lighting a 4' front to back tank (500 gallon)

[46bfinGA]

I am thinking about buying 2- 8 lamp tek lights for my 500. The tank is 4' front to back so I would center up the lights on the tank and lift them a bit to spread out the light. Dimensions on my tank are 8'x4'x2'.

Will this work ok? The tank is going to be full of softies and I really dont want more wattage then this. I actually have 2-8' 6 lamp fixtures that I was going to put side by side. but I like the looks of the Tek lights better then what I have. Are there any T5 lights out there that are around 36" wide that would spread out the light a little better?

Any thoughts?

[Harleyguy]

With just softies, and a 3" sand bed I think you will be fine

[46bfinGA]

Not too worried about having enough light for the corals. More interested in having enough spread to light up the tank and still look good. The fixture is 48"x20" and the tank is 48" front to back. All my rock will be placed in the middle of the tank in a few islands. I didnt know if anyone has tried this on there larger tanks. I definitely don't want to spend the cash and buy 4 fixtures.

[Elliott]

each Tek 8 bulb fixture is 20" wide. So with two fixtures you're covering 40" of your 48" area, when you raise them up a bit I'm sure the spread will cover the remaining 4" on each side.

but are you looking at the 72" length? isn't your tank 96"?

they look like nice fixtures btw

[FishTruck]

These babies have a 48 by 48 inch spread. Not T5s, but an option. (Not a cheap option either).

http://www.aquariumobsessed.com/

Infinity XR6- Twin 2 x 400 Pendant

[Elliott]

Fishtruck, you have expensive taste :) great fixture!

[46bfinGA]

Yeah my tank is 8' long so I will install the fixtures in the center of the tank end to end. I cant seem to find any fixtures wider then 20" that have more of a spread to them. I really would like to stick with about 12-16 bulbs max. Maybe I should just DIY a fixture made out of aluminum angle,but that is still pretty expensive once you start buying all the Reflectors,endcaps,standoffs,ballasts,etc..........The Tek fixtures look really nice that the major plus to those.

[46bfinGA]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11449701#post11449701 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FishTruck
These babies have a 48 by 48 inch spread. Not T5s, but an option. (Not a cheap option either).

http://www.aquariumobsessed.com/

Infinity XR6- Twin 2 x 400 Pendant

Yeah you buy them for me for Christmas! :)

No way I would ever spend $6000 on 2 lights. Im trying to spend as less as possible on this. The Tunze setup,Dart NW skimmer,etc....has allready cost me an arm and a leg.

[Elliott]

ahh, end to end, then you are trying to cover 48" with a 20" wide fixture, that may be difficult.

but, if you are planning to place your rock/corals in the middle under the lights, no problem! would also look nice as your eyes would be drawn to that area

[Harleyguy]

Get the lights, and worst case, later on add 2 more...It's only money... ;)

[46bfinGA]

Before I bought two I would probably just install a couple light movers and have them slide front to back a couple feet. But I think these lights will do fine on this tank if I mount them in the middle. Hell Im running a 36" 4 lamp T5 light on a 6' 125 right now.I like the way it looks.

[ricks]

46bfinGA,

I definitely don't want to spend the cash and buy 4 fixtures.
And a 500 gallon reef don't go together very well..

The Tunze setup,Dart NW skimmer,etc....has already cost me an arm and a leg.

Before your finished all your appendages and wallet will be missing. heheheh..

You can low budget it, but the maintenance cost will still blow your hair back...

I'm not trying to be negative, heck it's almost Christmas.. And I still don't have your new chiller picked out...

Happy Reefing

[Jar*Head]

I think you will need more than 8 bulbs fixture.... I plan to have the same dimension tank with 3x400w and 4x4bulbs fixture along the side...

[Elliott]

I'm looking into light movers for my next tank, makes a lot of sense to me, appears to be a way to light a larger area more economically.

[46bfinGA]

I dont want to use a ton of electricity to run this tank. Thats why I sold my beckett skimmer and got the DartNW,same reason I scrapped the closed loop that I bought and got the Tunze. Maybe I would be better off building my own fixture and running the bulbs from front to back.Spread 12-16 lamps evenly across the tank? Problem with that is I just sold all my Retrofit stuff to buy some nicer fixtures. Oh well Im going to try the fixtures and just have to live with me decision. Wouldnt be the first time Ive bought something that didnt quite turn out right.

[46bfinGA]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11453469#post11453469 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Elliott
I'm looking into light movers for my next tank, makes a lot of sense to me, appears to be a way to light a larger area more economically.

I found some relatively inexpensive ones online in some of the propogation/hydroponic websites. Im thinking this would be the way to go instead of dumping a ton of money into lights on big tanks. I may order a couple and see how they do.

[46bfinGA]

I have found chain driven light movers that are around $100 and then the self propeled trolley ones that are around $200 each. Im not sure which ones are better or more dependable.

[Elliott]

jnarowe uses this one:

http://www.lightrail3.com/lightrail.php

[reef / aholic]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11453562#post11453562 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 46bfinGA
Wouldnt be the first time Ive bought something that didnt quite turn out right.

We have all been there!!!

[yaktop]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11453772#post11453772 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Elliott
jnarowe uses this one:

http://www.lightrail3.com/lightrail.php

use the same one and has worked flawlessly for about 7 months now. 5 watts had to beat.

[46bfinGA]

Would one light rail be strong enough to hold a 48" Tek light? Or would I have to have two per fixture? I was thinking I could cut a 6' track in half and use one for each fixture. Then just buy another drive motor for the second track. Would end up costing me around $350 though. Might be better off just buying another fixture........too many decisions to make on these big tanks.

[Kent E]

You can gang the lights together and have them on the same rail. That's what I did. I light a 450 gallon with 500 watts (2-250 XM 10k) Sps grows great.

[ricks]

For viewing, don't you get dark non lit shaded areas. And real bright areas at the same time. Doesn't that make the reef look out of balance as far as light goes??? Just curious, I've seen these before and most of the reef is dark as the light moves to the far side.

[46bfinGA]

Well my 2 lights would be moving front to back only about 2 ft on a 3' track if I decide to go that route. So I would guess there will not be many "dark spots". Im going to try the fixtures without a track at first and see how I like it. The track can always be added later down the line if I dont like the outcome.

[Elliott]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11456854#post11456854 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kent E
You can gang the lights together and have them on the same rail. That's what I did. I light a 450 gallon with 500 watts (2-250 XM 10k) Sps grows great.

wow! can you post a pic?

[ricks]

Kent E,

Are those pictures in your gallery of your 450 gallon reef???

[FishTruck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11449984#post11449984 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 46bfinGA
Yeah you buy them for me for Christmas! :)

No way I would ever spend $6000 on 2 lights. Im trying to spend as less as possible on this. The Tunze setup,Dart NW skimmer,etc....has allready cost me an arm and a leg.

Awww, c'mon! I was talking about the twin 400 watt halide fixtures with no T5s or moons. They are only $1799.00 per fixture or $3600 for two lights. This includes ballasts and bulbs. Besides, isn't there a prize for the most money spent per gallon per year? :celeb1:

Actually, I think the idea of just spotting the coral heads is brilliant and your current plan is a good one. It will cut down on your costs and should look spectacular. As long as you don't have clams in the sandbed you should do great.

[yaktop]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11456996#post11456996 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ricks
For viewing, don't you get dark non lit shaded areas. And real bright areas at the same time. Doesn't that make the reef look out of balance as far as light goes??? Just curious, I've seen these before and most of the reef is dark as the light moves to the far side.

depends how far spread you go, with two 20 inch lumenarcs over a 72 inch tank, less the 5 inch on either side for the euro brace leaves 62, the light are spaced roughly 12 " so the lights dont move a great distance. the advantage is no shadows for the entire 2/3rds and less light on the ends for lower light corals. using 400W it works, couldnt work with 175w very well.

[Kent E]

I do have a very small triangle shadow on the back wall. But other than that it doesn't look unbalanced to me.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b68/jcanute/120%20to%20450/100_1709.jpg

Here's a really old thread http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=751201&highlight=kents+450

Here's the 1000 I'm working on: (haven't gotten to the lighting yet but it will be 3- 250w with lumenarcs)
http://fingerlakesreef.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=413&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=580

[Elliott]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11461700#post11461700 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kent E


Here's the 1000 I'm working on: (haven't gotten to the lighting yet but it will be 3- 250w with lumenarcs)
http://fingerlakesreef.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=413&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=580

are you kidding? 1000g tank with 3 250w bulbs???? wow, I use 4 250's on my 300g, I need to look into these light movers!!!! :D

[Kent E]

I can't guarantee it's going to work yet, it's a theory. But as it is I don't want the glass to be lit to cut down on scraping, and so that eliminates a lot of tank along the parameter. The lights will be approximately 2 feet above the water so that will give a 3' spread and that covers the tank.

I'm going to test the lighting with a par meter once its set up and the water is in. If the values are high enough I'll go with it. If not it'll be plan B -400 watters.

[Elliott]

Kent E: I'll be looking over your shoulder hoping it works, regardless, it seems light movers are the way to go, are you entertaining the arc model for the rail noted on your build thread? I would think the distance variation would be problematic.

not to take this thread off course 46bfinGA, but I think it's still relevant here

[Kent E]

That would be more of an experimental thing. Right now I may just do 3 static lights- depends on the spread.

[46bfinGA]

[i]

not to take this thread off course 46bfinGA, but I think it's still relevant here [/B]

By all means. The point of this thread is to figure out how to light a large tank at a minimal cost monthly/up front. I can use all the info. I can get.

I like the idea of the light movers. And If the two lights dont look right on my tank i may just go that route. Im pretty sure retrofitting the light movers after the fact shoudnt be too big of a chore.

[jamesdawson]

I'm also planning an 8'x4'x25" tank and have done alot of research.

The most cost effective (in terms of energy efficiency, if not initial purchase cost) lighting by far is 175W Iwasaki 15k mogul bulbs on e-ballasts and in LumenArc 3 or similar large-spread reflectors. The Iwasaki/E-ballast combo had the highest efficiency rating of any bulb tested by Sanjay Joshi. You can easily grow SPS at the sandbed under the combo i suggest.

16 x 54 watt T5 equals 864 watts versus 3 175 w setups at a total of 525 watts (should be more then enough) or 4 setups at 700 watts if you want to strongly light the ends. Bulb changeouts will also be substantially less since 16 T5 bulbs aint cheap.

To make it perfect, you would probably want to have some supplemental actinic lighting since the Iwasaki has lots of 450nm blue but almost no 420 actinic spectrum. Either VHO or T5 supplemental will take care of that one deficiency and fill in the front and back of the tank.

I have had a 48", 8 bulb Teklight and they are a pretty crappy product from a crappy company. T-5s have to be actively cooled to have maximum PAR and lifespan and the Teklight doesn't do it. If your reflector gets splashed it will permanently stain/discolor and if you put a shield on you will further cook your bulbs and deplete Par and lifespan. If you want T-5, a retro is a cheaper and better option since you can blow a fan across it.

James

[Elliott]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11462980#post11462980 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jamesdawson
I have had a 48", 8 bulb Teklight and they are a pretty crappy product from a crappy company. T-5s have to be actively cooled to have maximum PAR and lifespan and the Teklight doesn't do it. If your reflector gets splashed it will permanently stain/discolor and if you put a shield on you will further cook your bulbs and deplete Par and lifespan. If you want T-5, a retro is a cheaper and better option since you can blow a fan across it.

James

why can't you blow a fan across your teklight?

[46bfinGA]

Thanks for the info James Dawson. I had no Idea I could get away with 175 MH on this tank. I may go that route and use the Lumenarc Reflectors. I do love the shimmer of MH.

[46bfinGA]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11463541#post11463541 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Elliott
why can't you blow a fan across your teklight?

I was wondering that myself. That was actually my plan from the start. I was going to install a fan on a shelf next to my tank that blew across both fixtures.

[ricks]

I would question 175 watt with SPS. I'm no expert, I use 400 watt on my 36" deep with great results...

I'm also interested in the track movers. Always planning a new system, 1,350 down the road. I've seen track light movers at a LFS one bulb on a 4' tank. The only problem is half the tank is dark/ shaded as the light moves. I really don't like the way it looks out of balance... Maybe it's just me? Looking forward to finished tank pictures with lights on...

Happy Reefing

[jamesdawson]

You can blow a fan across the Teklight, but not with a shield on to protect the reflectors from staining unless you do the Hahnmeister mod (he bent an acrylic shield down at one side and put in a cross-flow fan to evenly blow air the width of the fixture.

175W IWASAKI 15K has an efficiency of .5261 on an IceCap ballast and will grow SPS at the sandbed on a 24" deep tank. It is the most efficient bulb ever tested by Sanjay (about double the efficiency of most other MH bulbs). What I claim only applies to this bulb on an IceCap or better e-ballast.

Light movers are also an efficient way to light a tank with less bulbs/electricity. I also don't like the look of a tank with lots of dark areas as the light mover moves.

James

[PJsStuff]

Anyone have any movies of these light movers in action? Im building a 96"x48"30" tank and i am trying to figure out the lighting. I want something thats not going to cost an arm and a leg to run each month. The LED lights are out because they just cost to dang much.

[Kent E]

Pj light movers would make for a really boring movie. They move rather slow. Maybe a minute or so to go across the tank.

[PJsStuff]

i was just wondering what the dark spots would look like. Im trying to figure out how to light my new tank. 84"x48"x30" Trying to keep the Electric bill low but i also want enough light for sps.