Need help! Xenia not looking good and Red Slime

[ddaddy2420]

I need a bit of help here. Out of nowhere this red slime looking stuff begins growing in my tank and it is virtually everywhere now. Here is a picture of it:
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee296/ddaddy2420/redslime.jpg

Also my xenia is looking bad. When i first placed it in there it looked great for a couple of days but now it is bumming. There is also some white stuff growing at its base. Any ideas.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee296/ddaddy2420/xenia.jpg
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee296/ddaddy2420/xenia2.jpg

Nitrates: 0
Nitrites: 0
Ammonia: 0
pH: 8.0
Salinity: 1.025
Water temp: 80-82

I just did a 20% water change with a premixed salt water which i have used before with no problems. Tank has been running for approx. 4 months. Also i have chaeto in my AC 70 converted fuge but it doesn't seem to be growing either. Looks grey.

[ShannHell]

the red stuff is cyanobacteria, its from too much nutrients in the water. Do you have a protein skimmer? If not, you should get one soon, that will help get alot of organic waste out of the water. I don't know about the xenia though. I am sure someone else will be able to help out there. You could try asking in the soft coral forum or something. They may be able to help there too.

[Aquarist007]

both are indicative of bacteria. Besides over feeding cyno bacteria usually form in areas of low flow. Directing a power head at the growths can help.
How long has your tank been up? and what else do you have in the tank------Red slime remover will do an excellent job but it is not recommended for new tanks or tanks with a huge bioload because it does kill some of the good bacteria besides the bad.

[ddaddy2420]

I have an arrow crab, 2 small snails, and a damsel. The tank has been running for approx 4 months now. I do not have a protein skimmer, i was under the impression that i didn't need one with this small a tank.

[happyface888]

That maybe true but a skimmer is always a good thing to have as a fail safe.

[zyglow]

With the tank being so young, you're going to get algea/cyano outbreaks as it matures. As others have stated, cyano is indicative of over feeding, low flow, and high phosphates. If your phosphates are high, it'll grow even with good water flow.

[MIKE ALERS]

i second the protein skimmer. i just lost my skimmer's pump do to a power surge and "voila" 4 days later im having a battle with cyano.

[ddaddy2420]

I feed the damsel probably once every 3 days or so. So i wouldn't think overfeeding would be an issue.

I will look into a skimmer if you think that will help, anything else that helps with high phosphates?

[MIKE ALERS]

maybe a phosphate pad?

[ddaddy2420]

Something i just read, i do have a small rock with some zoes on it that was about 5 or 6" from the xenia. I didn't really think about it till i just read a post regarding chemical warfare. There are only like 6 small zoes on this rock, would that cause problems for my xenia? How close it too close for softies?

[MIKE ALERS]

i dont think.i got some zoas about 3 to 4 inches from mine with no problem.but then i could be wrong.

[Yinepu]

This is what I have found through trial and error:

Your PH is a littel too low for the Xenia. They start to suffer when it goes below 8.3 or so.

Also what is your dkh? If it drops below 7 they will melt.

[ddaddy2420]

lol i don't even know what dkh is? Is that alkalinity?

My testing strips say Total alkalinity/Buffering capacity - that number is 300ppm

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10623544#post10623544 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ddaddy2420
lol i don't even know what dkh is? Is that alkalinity?

My testing strips say Total alkalinity/Buffering capacity - that number is 300ppm

these are the key water parameters that you need to measure or start measuring as your tank fully cycles and matures:
right now ammonia then later
nitrates
akalinity
pH
calcium
magnesium
salinty
temperature

alkalinity is a very important water parameter--you are best to invest in a good test kit--salifert for eg that uses titration rather then chemical strips
In titration you add a chemical by using a syringe till you get a colour change---you measure what is left in the syringe and match it up on a data sheet.
dkH is the german units for an alkalinity level---it seems to be the one most people prefer to use when stating their alkalinity levels

[Aquarist007]

the reason you need to measure your alkalinty level is so we can advise you what method to dose to bring up your pH or both your pH and alkalinity levels.

[Aquarist007]

the reason you need to measure your alkalinty level is so we can advise you what method to dose to bring up your pH or both your pH and alkalinity levels.

[Randall_James]

IMO:
You do not need a protein skimmer, your tank is small enough that water changes should be enough (25%-50% weekly as nano tanks pollute very easily)

The water changes will also alleviate most trace element and water testing. Salinity still needs monitored closely, however, most other levels are just going to remain very close to what your newly mixed water is at. You should occasionally check them all the same but if you are on a steady water change schedule, you will see that they just do not change

Powerheads: I do not think aiming or adding powerheads has much to do with "Cyano" other than it forces it to grow somewhere else. I do not believe is will "get rid" of any of it. Cyano is just a symptom of the nutrient overload in the water column.

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10623736#post10623736 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randall_James
IMO:
You do not need a protein skimmer, your tank is small enough that water changes should be enough (25%-50% weekly as nano tanks pollute very easily)

The water changes will also alleviate most trace element and water testing. Salinity still needs monitored closely, however, most other levels are just going to remain very close to what your newly mixed water is at. You should occasionally check them all the same but if you are on a steady water change schedule, you will see that they just do not change

Powerheads: I do not think aiming or adding powerheads has much to do with "Cyano" other than it forces it to grow somewhere else. I do not believe is will "get rid" of any of it. Cyano is just a symptom of the nutrient overload in the water column.

Randall, how do you feel about using a combination of reducing nutrient intake and Red Slime remover ?
I did everything suggested on this site--powerheads etc like you mention--nothing worked until I reduced /rinsed the frozen food I was feeding and used Red Slime Remover. Perhaps I was too quick to use it and reducing the feeding would have worked but when it started advancing on to the reef rock/corals I thought it was time to give in and use it.
Three weeks now not a sign of cyano

[Randall_James]

I think you hit the nail on the head, nutrient control..

You either need to 1) control the amount imported or 2) make sure excess is exported.. or best of all a combination of both..

I rinse all frozen foods
I turn off all pumps during feeding
I remove any uneaten food after 4 minutes (this will be 0 after 3 or 4 feedings as you will know the exact amount you need)

Water changes were impressed upon me by a few pretty notables I talked to before I ever got into this hobby. They were authors of books regarded by most as authoritative and without any commercial slant at the time.. They keyed on water changes and the more the better. When I had large tanks (100G plus) it was not as cheap or easy but the 20G weekly water changes seemed to keep me out of trouble. My smaller tanks get upwards of 40 to 50% weekly changes. Never had an algae issue or had to supplement anything other than CA..

RedSlime remover (AKA chemiclean) I have seen this used and it works like a champ. It does have a few downsides (o2 depletion etc) but it knocks the crap out of cyano.

I think if you are following instructions it can create a rapid improvement in tank appearance. I would just remind the user that it is not a fix, just a patch. The nutrient issues are still there, just hidden.

Never been much of a fan of chemical solutions but hey, sometimes you gotta make your eyes happy :) and it beats seeing some prize coral getting covered up in slime

[Aquarist007]

Randall, thank you for confirming that I am learning the right stuff :)