Polyps

[Varkalis]

How should i care for them? What kind of lighting do they need, and what should i feed them?

[Sk8r]

I'm taking it you mean zoanthids, little button-like things with eyelashes?
Moderate lighting. Set their rock in your rockwork. These polyps contain microorganisms which photosynthesize light and produce sugars that feed the host organism....these are called zooxanthellae [zo-zan-THEL-ee]. If the polyps start spitting brown mucus, this is ejection of the zooxanthellae, and this is bad, usually involving too much light: if this starts, immediately get them into the shadow of a ledge...some zoas are low-light, some medium, and unless you know what you have, you have to watch them.
Your feeding of your fish will produce fish poo, which bristleworms will reduce to much finer stuff, and that will feed them. They have a mouth, and you will see them take in stuff that is very small. Some people target-feed their zoas, but when I had them, I used the 'fish-food' method and they grew quite well.

PS: your sig says FOWLR, but as you now have a coral, you are officially a reef. ;)

[Varkalis]

I need to change that, and thanks for all the info. I just got them from my LFS, and only spent $10 for a frag that has about 8 on it. Not bad i think. This is my first frag!!!! They are a bright green in the middle, and a fleshy color on the outside. I have been trying to find out what their names are.

[Sk8r]

THey may be button polyps: they are brown and green. They make a brilliant show under actinic light, and are a great start for someone starting out. They will multiply by extending their fleshy base out onto the rock and growing another 'bud.' Once you get a whole rock covered with them, they may head for another rock. You can put a bare rock next to a rapidly-growing colony, then use a razor to sever the 'new' rock from the old, let them set in your tank a bit and heal the cut, then trade the new polyp rock to somebody for something else of another species. Many reef shops will happily trade or give store credit for specimens.

[Varkalis]

I would use the razor to cut the polyps, between the two rocks? Also, I tested the water from the LFS, and wow their water was horrible!!!! Their nitrates were around close to 160.

I think they will be more happy in my tank.

About how long until they do start to spread?

[Chibils]

That varies from specimen to specimen; you may be able to measure their growth in weeks, whereas other times it may take months. In general, though, zoanthids are fast growers.

[Varkalis]

thanks for the info, and sk8r, your cat looks very loved!!!!! My cat is the same way, and sleeps alot.

[Sk8r]

Yeah, she is spoiled to the max---has an allergy to corn and half the planet, so has to have a special food that isn't kind to her waistline, but she's queen of all she surveys. Just ask her!

And yes, razor between the rocks.
One thing about zoas, they are more tolerant of nitrate than most corals, but it never hurts corals to have really good water.

I would, however, consider trading somewhere that doesn't have high nitrate...with the caveat that 'bag' water may not represent the reading in the store tank, because it changes by reason of the creature bagged in it, etc, still, that's pretty sacary.

[riley290]

Just reading through here and would like to see if I can get a clarification.

Sk8r, you mentioned polyps expelling brown mucus as a zooanthelle loss but I've seen my polyps expelling brown stringy material which I assume to be feces. They coloration has not changed and they are full and open, just making sure there is a difference between the two excretions.

[Varkalis]

What is an exceptable reading for nitrates when you have only softies. My tank used to never read above ten, but i moved my tank and now it will not go below 20ppm.
Is this way to high?

[demonsp]

Heres a great site. Gl

http://www.asira.org/caresheets

[demonsp]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11218929#post11218929 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Varkalis
What is an exceptable reading for nitrates when you have only softies. My tank used to never read above ten, but i moved my tank and now it will not go below 20ppm.
Is this way to high?

Way to high for any coral. How long ago did you change over and how did you do this.

Did you use the LR or add any new LR?
Did you use the LS or add any new LS?
Did you use as much of the old water as possible?
What size did you upgrade to?
Did you thread in here, Changeing tanks any advice?

[Varkalis]

What happened was the live rock fell, and i had to take everything out to save what i could. And because i had everything out, i figured that it was a good time to move the tank.

Its the same tank, and LR/LS. I did use all the old water, plus i needed to add a couple gallons.

I had to do a 50% water change the next day, and then everyday after that i did a 25%water change until i got the nitrates down. I think it took 5 days to get the water a 20ppm nitrates.

Now i cant figure out whats going on with the nitrates. its been almost 2 months now. I did add about 5lbs of rubble to my HOB, and a 3lb base rock to the display tank. I did that about two weeks ago now. I also just got rid of two damsels, so now i am down to a diamond goby, and one small damsel. i was hoping this would help.

[demonsp]

To many water changes. Never change anymore then 33% at any one time within 1 week. This causeing a recycle from mini to major. Sto changeing water. If you need to then do a 25% change followed by weekly 10% changes untill numbers are in check.

My guess is the SB caused the high nitrate from the mixing up.
Was the SB clean or dirty with algea and dead areas?

[Varkalis]

No the SB was great. My goby does a good job keeping it tidy.

also if i have a 29 gallon tank, with about 35lbs of LR, and a 2-3in SB, would i subtract that volume from the 29gallons, or do i just change 10% of 29g?

[Varkalis]

I realize that i have been messing up with the water changes now. I have been doing 5-6 gallon changes every week trying to keep the nitrates down. I know that i dont over feed, because i feed once every other day. Could the type of food i am feeding cause nitrates to go up.

I am feeding frozen mysis and brine shrimp. I cut the cube into 1/4 pieces and feed one of those 1/4 pieces every other day.

[demonsp]

Go by the size tanks rated at . I think the excessive water changes my be at fault.
Do you use RO water?

[Varkalis]

No i used distilled. i am waiting until tax returns until i get a RO/DI system. I cant wait because i know that it will be easier to keep the water stable with the RO water.

[demonsp]

Distilled fine.
What do you use for CUC?
And you say there is no major algea present?

[Varkalis]

I have one small patch of green hair algae, but its about the size of a nickel. Other than that, there is no trace of algae.

My CUC is getting smaller and smaller. All my bigger turbo snails died, i took them out right away. (stupid things always fall off the glass) I have 4 Green leg crabs, and two small snails.
i am planning on getting more.

[demonsp]

Back off on changes and monitor levels. Whene they start droping then start the 25% with weekly 10% changes.
If this doesnt do it then you have another problem like low flow around rockwork or SB not deep enough , water source , bad test kit.

[Varkalis]

what do you mean, when you say "then start the 25% with weekly 10% changes"

should i not do a water change for two weeks and then do a 25% change?

[demonsp]

Yea wait a few weeks the do a 25% change foloowed by weekly 10% changes and whene readings level out then 10% weekly or biweekly or 20% monthy. Really depends on amount of stock and flow and skimmer how much and how often the changes should be.

Testing the best way to monitor your maintance and feeding from getting ahead of you.

[Varkalis]

I will try that, thanks for the info. Why is it so hard on the tank when you change too much water? i thought that new water would be better.