer of LS. I will also set up a 10 gal refugium that gravity feeds to the display (see scetch on first post) mainly just for fun but also for nutrient export.

Lighting
Will be 250watt DE Pheonix 14k drivin' by a magnetic ballast. Supplemental lighting will be a actinic flouresent bulb until I can upgrade to PCs or T5s (Last on the list...)

Water Circulation
1 or 2TUNZE nano streams and oldschool TUNZE turbelle PH.

Calcium and Alkalinity supplementaion
I have already purchased a kalk reactor to do this. I will replace evaporated water with kalk water during the night to maintain pH. I will need help and recomendations on dosing pumps and floatswitches to make an ATO and put them together to make everything run smoothly when the time comes to set it up.

At this point this is pretty much all the equipment i can think of besides heating and cooling ( I may add a chiller later on). I will most likely not be using any controllers unless I find one on the side of the street one day...

[Milleme]

Thanx New_Noob, I just posted the lighting above..........

Ya my main reason for the fuge is to display those little critters and maybe a couple a exotics, like a pipe fish, than it is for nutrient exportation.

[flar92]

looks good keep up the good work and post more pic.

[Kentanner11]

Hey what is that acryllic called? I really want to try some DIY with it! And where did you get it>?

[newreef8584]

I think you will be fine with 1/2" I just built a cube with the exact dimensions using 3/8" with a 2" Euro brace. Filled it to the rim then bumped it around for a while as a wet/stress test with no problems.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d834b3127cce851fc76a14c200000026100Bas2bNo3ZsY

[taketz]

Looking good Milleme, I like alot of your choices you have made ;)

And as for the BM-160, I'll give you an update when I get it in 2 or so weeks to let you know how it compares to the ER. Hopefully it just blows it away.

You have any idea of a stocking list? I know you're thinking of mostly SPS and select LPS/softies, but any idea's fishwise?

[Milleme]

Kentanner11, iTs called CHEMCAST GP, I ordered it from a local plastic shop down here in austin. Just check your yellow pages for a store local to you.

Newreef8584, thanx for the insurance, I'm sure it will be fine...

Taketz- Thanx man. I cant wait to see your BM in action, I might have to save up for one.

FISH LIST
-African flame angel (already have)
-Longnose hawk (already have)
-school of blue spine cardinals
-some kind of wrasse
-fu manchu lion ???

This will probably change though.....

[Milleme]

No new updates, I have to pick up bulkheads tomarow so I know what size to drill the return hole. Then I will be able to finish the tank up!

[Kentanner11]

Thanks! Hey where are you getting your bulkheads from?

[Milleme]

I dont know yet, I checked lowes and a local fishstore today but neither had them. Tomarow Im gonna check a few more reliable LFS's and a mom n pop hardware store that may have them.

You can also get them online from savko.com

[Kentanner11]

Thanks!good luck!

[Milleme]

Today i finished the tank up and am waiting to give it a wet test. How long should I wait before putting water in for the bond to cure?

PICS

the last side was assembled this morning
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_3682.jpg

and the tank was finished this afternoon!!!
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_3684.jpg

I ended up with some very smooth seems and some not smooth ones... For the not so good ones is there any way I can go over them again on the outside to fill in gaps? I will get close up pics of the seems later.

[Milleme]

I went ahead and wet tested it because i was so anxious to and found that i did have one small leakaround the base how should I go about fixing it? I figure I will just go around the outside of the tank carefully with the weldon 3 to fill any gaps. Does this sound like a good idea, does any one have any better suggestions?

Was putting water in an hour or so after glueing a bad idea? :mixed:

[CMcNeil]

you really should have waited 24 hours for the weld on to cure.do you know exactly where the leak is?

[sac-bobme]

I thought weld-on 16 was a tad thicker and used as a acrylic glue sealer (like silicone is for glass)
maybe i got it backwards .. but I dont think so ..

I did a search and yes, its 16 you want to use around the seams...

[Andrew]

Nice DIY cube! :thumbsup:

[Milleme]

Checkinhawk, Thanx for the reply. Ya i had i weird feeling the whole time I was watching it fill up. When i saw the leak I marked where it was precisely. Do you think the water will cause any problems or will I be okay?


Sac-bobme, #16 is more like a glue. #3 actually melts the acrylic and bonds the two pieces.

Andrew, thanx bro!

[CMcNeil]

what did you glue the tank with?how clean is the inside glue joint?if the inside is real clean you could cut a small strip of acrylic and glue it into the leaking area.

[Milleme]

I used weldon #3. That is a good idea.

I just went over the leak on the outside joint to fill in the air bubbles. I think it took care of it but Im gonna wait till tomarow to wet test again. If it isnt fixed ill do the easy fix you mentioned.

[CMcNeil]

yeah let it dry til tomorrow then test it again,good luck.

[Milleme]

Wet test today was successful, I filled the tank and let it sit for a couple of hours and no leaks.

Now I need to build the external overflow box. It will be made out of 1/2" acrylic also. The overflow is 12" long so Im gonna make the box 14" long 8" tall and 4.5" wide. Does any one see any problems with this?

I also need help to determine the GPH I will need going through my sump. My return pump will "T" off at least once, between the display and the fuge. But I am gonna put a "T" before that incase I add a chiller, uv, or any other reactors. I am considering the Gen-X PCX-30 (982.7 gph @ 14.5') for the return pump. What do yall think. Also will one 1" bulkhead be enough for the drain or should I put two just in case? Heres is a pic of a scetch of the plumbing and equiptment I drew so yall can see what Im talking about.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/100_3689.jpg

[woz9683]

sac-bobme had it right, for filling in those gaps you probably should have used weld-on #16. It has better filling properties than #3 or #4 because it has acrylic mixed in with the chemical solvents.

Also, you probably should have let it sit more than a few hours before water testing it. That's probably why it developed a leak in the first place. Not trying to rain on your parade, but I'd leave it full of water for at least a week or two in the garage or somewhere like that because filling it with water that soon put a lot of stress on very new joints, and it might develop more leaks.

In general, you want to wait at least 24 hours before water testing your joints, 72 hours is more acceptable, and at 1 week your joints will be close to full strength so it's best to wait that long.

The tank may be perfectly fine, but IMO it's better to find out now than to find out when it's full of fish/corals and sitting on your desk.

[Milleme]

woz9683, thanx for the reply. I might go get some #16 then. I did wait 24 hours to test it this time and so far no leaks but ill let it sit a couple more days to make sure. BTW I like that octopus, is it yours by any chance?

So wats the secret to bubble free joints? I still have to make the sump as well so any pointers are greatly appreciated! My questions 2 posts above about the drain and return still remain.

[manderx]

the secret to a bubble-free joint with #3 or #4 is to have a perfect edge before gluing. also i've seen where people use a bunch of tiny wedges underneath the whole thing to push up on the joint from below wherever there's a bubble.

i hate #16. it's always runnier than i remember (whoops) and it dries full of bubbles. i really like #40. it's thicker, dries pretty, doesn't need hardly any edge prep for a good pretty bond and is much stronger than anything else i've used. it is a pain that it's a 2-part epoxy though.

[Milleme]

thanx for the info manderx

[Milleme]

Well I finished the overflow for the tank and the sump. I will get pics of that and some of the equiptment and rocks up later. Right now I have to decide on a new skimmer. I want the new BM-160 but it is too expensive. Does any one have any other suggestions, its been so long since I've really looked at skimmers I don't know whats out there.

[Milleme]

The reason I am needing a new skimmer is because I broke my current Rs3-5 :mad2: :mad2: (I was still to mad yesterday to post) while I was cleaning it. In a way its good because now I can upgrade although I will probably just end up getting the RS80 which is basicaly just a new model of what I had unless some one objects and points me in the direction of another skimmer less than 300$ that is better. Here is a pic of where it broke, it can probably be fixed with a little DIY work so if you are interested I will sell it for cheap. Just shoot me a PM with an offer.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/100_3766.jpg

Pic of the finished overflow box on the tank.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/100_3763.jpg

Pic of the sump with baffles in position but not glued yet.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/100_3765.jpg

This is the cabinet that will house the kalk reactor, RO storage, electrical, chiller (????), ballast, etc...

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_3064.jpg

Here is a pic of the kalk reactor I purchased a while ago and my rocks cooking as well. Sorry I forgot to post these pics earlier but here they are now....

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_3081.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_3080.jpg

This clears up all the updates to this point. Tomarow I am leaving for vacationso dont expect any new progress but feel free to leave me any commets or suggestions.

[Milleme]

Well im back but tomarow i leave again to Mississippi with a church group..... so nothing new on the build.


Heres a cople pics of my African Flameback to keep things intresting until I get back.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/flameback2.jpg

I also have this hosptial pump but can not figure out how to get it to workon my layout. Any suggestions?

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/Stuff/100_2956.jpg

[Milleme]

I am home, again.... Anyways, today I ordered a Precision Marine ES 100 with sedar 7000 pump. It is rated for 100 gal. so I will have a nice clean tank (also room to upgrade). Any one have commets on this skimmer? I am waiting for the skimmer to arive before I glue in the baffles for the sump. I need it to help plan the waters route and incorporate a bubble trap. I will post a pic or diagram of the sump layout for any interested later this week when I figure it out.

BTW, if a mod reads this, I would like to get this thread moved to the Reef Discussion forum if possible.

[Milleme]

Well the skimmer arived today, this thing is gonna rip! The quality and craftsmanship really stands out to me more than my old Euro Reef. Heres a pic.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/100_4255.jpg

I also took an old 10 gallon tank to a friends glass shop and used her dremel tool to cut a hole for the bulkhead. Nothing too exciting so Im not gonna bother posting a pic but will later once it is plumbed in.

Sorry this is probably gonna end up being a slow build since Im on a teenage budget, but it will get there. The next stepis the stand then I can start plumbing and getting it ready for water. Im hopping to be done before the end of summer.

[Scuba_Steve]

I have the same size tank (glass) and I loved it. Its the best size you can have for a single 250w halide. The only complaint I had on mine was the internal overflow getting in the way, but you got around that one. Ill be following along.

[taketz]

Millme, looks like it might be about time for an avatar change. ;)

[Milleme]

Scuba_Steve, thanx for the commet. I agree, I am getting excided about this tank size.

Taketz, hahaha, Im on it. Has your BM come in yet?

[taketz]

Yeah, not yet. Those Germans might know how to engineer some nice machinery but I'll be damned if they can read a Calendar.

No worries though, it should almost be ready to ship...I hope

[Milleme]

Yesterday my sedra 7000 pump for the skimmer came in so I started to layout my sump design and work out where all the baffles will go. This skimmer ended up being a bit bigger than I thought.. But I think I figured it out, heres a diagram. Tell me what you think.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/untitled.jpg

[Kentanner11]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10323684#post10323684 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Milleme

Sorry this is probably gonna end up being a slow build since Im on a teenage budget, but it will get there.

It can be done on a teenage budget, Im doing a 55 right now, and am a teenager (who's out of work durring the summer)
lol! looks great! Good luck!:rollface: :rollface: :rollface:

[Milleme]

Since this is an acrylic tank does it need to be set ontop of a layer of foam or is it small enough to get by?

[Milleme]

Since this is an acrylic tank does it need to be set ontop of a layer of foam or is it small enough to get by? I need to know this soon because I am planning the stand now. If it needs to sit on foam I will have to figure out a way to cover that up when I build the stand.

Kentanner11 thanx for the encouragment. I got my first job this summer and that has helped a lot with this setup so far.

[Kentanner11]

so this is in addition to your 58g reef?

IMO I would put it on a layer of foam just to be safe. You can go to like a joans, or a michaels, or a craft store to get foam cheap. Tell them you are looking for seat cushion and it will be in that area.

[Milleme]

Originally I was going to redo my 58 gal. When I was drilling it for the external overlow it cracked. My mistake was cutting the slot square instead of making the corners curved. I accidentally set the drill I was using done to hard on the tank and the weight of the drill put enough stress on it to crack. So after a month of being ****ed off I started planning this set up to replace it. Which isnt neccesarily a bad thing because I think I will like this tank better.

[Kentanner11]

that sucks!

[Milleme]

Tell me about it..........

[Kentanner11]

I didnt even try drilling mine! I have a 55 in progress. Hey how old are you?

[Milleme]

Im 16. Do you have a thread for your 55.

[manderx]

got any pics of the overflow? looks like i'm going to make myself a very similar tank. probably 28x24 though, just to make it easier to squeeze vho/t5 into the hood.

[Kentanner11]

No I dont have a thread yet, getting around to it....

[Milleme]

Manderx, sorry for the delay.. Heres a pic of the overflow.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/000_0373.jpg

Kentanner post the thread here so I can find it when you begin.

[Milleme]

The tank is slowly but surely getting closer to being ready to set up. Yesterday I began building the stand, with the help of my dad. A frame for the front and back were built out of 1x4's and held together with 1/2" plywood. We joined several peices of pine together with biscuits and glue to form the top were the tank will sit. The sump will sit on a sliding drawer so that I can pull it out from under the stand for maintanence. We still need to put the doors on, attach the top, and sand and finish. So far it has turned out a lot better than I expected and is very sturdy!

The stand
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/000_0376.jpg

Glides for the drawers (rated for 100lbs)
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/000_0379.jpg

Question: What is every one using to seal the inside of their stands?

[Theexp]

That tanks looking great. I've always wanted to build my own tank. THis is like exactly what ihad in mind for my first tank, but i got a good deal on a 65. The Build looks great. I used some kilz primer to seal mine. You can check out my thread by hitting my read house
BTW i'm 17

[Milleme]

Thanx man! Building this tank has been a lot of fun although it does take that much more time to get it up and running. I cant wait to see it on the stand filled up....

Is the kilz primer water resistant? I am wanting something that will seal the inside completely.

BTW I was already subscribed to your thread... Nice build, I like all your DIY stuff!

[Kentanner11]

Kiltz is water resistant, Its really cool, cauz we spilled some and let it dry and it came up like a sheet of laytex, very stretchy and I doubt any water could get through.

[Milleme]

Sounds like some good stuff! I guess ill give it a try then, thanx.

[Milleme]

I made some more progress on the stand today. We put the top on, completed the drawer and made the doors. Here are some pics!

Full shot
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/000_0389.jpg

Full shot with drawer pulled out
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/000_0390.jpg

1 of 2 doors
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/000_0393.jpg

All thats left to do is put the doors on and finish painting and staining. I am hoping to have this done by next weekend. So I can get the tank running by the weekend after that! (if im lucky)

Tonight I am also going to order a GenX PCX30 for my return pump.

[DB06]

A little off topic, but how do you like that Rigid Table Saw?

[Theexp]

Looking great. The quality of construction is really really nice. Have you tried the slides with the sump full? I have a set of big strong slides, that i was thinking about using for the same thing, but decided against it. But if it works well i might do it on a different project.

[Milleme]

DB06, I really like the table saw although it is really the only one I have ever used so I have nothing to compare it to. But I would recomend it.

Theexp, Thanxs! I havent tried the drawer with water in the sump yet but I think it will work.

[Milleme]

I cut a piece of black acrylic to put in the inside of the overflow box so you cant see into it when viewing the tank. But if I do this when i paint the back black or whatever you will still be able to see the 1/2" acrylic seams. My other option would be to cut a big enough peice of black acrylic to fit along the whole back wall of the inside of the tank.

Heres a pic of the peice I cut for the overflow. Let me know what you think would look best.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/000_0398.jpg


Today I am going to begin staining the stand. I am using Early American (same color as the cabinet). I will post picks when its finished in a couple days.

[serenity]

Great job on the tank so far. Keep up the great work!

[Milleme]

Thanx!

[Der_Iron_Chef]

Yeah, everything looks great! With external overflows, I've always been bothered by the fact that you can see the joints when you look into the tank. So I've considered in my upcoming cube build, making the whole back piece out of black acrylic. I don't know. It does look good so far....well done.

[Milleme]

Thanks! I agree, I will regret it if I leave those joints showing. I am going to just put a whole peice inside.

[newreef8584]

Why not do a test with window vinyl or something else none permanent?

I think if you cover the entire back of the tank and overflow the seams would be much less visible.

On my next project I too will be using an external overflow as well but will be using all black acrylic to build the back of the tank to avoid the seams as much as possible.

[Milleme]

So do you think if I cover the back of the box it will black out the seams when looking at them? I will probably pick up some of that vinyl to play with before I decide which one I use.

Ya I thought of that but then I would of had to buy a hole new sheet of acrylic.

update
Finished the second coat of polyester to the stand, I will post pics later. Once it dries I will sand it and determine if it needs another coat or not. My return pump should be coming in soon as well so I can start plumbing. The tank should be up and running by the end of the month.

[dogstar74]

Try painting the outside of the overflow box with Krylon Fusion Black spray paint. The part that will really light up the joint is the edge of the overflow's pieces. Thus if you make them black, then the one remaining side should also turn black.

I don't think I am making myself too clear, but Paint all the outside edges of the overflow box, even the top edge, and you should not have too much of a problem hiding the joint when looking from the front of the tank.

You could always glue up a small mock up with extra pieces and paint it if you don't want to paint your display tank without knowing for sure.

I think you are a kid with a lot of moxy man, and this is exceptional work for a 16 y/o. Keep up the great work!

[surfnvb7]

i recently set up a very similar cube tank. my tank is 24x24x20, built out of 3/8" acrylic. there is an external overflow, and i have about 3" of eurobrace around the top.

so far, my only problems with it is that i would redesign the sump to accomodate a stronger return pump, and i'd split the return plumbing to come up to the front 2 corners. i have 2 nanostreams (6025's) in the back two corners, and the flow is strong enough to kick up the sand in the front.....but not too bad when i put enough rock up front.

i was thinking about putting 2 nanostreams (6025's) also in the front, but i dont want them to be an eye sore in the front of the tank. so eventually once i get a new redesigned sump, i'll put in those return lines to the front corners (the nice thing about having eurobracing).

also, my back wall is actually 5/8", and the magnets on the nanostreams are BARELY holding them up.....so its gonna be challenging to find magnets strong enough to hold any sort of frag rack.

my only other problem has been trying to figure out how to clean the inside of the acrylic without scratching it.....sigh. any ideas?

i'll put up a pic in a little while.

[Kentanner11]

why not a super stregnth magna float for acrylic?

[surfnvb7]

*most* magnet cleaners that say they are acrylic safe, are definitely NOT acrylic safe...lol and theres always a chance sand might get stuck in them and get dragged along the acrylic, so you gotta be very careful.

[Kentanner11]

yea i just thought of that, exp if you go near the sand.

[Milleme]

Dogstar, thanx for the good words! I understand what you were saying. Once I pick up some viynl I will test it on the outside of the box.

Surfnvb7, your tank sounds nice. I haven't decided on the 6025 or the 6045 yet. I will be using one nano stream along with one of Tunze's older model power heads. For scraping the acrylic I was just going to use a credit card fastend to a magnet or something along those lines. I have had sand under the magnet even scrape my glass tank. Btw if you have a tank thread post it here for me..


Sorry I couldnt get a good pic of the stand tonight but will tomarow.

[surfnvb7]

here we go......unfortunately, my tank build thread is on another forum..... :(

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hokieatrain7/50g%20cube%20tank%20build/IMG_1706.jpg

[Kentanner11]

/\ very cool rock work!

[Milleme]

Hey really nice tank man! I like it a lot.

Right now im stuck out in Walburg Tx for my family reunion so I can't work on the tank any today (theres not much to do until I get my return pump in anyways though).

[newreef8584]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10526970#post10526970 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kentanner11
why not a super stregnth magna float for acrylic?

Save yourself a little money. If you have an old magfloat laying around, cut a small piece of felt and place it between the cleaner side and the acrylic. Clean up the tank and then dispose of the fabric. Local fabric shops sell felt by the yard for very cheap.

But as stated by others be mindful of the sand...

[latazyo]

Milleme

first of all - it appears that your handiwork is very good

since it appears that you have not filled your tank yet I HIGHLY recommend that you at least fit and build a eurobrace in case you need it

why do I think you'll need it? because here is my 24x18x18 made out of 1/2" cast acrylic

http://bitz.net/~latazyo/Pics/Aqua/37RR/222007/tankbow2.JPG

that took about 4 months to develop, I had to drain the tank and put stuff in a holding tank...it was a huge pain in the ***

if you at least build the eurobrace now you will be able to just glue it on in case yours does the same thing mine did and you wont have to drain everything and move everything (including your sandbed)

it was my 24" span that bowed, so I am very concerned about you having 4-24" spans

[surfnvb7]

wow! oh yeah, i'd definitely put in a eurobrace.....about 3" would be best. you could get away with 3/8" thick acrylic to save some money.

[latazyo]

that happened months ago, I already E-braced it

I jsut dont want it to happen to him since he's using the same acrylic

[Milleme]

DP




























:lol: if my friends read they would laugh.

[Milleme]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10536319#post10536319 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by newreef8584
Save yourself a little money. If you have an old magfloat laying around, cut a small piece of felt and place it between the cleaner side and the acrylic. Clean up the tank and then dispose of the fabric. Local fabric shops sell felt by the yard for very cheap.

But as stated by others be mindful of the sand...

Hey thats a great idea man, thanx! You will probably see me post pics of something similar to what you described down the road, so check back to see your idea in use.




Latazyo, YIKES! Dang bro thanx for the warning I was getting very close to filling the system with water also. One sec, let me go check if I have enough acrylic for a euro brace.....

Okay I got the following size pieces of 1/2" acrylic in my garage
-16x18
-14x16
-5x18
-6x24

So the first option would be to strip the 6x24 piece down the middle. Then use each of those to support two of the four sides. Although this would leave me with the other two sides unbraced.
Second available option would be to cut squares or triangles to use as wedges for support on all four corners. My last option is of course to go to the store and buy acrylic for the eurobrace.

Any one with experience bracing acrylic tanks let me know what option would be the best or if there any better ways of doing so.

[snulma1]

Hey Milleme! Nice build so far! I woke up this morning and actually said to my GF lets think about building a cube tank, and we said the exact same dimensions as you!

Great build, and im def with you on figuring out the eurobracing. IF you go to www.GARF.org there is a link for tank building and I believe it will tell you the best way to brace it. Good luck!

[Milleme]

Thanx for the link man! Its definately a cool size for a tank, I can't wait to get it running now that its all coming together after this whole summer.

PICS of the aquarium on the stand in my room.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4303.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4304.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4299.jpg

[Milleme]

Hey Kentanner, did you mean Kilz when you typed "Kiltz"? I was just rereading a section and noticed this. Wanted to make sure I got the right stuff......... thanx/

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10446674#post10446674 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kentanner11
Kiltz is water resistant, Its really cool, cauz we spilled some and let it dry and it came up like a sheet of laytex, very stretchy and I doubt any water could get through.

[Kentanner11]

/\ yea I thoght it was kiltz, wierd lol!

[Milleme]

hahaha, thanx bro, just makin sure..........

[sanosuke]

You've inspired me to start on my build soon? What did you cut the acrylic with?

[newreef8584]

Latazyo, YIKES! Dang bro thanx for the warning I was getting very close to filling the system with water also. One sec, let me go check if I have enough acrylic for a euro brace.....

Okay I got the following size pieces of 1/2" acrylic in my garage
-16x18
-14x16
-5x18
-6x24

So the first option would be to strip the 6x24 piece down the middle. Then use each of those to support two of the four sides. Although this would leave me with the other two sides unbraced.
Second available option would be to cut squares or triangles to use as wedges for support on all four corners. My last option is of course to go to the store and buy acrylic for the eurobrace.

Any one with experience bracing acrylic tanks let me know what option would be the best or if there any better ways of doing so. [/B]

If at all possible I would get a new piece of acrylic big enough to cut a 1 piece Euro Brace. You don't need 1/2" either. You could get 3/8 or even 1/4" The brace doesn't need to be super thick. I use a 1/4" brace on mine and it was wet tested for a few weeks with approx 1/32" of flew at the centre. Just looking at the quality of the workmanship on your tank I shudder at the thought of you topping it off with a multi piece brace. JMO

[Milleme]

Sanosuke, Thanx a bunch! It feels good and means a lot to know what I've done has impacted someone else. I cut the acrylic with a standard table saw. Just make sure to use a blade with small teeth, I think they make them specifically for acrylic but the ones made to cut plywood worked for me. Also be sure to use a jointer for the edges, the smoother the sides are the better the seam will turn out. If you start a thread pm or post the link so I can follow.

Newreef8584, thanks. That is my plan for today. I am goning to go see if the acrylic store has any scraps big enough. I will check back if I get some before I start building it.

On the eurobrace I was thinking of glueing the brace on the inside of the tank with about 1/2" gap from the top of the tank to the brace so that I could lay a screen down so keep fish from surfing. Has any one done it this way? I will post a diagram of the above to help clarify.....

[latazyo]

Milleme, when I built my eurobrace I didnt realize that I didnt need 1/2" acrylic, even so my 24x18" piece of 1/2" to be used for the brace was only $30....definitely worth NOT patching a brace with your scraps...it would totally ruin your tank

a thinner 24x24" piece will probably be similarly priced or less

the brace isnt as bad as it seems at first
as you can see on mine its only about 1 1/2 - 2" on the sides
http://bitz.net/~latazyo/Pics/Aqua/37RR/382007/newbrace.JPG

and it totally cures the bow
http://bitz.net/~latazyo/Pics/Aqua/37RR/382007/nowmorebow2.JPG

[Milleme]

Latazyo, that brace looks nice, thanx for the pics. I am sold on the eurobrace, Iwill be picking up acrylic later on today (havent decided on thickness yet, waiting to see what is available).


One other thing I need to fix with the tank is the overflow cut. It is only 1" deep from the top of the tank. I have a feeling this isnt going to work (I wasnt thinking when I did this). Is 2" deep enough? I will have about 700/800 gph going over the 12" linear overflow.

[latazyo]

why wont that work?

the RC calculator says 12" for 800gph

I think an inch will be ok...you dont want too much dead space at the top

[Milleme]

It just looked way to close to the top of the tank, I was scared about splashing from water flow etc. I just got the router and trimmed it down to 1.5" so there would be a little extra space. I can also adjust this with the black piece of acrylic I have in the box behind the overflow. If it looks funny with the water level that low I can just cut a new peice of black acrylic to slide in there. Its more of a just in case feature.

Anyways I got the acrylic for the brace, cut out the center and have begun glueing it. Me and my dad were to lazy to get out the router so we cut the middle out with the table saw, it turned out a little more sketchy than i would have liked but it does look nice. I actually almost like the look with the brace more. The brace also gave me a place to put a bulkhead for the return from the fuge. Latazyo thanx again for recomending that, I would've been in big trouble.

Will post pics when finished.

[latazyo]

sounds good

waiting for the pics

[Milleme]

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4316.jpg

Heres another view
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4308.jpg

Now if i could only figure out how to apply the black viynl from petsmart. Anyone got a hint.

[BruiseAndy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10553113#post10553113 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Milleme
Now if i could only figure out how to apply the black viynl from petsmart. Anyone got a hint. [/B]

Have you ever tried the paint on black latex...wait wrong forum.

[marioensf]

Hi !

I've been reading on this posting/thread, today I went to Home Depot looking for some adhesive for plexi but don't know what brand/kind to buy, last thing I want to do is poisoning a tank I'm working on. Plexi to join is 1/4 inch; I'm installing or building an internal filter on an Oceanic 40G cube, something similar to the Nano or Bio-cubes

[Milleme]

I have only worked with acrylic, I use a solvent called weld on #4. I am not sure if this is the same stuff you use for plexi or not. Maybe someone with more experience in other products will chime in. Sorry I couldnt be more help.

[BruiseAndy]

look under plastics in the yellow pages should be quite a few places you can buy it from in there.

[newreef8584]

if it is the same as the adheasive window vinyl I used, wet the section to be covered with soapy water then peel and stick the vinyl and squeegy out the bubbles with a plastic scraper or credit card.

[latazyo]

brace looks good

[Milleme]

Newreef, I'll have to try that. When I was messin with it I did pull a thin layer off the color side but it pulled the color up with it I guess all I need to do different is soap it.

Latazyo, thanx bro!

[Milleme]

Nothing big to update, I have just been doing finishing touches on the setup. I made some trays out of acrylic for the sump to hold media, made the standpipes (one is taller so it will be used as a backup, if one can't handle the flow I will lower the taller one..), painted the back of the fuge and assembled some basic plumbing parts. I dont want to start plumbing until I get the pump in so I can layout the equipment and space everything out right. The first pump I ordered was backordered so I ordered a different one from salty critter friday.

I also picked up some 100% polyester fabrick from Handcox to make some filter socks as well as black krylon fusion to paint the white pvc on the plumbing work.

[Milleme]

My pump finally came in so i am going to begin plumbing soon. Heres a pic of most of the most of the fittings the pump and the standpipes. I couldn't get a very good pic for some reason but watever here it is.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4352.jpg

Heres a better pic of the standpipes. Any tips on making them better are welcome. I was thinking of putting some screen on the intake but am not sure if I want to bother with it. What do yall think.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4328.jpg

I also painted the back and right side of the tank black with krylon fusion. Once I finish putting shelves on the cabinet for the equipment I will be able to start glueing the plumbing. Im hoping to finish this today or tommarow. pics to come..

[Milleme]

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/ATOdiagram.jpg

This is my ATO design so far. I am going to try and just use gravity to feed the reactor which will then go to the sump via gravity as well. If this doesnt work I guess I will need to get some kind of dosing pump. I have never set up an auto top off so I may need some help but it doesnt seem too complicated.

I have a Spectra Pure 90 gpd RO/DI unit but I have no way to connect it to my reservour. My bathroom is across the hall but I dont think there would be enough pressure to have the RO line go across the hall, my room and up to the reservour. So, I will most likely have to manually fill the reservour when ever it gets low.

Wait.

I just realized I could put the RO unit in my room and have the input line go across the hall, this would give me enough pressure from the sink, maybe. Then the RO would top off the reservour when ever it gets low. This will probably require an elaborate layout of a soleniod and float swithches though right. Then I will need somwhere to bleed the waste water..... I am a tad confused if you can't tell so any tips would be helpful. What I really need is someone to come look at my setup in person. If any one local would be interested in helping me out shoot me a pm.

[Chrisrush]

I don't think that you need a standpipe for the taller, emergency drain.

[Milleme]

ya i guess your right. But it wont hurt anything having it there will it? If I decide I need more flow I can just shorten it and have two drains. But I doubt I will need more flow.

[serenity]

Great job on the tank, wish I was more handy :D hehe. I am having the same size tank built for the kids. Keep up the great work!

[argetni44]

are those returns on the bottom of the tank in that one shot of the tank in construction a few pics down on the first page? or part of the aquascaping?

[argetni44]

now that ive seen where you have gone with this project the whole way... i like it a lot... at first i was just looking at the first page... but i have to say... nice job man...

[manderx]

i wouldn't worry about running the output of the RO far. i have a friend that has his go up into his attic, 30' across, then down to his sump. some people recommend bumping up to 3/8" for long runs like that, but since the flow rate is so slow i'm not sure if it really matters.

running kalk through a float valve is usually a bad idea. it'll get crusty over time and might have trouble sealing.

so i'd get a float switch or two, relay and a cheap peristaltic off ebay. or get an adjustable peristaltic and use it with a timer to work like a litermeter. nice thing about the peristaltic over other pumps (powerhead/aqualifter) is you can suck water through the kalk reactor rather than push. this way when the tip clogs it'll just blow out the clog rather than leaking out the reactor body.

then get a solenoid for the input on the RO so you can have it come on once a day automatically just long enough to fill a small topoff reservoir up to a float valve.

[Milleme]

serenity Great job on the tank, wish I was more handy hehe. I am having the same size tank built for the kids. Keep up the great work!

Thanx. Goodluck with your tank, let me know if you start a thread for it.

argetni44 now that ive seen where you have gone with this project the whole way... i like it a lot... at first i was just looking at the first page... but i have to say... nice job man...

Thank you! You had me a little confused at first, I guess you were looking at newreefs tank.


Manderx, thanx for the info that cleared some of the fog. This is exciting news. NO MORE BUCKETS!! Do you know were I might be able to find a fitting to connect the RO line to my bathroom sink? Also does any one have any ideas about what to do with the waste water?

I wish I hadn't drilled my sump for the float valve now.... would it still work if I just poured warm RO water over it every week or two? I will probably just put a piece of acrylic over the hole.... How do you wire the relay to the perstaltic pump?

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/Stuff/100_2956.jpg

I have this hospital pump ^^^. I couldn't ever figure out how to work the thing :p. But I got the feeling that it only doses and relies on gravity so I figured it wouldn't work for this application. Is it the same thing as a perstaltic pump?

For the solenoid do you have to have a relay for the float valve to signal the soleniod. My knowledge of solenoids is very limited, any links or info on how they work would be much appreciated.

Sorry about all the questions :strooper:

[manderx]

Do you know were I might be able to find a fitting to connect the RO line to my bathroom sink? Also does any one have any ideas about what to do with the waste water?

this is what you want for the RO to connect to the plumbing under a bathroom sink.
INLINE UNDERSINK SHUTOFF ADAPTER
http://thefilterguys.biz/fittings.htm

anyone selling ro parts probably has something similar.



for the wastewater, sending it outside for a garden is about the best, especially if it's automated. but you probably won't be using so much water that it'll be that big a deal. cut your shower a minute or two short most days and you'll probably save more water than you waste.


would it still work if I just poured warm RO water over it every week or two?

maybe. but it only takes that one clump to keep it from sealing. though to be honest, if it fills up over the float valve, it'll be putting alot of pressure on the gasket, which would probably be enough to bust the kalk clump and get a seal again. dunno, but it's best not to tempt it.


How do you wire the relay to the perstaltic pump?
depends on the pump. your hospital pump probably has a backup battery, which means you can't simply toggle the power on and off to turn it on and off. some have this bypassed, you may be lucky with yours. or you could forget the float switch and just manually tell it how much to dose per day (just like a litermeter). you'll just need to keep an eye on it and adjust it ever so often (much less often than you'd think).


if you do want to float switch it, and if it does turn on and off when you toggle the power, and not lock up in an error mode, then go to radio shack and get a 120v relay. relays are incredibly simple, the basic ones have 4 pins on them. 2 of them power an electromagnet and take the low voltage (9 or 12v usually) to activate it. this throws a switch inside that opens or closes the 120v circuit. so, use an appropriate power supply through a float switch to the relay. then wire the 120v pins to an outlet or chopped extension cord. you won't have any trouble with it.


I have this hospital pump ^^^. I couldn't ever figure out how to work the thing :p.
you need to get a dripset for it. it's a piece of tubing with stop-blocks in it to hold it in place with tension around the rollers.


But I got the feeling that it only doses and relies on gravity so I figured it wouldn't work for this application. Is it the same thing as a perstaltic pump?

if you find a dripset it should work. it is a kind of peristaltic. i prefer the regular lab ones though. the medicals rely on tension around the rollers to pinch the tubing (which cases the tubing to stretch over time and usually last 2-3 weeks). the lab ones squeeze the tubing between the rollers and a fixed wall and the tubing lasts years.

For the solenoid do you have to have a relay for the float valve to signal the soleniod.

if you get a 120v solenoid, you just wire it to an old plug and plug it right into a timer. nothing to it. do a quick search to see which one the cool kids are using these days. i got mine years ago off mcmaster.com for 20 bucks.

[NanoReefWanabe]

i think both your stand pipes should be the same height...and one of them should have an upturned elbow..that way it will gurgle and flush..letting you know there is a problem..

and second thing i would do is go to your one of your local gas fitting outlets and buy yourself a can of Crown Rust Control...and spray the snot out of you sliders...i know the hinges inside my cabinet have completely rusted apart and my door fell off...as far as i know water never got directly on them either...

other then that....all i can say is wow your tank and craftsmanship are awesome...i am also in the midst of planning a cube...

[nynex]

Milleme I know this was earlier in the post.

But here is the description of the weldon #16 from http://www.rplastics.com/

Weld-On #16 Plexiglas Glue in Tubes, Pints and Gallons
Fast-setting, medium bodied (SYRUPY), high strength Acrylic cement. Also bonds
rigid PVC, ABS, styrene, butyrate, polycarbonate to themselves and each other, as
well as other plastics and porous surfaces. Great all-around Plexiglas and Lexan
Glue. May leave bubbles however the bonding strength is superior to #3 or #4 for
water-tight applications. If parts do not fit tightly, #16 helps fill the gap.

Also #40 is the one to use that melts the acrylic together. Ive used this before,
it bonded nicely but was a pain to use. The glue in applicator was only good for
20mins or so, when after that the applicator bottle became so hot I couldnt hold it
anymore. So you have to be fast.

The #16 is kinda messy and real syrupy...but it works very well to seal and fill in
any gaps...if you dont care about bubbles in your seams...

thought I would share..

[Milleme]

Manderx, thanx for all the info man your helpin me out a bunch! The only problem I have now is my parents..... they don't like the idea of having a line going across the hall. So I told them I would run it through the atic (they didnt fall for that one). My last idea was to run a hose from outside to my window and plumb it from there but it would probably freeze up in the winter. The only other thing I can think of would be to get a sink built into my room. But I don't even want to know how much that would cost.... Any ideas for me guys?? I havent tried bribing, or cherry on top yet.

Nanoreefwanabe, good Idea on the standpipe. That should be an easy fix. Thanx for the tip on the sliders to! Ill go check some places tomarow. ;) You have to post a link once you start a thread for your build.

O ya, any ideas on were to locate one of those hospital pump dripsets? My neighbor is a nurse so I may ask her. But I don't think Ill be using it for the auto top off I wouldn't have the patience to change out the tubing every 2-3 weeks. I may incorpurate it with a rotifer breeding station or something later on.

[Milleme]

nynex, thanx for the info on the weldon. Now if any one asks ill know what to tell them. I saw the #16 at the plastics store but im not sure if I want to mess with applying it although it probably would help (I have a couple bubbles, the pics just dont show it...)

[manderx]

i'm following this thread especially closely because a friend and i are about to get started on a pair of 28x24x20 tanks very similar to yours. 28" wide just so it'll be easier to cram 24" fluorescent supplements over it if we want. that and make the bottom, back and top bracing out of black. but otherwise pretty much the same thing.


i hate #16. too many bubbles in it as it dries. i love 40 though. i mix it and apply with a syringe or paintbrush depending. i was originally thinking of doing the joints with 40 because it seems easier for me to get bubblefree joints, plus it's stronger than 4. but since *everyone* seems to use 4 i'll play it safe and use 4 myself. but i might go over all the inside joints with a fillet of 40 just because.

[Milleme]

Sounds like a fun build, I would now..... Why make the top brace out of black? Wouldn't that shade the tank. Or is it to make the side panes hidden so that the eye is focused on the middle?

Ya you better stick with #4, dont want to upset the acrylic gods.

[manderx]

Why make the top brace out of black? Wouldn't that shade the tank. Or is it to make the side panes hidden so that the eye is focused on the middle?

i'm planning on keeping the brace around 2" wide so it shouldn't shade anything. and black because clear means one more place to clean as salt creep and lime scale builds up under it. and i've never seen it before, so why not.

and i just thought of the greatest reason of all. so that you're not looking at bubbles in the seams :)

[Milleme]

I think it will look pretty cool. Looking straight on will give it a frame. No bubbles, no problems. ;) It would be interesting to see a tank with all the sides but the front, top and bottom black.

What do you use to clean the outsides. I remember reading windex is bad.

[manderx]

no, the sides will be clear. it's just the top, back and bottom that will be black.

[Milleme]

Ya I got you. I was just saying that would also be cool.

[Milleme]

Well I met my goal of getting the tank wet before school started, tonight. I finished all the plumbing (finally) and began a fresh water test. At first I was trippin' because i had like 3 leaks going and I didn't know what to do but after the initial filling once i calmed down I figured it all out. The genx is a bit louder than I was thinking but Ill live with it.

I was planning on draining the tap water and filling with ro but it has gotten too late now. and I gotta go to first day a school tomarow :o

[Milleme]

Well I met my goal of getting the tank wet before school started, tonight. I finished all the plumbing (finally) and began a fresh water test. At first I was trippin' because i had like 3 leaks going and I didn't know what to do but after the initial filling once i calmed down I figured it all out. The genx is a bit louder than I was thinking but Ill live with it.

I was planning on draining the tap water and filling with ro but it has gotten too late now. and I gotta go to first day a school tomarow :o I will post pictures tomarow!! CHECK BACK

[Milleme]

PICS like I promised of the tank in position and plumbed.

A couple full views
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4368.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4369.jpg

Sump
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4370.jpg

Top I made
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4374.jpg
I forgot to calculate the corner pieces that hold the sides together so it doesn't exactly sit in the eurobrace like I planned but I will probably redo it later once it starts to bug me.

[snulma1]

nice job! It looks real good! Just a FYI, if you buy a mouse pad and put it under your external pump, it may help silence it a bit!

[Milleme]

thats a good idea, I was just using some drawer/ cabinet liner (not very thick). Thanx.

[manderx]

got any pics of it up and running? how much flow are you putting over the overflow? wish it was wider or narrower? i just finished building a plywood mockup of a 28x24x20 to test various overflow designs...

[latazyo]

excellent top Milleme

Im selling my tank, but Im glad you were able to benefit from my having to brace it

I got a new tank, so I'll still be around and watching your thread

once school started for me it slowed me down to about 1/4 pre-school speed, so keep us updated even if you arent doing much on the project

[Milleme]

up n running

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/1-1.jpg

[Milleme]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10666773#post10666773 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by manderx
got any pics of it up and running? how much flow are you putting over the overflow? wish it was wider or narrower? i just finished building a plywood mockup of a 28x24x20 to test various overflow designs...

The return pump is turned down almost half way right now because i dont have the fuge running yet so im probably getting 400-500 gph over the overflow but thats just a guess. It is handling that much flow nicely so im sure it will be able to handle another 100-200 gph from the fuge.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10667262#post10667262 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by latazyo
excellent top Milleme

Im selling my tank, but Im glad you were able to benefit from my having to brace it

I got a new tank, so I'll still be around and watching your thread

once school started for me it slowed me down to about 1/4 pre-school speed, so keep us updated even if you arent doing much on the project

Thnx!

Thanx to you my tank won't end up on the floor. What size is the new tank?

I have actually been working on getting all leaks fixed and everything to run smoothly and tuned everyday after school this week. Im grounded so its given me a chance to really establish everything and work out a lot of kinks.


updates
As you can see the aquascaping is complete. I actually got that on my first try. What do yall think, the only thing I may change is how some of the higher rocks are stacked. The existing hood isnt centered so I will have to make a new one. It is hung from the cieling on tracks and will slide above the fuge as well. I had my mom sew me a filter sock out of 100% polyester from handcox fabricks that has worked really well. 3$ a yrd and each yard could probably make around ten. The skimmer is still breaking in and I have the drain emptying into the sump so I have a bunch of micro bubbles in the sump. I also couldn't wait and added a green trumpet coral, 1 nassuraus and 2 scarlet hermits for fun.

Other than that I have had some trouble with a couple leaks int he plumbing. I bought some epoxy called miliput and applied it but still waiting for it to finish curring.

[Milleme]

Got the micro bubbles taken care of so I took some pics of the tank. These are acticic shots with a funky white balance, I thought they looked cool.

side view
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4411.jpg

trumpet coral
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4412.jpg

[Milleme]

The tank is running pretty smooth now, i still have'nt gotten the refugium online permanetly. WHenever i fill it up the drain into the tank makes way too many bubbles I need to figure out a way to fix this before I begin putting stuff in it.

I transfered some green zoas and a green ricordea to the tank as well as a aquaculture colony of A. millepora, It has green tips with pink base and polyps. The lfs had a sale and i couldn't resist. This is the first sps into the system so i'll keep an update of its health. As soon as it was introduced it had out its polyps.

The tank is kinda like a wasteland right now 95% of the rock is base rock that i "over cooked", so i have been target feeding all my corals including individual polyps one at a time as well as the snails. The kalkreactor is also temporarily set up to run with the kent float, I manually turn a valve on the reservour to let gravity feed water through the reactor and to the sump.

The rock is getting a thin layer of algae, im hoping this is the peak of the cycle. Now that the skimmer can get to its job. Heres some pics still can't get good ones...

Side shot
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4416.jpg

Front shot
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4421.jpg

A. Millepora, my lights havent made the colors pop as much as the t5s did at the lfs. I have my 250w phoenix 14k 10" above the surface. Anyone think i should lower them?
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4418.jpg

[surfnvb7]

nice rock work....i'd start putting in some snails to control that algae so it wont be an uphill battle.

also, i noticed you sorta have your rock work stacked up against the back wall. how do you plan on getting flow back behind the rocks?

[Milleme]

Thanx, I was planning on getting some snails. I would like to order them from project DIBS so that I can get some healthy, reefsafe snails that will be the most beneficial. What snails do best for hair algae?

I figure once I get two nano streams there will be enough flow bouncing off the walls to circulate behind the rocks. If there isnt enough I will just use a small power head.

[fisheebill]

Might not need to lower your light.
I would try it at 10'' for a bit.

Sweet tank!

[jcato]

nice job on the tank and stand!!

john

[Milleme]

Thanx guys!

[TandN]

This is the exact tank im looking to build well my husband lol. If you dont mind could you PM me how much it cost around for the material on the tank itself ? Also what is that, that you used on the top ?

[garrettm]

Did you build the sump yourself?

[Milleme]

garrettm, yes

[Milleme]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10727069#post10727069 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tanya72806
This is the exact tank im looking to build well my husband lol. If you dont mind could you PM me how much it cost around for the material on the tank itself ? Also what is that, that you used on the top ?

O sorry, the top was made out of window screen framing with 1/4" hole (i think) plastic mesh material from Homedepot. Ill post the original thread of how to make it later.

[Milleme]

Tank is going smooth, I put a tunze 7200 (?) oldschool powerhead in for some flow until I get some nano streams.

I'm finally seeing some micro fuana in the display. Its strange though I didn't put any rocks or sand with life on it into the display only livesand is in the refugium but I can't see any life in the fuge.

Right now i don't have the return going through the fuge because I havent figured out a way to reduce the bubbles going from the fuge to the tank. Here is a crude drawing of how its plumbed, I need some kind of stand pipe design to reduce the bubbles in the tank because air is getting in the pipe. Any ideas.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/fugeplumb.jpg

Edit: My flameback angel in the 20 gal came down with a pretty bad case of ick, its fins are pretty shredded from it. I have been feeding with mysis soaked in zoecon. I also tried garlic but didn't get good results, I dont think I prepared the food correctly. I can't decide if I should move him to the display or not. If I do he will be the only fish for a while until he is healed but I feel like he'll have a better chance in that enviornment. What do yall think?

[Kentanner11]

hey I would say NOT to put your fish in the display but I would SURELY get some other opinions!
I think that all you need to do is put in a place for the air to escape, by putting in an elbow (see diagram) but be sure this is at least 3 in higher than ALL water to prevent water coming out through this opening. you can put a cap on this as long as it has a 1/4 in hole in it.
What will happen is that all the water will flow through the pipe and the air will come out of the rushing water out through the cap. HTH!

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k33/Kentanner11/airgapinmilmesdesign.jpg

[Milleme]

AH HA thank you! That makes since its really just like a stand pipe on the overflow, right?

[Kentanner11]

yes. melev did it on his 24 that he added to his system. It was pretty much the same concept as above, except his piping from his 24 to sump was flexible and he just put in a T then a pipe with a holed cap.

[manderx]

that won't work in this case. there has to be some sort of restriction after the vent to slow the water down so that the horizontal pipe fills completely with water. the way it's drawn, it might very well introduce *more* bubbles to the display tank.

to best way i can think to make something like this work, would be to have the drain from the fuge drop down below the water level in the display (which provides the restriction), run horizontal for ~6 inches (depends on flow rate but enough distance for all the air to accumulate along the top of the pipe), then vent (with a tall pipe obviously), then up and over into the display. might be able to do it cleanly if you drain from the far end of the fuge.

[Milleme]

Like this?
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/fugeplumb2.jpg
just making sure I understand right.

I decided to go ahead and put the flameback angel in yesterday, when I transfered him he didnt have any cystes so he has either fought it off or was between cycles. I figured this would be a good time to make the transfer, so far he is still clean, eating and looking much healthier. His fins are also starting to grow back.

I also transfered an old browned out frag of A. cerealis from Reefermadness. This frag has been with me for over a year and has stayed about the smae size. It went through a lot of set backs and periods of no growth. When I recieved it it had some nice colors so im hoping to bring it back.

[ServantSoldier]

according to manderx's plan, something like this should work..
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/shiversml/overflow.jpg

the horizontal tube must be under the main displays waterline. hard to tell by the pic angle

[Milleme]

Nothing exciting to update just keeping the thread alive. All the livestock seems to be thriving.
The angel especially is looking very good, I'll try to get a pic. Since there isnt much algae in the tank I have been rotating rocks with algae on them from the 20gal. holding tank for him to graze. He usually cleans off a fist sized rock in about 3 days.
The sand is getting a barley noticable thin layer of algae on it. I can tell were nasarus snails and the cucumber have sifted it. The rocks are also starting to color up with some very pale green and pink coraline.

I still havent set up the fuge although I did get the plumbing worked out, just not attached yet.

I haven't been able to get the skimmer to pull anything substantial out yet either. Im either not being patient enough while tunning it or there is a technical problem. So I started a seperate thread to try and solve the problem. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1211684

[Theexp]

The thread is looking great. You're beating me to the set up! But my tank is coming together. When are you getting your first fish? I'm really liking the aquascape as well.

[Milleme]

Thanx! I saw your updates, your tank is gonna be sick when it is done. I actually do have one fish a flameback angel. I'll try and get a pic this evening.

[latazyo]

great scaping Milleme

[Milleme]

Latazyo, thanx man!



http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4452.jpg

[Milleme]

I added ia tunze nano stream 6025 the other day. I did a couple mods and the flow is great. Eventually I want to add another.

[Milleme]

I tackled the first water change yesterday pretty smoothly leaving the tank looking exceptionally good. I wish I could have incorporated a WC system but you can't have everything...

I also shrunk the mesh top so that it would lay inside the eurobrace on the acrylic tabs in each corner that i originally made. It now lays almost flush with the top.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4493.jpg

The skimmer is doing better but still not quite optimal. The bubbles in the neck and chamber especially aren't as dense as I thought they would be. Im still not sure why. Anyways here is a pic although it is deciving, the bubbles are not as thick as they appear.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/100_4491.jpg

The parameters as of today:

nitrites - 0 (hagen)
nitrates - 0 (hagen)
ammonia - 0 (hagen)
po4 - ? (need to take a sample to lfs)
SG - 1.023 slowly raising this
pH - 8.0
alk - 8.6 (salifert)
calcium - ? I couldn't get a good reading with hagen test kit

I have been planning my fish lineup and wanted some feedback.

Current
-african flameback angel

Additions
-5/7 threadfin cardinals
-mystery wrasse or solar wrasse

Maybe
-Chestnut/Viper moray (pg 30 500+ Essential-To-Know Aquarium Species)

Does any one have experience with this moray? I can't seem to find to much info on the net. I would like to have an exotic species to spice things up, if not the moray possibly a dwarf lion.

Other than this im just taking it slow and trying to keep my hands out of the tank.

[JohnstonAtoll]

I love these build threads, very inspiring and makes for a good read! Nice job man!

[dzeadow]

I haven't read the whole thread so I probably missed this, what did you make the mesh screen with? I have a 45 cube that I'm just cycling.. it's glass though, but I'd like to get a screen on it in the future to keep the fish in.. or at least minimize the chances of them making it out

[Milleme]

I used window screen framing for the frame. I then used some 1/4" mesh material in place of the screening. All the stuff you need to make it can be found at lowes or homedepot, altough you have to look around for the mesh material. I remeber finding it outside in the greenhouse next to the chicken wire and netting material.

There was a thread on it a while back, ill try and dig it up.

[Kentanner11]

hey most likely the reason for the skimmer foam issues is that it needs some time to "slime up" or break in, pipes will also be coated and will silence some.

[Milleme]

I pulled it out to clean it and check the plumbing over a week ago so I thinks its had time to slime up. Im not sure if thats the problem, the pics don;t show it but in the chamber the bubbles don't fill it up. The bubbles are fine though so im thinking its a flow issue although i am using the recommended sedra 7000.

[FUA]

jumping on board!!

[Milleme]

Well 8 months later and the tank still looks the same as it did on pg 6. Although it has had time to mature their is still little purprle coraline. The flameback went carpet surfing and an attempt to keep a skunk clown didn't last longer than 2 days. I also lost 2 sps pieces due to stn and bleaching. I believe these were due to low nutrient levels because of the low bioload and occasional feedings. Currently the tank holds zero fish, a trumpet coral, green zoos, a fungia plate coral, a mertens anemone, and a finger leather. Due to having no predators the fuana population has exploded in the tank. Fish plans include adding a pepermint hogfish next.

Hopefully i will get a chance to photo document the tank soon for your viewing experience.

[Bigben7]

Please update this one! I have been reading and studying cube threads today while plannig a build, and was really impressed with your craftsmanship. Keep on going...

[Milleme]

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/milleme/cube%20build/1-2.jpg