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View Full Version : Baffled by baffles...sumps design need input


IPT
10/20/2007, 05:01 PM
Ok, I am getting ready to make some baffles for 2 sumps. One will run a Tunze 9010 and has very few if any micro bubbles to deal with. The other is for a Euro reef RS 100 which does spit out a fair amount of micro bubbles.

I was thinking about the common baffle design I've seen and wondered about the design. Why does the first barrier have the water flow over and not under? Seems to me like the bubbles will rise or at least be in the upper part of the water column in the skimmer chamber. Wouldn't it be better to have water move from the bottom of the skimmer chamber and then over the seond baffle? From the get go you'd be starting with less bubbles or am I missing something?

Also, what is the best distance between baffles for a bubble trap?

Lastly, what do you think about having lip blacking 2/3rds of the baffle so flow is forced over a smaller area? You could dose Kalk and Part b of two part here where the flow would be higher than if spread over the entire surface area of the baffle?

IPT
10/20/2007, 05:02 PM
I meant blocking 2/3rds not "blacking". One day I'll start proof reading..

IPT
10/20/2007, 10:01 PM
No one? I can't be the first person to think about these things. I've seen tons of DIY sumps and baffles on RC. Anyone? A little help?

latazyo
10/20/2007, 10:51 PM
you're right about having more under's than overs

that is the way I do mine

I think most people do over under over because then they can use the baffle to make separate sections (i.e. if you want a "fuge" in the sump you can use the baffles to hold the sand back)

anyways, having more unders is better

I am learning from my design and upgrading my pump that not having enough room between baffles is causing really fast water movement and bubbles are just plowing through it, so give yourself at least 1" or 1.5" between the baffles, dont make the same mistake as me

IPT
10/21/2007, 12:46 AM
Thanks - I was hoping to be abe to learn from others experiences. I will probably do a RDSB in there so under is OK w/ me. Iust need to design some place into it with high flow to dump Kalk and Alkalinity additions.

ScarabRa
10/21/2007, 12:00 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11017671#post11017671 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IPT
Thanks - I was hoping to be abe to learn from others experiences. I will probably do a RDSB in there so under is OK w/ me. Iust need to design some place into it with high flow to dump Kalk and Alkalinity additions.

I add chemicals to the Return pump chamber, cant get faster flow than 600gal per hour ...lol

as for the baffles, they are normally designed for water level control, the reason for there channeling can vary for need, so thats why almost every baffle design is different.

Some people design the width for a sponge/mechanical filter to slide right in snugly.

Some make deeper areas of water for a refugum,

Some actually build the skimmer IN TO the sump.



So theres no RIGHT way but there ARE wrong ways. I would suggest posting a picture/drawing of your planned design. Then we can all offer comments on it from our experiences.


IMHO if the return chamber is slow moving water "IN it" usually the bubbles will dissipate out before they are sucked through the return pump.

I have a 20gal sump on one system with zero baffles. Water comes in one side, and skimmers in the middle, and return pump is on the other side, and I get zero bubbles through, unless the water level is low of course...lolol

and to the other guy...
".......NOBODY PUTS BABY IN THE CORNER......" ROFL
TOO FUNY
NICE Avitar to yo!

IPT
10/21/2007, 11:07 PM
Okay, here we go. I am building two of them. Using glass for baffles. It'll be a 29 for the Tunze, and a 30L for the Euroreef (a 50 breeder, and 75 gal disply respectively).

The euroreef one will have three baffles because it spits out bubbles. The Tunze not so much. Not looking to dump chemicals by the pumps because I have Ca buildup issues.

May add some LR near the RDSB. If do add a light down there then I'll put some rock. Pretty basic I think.

The double baffle will have a cutout from part of it's lenght to increase flow rate there.

I am open to suggestions.



http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/148976sump.jpg

IPT
10/22/2007, 09:55 PM
Guess she's good to go. I'll be doign a wet run tonight to see how much the sump levels raise when all the pumps and skimmer are shut down. Then I'll be able to determine my baffle heights and away we go.

ScarabRa
10/23/2007, 01:29 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11030331#post11030331 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IPT
Guess she's good to go. I'll be doign a wet run tonight to see how much the sump levels raise when all the pumps and skimmer are shut down. Then I'll be able to determine my baffle heights and away we go.

Looks ok in the diagram, is the middle part also a fuge?

ALSO,

your in ALASKA??

theres a LFS up there? Is it 8 hour sun cycle where you are, or are you all extra long light periods n stuff.

IPT
10/23/2007, 02:44 PM
May or may not become a fuge. We'll see.

We have Petco :)
There is another store or two but ingeneral they are fairly lame. Man it's times like this I miss living in NY! ThankGod for the internet and mail-order.

Yeah, we get down to about 5 hours of day light and 19hrs darkness in the dead of winter. The Northern lights make it worth it though! Of course in the summer we get the opposite. It actually never really gets dark, more just twightlight. I ahve left for hikes at 11 PM! It's fun if your like me and like variety and change. Of course you realize your not on the top of the food chain up here too so hiking is always an adventure! (at least we don't have to worry about Box Jellyfish or Man-o-war :) )