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View Full Version : DIY Orca NW skimmer {please advise}


landy
08/31/2007, 07:08 PM
Here is the basic layout:

12" body X 24"
Reduced to 6"
7 7/8" ID bubble Plate X 5" deep

Reeflo Orca NW pump

The design is a tunze type head with an improved Orca bottom box.

So lets have it, what needs changed, and why?



http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/6707/skimmerreefloqv5.jpg


http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/9000/skimmerreefloassypl9.jpg

bubbeplate and top box .dxf cutsheet.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/8086/bubbleplateab5.jpg

thank you for your input

landy

lvpd186
09/01/2007, 04:05 AM
Looks really good to me! I've been thinking about trying something similar. How would your internal plumbing look? I would guess the only internal plumbing would be from the pump output to the bubble plate area. Also would there be any benefit to raising the bubble plate up a few inches? It would give the chamber a little more room plus less chance of having micro-bubbles getting drawn down in to the box.

landy
09/01/2007, 09:27 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10680274#post10680274 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lvpd186
Looks really good to me! I've been thinking about trying something similar. How would your internal plumbing look? I would guess the only internal plumbing would be from the pump output to the bubble plate area. Also would there be any benefit to raising the bubble plate up a few inches? It would give the chamber a little more room plus less chance of having micro-bubbles getting drawn down in to the box.



lvpd186,
thanks!

Yes the internal plumping would be a 1.5 pvc pipe through a uni-seal from the outer box into the bubbleplate box.

also, i see what your saying about the bubble being sucked into the box.

how about this for the fix:

http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/5236/bubbleboxzh2.jpg

anything else?

landy

lvpd186
09/01/2007, 11:07 AM
I think that would work. Do you think by moving the bubble plate towards the top of the tube that it would give more space to the area under the bubble plate and possibly reduce some turbulence?

landy
09/01/2007, 11:51 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10681616#post10681616 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lvpd186
I think that would work. Do you think by moving the bubble plate towards the top of the tube that it would give more space to the area under the bubble plate and possibly reduce some turbulence?

Makes sense.

Now bubbleplate box is 9” total, 5” above and 4” below.



http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/9537/skimmerreeflotallbbxt7.jpg

what else!

landy

hahnmeister
09/01/2007, 04:05 PM
Well, the only way that it will reduce turbulence (moving the plate up like that) is if you use a bleeder valve/outlet on the bottom of the bubble plate cyclinder so you can relieve some water pressure under the plate. I would suggest feeding this water back into the dart via a valve for fine tuning.

shelburn61
09/01/2007, 04:22 PM
I think you should look at other pumps. Much cheaper and more efficient options out there... A meshwheel Laguna, a couple eheim 1260's, etc. Are you planning an air pump feed on the orca?

hahnmeister
09/01/2007, 11:00 PM
A threadwheel dart can compete very well... better than the needlewheel.

landy
09/01/2007, 11:47 PM
Hahnmeister,

How big would the bubbleplate box need to be inorder to avoid the need for a pressure relief loop?

What threadwheel dart are you talking about, got a link?


Thanks for your input.

landy

RichConley
09/02/2007, 10:52 AM
I dont think a 6" neck is big enough. You'd be better off with 8.

hahnmeister
09/02/2007, 12:03 PM
I agree... 8" neck would be better. 6" could be too narrow... the head wouldnt get a chance to drain at all and you might end up with overflow problems.

Threadwheel Dart:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=950690&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

Size of the box... well... that depends on alot of things. The actual air vs. waterflow of your design. Thats why I suggest a seperate loop with a valve on it so you can regulate the actual flow, and then feed anything you might get back into the pump, since their may be some microbubbles. The ideal would be something larger than 8" in diameter... maybe more like 10"-12" (not possible here)... but to make up for this... you could just have more height under the plate. The ReefFlo doesnt even do anything like this at all, so I wouldnt worry too much. Its just a way to limit the water turbulence even further. A 1" pipe/valve should be enough to really cut down the pressure coming through the plate.

Also, I dont know why you have the ring around the bubble plate(looks like a PVC/toilet flange). To hold it in place or something? I would just leave it as open space.

MarkS
09/02/2007, 12:07 PM
Trying to show up my 3D skills, huh? Well, FINE! I'm going to go pout... :sad1:















J/K!

Nice design! :thumbsup:

lvpd186
09/03/2007, 05:46 AM
Are you going to build this now or are you still thinking about design changes?

landy
09/03/2007, 11:02 AM
Well, im still trying to figure out what hahn is saying. I cant imagine needing a 8” neck, considering that the reeflo skimmer seems to work with what looks like about 6”,, maybe im wrong?

So yes, I guess I am still working on the design. Then I need to draw each piece in dxf, so my girlfriend can cut them on the laser cnc @ her work. She brought home a few test cuts on Friday, that thing is amazing!

Does anyone know if infact the reeflo orca has a 6” neck or not?

Hahn if you could explain what this means any better I would greatly appreciate it:

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10686839#post10686839 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
Size of the box... well... that depends on alot of things. The actual air vs. waterflow of your design. Thats why I suggest a seperate loop with a valve on it so you can regulate the actual flow, and then feed anything you might get back into the pump, since their may be some microbubbles. The ideal would be something larger than 8" in diameter... maybe more like 10"-12" (not possible here)... but to make up for this... you could just have more height under the plate. The ReefFlo doesnt even do anything like this at all, so I wouldnt worry too much. Its just a way to limit the water turbulence even further. A 1" pipe/valve should be enough to really cut down the pressure coming through the plate.


I ask Again, how much height is needed to overcome, i have 9"'s now, is that enough?

Landy

landy
09/03/2007, 11:05 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10686839#post10686839 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
Also, I dont know why you have the ring around the bubble plate(looks like a PVC/toilet flange). To hold it in place or something? I would just leave it as open space.

O'yah, if i dont have my (toilet flange), then how is the water going to exit the skimmer body???

hahnmeister
09/03/2007, 11:29 AM
A taller cylinder for under the plate would give it more volume just like if it was wider. How much depends on how much you are trying to relieve. I have not worked with darts, so I cant tell you how much you will need. I know Spazz does this on the Volcanos, and his bubble chambers are about 12" tall and 12" in diameter. There is no way for you to get this, but anything helps. Your 8" diameter plate should still be fine, you just wont be able to relieve as much before you get microbubbles through the bleed port.

As for the 'toilet flange', I just thought that leaving the area blank (open space for the water to flow down freely) would be the easiest and best for bubble sorting.

BTW, I like your neck and collection cup design... very 'Bubbleking mini'. It might just be easier to copy it 100% though... have the ring seal/bottom of the cup be machined into the reducer, rather than the reducer funnel below. There will still be bubbles this way that can make their way around.

lvpd186
09/03/2007, 11:33 AM
Well if you draw the plans in solidworks I would love to take a look at them (and maybe make one for myself). I'm not really getting what Hahn is talking about either. I understand the pressure relief to reduce turbulence, but I'm not sure how you would route that back in to the pump input. Maybe a visual example would help?

landy
09/03/2007, 12:20 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10692495#post10692495 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
A taller cylinder for under the plate would give it more volume just like if it was wider. How much depends on how much you are trying to relieve. I have not worked with darts, so I cant tell you how much you will need. I know Spazz does this on the Volcanos, and his bubble chambers are about 12" tall and 12" in diameter. There is no way for you to get this, but anything helps. Your 8" diameter plate should still be fine, you just wont be able to relieve as much before you get microbubbles through the bleed port.

ok, i understand what your saying. Take a look @ this:

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/coralvue/rf-dims.jpg
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/coralvue/rf-skimmer.jpg
I have never worked with a dart NW either, but I am basing my design off of the fact that this one works well.

As for the 'toilet flange', I just thought that leaving the area blank (open space for the water to flow down freely) would be the easiest and best for bubble sorting.

Ok, let me work on this a bit, and see what I can come up with

BTW, I like your neck and collection cup design... very 'Bubbleking mini'. It might just be easier to copy it 100% though... have the ring seal/bottom of the cup be machined into the reducer, rather than the reducer funnel below. There will still be bubbles this way that can make their way around.

it’s a tunze like neck



A for porting a bubble plate relief back to the dart inlet, the more I think about it, the better of an idea it would be. There is allot to be said about adjustability. Wouldn’t there be an easier way to achieve this? Maybe not, you tell me??

landy

landy
09/03/2007, 12:21 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10692526#post10692526 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lvpd186
Well if you draw the plans in solidworks I would love to take a look at them (and maybe make one for myself). I'm not really getting what Hahn is talking about either. I understand the pressure relief to reduce turbulence, but I'm not sure how you would route that back in to the pump input. Maybe a visual example would help?

solidworks,,, i will check that out.

hahnmeister
09/03/2007, 01:37 PM
Well, with the Tunze neck, the reducer funnel is part of the main body. This way, no bubbles can sneak around the funnel. Then the neck comes down and around the top of the funnel. On your design, the funnel is attached to the cup rather then the body... this is different. If you are trying to get the same design as the Tunze, make the funnel part of the body. then, you will have to put a 1/2" port on this 'void' area for the air intake, and then another port for water overflow and air intake. This way, if the skimmer ever goes foam crazy, this 'void' will fill and the air intake for the dart will start sucking down water... stopping the crazy foaming. Honestly, the 'crazy foaming' is usually due to skimmers with necks that are too narrow for the air throughput. Its common with some ER skimmers because they sometimes have more than 100-130 lph per square inch of neck area. This is waaaay too much. The 'ideal' is about 60-70 lph per square inch of neck. This produces a much more stable head of foam that wont 'go crazy' as easily.

landy
09/03/2007, 02:09 PM
How about this:

10” OD X 8” tall Bubble plate box.
http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/1125/newskimboxnb1.jpg

landy
09/03/2007, 02:22 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10693234#post10693234 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
Well, with the Tunze neck, the reducer funnel is part of the main body. This way, no bubbles can sneak around the funnel. Then the neck comes down and around the top of the funnel. On your design, the funnel is attached to the cup rather then the body... this is different. If you are trying to get the same design as the Tunze, make the funnel part of the body. then, you will have to put a 1/2" port on this 'void' area for the air intake, and then another port for water overflow and air intake. This way, if the skimmer ever goes foam crazy, this 'void' will fill and the air intake for the dart will start sucking down water... stopping the crazy foaming. Honestly, the 'crazy foaming' is usually due to skimmers with necks that are too narrow for the air throughput. Its common with some ER skimmers because they sometimes have more than 100-130 lph per square inch of neck area. This is waaaay too much. The 'ideal' is about 60-70 lph per square inch of neck. This produces a much more stable head of foam that wont 'go crazy' as easily.


I realize that the reducer is not attached to the collection cup in the tunze skimmer, but the reducer is NOT fixed to the skimmer body, it is removable as well.

http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/2006/tunzesz8.gif


my design should work similar, the seal should be tight so bubbles don’t enter easily, yet if the water level rises this area will fill as well.

hahnmeister
09/03/2007, 05:48 PM
hmm... interesting. It must be a rubber gasket on the tunzes or something. Hmm... didnt know that.. only seen the AquaEuros in person, and those are fixed in place. I dont know that your design will have that same 'anti-overflow' feature to it though, since I think the water needs to spill over the top instead. Still... interesting though. Hey, if you think you can make it that snug of a fit though... go for it.

I like your new box. I hope the slot around the outside of the 10" diameter is enough though now (12" diameter body would be about 11" on the inside only if its 1/2" thick... leaving only a 1/2" space around the bubble plate). I suppose w/o the 'toilet flange' cutout there, the remaining area is actually larger than before, but still... could be too narrow. You are prolly alright with an 8" or 8.5" diameter bubble plate... the bleeder valve is just something extra that ReefFlo doesnt even do... and its not like their skimmer is exactly hurting without it.

landy
09/03/2007, 09:28 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10694629#post10694629 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
(12" diameter body would be about 11" on the inside only if its 1/2" thick... leaving only a 1/2" space around the bubble plate).


1/2" thick :eek1: :eek1: :eek1:

i was planning for 1/8 inch!

were do you get your acryilc tubing? i cant even find 12" by 1/2" thick, and dont want to know what it would cost when i did find it.

i was planning on getting my tubing for mcmaster, do you have a better source?

landy

hahnmeister
09/03/2007, 09:33 PM
Im not sure, but does McMaster have cast acrylic that size (not sure actually)? 1/8" is too thin... at least, I would suggest 1/4" thick, if not 3/8".

lvpd186
09/03/2007, 09:37 PM
Maybe I'm thinking too much but with all the water pressure going in to the tube under the bubble plate do you think it would be a good idea to at least leave some of your early design. I think it added stability to the design. Instead of just doing away with it why not leave a little material on each side and have four longer slots for the water to return to the box. Like I said though, I maybe over thinking that :).

landy
09/03/2007, 10:34 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10696285#post10696285 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lvpd186
Maybe I'm thinking too much but with all the water pressure going in to the tube under the bubble plate do you think it would be a good idea to at least leave some of your early design. I think it added stability to the design. Instead of just doing away with it why not leave a little material on each side and have four longer slots for the water to return to the box. Like I said though, I maybe over thinking that :).

The bubble plate box will bolt to the bottom of the main box. It will be stronger and flow better even if I do make it 10" instead of 8". Also the design is simpler, which is typically better. It will still all be removable for cleaning, so no worries.

Thanks for the concerns.

I think im going to go ahead and order the NW dart tonight, and by the end of the week have all the tubing ordered. Then when I get that stuff in hand, I can start making the .dxf files for the acrylic sheets.

Landy

landy
09/03/2007, 10:51 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10696265#post10696265 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
Im not sure, but does McMaster have cast acrylic that size (not sure actually)? 1/8" is too thin... at least, I would suggest 1/4" thick, if not 3/8".

mcmaster has cast 12" OD 1/8" thick @ 170$ for 24". if you go to 1/4 it jumps to 300$, and they dont offer anything thicker in 12" OD.


please tell me a better source.

landy

hahnmeister
09/03/2007, 11:58 PM
You might want to hunt around a little for that actually then... perhaps ORCA or firstclassaquatics.com, or even Spazz could hook you up with a better price. $300 is about right for 1/4" wall 12" diameter though... or rather $150 a foot, by retail. If you get someone with a buyers account at an acrylic distributor, then you can get a much better price.

landy
09/04/2007, 02:51 PM
well, if anyone has a good line on some acrylic tubing please let me know

thanks!!!!!

H20ENG
09/04/2007, 07:33 PM
I've heard that www.freckleface.com has the best price on tubing, but havent looked in awhile. Great build!

So the advantage of this Tunze head is that if it overflows the airline sucks it back to the pump?? I just hang my overflow bottle on the side of the sump. If it ever goes nuts then it soills back to the sump.

I do like the removable cone though.
Dang I wish I could draw:(

landy
09/04/2007, 08:07 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10702319#post10702319 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
I've heard that www.freckleface.com has the best price on tubing, but havent looked in awhile. Great build!

So the advantage of this Tunze head is that if it overflows the airline sucks it back to the pump?? I just hang my overflow bottle on the side of the sump. If it ever goes nuts then it soills back to the sump.

I do like the removable cone though.
Dang I wish I could draw:(


good link, but not any cheaper than mcmaster.

landy

hahnmeister
09/04/2007, 08:16 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10702319#post10702319 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
So the advantage of this Tunze head is that if it overflows the airline sucks it back to the pump?? I just hang my overflow bottle on the side of the sump. If it ever goes nuts then it soills back to the sump.


The difference is that with the tunze if the skimmer goes crazy, the fresh foam simply passes out the 'overflow' area, not into the cup. With your solution, the skimmer goes nuts, puts a bunch of fresh water into the collection cup, and thats it. Sure, it prevents an accident, but it doesnt really sort the overflow back into the skimmer/sump, and the real nasty stuff into the cup.

hahnmeister
09/04/2007, 08:17 PM
You might just want to contact ORCA. Considering the price of cast alone, ORCA may just be able to construct what you want (or part of it), for less than it would cost you just for the material.

landy
09/04/2007, 10:58 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10702711#post10702711 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
You might just want to contact ORCA. Considering the price of cast alone, ORCA may just be able to construct what you want (or part of it), for less than it would cost you just for the material.

I wouldn’t need them to construct anything... i have a good source for acrylic sheets, but this place doesn’t stock tubing, and if i want to order it, they said I have to buy 6' of each size.

If I can’t find some reasonably priced tubing, I might as well just buy the ORCA skimmer, that would be cheaper.

Landy

landy
09/10/2007, 08:03 PM
Got my NW dart today… the pin wheel is beefy to say the least. The venture looks like 2” schedule 160 machined down.

After hours searching online I have found a few other places that carry cast acrylic tubing with better pricing.

http://www.sdplastics.com/castacrylictube.html

http://www.americanplasticsonline.com/index.htm


I’ve emailed a request for quotation to American Plastics, with no response and plan on calling San Diego plastics tomorrow to see what they will do for me.

I think I need to setup a group buy or something; I sure could get it cheaper if I was buying 6’ lengths!:eek1: Maybe I Just need to build like 3 of these bad boys or something!:smokin:

Landy

lvpd186
09/10/2007, 08:08 PM
Got any photos of the pump and the pin wheel?

landy
09/10/2007, 08:10 PM
nope, but i will bust out the camera...

lvpd186
09/10/2007, 08:15 PM
BTW have you looked at USPlastics (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=21315&product%5Fid=11248) ? It says that you can buy by the foot.

lvpd186
09/10/2007, 08:17 PM
Here is the link for cast (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=21315&product%5Fid=21113) .

landy
09/10/2007, 08:39 PM
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/3971/img0472wu3.jpg

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/107/img0474tv2.jpg

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/4892/img0475nx8.jpg

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/1377/img0477eq5.jpg

landy
09/10/2007, 08:41 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10739670#post10739670 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lvpd186
BTW have you looked at USPlastics (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=21315&product%5Fid=11248) ? It says that you can buy by the foot.


that is extruded,

i think i look there...

thanks

landy
09/10/2007, 08:43 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10739686#post10739686 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lvpd186
Here is the link for cast (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=21315&product%5Fid=21113) .


yah, thats the cast, they dont go big enough, and not that cheap..

thanks anyways..

did you look @ the links i have, prices are not bad, but i think i can do better if i find the right contact.

landy

landy
09/11/2007, 05:53 PM
well,

i ordered my tubing today... with my oring material, and uniseals.

went with mcmaster. by the time it was all said and done, i couldnt come up with anything better for cut sizes. it was around 500$ for:

2' 12"X1/4"
1' 8" X1/4"
3' 6" x1/4" ( gonna build a kalk reactor too)
also, 10' of 1/4 red oring stock
and a slew of uniseal size ( never have to many of these )

so i have 280 in the pump
500 in tubing
and i still need 3/8" sheet:
a 4'X4' of clear
and a 4'X4' of white

when its all said and done, i will be into it for about the same as the orca skimmer :( ,,,, owell

i will post a few picks when the goods arive.

thanks for looking

landy

Lucky Strike
09/11/2007, 06:00 PM
im not knocking the orca, but you'll be a hell of a lot happier diy it rather than buying it. its all meteric, every little bit of it = damn near impossible to fix should you need to.

landy
09/11/2007, 06:11 PM
lucky,

do you have one?

if so, what is the wall thickness of the reaction chamber?
just curious

thanks

landy

landy
09/14/2007, 09:26 PM
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/5053/acrylictubinggy1.jpg


looking @ this stuff, i think i could have gone thinner.

what is the wall thickness on a typical 12" skimmer???

landy

luke33
09/14/2007, 10:44 PM
You did the right thing and didn't go cheap, personally i woule have went 1/8" on everything but the 12".

lvpd186
09/14/2007, 11:25 PM
I agree, as long as you are going to build it you might as well make it to last. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress on this one. :)

landy
09/14/2007, 11:28 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10770152#post10770152 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by luke33
You did the right thing and didn't go cheap, personally i woule have went 1/8" on everything but the 12".

wasnt a big diff. in price on anything BUT the 12". it was double.

landy

landy
09/14/2007, 11:30 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10770311#post10770311 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lvpd186
I agree, as long as you are going to build it you might as well make it to last. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress on this one. :)

now that i have the pump and tubing i can finalize the plans. then its time to cnc some acrylic sheet:smokin:

landy
09/16/2007, 01:53 AM
here is an updated design. Im working on the pump plumping. It seems the venturi that came with the pump is longer than the one use on the orca skimmers. Anyways, im trying to decide if it is worth adding a gate valve to the design?
http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/7600/skimmerreeflo2dz6.jpg
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/2876/skimmerreeflo3tk0.jpg


landy

reeferman75
09/16/2007, 07:10 AM
why do you want a gate valve in the intake side of the pump?

Lucky Strike
09/16/2007, 08:03 AM
so he can controll the amount of water going into the skimmer. the orca skimmers use a small venturi that is right at the pump inlet, and not the ones supplied with the nw pump. the volcano skimmers have a gate valve there, so id put one there too.

Lucky Strike
09/16/2007, 08:05 AM
i dont see any unions to make dissasembly possible.

landy
09/16/2007, 10:26 AM
are there any advatages to using the supplied venturi? this thing is like 3.5" long.

as for the unions, i need to put them in, but if i do the pump will be even further away from the skimmer. I will have to have at least one on the intake side, but i might be able to get away without one on the output as it will have a uniseal for a bulkhead.


landy

landy
09/25/2007, 05:59 PM
http://www.ndowded.com/Reef/ReeflowSkimmer/IMG_0487.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/Reef/ReeflowSkimmer/IMG_0488.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/Reef/ReeflowSkimmer/IMG_0490.jpg
http://www.ndowded.com/Reef/ReeflowSkimmer/IMG_0491.jpg

landy
09/25/2007, 06:04 PM
laser CNC's wupA$$...

that is a few of my test cutsheet.

I should have the three peices back tongiht for my side project a kalk reactor. i will throw some pictures up tommorow.

landy

lvpd186
09/25/2007, 08:06 PM
Thats pretty sweet! My brother owns a machine shop but all of his CNC machines are the typical spindle (if thats the correct word to use) type. I imagine that the laser would have a cleaner edge (you can see the shine in the photos) plus you probably don't have to mess with the lubricant stuff.

landy
09/25/2007, 11:15 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10843537#post10843537 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lvpd186
Thats pretty sweet! My brother owns a machine shop but all of his CNC machines are the typical spindle (if thats the correct word to use) type. I imagine that the laser would have a cleaner edge (you can see the shine in the photos) plus you probably don't have to mess with the lubricant stuff.
shinny pretty much says it and very clean as well; just blow them off, and they're ready for weldon.











http://www.ndowded.com/Reef/ReeflowSkimmer/IMG_0492.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/Reef/ReeflowSkimmer/IMG_0493.jpg

Only got one piece cut for the kalk reactor tonight, it took 45 minutes to grove it for the tubing:eek1:. turned out perfect.
landy

H20ENG
09/26/2007, 03:51 PM
Did you groove it with the laser?
Nice parts! The DIY aspect of this hobby sure has been taken to another level with all you CNC guys around here! I'd LOVE to play with one of those toys...

landy
09/26/2007, 05:28 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10849008#post10849008 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
Did you groove it with the laser?
Nice parts! The DIY aspect of this hobby sure has been taken to another level with all you CNC guys around here! I'd LOVE to play with one of those toys...

Yes it was grooved with the laser, that’s why it took so long. And i don’t get to play with it :( , i only get to draw the cut sheets. My girlfriend is the one with the sweet job that has a laser cnc, actually they have two.

landy

H20ENG
09/26/2007, 05:42 PM
I wonder if gluing the lasered edges causes crazing? I know if you you try to glue a flame polished edge it'll darn near explode. I'm sure the lazer is pretty quick in its cut, but it crossed my mind...
A good question for James too I guess.
Sweet project Landy.

landy
09/26/2007, 06:04 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10849700#post10849700 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
I wonder if gluing the lasered edges causes crazing? I know if you you try to glue a flame polished edge it'll darn near explode. I'm sure the lazer is pretty quick in its cut, but it crossed my mind...
A good question for James too I guess.
Sweet project Landy.


Not sure, i glued the bottom on the kalk reactor last night, and it was pretty uneventful. What would cause it to “craze”. The fact that it has been heated? That doesn’t make any sense because about any way you cut it will create heat?

hahnmeister
09/26/2007, 06:33 PM
I know that laser edges arent always as 'square' as needed, and that the heat can seal the capilaries in the plastic, making it more resistant to bonding across an uneven surface. www.firstclassaquatics.com uses a laser cutter as well, and from some custom parts he has done for me, he gave me that warning as well, suggesting that I go back and sand the bonding edges to be safe. The heat from a router is alot less than a laser... a router/saw is using a mechanical edge to remove material. A laser is using heat... to burn the material away... big difference in heat. I wouldnt worry too much... just sand the bond surfaces and/or follow up all the capillary bonds with fillets of weldon16 as reinforcement.

landy
09/26/2007, 07:42 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10850053#post10850053 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
I know that laser edges arent always as 'square' as needed, and that the heat can seal the capilaries in the plastic, making it more resistant to bonding across an uneven surface. www.firstclassaquatics.com uses a laser cutter as well, and from some custom parts he has done for me, he gave me that warning as well, suggesting that I go back and sand the bonding edges to be safe. The heat from a router is alot less than a laser... a router/saw is using a mechanical edge to remove material. A laser is using heat... to burn the material away... big difference in heat. I wouldnt worry too much... just sand the bond surfaces and/or follow up all the capillary bonds with fillets of weldon16 as reinforcement.

what grit paper would you recommend?

landy

hahnmeister
09/26/2007, 10:17 PM
100-200 should be plenty fine.

landy
10/04/2007, 07:48 PM
here is a little update...

my kalk reactor is working great. i am fine tuning my cutsheets for the skimmer, more to come.

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/IMG_0494.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/IMG_0496.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/IMG_0499.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/IMG_0500.jpg

landy

H20ENG
10/04/2007, 08:19 PM
Now thats just cool!

lvpd186
10/04/2007, 08:53 PM
Very nice!

landy
10/04/2007, 08:59 PM
thanks!!!

hemi18
10/05/2007, 09:44 AM
for the record....i have a 30" by 10" skimmer and use 1/8" wall cast acrylic. there are no problems with strength...to be honest i think someone could technically go with smaller. b/c it's round the pressure forces work against each other almost cancelling each other out. therefore a smaller wall for tubing can withstand MUCH more pressure. unless your going to hit it with a bat while it's filled with water then i would use 1/8" wall tubing all around. it may even withstand a bat...the strength properties of a cylindar are much different that of flat surfaces...

landy
10/05/2007, 05:26 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10909286#post10909286 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hemi18
for the record....i have a 30" by 10" skimmer and use 1/8" wall cast acrylic. there are no problems with strength...to be honest i think someone could technically go with smaller. b/c it's round the pressure forces work against each other almost cancelling each other out. therefore a smaller wall for tubing can withstand MUCH more pressure. unless your going to hit it with a bat while it's filled with water then i would use 1/8" wall tubing all around. it may even withstand a bat...the strength properties of a cylindar are much different that of flat surfaces...

well if you can hit yours with a bat, i should be able to take a few shoots @ mine with a pistol:eek1:...

i think 1/8" would have been fine, but i KNOW 1/4" will:smokin:


thanks for your input

landy

radone
10/05/2007, 06:46 PM
Got a number for the o-ring material?
Thanks
Man you must have one nice girlfriend (Can't she get in trouble for doing this at work or is this considered homework) ;)

landy
10/05/2007, 07:07 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10912679#post10912679 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by radone
Got a number for the o-ring material?
Thanks
Man you must have one nice girlfriend (Can't she get in trouble for doing this at work or is this considered homework) ;)

96505K23

Yes I do :D

landy

radone
10/06/2007, 06:34 AM
Thanks landy

sweet build so far

shelburn61
10/06/2007, 07:52 AM
Where did you buy the gasket?

landy
10/06/2007, 09:18 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10915257#post10915257 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shelburn61
Where did you buy the gasket?

its o-ring cord stock

@ mcmaster.com

make sure to get the 6 dollar splicing tool, and practice a few first to get the hang of it.

landy

landy
10/08/2007, 10:25 PM
here is the top to the skimmer. man it was a PITA to get a good shot of this..

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/biohazard.jpg

landy

reeferman75
10/08/2007, 10:26 PM
after building my diy orca there realy isnt any need for the gate valve on the pump

landy
10/08/2007, 10:27 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10933114#post10933114 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reeferman75
after building my diy orca there realy isnt any need for the gate valve on the pump

do you have some picture you would like to share?

thanks

landy

reeferman75
10/08/2007, 10:28 PM
Here it is during the water test before I put in online
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o76/reeferman75/Picture080.jpg

landy
10/08/2007, 10:39 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10933128#post10933128 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reeferman75
Here it is during the water test before I put in online
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o76/reeferman75/Picture080.jpg

looks sweet!!!

what thickness tubing did you use?

what did you use to reduce for 12 to 8", DIY or mod a dome?

do you have a bubble plate?

thanks for sharing!!!!!!


landy

reeferman75
10/08/2007, 10:42 PM
Yes I have a bubble plate and the cone I made out of heating the acrylic and forming it with a heat gun. I used 1/8 inch that all you need seeing how with a cylider there are no stress poiint to worry about.

landy
10/08/2007, 10:48 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10933208#post10933208 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reeferman75
Yes I have a bubble plate and the cone I made out of heating the acrylic and forming it with a heat gun. I used 1/8 inch that all you need seeing how with a cylider there are no stress poiint to worry about.


cool,

anything you would do diffrent the next time around?

or anything else in my design you would change besides the gate on the intake?

thanks reefer!!!!!!

reeferman75
10/08/2007, 10:58 PM
the only thing I would have like to do different was to finish learing how to use my CNC . Building this all by hand sucked. As far as yours go I think your design looks good. Looking forward to seeing your progress on your build.

landy
10/08/2007, 11:42 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10933315#post10933315 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reeferman75
the only thing I would have like to do different was to finish learing how to use my CNC . Building this all by hand sucked. As far as yours go I think your design looks good. Looking forward to seeing your progress on your build.

thanks!!!!

landy
10/28/2007, 08:04 PM
http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/IMG_0567.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/IMG_0568.jpg


A little progress this weekend!

Landy

reeferman75
10/28/2007, 08:06 PM
Landy
Its looking realy good.

wizsmaster
11/17/2007, 01:46 PM
any updates/progress on this?

landy
11/17/2007, 08:42 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11202577#post11202577 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wizsmaster
any updates/progress on this?

yes, but have been to lazy to update...

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/p1010896.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/p1010898.jpg

i need to cut the 12" acrylic tube, but have been putting if off. just need to man up and do it.

landy

lvpd186
11/17/2007, 11:21 PM
Looks great so far. Have you had any problems with glueing the laser cut pieces?

landy
11/18/2007, 10:44 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11205620#post11205620 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lvpd186
Looks great so far. Have you had any problems with glueing the laser cut pieces?


not yet, but i have been sanding the few peices that glue on a lasered edge.


landy

landy
11/18/2007, 06:09 PM
a little more progress..
http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/p1010900.jpg


I still need to build the reducer, not sure how to make it yet...

landy

wizsmaster
11/18/2007, 07:03 PM
looking good. keep up the good work.

H20ENG
11/20/2007, 06:06 PM
Did your bubble plate holes come out polished from the laser? If not, how'd you get them so damn sparkly?:)

landy
11/20/2007, 07:02 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11224116#post11224116 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
Did your bubble plate holes come out polished from the laser? If not, how'd you get them so damn sparkly?:)

yep, thats the laser...

Mishap
11/25/2007, 12:37 PM
Any updates? I'm really diggin this build

landy
11/25/2007, 07:53 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11251095#post11251095 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mishap
Any updates? I'm really diggin this build
not as much as i would like.

but i did get a little done with the trim ring that bolts the reaction chamber to the base.

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/rc_trimRing.jpg

ReeferRyan
11/30/2007, 11:48 PM
I have been following this thread, and I really like the ideas I have gotten. I have one really newbie question that even with all of my research I have been unable to answer; What does a bubble plate do, and why are they necessary for high performance skimmers. I noticed that all of the designs in this thread incorporate them, as well as many upper end commercial skimmers, but I do not understand what role they play. Any help?

hahnmeister
12/01/2007, 03:22 AM
They diffuse turbulence... like a spraybar. You can get similar effects through other methods, like simply adding more height, but this would put more back-pressure on the air intake of the pump. Or, you could use multiple smaller pumps rather than one large one, as most large pumps w/o a diffuser would turn a shorter skimmer into a whirlpool. The bubble plate allows one large pump to be used on a skimmer body that would be shorter, and sometimes narrower than usual by cutting down the turbulence. By cutting down the height, another benefit is less back-pressure on the air intake of the pump, so you get more air for less wattage, etc... its a win-win all around.

ReeferRyan
12/01/2007, 02:44 PM
I see. Thanks for the info. I am about to dive into my first DIY skimmer, and I am trying to not screw up more than about half of what I try :)

chetm2
12/04/2007, 10:25 PM
More pics! Very cool project. I'd love to check it out some time. I use a laser at my work but it's an older engraving style not the fun CNC kind :)

stugray
12/04/2007, 10:41 PM
Hey Hahn, you definitely have a grasp of this stuff...

ReeferRyan stated: "What does a bubble plate do, and why are they necessary for high performance skimmers."

SO one thing I am curious about: What about the difference between open bottom bubble chambers versus closed?

It seems that landy went with a completely closed bubble chamber. Why not have some holes in the bottom? It seems that if some of the pressure from the pump was relieved by some vents low in the chamber, then that would reduce turbulence from escaping from the top with the bubbles. I would think you'd want the bubble free water to escape from the bottom and allow the bubbles to 'freely escape' from the top without being 'blown' through the top. I guess it's a balance thing and hard to adjust after the build?

Stu

JCTewks
12/04/2007, 11:11 PM
It's fairly easy to do with a semi-closed bubble chamber....You have a typical closed bottom bubble chamber, but you run a line out of the bottom going back to the recirc pumps intake, throw a gate valve on that line for adjustments and voila! you have complete control of how much of the recirc's output is being "blasted" out through the top of the diffuser.

Brandan
12/06/2007, 08:19 AM
Awesome craftsmanship!!!!!

landy
12/06/2007, 07:46 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11317075#post11317075 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stugray

It seems that landy went with a completely closed bubble chamber. Why not have some holes in the bottom? It seems that if some of the pressure from the pump was relieved by some vents low in the chamber, then that would reduce turbulence from escaping from the top with the bubbles. I would think you'd want the bubble free water to escape from the bottom and allow the bubbles to 'freely escape' from the top without being 'blown' through the top. I guess it's a balance thing and hard to adjust after the build?


it wont be that hard to adjust after its build. these parts are removable and replaceable. I'm sure i will make a few more bubble plates to try out, and i may end up venting the bubble chamber back to the pump, if it is necessary.

landy

chetm2
12/06/2007, 08:13 PM
Landy, if you want to come by and check out how the Reeflo bubble plate is done let me know. I'm sure you've seen a lot of pictures but seeing it in person always helps.

Chet

landy
12/06/2007, 11:14 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11330952#post11330952 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chetm2
Landy, if you want to come by and check out how the Reeflo bubble plate is done let me know. I'm sure you've seen a lot of pictures but seeing it in person always helps.

Chet

i will keep that in mind. thanks for the offer!!

landy

radone
12/13/2007, 05:30 PM
Any updates :D

landy
12/13/2007, 07:38 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11379090#post11379090 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by radone
Any updates :D

Again, not as much as i would like.

I finally got the reducer heat formed, 2 jigs and 3 pieces of acrylic latter.:rolleye1:

My lady is cutting it as we speak, when she gets home I will post a picture.

That is pretty much the last piece of the puzzle. If I didn’t have to go out of town tomorrow and into the weekend, I might get it assembled. But what can you do, work pays the bills.:(

landy

landy
12/17/2007, 09:38 PM
late but worth the wait

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/p1010993.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/p1010994.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/p1010995.jpg

landy

shelburn61
12/18/2007, 07:48 PM
Sweet Landy! Just ran across this thread. PM returned

lvpd186
12/18/2007, 08:20 PM
Man that is turning out great! I look forward to seeing how it performs!

landy
12/24/2007, 09:18 AM
http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeFlowSkimmer/IMG_0608.jpg
About an hour after installation.

I did a freshwater test for 1 hour. Then I ran with tank water outside for about 12 hours closed loop first. It holds about 15 gallons.

I have been trying to tune it in. Its seem like it could use about 6 more inches of reaction chamber. It cant handle the dart wide open unless I drop the water level down past the reducing flange. I have pretty much left the air valve wide open.

The body looks like milk compared to the beckett skimmer I have been running, but is more turbulent that I would like to see. I may have to change the bubble plate, or as hahn and others have suggested, vent the diffuser back to the dart with a gate valve.

The diffuser chamber has a great circle motion to it, i will see if i cant take some video of it or something.



landy

GuySmilie
12/24/2007, 02:22 PM
Really looking good there bub!

Lucky Strike
12/24/2007, 04:34 PM
my skimmer wouldnt tune for about 2 weeks, until it "broke in" it overflowed alot, or the head height would colapse with very little adjustment. Hopefully it will be more tunable in some time. It looks really good!

chin_lee
12/24/2007, 07:00 PM
Just curious whats the dimensions of the tubing used for the reaction chamber and and bubble diffuser chamber?

landy
12/25/2007, 12:04 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11451671#post11451671 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chin_lee
Just curious whats the dimensions of the tubing used for the reaction chamber and and bubble diffuser chamber?

12" by 1/4" for RC
8" by 1/4" for bubble diff

landy

landy
12/27/2007, 12:05 PM
i think it might be starting to get broken in.. if i would quit messing with it, i might start to get some real skimmate.

i still think the main body is a bit to turbulant, but i want to give it some time to see what happens.

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/img_0611.jpg

landy

chetm2
12/27/2007, 12:11 PM
Looks pretty good to me. You done good :) More Pictures please!

landy
12/27/2007, 12:40 PM
thanks chetm2!

as for more pictures, anything in particular?

here is a .gif trying to show the circular turbulence in the bubble diffuser.
http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/IMG_0612.gif

chetm2
12/27/2007, 12:58 PM
Do you think the bubble diffuser is big enough? How about some pictures of the main body and at the neck. What about a little video of it in action? Very cool either way.

saltydragon
12/27/2007, 02:51 PM
love diy skimmers....this one is very cool....

OnlyCrimson
12/27/2007, 06:20 PM
Yeah it does look like it needs a little more height. Awesome job on it, that thing looks very proffesional.

OnlyCrimson
12/27/2007, 06:20 PM
Yeah it does look like it needs a little more height. Awesome job on it, that thing looks very proffesional.

OranguTang
12/27/2007, 06:29 PM
Dope, I like your kalk reactor too. When are you going into business? Heck can I just hit you up for a custom collection cup top? Would love one of my designs on one. Haha

Keep it up.

chin_lee
12/27/2007, 07:51 PM
How tall did you make the diffuser?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11454114#post11454114 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by landy
12" by 1/4" for RC
8" by 1/4" for bubble diff

landy

landy
12/27/2007, 10:58 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11467776#post11467776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chin_lee
Just curious whats the dimensions of the tubing used for the reaction chamber and and bubble diffuser chamber?


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11467776#post11467776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Landy
12" by 1/4" for RC
8" by 1/4" for bubble diff
landy

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11467776#post11467776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chin_lee
How tall did you make the diffuser?
http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/tubedims.jpg
anything else?

Perhaps,,,
http://www.ndowded.com/burns.gif
I could interest you in some .dxf cut sheet.
Mr. Lee;)

landy
01/03/2008, 10:11 AM
i think she might be broken in here real soon

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/P1020060.jpg

landy

JCTewks
01/03/2008, 11:39 PM
landy: Are you able to run it at full air yet?

landy
01/04/2008, 06:48 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11517483#post11517483 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JCTewks
landy: Are you able to run it at full air yet?


that is the only way i have been running it.

the only thing i have turned down is the 2" gate valve on the darts intake. but i dont have it turned down much, maybe 3 full turns off open or so.


i think i might need to adjust the water level, i have been running it kinda low to avoid an overflow, but so far it has been pretty constant.

landy

superchargeme
01/04/2008, 08:45 AM
Awsome job. Thanks for the pictures. It's nice to have a laser. Gets me thinking of moding my Aero former 648.

landy
01/10/2008, 07:42 PM
finally cleaned the collection cup.

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/p1020066.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/p1020067.jpg


landy

chetm2
01/10/2008, 09:33 PM
:beer: Looks sweet. If your skimmer is anything like mine you'll get better performance with a little higher water level. It's one of those set it and sit down with a 6 pack to see if it's going to overflow :eek1: But once you get it set it will really start pulling out some dark skinmate.

landy
01/21/2008, 09:25 PM
http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/IMG_0625.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/IMG_0626.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/IMG_0628.jpg

http://www.ndowded.com/reef/reeflowskimmer/IMG_0631.jpg


I have cleaned it twice between these pictures and the last. Each time the skimate gets a little darker, and is starting to smell quite putrid.

I want to thank everyone that has helped me with this skimmer, it turned out better than I anticipated.
I couldn’t have done it without you. http://www.getsmileyface.com/sm/drink/trink39.gif
landy

GuySmilie
01/21/2008, 09:29 PM
Nize job, bub.

Fishboy93
02/03/2008, 12:17 AM
awesome skimmer! Quick question, where did you buy the weatherstripping that makes the seal between the body/cup? Did you buy it online or find it locally?

landy
02/03/2008, 08:35 AM
it came from mcmaster.
part # 4869A3

landy

lvpd186
02/03/2008, 08:49 AM
Looks like the skimmer turned out to be a winner, great job!

landy
02/03/2008, 09:51 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11752998#post11752998 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lvpd186
Looks like the skimmer turned out to be a winner, great job!

I would have to agree:D

I haven’t takin any skimmate pictures lately, but this stuff is nasty. Something I didn’t mention before is the fact that this skimmer is fed down stream of a filter sock. When I change the sock, I have to turn the skimmer off. If I don’t, instant overflow. Infact this is the only thing that I have found that with overflow it.

Landy

Fishboy93
02/03/2008, 10:24 AM
Thank you that's perfect! I do have one more question though, what's the difference between the 4869A3 "silicone foam rubber
" and the 4869A2 "silicone rubber" is the A2 just like a higher density than the A3?

landy
02/03/2008, 10:29 AM
yep, density. not sure how much of a diffrence, but i bet it is a decent amount, as the silicone rubber probably wont have any air in it like the foam rubber.

landy

Fishboy93
02/03/2008, 10:33 AM
does the softer stuff still make a good seal though?

landy
02/03/2008, 10:38 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11753606#post11753606 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishboy93
does the softer stuff still make a good seal though?


i think it realy depends on your aplication. i wasnt looking for a real tight seal. i want water but not to many bubbles to go past the seal. if you are looking for something air tight, im not sure either of these sealers will do the trick. unless you have a perfect fit with a decent amount of compression on the edge trim.

landy

Fishboy93
02/03/2008, 10:42 AM
thanks for your help, I'm planning something similar to yours where it has to be semi-watertight but not 100%, and it looks like these will work perfect.

doa247
02/03/2008, 07:31 PM
you should totally post your cut sheets what a great build!

ReefRescue
05/16/2010, 11:03 AM
Nice build. If you had to do it again what would you do different?

landy
05/16/2010, 12:37 PM
Nice build. If you had to do it again what would you do different?

Back then: use 1/8" tubing, costs about half what the 1/4" was.
The gate valve on the nw suction side is unnecessary, and could be omitted.
I am limited on placement as you need a lot of overhead clearance to remove the cup due to the neck and reducer being part of this assembly. Hasnt mattered yet, but if I ever what to change locations, it will be a factor.

Two years later: Use a more efficient nw pump, that pulls more air. I think this body could handle a 30 % increase. About a month ago I tore down the skimmer for a complete cleaning for the FIRST time since it was new. The pump was not leaking yet, but I felt I was on borrowed time. So considering the dart nw went two years on one set of seals, and had very little drop off in performance, it has its advantages.

Landy

roc5288
05/16/2010, 12:53 PM
Great job... Maybe i missed it, But what is the total cost to build the skimmer? And besides the joy of doing something like this, does it work better then buying a prefab?

landy
05/16/2010, 01:14 PM
Great job... Maybe i missed it, But what is the total cost to build the skimmer? And besides the joy of doing something like this, does it work better then buying a prefab?

It came out to be about the same as buying a orca 250 back in the day.

As for working better, well it works better than some and not as well as other I imagine. In todays market, i think you could buy a better skimmer for less.

I will be downsizing my system here soon, as I will be moving. I have thought about modifying this skimmer, or buying one. I thing I might just buy a SRO XP-3000. Even modified my custom will be WAY overkill.

landy

H20ENG
05/18/2010, 04:46 PM
I agree with Landy. I quit making skimmers several years ago. You just cant touch the imports. Unless you are going real big, or are on a very tight budget.