View Full Version : SolaTubes for reef tanks
JohnL
09/12/2007, 09:14 PM
This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=10755118#post10755118
Reefski's
09/12/2007, 09:14 PM
it is 4'x8', the same size as the foot print of the tank. and i did not personally build it, just designed it. is that the same thing sort of?
hahnmeister
09/12/2007, 10:49 PM
Thats a big skylight.
token
09/12/2007, 11:14 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10755680#post10755680 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
Thats a big skylight. And a nicely sized tank!
erics3000
09/13/2007, 11:58 PM
Carl I tried www.anolux.com and it didn't work.
I have really loved this idea in the past. Your tanks look sweet guys. Just saving money every month is a big plus. I am building an 8 foot tank and really thinking about getting 2 of the tubes from home depot and run 2 MH and see how it works. I am just not sure how the other half will react when I tell her now I am cutting into our new roof. hahahahahh Great job guys..
Reefski's
09/14/2007, 04:41 AM
oops, my bad.
the web site is anomet.com and the product i used is anolux III http://anomet.com/cgi-bin/online/storepro.php which has the best reflective properties for us. ie, high reflectance in the UV range as well as the visible. one of the products had higher overall reflectance in the visible but almost no UV reflectance.
Julie over there is terrific and really helped me out. i got 4x8 sheets which they do not list on their website but are available and at a cost savings over the 2x4 sheets.
They are in Canada and so there was the added cost of shipping internationally. all told, <$2000 to do my whole skylight shaft and to have a couple sheets left over to build a reflector above the skylight and a reflective BBQ. i will save that much the first year.
of course that was not the whole expense of the skylight. framing and the skylight itself was $1,000 for a 4x8 single glazed opening skylight.
i found an American company who will remain nameless that sold what i believe is the same product for 3x's the price plus shipping. the product is manufactured in Germany i believe.
Eric, i encourage you to use the tubes but on an 8 foot tank you could use a lot more. too bad you didn't do it while the new roof was being installed. tell your wife it is not that big a deal to install the tubes later though. we do it all the time. just a little more $$$ now.
Carl
salty joe
09/14/2007, 05:26 AM
Carl,
The tank I have planned also will have a 4'x8' footprint. I had the roof trusses roughed in to accecpt two 4'x4' skylights. I guess that a single 8'x4' skylight is possible, but it would have a girder truss in the middle.
For now, I had the framers sheet the skylight holes and it is shingled like the rest of the roof. After the house is done and we get moved in, the reef tank happens. It's looking like the spring for the tank.
Anyway, the roof where the skylight comes through is a tiny bit steeper than 4/12. We used dimensional asphalt shingles. My skylight is not near the peak like yours which maybe is a flashing challenge.
In terms of a watertight flashing job, would you reccomend two 4'x4' skylights with 3" or 4" between them, or a single 8'x4'?
Joe
Reefski's
09/14/2007, 07:11 AM
either way is fine. a single skylight may be more expensive than two smaller ones, maybe not. flashing two is more work but if competently done neither should leak. we don't get call backs on skylights and have done 100's.
it great you framed it for a skylight. why didn't you just install it while they were framing?
my roof is 5:12 and composition shingles also.
my skylight at the top of the slope with the parapet just above makes it a bit more difficult to flash than one lower down. you should be fine.
do you plan to have the shaft come to the tank like i did or just to the ceiling? i think that makes a huge difference.
Carl
salty joe
09/14/2007, 09:15 PM
[QUOTE]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10764400#post10764400 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by carloskoi
[B] it great you framed it for a skylight. why didn't you just install it while they were framing?
I did not have the skylights. Still don't have them.
do you plan to have the shaft come to the tank like i did or just to the ceiling? i think that makes a huge difference.
I will line the shaft with specular aluminum to the tank. Earlier in this thread, someone took a skylight shaft and fabricated a series of smaller reflective shafts that filled one large skylight shaft. I think it was intended to even out the sunlight reaching the tank.
Reefski's
09/15/2007, 06:07 AM
seems like a waste of money making shafts in the shaft. the light is really cool the way it moves around the tank. seems much more natural as it passes overhead. and i will have room to work in the tank. hang lights, lift the lights, etc.
the more the light is reflected the more it is absorbed.
Carl
seastar12
09/22/2007, 08:04 PM
Wow, I can't wait to see how this tank turns out.
mr.wilson
09/23/2007, 03:55 PM
Carloskoi,
1) Are you supplementing the natural sunlight with artificial lighting? Does this cause a lot of shading, or do you have a reflector with a small footprint?
2) How long is the effective photo-period with just sunlight? Do you get at least 8 hours of full intensity?
3) Does the skylight heat the tank significantly, or create hot spots?
4) Does the skylight filter out all of the light between 310-360 nm (Uv A)? Or will you use a poly plastic filter for this purpose?
5) How do you plan on amending the light to 14,000 - 20,000 kelvin degrees? Will you use a blue filter above above the tank in the light well opening?
6) Have you taken LUX readings yet? Are you able to get at least 14,000 LUX in 12" of saltwater?
7) Will the light vary significantly in intensity and duration (photo-period) throughout the year in Venice? Will you get more shadowing when the sun is lower during "winter"?
8) What kind of corals do you plan on keeping? Shallow - medium - deep water species?
I don't mean to put you on the spot. Feel free to answer with a "I'm not sure yet" if you're still working on the details as you go.
salty joe
09/26/2007, 05:34 AM
One really nice thing about using the sun is there is no intensity dropoff due to distance. The light at the surface of the water is what you will get at the bottom of the tank no matter how deep it is, minus the effect of the water. With artificial light the intensity drops off in a hurry due to distance. If I remeber correctly, light obeys an inverse square law. For sure, you get a lot less intensity at 2 feet than 1 foot, and a lot less at 4 feet than 2 feet. This law can be ignored for the sun because it is so far away.
Adrianvh
09/26/2007, 05:39 AM
Great point Joe
Reefski's
09/26/2007, 06:09 AM
1) Are you supplementing the natural sunlight with artificial lighting? Does this cause a lot of shading, or do you have a reflector with a small footprint?
reflectors with small footprint, about 1.5 sw feet per reflector. i will measure light for a few months with no supplemental light so see how it goes before deciding how many and how much. i will have some though and moon lights for night viewing. i have 6 10 watt led's for moon lights.
2) How long is the effective photo-period with just sunlight? Do you get at least 8 hours of full intensity?
it ramps up during the day but i think at least right now it is at least 8 hours of very bright sun. it is not always high noon on the reef either. there is shading as the sun moves which i think is really cool and will give growth in a way the point source of MH won't do.
3) Does the skylight heat the tank significantly, or create hot spots?
i don't know yet. exhaust fans will be in the skylight shaft. the skylight is opening.
4) Does the skylight filter out all of the light between 310-360 nm (Uv A)? Or will you use a poly plastic filter for this purpose?
it is supposed to transmit about 50% of the UV, single glazed acrylic. transmits 95% light and the Anolux is 87% reflective and that includes the UV.
5) How do you plan on amending the light to 14,000 - 20,000 kelvin degrees? Will you use a blue filter above above the tank in the light well opening?
I don't, but i will use high Kelvin bulbs in my lighting.
6) Have you taken LUX readings yet? Are you able to get at least 14,000 LUX in 12" of saltwater?
there is no water in the tank yet. PAR readings are 1400-1600 during peak hours.
7) Will the light vary significantly in intensity and duration (photo-period) throughout the year in Venice? Will you get more shadowing when the sun is lower during "winter"?
of course and there are cloudy morning during part of the year although our temps are mild especially here near the beach and rainfall average is about 15 inches so many sunny days per year.
8) What kind of corals do you plan on keeping? Shallow - medium - deep water species?
shallow water species. a few LPS, no zoanthids or soft corals.
hahnmeister
09/26/2007, 11:56 AM
"PAR readings are 1400-1600 during peak hours."
Holy Crap thats overkill...
I have actual PAR calculations for various corals at depths in the wild, and thats very a very bright peak. Most corals are collected from the 10-15m range, where the PAR is in the 300 range. I asked Dana Riddle to send me the actual numbers, and he sent me pretty much a whole paper, graphs and all. Very cool stuff.
In Julian Sprung/C. Delbeek's Reef Aquarium Vol. 3, pages 444-449, there is going to be alot oof information you are going to want to see.
rogergolf66
09/26/2007, 03:34 PM
what about lumans any info there?
hahnmeister
09/26/2007, 04:11 PM
In Delbeek/Sprungs book there is. There are 'rough conversions' given. Of course, you cant convert Lux to PAR, but there are Lux values and PAR values given at various depths... and considering we cant match the light spectrum with regards to gradient anyways, the translation is pretty good.
Top of p449, Sprung says...
'The greatest variety of coral growth occurs at depths between 10-15 meters (33 and 50ft.) where light intensities are lower than 20,000 Lux (Dustan, 1982) or 300 microMol/m2/s (Harker, 1999b).'
So if we disregard the spectrum a bit (since or tanks cant mimic nature by a larger margin of error than PAR being coverted to Lux), it would seem that a PAR of 150 is equal to 10,000 Lux.
Reefski's
09/26/2007, 05:04 PM
maybe i mislead you all. that is the value out of the water. i have no water yet. i am sure it will attenuate considerably to a nice healthy amt.
i am very anxous to get water in the tank but the rest of the house construction has taken precedence for the moment.
i have the book and will reread that section.
Carl
Earl87gta
12/27/2007, 03:21 AM
Do you guys know the max effective distance the sola tubes can carry light I have my tank in the basement of a 2 story house so I would have to have a tube almost 28 feet to get the light to the tank . Do you think the light intensity would be too little by the time I got to the tank for this to be any good for me. I would love to find a way to save on the electric bill.
stevelkaneval
12/27/2007, 04:53 AM
what if you live in wi and the sun is further away? will this still work i was thinking about doing 2-3 in the house we are building for a really big tank.
stevelkaneval
12/27/2007, 04:54 AM
oops i meant in the winter months
Reefski's
12/27/2007, 06:39 AM
28 feet is a long way. how would you get it through the rooms above without it being obnoxious in the rooms above.
of course it will be less in the winter months.
Steve, when you build that new tank think of putting a skylight shaft over it not just a couple of tubes.
here is what i am working on.
<a href="http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l58/reefski/?action=view¤t=DSC03636-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l58/reefski/DSC03636-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l58/reefski/?action=view¤t=DSC03638-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l58/reefski/DSC03638-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l58/reefski/?action=view¤t=DSC05372.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l58/reefski/DSC05372.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Carl
conorwynne
12/27/2007, 08:06 AM
That's amazing looking. Well done. I imagine you wont need any supplimental lighting with that setup.
Aside from night time viewing that is.
Regards
Conor.
rogergolf66
12/27/2007, 10:22 AM
won't need night time veiwing either. Natural moon light will look great in there.
conorwynne
12/27/2007, 10:27 AM
I suppose you guys get little or no cloud cover then?
Cannot wait till its all up and running... holidays, get to work... :-)
Looks fab.
Conor.
rogergolf66
12/27/2007, 11:00 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11464130#post11464130 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by conorwynne
I suppose you guys get little or no cloud cover then?
Cannot wait till its all up and running... holidays, get to work... :-)
Looks fab.
Conor.
A lot less cloud cover then you get in Irland. I love your country the grass is so green. I went to golf there in 1998 it was great.
Earl87gta
12/27/2007, 02:38 PM
the house is gutted out above the tank so I have plenty of room to get it down to it Im adding a bath room up stairs and I can make the new plubing wall big enough to get the 10in tubes in to the basement.
JCTewks
12/27/2007, 03:14 PM
I think it would look great, but probably wouldn't suffice for primary lighting. Maybe the solatubes and some T5's would do the trick. The moonlight at night would definitely be something to see :D
JMBoehling
12/27/2007, 04:13 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11465741#post11465741 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Earl87gta
the house is gutted out above the tank so I have plenty of room to get it down to it Im adding a bath room up stairs and I can make the new plubing wall big enough to get the 10in tubes in to the basement.
I've got (02) 10" tubes on my reef. I have to supplement with (04) T5's.. Probably get away with (02) T5's but I could never get the color I liked with just (02) bulbs and the Natural Sunlight.
My tubes run approximately 14 ft from the roof to the water surface of my reef. I personally think the 10" tubes are too small. I would size up to 16" if you can make them work.. Also, you will loose some intensity from the light refracting off the tubes, so even bigger I.D. tubes would be better for your reef.
One thing I did on my install was to NOT install the domes on the roof, instead I used some flat sheet Plexiglass. The intensity of light was much better with the flat surface than the dome. I picked this idea up from a reefer in Australia that did this before me.
I personally like the natural light, and my SPS do as well. Good luck with your project. Can't wait to see some pics.
Later,
Jim
salty joe
12/27/2007, 06:00 PM
[QUOTE][i here is what i am working on.
Hey Carl, you have your roof on and that big skylight flashed by now, don't you?
How is the project coming along?
I'm interested because what I planned is very similar to what you are doing.
Joe
Reefski's
12/27/2007, 07:05 PM
you can follow the progress here.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=11467136#post11467136
not roofed yet. watertight but no shingles. the roofers house is only able to be worked on when other jobs permit.
water going in the tank tomorrow for hydrotest of plumbing of closed loop.
Carl
BrokenReefer
12/28/2007, 07:05 AM
OT - Nice shingles!! We don't see much Certainteed Presidential's up here in IL, I gotta see a pic when the roof is done. Possibly one in it's current state?? Lol!! Roofers pr0n is a well done roof, sad to say isn't it?
Anyhow, this is an interesting concept your working on with the anolux skylight shaft. Any concern for light overrun or possible reflection issues with the seating or other housing arrangements?
Reefski's
12/28/2007, 09:20 AM
i love the Presidential shingles. i will post some pictures when it is done.
the part that is open around the tank may get doors so i can have the reflective material all the way to the tank so no light spills out. i am not worried about the furniture. there won't be anything near the tank.
Carl
JMBoehling
03/01/2008, 12:43 PM
Couple updated shots:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/P2290023.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/P2290017.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/P2290016.jpg
Couple Top Down
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/P2290040.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/P2290038.jpg
Later,
Jim
conorwynne
03/02/2008, 06:26 AM
Hi,
How many watts do you run for lighting then?
What was the cloud cover like when you took those shots?
I see its cold in your area currently..:
http://www.accuweather.com/forecast.asp?partner=heraldsun&zipcode=23219
Conor.
JMBoehling
03/02/2008, 06:37 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11988110#post11988110 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by conorwynne
Hi,
How many watts do you run for lighting then?
What was the cloud cover like when you took those shots?
I see its cold in your area currently..:
http://www.accuweather.com/forecast.asp?partner=heraldsun&zipcode=23219
Conor.
216 watts of T5 (4 - 54 watt T5HO's)
200 watts of Halogen bulbs
That's 416 watts total plus the PAR from the skylights. I run the Halogen (not Halide) bulbs in the evening or raining days when I want to appearance of the natural sun shimmer in my reef.
Thanks,
Jim
conorwynne
03/02/2008, 06:55 AM
Cool, not that much then.
I had the lads from solatube in to see about fitting for my new reef. Alas, due to the design and placement of the house, my only option would to place the tank in the attic convertion.
Which is now my daughters room. I had a discus tank there for a few years, and it was a royal pain doing WC's.
If I do decide to go down this road, I would likely avoid supplemental lighting altogether, maybe just adding one actinic?
No funds as of yet as wife wants a new car. looking at a prius -- they are ugly though.
Later
Conor
mborn
03/03/2008, 10:45 AM
Tank's looking great!
JMBoehling
03/03/2008, 12:40 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11997550#post11997550 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mborn
Tank's looking great!
Thanks! Took me a few years to realize that water chemistry and water flow are equally as important as light spectrum in the aquarium.
This should be a fun summer with some really good growth. I hope other Skylight users will contiunue to post their pics to this thread.
Later,
Jim
JMBoehling
05/31/2008, 09:31 AM
Update:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/P5290068.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/P5290064.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/P5290062.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/P5270058.jpg
Things continue to grow under the tubes. Sun is back to a good angle and really lighting up my reef again :)
Later,
Jim
conorwynne
05/31/2008, 12:56 PM
Fabulous. More pics please.
What fish do you have? I cannot see any.
JMBoehling
05/31/2008, 01:10 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12651379#post12651379 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by conorwynne
Fabulous. More pics please.
What fish do you have? I cannot see any.
Thanks:D
Fish:
Purple Tang
Yellow Tang
Lopezi Tang
Marine Beta
Mandarin Goby
Pair Perculas Clowns (Lay eggs every 20 days or so.. Female is 18 years old)
Algae Blenny
(03) Green Chromis
Thats about it...
Jim
JMBoehling
05/31/2008, 01:19 PM
You can find more pics here :)
http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/?sc=1&multi=1&addtype=local&media=image
Thanks,
Jim
hahnmeister
06/02/2008, 07:46 PM
Two things you might want to consider, as I know I am for my future 'sunroom' build...
You will get loads of light, even in more northern latitudes, because even thought the sun is a little weaker, the water depth is also alot less for our tanks compared to nature. A 14-16" diameter sola-tube can easily match the output of a 400 watt halide in that case at noon... even here in WI. Now, when in doubt, always go larger, for sure.... you can always restrict the light that comes in, but you cant add more later as easily.
As for color, keep in mind that a very good reason to 'overshoot' your skylighting needs is that then you have some play as far as adding in color filters to filter & 'tint' parts of the light. It can be as simple as placing a piece of blue tinted acrylic or film in the skylight to filter some of the light coming through to bring back the blues. A checkerboard pattern of blue film in the skylight or above the tank somewhere should be all you need, and any light lost from all that 'filtering' of the light would be made up for by the fact that you have so much more of it to go around.
Of course, for 'after hours', some backup lights are an idea. I plan on a 4'x4' (or two skylights that add up to 65"x65"... havent decided yet) light shaft over a 6'x6' tank, with about 24x 80watt T5s as backup/supplimental lighting... 1/3 running blues and 1/3 running actinics so I can suppliment the daylight in weaker months, and 1/3 running aquablues/6500Ks so I can have a full spectrum at night. Chances are, I wont even need these many anyways... I know of 480g tanks (I plan on 540g) which are running on only 20x80 watt T5s, with SPS top to bottom.
Reefski's
06/02/2008, 09:18 PM
Jim:
have you ever measured your light with a PAR or Lux meter?
Hanmeister- if you have 24x80 watt tubes over your tank won't that block much of your sunlight from reaching the tank?
on my tank i don't need any supplement light, at least for most of the year. i don't know about winter yet. i plan to have some supplemental halides on a light rail that can be moved in or out of the closet by the tank. mostly in but available when needed or wanted.
i think a solar tube gives a point source type of light much like a halide. i like the way the sun bounces down the sahft in my tank lighting from more angles that halides or a tube.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l58/reefski/DSC07432-1.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l58/reefski/DSC07430.jpg
Carl
hahnmeister
06/02/2008, 10:07 PM
Those are some wicked high light levels. 200 is more like it for a tank that size (center, bottom)... of course, that 1500+ you get is for how long? If thats just the daily peak for a half hour or something, it isnt so bad. Still, be careful with the corals... they may not be able to take it at that intensity until acclimated, even if only for a little bit, until they build up their pigments.
Reefski's
06/02/2008, 10:23 PM
it has these high levels for 2-3 hours over the day as the sun moves around it will be on brighter at various times over the day. i have not had any bleaching but rather some browning if anything which is interesting. no blue lighting to make the colors more intense. so it may just be my perception of the colors being browner than the reality of it.
i have some eggcrate over part of the tank where i will soon be putting some lower light LPS corals.
i am still in the cycling phase with hair algae and only a few corals, which are growing. not enough herbivores. just 3 urchins and a lawmower blenny. if i could catch a couple of the tangs in the other tank i would put them in.
nitrates <2ppm and phosphates are not measureable with Hanna
C200 colorimeter.
i believe sunlight can provide all you need for coral growth and health.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l58/reefski/sandfunnel.jpg
Carl
hahnmeister
06/02/2008, 10:37 PM
2-3 hours per day... wow. I suppose, you are in Cali after all. In Hawaii, the levels peaks at about 2200 at noon at the surface, so you arent going to be that much lower than that... most likely in the 1800s at noon. You really might have too much light though... could explain the browning.
Maybe in your case, all the aluminum on the walls could have been just walls that were painted blue...lol. But really, that is still alot of light. At 15m of depth on Hawaii (most corals get collected in the 5-25m range, few above 10m for that matter... most from the 15m range). At 15 meters of depth, the noon peak is really only about 1100... and Hawaii has some of the clearest waters in the world (in case you were thinking that Hawaii might not get as much light as say... the north end of the Barrier reef or the other Pac Islands). So you could be overdoing it.... esp considering those are your light levels at the SAND!
Reefski's
06/02/2008, 10:48 PM
i was just rereading the section in Eric Borneman's Aquarium Corals again about light and you are right about the attenuation at depth. i think he said 50% of surface values at 15 meters.
it is almost the peak of summer here.
why would they get browner from more light?
some redundency of photos but here is what Eric thought about the light levels.
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic85132-9-1.aspx
Carl
salty joe
06/06/2008, 06:34 AM
I plan on using 2 48"x48" skylights over an 85"x48" display. I am thinking of using a triple pane, tempered low iron glass design. (It gets real cold in NE Oh) A local glass company can fabricate the window part and I can adhere that to a flashed curb. The light shaft will be lined with specular aluminum, pretty much like you've done Carl. I was apprehensive about the appearance of light bouncing all over the place-the fact that you like it makes me feel better. Like you hahnmeister, I hope to have more light than I need. I thought maybe get a PAR reading in the winter and if that is intense enough, start shading as summer approaches.
Any input or suggestions would be much appreciated.
When the lanscaping is done, I can finally pull the trigger on this project. It has been a long time coming and I am close to starting.
Joe
Reefski's
06/06/2008, 03:30 PM
good luck Joe. i think you will be very happy with the setup.
i love the way the light moves around the tank. and the glitter lines are really cool.
i am very happy i did it this way. and i will save a ton of $$$ over the years.
i will likely add some lights on a track that the be pushed into the adjacent closet when not needed which should be most of the year. only slid out for evening viewing.
i am getting great growth of the few corals i have in the tank.
Carl
JMBoehling
06/11/2008, 11:59 AM
Sun is really hammering my reef right now, so I took a video. I guess a video is worth a thousand words :)
http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/?action=view¤t=P6100146.flv
Later,
Jim
sabbath
06/11/2008, 12:43 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12725388#post12725388 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JMBoehling
Sun is really hammering my reef right now, so I took a video. I guess a video is worth a thousand words :)
http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/?action=view¤t=P6100146.flv
Later,
Jim
Very nice! I really like that it still has a shimmer to it.
mborn
06/11/2008, 03:03 PM
Outstanding!
74oldsguy
06/15/2008, 12:17 PM
Thats innovative
wizsmaster
07/13/2008, 10:41 PM
great thread. I'm looking into the solar tubes.
hahnmeister
07/14/2008, 02:49 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12691214#post12691214 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by salty joe
I plan on using 2 48"x48" skylights over an 85"x48" display. I am thinking of using a triple pane, tempered low iron glass design. (It gets real cold in NE Oh) A local glass company can fabricate the window part and I can adhere that to a flashed curb. The light shaft will be lined with specular aluminum, pretty much like you've done Carl. I was apprehensive about the appearance of light bouncing all over the place-the fact that you like it makes me feel better. Like you hahnmeister, I hope to have more light than I need. I thought maybe get a PAR reading in the winter and if that is intense enough, start shading as summer approaches.
Any input or suggestions would be much appreciated.
When the lanscaping is done, I can finally pull the trigger on this project. It has been a long time coming and I am close to starting.
Joe
I really dont think you need to be so concerned with the Low Iron glass aspect and other things like that. Im just going with regular non-LoE Velux skylights. And, you should have more light than you need, yes. While the glass might tint the light slightly by taking a bit out of some spectrums, its hardly the same reasoning as using Low Iron for the tank itself. The glass in a skylight is thinner, and sure, even though it might block 3-6% of the light coming in, you still have a full spectrum and plenty of it to go around. I bet you could even keep the LoE and still be fine (halides use LoE).
Since you will have more than enough to go around in that tank, I would suggest using tinted lenses for blue and purple to make the tank not as 'yellow'. On lightbulbs, its a waste of their efficiency/output, but with sunlight... those things just dont apply. If you cover half your available 'sunspace' with blue and purple 'film' (even just colored acrylic) you can eliminate the need for supplimental T5s all together, and still have plenty of intensity to go around. Remember, even though you are so much further north than where the corals come from (a relative light loss of 30-50% for us in winter compared to the noon sun in the tropics), we are also keeping these corals at a fraction of the water depth that they come from, so its still easy to have 'too much' where you are. A $300 par meter is your best friend for this.
8BALL_99
07/19/2008, 10:22 PM
Great thread. Funny I saw SoloTubes on DIY channel, They were installing one in a bathroom.. My first thought was hey I wonder if a couple of those would light my tank.. I have a question for you guys with Tubes. I'm fixing to replace my current tank with a 72"x36"x25" I'm trying to decide between a standard skylight or a couple of 21" Solatubes. Above my fish room has a pretty flat roof and the Attic between the ceiling and roof is only about 2'-3' or so. The roof gets sun all day. If I did a sky light, length wise it would run North-South not sure if it matters. I was thinking about 2 21" Tubes but I'm not sure if that would be enough. About how big of an area do these 21" tubes light up? I would bring them down to about 20" above the tank.
hahnmeister
07/20/2008, 02:01 AM
A 14" sola tube would provide more light than a 400 watt halide when the sun is at a peak in your area. A 20-22"... whoah. I think you are in the 1000 watt range there.
Sola tubes vs. skylights? It comes down to cost here. Once you get into 3 or more sola tubes, you have often gone over the cost of what it would be to just put in one large skylight. The concern with skylights is that they dont control the light as well... the light can enter and end up only lighting half the tank or something because its one large shaft.
I came up with the solution for this a long time ago (earlier in the thread), and it has been tried and proven (you can see the '700g or how I blew my daughter's inheritance' thread in the large tank forum which uses this exact idea). You simply line the shaft with aluminum like the tube, and then you make a gridwork, like very large and tall eggcrate, but out of aluminum sheets... like 2-4 of them for a 4-5' long skylight. This way, the skylight is broken up into smaller 'shafts' like the solatubes and the light will be even across the tank. Now you dont end up with one large beam that lights up half the tank and leaves the other half in the dark. If you do this, Sola tubes and Skylights are the same thing, only you might stand to get more bang for the buck from the skylight. A 2'x4' skylight is about 7.5 times the light compared to a 14" sola tube. Sola tubes are usually $150-200 for each one (plus the fitting of each seperate unit), where a large skylight is one opening (less leak potential as well) and you can often get the whole thing for $180-250. Velux can sell you a non-LoE laminate glass skylight for the same price as their regular ones too, so no upcharge or concern there. To vent the tank in summer, you can get a venting skylight as well and really keep it cool. About 75% of the electricity from even a halide or T5 goes right to heat, so if you go 'sola', you are eliminating 75% of the heat from/around the tank at the same lighting levels. This in itself is worth it... oh, and a huge chunk out of bulb replacement costs.
Reefski's
07/20/2008, 07:28 AM
hi, it's the guy that spent, not blew, his daughters inheritance.
one correction-
the shaft of my skylight is only lined with the aluminum. it is not broken up into separate smaller shafts. if you look at one of the early pictures in the thread it is a bit confusing with all the reflections just where the walls are. the house of mirrors effect.
the light does move around the tank during the day which is more natural than the point source of most aquarium lights. it may be 1500 PAR at one end of the tank and only 200 at the other end. during mis day for a few hours most of the tank is lit. there is enough scatter and light reflected off the sand too to illuminate the rest of the tank. light bounces off the sides of the shaft and i imagine it to be more like the ocean. corals are shaded throughout the day as the sun moves too! in the tropics there is a lot of variation in lighting. it may be cloudy and storm for many days at a time. rough seas will decrease the light. and then bam, the sun comes out. why don't the corals bleach with this sudden burst of light?
only during the peak couple months of summer will it come straight down the shaft like it is now.
winter willl be the real test. for now everything is growing and very happy.
even yesterday when i didn't see the sun until mid afternoon with the marine layer here PAR levels were about 100-300 most of the day and then went up in the afternoon.
http://anomet.com/cgi-bin/online/storepro.php
i used the anolux III
it does really work. now if i can just get rid of the algae...
my build thread.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1154644&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
Carl
8BALL_99
07/20/2008, 07:36 AM
Thanks for the info. I did see the 700 gallon build info in this thread. I also seen his build in the large tank forum. Very cool. But his is alot different then what I'd have. If I got a skylight I was looking at standard sized one.. From looking around online that would probably be a 22x46. I did read about the non-LoE glass in the thread aslo. My two options would be a 22x46 non-LoE skylight vs two 21" Solatubes.
If the Solatubes would provide the same light or pretty close I think they would be easier. I also like the idea of the Tube because I can stick a peaice of 1/8 Acrylic over the outlet above the tank and keep dust, moisture and whatever else out of the shaft and off the reflective surface. Some thing I dont think could be done with the skylight shaft. The venting doesnt matter to me. This would be in an equipment room that already has its on ventilation and AC.
I guess my biggest concern is that the tube will light up a couple of 21" circules of my 72"x36" foot print. I plan on adding T5s with several blue bulbs do help offset the Yellow sunlight. But I'd like to get most of the Punch the corals need from the sun. I'm trying to replace 3x250Mh Really 2x250s and 1x400 mh cause thats how the tank use to be and I'm really considering go back since things grew better. The ONLY reason I haven't is concerns with the utility bill lol I run 7 Mhs lights over my current tanks so I'd love to get rid of a few bulbs.. Not just for power, but 7 mh bulbs hurts every year.
8BALL_99
07/20/2008, 07:47 AM
Reefski, cross post lol Thanks for the update. Yeah I'm looking at a par meter. I've already decided that will be a must for this kind of lighting. Atleast till I get a year under my belt and learn what kind of levels I get during what months.
What you talked about does concern me a little with a skylight. I'm sure it looks cool, But I'd like to light up most of the tank for atleast 6-7 Hours. Thats one thing I thing the solatube Might have over a flat skylight. I thought though since I had a semi flat roof and the narrow part of the skylight would run east to west long end would be north to south, that would might help with the issue as the sun moves.
Lol if this didn't involve cutting holes in the roof I wouldnt' be so worried about getting it right the first time.
Reefski's
07/21/2008, 03:02 PM
most of the tank is lit up for 6-7 hours right now.
the PAR meter is very helpful to all reefers. reefers keeping track of their halides could also benefit. adjust light height to match intensity after a bulb change and then slowly lower to the right height.
just find a competent roofer and you won't have to worry about holes in the roof. that's my job. worry! i hate the rain. i awaken with the least little drip of rain and worry. i also watch the weather a lot. not so much this time of year as it rarely rains here until nov.
Carl
8BALL_99
07/21/2008, 04:55 PM
I've wanted a par meter for awhile. I think they would pay for them selfs pretty quick.. I'm sure I've changed my Bulbs before it was needed. Just that alone makes them worth it.
I was going to install either option myself. Doesnt seem to hard. But I dont want to cut the holes for the tubes just to have to repair them to install a skylight a month later. I might check on what a larger skylight would cost. But my guess is special orders get $$$ quick. I wouldnt mind having one that was around 64"x30 or so. That way it would cover more of the tank. I dont know I just can't decide what I should do. I've still got a few weeks to figure it out though.
hahnmeister
07/21/2008, 06:07 PM
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l58/reefski/DSC03638-1.jpg
Dang, I think I see what you mean now. It sure fooled me... I suppose above ^^^, is not a grid.
Right on with the PAR meter... after getting mine, it paid for itself within a few months. The Ocean Optics Spectrometer... well... that takes a bit longer...lol.
IridescentLily
07/22/2008, 04:27 AM
Oh man, thank God I saw this thread. This rocks. You guys are geniuses. I wonder if most people who catch this thread think "why haven't I thought of this before" regarding the Solatubes.
My mom's going to wonder why i'm visiting her (and her kooky ideas about a room redesign) more often.
I'll just tell her that I thought about it and realized that one can never have enough planning when re-doing a room with a skylight.
heh heh
I'm tagging along with this thread.
8BALL_99
07/22/2008, 09:46 AM
After looking at Velux skylights on their sight, insted of local dealers I see they make some larger standard sizes. I'm also a little worried about if I can get 21" Tubes for a pitched roof. Most of the ones I've seen online are for Flat roofs.. My roof has a very gentle pitch over my tank. But its not flat.. So the 21" Tube might be out. If thats the case then a 30"x50 Velux skylight could be my best option.. There is a dealer right down the road from my office so I'm going to go talk to them today to figure out my options!
Reefski's
07/22/2008, 11:42 AM
Velux slylights need a special Velux made curb apparatus to pitch the skylight. do you know what the pitch of your roof is?
i have heard that there may be a skylight that does not require that. tell them what your pitch is and that you want as much light as possible. i would not get a tinted one. we have a tinted acrylic one at my wifes office and just for fun i measured the light coming through with the par meter and it was less than half of the clear one.
also non low e glass.
hahnmeister
07/22/2008, 02:12 PM
Home Depots can order the Velux for you. If they act stupid, just call the number on their booklet/catalog for them...lol. No serious, thats how I found out... just call them up, and then they will just ship to HD (cheaper than any other place you can get them). Velux can make ANYTHING, but it wont be listed in their catalog. They quoted me the same cost for a 'non LoE' as their regular skylight, and you can get the curb mount of whatever you need.
For the project in Chicago, we used three FS 112 skylights to cover about 6'x6'. We would have used two and used a VS (venting) unit for one, but they dont make a VS112... so instead we added a power vent. I would suggest some sort of light blocking control as well though in case you have too much.
I know a guy in AZ who ended up removing his solatubes from over the tank because they were too bright for the corals... I suppose he didnt consider merely filtering it, but yes, you can have too much with these things.
MAreefer
07/22/2008, 06:05 PM
I have been thinking about doing something like this for the longest time .... hopefully I get the courage too soon
JMBoehling
07/22/2008, 06:09 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13001817#post13001817 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MAreefer
I have been thinking about doing something like this for the longest time .... hopefully I get the courage too soon
Jump in.. the water is warm :D
Later,
Jim
texreefer
07/23/2008, 11:31 AM
I just ordered and 18" sun tunnel for my 3' x 4' reef.. it will be suplemented by 6-54w T5s. how high above the water do you guys have your tubes?
JMBoehling
07/23/2008, 04:02 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13006685#post13006685 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by texreefer
I just ordered and 18" sun tunnel for my 3' x 4' reef.. it will be suplemented by 6-54w T5s. how high above the water do you guys have your tubes?
I've got mine 2 ft above the tank. Keep us posted on how things turn out. Welcome to the NSC (Natural Sunlight Club):cool:
NaClH20NMYVEIN
07/23/2008, 05:51 PM
I know a guy in AZ who ended up removing his solatubes from over the tank because they were too bright for the corals... I suppose he didnt consider merely filtering it, but yes, you can have too much with these things. [/B][/QUOTE]
Is he a RC'er? I would like to speak with him as I'm in AZ also and strongly thinking about using 3 solar tubes on my 540 that is in the building stage. How does the pitch of the roof factor in? My roof is pretty steep, is that a downfall?
salty joe
07/23/2008, 05:59 PM
OK hahnmeister, good point on the glass. Thanks. Velux can make the bottom pane of the skylight laminated with polycarbonate (or some other tough material). The glass is tempered 1/8" thick, I think, so that's 1/4" of glass for the sun to penetrate, plus the polycarbonate. I know the laminated pane cuts down on UV, not sure what it does to PAR. Without the laminated bottom pane, a major hailstorm or a tree branch could get ugly.
That clear film for windows that is stretched tight with a hair dryer might work for the third pane. With 32 sq.' of skylight, the heat loss is bound to be significant.
hahnmeister
07/23/2008, 06:01 PM
Nah, I met him at a conference... the Foster & Smith one last year. I dont think he considered just using shades to filter the light a little. I dont believe that there is any reason why it wouldnt work, or why pitch of your roof would factor in... as long as you can get a southern facing... thats the most important thing.
8BALL_99
07/23/2008, 06:02 PM
That would depend on the way your house/roof faces.. Would the tubes be in the shade anytime? For the tubes I dont think pitch matters as much since the tube will sit level anyway inless you get a low profile tube.. They look like they sit at what ever pitch your roof is.
To much light would be a very easy fix,, and good problem to have.. Its easy enough to add some tinted acrylic or even just some window screen to block some light during the summer months. If you have just enough in the summer you probably wont have enough in the winter..
sabbath
07/23/2008, 06:53 PM
. [/B][/QUOTE]
How does the pitch of the roof factor in? My roof is pretty steep, is that a downfall? [/B][/QUOTE]
I would think that a stronger pitch would give it better light output.
8BALL_99
07/23/2008, 10:25 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13009326#post13009326 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
Nah, I met him at a conference... the Foster & Smith one last year. I dont think he considered just using shades to filter the light a little. I dont believe that there is any reason why it wouldnt work, or why pitch of your roof would factor in... as long as you can get a southern facing... thats the most important thing.
Mine would be on the North side of my house but the roof is pretty flat and gets sun all day. Do you think that would cause any problems? Or did you just mean cause of the pitch of his roof he would want it southern facing?
JCTewks
07/23/2008, 10:44 PM
as long as it gets full sun year round you'll be fine...just don't get the kit that matches it ti the pitch of your roof...unless you flip the thing around so that it is pointing south!
8BALL_99
07/24/2008, 09:48 AM
I was told I couldn't get Non LoE glass on a Velux skylight. How big of a deal is that? The dealer called Velux and asked.. I was standing there when he did. I just called and they told me they couldn't do it with out the LoE coating but they could do it without the Argon insulation. He said the Argon is what blocks most of the Uv and alot of the light.. But I'm guessing no insulation would be bad lol
8BALL_99
07/24/2008, 09:49 AM
Ya my first Double post:rollface:
Reefski's
07/24/2008, 10:08 AM
what are you lining the shaft with to reflect the light to the tank?
clear non low e glass is the way to go if you are using the Velux skylight. my research showed better light transmission with acrylic skylights.
Carl
8BALL_99
07/24/2008, 10:59 AM
The only thing they said I could get is LoE glass without the argon between the glass. This would take 6 weeks. The acrylic skylights seem to be made pretty cheap. I dont want this thing leaking. Plus they look like whats on top of RVs lol
Reefski's
07/24/2008, 11:25 AM
mine doesn't leak and neither do any of the other seven on my house or any of the many we have installed. not a one. i have no snow in my neighborhood though.
there are different grades of plastic used in skylights. some only last a few years before they start to crack.
i get mine from lane-aire.com that uses a better grade than you can get a HD.
what is going on the walls of the shaft?
i don't think they are ugly.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l58/reefski/solar1.jpg
8BALL_99
07/24/2008, 12:30 PM
Well I figured I'd line it same as you did yours. But I haven't really got into that yet since I dont have a skylight. So I'm not even sure of the size yet.. The attic space between the roof is only a couple of feet so the light doesnt have far to go. I figured it would be better to get a skylight a little smaller then the tank and have the shaft flare out. Not much. I figured a skylight around 22x56" to 68" would be good. My light shaft will be a little smaller then the tank cause I want my canopy to lift like it does now.. So when I raise the canopy it will over lap the light shaft. Hope that makes since..My red house links to pictures of my current tank. Again my new tank will be 72"36"25" Its already getting built and I should have it in about a month from miracles
I'm also scared of the Acrylic turning yellow or getting that frosted look. I guess it could just be the Acrylic. But every older one I've seen always looked bad. I know I've seen Acrylic tanks that have been left outside for a couple of years and they are far from clear
hahnmeister
07/24/2008, 01:42 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13012989#post13012989 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 8BALL_99
I was told I couldn't get Non LoE glass on a Velux skylight. How big of a deal is that? The dealer called Velux and asked.. I was standing there when he did. I just called and they told me they couldn't do it with out the LoE coating but they could do it without the Argon insulation. He said the Argon is what blocks most of the Uv and alot of the light.. But I'm guessing no insulation would be bad lol
Something isnt right... unless they have changed their supply in the past 2 years, maybe the person on the Velux end didnt know what they were talking about? There are several reasons why a person might want to skip the LoE coating besides a reef tank (like if you wanted a solarium or greenhouse... LoE absorbs portions of IR as well). I would call on my own and try to talk with someone.
That argument about the Argon blocking UV is also completely false, and ironic because its the exact opposite. Argon is a conductive insulator that goes in between the sheets of glass... has nothing to do with blocking UV or any light. Many phosphor based bulbs, including UV bulbs, are in fact filled with argon. An Argon Laser in fact, is used to generate UV, and Argon is being looked at for the next generation of microchips in the deep UV lithography process. Based on that info, I think you just got the wrong person on the Velux side... I would try again. If you get a negative response again, tell them you know someone who got them w/o LoE. I can try them tomorrow myself if you like... to get to the bottom of this mess.
As long as you still have the insulating glass, the fact that it may or may not have argon is minor. If anything, yes, not having LoE could be considering it a 'lesser window' in some cases, but your tank itself is being used as a thermal battery in that respect (as is the idea behing a solarium or other 'green solar spaces'). The water, soil, plants, or even ceramic tile and brick absorb the heat and act as the LoE inside the home anyways. Many of those prarie style homes, or ones with south facing solariums, are designed to work without LoE glass because the whole idea is to let the IR and UV through... and the house itself acts like the LoE, or even better. Those homes that use a large central sunroom, a brick wall, and ceramic tile floors to trap the heat would not function as normal with LoE panels.
8BALL_99
07/24/2008, 03:09 PM
I hope that's the case. Cause right now I'm very interested in either a FS 108 or a FS 112. If I could get it with out the LoE coating it would be a done deal. I might try to call them again in just a little while and see if I get a different person on the phone. As far as the Argon goes.. I figured if it didn't effect the light that much it would be good to have..I thought it was only for insulation. But the way the guy talked it was what blocked the UV.. My local Dealers were no help at all. One didnt' even have any paper work on them. He just asked which one I wanted. Ugh Nither place installed them either.. So even if I wanted to have it installed I couldn't go through the dealer..
Reefski's
07/24/2008, 03:32 PM
how about some pix?
8BALL_99
07/24/2008, 07:34 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13015135#post13015135 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reefski's
how about some pix?
Of what? I dont have my new tank yet :(
Good news. Well I guess I shouldn't say its good news till its done.. But I called them back and got a different person this time. Told them the Deal and what I wanted. After a few mins of her looking she said yeah we can do that.. You want Tempered glass clear glass with out the LoE coating right. I asked if she had a product code or something I could tell the next person I have to talk to when I go to homedepot to order.. She gave me the number 0048 and said I could get either FS 108 or 112 that way.. So we shall see what Homedepot says this time lol.
JCTewks
07/24/2008, 10:37 PM
that sounds great!! good to hear that the WHOLE company isn;t idiots :D
hahnmeister
07/24/2008, 10:48 PM
Good deal... told ya! :smokin:
Yeah, if you get all the product codes from Velux, then HD can just type it up after they get a quote on the cost because its not in their regular catalog.
Glad to hear this time around you got a positive response... it almost makes me wonder if the 'other guy' you saw wasnt calling his own connection/distributor rather than Velux directly.
Sorry, but most places, not even HD, will put them in for you. Skylights often require some structural reworking, and in many areas this requires a contractor's liscence and pulling a permit. This is beyond the scope of the normal installation program, not to mention the insurance that the installers have at HD. A general contractor is the best bet. OR, they also sell those QFS brand ones that are designed with a huge flange around them to be DIY-friendly and leak-proof (I think the regular ones are easy enough, but I know, Im not everyone).
solRNY
07/25/2008, 09:48 AM
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l58/reefski/solar1.jpg [/B]
Nice setup, nice solar panels, who the manufacturer?
Reefski's
07/25/2008, 10:53 AM
Sharp, 216 watt panels, 46 of them.
salty joe
07/26/2008, 06:12 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13020318#post13020318 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reefski's
Sharp, 216 watt panels, 46 of them.
Did your electirc bill go down by very much?
Reefski's
07/26/2008, 06:40 AM
my system is new and my house is much larger now. i haven't even gotten the first bill and have nothing to compare to because of the new house. of course it will save us a ton of money though. yesterday the system made 60 Kw that i did not have to buy from DWP and also saved putting CO2 into the atmosphere.
even if it takes ten years to pay for itself after that it is FREE and i think the breakeven point will be much sooner. in ten years the price of electricity will be much more than it is today thereby shortening the breakeven point.
check out www.pickensplan.com
he seems to be doing something positive for the planet and the US as well. i wish i had money to invest.
hahnmeister
07/26/2008, 12:27 PM
60kW??? Do you mean 60 kwh?
texreefer
07/26/2008, 03:14 PM
I did it here are a few shots of my solar tube.. my tank is currently torn down due to a seam leak but is being rebuilt but you can get the idea
this is the light over the tank
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o258/itili/DSC01641.jpg
this is the tank. it lights the entire tank much better than this pic shows
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o258/itili/DSC01639.jpg
this is the dome on the roof
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o258/itili/DSC01638.jpg
This thing is wayyyy brighter than my two 250w MH ever were!
Reefski's
07/26/2008, 04:15 PM
yes, 60 Kwh.
way to go texreefer.
8BALL_99
07/26/2008, 04:34 PM
texreefer, Wow that looks great. Looks Very bright to me!
Well My skylight is ordered! I went yesterday and got the thing ordered. I ended up getting a 308 without LoE glass. Its around 30"x56" If I remember right.. Will take about a month or so before It comes in though :(
mhurley
07/28/2008, 06:06 AM
unstuck
wizsmaster
07/31/2008, 10:17 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13027899#post13027899 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by texreefer
I did it here are a few shots of my solar tube.. my tank is currently torn down due to a seam leak but is being rebuilt but you can get the idea
this is the light over the tank
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o258/itili/DSC01641.jpg
this is the tank. it lights the entire tank much better than this pic shows
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o258/itili/DSC01639.jpg
this is the dome on the roof
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o258/itili/DSC01638.jpg
This thing is wayyyy brighter than my two 250w MH ever were!
wow. nice bright.
What brand did you end up going with? This doesn't look like the SOLATUBE company, is it?
wizsmaster
07/31/2008, 10:18 AM
I've been in contact with the guys over @ SOLATUBE, and have gotten some information:
Some specs on our dome and the spectrum of light transmitted:
UV Absorbing Acrylic – 99.97%
– 100% of UVB (280 to 315 nm) and UVC (100 to 280 nm) blocked
– >95%of UVA (315 to 400 nm) blocked
– Plant growth at 400 to 1000 nm
wizsmaster
07/31/2008, 10:24 AM
They have sent me the following picture of a project they have completed.
http://www.swfmas.com/files/Bar.jpg
wizsmaster
07/31/2008, 10:26 AM
The following link is to a PDF I was sent by SOLATUBE,
The attached information is a good way to measure equivalencies in lumen output values. They are listed by size and geographic area on the attached chart. I’ve also attached the actual IES file which can be used in any standard lighting simulation program. The lumen output values just need to be adjusted for the geographic location and size.
http://www.swfmas.com/files/Solatube.pdf
GUILLO1
08/20/2008, 05:06 PM
just trying to keep this thread alive, I'm very interested on using solatubes for my new tank. Anyone have more info on the pros and cons?
emissary43
08/23/2008, 06:48 PM
hey wizsmaster how did you go about doing the back wall of the aquarium? foam/rock/resin mixed with sand or did you try something else?
wizsmaster
08/23/2008, 09:49 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13214516#post13214516 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by emissary43
hey wizsmaster how did you go about doing the back wall of the aquarium? foam/rock/resin mixed with sand or did you try something else?
Emissary,
If you're talking about the pictures above with the Solar Light, that was "texreefer"'s tank. I have not done a fake back tank yet ...
Take care,
marco
GUILLO1
08/23/2008, 10:04 PM
looks like I just took the solar tubes plunge. Today I drilled 3 14" holes for my new 250 plus in-wall built im planning. I bought some tubes from Home Depot from a brand called ODL, not sure how good they are so we will see.
emissary43
08/24/2008, 01:00 AM
oh yeah :) I see now that was a quote, I should have gone back to page 4 to check the posters name the first time I saw the photo same question passed on to texreefer
JCTewks
08/24/2008, 10:21 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13036610#post13036610 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mhurley
unstuck
and another "lost" thread from my subscriptions :mad2:
H20ENG
08/26/2008, 11:00 PM
Jeff,
I rarely get any update emails until I log in again. My login times out fairly quickly too, an hour maybe. Never used to be that way years ago, but the last year or so.
JMBoehling
08/27/2008, 05:22 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13215568#post13215568 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GUILLO1
looks like I just took the solar tubes plunge. Today I drilled 3 14" holes for my new 250 plus in-wall built im planning. I bought some tubes from Home Depot from a brand called ODL, not sure how good they are so we will see.
They work. That's what I installed over three years ago. The only thing I ended up doing was removed the Dome and replaced it with flat Plexiglass sheets. You get more intense light without the domes.
Jim
JCTewks
08/27/2008, 10:46 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13236441#post13236441 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
Jeff,
I rarely get any update emails until I log in again. My login times out fairly quickly too, an hour maybe. Never used to be that way years ago, but the last year or so.
Well, I log in nightly and get LOTS of emails about subscribed threads...I just seem to have "lost" subscriptions to several threads in the "unsticking" process over the last few months :D I've posted in the "feedback and questions" forum and have not gotten an answer as to WHY this keeps happening....I think that the internet doesn't like me sometimes :lol::lol:
alpha0r
08/28/2008, 10:21 PM
Has anyone used a PAR meter on one of these things? I would love to know what kind of reading they get.
JMBoehling
08/29/2008, 06:07 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13250380#post13250380 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by alpha0r
Has anyone used a PAR meter on one of these things? I would love to know what kind of reading they get.
Don't own one.. Maybe other guys and gals will chime in.
:cool:
Jim
Opsanus tau
08/30/2008, 09:24 AM
I have a 21" tubular skylight (Sun-Dome of Florida) doesn't "yellow" like Sola tubes do over time(sending yellow light into your tank after a couple years).
I also have a PAR /Quantum Meter and it changes every minuet of the day, just like in nature...so what are you asking,..what's is the average par?,min+max?....they don't act like some stagnant tank light that you can put a PAR meter under and say..O.K. my SPS corals are receiving 300 microeinsteins.....it doesn't work that way in nature/or in a tank lit by the sun.
I can tell you that I have readings from 10 Microeinsteins to 2000 in one day, plus because of the nature of the "TUBE" sends different intensities all over the tank at different times of the day.
K' Family Reef
08/30/2008, 09:54 AM
very kewl thread!
is anyone familiar w/ using these on a vaulted ceiling???
our tank resides in the living room and we have thought about the s-tubes... but being that we have a vaulted ceiling then dont think its going to work... unless there was some way to run a 'tube' down from the ceiling to top of the tank... and it would have to be something that was aesthetically pleasing (vs looking like an attic).
recoms?
thanks
regards
GUILLO1
08/30/2008, 11:20 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13258148#post13258148 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Opsanus tau
I have a 21" tubular skylight (Sun-Dome of Florida) doesn't "yellow" like Sola tubes do over time(sending yellow light into your tank after a couple years).
can you be more specific about solatubes sending yellow light after a few years. Have you had solatubes before or how do you know? I just got 3 14" solatubes for a tank I'm building and looking around the solatubes looked like the best tubes overall.
hypernesia
08/30/2008, 03:41 PM
Neptune,
I was thinking the same question as I have vaulted ceilings. I have been thinking of using 3 tubes going down the vault 12 , 10, and 8 feet from the ceiling. The best info I have gotten is to buy the tubes Lowes,HD etc and have a good carpenter put them in and box them in, either indiviually or in one box. I currently have 2 people working on quotes to do this. The one thing they both said was: Woa I have to work 12ft in the air above your tank, thats going to be tricky. I interpreted that to mean expensive. I will post back when I get the quotes.
GUILLO1
08/30/2008, 04:02 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13258740#post13258740 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GUILLO1
can you be more specific about solatubes sending yellow light after a few years. Have you had solatubes before or how do you know? I just got 3 14" solatubes for a tank I'm building and looking around the solatubes looked like the best tubes overall. well I just checked the solatube manual and it turns out Solatubes come with a 10yr warranty.:D
Opsanus tau
08/30/2008, 04:33 PM
My good friend lives in AZ and after three years his solatubes turned a weir green/yellow color.
He replaced them with a different brand, but I belive they have only been installed about 2+1/4 years now.
....I then read on another thread (about sola-tubes a while back,(A few years now))..were a few folks complained of the same "yellowing".
Then belive it or not , the guy from another company I was looking into used it as his selling point, saying"his didn't yellow like Solatubes"......however, this is only what I have been told, and apologize for posting it as some sort of fact.
hahnmeister
08/31/2008, 02:26 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13260008#post13260008 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hypernesia
Neptune,
I was thinking the same question as I have vaulted ceilings. I have been thinking of using 3 tubes going down the vault 12 , 10, and 8 feet from the ceiling. The best info I have gotten is to buy the tubes Lowes,HD etc and have a good carpenter put them in and box them in, either indiviually or in one box. I currently have 2 people working on quotes to do this. The one thing they both said was: Woa I have to work 12ft in the air above your tank, thats going to be tricky. I interpreted that to mean expensive. I will post back when I get the quotes.
Thats easy... just build a temporary floor/deck just above your tank, supported on the sides with posts. Your tank should be fine for a day or two without light while the tubes are put in. Nothing but 2x4's and plywood... I think that contractor was just trying to give a $200 excuse for a $40 solution.
juliovideo
08/31/2008, 06:52 PM
Alternatives.......................
http://www.himawari-net.co.jp/e_page-index01.html
http://www.parans.com/
http://www.sunlight-direct.com/
http://www.solatube.com.au/asp/index.asp?page=skylights
http://www.solatube.com.mx/distribucion.html
-----------------------------------
hypernesia
09/01/2008, 08:07 AM
Thanks Hahn,
I will make sure they are aware that I am aware of a simple solution.
Does that sound right?!!
hahnmeister
09/01/2008, 02:16 PM
Pretty much.
8BALL_99
09/02/2008, 10:13 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13221269#post13221269 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JCTewks
and another "lost" thread from my subscriptions :mad2:
Same issue with me lol Everytime one gets unstuck, I have to re subscribe.
hobogato
09/02/2008, 12:24 PM
d'oh.... this thread was one of the reasons i put in tubular skylights and i forgot to post here.
here is what i did.
here is the way i did the tank originally:
front
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/tank12.jpg
back
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/tank22.jpg
here is what it used to look like inside the "canopy"
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/240/PDRM3661.jpg
now, here is what it looks like
front
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/240/PDRM3675.jpg
back
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/240/PDRM3676.jpg
from above (i have covered the T5 lights with acrylic covers since this pic)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/240/PDRM3677.jpg
here is a comparison of the lighting in the tank:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/240/compare.jpg
here are hourly progression pics on a sunny day - left side is with the actinics off and right side is with them on
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/240/solartubes2.jpghttp://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/240/solartubesactinics2.jpg
i documented some of the changes to the tank so far in this (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1457056&perpage=25&pagenumber=1) thread and posted installation documentation in my build thread (little red house) thanks to all of you pioneers that helped me improve my tank!!!!
8BALL_99
09/02/2008, 12:55 PM
Thanks hobogato for posting Pictures Here also!
mborn
09/02/2008, 02:31 PM
Hey hobogato great job! I especially like the bell reflectors you made for the ends of the tubes! Great idea! I went down to Lowes and picked up some plastic planters to make some for my tubes. I hope they direct a little more light in the tank in the morning and late afternoon when the light is mostly reflected down the tubes (as apposed to midday in summer when the sun is overhead and shines mostly straight down the tubes). Also in the winter, when the sun is low in the sky (at least where I live) and the light is mostly reflected, they should come in really handy.
landy
09/02/2008, 06:34 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13265941#post13265941 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by juliovideo
Alternatives.......................
http://www.sunlight-direct.com/
-----------------------------------
Anyone looked closely @ this idea? Surly cost would be the downfall. Maybe a scaled down version not met to light an entire warehouse could be feasible. Defiantly a slick solution to solar lighting.
Landy
SERVO
09/04/2008, 12:57 PM
IMO an added benefit of this type of setup is the ability to really limit the amount of rock in your main display. You could easily place stags at the bottom and let them fill in the space. I am really excited to see how you pioneers continue to push the envelopes. Around 2004 some guy posed about solatubes but disappeared. I have been fantasizing about this ever since. S(&^ if we can practically eliminate the major cost of lighting and now with such low energy pumps, a super sized tank isn't really that big of a burden.
mborn; where is your picture that you promised in Ace's thread?
I wonder why more public aquariums don't try this out?:rolleyes:
8BALL_99
09/04/2008, 01:46 PM
Well really most public Aquariums have skylights over their monster tanks. Well I shouldn't say most.. I've been to 3 and all three had skylights over the main tank.. The other thing is most public Aquariums are mostly just fish.. So lighting isn't that big of a factor.
For us though like you said probably 1/3-1/2 of a reefs running cost is the lighting. Maybe even more on some sps tanks with very low wattage pumps. I know when I did the math for my setup on bulb cost and electricity it added up quick.. Not to mention the added heat from the lights needs to be removed either from the tank or the room. Heck or both lol
hahnmeister
09/04/2008, 02:04 PM
SERVO, thats what I plan on doing myself actually. The only way I would want to afford a 500g tank is by using skylights and such other 'energy saving' methods. Its not just the electricity, but the fixture and bulb costs as well. I figure its pretty much break even to start, but not having to buy a crate of bulbs every year is a big bonus. I plan on using some arrays of 80 watt T5s to suppliment the blue of the tank as well as 'off-peak' viewing, but the sun will be the major method of lighting the tank. I will oversize the skylight, and then block out more than half of the glass with blue and purple films to provide a more pleasing color... as well as the T5's. If I was unable to do skylights, I would most likely cap myself at say... 300 gallons. Thats just alot of electricity to suck up otherwise.
As for the 500g, I plan on using Tunze Stream pumps of course, and a sump that is as close to the same height as the tank as possible, and a return pump that only does 2000gph most likely. The skimmer, which I have already, will be under 100 watts... so all in all, Im trying to keep the total pump wattage at about 600 watts (Tunzes may be 55 watts a pop, but they alternate max output between 2 pumps, so its more like 80 watts constant per pair), or $525 per year at $.10/kwh. That sounds like alot, but just consider HOW MUCH MORE those who run tanks this size have to spend on lighting then. Also, the tank will be in its own room, so all the heat and humidity will not tax the main house's A/C unless I leave the doors open (in winter though, its a giant heatsink). Since even the most efficient halides are still only 25% efficient (75% of the electricity goes directly to heat), thats a good thousand or so watts of heat that the tank wont generate in summer to tax the A/C, as well as humidity. In winter, the water will absorb the radiant energy of the sun and release it at night into the room... just like a solarium/sunroom with a dark tile floor. So the tank will help pay for itself by contributing to the home's heating. If I can, I will bury a couple water storage containers in the back yard as well and run heat exchanger loops instead of a chiller. On a hot day, all I will need to run is a small pump to run cooled water from the underground storage tanks through titanium pipes in the sump. Likewise, if the pipes were run through the basement or underneath the flooring on the first floor, it could help keep the house warm in winter, or soak up some more of that cool from the concrete in the summer. There is a website out there about how a guy cooled his 500+watt computer system with a water cooling loop and about 30some feet of copper pipe set on top of his garage floor. Thats some good heat exchange!
Pumps are pumps though... a watt of energy is hard to get around... as efficient as you can get, if you still need 1hp of pump to move enough water, you will need 1hp+ of pump... no way around it. The best thing to do it to try to put the least amount of head pressure on the pumps as possible and use flow-biased pumps with large diameter plumbing (or prop pumps for flow). You also dont need to move large volumes through your overflow/sump... beyond a certain point of say... 2x the tank volume per hour, you arent doing much more than just recirculating, and recirculating should be left to low-pressure pumps that dont have to pump against head pressure. If you want to start saving more on pump electricity, then yeah... you are looking at a solar array system... which considering the way things are going for energy, are a very good investment to consider. My father made his own solar array for hot water heating... in the freezing cold of winter, the water from the solar heater gets up to 150 degrees F easily (120+ is what most people consider 'scalding')... and runs forever (as long as there is enough sun out, lol, then the inline heater comes back on). Being able to shut off your hot water heater for 90% of its use is a nice saver. But even PV solar cells are a smart choice. The time is coming when you may no longer fill up at a gas station, but instead recharge your car's batteries at home. Demand for electricity would go up then, and solar panels are getting cheaper and cheaper all the time. Heck, with a car alternator, some batteries, and a controller/inverter, you can hook it up to your own wind turbine and make your own wind-generator for cheap. Ive seen guys DIY 1kW vertical wind generators like this for a few hundred $$$.
Hmm.... I like that project ^^^. If there is enough wind where I move, Im thinking I should make my own wind turbine for what... $1000 at most, and run my pumps for free. A 15' tall vertical turbine in 10 mile winds should do that easily.
The problem with PV Solar Panels right now is that they only harvest maybe 10-15% of the light that hits them... mostly red spectrum. Until they figure out how to make PV's that are more efficient, they are still worth it, but not AS WORTH IT when the higher power density ones come out later and can make 3x the power or more in the same area. One way to capture 100% of the radiation from the sun (even UV and IR) is to focus the light into a small area, like those 'radar dish' collectors mentioned before. The advantage is that by focusing alot of radiation into a small area that can capture it (like pipes painted black) is that you can capture nearly ALL of the radiation from the light. This is just like the solar water heater my father built, but we are aiming for 200+ degrees because then we will run the steam through a turbine generator (a water pump in reverse, sorta). The water itself can regenerate (the steam gets collected/condensed and recycled) and you have a very efficient and effective solar system. The cool thing is that other than the mirrored reflectors/reflectors (which themselves arent that technical), the system is remarkably easy to make. Once again, the only important parts that you MUST buy usually are the power conversion electronics and controls (phase/frequency conversion, furling control, overload protection). And these arent that technical either.
mborn
09/04/2008, 05:36 PM
Since I haven’t posted any updates of my solatube tank in a while, I thought I’d post a few pictures showing the general progression of my tank over the past few years. I installed 4 X 14” solatube brand skylights and setup the tank (84”L X 24 ”W X 36”H) with no supplemental lighting in March, 2005 (picture #1, 2005). As you can see the tank is somewhat deep and the rock work was low, and the corals were a good distance from the tubes. Admittedly, when I first installed the tubes I didn’t have a good understanding of how light would be emitted by them. I naively thought that they would be like big tubular flashlights shining sunlight straight down into my tank all day long. I soon learned that as the sunlight reflects down the tubes, it comes out of the tubes at different angles as the sun moves across the sky. Also, these angles change over the months as the seasons change and the sun moves from low in the sky in winter to high in the sky in summer. This made it very hard to place corals. I’d place a coral in a nice bright spot that got about 3 or more hours of continual light, then a couple of months later as the sun changed position in the sky, that same spot might only get 1 hour of bright light or very low light for the whole day. It soon became clear that my deep tank with low rock structure wasn’t going to work. So at this point I corrected my mistake and built a shallower tank (84”L X 24 ”W X 23”H). I then added tube extenders to drop the tubes closer to the corals (picture #2, 2006). This corrected the problem quite well. The tubes were now close enough to the corals that no matter what angle the light comes out of them, most of it still hits the corals. This had the effect of increasing the overall photoperiod for the corals. As the tank started to mature through 2006/2007, I continued to add a variety of hard corals, soft corals, and gorgonians to put together a nice mixed reef and see how the various types of photosynthetic inverts would do with this lighting. Also, I added 120 watts of actinic T5’s (picture #3, 2007). I mainly did this so the tank wouldn’t be dark when I got home from work. I hated looking at my tank with a flashlight at the end of the day to see how everything did. It also has the added benefit of cutting down a bit on the yellowish look. I also use blue filters on the tubes in the summer to cut down on the overall intensity. This was necessary because the tubes are only 3.5 feet long from roof to tank and at midday in summer, direct unreflected sunlight shines straight down the tubes. To my surprise, I found that in general, the soft corals thrive under the brightest summer light better than the SPS, which for me, seem to prefer a more moderate, even lighting that doesn’t transition to abruptly throughout the day. For the most part the tubes have worked out very well and the corals are growing in nicely (picture #4, 2008).
Picture #1-2005
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/35791picture__1-2005.jpg
Picture #2-2006
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/35791picture__2-2006.JPG
Picture #3-2007
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/35791picture__3-2007.jpg
Picture #4-2008
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/35791picture__4-2008.jpg
hobogato
09/04/2008, 06:28 PM
very nice mborn!
JMBoehling
09/04/2008, 06:29 PM
Bravo MBorn! Looks awesome. I'll post a few of mine when I get back from MACNA XX :)
Later,
Jim
mborn
09/04/2008, 10:37 PM
Thanks you guys!
preimo
09/06/2008, 11:20 AM
I wish i would have see this thread earlier
iCon31
09/06/2008, 08:36 PM
I just spend a grip on my MH. Now time to start saving up on this solatube.
Electrobes
09/22/2008, 07:50 AM
Here's a question for you sun tubes guys/gals:
What's the largest light foot print a 21'' sun tube can make given the corals (Soft only) are under maximum of 6 inches of water?
I've been planning a coral farm for some time and had originally gone with halides but am convinced that the sun tubes/skylights is best.
I prefer sun tubes versus squared skylights but obviously want to go with what works. The reason I ask about the foot print is because at current I am planning on using 300G tubs which are about 6' X 5' rounded. I am still looking into other holding tanks but for now would like to consider my options assuming I will be using the tubs.
Your thoughts?
mborn
09/22/2008, 09:32 AM
I’d say ~ 36” of bright light and possibly up to ~ 48” (which would be pushing it IMO) of a less intense light with the tube higher above the tank. If you’re going to go with the tube higher off the water to get a larger coverage, I’d look into making a bell reflector for the end of the tube (like hobogato made for his tubes) to direct as much of the reflected light as possible into the tank. That will help even out the photoperiod for the tank as the sun moves across the sky.
VegasReefer
09/25/2008, 06:25 AM
Bell Reflectors at the end of a solatube is purely for decoration.
The usable photons are traveling down the tube, at angles between 0 and 45 degrees anything bouncing of the tubes surface at an angle higher than 45 degrees will be hitting the water surface at an angle of over 45 deg and simply be reflected.
The bell reflectors round shape would work great if the photons somehow made a 180 degree turn just after passing bast the end of the tube.
You can however add a funnel shaped attachment that would have an angle of 30 - 40 degrees that is 1/4th the diameter of the tube ( IE 16 inch tube, 4 inch funnel ) that would redirect 45 - 70 degree photons 15 - 45 degrees back into the tank. I don't know if that would add enough output to be worth the trouble of measuring, cutting and affixing the cones to be worth while. though it might be an interesting project to use to tie multiple cones together.. Maybe I should get the CAD out and figure out how to do that for a 8 x 14" set up for a 120 x 48 x 28 700 gallon I have planed..
If I get a chance in the morning before I go to work, I will draw up what I am talking about, and show how/why it would work.
mborn
09/25/2008, 03:21 PM
Perhaps in theory. But I’ve made bell reflectors for my tubes and have had them installed for a couple of weeks and they do increase the overall brightness of the tank, especially in the pre-noon morning hours and later in the after noon when the sun is lower in the sky and not directly overhead. They also have helped even the light out as the day transitions from morning to late afternoon. I’ve had my tubes without reflectors for 3.5 years and I can definitely see the improvement with the reflectors. So in actual application they provide a bit more than just decoration. The effect isn’t hugely dramatic though (i.e. it won’t make the difference between the tubes working or not working), but they are an improvement and worth doing IMO. As to which shape is better, bell or funnel, that’s an interesting question. I think the bell is sort of funnel shaped, albeit a curved funnel, but it might be worth looking at if a straight funnel is better than a curved one. As far as all the light greater than a 45 deg angle reflecting off the water, I assume that would be true if the surface was perfectly flat and smooth, but with all the current in my tank, the surface is constantly rippling and agitated, so I doubt that most of it is just reflecting off. But if it is, maybe some of it is getting caught and reflected back down by the bells.
8BALL_99
10/06/2008, 12:00 PM
I ended up not installing my skylight because I found a nice 3" pvc line running right where it needed to go. There just wasn't any way to move it and have it keep the same fall or slope on the line. So I ended up getting 3 14" Sola Tube brand tubes.. They were small enough to fit by the pipe but still sit pretty centered over the tank. I got them installed yesterday. Well more like last night. It took pretty much all day. Here is a couple pics from last night. I lined the top of my upper canopy/light shaft with FRP before I stalled the inside tube and trim.
http://pic90.picturetrail.com/VOL2150/944495/20092255/337496454.jpg
http://pic90.picturetrail.com/VOL2150/944495/20092255/337496453.jpg
salty joe
10/06/2008, 07:14 PM
What's FRP?
8BALL_99
10/06/2008, 09:02 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13497027#post13497027 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by salty joe
What's FRP?
Fiber Reinforced Plastic, Its the same stuff that my entire equipment room is covered with.. Its a plastic wall board thats used in commercial kitchens and bathrooms. Its just to water proof the ceiling. I plan on covering the inside of the upper canopy with it also. Sheetrock and moisture don't go well together :)
8BALL_99
10/06/2008, 09:55 PM
I took some pictures this afternoon around 5. I also checked the par. At the end of the tube I was getting anywhere from 500-800 par. But you move the par meter down 15" or so and it drops to 200 or less. When the light exits the tube it seems to shoot side ways and where else. I think if it was directed down the light output would be much better.
http://pic90.picturetrail.com/VOL2150/944495/20092255/337614729.jpghttp://pic90.picturetrail.com/VOL2150/944495/20092255/337614727.jpg
http://pic90.picturetrail.com/VOL2150/944495/20092255/337614728.jpg
http://pic90.picturetrail.com/VOL2150/944495/20092255/337614725.jpg
hahnmeister
10/06/2008, 10:04 PM
If you get the tubes close to the water surface, that will 'bend' the light downwards more... raising the intensity. Rays that enter the water at 45 degrees from vertical will be at 30 degrees from vertical underwater... the water surface itself acts as a lens. Since the light rays will be closer to vertical underwater, this will concentrate them more, but at such an angle, the glass sides of the tank will also act like reflectors... another bonus.
But considering you are getting close to 200 at 5pm, I wouldnt worry much... you might have much more than you need. What are the readings like at noon?
8BALL_99
10/06/2008, 10:43 PM
Dont know I was at work at 12. The 200 Par though is with in 15-20" of the tubes you move down and the par drops. It was very nice to see that 500-800 right at the ends though lol. I would like to get around 300 to the bottom of the stand. I see what your saying though about the water acting as a lens itself. I plan on either extending the tubes or adding panels with mylar or something like it to the upper canopy at an angle to direct the light down. I'm still trying to decide how to finish it out. Right now I'm thinking that I'll add a 16" extension to the tubes and then maybe try to add a small flare to the end of the tubes to help direct the light down. I dont' want to bring the tubes down to close to the water because I like having easy access to work in the tank. My upper canopy is about 22" tall the lower is about 19" They overlap a couple inches so from the top of the tank to the bottom of the tubes I've got about 40". So even with the 16" extension Your still talking 24" away from the tank. So I think some kind of ring to reflect the light down would help. Ofcourse these things will be inside a canopy painted white and maybe even covered with reflective metal so most of the light has to go in the tank at some point.. The biggest concern I have with that is the back of the lower canopy is open the equipment room. About 15" worth.. Hope all that makes since its a little hard to explain.
8BALL_99
10/07/2008, 03:13 PM
Hmm they make 24" extention tubes as well. So I could add one of those to each tube then I would only have a 16" gap. That still should be plenty of room for access. I still think some type of reflector on the ends would help direct the light down though.
hahnmeister
10/07/2008, 03:51 PM
As for the 'ring' to direct the light... you might want to consider that the light coming down the shaft in these things is alot different than a bulb in a relative shallow reflector...
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k278/wetworx101/solatubereflectorpeg.jpg
The light isnt from a point source, but enters at all angles (a). As the light comes in at a more and more of an angle... it will bounce off the sides of the 'tube' more and more... every time it does it will lose some of its intensity... say... with some miro that is 95% reflective... after hitting the sides of the tube a dozen or so times... you can lose a good percentage of the light coming in (an argument that the further north you are, the more you might consider having your sola tubes come down at an angle... perhaps the average angle of the sun at noon as it varies throughout the year... so you have more direct light).
If you decide on adding a 'ring' of reflective material to help guide the light downwards, also consider that since this isnt a point source light, like from a bulb, having a curved reflector is rather pointless. If you have a 'spherical' shape (b), you arent helping the light that hits the ring towards the bottom since its almost parallel with the sola-tube.... so what's the point? With a 'parabolic' (c), you have much the same, but at the top of the reflector... light that hits it at a sharp angle will still exit at a sharp angle. So the best 'average' is actually just a flat sided funnel (d)... which is nice because its the easiest to make. It will bend the most light downwards, and by making it 'flat sided', you can even have the angle be adjustable (so you can vary the funnel walls from say.... 45 degrees to 30 degrees) by having the bottom edge overlap and be adjustable with clamps (top edge stays the diameter of the sola tube, bottom diameter can change in diameter... like an aperture on a camera).
8BALL_99
10/07/2008, 05:18 PM
hahnmeister, You read my mind. Thanks for the illustration. I was already thinking of a funnel with flat sides. Just by looking at the outlet of the tube I was thinking this might be the most effective. Not to mention something I could make. I already bought some poster board on the way home from work the play with the angle and size before I try to do it out of metal. I also double checked my measurements and 24" extensions will work Perfect as far as the canopies are concerned. If the funnel reflectors comes down very much I might end up cutting the extensions down a couple inches, But I'll deal with that when I get that far.
Will
el aguila
10/08/2008, 07:02 PM
I have recently purchasedd 2 - 14" tubes. If you experiment with the angles of a funnel, I would be very interested in your results.
8BALL_99
10/08/2008, 11:25 PM
I've already made one out of Poster board. I'm waiting on my 24" extensions now. Once I get them I'll make my funnel out of metal. I need to find a good place to order the metal from. That or I'll just go to lowes or home depot and pick up a Extension tube for their brand solar tubes and cut the funnels out of that metal.
salty joe
10/09/2008, 07:18 PM
If I ever get mine going, I will use 2 48"x48" skylights. Is there an infra red filter that could be removed in the winter to help heat the tank and removed in the summer? I looked around the net & all I could find was camera stuff.
hahnmeister
10/09/2008, 07:22 PM
LoE filters UV as well as IR.
salty joe
10/10/2008, 07:21 AM
I don't know how much LoE would knock off PAR, but judging from the light coming through my windows, it would be significant.
So I'm wondering if there is a filter that would block only IR, to be used only in the summer. Trying to find every possible way to cut down on the energy consumtion of my future tank.
It is my understanding that UV exposure can cause corals to produce protective pigments that are colorful. I also wonder if the UV might harm fish since they will always be in shallow water.
DheereCrossing
10/10/2008, 09:23 AM
Most metal hailides with out filters give off uv don't they?
hobogato
10/12/2008, 04:27 PM
here was my thinking on what i did....
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/untitled.jpg
hahnmeister
10/12/2008, 05:10 PM
Sure, the 'pipe' sticks into the reflector so much that the top part of it really doesn't get used then... the only part that is actually 'working' is the bottom, which looks mostly flat.
hobogato
10/12/2008, 05:44 PM
yes, but it is out - away from the tube, so there is less spot light effect and the light covers the area under it more evenly.
VegasReefer
11/02/2008, 12:26 AM
Thanks for putting that graphic up hahnmeister. That is what I was trying to explain. Unfortunatly I got pulled out of town for a couple weeks, and wasn't able to reply.
VegasReefer
11/02/2008, 12:26 AM
DOuble Post and Delete didn't work
Phenominal pics everybody! Keep 'em coming. Lots of great ideas in this thread.
JMBoehling
01/15/2009, 01:18 PM
Here's an updated video of my reef. Sun is pretty low in the sky so not much natural light. Looking forward to spring and the sun to shine on in :)
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/th_7a97864d.jpg (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/?action=view¤t=7a97864d.pbr)
Later,
Jim
Cool Jim. Thanks for sharing.
mborn
01/15/2009, 03:45 PM
Hey Jim, the tank’s looking great! I really like how the corals are mounted on the walls and are growing in. Fantastic look!
JMBoehling
03/27/2009, 01:47 PM
It's growing season and time for a spring time update ;)
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/th_9d4c3bee.jpg (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/?action=view¤t=9d4c3bee.pbr)
Later,
Jim
GUILLO1
03/27/2009, 03:14 PM
Looking really good. I love all the zoos on the bottom.
mborn
03/28/2009, 12:18 PM
Very nice!
SERVO
03/29/2009, 11:00 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13502465#post13502465 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
As for the 'ring' to direct the light... you might want to consider that the light coming down the shaft in these things is alot different than a bulb in a relative shallow reflector...
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k278/wetworx101/solatubereflectorpeg.jpg
The light isnt from a point source, but enters at all angles (a). As the light comes in at a more and more of an angle... it will bounce off the sides of the 'tube' more and more... every time it does it will lose some of its intensity... say... with some miro that is 95% reflective... after hitting the sides of the tube a dozen or so times... you can lose a good percentage of the light coming in (an argument that the further north you are, the more you might consider having your sola tubes come down at an angle... perhaps the average angle of the sun at noon as it varies throughout the year... so you have more direct light).
If you decide on adding a 'ring' of reflective material to help guide the light downwards, also consider that since this isnt a point source light, like from a bulb, having a curved reflector is rather pointless. If you have a 'spherical' shape (b), you arent helping the light that hits the ring towards the bottom since its almost parallel with the sola-tube.... so what's the point? With a 'parabolic' (c), you have much the same, but at the top of the reflector... light that hits it at a sharp angle will still exit at a sharp angle. So the best 'average' is actually just a flat sided funnel (d)... which is nice because its the easiest to make. It will bend the most light downwards, and by making it 'flat sided', you can even have the angle be adjustable (so you can vary the funnel walls from say.... 45 degrees to 30 degrees) by having the bottom edge overlap and be adjustable with clamps (top edge stays the diameter of the sola tube, bottom diameter can change in diameter... like an aperture on a camera).
I've always thought that it would be pretty cool to take some luminarc reflectors, cut a hole and or customize the design to obtain maximum reflectivity. There isn't a coral out there that wouldn't keep its color providing your chemisty's are stable and appropriate.
JMBoehling
06/05/2009, 09:03 PM
Shots from tonight. No natural sun, just (02) t5's and a couple LED's. Natural Light is booming right now. I'll take some day shots in a few months.
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/th_76c90a31.jpg (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/?action=view¤t=76c90a31.pbr)
Later,
Jim
Western_reefer
06/12/2009, 07:34 PM
VERY nice reef Jim!!
JMBoehling
06/13/2009, 05:38 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15184002#post15184002 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Western_reefer
VERY nice reef Jim!!
Thanks! :) My reef wall goal from over 5 years ago is in sight. Many bumps in the road and setbacks along the way. There are just so MANY variables in this hobby, one bad turn and your back to square one...
Jim
shikhyung
06/22/2009, 01:51 PM
Hello, Im thrill to this. I have few questions.
1-Is there any different with the solar tube that we find in local hardware like lowe or HD?
2-How to determine the distance of the tubes to the surface of the water?
3-Is there any diffuser at all, if no, how to keep moisture out of the tube?
4-with the tank 50" length, how many tubes requires?
Thanks,
JMBoehling
06/22/2009, 03:26 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15238169#post15238169 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shikhyung
Hello, Im thrill to this. I have few questions.
1-Is there any different with the solar tube that we find in local hardware like lowe or HD?
2-How to determine the distance of the tubes to the surface of the water?
3-Is there any diffuser at all, if no, how to keep moisture out of the tube?
4-with the tank 50" length, how many tubes requires?
Thanks,
1-Is there any different with the solar tube that we find in local hardware like lowe or HD?
I used the Home Depot specials ;)
2-How to determine the distance of the tubes to the surface of the water?
Leave yourself enough room to get your arms and head over the tank
3-Is there any diffuser at all, if no, how to keep moisture out of the tube?
They come with a diffuser but I don;t use it. My tubes have corroded a bit over the past 4 years, but nothing too bad. I guess I can always replace the liner if it gets really bad.
4-with the tank 50" length, how many tubes requires?
As many as you can fit. I would include a couple t5's (i have 4 on my 90) I used the 10" tubes, and should have gone with the 14" I would think (02) 14" tubes on a 50" tank with some T5's would keep your reef plenty happy ;)
Keep us updated on the build.
Later,
Jim
shikhyung
06/22/2009, 06:31 PM
thanks Jim, Without the diffuser the light will become a spot light, correct?
2-what is the effect with the diffuser on?
3-you once said that using the blue filter, what is that, and can you show the link to it?
Thanks.
vincent843
06/25/2009, 10:33 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12984396#post12984396 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reefski's
it does really work. now if i can just get rid of the algae...
Carl
this is what I have been wordered how do you deal with algea, like most of tanks have algea problem because get direct sun light from the window.
GUILLO1
06/26/2009, 10:10 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15259693#post15259693 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by vincent843
this is what I have been wordered how do you deal with algea, like most of tanks have algea problem because get direct sun light from the window. I've had zero algea problems with my tubes.
Henry Bowman
06/26/2009, 11:09 AM
The light doesn't "cause" the algea growth. Increasing the light (solar tubes or a bigger more powerful light) will fuel algea growth IF there are nutrients present for the organism to feed on.....
augustasalty
06/27/2009, 01:16 PM
thanks for all the helpful information
vincent843
06/27/2009, 01:45 PM
Question: The dome said UV protection, this protection is for the dome not to be cracked in time, or it intent to block the UV from the sun? Eventually, what I want to know is do we need the UV come in? thanks.
If it's natural levels of UV it shouldn't be a problem. If it's a bulb that's throwing higher than natural levels, that could be detrimental.
If you're exposing corals to a system like this that have been in captivity under artificial lighting for a long time it might be a problem. It would be something akin to changing your whole lighting rig.
I plan to use sola tubes in the future and figured that I would add corals in the winter months so they would be able to acclimate to the shorter days and have the intensity increase slowly over a course of months.
I live in a sub tropical area approximately equivalent to Lord Howe Island's distance from the equator. I would think this would be sufficient to raise most species of coral. Especialy captive strains.
vincent843
06/27/2009, 10:46 PM
I plan to use sola tubes in the future and figured that I would add corals in the winter months so they would be able to acclimate to the shorter days and have the intensity increase slowly over a course of months.
Good to know. How others do tranfer their corrals, what is your process? thanks.
vincent843
06/28/2009, 09:13 AM
OK. I've been having fun. After figure where the tank location, loose a little bit here and there, I found the position of the tank.
Now, I come up with another problem, the joist is 16" center, the raffter is 24" center, the heigh from the ceiling to the roof is only 20". Where the tubes location straigh up will hit the raffer (off 2"). So with that short 20" heigh, how can I twist the tube to accomplish that 2" off?
_
\_
vincent843
06/28/2009, 09:58 AM
Let me clear the pic a little, the tubes wil be off 2" from left to right respect to the slope of the roof. Can I cut the joist , installed the tube straigh then re joist with another piece of 2x6?
BTW, the total length from top of the flashing to the ceiling will be 30", the shortest distance that the tube can twist is 10"(14" tube).
H20ENG
06/28/2009, 10:35 AM
Dont they make adjustable angle pieces of extension tube? Looks like HVAC ducting, with 3- 45 degree pieces that you can twist to the correct position.
vincent843
06/28/2009, 07:12 PM
Yes, they do, like I said, the shortest distance from the twist is 10".
Trickman2
02/28/2010, 05:23 PM
Any updates from people running solar long term now.
JMBoehling
02/28/2010, 06:12 PM
Well, I typically run an update around spring time, when the sun gets a little higher in the sky and the tubes fill up with natures rays ;)
It's been almost 4 years of having these installed over my reef and a couple observations:
1.) 10" tubes are probably a bit undersized for thsi application. I would design 14" or larger diameter tubes into a future build if I were to do it over.
2.) It is tough for me to get a real good definative answer on whether or not my little Science experiment with Solar Tubes in Richmond, VA over a reef tank is a flying success due to all the other requirements of reef keepeing (Water Flow, Chemistry, Temps). There are so many vairables that what appears to be a light issue could very easily be masked by a excessive nutrient issues, lack of flow issue, low Alk issue, pest issue, etc. ;)
3.) There is no doubt in my mind that all my reef inhabitants love the natural sunlight. The biggest issue for me is the late fall and winter months when I get very little light through them, so I must have some supplimental light. For me it is (04) 54 watt t5's and (02) Led Par 38 spots.
So enough chat... Here are some updated photos of my reef. Granted not perfect, but growing. I did recently add a sulpher denitrator after finding out my Nitrates had climbed up to excessive levels (Greater than 25 :( ) Reason I mention this is that I hope my next update will sow some real nice improvement.
Pictures next thread...
JMBoehling
02/28/2010, 06:27 PM
Here are some updated pics of my reef
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/IMG_1263.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/IMG_1266.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/IMG_1267.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/IMG_0588.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/IMG_0581.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/IMG_0157.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i122/JMBoehling/IMG_0410.jpg
Thanks,
Jim
Reefer Brian
02/28/2010, 07:02 PM
Lookin' good...how about a full tank shot.
2-10" tubes over a 90g?
JMBoehling
02/28/2010, 07:10 PM
Lookin' good...how about a full tank shot.
2-10" tubes over a 90g?
Yep.. (02) 10 Tubes on a 90 gallon. My travel distance from the dome on the roof to my tank is approximately 10 feet. I'll post a full tank shot tomorrow when the lights turn back on around 11 am ;)
Jim
Reefer Brian
02/28/2010, 08:02 PM
Why not extend them down to the tank? A pic would be great...I plan on using 2 or 3 14" on my 225g.
The Sunoptics Light Cube is something that may interest you guys on this subject.
H20ENG
03/02/2010, 05:29 PM
Wow, huge growth since last time! Great Pics! Thanks for the update JMB.
Lot of asterinas there!
Pcrain
03/06/2010, 06:08 PM
In the winter months are you having to supplement with natural spectrum t5s? then go actinic for summer? i want to try and do this and want much more info before cutting holes in my roof =) but this is soo sweet. is algae much of an issue?
JMBoehling
03/07/2010, 07:29 AM
In the winter months are you having to supplement with natural spectrum t5s? then go actinic for summer? i want to try and do this and want much more info before cutting holes in my roof =) but this is soo sweet. is algae much of an issue?
I supplement with (04) 54 Watt T5's (3 Ati Blue Plus and 1 Blue Spezial). I also added (02) Par 38 LED's 10K for added shimmer during the winter months. I don't switch out the bulbs in the summer, just run them in the evening when I want to look at everything ;)
I have no algae issues (well, no more than you would run into with running all halides or T5's) as algae must feed on organics. Keep them in check and you won't have any probs.
FYI.. If you designing these, I highly recommend using the largest tubes you can possibly fiut into your design. While the 10" tubes over my 90 gallon reef are good, I think (02) 14's would have been much better, and given my reef even more natural light, and possibly reducing the amount of supplemental light I need to run. Also note, I am in Richmond, VA so you'll need to take into effect your geographic location and the angle of the sun, etc..
later,
Jim
saltykelly
10/18/2010, 10:53 PM
Do the tubes create much shimmer like halides?
Would a 10" homedepot tube and (6) 3w royal blue LED's on an 18" cube be:
A) Enough light living in Northern CA
B) Blue enough to create a 12k+ look?
davidwillson
10/19/2010, 11:19 PM
Carl I tried www.anolux.com and it didn't work.
I have really loved this idea in the past. Your tanks look sweet guys. Just saving money every month is a big plus. I am building an 8 foot tank and really thinking about getting 2 of the tubes from home depot and run 2 MH and see how it works. I am just not sure how the other half will react when I tell her now I am cutting into our new roof. hahahahahh Great job guys..
Julie over there is terrific and really helped me out. i got 4x8 sheets which they do not list on their website but are available and at a cost savings over the 2x4 sheets.
They are in Canada and so there was the added cost of shipping internationally. all told, <$2000 to do my whole skylight shaft and to have a couple sheets left over to build a reflector above the skylight and a reflective BBQ. i will save that much the first year.
bowfinger
04/07/2011, 01:54 AM
I am drooling at all these projects! When I get a house, I am going natural for sure.
I have done skylight installation (probably a few thousand under my belt) and I can say the 4' x 8' will give more light than a bunch of tubes any day. The best thing is to go large at top. Leave the framing in place and line with reflective or paint white gloss. Go down to size needed at tank and use foam board with reflective side from home depot as your shaft. Bind this with reflective foil tape and your set. With this size, no need to buy the special coated material as needed in tube lighting. Make everything visual look nice though. Also using prismatic reflectors at top in dome or set on your curb and another prismatic just above tank helps distribute light evenly and stop heat transfer. You can place an electric switch / binds system if too bright and you can tie in a light sensor that will kick on your electric lights on cloudy days and/or as clouds pass by. I have done this for gymnasiums where light is really essential and its consistency very important.
Anyways, great work guys, keep the pictures coming with all the growth!
the 4' x 8' will give more light than a bunch of tubes any day.
A skylights performance is largely dependent on the lens material, tint, pattern, number, and shape of the lens. A blanket statement about the quality of the light and the quantity of PAR at the coral can vary greatly with those factors. Each needs to be measured.
Tube type skylights and traditional skylights have different applications based on the construction of the structure. For instance, how well does a skylight do for the ground floor of a two story building? Not well.
The best thing is to go large at top. Leave the framing in place
Light always obeys the inverse square law. A 30 degree slope, getting larger as it enters the room without interference creates the best situation for limiting the light loss. However, it is covering more area and less intense per square inch than originally.
line with reflective or paint white gloss. Go down to size needed at tank and use foam board with reflective side from home depot as your shaft. Bind this with reflective foil tape and your set. With this size, no need to buy the special coated material as needed in tube lighting.
I am sorry, but you are mistaken here. Tubular skylights try to "channel" the light into the room the same way fiber optic cable works. Signals within fiber optics are "bounced" through a property called "Total Internal Reflection". This is achieved through the densities of the material and creating a situation where it reflects without diffusion or refraction.
To achieve this in tubular skylights, aluminum sheet has a number of thin film layers applied to it. The differences in density of the materials creates this situation. Even so, this isn't perfect and any oil canning or irregularity due to seam, rivet, etc...compound the issue further.
When light interacts with a surface, some of it is absorbed by the surface, reflected in all directions and is diffused at the same time. The light "bounced" from white paint or foil would be useful in heat transfer, the quality and quantity of light from one bounce is worthless for reading, much less PAR for a coral. And I haven't even mentioned destructive interference of waves yet......
Also using prismatic reflectors at top in dome or set on your curb and another prismatic just above tank helps distribute light evenly and stop heat transfer.
Quality and Quantity of light is the issue, and if it is found in sufficient levels for corals to thrive. They evolved to use the energy direct, not diffused and shielded. No glazing is the best solution, a clear lens would be the second. Opaque prismatic lighting is great from human aesthetics and comfort....remember we are trying to supply up to 90% of the energy needs to sustain life, rather than conserve energy by not needing to turn on lights, which would be your traditional application of daylighting.
bowfinger
04/10/2011, 04:09 PM
And a tube light will never get much PAR to the ground floor, this is through many PAR meter tests even with multiple tubes compared to one 4'x8' or even a 4x2. The statement of best to go large would be to stick with standard size for cost and reduce to needs of tank area. Going smaller on dome/curb and many times at the same cost or more up top would be pointless unless concerned about the size of the footprint visually.
Again, for cost effectiveness, the skylight uses the simpler design because it brings in way more light than a tube and outputs way more PAR. To stop heat, it uses trapped air as an insulator, much different than a tube. Our company actually competed with tubes on a job and our cost effectiveness and much higher PAR readings won us many more government jobs and later jobs at NASA. I can understand using the technology to get an exact spectrum for corals, but if the light is only good enough for 2-3 hours a day its not exactly efficient. It would be better to get more PAR than needed and control it, than to get exactly what you need at mid day and turn electricity on the rest of the day.
The idea of the prismatic is to capture and redistribute light evenly. When in the wild, the sun entry is 100% but while in a tank, you have a small hole several feet above this tank. You have to disperse this light evenly and harvest the most sun. Since a skylight is not working like a tube, with a "well" that gains hotspots (on one or two sides) most of the day. A built in curved prismatic under the clear dome is even better at capturing the sun while not in mid-day.
As far as what the prismatic removes needed by the corals, that is a different story. I know there is the technology to remove u.v. as standard. So a big ? on that, but as PAR goes, a standard skylight harvest's more light and distributes more PAR if using standard clear domes (not those crappy fiberglass yellow things) with standard prismatics.
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x282/bowfingerd/kirt004.jpg
I understand the tube lighting technology is way more complex than I understand and is the most efficient at dispersing the light it harvests. But, if we are not at any shortage of roofspace and we are for sure not at any shortage of sunlight we can capture at no additional costs, I have found large skylights can out compete tubes in the commercial sector, and only the residential if roof space and visual is not a factor. This should transfer into the natural reef lighting in my opinion if the roof space is available. If you have to run a tube 20-30 feet and have no space for a skylight curb, forget it, there is no way of getting your PAR unless technology greatly increased from a few years ago.
bowfinger
04/10/2011, 04:14 PM
dots, by the way we did a few skylight jobs up in Sacramento. Can not remember the College, but we used skylights on all the building above one story (Gymnasium, theatre etc.) and solatube did the hallways. They where not bright enough for our use, and we where too bright for the small areas. We also did many of the new schools up that way.
jdpiii3
06/19/2011, 09:59 AM
Hi guys I’m in the process of building my new 400 gal 72x36x36 in wall tank. I’m set on going the solar tube route but I’m wondering if I should go with Solatubes or use one of the other tube systems, is there much difference in the brands and the reflective properties? How many tubes would you use? I will also use 4 6’ Reef Brite actinic led’s
From what I’ve seen online
Model Size Coverage Area Wattage Output Equivalent Max Tube Light Length
10” up to 150 sq. ft. up to 300 watts 18’
13” up to 300 sq. ft. up to 500 watts 20’
18” up to 500 sq. ft. up to 1000 watts 20’
21” up to 700 sq. ft. up to 1450 watts 20’
My roof where I will be installing the tubes have a full southwest exposure and here in Florida I get lots of free sunlight.
GUILLO1
06/19/2011, 03:29 PM
Hi guys Im in the process of building my new 400 gal 72x36x36 in wall tank. Im set on going the solar tube route but Im wondering if I should go with Solatubes or use one of the other tube systems, is there much difference in the brands and the reflective properties? How many tubes would you use? I will also use 4 6 Reef Brite actinic leds
From what Ive seen online
Model Size Coverage Area Wattage Output Equivalent Max Tube Light Length
10 up to 150 sq. ft. up to 300 watts 18
13 up to 300 sq. ft. up to 500 watts 20
18 up to 500 sq. ft. up to 1000 watts 20
21 up to 700 sq. ft. up to 1450 watts 20
My roof where I will be installing the tubes have a full southwest exposure and here in Florida I get lots of free sunlight.
I hate to burst your bubble but I would recommend that you go a different route than the tubes. I've had some for a little over 2 years and they have become oxidized. I've lost about half the PAR I used to get when I first installed them. If I was to do it over again I would go all LEDS. Unless your going to be doing softies then the tubes should be ok for 5-6 years.
jdpiii3
06/19/2011, 06:57 PM
I hate to burst your bubble but I would recommend that you go a different route than the tubes. I've had some for a little over 2 years and they have become oxidized. I've lost about half the PAR I used to get when I first installed them. If I was to do it over again I would go all LEDS. Unless your going to be doing softies then the tubes should be ok for 5-6 years.
Guillo you do know that they come with a 10 year warranty.
Even if the tubes needed to be replaced at my cost every 5 or so years new tubes only cost $500-600.
Im still not sold on the led systems, and the good ones cost a fortune. Metal halides are out of the question Im spending $110-120 a month now lighting and then cooling my 150. Not to mention the amount of heat it adds to the house. My A/C is on 12 month of the year, avg electric bills hover around $490. a month. Got to love those hot summer Florida days.
The total cost to run my 400 will be around $50, a month.
wonrib00
02/15/2013, 12:34 AM
Any updates to this thread?
SERVO
02/15/2013, 07:32 AM
On my new 800 gallon build I am going with four sola tubes over it. I'm not planing on using them as primary light.
I didnt know about the tubes oxidizing. Ugh.
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ace_92101
02/16/2013, 12:18 AM
On my new 800 gallon build I am going with four sola tubes over it. I'm not planing on using them as primary light.
I didnt know about the tubes oxidizing. Ugh.
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What size tubes are you planning to use?
Fishbulb2
01/12/2016, 03:43 PM
I am resurrecting this fairly old thread. I'm really considering installs some solatubes for my reef and supplementing them with LEDs. The only discouraging thing that I read was that the PAR drops quickly over the years. I saw this in another thread that I just can't find at the morning. How are people that have had these for a longtime still liking them? Are these still a good long term solution when supplemented?
FB
There is a reason that public aquariums use expensive artificial light on their reef tanks.
1. It is costly to maintain their water at levels that will not permit overgrowth of algae. This does not necessarily apply to the home aquarist, who has a much greater spending budget per gallon of water. It is important to note why they don't typically use it.
2. Sunlight is less predictable. You want to make sure you have a well lit tank when the biggest crowds are coming through... often that's on a rainy day.
I'm all for a sunlit reef... in fact, I'm keeping one right now, but I'm only keeping one anemone at the moment and algae is definately an issue I need to keep up with.
Fishbulb2
01/12/2016, 07:25 PM
There is a reason that public aquariums use expensive artificial light on their reef tanks.
1. It is costly to maintain their water at levels that will not permit overgrowth of algae. This does not necessarily apply to the home aquarist, who has a much greater spending budget per gallon of water. It is important to note why they don't typically use it.
2. Sunlight is less predictable. You want to make sure you have a well lit tank when the biggest crowds are coming through... often that's on a rainy day.
I'm all for a sunlit reef... in fact, I'm keeping one right now, but I'm only keeping one anemone at the moment and algae is definately an issue I need to keep up with.
Nice to see someone from my neck of the woods! I wouldn't consider it without supplementing with LEDs. I have a Kessil light now and I would want to incorporate it with the solatubes. But if both can be combined, then why not? My concern is the statements that the tubes oxidize and all benefit quickly erodes. It would be easy enough for me to incorporate, but would not be willing to replace them every few years.
ace_92101
01/13/2016, 02:00 AM
I recall reading that solatube does warranty for aquarium use. They do have information on their site regarding aquarium use. You might want to google Mike Paletta's natural light tank. There's a YouTube video. I know that the Georgia Aquarium has sky lights to supplement their reef tank.
Nice to see someone from my neck of the woods! I wouldn't consider it without supplementing with LEDs. I have a Kessil light now and I would want to incorporate it with the solatubes. But if both can be combined, then why not? My concern is the statements that the tubes oxidize and all benefit quickly erodes. It would be easy enough for me to incorporate, but would not be willing to replace them every few years.
Howdy, neighbor!
My thought is that Solatubes would certainly be subject to oxidation. My fix would be to silicone them at the seam and seal them with a lens. Preferable low-iron glass. I don't like acrylic because it will scratch and mar much faster.
My reason for liking natural sunlight is the intensity (if you can capture the full effect) as well as the dawn/dusk effect and perfect moonlighting cycle. Given where we live, there will be shorter/longer days where the intensity will change. So, I think running those LEDs maybe four months out of the year will be helpful, though I'm not certain they'd be necessary. There was a fellow in NoVA (I think) who was keeping a sunlit reef with Solatubes and showed the intensity with the MH going at night versus during the day. You couldn't even tell that the MH were on. It was the difference between a candle and a stadium light.
Fishbulb2
01/13/2016, 03:04 PM
You couldn't even tell that the MH were on. It was the difference between a candle and a stadium light.
No that's selling it. I think at our house, it would be a pretty easy install. I also like that nowadays, it's easy enough to have a PAR meter to check their performance and oxidation. I also agree with sealing the tubes. I think I'll look into it more. I really like this idea.
Cheers,
FB
Yeah, if you have the fabrication knowledge or the means to pay someone else to do it, I don't think there's much to it, really. If you don't like it, you can shorten the tube and make it a skylight or simply re-seal the roof/ceiling.
vikinglord13
12/14/2016, 01:41 AM
Thanks to everyone who posted in the original thread and this new thread. I'm definitely sold on going the natural lit path with a blue LED supplement, or perhaps blue checkerboard filter for my dream tank once I buy a house.
We'll see how things go. I definitely enjoyed seeing the results on some of your tanks!
Zatoichi
12/22/2016, 01:29 AM
I always wondered about this plus they add nice light to the inside of your house and value :-) thanks for the info
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Zatoichi
12/22/2016, 01:33 AM
I have a 4x8 Skylight in my entrance way but also have vaulted ceilings, the Skylight has Southern Exposure which means it gets hot in summer and I have had to put up a shade. My concern with putting a tank there is that the sunlight would be so diffuse that it would just grow a lot of algae any thoughts?
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