white bumps on acro

[whitetiprs]

The white bumps are barely visible and look like little flecks of "fluff" I can not get a good picture of them. They are on a frag that I got about a week ago. I did a dip of interceptor, lugols, and FWE before putting it into the display since I do not currently have room for a QT setup. Any Ideas?

[whitetiprs]

The white bumps are barely visible and look like little flecks of "fluff" I can not get a good picture of them. They are on a frag that I got about a week ago. I did a dip of interceptor, lugols, and FWE before putting it into the display since I do not currently have room for a QT setup. Any Ideas?

[flyyyguy]

pics please

[mano1192]

sounds like the dredded bugs!

[flyyyguy]

not really....but hard to say without a pic or better description

[SENSIREEF]

I would probably have cancer too if I was exposed to so many variables. Man... Why don't you just use one solid brand that will do both for you. First off, FWE only targets standard planaria. With all new frags, you should only dip with TMPCC and maybe if needed go with a dose of interceptor. There is no reason to dip FWE and Lugols. Just dip only with TMPCC and maybe interceptor. I have a large grow out system, and I only use TMPCC and interceptor, and I am free of all Red bugs and AEFW's. I also don't have cancer white bumps for over treatment. Also if you are dipping and practicing proper quarantine techniques, you should be also dipping again within 14 days. Before placing in a main display or tank that is free of these parasites and pathogens. JUST SO YOU KNOW. Good Luck.

[jjmcat]

I wouldnt ever FW dip acros.

[SDguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11210257#post11210257 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jjmcat
I wouldnt ever FW dip acros.

FWE = Flat Worm Exit by Salifert, not freshwater dip :)

SENSI - So what chemical in TMPCC specifically kills/stuns/causes them to fall off, AEFW, that the iodine in lugol's does not?

[jjmcat]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11211084#post11211084 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SDguy
FWE = Flat Worm Exit by Salifert, not freshwater dip :)

SENSI - So what chemical in TMPCC specifically kills/stuns/causes them to fall off, AEFW, that the iodine in lugol's does not?

DOH:D My bad.

[SENSIREEF]

Well its not so much that it contains a magic potion that one or the other contains, I just know personally that, TMPCC has been much more effective for me over the past 6 years in dipping corals. I have tried them all, and nothing short of Fresh water dips and Fluke tabs, works better than TMPCC, but keep in mind you must do it twice, not only one time. You will have to practice proper quarantining procedures. I also cut off all incoming frags from there bases, or if I know that I’m picking up new corals "which is almost every other day", I speak with my supplier and ask them to be unmounted. That way I don’t have to worry about the EGGS, which those little bastards produce. This just has been my experience and the other brands will work also, I have just had better results with TMPCC. I do one pump the first dosage for one cup of tank water, then in 14 days I do 2 pumps of tank water. This has proven very effective for me as I am now parasite free, along with interceptor dips as well from time to time if need be, but is rare, as more often I choose where I’m getting my frags from. I have read a great article of FW dips as one hobbyist, actually broke down the time frames for safe and unsafe conditions, as you must match the temp and pH, but he actually documented the time frames for specific species, where this is now, beats me, but it was a great article. He would actually take it upwards to 60 seconds roughly, right before he witnessed signs of zooanthelle expel, and then he would take it out and place it in low flow and light, and let it recover, at this point the coral was so stressed out, that in its recovery it would actually pick up free floating zooanthelle in a heavily populated system, and would completely change colors when fully back to health. Crazy concept. Never tried it; just found it interesting. In any case that’s my two cents, hope it helps. Happy Thanksgiving

[SDguy]

Thanks for the reply/info :)

[whitetiprs]

I have tryed to get a pic but they just dont seem to be visible in the shot. The spots do move with the current and the best description I can give is that that it looks like dry flaky skin. I did test the water last night and found that the Alk was low about half of the normal level.

[whitetiprs]

I do usually use TMPCC instead of lugols but I ran out last time and have put off ordering more. Will be ordering more shortly.

[flyyyguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11214518#post11214518 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SENSIREEF
Well its not so much that it contains a magic potion that one or the other contains, I just know personally that, TMPCC has been much more effective for me over the past 6 years in dipping corals. I have tried them all, and nothing short of Fresh water dips and Fluke tabs, works better than TMPCC, but keep in mind you must do it twice, not only one time. You will have to practice proper quarantining procedures. I also cut off all incoming frags from there bases, or if I know that I’m picking up new corals "which is almost every other day", I speak with my supplier and ask them to be unmounted. That way I don’t have to worry about the EGGS, which those little bastards produce. This just has been my experience and the other brands will work also, I have just had better results with TMPCC. I do one pump the first dosage for one cup of tank water, then in 14 days I do 2 pumps of tank water. This has proven very effective for me as I am now parasite free, along with interceptor dips as well from time to time if need be, but is rare, as more often I choose where I’m getting my frags from. I have read a great article of FW dips as one hobbyist, actually broke down the time frames for safe and unsafe conditions, as you must match the temp and pH, but he actually documented the time frames for specific species, where this is now, beats me, but it was a great article. He would actually take it upwards to 60 seconds roughly, right before he witnessed signs of zooanthelle expel, and then he would take it out and place it in low flow and light, and let it recover, at this point the coral was so stressed out, that in its recovery it would actually pick up free floating zooanthelle in a heavily populated system, and would completely change colors when fully back to health. Crazy concept. Never tried it; just found it interesting. In any case that’s my two cents, hope it helps. Happy Thanksgiving

very interesting.

would love a link to that article if you could find it

[five.five-six]

i am affraid he has been banned

[SDguy]

Oooops :)

[waterfaller1]

Revive is what worked for me with AEFW's. They melt in the stuff.