InADream
11/11/2007, 09:07 PM
This is a DIY project for a sulphur denitrator. The idea for this project is to make a sulphur denitrator at a fraction of the cost. Now I know this is not the same thing as the commercial unit but they work and best of all YOU made it.
I would just like to thank John at Fish And Other Ichthy Stuff from Oldsmar,Fl, the piping and overall workings of this project are from him. I went to him with the idea of using the phosban reactor and he told me everything I needed to know, the piping was a little different from what he said, but it works.
The majority of the parts list can be found at his shop, FAOIS, and a few things came from Lowes, and Ace Hardware. I will try and list the prices to the best of my knowledge.
As always with a DIY project, do this at your own risk..
Also if anyone has any ideas or would like to improve on this project, be my guest. Just please share with everyone.
Parts List:
Can be Found At FAOIS
1. Phosban Reactor 39.00
1. MaxiJet 400 13.50
1. Aqualifter & Prefilter 20.00
3 Ft. 1/2 ID Tubing 3.00
2. 1/2" thread x 1/4" Jaco Fitting 4.00
Sulphur & Carbon Media CALL
Can be Found At ACE
2. 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 Barbed Tees ACE 3.00
1. 1/2 x 5/8 Barbed Reducer ACE 1.50
4. Hose Clamps for 1/2" Tube ACE 4.00
Can be Found At LOWES
1. 24" Irrigation Tube 1/2" LOWES 1.00
25Ft. 1/4" OD x .170 ID Tubing LOWES 2.50
1. 1/4" Ball Valve LOWES 2.00
1. Check Valve MINE 0.00
Without the media the total cost for this project was under $100 if my math is correct its like 95.00. I received the media from a great guy for a cheap price, Thanks Again.
Step 1:
Fill the reactor with sulphur to the end of the label on the side of the reactor, then top off the reactor with calcium media. Now put the lid on the reactor and make sure it is tight.
Step2:
Cut the irrigation tubing into (2) 2 inch pieces, and press the tubing onto the bottom barb of both 1/2 Tees. Next, remove the flexible elbows from the top of the reactor and place both elbows onto one side of each Tee. Now insert a JACO fitting into each elbow and clamp down, then press the tees onto the barbs on the lid, making sure that the elbows face in opposite directions.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/OdessaDan/11-10-07_1327.jpg
Step 3:
Take the 5/8" ID tube and cut a piece 3" long, place the piece over the inlet part of the maxijet and using a hose clamp tighten it down. Insert the 1/2" x 5/8" barbed reducer on the other end. Take your maxijet and place it at the base of the reactor. Cut 2 pieces of the 1/2" ID tube long enough to reach the top of the reactor, making sure there are no sharp bends to restrict flow. Insert the hose into the open end of the Tee. The hose that is coming from the inlet of the maxijet, (with the reducer on it), connects to the tee that is located on the edge of the lid. The hose coming from the outlet of the maxijet connects to the tee that is connected to the center barb... This way the waters is being sucked in to the maxijet and then it shoots down the tube and up through the media..
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/OdessaDan/11-10-07_1326.jpg
Step 4:
Now we need to setup the aqualifter, run a 1/4" hose from the prefilter to the inlet of the aqualifter and then the other end to the JACO fitting on the inlet to the maxijet. That is the Tee closet to the edge of the lid. Insert a piece of 1/4" tube in the the other JACO fitting, about 6" down that tube insert the check valve. Cut the rest of the tubing to desired length and finish it off with a 1/4" ball valve. I also tie wrapped the prefilter to a piece of live rock to ensure it doesnt float or suck air.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/OdessaDan/11-10-07_1325.jpg
Now that the reactor is setup comes the most difficult part of the entire project, Priming the Unit. What I did was let the chamber fill up as much as possible, making sure the ball valve on the end is wide open. After the reactor has filled up and the water is running out the exit, turn on the maxijet. Next what I did was I squeezed the inlet house running to the powerhead. It took maybe 3 or 4 squeezes before the tube filled up and the unit began working. Once the unit has primed and only after all the air has been released, it will not lose its prime. If it does lose its prime there is air trapped somewhere.
I have removed the power cord several times and all the water does is stop, there is very little air in there and it always stays primed.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/OdessaDan/11-09-07_2209.jpg
The next big challenge is removing the air, I just let the unit run for the night and by the morning most of the air was gone, maybe someone else has an idea to get the air out faster and better. I am still seeing a few stray bubbles here and there..
With this reactor, AIR is your enemy. If there is air in the unit it will not cycle properly and I believe it will create the wrong type of bacteria, thus hurting the system.. I could be wrong though.
I have the reactor set to 1 drip per sec for the time being I am currently looking into the exact method to increasing the flow. I will have a complete workup on my water done on monday or tuesday. As soon as I can get to FAOIS to have it done.
I think after The effluent reads 0 nitrates I need to up the flow.
Now that the reactor is up and running it is just a waiting game till it cycles and begins to work, (Hopefully). I will update this thread as much as possible and try and answer every question I can.
If you have any questions please PM ME, or ask in this thread.
If you are ever in the Tampa Bay Area you have to stop by and see John at Fish & Other Ichthy Stuff, you will be amazed!!!
Dream
I would just like to thank John at Fish And Other Ichthy Stuff from Oldsmar,Fl, the piping and overall workings of this project are from him. I went to him with the idea of using the phosban reactor and he told me everything I needed to know, the piping was a little different from what he said, but it works.
The majority of the parts list can be found at his shop, FAOIS, and a few things came from Lowes, and Ace Hardware. I will try and list the prices to the best of my knowledge.
As always with a DIY project, do this at your own risk..
Also if anyone has any ideas or would like to improve on this project, be my guest. Just please share with everyone.
Parts List:
Can be Found At FAOIS
1. Phosban Reactor 39.00
1. MaxiJet 400 13.50
1. Aqualifter & Prefilter 20.00
3 Ft. 1/2 ID Tubing 3.00
2. 1/2" thread x 1/4" Jaco Fitting 4.00
Sulphur & Carbon Media CALL
Can be Found At ACE
2. 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 Barbed Tees ACE 3.00
1. 1/2 x 5/8 Barbed Reducer ACE 1.50
4. Hose Clamps for 1/2" Tube ACE 4.00
Can be Found At LOWES
1. 24" Irrigation Tube 1/2" LOWES 1.00
25Ft. 1/4" OD x .170 ID Tubing LOWES 2.50
1. 1/4" Ball Valve LOWES 2.00
1. Check Valve MINE 0.00
Without the media the total cost for this project was under $100 if my math is correct its like 95.00. I received the media from a great guy for a cheap price, Thanks Again.
Step 1:
Fill the reactor with sulphur to the end of the label on the side of the reactor, then top off the reactor with calcium media. Now put the lid on the reactor and make sure it is tight.
Step2:
Cut the irrigation tubing into (2) 2 inch pieces, and press the tubing onto the bottom barb of both 1/2 Tees. Next, remove the flexible elbows from the top of the reactor and place both elbows onto one side of each Tee. Now insert a JACO fitting into each elbow and clamp down, then press the tees onto the barbs on the lid, making sure that the elbows face in opposite directions.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/OdessaDan/11-10-07_1327.jpg
Step 3:
Take the 5/8" ID tube and cut a piece 3" long, place the piece over the inlet part of the maxijet and using a hose clamp tighten it down. Insert the 1/2" x 5/8" barbed reducer on the other end. Take your maxijet and place it at the base of the reactor. Cut 2 pieces of the 1/2" ID tube long enough to reach the top of the reactor, making sure there are no sharp bends to restrict flow. Insert the hose into the open end of the Tee. The hose that is coming from the inlet of the maxijet, (with the reducer on it), connects to the tee that is located on the edge of the lid. The hose coming from the outlet of the maxijet connects to the tee that is connected to the center barb... This way the waters is being sucked in to the maxijet and then it shoots down the tube and up through the media..
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/OdessaDan/11-10-07_1326.jpg
Step 4:
Now we need to setup the aqualifter, run a 1/4" hose from the prefilter to the inlet of the aqualifter and then the other end to the JACO fitting on the inlet to the maxijet. That is the Tee closet to the edge of the lid. Insert a piece of 1/4" tube in the the other JACO fitting, about 6" down that tube insert the check valve. Cut the rest of the tubing to desired length and finish it off with a 1/4" ball valve. I also tie wrapped the prefilter to a piece of live rock to ensure it doesnt float or suck air.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/OdessaDan/11-10-07_1325.jpg
Now that the reactor is setup comes the most difficult part of the entire project, Priming the Unit. What I did was let the chamber fill up as much as possible, making sure the ball valve on the end is wide open. After the reactor has filled up and the water is running out the exit, turn on the maxijet. Next what I did was I squeezed the inlet house running to the powerhead. It took maybe 3 or 4 squeezes before the tube filled up and the unit began working. Once the unit has primed and only after all the air has been released, it will not lose its prime. If it does lose its prime there is air trapped somewhere.
I have removed the power cord several times and all the water does is stop, there is very little air in there and it always stays primed.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/OdessaDan/11-09-07_2209.jpg
The next big challenge is removing the air, I just let the unit run for the night and by the morning most of the air was gone, maybe someone else has an idea to get the air out faster and better. I am still seeing a few stray bubbles here and there..
With this reactor, AIR is your enemy. If there is air in the unit it will not cycle properly and I believe it will create the wrong type of bacteria, thus hurting the system.. I could be wrong though.
I have the reactor set to 1 drip per sec for the time being I am currently looking into the exact method to increasing the flow. I will have a complete workup on my water done on monday or tuesday. As soon as I can get to FAOIS to have it done.
I think after The effluent reads 0 nitrates I need to up the flow.
Now that the reactor is up and running it is just a waiting game till it cycles and begins to work, (Hopefully). I will update this thread as much as possible and try and answer every question I can.
If you have any questions please PM ME, or ask in this thread.
If you are ever in the Tampa Bay Area you have to stop by and see John at Fish & Other Ichthy Stuff, you will be amazed!!!
Dream