Sk8r
08/25/2007, 09:23 AM
...well, let's see: and mind, this is advisory, not ironclad.
LARGE FISH: you probably *will* need a good filter, plus your live rock and sand;a quarantine/hospital tank a sump and really, really good skimmer; autotopoff, ro/di filter, a really big tank. They come 6' long. What you don't need: mh lights, calcium reactor, etc. You do need tests for: ph, alkalinity, salinity [refractometer]; temperature; nitrate, nitrite; ammonia; a bottle of Amquel in case of emergencies; some Maracyn in case; and some copper med, in case...ONLY to be used in the hospital tank.
SMALL FISH: a quarantine/hospital tank; live rock, sand [aragonite]; a skimmer and sump is a real good idea. Filter is not often advised---only if no corals. Refugium is good---if you want dragonets, nearly mandatory unless your tank is over 75 g. Autotopoff. Ro/di of your own if your tank is over 5g will pay for itself. What you don't need: mh lights, calcium reactor, etc. You do need tests for: ph, alkalinity, salinity [refractometer]; temperature; nitrate, nitrite; ammonia; a bottle of Amquel in case of emergencies; some Maracyn in case ONLY for hospital tank; and some copper med, in case...ONLY to be used in the hospital tank. This also goes for clown/anemone tanks.
SOFTIE CORAL: live rock, sand [aragonite]; a skimmer and sump is a real good idea. Tank size: ranges widely. What you don't need: mh lights, calcium reactor, filter, etc. You do need tests for: ph, alkalinity, calcium [a good idea], salinity [refractometer]; temperature; nitrate, nitrite; ammonia. Autotopoff and ro/di. If you add fishes, see above. A refugium can keep down pest algae. BEST not to combine SOFTIES with STONY of any sort. Plan to trade your SOFTIES and mushroom rocks if you decide to go STONY. Watch your fish: some eat coral polyps. Angels and butterflies not reliable.
ANEMONES: some require very high lighting, incl. mh: do not get until your tank is at least 6 months old and chemically stable. Do not keep with softies or stony coral: exception: hardy mushrooms and buttons ok. Otherwise observe conditions for softie corals.
LPS STONY CORAL: no filter; live rock, aragonite sand; good skimmer with sump really adviseable; refugium keeps algae down; tank size optional. This is where MH lights can help, but strong lighting of other types ok. You may consider a kalk reactor up to 100g; adding a calcium reactor may be mandatory when you get up into the 150's. A ro/di filter and autotopoff. If fishes, see above. You may combine with SPS STONY but do not combine with SOFTIES. CLAMS do nicely in STONY tanks. Again, watch out for angels and butterflies: coral-eaters. Some individual rabbits also fancy green lps. All above tests plus: calcium, magnesium, and any other you think necessary.
SPS STONY CORAL. No filter; live rock, aragonite sand, though some go bare-bottom; high flow; good skimmer with sump; refugium keeps algae down; tank size optional. MH lights are standard but not universal. You may consider a kalk reactor up to 100g; adding a calcium reactor may be mandatory when you get up into the 150's. A ro/di filter and autotopoff. If fishes, see above. You may combine with SPS STONY but not recommended with SOFTIES. Not adviseable: angels, butterflies---some individuals and some whole species prey on stony coral. CLAMS ok. All above tests plus calcium, mg, and others as you deem useful.
Hope this breakdown gives you at least an idea. There are many variations on this, and each tank is a bit different, but this is for rule-of-thumb.
LARGE FISH: you probably *will* need a good filter, plus your live rock and sand;a quarantine/hospital tank a sump and really, really good skimmer; autotopoff, ro/di filter, a really big tank. They come 6' long. What you don't need: mh lights, calcium reactor, etc. You do need tests for: ph, alkalinity, salinity [refractometer]; temperature; nitrate, nitrite; ammonia; a bottle of Amquel in case of emergencies; some Maracyn in case; and some copper med, in case...ONLY to be used in the hospital tank.
SMALL FISH: a quarantine/hospital tank; live rock, sand [aragonite]; a skimmer and sump is a real good idea. Filter is not often advised---only if no corals. Refugium is good---if you want dragonets, nearly mandatory unless your tank is over 75 g. Autotopoff. Ro/di of your own if your tank is over 5g will pay for itself. What you don't need: mh lights, calcium reactor, etc. You do need tests for: ph, alkalinity, salinity [refractometer]; temperature; nitrate, nitrite; ammonia; a bottle of Amquel in case of emergencies; some Maracyn in case ONLY for hospital tank; and some copper med, in case...ONLY to be used in the hospital tank. This also goes for clown/anemone tanks.
SOFTIE CORAL: live rock, sand [aragonite]; a skimmer and sump is a real good idea. Tank size: ranges widely. What you don't need: mh lights, calcium reactor, filter, etc. You do need tests for: ph, alkalinity, calcium [a good idea], salinity [refractometer]; temperature; nitrate, nitrite; ammonia. Autotopoff and ro/di. If you add fishes, see above. A refugium can keep down pest algae. BEST not to combine SOFTIES with STONY of any sort. Plan to trade your SOFTIES and mushroom rocks if you decide to go STONY. Watch your fish: some eat coral polyps. Angels and butterflies not reliable.
ANEMONES: some require very high lighting, incl. mh: do not get until your tank is at least 6 months old and chemically stable. Do not keep with softies or stony coral: exception: hardy mushrooms and buttons ok. Otherwise observe conditions for softie corals.
LPS STONY CORAL: no filter; live rock, aragonite sand; good skimmer with sump really adviseable; refugium keeps algae down; tank size optional. This is where MH lights can help, but strong lighting of other types ok. You may consider a kalk reactor up to 100g; adding a calcium reactor may be mandatory when you get up into the 150's. A ro/di filter and autotopoff. If fishes, see above. You may combine with SPS STONY but do not combine with SOFTIES. CLAMS do nicely in STONY tanks. Again, watch out for angels and butterflies: coral-eaters. Some individual rabbits also fancy green lps. All above tests plus: calcium, magnesium, and any other you think necessary.
SPS STONY CORAL. No filter; live rock, aragonite sand, though some go bare-bottom; high flow; good skimmer with sump; refugium keeps algae down; tank size optional. MH lights are standard but not universal. You may consider a kalk reactor up to 100g; adding a calcium reactor may be mandatory when you get up into the 150's. A ro/di filter and autotopoff. If fishes, see above. You may combine with SPS STONY but not recommended with SOFTIES. Not adviseable: angels, butterflies---some individuals and some whole species prey on stony coral. CLAMS ok. All above tests plus calcium, mg, and others as you deem useful.
Hope this breakdown gives you at least an idea. There are many variations on this, and each tank is a bit different, but this is for rule-of-thumb.