Filter recommendations

[labragg1]

I have two rodi units that I would like to order new cartridges for. One is a WaterGeneral 6100DINT 6-stage 100gpd unit and the other is a Coralife PureFlo II 50gpd 4-stage unit.

Both have shutoff valves and are connected to ATO's on currently operating aquariums.

I'm starting to think the factory sold cartridges for both these units are crap--especially the membranes. I would like to replace them with the good quality stuff that you carry.

Will I be ok using your cartridges and DI resin or do I need to replace the entire units?

What cartridges do you recommend for each unit?

I don't mind dropping down to 50 or 75 gpd, I just want pure water.

I would really appreciate your input.

Also one other question--does having really good water pressure affect rodi units in a bad way?

thanks
Luke

[BuckeyeFS]

Let me try to address each of your questions.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10265473#post10265473 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by labragg1
[B]I have two rodi units that I would like to order new cartridges for. One is a WaterGeneral 6100DINT 6-stage 100gpd unit and the other is a Coralife PureFlo II 50gpd 4-stage unit.

I searched the web a bit and did not find a picture or description of the Water Gen unit you mention. Can you send a picture or describe it? I did find a pic/description of the Coralife unit.

Both have shutoff valves and are connected to ATO's on currently operating aquariums.

I'm starting to think the factory sold cartridges for both these units are crap--especially the membranes. I would like to replace them with the good quality stuff that you carry.

Will I be ok using your cartridges and DI resin or do I need to replace the entire units? Both those units take standard sized cartridges and everything we sell will fit those units.

What cartridges do you recommend for each unit?

Water Gen - I let you know after you send a pic/description.
Coralife: Assuming you need all new filters, and assuming you are on city water without chloramine, and you want to keep the combine flow about the same, but wouldn't mind it to be purer:
1 mic sed filter
0.6 mic 20,000 gal chlorine guz carbon block
75 gpd membrane
new flow restrictor
filled, refillable di cartridge.

does having really good water pressure affect rodi units in a bad way?

Within reason (say up to about 85 or 90 psi), more pressure is better. It will increase flow and improve the performance of the membrane.

Russ

[labragg1]

Thanks for the info. The Water General unit is actually sold by Filter Direct.

Here's a link:
http://www.watergeneral.com/prdimages/4-RD106.jpg

I believe the 2nd or third stage is some sort of additional carbon block filter to get rid of odor--is this stage necessary or beneficial?
It's one of the vertical canisters and is a sealed cartridge.

Thanks a bunch for the info.

I'll be placing an order as soon as I get a complete list of what I need for both units. Please feel free to make any recommendations or changes you think would be worthwhile.

Thanks

[BuckeyeFS]

After a little more internet searching, this is what FD says in in your 6100:

1st stage: 5 mic sediment filter
2nd stage: carbon block (details not specified)
3rd stage: carbon block (details not specified)
4th stage: 100 gpd membrane
5th stage: DI filter
6th stage: granular activated carbon

Let's start off with the obvious: The system is configured in a way that is less than efficient (I'm trying to be polite!). Assuming you want a pressure tank full of drinking water, and DI water for your tank:

1. Unhook the GAC stage after the DI stage. After water goes through DI resin it is as clean as the unit can make it - running the flow through GAC after that is counterproductive.

2. Don't store DI water in the pressure tank.

3. Add a tee in the tube extending from the ASO valve (on the side connected to the permeate port on the RO housing). One of the two open ports on that tee should go to a new DI stage (see below). The other open port should extend to a check valve that only allows flow away from the tee. From the check valve, extend tubing to the tee in the "in" port on the horizontal GAC stage. From the other open port on this tee, extend tubing to your pressure tank.

4. Remove the horizontal DI stage. Replace it with an Add-on DI kit that includes a full size 10 x 2.5 inch, vertical, filled, refillable mixed bed DI cartridge.

As far as replacement filters:
1 mic sed filter
0.6 mic 20,000 gal chlorine guz carbon block
You could leave your stage 3 empty, or add a second carbon block if you'd like. I think two chlorine guzzlers is overkill.
75 gpd membrane
new flow restrictor

For both your systems, if you'd like a flush valve we have those as well.

Russ

[labragg1]

Thanks for the input. I actually don't have the pressure tank--the filter is totally dedicated to the tank--so I'm not sure if that will change your recommendations. I really don't know if the city doses chloramine--would that make a huge difference on filter recommendations?

Overall it sounds like you think the units will be fine as long as I change the filter media to good quality stuff--is that correct?

I'll place an order as soon as I hear back from you just for verification.
I assume that placing the order through your website would be the easiest?

Thanks again and I definitely plan on coming back to you guys for future needs. Thanks

[labragg1]

Two more things
1. Would it hurt to use the 50gpd membrane instead of 75? Just curious.
2. You mentioned leaving the third stage empty--would it hurt to have two sediment cartridges in the first two stages and put the chlorine guzzler in the third stage--or is that counter-productive?

[BuckeyeFS]

Yes - if you have chloramines we could put that second carbon stages to good use: you'd have a catalytic GAC stage followed by a carbon block. No need for the cat GAC if you don't have chloramine.

50 gpd membrane is fine - not a problem as long as you have a matched flow restrictor.

No problem with two sed filters (this is an unusual set up if you don't have heavy sediment loads) or two carbon blocks.

Russ

[labragg1]

Well--I just went ahead and called my city about the water--turns out they dose chloramine.

I'm also assuming that I would need to add an additional canister with this stage to the Coralife unit?

Let me see if I got this straight

Filter direct unit:
1st stage--sediment (1micron) (BFS-240)
2nd stage--cat GAC (refillable) (BFS-182)
3rd stage--Chlorine guzzler (BFS-2)
4th stage--50gph membrane (BFS-51)
5th stage--DI (BFS-72)
6th stage--yank and don't use?
Flow restrictor w/flush kit-- (BFS-65)

Is this everything I need?

I'm assuming that the Coralife unit will need the same exact thing with the addition of having to add a BFS-214 for the cat GAC as it doesn't even have this stage. Does that sound right?

sorry for all the dumb questions--i'm just wanting to make sure I get it right. :)

you guys have been extremely helpful.

[BuckeyeFS]

Yes - sounds like you've got it nailed.

Russ

[labragg1]

Just finished placing my order. :)

Please let me know if you see anything that doesn't look right.

Here's what I ordered:

1 Add-on housing kit
Item # 214 (for the Coralife unit)

1 2-pack, Specialty Sediment Cartridge, 1 Micron Depth Filter
Item # 240 (1 for each unit)

2 Carbon block cartridge - The Chlorine Guzzler
Item # 2 (1 for each unit)

2 Catalytic GAC cartridge
Item # 182 (1 for each unit)

2 50 gpd Filmtec RO membrane
Item # 51 (1 for each unit)

1 Color changing mixed bed DI resin cartridge, refillable
Item # 67 (for Coralife unit)

2 Cartridge flow restrictor for 50 gpd membrane
Item # 224 (1 for each unit)

1 Add on DI kit with color changing resin
Item # 72 (for Filter Direct unit)

I'm also assuming that items 182, 67, and 72 come full of media?

Thanks so much for all your help.

I'll definitely be doing business with you guys from now on. :)

[BuckeyeFS]

Luke - your list/order looks like you're good to go (and yes, 182, 67, and 72 include the media). Thanks.

Russ