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an411
07/31/2007, 07:40 AM
I was wondering if people still do there normal water changes even though the tank evaporates water daily in the summer heat ? Everyday I am adding a couple gallons of water to my tank I would say minimal 10 gallons a week could this just be considered an automatic water change without having to take water out .

reelsteel
07/31/2007, 07:42 AM
You need to add RO water that has been evaporated to keep the salinity right. You do water changes to add minerals into the tank. Those are 2 different things. Do you have some sort of auto top off system. If not you may look into one or a dosing pump on a timer, makes adding water a little easier. I lose about a gallon and a half a day, I have a dosing pump that runs twice a day to add the water that has evaporated.

MalHavoc
07/31/2007, 07:43 AM
You need to do water changes to replace trace elements lost by coral growth and other factors. evaporation only removes water content, and that's all your top off system puts back. Your salt mixture contains these trace elements.

an411
07/31/2007, 07:51 AM
So You top off with Ro/Di water and do water changes with salt water?

der_wille_zur_macht
07/31/2007, 07:52 AM
Yep.

an411
07/31/2007, 08:04 AM
Looks like I will be getting another brute container for saltwater for water changes.

an411
07/31/2007, 08:06 AM
Why on the subject what is the easiest way to get water out of the tank?

siphon or pump what are some methods used?

der_wille_zur_macht
07/31/2007, 08:11 AM
Depends on your system. Most people probably siphon. But, on a bigger system, it might make sense to pump water from the sump for changes. If you add a bit of plumbing, you can use your main return pump - just put a shutoff valve on the line to the tank, add a T, and another valve. Then, connect some flexible tubing to that second valve, shut off the flow to the main tank, and open your "drain" valve to pump the sump dry.

Getting the new water in is usually accomplished by another pump in the vessel holding the new water. Most people probably use a spare pump or large powerhead to mix their new saltwater, then just connect hose to that pump to get the water in to the tank.

If your tank is near a sink, tub, or other appliance with a drain, you can drain your old water directly there without having to drag buckets around. Even if you have to buy 30 - 40 ft of hose to accomplish that, it can make a HUGE difference in the ease of water changes.

Sk8r
07/31/2007, 08:13 AM
Get a 1200 Maxijet: can lift water head-high. Much easier than starting a siphon every time. Can also mix your saltwater if you take the 1/2 inch hose off. Everybody with a tank over 30g should have a spare Maxijet in case of just about everything.

I'mRisenAquaRat
07/31/2007, 08:14 AM
There is another, very important part of the story. When water evaporates it is JUST water (just H20)that you lose, no nitrates. The best way to get rid of some of them is to remove some water and replace it with clean.

WaterKeeper
07/31/2007, 08:15 AM
And remember here folks. Only the water part evaporates, everything that it contains remains behind. Hence the need for water changes to physically remove those materials that build up over time.

:lol: Ray- almost a tie.

an411
07/31/2007, 08:18 AM
der_wille_zur_macht I might have to use that idea of the T off my return I already have that but it goes into my refugium. I am going to be switching my return pump out shortly cause that Mag pump is driving me crazy with how loud it is. maybe I will use the same T but connect a flexible tubing to do water changes.

reelsteel
07/31/2007, 08:22 AM
Whatever you can do to make your water changes easier is well worth it. the less time it takes you the more willing you will be to do them.

der_wille_zur_macht
07/31/2007, 08:25 AM
You could always add another T! Trust me, anything you can do NOW to make water changes easy down the road will be well worth it. It's amazing how more likely I am to actually do changes on the tanks I have set up for automated water changes vs. those where it involves buckets and siphons and big messes.

The very large sizes of the mag line are extremely picky to how they are set up as far as noise and heat are concerned. What size plumbing are you running with it? Is it in the water or out? You're right though, replacing the pump might be an easier solution. Just make sure your setup is conducive to the new pump you choose, otherwise it might not be much better.

an411
07/31/2007, 08:36 AM
I am using 1 1/4 pvc it is in sump. I was thinking about the eheim 1262 I have that pump on my skimmer and it is so quiet compared to the mag. I know that the mag that I am using is huge I got it with the tank. The person didnt do much research and thought that bigger was better. But the mag 24 is way to much for my return. Also it costs 16 bucks a month to run compared to the eheim at 5 bucks.

der_wille_zur_macht
07/31/2007, 08:39 AM
The 1262 will be less flow, but that's probably OK in your situation. It should do OK with 1.25" PVC, which is on the small side for the Mag, probably contributing to the noise problems.

Are you throttling the mag back at all right now? What do you have for overflows on the tank?

an411
07/31/2007, 08:42 AM
Yeah I am using a ball valve which is barely open to restrict the flow of the return cause if I open it more the skimmer can't get the water into the sump fast enough to keep up. I have one corner overflow I believe rated for around 450 gph. At least that is what I have been told.

der_wille_zur_macht
07/31/2007, 08:48 AM
Ok, so the mag is definitely waaaaaay too much pump!

Do you know the diameter of the plumbing for that corner overflow?

an411
07/31/2007, 08:51 AM
its 1 inch on the return and 1 1/4 on the drain part not sure what you exactly call the pipe that brings the water to my skimmer

der_wille_zur_macht
07/31/2007, 09:19 AM
Is the skimmer rigged as part of the drain line from the tank to the sump, or does it just sit in the sump and churn away? From your comment above, it sounds like it's somehow plumbed into the drain line from the display to the sump?

an411
07/31/2007, 09:30 AM
I have a Recirculating skimmer my drain is plumbed directly to my skimmer inlet. The skimmer is not in the sump I have the return of the skimmer plumed through the side of the sump.

der_wille_zur_macht
07/31/2007, 09:41 AM
Ok, good deal. Just curious about your setup. Running the skimmer directly off the display drain like that is probably more efficient, but a little restrictive, as you're now discovering.

an411
07/31/2007, 09:56 AM
Yeah I was told that a pump to feed the skimmer was the correct way to do it but I like taking chances and figure since I dont have any crazy plumbing going to the skimmer inlet from the drain that I should be fine its a piece of flex tube with a 90 that connects to the skimmer inlet and the skimmer in my opinion is well fed with water.

der_wille_zur_macht
07/31/2007, 10:01 AM
The big benefit you're getting from a system rigged to direct feed the skimmer like yours is that the dirtiest water in your system - that which is skimmed off the surface of the tank by the overflow in your display - is going DIRECTLY to the skimmer, so there's no chance of bypass. That, combined with a recirculating needlewheel pump on the skimmer itself, is probably the most efficient way to protein skim a reef tank.

So yeah, you might not be able to crank up the flow rate through your sump, but you should be doing OK regardless.

an411
07/31/2007, 10:04 AM
Thanks der_wille_zur_macht

1) Got a bunch of useful information

2) Made my work morning fly bye :rollface: :D