300 gal reef re-do

[pcostanzo]

Hi everyone
I have begun to overhaul my 300 gallon and will post my progress for any suggestions. I have enjoyed many threads on this forum and have seen many incredible tanks. My current tank has been up and running for about 3 years. It was a mixed reef with poor choices in it. What I hope to accomplish is this:

1. re-arrange my rockwork
2. build new light rack
3. Change plumbing configuration in and out of sump
4. Improve RO/DI storage, top off and salt water mixing
5. Change location and plumbing for chiller
6. change cabinetry that surrounds tank
7. build DIY calcium reactor
8. better choices when stocking

Here are some photos when I was installing it. It is built into my family room wall which backs up to my garage. The tank is bumped out into the garage section and the fish room is down in my basement directly under the tank.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/endsummer1stdayschool_0082.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/endsummer1stdayschool_0081.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/endsummer1stdayschool_0083.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/endsummer1stdayschool_0086.jpg

My old 90 gal in front
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/endsummer1stdayschool_0087.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/endsummer1stdayschool_0088.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/endsummer1stdayschool_0089.jpg

[pcostanzo]

Here are some old pictures of the tank
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_0842_1.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_0842.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_0852.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_0845.jpg

[pcostanzo]

Here is it now after removing the corals to a friends tank and constructing the new rockwork. The 2 pilars are live rock on PVC framework attached with zip ties and thorite.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1417.jpg

[pcostanzo]

Oh ya, here is the sump area. This is what I really need to work on.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1387.jpg

[ReefingBuddha]

Looks like you have a great starting point to work off of. With a little work you can turn a very nice tank setup into a great one. I would suggest trying to incorpotate as much water volume as possible into your sump area. Also I would add a sizable refugium if that is a possibility for you. There are a number of possibilities for large plastic storage containers that are very affordable for their size.

I really like the in wall look and the dual pillar design, is that the rock work you will be going with? If so, it might be nice to have some horizontal ledges as those can look really nice in pillar rockwork.

In the sump room it would be nice to enclose the electrical area with some simple sidings and doors to keep water out of the way.

As mentioned by jnarowe in my thread it would be best to keep the manifold above the tank so that draining tanks won't be a problem.


Good luck and have fun. Let me know if there is any advice I can help you with.

[ReefingBuddha]

oh and I would move the chiller outside. Please also post some more information about your sump room and filtration system along with what you hope to accomplish. That will help.

[TandN]

looks good so far

[erics3000]

Wow..looks good..

[pcostanzo]

Thanks guys
Tom, the electrical is all coming out and being moved. Also wont be able to move the manifold above the display. The fish room is in the basement below the tank. I have to leave enough room in the sump for my overflows to drain. I will also PM Jonathan to get his input on the manifold.

[pcostanzo]

Heres an equipment list. Some will be from my existing system and some is on order.

Tank: Tenacor 300gal 96x24x30

Sump: 55gal AGA

Skimmer: Aqua-c EV400

Main pump: Sequence Hammerhead, on order

Loop Pump: Gen-x mak5

Powerheads: 2-Tunze Streams

Mixing Pump: Mag 24, my old main pump will be used to mix and move new salt water

Chiller: Pacific Coast 1/2 hp

Controller: Medusa, to be replaced by Neptune.

Lighting: I have 4 400w Hamilton, 4 175w ballast and bulbs from another tank. Not sure how many I want to use in the new light rack. Also 320w VHO actinic with Ice cap ballast.

Water: Spectra Pure RO/DI with Liquid Level Controller for top off

Calcium Reactor: DIY

[ReefingBuddha]

Jonathan is definetly the guy to ask... he's passionate about his manifold :D

Nice collection of equipment.

What are you trying to do with this tank? SPS, LPS, another Mixed? I'm assuming with all that lighting you are trying to go the SPS direction. You said you made some poor choices before with coral selection so knowing what direction you want to go in makes a big difference, especially in equipment choice.

I would also suggest going with a bigger sump if possible, not only to handle the extra drain from the tank if the pump fails but also so there is room for all your equipment (and the equipment I'm sure you will look into in the future) plus you have the increase in water volume.

[pcostanzo]

I want to go mainly SPS especially the 2 column formation in my rock. I want to include some LPS also on the lower portions. I have to replace my maroon clowns anemone. His carpet did not make it with all the moving around. I want to get him a bubble tip. I didn't like the carpet anyway. It moved faster than some of my fish. Ha ha.. I will seriously limit my choices on softies. I had some mushrooms and star polyps that spread faster that algae. As far as the lighting, I'm not using all those MH. I was thinking 2 400w placed over the columns of rock and maybe a 175w in the middle for the trench formation.

[pcostanzo]

Oh, and the sump. I'm trying real hard to see if I can at least fit in another 55 as a fuge. Space is limited to where it i now. I run my cabinet shop out of that space also. Worried about having more salt water evaporate down there too. I really have to keep up with the rust on my machines.

[jnarowe]

Got to tell you I love the upper part of that stand. :D

Looks to me like you have room for a 200g sump or sump/fuge. I know it means mainatining more water volume but that will be helpful for stability too. You can run a reef with no sump if you want, but I don't recommend it, and that 55 is way too small to deal with. When your bio-load goes up, then you'll want a bigger skimmer....

So what I would consider is putting a couple powerheads in the tank and tearing out your entire sump area. Plumb the chiller to the outside as stated above, move the electrical up high and out of the way, drop in a 200g farm tub, put in short wall along the oil tank, and build your next level using the wall top and the back wall for mounting.

On the next level I would put your RO/DI and SW mixing tanks, and any reactors that should drain into the sump below. Gravity is good. Use it wherever you can!

A picture or drawing of how the tank is plumbed might help regarding the manifold, and by the looks of it, I think your piping may be too small. It's hard to tell the size from the pic though.

Isn't this fun?? :lol:

[erics3000]

Pcostanzo
Everyone tells me the same thing with the sump size. I went from a 55 to using my 75, (I am still in planning stage) but I would really like to use a 125 and then use my 75 for my fuge. I don,t have room for a fish room so trying to fit everything in the wall.

How long was your tank up and running? Did you have any major problems. It did look really nice. I cant wait to see how it will look in the future.

[pcostanzo]

Jonathan- good idea about the wall around the oil tank. I'll have to play around with some ideas. Once I do that I can see the room I'll have for a bigger sump. About the chiller. The only concern I have about moving it outside is when its 90 outside and its still 70 in my basement that the unit will be working harder.

Eric- The tank was running for almost 3 years. My biggest problems were plumbing and stocking. The plumbing and pumps were undersized to fight all the head pressure from the basement. My chiller was running off a closed loop with the pump in the basement. My main system pump was submerged and added heat to the water. My drains gurgled. Oh, and I siphoned and carried buckets for water changes. For stocking I want to avoid the evasive softies. I had some star polyps and mushrooms that really took over.

[jnarowe]

The only concern I have about moving it outside is when its 90 outside and its still 70 in my basement that the unit will be working harder.

This is always a tough decision, and it usually is different in various areas of the country. Seeing that you are in CT, that does make a difference as during the Winter months you won't be needing as much cooling either. Tough to say, and a ground loop would probably freeze during the Winter.

Keeping it in the basement will also probably prolong its life span too.

[cbui2]

great build, exactly how high is it from the basement to display?

[pcostanzo]

Thanks Bart. I've enjoyed your thread. Awesome build!! My sump is about 8' lower than my tank.

[pcostanzo]

OK. So I gotta do what I gotta do. I will find room to incorporate a large sump. Here is the idea I had for sump/fuge and plumbing. I'd like to keep the sump baffles to a minimum so I was just planning 1 to separate the skimmer from the sand bed and a bubble trap at the end. What do you think?

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/diagram.jpg

[erics3000]

Power Point simple sweet and efficent. I love the bigger sump.

I think your manifold will need to be higher. I am sure Johnathan will enlighten us. WHile you are at it Johnathan If I put my OM4 above the tank form my return will that work like a manifold to avoid the drain. I think I have something wrong in that plan. Sorry to Hijack Pcostanzo. You can reply on my thread if you have chance Johnathan.

[jnarowe]

Eric: OM4 does not make a manifold to help reduce the risk of a flood unless all ports go to nozzles above the surface of the tank water.

As far as the plan above, the left bubble trap will also trap detritus. If you feel you need baffles, I would only use two, the right one and the middle one, and leave room so that you can vacuum the entire area.

I would also put a ball valve on the right end of the manifold for later expansion. You never know when you might squeeze in a frag tank, etc. and one extra like shown is not enough IMO.

As far as manifold placement, it all depends on how the returns are built into the tank. We have already discussed this via PM and I think it's OK based on our discussion to have it wherever it is convenient.

[pcostanzo]

I would love to do it with no baffles and just short 1/2 baffle on each side to keep the sand separate. Do you think the bubbles will disburse over the 8 feet? I know I had to have them in my 4 foot sump.

[jnarowe]

well, don't get me started on the sand now! :lol: I would guess that just out of the 3 baffles on the left, just using the right one alone would be enough. If it doesn't work well, you can always drain it and put another one in you know. :)

[cbui2]

thanks :D awh cmon Jonathan he was just asking :cool: . you don't think the chiller return back into main display would be better then keeping the display temp stable. should this be better then sump temp stable.

[pcostanzo]

Bart- Thats the way I have it now returning to the display. Actually I just disconnected it yesterday to start re-plumbing (I was inspired after seeing your plumbing picture again.) The Chiller takes a more reduced flow to work efficiently. I can dial it back to under 1000gph and keep the 2 return lines as high as possible to maximize flow back in the display. The sump and tank should exchange enough to keep them both the same temp. I can monitor both and make any adjustments.

Jonathan- Thanks. Thats the way I will start and we'll see how many bubbles make it. Once the macro grows in, that should help. Also I will drain it through fiber cloth, that should help. I just ordered that washable stuff from Aquatic Ecosystems.

[pcostanzo]

UPS guy came

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1445.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1421.jpg

[ReefingBuddha]

congrats.. now for the fun part.

[pcostanzo]

Here's the real fun part. Since I am a cabinetmaker, I decided to make my 180gal sump from wood. I've seen this many times and years ago I built a utility sink like this. I had the wood and equipment, a friend down the street from me is a boat builder so I got some West Systems epoxy from him. I will topcoat the inside with "fish safe" epoxy I ordered from Aquatic Eco-systems. Here it is before the epoxy and fiberglass cloth goes on.

Wood for sump and new sump stand

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1422.jpg

Built and sanded. Ready for Fiberglass

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1446.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1447.jpg

I will have only 1 baffle in the front to separate the skimmer area

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1448.jpg

I left the rest open. I am going to forget about the sand bed and fill with live rock and macro

[NexDog]

Close ups of the pillars please. :)

Good luck with this. :)

[cbui2]

great updates, thats a sweet saftey speed cut you have there. what size on your sump?

[pcostanzo]

Here you go Nexdog. Sorry about the glare. The live rock is attached to pvc with zip ties. Then anything visible was covered with Thorite to blend into the rock.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1449.jpg

[pcostanzo]

Thanks Bart. The sump is 96x24x18. Oh, thats a Powermatic in the back. It saves a lot of time when you have to cut down 20-30 sheets of plywood for a project.

[cbui2]

thats a sweet size sump, could you give us some details on the sump?

[erics3000]

Man that is a sweet sump...What type of plywood did you use?

[sanosuke]

sweet setup. May I ask where did you get those valves and flex pvc from?

[pcostanzo]

Thanks guys

Sanosuke- The plumbing parts are from www.savko.com Those are the sch 80 valves and bulkheads.

Eric- Its 3/4 birch. I have a ton of this stocked in my shop for cabinets.

Bart- The sump is 96x24x18. The skimmer section is 24" before the baffle. The large 72" section will hold live rock and macro. So far I cut the sheets down to size, glued all seems with construction adhesive and screwed with 2" deck screws every 3". I reinforced the seam with 2x2 glued and screwed from the bottom and side. I filled the exterior screw holes with epoxy. Today I will start to fiberglass. I will post photos later on.

[pcostanzo]

Well, I started to fiberglass. Here is what I used.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1458.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1459.jpg

Laying down the fiberglass

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1460.jpg

Finished fiberglass

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1462.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1461.jpg

[pcostanzo]

Here is what I'll use for the top coat

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1465.jpg

[pcostanzo]

"HAZ_MAT" packaging. $50 can of paint, $41 shipping. Didn't really know that at the time I ordered.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1463.jpg

[ReefingBuddha]

Looks like great progress. Any idea when your going to get some water into that monster?

[pcostanzo]

I'm shooting for 1 more month. Curing another 100lbs of live rock for the fuge, need to build the new stand for the sump, new light rack. And the plumbing.

[pcostanzo]

While we're on the subject of plumbing, let me throw this out there for some opinions. I only have 2-1" bulkheads for my drain and 2-3/4" bulkheads for my returns. It drains about 1200 gph which was fine for my old pump. Now I will run a Hammerhead and even with the head pressure I'm sure I can return more that that. I'm more than a little scared about the idea of being under my tank and trying to re-drill a larger hole. What do you guys think about using both the 1" and 3/4" as drains then run a return along the outside and across the top?

[jnarowe]

uh...you are going to have a problem Paul. Can you post a pic of the tank overflow system again so I can check it out? I run a Hammerhead and have two 2" and one 1.5" drain on my overflow. That is more then enough, but you have to plan for clogs too. A lot of crap gets lodged in the intake screens.

At the very minimum I would install a float switch just above the water line that will cut off your return pump if the tank starts to overfill.

[cbui2]

sump looks fantastic Paul, you will have to make 4 durso :D

[pcostanzo]

Thanks Bart

Here you go Jonathan

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1467.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1466.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1472.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1469.jpg

Here is the plan

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/diagram.jpg

If I had to I can still drill it for a 2" drain if that is the best solution. Also if its too much flow I can always return some directly into the sump. The chiller is also going to be taking up about 1000gph flow, and my tank is 8 feet above the pump for added head pressure.

[ReefingBuddha]

Not sure how well they work but I found an add on for aqualogic chillers that shut down the power to the chiller if it detects no flow in the plumbing to the chiller, I think its called a flow switch. You could put one on your drain pipe and if water stops flowing through it, the return pump could be shut off. I believe they come in a 1.5" model.

here's a link
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~SearchStr~aqua%20logic~action~view~idProduct~AL1917~idCategory~FICHCA~category~Aqua_Logi c_1.5_inch_Flow_Switch__20A__230V_for_Chillers_up_to_1_1_2HP_(FS_1.5_230)_Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplie s_Chillers_Accessories~vendor~.html

Could be wrong, just a suggestion.

[jnarowe]

That's not a bad idea either Tom, although a bit more expensive.

And Paul, I return some flow to my sump as well to keep both sumps near level and to provide a prime if needed, but there is no way IMO that you can run a Hammerhead through that overfow.

It may be size-distorted in the picture, or you may have more than one of them, which would of course negate my comments. But seriously, the overflow itself looks to be too small to handle that much flow, regardless of how big a drain you squeeze into it.

OK...I think I see two in your drawing...you may be OK there. Even with 1000gph going to the chiller and 500gph going to the Ca reactor, you are still playing with about 4000gph minus whatever head pressure you will be combatting.

If you haven't already, check these links:

Head Loss Calculator (http://reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php)

Drain/Overflow Size calculator (http://reefcentral.com/calc/drain.php)

And then figure in extra for clogs...

[pcostanzo]

Yes, there are 2 of them. A total of 36" of overflow. If I put 2-2" drains that should be about 2400 gph. Chiller 1000 gph plus Ca, maybe carbon or phosban. With my head pressure, I might be OK.

[jnarowe]

plus being able to bleed off into the sump. Still tight IMO, but you won't know until you try it. Should be fun. I recommend Crater Lake or 3 Olives straight up before you light that baby off! :D

[pcostanzo]

Maybe even before I lay down underneath the thing, say my prayers and drill. I was just thinking about the bulkhead. My overflow is 4.5" wide. If I use a 2" sch80 bulkhead I'm thinking the mounting nut will be about 4" because the 1.5" ones I just got are 3.5". Gonna be tight.

[TriGa22]

Man this tank is coming along great! I love the pump its HUGE!

[pcostanzo]

Thanks TriGa22
OK Jonathan, I just ordered all the 2" flex and bulkheads.

[pcostanzo]

Another thing. There is no way I can fit a Durso Standpipe made out of 2" pipe in my overflow with the return pipe also going through the overflow. Anybody use anything different?

[pcostanzo]

Anyone use a stockman standpipe?
http://home.nc.rr.com/stockmanreef/aquasilencer.htm

[jnarowe]

At the bottom of this page you will find an interesting alternative that is supposed to work really well. I would investigate that and others on RC.

DIY Stockman Stand Pipe (http://www.randystacye.com/dursostandpipe.htm)

[pcostanzo]

Cool. Thanks Jonathan. I like that last one.

[jnarowe]

HTH...I know there are cool mods of the STockman but I can't remember where I saw them. Post in the DIY forum and ask. You should get a good response.

[erics3000]

Great info guys. I have been thinking on how to do mine. SWEETTT!!

[erics3000]

Actually that link took me back to the same link I put on my post hahahahahhahah

[jnarowe]

yours is a better link though. shows it better. What I really like on my link is the DIY tank adapter. I have even seen it used on commercial products like CPR. :)

[pcostanzo]

I'm going to give this one a shot I think. I might have to move the return that goes through the overflow.
http://home.everestkc.net/jrobertson57268/HGB/HGB_construction.html

[erics3000]

Can't wait to see how it turns out.

[pcostanzo]

at 100 posts I got to use a custom avatar. You can't even see it but it's a great whites mouth, a blue ring octopus and a manta ray on my arm. Not sure why its so small but that was the max it would allow. Am I doing something wrong?

[jnarowe]

Paul, I am not so sure about the air hose part of that design.

On your avatar, try manipulating the picture in an editor to get it to the correct size. You can also try lowing the number of colors to make the file smaller. Most picture editors will let you play with it enough to get it to the right size and under the kb allowed.

[pcostanzo]

DEMO BABY!!!

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1387.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1474.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1477.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1476.jpg

Working with new stuff is way better than tearing down the old.

[erics3000]

Kick A$$..Cool man sweet you go to do it again and learn form your 1st setup..

[pcostanzo]

Thanks man. I have some time today so I'm starting to build the stand. I'll post some more pics later.

[jnarowe]

cabinet maker? I expect the best Paul! :D Are you going to do the half wall by the oil tank?

[pcostanzo]

I'm moving a couple of machine and stealing an extra 4' to the left of the old stand. That will give me 12' to the oil tank. Then I am doing a 2nd tier that will go over the oil tank. Now that I got that up I can see how I want to continue around the oil tank. I'm thinking electrical panel maybe. Heres what I did so far.

Notched 4x4s to accept 2x10s
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1479.jpg

Framed the platform with 2x10s
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1480.jpg

Constructed the 2nd tier over oil tank
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1482.jpg

Started putting plywood down
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1484.jpg

[jnarowe]

Nice. A little different than I imagined and lots more room. what will you keep in the area that has the low shelf above it? Will you be able to fit a large sump on the floor?

[pcostanzo]

I'm putting the sump on the large part of the platform. Under the shelf will be my main pump. The shelf will be RO/DI and under that section salt water. Below the sump will be QT tanks. When I extend it over the oil tank I will use that space for Ca, and chiller. I'm going to really try and use Sketch up tonight. I'll post the plan if it's no too embarrassing.

[jnarowe]

Interesting. One thing about having the QT tanks below the sump is that when it's time to acclimate the new arrivals, you can feed the QT water from the sump through a float valve.

I have a line going from my fuge that is above my tank level, to a valve, and then adapted to JG 1/4" line to a float valve on my QT. When it's time to acclimate, I open the gate valve, and slowly remove QT water one qt. at a time. Over a period of multiple days, the new arrival becomes completely acclimated to the display system, and then I pop it in the main after lights out.

[pcostanzo]

Here it is. I don't claim to be Tom.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/sump-1.jpg

[jnarowe]

very nice. is that the shiller in the corner?

[pcostanzo]

Yes. I figure that would be the easiest way to plumb because it's going to run back into the sump.

[jnarowe]

geez...I even slur when I write! :lol:

well my concern with that placement is airflow. It is really important to give chillers as much cool air as they can get, and IMO, far more important than piping water to it . I know some is lost in transit, but when you have a bad location for the chiller, that can make it over-work and end up costing a lot to run and maintain. I would give it some serious thought. There are trade-offs of course, but you want that important piece of equipment to be in ITS ideal location.

[cbui2]

stand gave you a lot of room and less wood used. why didn't i think of that to notch :D ? placing a chiller outside my garage and maintaining fish room temp at 75deg 24hrs daily made work easy to performed IMO. great sketchup Paul, thats a lot better then me :lol: . are you going with a fuge?

[erics3000]

damm your fast ..that stand looks good..pretty decent with sketch too..MAybe you ca label your sketch

[pcostanzo]

Jonathan- I thought about that too for the chiller. Let me play around with a couple ideas

Bart- The large sump will have 6' of it for a fuge

Eric- Label? Thats the next step. Just getting this far with sketch up twisted my brain.

[jnarowe]

Just getting this far with sketch up twisted my brain.

Ain't that the truth!

[ReefingBuddha]

nice sketchup work :D .

I know its been said but that rack will give you lots of room to work with, nicely done.

Agreed about the chiller location, outside is always better.

And I would have never developed my sketchup work to the detail its at today if I could have been working on my tank instead. Good luck and looking good.

[pcostanzo]

Thanks Tom. I use a CAD program all the time to design furniture and cabinets but there are some things on sketck up that has me twisted.

Here is the finished rack. It is 12' along the back wall
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1486.jpg

Here is the section over the oil tank. It is 6.5' over the rack and 8' over the oil tank.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1487.jpg

The finished sump/fuge.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1488.jpg

[jnarowe]

really nice Paul.

[erics3000]

That is sweet. About how much do you think you have into the sump minus the plywood?

[pcostanzo]

Under $200. Would have been the same as a buying a Rubbermaid tub, but I like the dimensions better with this. I always liked the plywood tanks I've seen people build and wanted to try it. Gotta love that DIY stuff.

[ReefingBuddha]

nicely done man, and having exactly the dimensions you want on that sump must be great. Your going to have lots of room to play with in there.

I wish I had time to do more DIY stuff but I haven't had the luxury yet. Looking forward to making some stuff down the road.

Looking good, keep cranking it out.

[TandN]

looks awesome. BUT i would be very careful with that section over the oil tank only because if theres a leak or a repair need on it and you have tanks on the shelves its gonna be a head ache

[erics3000]

I really like the way the sump is made to your specs. Sweet dude... real sweet :bum:

[cbui2]

very clean and working pretty fast Paul. what's going in the fuge? keep up the good work

[pcostanzo]

Thanks guys

Tanya- the section over the oil tank is only going to be Ca reactor, Kalk, Chiller... Nothing major to move if I have to.

Eric- Thanks for the post on my DIY Ca reactor thread. No need to be jealous about taking time off from work. I broke my ribs 3 weeks ago and was stuck home so I started planning. I didn't schedule any customers projects so I could have time to heal. When I barely was feeling better I was tired of sitting around so I decided to start building. Next week will be different.

Bart- I'm planning live rock and various macros. I have to admit I looked through your entire thread again last night. I got in my final shipment of flex PVC, about 100', and just had to check out your plumbing again. I am also jealous of the 4' depth of your tank. I was very close a few days ago to just say "DO IT" and use the 300 as a sump. Then I came beck to reality.

[erics3000]

Damm Broke rib ouch..

It is cool that your are going full speed now that you have the time.

Reality sucks. Hey look at it this way you can add custom tank building to your site and have some cools pics for it..

[pcostanzo]

I actually have a picture of my tank under "built ins" on my website. I handed out my cards to local LFS owners in case someone is looking for cabinetry for their tank.
www.paulcostanzocabinetmaker.com

[cbui2]

thanks Paul, excessive viewing of my thread will cause brain damaged :confused: . yes i loved the 4' depth but wish i had done external overflows, didn't know that much then. there are so many things i could have done to make my system so much better, not that its bad now :D . seems to me you will have some fun with plumbing :) 100' spa flex

i could used some cabinetry work next to my fireplace :D we can trade off on labor with plumbing

[jnarowe]

love the flex PVC...good stuff! :)

[pcostanzo]

Well I painted the stand today. That should be it.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1492.jpg

I also was brave and drilled the new drains. I have been dreading this. It wasn't too bad except the gallon of putrid dead snail water that drained on me when I took the old bulkheads out. The new 2" bulkheads are massive. Talk about a close fit.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1494.jpg

My cramped working area under the tank.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1496.jpg

[jnarowe]

looking good. those are good bulkheads too. I actually drilled my holes small and filed them to the exact dimension needed...talk about a PITA! :rolleyes:

[pcostanzo]

Thanks again Jonathan for steering me towards the 2" drains. I would have hated to do all this work and not have it keep up with the pump.

[jnarowe]

Well I hope you can squeeze the stand pipe in there and get enough flow. It will take some adjusting I think, but once it is right, you and your reef will be happier. WIth the 2" drains, it gives you more flexibility in how you tune your system, what kinds of strainers you can use, etc. plus of course, being able to keep up with the return pump.

As I may have already stated, I have two sumps, and inbound and an outbound, primarily due to the cunstruction of my catwalk, and the desire to bleed off bubbles before the return pump. I have 2 x 1.5" lines w/vales between the sumps, and a T w/valve just after the return pump. This allows me to keep the water levels in the sumps equalized, and also provides a quick prime if needed.

Because I use the 2" flex PVC from my drains, it's possible to isolate and clean or remove an entire sump, yet keep the system running on just one, and I only allow the water level at 1/2 of sump volume so I can easily absorb any water from an electrical outage or equipment failure.

[cbui2]

looking good, what type of paint was used for stand :thumbsup: ?

[jnarowe]

When I re-read my posts, I just can't get over the spelling and grammatical errors... :rolleyes:

[pcostanzo]

iT waz just a xteerior laytex paynt i had. Oh man, I've been reading Jonathans posts too long.

[jnarowe]

hehehe...at least I have a normal sized avatar! :p

[20 20]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10576725#post10576725 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
hehehe...at least I have a normal sized avatar! :p

Oh...



Oh, that's just too easy...




No...


Nope. I can't. I just can't.:p

[jnarowe]

You're from PA, you can do it man! :lol:

[cbui2]

ok i done heard enough jokes, please keep the topic going? how am i supposed to learn anything with these nonsense.

[20 20]

Actually, I just live in PA, I'm from Wisconsin. You know us friendly midwesterners, we just can't partake in that type of non-family-friendly humor. As much as I might want to...:p

And Bart, looking at that 600 gallon space station you've set up, don't you think you've learned enough yet!?:lol:

j/k, j/k, sorry about the thread de-rail, pcostanzo, sometimes I just can't help myself. Back to the original topic...:)

[cbui2]

space station :D IMO the easy part is over. now the hardest part is keeping everything alive and water parameter stable. a little humor is ok :lol:

[pcostanzo]

Just wanted to post todays progress. I managed to get the sump in and plumbed. I constructed the manifold. Ran my 2-2" drain lines and 2-1" return lines.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1497.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1498.jpg

Also got some live rock for the fuge a couple days ago. Thats curing.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1499.jpg

I made some DIY rock with the crumbled pieces of rock at the bottom of the shipping box. I just mixed them up with some left over Thorite I had from my aquascaping. They are soaking to get the PH down.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1502.jpg

[ReefingBuddha]

looking good and making great progress fast.

[jnarowe]

That really is looking good Paul, and it's nice to get the extra water volume by using a square sump. The home-made rock really looks nice too.

I would put a valve on the end of the manifold. That way should you need to extend it, you can do so without shutting the system down. I just used a schedule 80 BV.

Also, what do you think about mounting the pump differently so you can lose the 90 elbow on the output? And I would put valves like the ones you used on the manifold before and after the pump, so that you can close them and take the pump offline for cleaning and repairs. It appears from the pictures that there's no way to close off the flow from the sump to remove the pump. Am I seeing that correctly, or have I missed something?

[pcostanzo]

Thanks guys. You're right Jonathan. I didn't think of putting a valve there so I dont have to drain the sump to service the pump. I will do that.

[jnarowe]

OK. The Sequence pump can be mounted on its side as well to lose the elbow, or you can rotate the pump body on the motor so the output is facing out towards your manifold. That will decrease the head pressure from the first elbow, especially since it is so close to the output. In fact that might be so constrictive that the threads would leak.

[pcostanzo]

I was looking at rotating the pump. I did that with my Gen-x. I just put in what will hope to be my final order of plumbing parts. Since I was getting a ball valve for that pump I ended up getting 3 more for the manifold. Might as well put them on now. Man, the fittings and pipe cost more that my 1st tank.

[ReefingBuddha]

My weekly fish food costs more then my first tank :D

[pcostanzo]

That works. I should be able to do a gentle curve into the manifold once the pump is back in position.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1504.jpg

[jnarowe]

I guess nagging works? :lol: That will be much better Paul. I love those pumps!

[cbui2]

Paul you're too fast for me with great progress :thumbsup: . will you be able to moved the manifold to your left so it will line up at the beginning :D .

[pcostanzo]

Actually I am adding on 3 more valves to the left. The pump isn't being mounted there. It's going back and to the right. Hopefully have the sump running this week.

[pcostanzo]

Today I worked on the hybrid standpipe. The parts for a 2" drain are:
length of 2" PVC
2" end cap
2" to 3" adapter
2" male adapter. This is what threads into my bulkhead.

parts
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1505.jpg

1/2" holes are drilled around the pipe.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1506.jpg

The 2" to 3" adapter has to be ground down so it slips over the pipe.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1507.jpg

A hole is drilled in the cap and a length of airline is put in
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1509.jpg

The adapter slips over the pipe
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1508.jpg

Finished
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1510.jpg

Installed
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1512.jpg

The original post is further back in my thread. The only thing I changed was using the 2" to 3" adapter rather than the different adapter and coupler in the original design. Not ready to try it yet. I'll let you know how they work.

[customclimates]

looks great!

[jnarowe]

that is very interesting. I didn't realize that it had a cup shape like that. Do youthink that will catch stuff and clog?

[pcostanzo]

I don't know. I guess at the beginning I'm going to have to watch it. After I moved my return lines over to the side of the overflow, I will have room for a Durso if this doesn't work.

[ReefingBuddha]

nice standpipes... should these now be named "Costanzo standpipes"?

[jnarowe]

Well, They do look great and I don't think there would be any negative impact if you strapped on mesh over the top.

[erics3000]

If you like them after a little testing I will do the same.. Hopefully they are super quiet..

[pcostanzo]

I need some advise from those of you who use Kalkwasser as ATO. I've only used a calcium reactor and never added kalk. My PH of my well water running through RO/DI is around 8.2 so I dont need the kalk to raise PH. Does it contribute to the calcium and alk level that much if you're still using a Ca reactor?

[jnarowe]

Paul, this is more complicated than you think or most of us even know. First and foremost, it does not matter what the pH is of your well water. Based on discussions with Randy, there is no correlation between two different pH levels being added together. So if you have 100g of pH 7.0 and combine it with 100g of pH 8.0, you will not end up with 200g of pH 7.5. It just doesn't work that way, but I can't give you the scientific reasons why that is.

Once water has gone through the RO/DI process, it should essentially be pH nuetral anyway. Then you mix it with salt, which typically raises the pH, but it is not a consistant result. It all depends how much you aerate it, how long you age it, what the ambient conditions are etc.

The simple reason why reef keepers use kalk for top-off, like I do, is to keep the tank pH up when dosing CO2 into our Ca reactors. The CO2 tends to lower tank pH and as demand for Ca grows, we can run into low pH issues. Using the kalk keeps the pH up, and there are various ways to control it.

I use multiple controls for my top-off. I use a LiterMeter III for top-off and have it set to a little more than what my tank's needs are. I have a float switch for water level control, so it won't go on unless the water level lowers due to evaporation. Then I use tank pH to control it so if the pH get above 8.35, power is cut to the LiterMeter.

You also must be very careful about how your kalk is stirred. The liquid in the reactor should remain clear. I have a Barr stirrer and so I also have that set on a timer to stir twice/day, and during that time and for the following hour, I also cut the power to the LiterMeter. That way I am NEVER dosing kalk fines into the tank. That can cause serious problems!

[pcostanzo]

Thanks Jonathan. So I am currently dosing with a Spectrapure Liquid Level controller. It opens the flow when the pressure switch is activated by a drop in the sump. If that is hooked up to my controller to only dose at night and my stirrer only stirs in the day thats cool. Also I should set my controllers PH to shut off the dose if PH is too high. Does that sound right?

[jnarowe]

Not quite. I think you may find that you need to bring up the pH even during the daytime. It all depends on how your system is set up, and what the demand is for calcium and alkalinity. My Ca reactor goes 24/7 and is also controlled by an internal pH probe as well as the tank pH probe, so if the tank pH drops below 8.15, my CO2 shuts down and of course, the CO2 goes on and off to maintain my target reactor pH.

It's a balancing act, but playing around with it will ultimately get you the results you need. The question is, can the power be cut to the LLC and not have it allow water to flow? Seems like those switches are normally on or normally off and probably opposite, so you may have some issue with cutting the power to it. I don't know, as I don't have one, but be prepared to observe it when you pull the plug. If it's in the open flow position when the elctricity is cut, will it remain open and over-dose?

Might want to ask Scott at SpectraPure about that.

[pcostanzo]

It does shut the flow when the power is cut so you don't have a flood. I doubled checked in the manual. So I guess its going to be a matter of programming the controller not to dose withing an hour or so of when I have the stirrer programed to mix.

[jnarowe]

depends on the kind of stirrer. What kind is it?

[pcostanzo]

Don't have one. I'm going to DIY one. Probably with a pump rather than a stirrer, like the GEO.

[jnarowe]

OK, so if you use a pump, you really do have to be careful about not dosing any time when and after the pump operates. I would suggest you look at other designs too. The Deltec has the best design for constant stirring without putting the kalk into suspension, butI don't like the fact that it has air at the top. I got one from Barr that is a lab style magnetic stirrer. It's very nice and has no air pocket, but can really get the kalk up into the water column. That's what prompted me to discuss this with you. Pump models are much worse in this respect.

[pcostanzo]

I saw that on the Deltec. I thought that was odd too. I have seen the Barrs on their website. Do the pump models stir it up to much and not let it settle?

[LEPRECAUN]

Hi,


I have a question for you. I'm thinking about using the hammerhead on my system too, How loud is the pump? I was concerned about the noise since it would be located under our bedroom.


Thanks for your help,


Ken

[jnarowe]

I have never used a pump stirrer so I can't tell you from personal experience, but it just seems to not be the best design IMO. I know there are issues with the pumps failing because of the abrasive nature of the kalk powder.

Based on what I have learned, I unfortunately have to say that for the health of your system, the Deltec seems to be a better design from a stirring aspect. I have seen Steve Weast's a couple times now, and it is constantly stirring but the water is crystal clear. I mentioned the air exposure and he kind of shrugged that off as a "so what"...and since it is a vertical stir bar, you cannot float anything on top of the water. But no need for timer control is a big plus, since you can run it 24/7 and dose 24/7 without a conflict. That's how I see it anyway. :)

Ken, Hammerheads are very quiet. I can't even hear mine in my tank room. You may see more noise from the water flow than the pump itself.

[pcostanzo]

I see the reason for air pocket. That motor is on the top with the rod coming through. Maybe you cant pressurize the system because of that seal. So the Deltec constantly stirs slowly as opposed to the Barr which ramps up to 1000 rpm a few times a day.

[jnarowe]

that's about right. On the Barr, you can adjust the speed down, but kalk gets sticky, so it doesn't do well on low speeds because it can't break the kalk free.

[erics3000]

A lot of good info..

[LEPRECAUN]

[i]<a href=showthread.php?
Ken, Hammerheads are very quiet. I can't even hear mine in my tank room. You may see more noise from the water flow than the pump itself. [/B]



Thats great to hear!!! I'm working on a 480 gallon tank and wanted to use it for the closed loop system> Thanks for your help:rollface:



Ken

[jnarowe]

That's a strange post...

[20 20]

Quotes gone bad...:p

[pcostanzo]

Finishing up my plumbing and electrical today. I've been filling the sump for the last 3 days. Almost there. Hopefully get to fire this baby up by the end of the day and post some pics. Now I have to try and remove some scratches from acrylic. I hate this part.

[pcostanzo]

Big day today. I finally got to test out the new sump and plumbing. So far so good everything is working good. Those 2" drain are more than enough to handle the hammerheads return.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1525.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1526.jpg

I'm glad I did the big sump. Plenty of room for the live rock and macro.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1524.jpg

RO/DI storage, Salt water mixing and storage. I plumbed the RO/DI to empy into the salt water when I turn a valve. I plumbed my old mag24 in the salt water tank for mixing and pumping to the sump. The manifold has room for carbon, phos, Ca and new skimmer. The 2 switches next to the contoller switch one pump to empty the sump during WC and the other for the pump in the salt water to fill the sump.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1527.jpg

Closed loop, drains and returns
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1528.jpg

The new standpipes work flawlessly. Absolutely silent. I was so used to the gurgle my dursos made that this is a nice change.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1529.jpg

Next I have to work on the light rack

[jnarowe]

super update Paul, and now with the 2" drains, you don't have to worry about a failure do to a clog etc.

Good feedback on the stand pipes. You have made great progress and I am really glad you ripped out yhe old stand and built in this new "L" shaped one. It gives you a lot more flexibility and room to grow. It seems to me that your RO/DI and SW mixing are just about identical to mine, but I am concerned that you may not have enough capacity. I built mine around 96g bins and will be upgrading to 200g bins so I can have more water on hand. I just find that I am operating to close to the edge when it comes to emergency situations.

[erics3000]

Man looks good. I am glad the standpipes work good. What is that pipe at the end of your returns in your sump? Does it help quiet the flow?

I was just drawing up my water change system and was going to use 1 pump with 4 valves. I like how you did the 2 pumps with the switches. What kind of pumps did you use?

[jnarowe]

I designed mine with one Quiet One pump, a timer, and 4 valves. It's easy to do especially when you have the purified water tank elevated so that you can gravity feed the SW mixing tank.

[erics3000]

thats probaly what i will do. Since i am still a newbie i dont have a lot of spare or extra parts. Thanks Johnathan.

Sorry for the hitchhike Paul. Mann your fish room is sweet...Great Job..It is a ll coming together,...........

[jnarowe]

Eric, you can always PM me for help with the design. I built mine a lot like Weatherson's (http://www.weatherson.com/equipment.htm). I even used his water level controller but am now switching to electronic float switches and a solenoid valve for the source flow.

[erics3000]

Funny Johnathan.. I actually printed out his design a few months back and was looking at it today. I just have autotopoff floats for the sump. I was already planning on asking you a bunch of things down the road. I just need to get some help to lift my tank so I can get moving. Thanks for the offer. I will definetly take you up on it..

[tgfrench]

Not to pour sand in your drink, but as I read this thread and saw the pic of the stockman pipes and your construction. I noticed that you placed the pipe reducer upside down on the pipe. I'm glad its working but its just not as designed. Nice build thread and good luck.

[jnarowe]

tgfrench: He didn't build a stockman aqua silencer. He built a Hofer Gurgle Buster (http://home.everestkc.net/jrobertson57268/HGB/HGB_construction.html). Different design.

Eric, I didn't follow Weatherson's design exactly either. I used some of his ideas and made some changes to suit my needs. What I built would be very good for your size system. I use the same pump to stir the new SW as I do to drain the sumps. Just flip the valves and turn on the pump.

And I have the timer stir the new SW for 15 minutes 4x/day, and always have an air stone going in it. I run 200' of 1/4 supply line coiled in the heated SW tank, to help bring the incoming water temp. up a bit.

[pcostanzo]

Thanks guys.
Jonathan-I though about the size. If it gets to a point where its not enough water I have the room on top to switch out to a larger tank.
Eric- that pipe at the end of the return is just a "Y" fitting. one end in the water and the top open to let in air. Also my water change is with the 2 pumps because I had them from taking down my old system so I figured I might as well use them. They are a mag24 and mag 18. The RO/DI on the top is a plus. I just open a valve and let it fill the bottom tank. Then I can close one valve and open another to mix and reverse that to pump into the sump.
tgfrench-jnarowe is right. Its not a Stockman. Take a look at the link in his post.

[tgfrench]

i stand corrected. Still a good thread and a nice setup.

[jnarowe]

and I wonder if the Hofer stand pipe will clog, as I discussed earlier, but time will tell. It could always be fitted with a sponge or sock to keep debris out if it becomes a problem.

[pcostanzo]

I'm going to keep an eye on it for awhile.

[pcostanzo]

I made my light rack today. Simple aluminum that hold 3-400watt Hamilton pendants and 2 VHO actinics. All the ballasts are in the fish room to save heat in the hood. I have a Honeywell fan across the lights and a Nutone exhaust fan to vent the hood area.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1530.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1533.jpg

This was the 1st time the MH have been on in a month. Messing with the system, having the skimmer off line really did a number on my water clarity. I hooked up my old skimmer till I get a new one and ran some carbon. Hopefully it will clear a little.

[jnarowe]

Do you think enough light from the tubes is going into the tank? Can you pull it aside to get into the tank?

[pcostanzo]

Its a weird angle but its actually centered over the tank. I can move them back about 6-8" when I need to.

[jnarowe]

Yeah I figured it was the picture. Looks like you have nice surface agitation too.

[pcostanzo]

Only thing I did today was keep figuring out my skimmer options.
Jonathan, I PM you my specs. Thanks for the input on "going square"

[jnarowe]

so many ways to do it...I have seen square, wooden, Rubbermaid, becket, NW, airstone, etc. and all have their advantages. Perhaps using any skills you already have would be a good place to start. being a cabinet maker puts you in a different class than the average DIYer!

[pcostanzo]

The good thing about working with acrylic is using the same tools in my shop. I can just switch blades and cut acylic, joint the edges, route, bore holes etc...

[jnarowe]

I tell you what, if you have a jointer you wil be set. I did mine without one and it shows. You can also make acrylic scrapers on the jointer that work much better than the ones sold in the hobby. :)

[pcostanzo]

Those of you with acrylic tanks, do you have luck with removing scratches on the inside? Even when I get down to the 12000 grit I still see the fine scratches. Is that normal or am I missing something?

[jnarowe]

Paul,

I hand polished my tank and it was tough...you should be using a polisher with a very fine liquid abrasive for your final run. I used stuff from Micro Surface (https://www.micro-surface.com/default.cfm?page_id=1). They have an extensive selection of aircraft grade kits for acrylic as well as individual items.

I used Micro Gloss and the Anti-Static for my last two runs, applied with an angle grinder and first a buffer pad, and then a sponge pad. I also slowed the grinder down with a reostat.

Once the water is in the tank, you can still remove scratches with a magnet and various sandpapers like the Mighty Magnet Scratch Removal Kit (http://www.mightymagnets.com/scratchk.htm). This simply consists of a magnet cleaner with extremely fine grade sandpaper glued to algae pads. It's a little over-priced, but I bought one and it works well. You may be able to DIY them once you see how they are made.

[pcostanzo]

Yes, I have a similar kit. After I finish with the finest grit, I still see very fine scratches. You can tell the difference between an area that has been repaired and one that hasn't. Do those very fine scratches ever get worked out or is that just the way it looks?

[sivert55]

pcostanzo, you have to follow up with a buffing compound. it's tough to do in a tank filled with water, but it removes small amounts of the surface material until you get down past the scratches. Looks better than new. Just use a hand buffer and Novus 3 followed by Novus 2.

[pcostanzo]

The Novus worked good for me on the outside. I'll keep plugging away at the inside with the finer grits. I hope this isn't a sign to upgrade to a 600 gal starphire.:D

[ReefingBuddha]

I think it is :D

[sivert55]

I've seen a 3 sided box used in the past that is similar in use to a koffer dam. You put in inside the tank over the scratch, then pump the water out of the space. the water pressure from outside the box created a pretty good seal and gives you room to work on the scratch without emptying the whole tank. The limitation there is the hight of the tank. If it's really tall or the scratch is towards the very bottom of the pane, your workspace would be very long and skinny.

[pcostanzo]

My new skimmer. Assembly required.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1548.jpg

This is going to be a big boy. Its based on Barr Aquatics design for their "Ultra Skimmer" to be released this month, thanks Zeph for the idea. Its a dual beckett 48" high with an 8" main body and 2-2.5" injector tubes. It's going to be powered by a Sequence Reeflo Marlin.

[pcostanzo]

Here are the plans for the skimmer. I was first thinking of a needlewheel type but after talking to Jonathan and Sherman I started considering other options.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/49e78bb1.jpg

[jnarowe]

make the cup bigger dammit, or else it will compress the foam head!! :D

I really like my skimmer, but when space is at a premium, like for under tank installs, becketts are hard to beat. There's so many ways to get good skimming though.

I wish you could see mine in person! Did you see the videos I posted of it?

[pcostanzo]

Yes, I saw the video, pretty cool. Hard to beat the "TURD" shot, that is one of my all times favorites along with Barts plumbing shot.

At first I was thinking of running the skimmer off the manifold with the Hammerhead. If I did a smaller single beckett I probably could have done it. This one with the duel beckett and an 8" chamber, the Marlin is going to be way better. Its rated for 2050 gph and 37 feet max head.

Jonathan- the tube I have is 30". I need 24" for the body. I can only spare 6" for the cup. How about if I have the neck not run so far up the cup maybe 2" instead of 4"? The neck length will still be the same.

[jnarowe]

Yeah Bart's plumbing shots are the BOMB aren't they!!

I am not sure shortening up the riser is a good idea. In theory, if you are using a cup draining to a bucket, that might be OK, but I think you need more area for the foam to fall off the head.

You might be able to pull a couple inches out of your base box as well. What about cup width?

I have a modded Octo in my QT/Grow-out tank with a similar cup:

http://home.wavecable.com/~jrowe/octo%20nog%20081307.jpg

And from extensive experience, I know that once the cup is filled with foam, the skimming slows down because there is tension developed in the skimmer cup. And I am using a drain line to a bucket...So what I can do is run it with the lid off like you see in the picture. The downside to this is that the foam will dry so I have to clean the neck every day.

[pcostanzo]

The cup is 8" wide

[jnarowe]

Based on the drawing, making it wider would give you more fall off area and perhaps allow it to skim better. I also cut my riser top at an angle like Weatherson did to allow the foam to flow off more easily to limit downward pressure on the foam head:

http://home.wavecable.com/~jrowe/skimme2.jpg

This shot is from when I first fired up the skimmer at less than 5 minutes, and it' sthe only good shot i have ever had of the riser in action.

And even with the giant cup I built, with the lid off, you can ee the foam pouring out of it:

http://home.wavecable.com/~jrowe/skimmate4.jpg

I don't believe anyone when they say the the typical collection cup is fine because "that's the way they are made"...I have posted now two pictures of foam heads rising well above the cup capacity and I don't believe there is any way someone can prove that the low lid design doesn't limit foam production. Just some thoughts for you to consider since you are building your own and can make changes in design to get better skimming. :D

[pcostanzo]

Today was one of those days. I was looking at the tank and saw the water dropping. I ran downstairs and the line to my skimmer came undone and was pumping water up in the air and onto the floor. :mad2: It figures that I am replacing this next week once I finish the new one.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/flood4.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/flood3.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/flood2.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/flood1.jpg

Well the good thing is that I had to drain part of the sump anyway to drill the new bulkhead for the skimmer pump. I just wasn't going to drain it on the floor.

[jnarowe]

Holy Smokes! Good thing it didn't get on any equipment. I have had a few of those days myself.

[samson78945]

great looking build! love the equipment room

[pcostanzo]

Thanks Samson78945, welcome aboard.

[erics3000]

Whew I just got caught back up on your progress. I like the skimmer. Looking good.

Man that is a lot of water. Your scaring me about having all that water in my house. I think I am going to make sure all my pc's in my office are off the floor.

Man your tank looked sweet when you took it down. I cant wait too see this time around..

[pcostanzo]

Thanks Eric. You must be pumped to have the tank on the stand and the house cleaned up.

[erics3000]

Yeah I am finally getting there. I had to make the wife happy and setup a spare bedroom for our new commer. I got this 12mm laminate floor with beveled edges that I am also going to use in the entire house. When done it should look sweet. Since I am stuck away i will work on that little project for you.

DId you build a kalk reactor yet or just working on the skimmer? Whats next for your plans?

[pcostanzo]

Skimmer 1st, then my next order of acrylic will be enough to cover kalk, Ca, carbon and phos reactors. That damn acrylic tube is so expensive for the good cell cast 1/4" stuff.

[jnarowe]

Why don't you save some money and footprint and build a multi-media-reactor like mine?

http://home.wavecable.com/~jrowe/sump%20reactor%20021207.jpg

[erics3000]

I guess if your gona go square, why not make it a square affair. Johnathan what do you use for KALK? Do you have any other pics of your reactor. I will check your site but don't think you had any of the build.

[jnarowe]

I ended up buying a Barr stirrer just because I didn't have the time to build it myself, and it is made exactly the way I would have done it, but with a better hatch.

You can see more pics of the multi-media reactor and the kalk stirrer on my Equipment Page (http://home.wavecable.com/~jrowe/equipment.htm) as well as some shots of the reactor in progress. I am open to PMs regarding how the reactor was built and how it runs. I envision smaller versions of this reactor taking the place of a sump/ floss/ carbon, CA, and GFO for under-tank installations. It is a very marketable product.

HTH.

[pcostanzo]

I like the Barr stirrer also. Thats how I came across their skimmer that I'm duplicating. I'm going to be using that design also. They use a Hanna magnetic stirrer which I was going to get at Aquatic-eco for $80. I just have to get the tube since I have nylon bolts, o-rings and flat stock left over.

Jonathan- I will PM you about the multi-media reactor after I finish the skimmer. That might be pretty cool rather than 4 separate chambers.

[jnarowe]

Just a couple of issues to point out with stirrers:

1. Can't stand the pump kind. This is a maintanance issue as well as an overdosing issue.

2. Magnetic bar Stirrers are good and typically do not have an air gap, but they can only take so much kalk powder or they will get sticky/mushy, and the bar won't turn. I had issues with mine like that, and also OD issues due to how much it clouds the chamber. I have had to set mine to go on twice/day, and turn off the top-off during and for the following hour after the stir.

3. The Deltec stirrer is very nice in that it is a rod based stirrer. It stirs slowly and consistently, and should not OD the tank because of that. So, you are able to run top-off water continuously. The downside is the air gap at the top. As I get more experience with stirrers, I am more in favor of the Deltec design. I am NOT a DeltecBot, but I have seen them in use and inspected the way that they run. I feel that this is probably the best design, even with the air gap.

[pcostanzo]

I finished my skimmer today. Thought I'd post a buch of pics I took along the way.

I started by cutting all my tubes down to size
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1558.jpg

Tubes are cut down and flat pieces are cut out
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1563.jpg

I laid out all cuts, rabbits and holes
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1560.jpg

[pcostanzo]

The circles and holes were all cut by using my drill press like a milling machine. I put a 1/4" cutter in the drill press, drilled a small hole in the center of the acrylic so it could pivot, nailed it to a board and rotated it into the cutter.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1564.jpg

The flat pieces were all edge jointed
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1559.jpg

Starting to glue up the base
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1566.jpg

Edges were rounded over slightly
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1568.jpg

This is the interior baffle that will direct the bubbles up the center chamber into the main chamber
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1569.jpg

Glueing the baffle in place
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1570.jpg

Baffle with center tube installed
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1571.jpg

Attaching the injector tubes with a support that I incorporated into the main body flange

[pcostanzo]

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1573.jpg
The finished beckett housings and cup

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1565.jpg

Finished

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1577.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1583.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1580.jpg

[erics3000]

WOWWW.. :thumbsup: :eek1:


your carpentry skills and tools make that thing look awsome. Excellent job. That thing is bad a$%^&^.

I think I am going to try and finds a decent drill press. Beside a drill press and router anything else you think would help. Beside being a craftsman like your self.

[erics3000]

How tall is that bad boy?

[pcostanzo]

A dremel is handy for getting into spots. Like the PVC fittings the becketts go into were ground out with the dremel. A jointer is handy for cleaning up the edges of flat acrylic to be glued. A sled for the table saw so you can spin the cylinders to cut them. You can also use a circle cutting jig for the router instead of the drill press. Jasper makes a good one.

The size is just over 4' tall. The body is 8" diameter the injection tubes are 2.5" and the box is 12x14x12. Input is 1" pvc and outflow is 2" pvc.

I have to check but I think I have to wait a couple of days before I can put water in it. I'm new at this acrylic stuff. This is actually the first thing I've built out of it.

[erics3000]

It looks like art

[jnarowe]

beautiful work. the jointer is what makes it all come together, and the next time I do an acrylic project, I am going to get one. :D

[sherm71tank]

Glad you went with the dual injectors.

[jnarowe]

Are you following me?

[pcostanzo]

Thanks guys. I'll post some pics by the end of the weekend when its hooked up.

[pcostanzo]

I water tested today and after fixing a small leak I hooked it up. Its incredible how fine the bubbles are and how they fill the chamber compared to my old skimmer.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1584.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1586.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1588.jpg

Here is the pump. A Sequence Marlin.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1589.jpg

[jnarowe]

Beautiful job Paul. That skimmer is sweet. Is the Marlin modded with a NW? That would be cool if you could feed it with a NW.

What are you doing about auto-shut off? Like for an over-skimming event? Do you have a float switch in the collection bucket?

What are you going to do about ventillation for your pumps? They seem to be in a fairly confined space. Are you going to mount a fan/blower to keep them cool?

Live that manifold dude! Just need to get busy with the Brother P-Touch and label it all for tank sitters! :lol:

[sherm71tank]

Can I get some closer shots of the beckett riser tubes? They don't look to be filled with bubbles the right way to me. More pics!

[jnarowe]

Paul, watch out for Sherman...he really knows skimmers and becketts in particular. And if yours is making enough noise that you can hear it inside, Sherman has a great design for a muffler.

The head looks good though, don't you think Sherman?

[sherm71tank]

It is a beauty of a skimmer! Head looks nice as well. IME with becketts that have large "down draft" tubes they fill completely with bubbles and look very turbulant. They don't have the "stream" of bubbles down the center of the tube that yours at least appear to have.

[pcostanzo]

You're right. I wasn't sure if thats because it was breaking in or not but the down tubes are not filling with water. If I start to close the output valve the water level goes into the cup. Any ideas?

[sherm71tank]

Can you try running just one of them?

[pcostanzo]

Here are some close ups. The water level in the mixing box stays the same if I open or close the output valve just the height of the water column changes. Also doesn't make a difference if I reduce the pump volume. No easy way for me to shut down one of the becketts. Maybe I can plug up the hole on one and try it. The pump should put out enough volume for 2. It was actually recommended on Barrs website for this size skimmer.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1591.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1593.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1592.jpg

[jnarowe]

based on the picture of the foam in the riser, I am not sure anything needs to be corrected yet. maybe give it some time?

[erics3000]

Wicked..

[jnarowe]

hey paul, what kind of thumb screws are you using? Are they PVC?

[pcostanzo]

They are nylon. Mcmasters Part Number: 94323A322

[pcostanzo]

I tried something this morning. I noticed when I first turn on the pump air pressure forces the water thats in the central column up even before water fills it. I remember Zeph talking about an air lock in the injector tubes. I loosened the injector chamber to release the air and the tube instantly filled with foam. I tightened it back up and the foam continued.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1597.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1596.jpg

I had to cut the air back as soon as I did this. It was sucking way more air than before and the bubbles were getting too big.

[ReefingBuddha]

Wow... great job... very nicely done, congrats!

[steve the plumb]

very nice work.To bad I don't have the tools or the skills to do this.If I had a drawing then maybe I would think of attempting something like this but I would be to afraid that I would screw it up.You have done such a clean job.I am thinking you could make skimmers for people as a side job.Its not a bad way to make extra money and its something that you like to do.The only problem may be time.Seems no one has enough of that.

[jnarowe]

Ahhh...there it is. Sherman will be proud! :D

I used to use nylon but I had problems with them breaking so I switched to SS screws and use a drill to run them in and out.

[sherm71tank]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10776032#post10776032 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pcostanzo
I tried something this morning. I noticed when I first turn on the pump air pressure forces the water thats in the central column up even before water fills it. I remember Zeph talking about an air lock in the injector tubes. I loosened the injector chamber to release the air and the tube instantly filled with foam. I tightened it back up and the foam continued.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1597.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1596.jpg

I had to cut the air back as soon as I did this. It was sucking way more air than before and the bubbles were getting too big.

There's the money shot! I wonder if you can turn the air valves off when you are first turning it on?

Here's where I'll part with the pack on tuning your beckett so you can take it or leave it. I run my DIY beckett with 3/8" fittings and airline wide open. It is called "foam fractionation " right? Maybe give it try sometime and see what you think. Just remember you will have to lower the water level considerably or it will volcano on you. Good luck!

[jnarowe]

And of all the sweet skimmers Sherman has had, nothing beats that beckett. How much air is it pulling again?

[pcostanzo]

Thanks guys. 1st day and its starting to form a head. Cant wait to pull out some poop.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1605.jpg

[sherm71tank]

I have to guess because when I put the meter on it restricts the flow. With the meter on it's right at 100 SCFH without I think 120 SCFH. Using a Rio Hyperflow 32 pump on it (80 watts).

Also I have a suggestion. Put another valve for shutting the air down after your adjustment valve. This way you don't have to readjust the skimmer if you need to turn the air down or off for feeding certain foods, water changes, whatever. Makes your life easier!

[pcostanzo]

I got my first skimmate this morning.

After reading the last couple of posts in Thirschman thread about ich I wanted to start up a discussion of different methods all of you use to quarantine incoming, not sick, fish. Do you take preventative measures or wait till you see something? I have used copper and Hypo in the past. Both have been successful. The last fish I treated actually developed ich, a hippo tang, that didn't respond at all to copper. I raised the dose to .35 and still nothing. I removed the copper from the tank and did hypo at 1.009. After the first week it was gone. Kept him there for 6 weeks. Lots of people have so many different methods. Some dip, some don't, some just quarantine without anything and wait to see if the fish is sick, some treat right away even if no symptoms. Lets hear what you guys do.

[jnarowe]

I QT but have never chemically treated for any disease. I feel that boosting the fish' immune system with high quality food and vitamins is th ebest way to. Even when I have had a bout with ich, I just fed 3 times per day with Garlic Guard, frozen seafood I make myself, nori, and vitamins. I had a PBT that got it fairly bad, but it was the only fish that would not go into my trap. The feeding did the trick, and it has been healthy ever since.

I have had two Nasos die on me within the first week of being in my display and I really don't know what happened with them. They looked healthy but became listless and wouldn't eat.

[pcostanzo]

Thats the good thing about the hypo. It boost the immunity because they don't spend so much energy expelling the salt. The only thing is keeping an eye on the salinity with the refractometer and making sure you lower and raise slowly not to stress the fish. I've had good luck with it and it doesn't kill the biological filter like the copper.

[erics3000]

When you say hypo you mean less salinity? I have done that in the past and it has worked for me. I was thinking of doing a big frag order but then it would be tight in a qt tank. But I think it is still better then putting anything in the tank that will affect it.

I put coper in my first tank a few years back it was a fo/lr tank. I wanted to use some of the rock from that tank but from what I read the copper can attach to the rock and release at a later time. Even though it has been about 2 1/2 years and a bunch of water changes later. I really wanted to use some of the rock so it could spread corraline faster. Oh well..

[jnarowe]

you should get some expert advice on that. Maybe cooking the rock would work, or running some kind of DIY plating mechanism to draw the copper out.

[erics3000]

plating mechanism?

[jnarowe]

well, I don't know the right term. When you plate something you provide electrical probes and current to attract the metal in suspension onto th eitem you wish to plate.

Check out The Chemistry of Copper Plating (http://www.woodrow.org/teachers/ci/1986/exp30.html). I think in this case you could use your rocks instead of pennies! :D

[erics3000]

I understand w\hat plating is just never heard of it to remove anything fro from a structure. I think I will just go with all new rock. All this time and money adn I dont want to take any chance. I will do some research ..Thanks J

Paul I new you would figure your skimmer out. Look forward to seeing that thing pull some pop out.

[pcostanzo]

Eric- yes hypo is lowering the salinity. Only for fish, no inverts or sharks. You do it slowly over a few days and the goal is to bring it down to 1.009. The fish survive fine but the parasites die. You have to keep the salinity there for 4-6 weeks.

I use some rock that was exposed to copper at one time but if your running carbon, if any copper leaches out it will be absorbed by the carbon.

[pcostanzo]

Skimmer kicked in a couple of days ago.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1609.jpg

[sherm71tank]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10789367#post10789367 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pcostanzo


I use some rock that was exposed to copper at one time but if your running carbon, if any copper leaches out it will be absorbed by the carbon.

Is there any study you can site for this information? If thats true then great but I don't think carbon absorbs copper effectively.

[DrDNA]

Seachem makes a filter media called "Cuprisorb" that is supposed to be effective at removing copper and other heavy metals. I am running some right now on my reef tank since for some reason I just started detecting traces of it in my system (I suspect it is from my well water). According to Seachem, it will also continue to absorb copper as it released from the substrate.

If it was me, I'd probably just get new rock and be safe though.

[pcostanzo]

I'm not sure of what studies are out there but I remember on SeaCures instructions and other copper product it's always said when treatment is done to remove by filtering over carbon. I tried finding out some more info but this was the only thing I came up with for now.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-06/dw/index.php

look under Carbon

[pcostanzo]

This was also interesting on stuff like phos ban

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.php

[erics3000]

I was thinkingjust to be on the safe side I will use new rock and sand. Decisions suck..Great articles I will read them in dsetail tonight.

I never new well water had copper in it. I use to use tap well water for a couple years for my fo tank. I did dose an old tank that had some of rock with coper as a rookie to help with an ich out break. I tested it a fe months back and the test kit showed it had a little copper. I should test my tap water.

Skimmer looking good

[sherm71tank]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10808597#post10808597 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by erics3000

Skimmer looking good

Yeah no kidding! You better wear a gas mask when you clean that thing and don't get any on ya! ;)

[pcostanzo]

For the last couple of weeks I have been working on my Kalk, Ca, carbon and phos ban. I liked how Jonathan combined media and Calcium into the same reactor. I was initially only going to put Carbon and Phos ban in one reactor and build separate Ca and Kalk. As I kept planning it I decided to make 1 big one that will handle all. I save space this way since it sits right next to the sump. Here are some pics.

Laying out the acrylic
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1611.jpg

Gluing up the baffles
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1612.jpg

Box glued up
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1613.jpg

Top with bulkheads in place
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1614.jpg

Bottom sits on a wood base
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1615.jpg

Eheim 1260 for the Ca loop. The 2 large lines are for Carbon and Phos that are fed by my manifold
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1616.jpg

[pcostanzo]

Full shot of reactor
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1621.jpg

Kalk Section
I am using a Hanna magnetic stirrer under the base
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/Kalk.jpg

Calcium Section
Instead of exterior plumbing for the loop and to feed the 2nd chamber, I did internal baffles to direct the water flow. The pump is under the base.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/Ca.jpg

Carbon/Phosban Section
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/carbon.jpg

The manifold now feeds water out for WC, left return, right return, chiller, carbon, phos, calcium
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1620.jpg

Fish room complete
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1617.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/paulcostanzo/100_1619.jpg

[JCurry]

NICE! I like it clean and simple.

[jnarowe]

Very Cool Paul. Looks great. Yeah that's the same damn gasket I tried first...I have a couple of questions:

1. How are you monitoring/controlling the pH in the Ca reactor?

2. How are you keeping kalk fines from getting into your tank? The kalk reactor looks very cloudy and I know from experience this is a bad thing.

[Elliott]

very nice, I wish I had some of your DIY skills

[pcostanzo]

Thanks guys.

Jonathan- I'm still messing with it to get it up and running correctly. The kalk is cloudy because I took the picture before it really settled. I programed my Aquacontroller to mix at certain times and not dose Kalk for an hour after. The next couple of days I'll check it out at mixing time and an hour after to see if its enough time to settle.

I just started setting a drip and bubble count for the Ca reactor. I will take a reading of the effluent with my ph probe. Hopefully when I get the bubble/drip dialed in I can keep the chamber around 6.5 and not have to monitor all the time. I did set the Aquacontroller to shut off the C02 solenoid if the ph of the sump drops too much.

I cant believe they can sell that neoprine gasket material that wont hold water. I got a roll of the weatherstipping that you used and it works fine.

[jnarowe]

Well, with a set point on the sump you shouldn't have any problem with the pH going to low, and to be honest, once you have your rate set, there is little need to monitor the Ca reactor pH. I have just had problems with my CO2 flow itself changing. I don't use a bubble count per se but just a target pH. It seems that with my current system load, about 6.50 is good. I know there are a lot of people that run lower, but with the low coral demand, it is not neccessary yet.

Those rubber gaskets are really made for better mechaical atachments, and probably items with strong metal flanges like water pump housings etc. It's just not made for what we are doing. The EDPM gasket you got works fine, but will age over time. But it is so easy to replace, I don't think that is a big deal. I still have not replaced any of mine.

Hopefully on my next project I can step up to properly routed gasket flanges, but that takes a big step in skill level.

Your reactor is pretty cool. I am interested to know about a couple of other things. In my carbon chamber, I have a perforated PVC basket with dividers, and before the carbon I am running 2 - 3 inches of washable Aquatic-Eco floss. That helps keep the muck out of the carbon which allows better absorption. I also have fine floss on either side of the GFO, plus the GFO is in a very fine sock. Yours looks like it has straight pass through...are you not concerned about getting GFO and carbon fines in your display? I even run the Ca/GFO effluent through two fine socks after it exits my reactor. :)

[pcostanzo]

You know, I have a roll of that Aquatic Eco fine floss. I'll try that.

[jnarowe]

That works well on either side of the GFO. I use the washable medium and coarse (http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/4311/cid/1192) before and after my carbon, as well as a sock on the outflow. This floss is the best I have ever used and it is truly re-usable.

[pcostanzo]

Ok. That works good. I had a whole roll of the fine because I was planning on using it in a tray for my overflows but it was too fine and clogged too quick. I use the medium now. It does wash out well. The kalk that looked cloudy was actually some build up on the acrylic. I wiped it down and when it settles the water is clear. I'm about to check the controller to see if it shuts down the kalk when it stirs.

[jnarowe]

yeah, i don't like the fine very much but I really like the medium and coarse 1"+ thick ones. The fine is OK for the GFO since that requires the fine and the flow is slow.

All in all I really like what you have done. It is designed differently than mine, with separate feeds for each chamber, but the net result is the same, and you may have a little more control over water flow. Too bad you didn't use gate valves!

I put the GFO inline after the Ca just to polish out any PO4 that is made in the Ca chamber.

The last time Steve Weast visited, he recommended soaking the media in RO/DI water for a couple of days prior to using it. He said that the first soak will show some PO4 in the water, and when you change it out for fresh RO/DI, it should show zero. I thought that was an interesting approach and his point was, why waste the GFO, when you can soak it out?