siwelk
12/24/2007, 06:43 AM
Below is an excerpt from my build thread in the Nano Reef frorum. I havent been getting much help on my new plans over there so i figured id post some questions here. I recently found out that i can drill my tank and ive come up with an idea on drilling and implementing a closed-loop. im new to both of these concepts and would appreciate any help/comments/suggestions on how to do this. Thanks.
funny story...
so i was about to call up Jeff at Lifereef yesterday to place an order on a custom slimline 600gph prefilter when i started wishing i could just get my tank drilled. when i bought the tank a couple months ago i called the manufacturer (Perfecto/Marineland) to verify which, if any, of the sides were tempered. the lady i spoke to told me that all sides were tempered and that i couldn't drill it. i assumed she knew what she was talking about even though it seemed strange, and continued on to plan my tank build under the impression that i wouldn't be able to drill it. i figured that before i ordered the Lifereef id call Marineland and ask them again about my tank. i spoke to a guy that informed me that my 30g (36"x12"x16") was, in fact, not tempered on any side. soooo, long story short i now have to redesign my plumbing and see about a glass shop to do some drilling for me. i researched about different style overflows and tried to figure out where i wanted to put the internal overflow box. at first i decided that i would put a 3 sided internal overflow in the center of the back glass, and have the tank drilled for a durso style overflow with a 1" drain and 3/4" return. i planned to run the return up over the internal overlow and use a Y loc-line fitting with nozzles to provide surface agitation. i also wanted to plumb for a closed loop as well. the idea was to be able to use the return manifold i had already made.
then i found the Herbie method thread on RC, and decided this is what im going to use. it seems that this is the best method for a silent tank with no air bubbles. i figure ill use a 1" bulkead for the main drain and a 3/4" bulkhead for the emergency drain. ill also have an CL intake drilled and plumbed from the bottom of the back glass, through the internal overflow and out to a strainer intake inside the tank.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x111/siwelk/herbie.jpg
i wanted to keep all drilled holes within the confines of the internal overflow box. i plan to use a gate valve on the drain line to adjust the water level inside the internal overflow. the return will still be a mag7 throttled back and returned via two 1/2" PVC 90 elbows over the top of the tank. the return manifold will stay mostly as it was previously configured with the addition of 3/4" 45s off the split-T's in the corners instead of 1/2" reducing 90 elbows. id like to replace the flow of the two Koralis 3s i had planned on using, therefore id like to have a CL pump capable of pushing ~1700gph (one K3 = 850gph). i was thinking of using a mag18 to achieve this. id like to mount a stand behind the tank to hold the mag18 and plumb it up the the CL manifold with four 3/4" 45degree outputs. the CL plus the return from the sump should get me around 2000gph, or 40x turnover. this brings up a couple questions i have:
1) since both my return and CL manifold outputs are on the top of the water will there be enough flow created at the bottom of the tank? are the four 3/4" 45degree outputs going to be able to provide adequate flow in a 16" tall tank? (note: each CL output should be pushing ~ 400 gph). i want to use a CL to keep the clean look and if i have to add a PH for a dead spot it just defeats the purpose.
FWIW i plan to have a pillar style aquascape so the rockwork will be relatively open.
2) is there anything wrong with putting a ball valve on each of the sides of a "T" on the CL manifold?
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x111/siwelk/mag18.jpg
sorry for the crappy sketches, i dont have any form of electronic artistic expression other than paint.
id like to be able to adjust the flow to each side of the CL manifold so i can get different ratios of flow per side. id like to also lower the flow a bit until i try to move on to SPS. i didnt know if there was any rule about restricting the output from a CL pump. if anyone can confirm/deny this please do.
even though i have to do some re-planning im still stoked that i can get the tank drilled and not have to mess with a HOB overflow to risk flooding. if anyone has any comments on other types of overflows please feel free to share them. i decided on the Herbie style due to its ability to make the overflow and drain whisper quiet and minimize microbubbles in the sump. everyone whos uses it says it works great. im also new to researching and implementing closed loops and manifolds so if anyone can offer any suggestions or alternatives id appreciate it. i dont have any confidence in working with acrylic so i thought about ordering a pre-made internal overflow from wetdryfilter.com
http://www.wetdryfilter.com/internal_overflow_boxes.htm
less than $100 shipped for your custom dimensions. seems kinda pricey but i dont see any good alternatives...at least locally. has anyone had any experience with these? i havent had a chance to do any reasearch on them yet. them seem to be of good quality. after i get my xmas shopping done today ill probably head over to HD to get some PVC fittings and bulkheads for the drain lines and new CL manifold. ill have to wait until after xmas to make arrangements to get my tank drilled at a local glass shop. when i inquired about possibly getting the tank drilled previously they quoted me at $10 per 1" hole. that sounds decent enough to me. ill be moving on with said plans after xmas, giving everyone time to chime in with any improvements or suggestions on my design. again, im a noob to the drilled tank scene so please forgive me for any oversights or complete ignorance. TIA.
funny story...
so i was about to call up Jeff at Lifereef yesterday to place an order on a custom slimline 600gph prefilter when i started wishing i could just get my tank drilled. when i bought the tank a couple months ago i called the manufacturer (Perfecto/Marineland) to verify which, if any, of the sides were tempered. the lady i spoke to told me that all sides were tempered and that i couldn't drill it. i assumed she knew what she was talking about even though it seemed strange, and continued on to plan my tank build under the impression that i wouldn't be able to drill it. i figured that before i ordered the Lifereef id call Marineland and ask them again about my tank. i spoke to a guy that informed me that my 30g (36"x12"x16") was, in fact, not tempered on any side. soooo, long story short i now have to redesign my plumbing and see about a glass shop to do some drilling for me. i researched about different style overflows and tried to figure out where i wanted to put the internal overflow box. at first i decided that i would put a 3 sided internal overflow in the center of the back glass, and have the tank drilled for a durso style overflow with a 1" drain and 3/4" return. i planned to run the return up over the internal overlow and use a Y loc-line fitting with nozzles to provide surface agitation. i also wanted to plumb for a closed loop as well. the idea was to be able to use the return manifold i had already made.
then i found the Herbie method thread on RC, and decided this is what im going to use. it seems that this is the best method for a silent tank with no air bubbles. i figure ill use a 1" bulkead for the main drain and a 3/4" bulkhead for the emergency drain. ill also have an CL intake drilled and plumbed from the bottom of the back glass, through the internal overflow and out to a strainer intake inside the tank.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x111/siwelk/herbie.jpg
i wanted to keep all drilled holes within the confines of the internal overflow box. i plan to use a gate valve on the drain line to adjust the water level inside the internal overflow. the return will still be a mag7 throttled back and returned via two 1/2" PVC 90 elbows over the top of the tank. the return manifold will stay mostly as it was previously configured with the addition of 3/4" 45s off the split-T's in the corners instead of 1/2" reducing 90 elbows. id like to replace the flow of the two Koralis 3s i had planned on using, therefore id like to have a CL pump capable of pushing ~1700gph (one K3 = 850gph). i was thinking of using a mag18 to achieve this. id like to mount a stand behind the tank to hold the mag18 and plumb it up the the CL manifold with four 3/4" 45degree outputs. the CL plus the return from the sump should get me around 2000gph, or 40x turnover. this brings up a couple questions i have:
1) since both my return and CL manifold outputs are on the top of the water will there be enough flow created at the bottom of the tank? are the four 3/4" 45degree outputs going to be able to provide adequate flow in a 16" tall tank? (note: each CL output should be pushing ~ 400 gph). i want to use a CL to keep the clean look and if i have to add a PH for a dead spot it just defeats the purpose.
FWIW i plan to have a pillar style aquascape so the rockwork will be relatively open.
2) is there anything wrong with putting a ball valve on each of the sides of a "T" on the CL manifold?
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x111/siwelk/mag18.jpg
sorry for the crappy sketches, i dont have any form of electronic artistic expression other than paint.
id like to be able to adjust the flow to each side of the CL manifold so i can get different ratios of flow per side. id like to also lower the flow a bit until i try to move on to SPS. i didnt know if there was any rule about restricting the output from a CL pump. if anyone can confirm/deny this please do.
even though i have to do some re-planning im still stoked that i can get the tank drilled and not have to mess with a HOB overflow to risk flooding. if anyone has any comments on other types of overflows please feel free to share them. i decided on the Herbie style due to its ability to make the overflow and drain whisper quiet and minimize microbubbles in the sump. everyone whos uses it says it works great. im also new to researching and implementing closed loops and manifolds so if anyone can offer any suggestions or alternatives id appreciate it. i dont have any confidence in working with acrylic so i thought about ordering a pre-made internal overflow from wetdryfilter.com
http://www.wetdryfilter.com/internal_overflow_boxes.htm
less than $100 shipped for your custom dimensions. seems kinda pricey but i dont see any good alternatives...at least locally. has anyone had any experience with these? i havent had a chance to do any reasearch on them yet. them seem to be of good quality. after i get my xmas shopping done today ill probably head over to HD to get some PVC fittings and bulkheads for the drain lines and new CL manifold. ill have to wait until after xmas to make arrangements to get my tank drilled at a local glass shop. when i inquired about possibly getting the tank drilled previously they quoted me at $10 per 1" hole. that sounds decent enough to me. ill be moving on with said plans after xmas, giving everyone time to chime in with any improvements or suggestions on my design. again, im a noob to the drilled tank scene so please forgive me for any oversights or complete ignorance. TIA.