Help with my 6200 - cannot make it go

[Greg Hiller]

One of my 6200's that I've had running for about 2 years seems to be having problems. I carefully cleaned any calcium deposits out, and the propeller seems to spin very freely when I rotate it manually, but when I plug it in it the controller just gives the screaming alarm sound.

Any ideas?

[Lutefisk]

Greg,

You might already know this since you've been running your pumps for 2 years, but ...

There are two places that can be overlooked if you aren't used to cleaning them.

A) The bearing at the bottom of the impeller - There is a plastic bearing that fits at the bottom of the impeller that must be cleaned.

There are three possibilities:
#1 - It is stuck at the bottom of the impeller hole. You can use a long screw to slightly thread into the bearing to pull it out.

#2 - It is stock to the bottom of the impeller. When I first started working with Streams I thought that little piece at the bottom of the impeller was supposed to be stuck there. Often there can be a calcium buildup between the bearing and the impeller and it will get stuck to the impeller. Use careful prying and the application of vinegar (or other acid) to separate them.

#3 - If you can easily separate the bearing from the impeller and the bearing easily rotates on the impeller than everything is OK

B) The cooling passage through the center of the impeller is clogged. If you had any calcium deposits inside the pump this will be one of the spots with the greatest problems (due to the impeller heat). I use a small plastic tool to loosen these deposits and soaking in dilute acid or vinegar to clean them.


In my experience if the screaming alarm is sounding immediately you most likely have a stuck bearing or one with significant deposits.




Paul

[drawman]

good info, glad to know that

[rvitko]

It can also be a bad motor, especially if it locked up and overheated at one point. Try everything paul suggested and if that doesn't work send it in.

[Greg Hiller]

I worked on it for a while. Paul was right, the bearing at the bottom was also stuck in place. I was eventually able to free the bearing, and clean it completely. When I put everything back in it seemed to shutter a bit then start to work for a few minutes. The alarm kept going off every few minutes. After about 30 minutes of that, now it 'shutters' every few seconds, it only seems to spin free for a few seconds.

I think it's dead, Jim. I'll try and figure out where to send it.

[Greg Hiller]

I worked on it for a while. Paul was right, the bearing at the bottom was also stuck in place. I was eventually able to free the bearing, and clean it completely. When I put everything back in it seemed to shutter a bit then start to work for a few minutes. The alarm kept going off every few minutes. After about 30 minutes of that, now it 'shutters' every few seconds, it only seems to spin free for a few seconds.

I think it's dead, Jim. I'll try and figure out where to send it.

[Greg Hiller]

Hmmm, searched around for an address to send it to. The only thing I could find was this, from the Tunze site:

TUNZE USA LLC
305 Victor St
78753 Austin

Does this mean Austin, Tx? Is this where it should go?

[Lutefisk]

Greg,

If you have a second 6200 you might try a quick impeller swap before you send it in. Obviously, if it works with a known good impeller but not with the original, the motor and driver are good and there is still a problem with the impeller.

If you have one of the older model impellers there are several possibilities we haven't talked about. (The older model impellers have a white plastic piece between the "propeller" and the magnet.) If you followed Roger's instructions in his sticky at the top of the forum, you should have completely disassembled the impeller assembly including the removal of the two small black plastic "brakes." I'm going by memory here, something that gets more dangerous every year, but that white piece should smoothly rotate on the impeller a fraction of revolution and the "brakes" should extend when rotated in one direction and retract in the other.

Thinking about shuddering, is there a red O-ring at the base of the impeller thrust bearing (the plastic piece that was stuck)?

Also, when the impeller is fully inserted into the motor block there should be a collar (bearing) that sits flush with the face of the motor block. In other words, when looking at the impeller sitting in the motor block the amount of side to side wiggling should be minimal.

To bring up an obvious point - I assume the "propeller" is not badly damaged.

And, to follow up on something from my previous post, I assume that the hole up through the center of the impeller is completely clean (similar to what you'd find on a traditional pump where the shaft would go).

And, to finish up, yes, it is Austin Texas. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1241409&highlight=austin

Tunze USA
305 Victor St
Austin TX 78753

I'm sure Roger will be here soon with the definitive answer.


Paul

[Lutefisk]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11239531#post11239531 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Greg Hiller
...

I think it's dead, Jim. ...

BTW - appreciate the Star Trek allusion :)

[rvitko]

Address is correct but I agree with Lutefisk. Usually with an electrical issue the pump doesn't work or spins very, very slowly.

[Greg Hiller]

>If you have a second 6200 you might try a quick impeller swap before you send it in.<

I do, and will tonight and report back.

>If you have one of the older model impellers there are several possibilities we haven't talked about. (The older model impellers have a white plastic piece between the "propeller" and the magnet.) <

I'll take a look tonight.

> that white piece should smoothly rotate on the impeller a fraction of revolution and the "brakes" should extend when rotated in one direction and retract in the other.<

Yes, I know it does that. That much I remember, the little 'brakes' extend smoothly.

>Thinking about shuddering, is there a red O-ring at the base of the impeller thrust bearing (the plastic piece that was stuck)?<

Yes, I found that O-ring and returned it to it's proper position when I took everything apart.

>Also, when the impeller is fully inserted into the motor block there should be a collar (bearing) that sits flush with the face of the motor block. In other words, when looking at the impeller sitting in the motor block the amount of side to side wiggling should be minimal.<

Everything seems to spin very smoothly when put back together, with no excessive side to side wiggling.

>To bring up an obvious point - I assume the "propeller" is not badly damaged.<

Nope, seems in perfect condition to me.

>And, to follow up on something from my previous post, I assume that the hole up through the center of the impeller is completely clean (similar to what you'd find on a traditional pump where the shaft would go).<

I believe it is completely clean, yes.

I'll check stuff out and if no luck I'll fill out the form and the equipment to you.

[Greg Hiller]

Swapped out impellers, no luck. Impeller from 'bad' stream works in good stream. Impeller from good stream does not make bad stream work. Tried swapping the little motor 'pots' (the heavy things), same thing as with swapping on impellers.

In the mail to you tomorrow.

[Lutefisk]

As an engineer, even a bio-chem, you obviously know what that means :-/

The good news is that Roger does good work.


Paul