Solenoid options for water shutoff

[THP]

Looking for solenoid options that people may have regarding auto-top off systems.

Cheers

[THP]

if any complete systems exist those suggestions would be welcomed as well. I'm looking to top off 2 seperate containers but initiate the RO/DI unit for extended periods instead of constant on/off cycles so a high/low type unit is needed. The system also has to shut water off prior to the RO/DI as well to prevent constant waste water.

I would then run a pump from 1 of the containers to top off the sump

[DirkG]

I got mine from http://www.mcmaster.com/
part #5489T632 with a 24 volt transformer part #70235K16
both cost me about $60. works like a charm.

I have it hooked up my RO/DI with a timer set for 1 hour a day, 7 days a week. then to a float valve in my sump. That way if my float sticks it will only dump in about 3 gal of water a day. Plus it will help in the tds creep from my RO unit.
Hope this helps,
Dirk

[FishTruck]

Take a look at autotopoff.com.

You can use the double solenoids with the provided two level controller.

Good luck.

RYan.

[GuySmilie]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11422469#post11422469 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by THP
Looking for solenoid options that people may have regarding auto-top off systems.

Cheers
This (http://www.stcvalve.com/I-Solenoid-spec-2P.htm) is what I use. 2P025 1/8

[MeuserReef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11422996#post11422996 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DirkG
I got mine from http://www.mcmaster.com/
part #5489T632 with a 24 volt transformer part #70235K16
both cost me about $60. works like a charm.

I have it hooked up my RO/DI with a timer set for 1 hour a day, 7 days a week. then to a float valve in my sump. That way if my float sticks it will only dump in about 3 gal of water a day. Plus it will help in the tds creep from my RO unit.
Hope this helps,
Dirk
Dirk

I think we have identical setups, except that I used the 120V solenoids instead of the 24V.


The timer is a perfect way to minimize the amount of time that the solenoids operate.

Here is a little scematic that might help the OP.

Notice that REDUNDANCY is a must on this type of setup.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/Original_Tarheel/ROAutoTopOffSchematic.jpg

[original kuhli]

Dema 401P, I bought two to redundantly control top off in my new tank, haven't installed them yet but... I also went with a 476P for the drain, its a planted tank with automated drains and fills...soon.

http://kimsupply.com/userimages/pg_91.pdf

Dema is supposed to have a very good reputation for reliability...

[AZDesertRat]

They have anything you would want here.

http://www.spectrapure.com/liquid_level_controllers.htm

[THP]

Fantastic and thanks for the various options. I've gota say that I'm impressed with what www.autotopoff.com has.

Another quick question: Is a 90 psi rating for the solenoid too low if I want to use some of them in series between the water main and RO/DI unit?

[AZDesertRat]

Average household water pressure is 50-60 psi.

[THP]

Ah, thanks very much. So 90 is safe on either side it seems.

Cheers

[MeuserReef]

I think you will be fine with the 90psi model.

[original kuhli]

You won't have your full residential pressure downstream of your RO unit...I'd guess something like 2/3 of it.

[Lucky Strike]

you place solenoids before the ro unit.

[shyland83]

you don't have to place the solenoid before the ro unit. if you have an ASOV on the unit you can put them after the unit. that is what i plan on doing, because i have a my ro also hooked up to a storage container with a float valve.

[MeuserReef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11428714#post11428714 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shyland83
you don't have to place the solenoid before the ro unit. if you have an ASOV on the unit you can put them after the unit. that is what i plan on doing, because i have a my ro also hooked up to a storage container with a float valve.

Just make sure that the solenoid that you use does not have any metal parts inside. This is not a concern if the valve is before the RO membrane because the metals get removed from the water before it makes it into the tank.

Just a thought.

Anyone know where to get good quality solenoids that dont have metal in them?

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11429805#post11429805 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MeuserReef
Just make sure that the solenoid that you use does not have any metal parts inside. This is not a concern if the valve is before the RO membrane because the metals get removed from the water before it makes it into the tank.

Just a thought.

Anyone know where to get good quality solenoids that dont have metal in them?

It wont degrade the solenoid nor will it put enough metal into the system to effect anything. Ive got solenoids that have been used for a number of years that still look new. All ac solenoids wil have a metal shading coil. The stc valves are one of the best out there for the price but that will be going up. They are going to stop selling directly to the public so youll have to go to a distributor soon. Stainless is another route but they are a few bucks more expensive. You can find elcheap 24v stainless car wash valves but not something I would use, the coils go out on a regular basis.

Also when using valves close to the rodi with a inline tds or conductivity meters. You need to verify the that the valve is not causing a false meter reading.

Don

[kirby_32]

I purchased a set-up off of e bay that has worked well. I don't remember the exact price but seems like it was less than $50. It included a 120 psi solenoid valve, float switch, 12 v transformer, and bulk head mounts for both. It's a nice kit and I have not had any issues with it. I can dig up the specifics if you are interested.

[MeuserReef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11431862#post11431862 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Donw
It wont degrade the solenoid nor will it put enough metal into the system to effect anything. Ive got solenoids that have been used for a number of years that still look new. All ac solenoids wil have a metal shading coil. The stc valves are one of the best out there for the price but that will be going up. They are going to stop selling directly to the public so youll have to go to a distributor soon. Stainless is another route but they are a few bucks more expensive. You can find elcheap 24v stainless car wash valves but not something I would use, the coils go out on a regular basis.

Also when using valves close to the rodi with a inline tds or conductivity meters. You need to verify the that the valve is not causing a false meter reading.

Don

Don,

Arent you at all concerned that the metal shading coil could be made out of brass, or even worse, copper?

Do you have a link for the STC valves?

[Donw]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11432603#post11432603 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MeuserReef
Don,

Arent you at all concerned that the metal shading coil could be made out of brass, or even worse, copper?

Do you have a link for the STC valves?

The link was posted by guysmilie a few post up. No I'm not at all concerned. My solenoids look new and are not degrading at all both 12vdc and 110vac are fine. You would have to desolve alot of shading coils to do harm tor your tank.

Don

[RicGio]

If the solenoid is upstream of your RO/DI then you would'nt see any copper in the product water at all.

[jnarowe]

I use the SpectraPure LLC with solenoid and it is rock solid.