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Prodd
09/18/2007, 07:17 AM
OK. I have a 101g tank. Fish include a yellow tang and two black and white Clownfish.
Because of the cost of live rock i went with 100Kg (220.5Lbs)50/50 base rock/premium Fiji LR, the idea being that after a while the LR would seed the base rock and make it indistinguishable.
I have no sump, the tank was reasonably the biggest i could find, has tempered glass on the bottom and cost in excess of £700 ((around $1300 at current exchange rates) hence, I aint gonna chance drilling). So i use a Fluval FX5 external filter (around 5-6g bucket)which i figure is merely a pressurized sump.
A Remora skimmer, which is small but seems to do the job properly (i will upgrade when funds and the missus allow). And 4 VHO Fluorescents (2 6700k full spectrum, 2 25000k true blue actinic).
I recently bought a pulsing xenia which is a lovely addition. Other than that theres 2 cleaner shrimp 1 red leg hermit 6 blue leg hermits and around 8 turbo snails. Oh and some sort of what looks to be a filter feeding crab (hitchhiker).
Ive had FW for a few years and still have a 20g FW tank in the bedroom, but i loved the variety of the SW. So i started testing my FW to see if i could keep the water as near to perfect as possible, did my research and after 6 months i thought it's time to go SW.
I'd love to have a proper Reef however, one step at a time and i started with this FOWLR. My hope is to slowly build it as close to a reef as is possible (SW2 is being designed in my head and building will hopefully commence in around 5yrs time).
Now Ive explained what i have, it'd be much appreciated if someone could give me some advice and answer a few questions.
1. Any advice on my tank either things that maybe a time bomb Ive overlooked or recommendations that i should do?
2. Any ideas as to the variety of my Clownfish? I haven't seen them in any book or on the web.
3. I understand that i could not keep hard corals because of lighting requirements ( a metal halide setup is being thought over as with discount its still £600 (roughly$1100))and the same with certain soft corals however, i was told that 'if it isn't green it doesn't photosynthesize therefore doesn't need hefty amounts of light'. Is this true?
4. What is the difference between SPS and soft corals?

I appologise if these questions sound dumb but i wish to learn, and mean to research as much as possible before putting anything into the tank. Not only are these living creatures, but they cost an arm and a leg so i want them to thrive. Isn't this what it's about? Giving these lifeforms a good life?

Once again your professional thoughts are appreciated and valued.

riley290
09/18/2007, 08:15 AM
I'm still a beginner so I'll preface this by saying if other people tell you different I'd probably listen to them. Ok...

I've heard that canister filters can become nitrate sinks. Since nitrates are the main contributor (as well as phosphates) to unwanted algae growth this could be a problem, one that you most likely won't notice until the canister has become saturated and begins to leach nutrients back into the water. This could take a lot of time depending on the size of the canister, amount of water through the canister, and obviously water parameters.

Also, I'm fairly certain that the "green needs light" is very false. Most anenomes come in a range of colors and most (if not all) have decently stringent light demands. In fact I've heard that if the population of zooanthella (spelling is def wrong there) blooms within a coral the animal will tint brown as that is the color of the photosynthesizing organisms inside. I'm pretty sure with lighting you're going to have to research individuals and identify what you want in your tank and suit the lighting needs to those species.

Vin7250
09/18/2007, 08:37 AM
that fluval is a nitrate factory, and probably does not offer even half of the movement required by your tank....your lights are too weak to house many if any corals (the wattage is needed to have further info). Id get an over flow (very cheap) some tubing (PVC) a pump 500gph roughly and a rubermaid tub and voila you have a fully funtioning sump that will be 10x better then the fluval. Thats just my opinion.

Prodd
09/19/2007, 04:55 AM
The Fluval shifts 2300 L/H (607 US GAL) and is cleaned at least fortnightly. Other than the sponge i only place activated carbon and a small amount of phoszorb which is changed regularly, just to keep down anything that may result from feeding (although everything is fed sparsely). I also have 4 Maxijet 500s and a Maxijet 750 to assist with water movement, is this not enough? Total wattage is only 160w, so i don't think i will have a lot of variety on the coral front.
I recently read a piece on D.I.Y. overflows that is essentially a piece of guttering siliconed to the inside of the tank, the idea seems sound so i'll give it a try. The only thing that put me off of sumps and overflows is power failure or a broken siphon. As i live on the first floor in a maisonette not only will i have a wet floor, but my neighbors gonna be pi**ed. Is there a way to make or buy a failsafe device?
Thanks for your opinions they are valued.

Vin7250
09/19/2007, 08:34 AM
yea a siphon break hole you drill in the return line

Prodd
09/19/2007, 09:12 AM
To clarify would this hole be drilled just above the pump and under the water level in the sump. So as the siphon breaks its feed the sump level drops exposing the hole and water is thrown back into the sump. Thereby keeping water going through the pump so as not to run dry and not sent back to the tank to overfill.
Am i correct?
Also what size sump would you recommend, should i just go as big as i can to increase total volume. Or is there an optimum tank/sump ratio?

Vin7250
09/19/2007, 09:32 AM
no just below the waterline in your return line in the tank that way if the power goes out as soon as the waterlevel drops in your tank past the hole it will cut the siphon off as for if the siphon breaking when your not home there shouldnt be too much water in your sump to pump out, but im sure there are ways to combat that.

Prodd
09/19/2007, 09:42 AM
Ah, i see. Thank you kindly.

God of thunder
09/19/2007, 09:56 AM
I dont have a a sump only an eheim cannister, it´s never caused any nitrate bombs for my as long as i clean it every other week. i think you can go along way with the cannister as long as you clean it regularly. But for some super reef tank, you´l propobly need a sump. your biggest consern would be the light factor.

Vin7250
09/19/2007, 10:12 AM
well the point of the sump is to have a place to put all of your equiptment as well as adding a ton of water volume (makes your tank more stable) and gives you a great place to put additives and carbon and phosban or whatever else your choose otherwise your putting heaters and protein skimmers and all sorts of stuff inside your tank. your best bet is to build a sump its relitively cheap compared to what you will spend in the long run to maintain your tank. Im sure canisters work ok but i never shoot for par!!

Prodd
09/19/2007, 10:30 AM
I can understand why the canister can be a problem, i have heard it before. It was just these guys that brought it back to mind. The canister is designed to turn ammonia and nitrite into nitrate asap as its less toxic. However, it's too good at its job when you have enough LR in the tank. I aspire to a full on reef, so i can see why others say don't use the canister. In saying that, it was the LFS that told me to use 2 canister filters. Being as ive now had it set up as SW for 7 months i think it 's a good idea to use to get started, but not in the long run. Ive been through 2 algae blooms the first not so bad, the second was quite frightening. I know its usual to se some in a new tank but my fear is that the next will be worse, besides a sump opens up new horizons and more possibilities. I may keep it and remove half the sponge, although a sump is needed.
As for the light i know i need more, costs in England are astronomical and Ive thought of buying from America as the £ is worth nearly $2USD but shipping adds to the cost. So when Ive got the cash my LFS will give me £50 discount and love me, until then I'd like to use non light-loving corals. Patience is key
Thanks for your thoughts it all helps.

Prodd
09/19/2007, 10:37 AM
My LFS told me to use Eheim as they're fantastic however, another LFS 10 miles away told me to use Fluval for the flow rates. Eheim are apparently a bit optimistic, so i did more research and just bought the one filter but bought it for the flow and ease of use.

wintercool97
09/19/2007, 10:46 AM
I think the rule for sumps is bigger the better! So as large as you can fit is best.

Dang $1,300 for a tank, that alone shows you'r love for this hobby. I don't blame you for not wanting to drill in risk of hurting your tank. I paid $300 for my used tank and that still sacred me bad when I drilled mine. I did drill though and it was fine:) You may want to look at this

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=444094&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

I felt like it was a little easier. Mine works like a charm! The external box was easy to build and silicone in place.

This is my first time trying to post pics here hope this works.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc304/wintercool97/overflowbox.jpg

Most people have such nice neat sump areas I am just more messy:)
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc304/wintercool97/fulltankshot.jpg

wintercool97
09/19/2007, 11:00 AM
Oh I just found this. I was trying to figure out how to post pics here and ran across this overflow picture. Fizz71 posted it about 2/3 of the way down page 2. looks interesting..

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59236&perpage=25&pagenumber=2

Prodd
09/19/2007, 11:07 AM
Wow, look at that under tank plumbing! I just love pipes wires and water! In England this hobby is astronomical in cost, eg a Rowaphos Reactor is $39.95 in USA same item in england is £114.99 which at current exchange rates = $200. Unfortunately shipping costs pushes an American purchase to close to that coverall cost. Personally, i can't help it i enjoy watching these fish growing and having a good life.


I also don't want to see three months wages go down the tube!

Prodd
09/19/2007, 11:20 AM
Thanx for the links and pics btw. its given me ideas to modify the DIY overflow that i saw posted elsewhere in RC.

wintercool97
09/19/2007, 11:36 AM
Your welcome:)

With all the prices so high there I think the DIY forum will become you're best friend!

Prodd
09/19/2007, 11:50 AM
LOL In fact i think it was the DIY section of RC i first stumbled upon!
Can you answer any of my other Questions, Your help would be much appreciated.

kipher
09/19/2007, 11:56 AM
It is my understanding that you should not drill through tempered glass, as it will shatter. I don't know if this is true for all tanks, but on my tank only the bottom piece of glass is tempered.

I use an external overflow similar to the one in the thread that Wintercool97 posted. However, that picture doesn't show the overflow the best. Another picture straight on from the back would be needed to understand its function better. So some searches on it and you should find some good examples. I personally prefer an external overflow with a U-tube. I've never had a siphon break on it (in a years worth of use). I'm sure that as long as you keep it clean you won't have problems with them. Also if you get get a u-tube that is clear as opposed the the thing made of PVC in that picture it would be much better. As you have to suck the air out of the tube with a piece of airline tubing and its easier done if you can see inside. Otherwise you could wind up with a taste of you tank water. (just use a long piece of airline tubing and you shouldn't have a problem here)

However one thing that is challenging with an external overflow is making them quite. Usually if you buy one from a manufacture, the pipe draining the external box into the sump is an open top piece of PVC. Those can be loud and sound like a toilet. I suggest you look up a Durso standpipe. I am currently installing one in my external overflow. So I can't quite comment on the success or failure with it. (However I am confident it will work out fine.)

I recommend that you do some reading on this website. You will learn lots about sumps and overflow boxes. Melev's Reef (http://www.melevsreef.com/) Just look under the the acrylic works & DIY section.

Prodd
09/19/2007, 12:14 PM
Have bookmarked the page. Thanks for the link it has explained lots!
Thank you kindly.

wintercool97
09/19/2007, 12:49 PM
I will try and answer some more Q's I am going to typ in CAPS so you can see my answer, I am not screaming ;)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10789724#post10789724 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Prodd

1. Any advice on my tank either things that maybe a time bomb Ive overlooked or recommendations that i should do?
2. Any ideas as to the variety of my Clownfish? I haven't seen them in any book or on the web.
SORRY I AM NO HELP HERE, BUT LOOK ON THIS SITE THEY HAVE ALOT OF GOOD PICS OF DIFFRENT FISH http://www.marinecenter.com

3. I understand that i could not keep hard corals because of lighting requirements ( a metal halide setup is being thought over as with discount its still £600 (roughly$1100))and the same with certain soft corals however, i was told that 'if it isn't green it doesn't photosynthesize therefore doesn't need hefty amounts of light'. Is this true?
NO, THERE ARE TONS OF PURPLE, BLUE, RED, AND SO ON.. THAT NEED LOTS OF LIGHT.

4. What is the difference between SPS and soft corals?

SOFT CORAL DON'T HAVE A HARD SKELETON LIKE SPS. AND USALY DON'T NEED MUCH LIGHT COMPARED TO LPS AND SPS. BUT DO NEED MORE THAT WHAT YOU GOT NOW I AM PRETTY SURE. YOU COULD GET A SUN CORAL, CONTRARY TO THEIR NAME THE DON'T NEED ANY LIGHT!

I appologise if these questions sound dumb but i wish to learn, and mean to research as much as possible before putting anything into the tank. Not only are these living creatures, but they cost an arm and a leg so i want them to thrive. Isn't this what it's about? Giving these lifeforms a good life? NEVER A DUMP QUESTION AND YES YOU HIT IT ON THE HEAD, KEEPING THEM HAPPY!

SO MY ANSWERES AREN'T GOING TO BE THE BEST BUT THE ARE A START I GUESS :)

Once again your professional thoughts are appreciated and valued.

wintercool97
09/19/2007, 12:52 PM
Sun coral do need to feed alot, forgot to say that.

Prodd
09/19/2007, 12:58 PM
Many thanks. I did think that sun coral needed there namesake, but it doesn't surprise me that a being that doesn't draw its energy from the sun may require it in other ways such as phytoplankton coral food.

BurntOutReefer
09/19/2007, 02:41 PM
sun coral is now also on the official Red List (endangered)...so please dont buy one, is it is VERY hard to keep and will die most likely.

wintercool97
09/19/2007, 03:09 PM
Wow I didn't know that, thanks for the heads up.

Prodd
09/19/2007, 04:00 PM
Don't fear, i stay clear of all species that i know should not be removed from their habitat.
Thanks for letting us know.