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View Full Version : buying used acrylic tank - what to look for


springerhd
11/28/2007, 08:48 AM
Hey everyone. I found a 120g corner acrylic tank I'm interested in getting. The seller says its a tenecor tank, 36x36x30, about 4-5 yrs old. He's the second owner. Also says its scratched up a bit, including 3 deep scratches (haven't seen it in person so I don't know exactly how deep). Is there anything I should look for on this tank to:
1. ensure all the edges are still properly bonded and there's no risk of a leak
2. make sure it is a tenecor tank like he says
3. make sure the scratches are repairable

I would also be interested in doing some drilling on this tank. I've been told drilling acrylic is easier than glass. Can it be done with a normal hole saw and 18V drill or does it require special bits or a more powerful (corded) drill? Any concerns about how close you can drill to welded or bent edges?

Thanks!

Blown 346
11/28/2007, 09:51 AM
I would check for everything you have listed as well as where the corners are bonded. Check for stress cracks, there will be some, but none should be out of normal size.

Also make sure the tank holds water, I would have him throw the hose in it if all goes well just to make sure. It would be hell if you bought it and got it home only for it to leak.

Drilling a acrylic tank is very easy. I believe you can use a acrylic hole saw or something similar, but go slow as not to burn it. I would stay within a few inches of the corners just for structural integrity. I would use a Corded drill as it have the power you will want.

springerhd
11/28/2007, 10:03 AM
Never had an acrylic tank before - what do normal stress cracks look like versus something to be worried about? Is there anything in particular to look for where the corners are bonded? That's a good idea about having him fill it. We're in a bad drought around here though, I'll have to ask him how bad it is at his place.

Is an acrylic hole saw different that one for wood? I'm glad you said something since I would have figured higher speed would be better. I can set my cordless on a low speed high torque setting which may work (dewalt 18V, can drill some steel on that setting). Also just heard about these vortech pumps which I may go with instead of drilling for a CL.

Thanks!

Drag Racer
11/28/2007, 10:33 AM
I've drilled thinner 1/4 acrilic before and any pressure of speed causes the plastic to melt back together and deform a bit. Ive never tried but if your drilling thicker acrilic maybe have a water hose running on it while drilling to pull the heat away. May make it easier. Just a thought

Drag Racer
11/28/2007, 10:33 AM
I've drilled thinner 1/4 acrilic before and any pressure or speed causes the plastic to melt back together and deform a bit. Ive never tried but if your drilling thicker acrilic maybe have a water hose running on it while drilling to pull the heat away. May make it easier. Just a thought

Drag Racer
11/28/2007, 10:36 AM
Sorry for double post

Blown 346
11/28/2007, 03:52 PM
I also agree on the running hose over the ares you will be drilling to keep not onlt the hole saw cool but the acrylic as well.

Normal stress cracks will be very small and thin almost looking like little spider webs, Here's a picture of a whited out joint, you want to avoid this
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/plyboy1917/whitedoutjoints.jpg

Alot of great info here on what to look for with stress cracks.
http://www.canreef.com/library/acrylic_tank/acrylic_tanks.htm

springerhd
11/28/2007, 04:14 PM
Thanks for the picture and the link! Lots of good info there.

Acrylics
11/28/2007, 09:15 PM
Personally, I would not buy a used tank unless you see it filled with water.
If the tank has "excessive" bubbles, walk away.
If the tank has a badly bowed "memory", walk away.
If the bottom is warped/bulged, walk away.
If there are any cracks on the vertical panels, walk away (top & bottom *can* be repaired).
If there is any white-outs (shown above by Blown 346), walk away.
If there is any crazing you can feel with a fingernail, walk away.
If you have to do any modification to the tank to get it how you want it, walk away
If you simply don't feel good about the tank, walk away.
All JMO.

You can drill as close to a glued edge as you'd like, but IMO you should not drill within a few inches of a bent joint. Use just about any hole-saw, use a 50:50 solution of Palmolive and water to cool/lubricate. Do not stop the drill in the kerf, remove the drill often to clear chips.

HTH,
James

A.T.T.R
11/28/2007, 09:20 PM
first step. make sure tank is glass
second step. make sure it isnt tenecor

i own a tenecor 150 and regret eveyr minute of it!

bchbum189
11/28/2007, 09:50 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11275744#post11275744 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by A.T.T.R
first step. make sure tank is acrylic
second step. make sure not to listen to over opinionated people



fixed:D

springerhd
11/29/2007, 07:52 AM
Acrylics - thanks for all the great info. It seems like a really good deal, but with all the things that can go wrong and flood my house, I'm getting a little wary. I'll just have to print out everything from this thread and bring it with me to make sure I check it all out!

ATTR - what happened with yours? Was something messed with the design/manufacture of the tank or did they just have bad customer service? I thing I've heard of more people having problems with glass tanks cracking than acrylic, so I'm curious. Plus the clarity of acrylic is appealing (starfire glass is just a little out of my budget).