Yet Another "Look At My Sump Design"

[RuhiA]

I have posted my "limited space" stand design earlier and finally got around to come up with a "limited space" sump design of my own. My stand space is W:45 x D:15 1/2 x H:20 1/2". It has a an unobstructed 27" wide 18" high door opening in the center. I initially was contemplating getting the largest ready made sump and stick in there with an external skimmer. Due to the height restriction, I am considering AquaC EV-120 or even maybe 180. Then few more Scotches in between, now and then, I realize that it would NOT be a good idea to keep the skimmer outside the sump. Then the access would be an issue. So, I came up with a "solution" and ready hear critiques.

My tank has center-left back overflow (now defunct All-Glass 75g which was sitting in my basement over nine months). Sump is made out of two separate sections. A smaller left side section receives the tank return at the rear compartment flows under-over to a section where the sediment is collected with the help of gravity at the front of the compartment. A bulkhead takes the untreated water to an external pump for the skimmer. Skimmer is on the second and larger tank with a 10" high bubble eliminator baffle. EV-120 requires a 9-10" working water height so I can adjust the skimmer height for optimum skimming performance. This particular skimmer requires only 1/4" clearance to remove the collector cup. When the skimmer outlet screwed out, it is 4 1/2" wide so I can take it out from the sump with barely enough clearance in between the top of the sump and the inside the stand height. Being able to remove the skimmer was the limiting factor for the sump height. De-bubbled (is it a real word? :) ) water enter into the return compartment which was kept as large as possible to feed the external pump for tank return. By keeping the pumps external for easy access and to refrain heating up the water, I gain more sump volume then otherwise I could fit inside the stand. I also connect the two sections with an at least 1" straight pipe to balance both section levels in case of overflow from tank. If I were to get 2" water from my tank drained, it would be about 7 gallons and I have a total of over 10 gallons extra space over the water level in sump sections. At least in theory, I am safe in terms of inevitable "floods".

In terms of plumbing, I read and reread as much as I can to get an idea of where to start. So far, my intentions are to provide as freely as possible free flow from then tank. Skimmer pump outlet is to be split into two, one heading to tank return with a valve to adjust skimmer input flow (when the valve is closed, pump works 100% for the skimmer and allows me to reduce the flow to the skimmer down to 50%). By doing so I am hoping not back pressure the pump. Same principle is for the return pump as well. If I were to want to slow down the flow back to the display tank, I would adjust it by returning some of the output back to the sump without straining the pump. I intend to use flexible PVC (not flexible tube). Both sections will have lids to slow down the evaporation. Tank return chamber will have about almost 7 gallons for the return pump to suck freely.

I didn't intend to say this much when I started but here is a couple of pictures which might help to imagine what I hope to be able to do. I'd like to hear what you think with the concept, ups and downs, etc... Thanks for reading.

http://www.aydinpinar.com/private/pictures/Fish/StandDesign/sump-10a.jpg

http://www.aydinpinar.com/private/pictures/Fish/StandDesign/sump-10b.jpg

[DKreefkeepers]

The "solid sediment collector section" can be replaced with a filter sock. I have never seen a design like that with the slanted baffles...

[ScarabRa]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10987019#post10987019 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DKreefkeepers
The "solid sediment collector section" can be replaced with a filter sock. I have never seen a design like that with the slanted baffles...

Yes agreed on the baffles, are they over under?
or just impeading flow?

I think any water colum that is "slow Moving" sediment will "settel" out of.

Usually a longer large radius water area is used for sediment.

I "think" adding over under baffles, would actually keep the water moving at a pretty good clip, so Im not sure about the sediment falling out in that area.

Did you see this somewhere, or is this a theory you have?

Interested to see it in action.

[RuhiA]

Yes, indeed the idea is lifted from Van Der Elst, 1993 which is to eliminate the need for cleaning and replacing the mechanical filtration such as "sock" filter when combined with surface skimming and a good skimmer. In fact, in a reef aquarium it is not necessary to use a mechanical filter at all. Mechanical filters trap amino acids and carbohydrates in addition to particulate matter, and all of these things are decaying there with the entire volume of the tank flowing over them. The advantage of this method is that more particulate matter is available for filter feeders, and more surface active material remains in the water, which enhances the performance of the skimmer. With this system a mechanical filter is necessary every six months or so for maintenance purpose.

My intention is to keep the system KISSable (Keep It Simple Stupid). I was more hopping to get opinions in regards to keeping the pumps external and having two separate volumes rather than the slanted baffles (settling filter).

[ScarabRa]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10996000#post10996000 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RuhiA
Yes, indeed the idea is lifted from Van Der Elst, 1993 which is to eliminate the need for cleaning and replacing the mechanical filtration such as "sock" filter when combined with surface skimming and a good skimmer. In fact, in a reef aquarium it is not necessary to use a mechanical filter at all. Mechanical filters trap amino acids and carbohydrates in addition to particulate matter, and all of these things are decaying there with the entire volume of the tank flowing over them. The advantage of this method is that more particulate matter is available for filter feeders, and more surface active material remains in the water, which enhances the performance of the skimmer. With this system a mechanical filter is necessary every six months or so for maintenance purpose.

My intention is to keep the system KISSable (Keep It Simple Stupid). I was more hopping to get opinions in regards to keeping the pumps external and having two separate volumes rather than the slanted baffles (settling filter).


Everything else looks great, seperate sumps linked together, with a overflow pipe connection should make it stable water level wise, so no issues there. I think we both looked and only saw that which was "different" or "odd" thats why we both mentioned it specifically.

I see you can model fairly well too, what app is that from?

Yeah, the new way on propigation tanks for corals is no mechanical filter, or skimmer...lol. All these new theories need a second look, and a sometimes given a chance for a fisrt look for that matter. And on that note, thanks for the source on the baffles...google here i come.

[rustybucket145]

No mechanical filters here :D Been that way for years. Instead of an over/under baffle I used a left/right baffle system on my old sump which gives the water a long run but in a small space.

[RuhiA]

what app is that from?

It's "google sketchit". I cannot say it is easy to use and very limited but free... it takes some getting used to at first few tries.

Thanks for the comments. I think I'll be a bit more confident now before I start cutting since it appears like there is nothing wrong with what I wan to do, at least in theory. I'll make the outside walls and bottoms with 3/8" and inner dividers with 1/4" acrylic.