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View Full Version : Filtering a 10g nano????


Husky_1
12/13/2007, 08:52 AM
Ok guys, I think I have decided on the lighting that I will be using for my upcoming 10g nano project, the coralife 20" 96w. Now I have started thinking about filtering. I plan on being sumpless and skimmer less, this of course may change.

Originally I was thinking that I was going to do an aqua clear 70 HOB mod, but don't like the way lighting looks on it, plus I would really prefer everything to be contained into the confines of the one tank. I saw a thread a few days ago where someone took a 2.5g tank, bent some acrylic and made and internal overflow filter. I was pretty intrigued by this idea and thought that I may go with something similar.

Then I saw the Current USA SubCurrent Internal Filter w/ Pump. This pushed 160gph, and does everything I want it to do. I would end up replacing the bioballs with a phosban section. But in general the foot print is reasonable, the price is good, and the flow is just about what I want anyway.


So what is the general consensus on this piece of equipment? Is it good, or would I be throwing my money away?

I really appreciate the help....My next topics will be Macro algae/Mangroves in tank...:)

dendro982
12/13/2007, 09:11 AM
Internal filter may be insufficient, depending on tank. As oversized power filters were insufficient for my tank. Had to make mini sump with micron sock.
You will see, what will work or not work in your situation.

Husky_1
12/13/2007, 09:27 AM
What did you use?

How about the Tunze Nano Filter, anyone have experience with this one?

Agu
12/13/2007, 09:34 AM
I believe the subcurrent is a fairly new product. I haven't seen any reviews about it in the forum yet. Couple of people in this thread were going to order it,

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1246044&highlight=subcurrent

Based on it's size the primary benefit would be surface skimming and dual outlets. The biggest downside I see is the suction cup mounting, suction cups eventually fail. But that can be worked around by making a mounting bracket.

Buy one and give us pics and a review ;) .



Thanks for the compliment on my tank in the other thread. FWIW, there's an AC 70 on the back of that tank. I like them because it generates flow without adding heat to the tank.

Husky_1
12/13/2007, 09:40 AM
Agu, thanks again for the replies. You are right about the heat thing, I can always go with an HOB, but think in my case it will take away from the look. It looks like yours is in a position in the house where you cannot see it, unfortunately mine will be at the entrance of my Townhouse where you would normally put a side table, so the least amount of out of tank equipment the better. I did think about raising the tank up, but then I have light switches I would obstruct...


Its amazing how every setup has its own hurdles, nothing is ever straight foward it seem...

Toygrr
12/13/2007, 01:15 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11375696#post11375696 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Husky_1
Ok guys, I think I have decided on the lighting that I will be using for my upcoming 10g nano project, the coralife 20" 96w. Now I have started thinking about filtering. I plan on being sumpless and skimmer less, this of course may change.

Originally I was thinking that I was going to do an aqua clear 70 HOB mod, but don't like the way lighting looks on it, plus I would really prefer everything to be contained into the confines of the one tank. I saw a thread a few days ago where someone took a 2.5g tank, bent some acrylic and made and internal overflow filter. I was pretty intrigued by this idea and thought that I may go with something similar.

Then I saw the Current USA SubCurrent Internal Filter w/ Pump. This pushed 160gph, and does everything I want it to do. I would end up replacing the bioballs with a phosban section. But in general the foot print is reasonable, the price is good, and the flow is just about what I want anyway.


So what is the general consensus on this piece of equipment? Is it good, or would I be throwing my money away?

I really appreciate the help....My next topics will be Macro algae/Mangroves in tank...:) I really wouldnt get PC's, first off a 96w can be dangerous i heard, and the output isnt nearly as good as t5's or hqi. If i were you i would go for like a 70w k2 viper, or a sunpod, or get some t5 retrofits from icecap. <a href="http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5_Fluorescent/IceCap/SLR_Retrofit_Kits/24_inch__2x24W_SLR_T5_High-Output_Retrofit_Kit_w!_Bulbs_by_IceCap">Icecap</a>

Husky_1
12/13/2007, 01:59 PM
Toygrr,
Thanks for the input, I would much prefer t5's. I want to stay at a max of 20" for the lights but I cannot seem to find a retro kit for the 16.5" 18w t5's and the only fixture I have found is the Current Nova which only has a single reflector. As for MH, it may be and option, but was originally ruled out because of evaporation...I have not bought anything yet, so I am still open.

Chad Vossen
12/13/2007, 02:19 PM
i have a 175 watt halide over my 20 long and i have about 5 gallons evap per week. no different than when i had compacts over the tank.

also, i have my halide 16 inches over my water.

ctreefer
12/13/2007, 02:38 PM
Here's a possible solution, but its probably a bit more work. It resembles what you were talking about with the 5.5 gallon only externally. I bought this from a local fish store that had gotten a bunch of these from somewhere. I really like the idea as it hides everything to the back of the tank so it frees up the full tank for corals. All it had for filtration was a mj 1000 in the refugium pumping water into the tank. The heater was in the refug as well as some LR rubble and some chaeto. You could do this internally as you mentioned. The only drawback is lesser space in the tank.

I used some cheapo T5 light strips from Nova. 3 bulbs for this setup that were 18 inches and only 9 watts. I placed the individual reflectors behind these and called it a day. That plus a SSB and this was the best little tank I've ever had. I loved it so much I upgraded to a 37 cube based on the same principle and so far so good.


Anyways, just another possible solution. Good luck!
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/14477forsale_-_August_2006_1b.jpg

Agu
12/13/2007, 06:55 PM
really wouldnt get PC's, first off a 96w can be dangerous i heard,

I've been using a 96w powerquad on one tank for 5 years and on another tank for 4 years. So tell me how they're dangerous ? I don't mean to be rude but if you're going to make that kind of a comment about a product you need to be able to back it up.

Husky_1
12/13/2007, 09:05 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11377975#post11377975 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ctreefer
Here's a possible solution, but its probably a bit more work. It resembles what you were talking about with the 5.5 gallon only externally. I bought this from a local fish store that had gotten a bunch of these from somewhere. I really like the idea as it hides everything to the back of the tank so it frees up the full tank for corals. All it had for filtration was a mj 1000 in the refugium pumping water into the tank. The heater was in the refug as well as some LR rubble and some chaeto. You could do this internally as you mentioned. The only drawback is lesser space in the tank.

I used some cheapo T5 light strips from Nova. 3 bulbs for this setup that were 18 inches and only 9 watts. I placed the individual reflectors behind these and called it a day. That plus a SSB and this was the best little tank I've ever had. I loved it so much I upgraded to a 37 cube based on the same principle and so far so good.


Anyways, just another possible solution. Good luck!
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/14477forsale_-_August_2006_1b.jpg

CTreefer, thanks for the heads up. Thats definitely another idea and is clean I will think about the external. Is that tank drilled or was it on a U-tube, I see something in the pic that looks like it could be a bulkhead, but then I see the utube as well?

As far as the lights, you were able to fit the single reflectors in the strip? That sounds like a great idea, do you happen to have the part information on the light and the reflectors? Also what were you able to keep under these?

Thanks for the info,
Dale

As far as the

ctreefer
12/13/2007, 10:28 PM
Dale, yes you're seeing it right. Its drilled at one end for a bulkhead and the closer side is a u tube coming off the mj. take a look in my gallery I think on pg 6 and it has more pictures.

As far as the lights go, here's currents link to their description of the product:

http://www.current-usa.com/nova.html

They only come in 2 types. a 10K white and an actinic version, but the colors seem to work well if you do a 2 actinic to 1 10k ratio.

The reflectors aren't going to be in an optimal distance from the bulbs as they would be with a reefgeek or icecap retro. There's not much space to slide the reflectors between the bulb and the lamp housing. I'm not sure how much efficiency I'm getting out of them, but I'm sure its better than a single reflector for the whole setup. I've found these strips for as cheap as $12.98 online in both 10K and actinic. I had 3 over my 10 with homeade reflectors based on the design of my reflectors I bought from reefgeek. (I was going the cheapo route). In regards to what I can grow, here's a link to my 37 build that's using the 24 inch strips. It also has a pic of my 10 gallon before I broke it down. All softies and some lps and a few montipora caps and digitata. Nice color and growth while slow with the montis is acceptable. Everything else really loves the light level.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1198833&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

Husky_1
12/14/2007, 06:34 AM
Thanks CTreefer, btw where did you get polished aluminium for the reflectors? I do not mind bending them myself either.

ctreefer
12/14/2007, 08:13 AM
I used standard aluminum roofing flashing you would find at HD. I have a bunch of it from doing my roof last. Its not highly polished but does the trick. If you decided to go the cheapo T5 route another better alternative with a little more $$ would be to buy an icecap t5 reflector for the 48" length and cut it into 3 sections. These can be had for about $25 plus shipping and would give you the highly polished surface. I may go this route eventually and see what the difference might be. As it is, a roll of flashing might be more than $25 nowadays anyways. I had it already so it was a freebie.

Husky_1
12/14/2007, 08:40 AM
Thanks CT, I actually have an extra 36" SLR reflector that I could you if I go that route, I was asking primarily for the additional reflector that i need in case...I also realized after I wrote the email I could also use that chrome tape you get a auto part stores.

GoingPostal
12/14/2007, 10:12 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11377393#post11377393 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Toygrr
I really wouldnt get PC's, first off a 96w can be dangerous i heard,

I am curious about this too, I've dropped mine in the water about five times now on and it still works fine, it's not the greatest light ever but it does good enough for softies and lps.

lat0403
12/14/2007, 10:20 AM
I'm going to do one soon using this (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1265768) as an example. A lot of people use the back instead of the side, though.


I'm interested in the comment about the 96w Quad, as well. That's what I plan on using, because I have two. I used them on my 33 for a while and didn't have any problems. Even dropped one in the water once. Scared me, but it didn't cause any problems.

Leslie

Husky_1
12/14/2007, 01:03 PM
Lat, thanks for the link, that is similar to what I was originally thinking as well. Mine would be located in the back of the tank as well. Thanks for the link...The good part about doing it this way is that you could put a bigger ph in there...