FlamesFans 90g DIY Thread

[FlamesFan]

Current Tank Status:

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/7633/fulltankshotni5.jpg

Current Specs:

Sun System 48" 6 bulb T5 Lighting
-Front
Actinic Plus
Pure Actinic
Aquaflora
Aquablue
Midday
Actinic Plus
-Back

Reeflow Snapper Returnpump
2x Koralia 3
Euroreef RS-100
TLF Phosban Reactor 150
RO/DI Barracuda System from AquaFX (75GPD)

Prologue: I wasn't originally going to post up a tank journal but decided I would, due to having a few DIY items in my build that maybe others could learn from, because honestly I had no clue how to do them until I read them in posts like this here on RC! Some of my pictures and such are from previous dates, not done on the date posted on RC.


Ok so i've been a long time reader on RC but just reciently i've signed up and started posting and well, this site really rocks. 100% of everything that i've learned about a SW system has been from this site. I've made under 3 stops to LFS's just to check out the scene but with a busy work life this is the best after hours place I could find! So anyways, 5 years ago I decided I wanted more out of the hobby and sold my 10g gold fish aquarium and dropped some good cash into a 90 gallon FW setup with a couple fluval 404's and such. I went out and bought a selection of cichlids, and out of the handful I bought only one didn't survive the 5 years I had them. After 5 years of FW I needed something new in the hobby to keep me interested, and with a bit of research online I found this incredible site, which in the end gave me all the information I needed to get the cog's moving and the confidence I needed.

Being a ticketed carpenter and a very hands on person I decided to do as much work myself as possible in order to save myself some cash, so what I had to work with from my old FW system that I could use on my SW system was:

Undrilled 90g tank
Jager heater
Basic FW knowledge

What I wanted:

Full reef system with an overflow and refugium, basically capable of being able to host anything that I would like to put in it.

List of things I will be doing on my own (some I have already accomplished):

- Drill current 90 gallon for a herbie overflow and build an overflow box inside the tank
- Construct a stand and canopy
- Build an acrylic sump with a refugium
- Plumb the entire system (this will be my weakness)

Continue reading if ya like!

[FlamesFan]

So one of the first things I realized I wanted was to have a built in overflow and a drilled tank. I remembered back 5 years ago when I bought my tank, and I remembered the LFS guy asking me if I wanted to buy a tank that had an overflow in it just "incase" I might one day go to a SW system. At that time, I was a lot younger and never thought I could one day afford that kind of setup so I didn't buy one. BIG MISTAKE!

So now, I took the plunge and shook the nerves off with a cold one and started my FW to SW conversion by drilling. I mean, if this didnt work it would mean a broken tank and saving up for a new one which would put this whole thing on hold for a while.

So here goes:


I decided to go for a center overflow, using the herbie design. So I will need three 1-1/2" holes. 1 for drain, 1 for return, and 1 for backup incase the first drain fails.

Tools used:
- cordless drill
- diamond hole saws purchased off ebay from a guy recommended largely on this site. The bit cost me 7 bucks and 7 bucks for shipping from hong kong.
- Toilet wax ring used for setting toilets. Everyone recommended plummers putty for a dam, but this baby was 88 cents and worked like a charm.
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/2227/drillingtank1ut3.jpg

[FlamesFan]

Glass hole saw bits have no center guide bit like a normal carpenters hole saw, so to get it started you need to start on a good 45 degree angle and once it bites in you can slowly move to a straight 90 degree angle. I went with a nice high speed setting and didnt stop until it went all the way through.

http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/7251/drillingtank2wa5.jpg



Yes, this is me shakin in my booties.

http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/6659/drillingtank3ey3.jpg

[FlamesFan]

btw fear my pink saw dust collection shovel! It's actually salmon color, you know...a strong fish.


So 3 holes drilled, an acrylic overflow will be installed when I purchase the material for the refugium

[FlamesFan]

Alright so Im not gonna go into detail about the stand and canopy unless I get any requests to do so, but yep was hand built and was my first time actually spraying the finish on it so that was a new experience to me. As far as the building goes im a finishing carpenter by trade so I guess if there's any questions your free to ask.


Stand/Canopy is Maple and is clear coated with a high gloss varathane product.
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/2469/stand1gp8.jpg

Look mom no center strut! Achieved by having 1-1/2 inch gables on the ends of the cabinet, and a solid back. The upper portion between the tank and the cabinet has a solid 4"x6" built up laminate beam in it from and back.
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/6951/stand2oh3.jpg

[FlamesFan]

Ok final post for today cause it's late, but UPS dropped this off today and maybe i'll install it tomorrow and show how easy it is to hook up to your washing machine station. I see so many posts in DIY threads on how to install one so maybe it will help someone out there lol.

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/7263/rodiac5.jpg

[NanoGurl]

Nice setup! Thanks for the photos on drilling.. that's neat. Tagging along!

[jcpatella]

Looking good so far! I love the DIY work. It's one thing to be an assembler, it's another thing to be a BUILDER! And that "salmon" shovel - there has to be a story behind that one...

There's something about drilling a tank that's unnerving. I'd be able to keep the hole lubricated just with the sweat dripping off my forehead!

I'll be sticking around too.

[FlamesFan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11549496#post11549496 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jcpatella
Looking good so far! I love the DIY work. It's one thing to be an assembler, it's another thing to be a BUILDER! And that "salmon" shovel - there has to be a story behind that one...

There's something about drilling a tank that's unnerving. I'd be able to keep the hole lubricated just with the sweat dripping off my forehead!

I'll be sticking around too.

Hah, yeh I had to down a couple cold ones to build up the nerve to start cutting that first hole....but I admit nearing the end of the 3rd hole was the worste. Oh and yeh the shovel has a history :p

[maroun.c]

Looking good.
Please do post some details about the stand and canopy built.

[FlamesFan]

Ok sure.

The stand is made out of solid and plywood maple. The cabinet area is the same proportion as the tank to try to give it an equal look.

The theme of the stand/canopy is a mission/shaker style. Which consists of all square sharp edges. I have also created the furnature in my living room where the tank is based on the same theme and also the same clear coat spray varathane look.

The cabinet area is built out of melamine (same stuff as kitchen cabinets) so it can be cleaned and wiped out with ease, and then the whole thing is wraped with maple plywood gables giving the box a full 1-1/2 inch (same width as a 2x4) surround for stability.

Total cost of materials is probally around 300-400 dollars-
- 2x 4x8 sheets of maple plywood
- 15 feet of 1x6 solid maple
- hinges and door knobs
- 4 liters of varathane

I would have no clue how many hours was put into the stand but it was a lot :p

The middle built up area between the cabinet and the tank was built with the same idea as the floor of a house. It is a rectangle with a 4x6 built up plywood beam running down the front of it in order in order to achieve no strut inside the cabinet.

ATM I live in a condo, but int he future I want to be able to move into a house so I know sometime in the near future I will be moving. With that said, when I designed and built the stand I made it so I can completely disassemble the entire thing into individual parts. The whole thing breaks down into 8 section/pieces which can each be carried around by one person and fits easily through openings and such.

Being in the construction/finishing industry I have my own wood working shop and all the tools required to do stuff like this. But a similar stand/canopy could easily be built minus some of the trim work on it, with a lot less tools that might be available house hold handy men.

Cutting some stuff for the stand
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/1764/makinstandox8.jpg

The He-Man Woman-Haters club gathering center:
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/5890/intheshopeu9.jpg

[FlamesFan]

Next on the agenda to build in the next week or two is going to be my sump/refugium.

Here's what I came up with
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/170062sumpdesign.gif

I figure it should work ok, a T would feed about 25% of the water flow through the refugium. I guess questions that are still in the air would be, how thick of acrylic do I need? The dimensions are going to be around 36" long, 18" wide, 18" tall. I hope thats a big enough sump for a 90g. The refugium side will also be about 2/3 of the total length, as long as there's no minimum requirements for skimmer and return sections. Does anyone have a similar setup or could anyone offer some changes to my current design to improve?

[calkrog]

love the work you've done. looks good. now that i know you're in calgary and do this kind of work i may be looking you up :)

I may be wrong, but it looks like you will have level fluctuations in your skimmer chamber the way you have set it up with your baffles. i would increase the height of the first one to the height you need the water to be in the chamber.

as for sump design and materials check out melev's site, he's had a lot of experience building acrylic sumps. www.melevsreef.com

in calgary acrylic materials and weld-on can be bought cheap at GE Polymershapes by the airport.

[FlamesFan]

aw cool man, thanks for the info on where to buy acrylic. Is it a retail front or more of a wholesaler?

Oh and yeh that sounds right, I should have the first baffle the height that I want the water level. Euroreef skimmers want about 7" of water height there.

As far as lookin me up, thats np. I do it all from interior finishing to cabinetry and all kinds of fireplaces, railings and built-ins.

[Zuluman100]

I'm following. My 90g is waiting on one small leak in the return plumbing to be fixed and then ready for 90g of water and 5-6 weeks of cycling. Curious to sea the aquascaping.

[calkrog]

GE Polymershapes is a wholesale place, but they will sell you whatever you want at their shipping counter. last time i was there they gave me a 1/4 sheet of 1/4" acrylic for free because it was easier then doing up an invoice.

[FlamesFan]

ah cool im going to definitely have to stop down there and get my stuff from them. TYVM

[gabe3d]

Love the stand, good job on it. Nice big door, no center brace, and nice looking wood. Also like the circular doodoo you used for drilling the tank, great idea.

[ReefnAv]

Ok. you got me hooked. I want to see what you do with this project. So far so good. I like the fact that you have the He-Man Woman-Haters club. I miss the one that tI used to have...

By the way, good call on the melamine...

[jcpatella]

I agree with calkrog - you could heighten the first baffle closest to the skimmer to the water line you have drawn. That way, as evaporation takes place, the level in the skimmer zone will remain the same while the level in the return zone will drop.

[FlamesFan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11556567#post11556567 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gabe3d
Love the stand, good job on it. Nice big door, no center brace, and nice looking wood. Also like the circular doodoo you used for drilling the tank, great idea.

lol thanks, the "circular doodoo" is an 88 cent toilet bowl wax ring :p

[FlamesFan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11556680#post11556680 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jeffmperez
Ok. you got me hooked. I want to see what you do with this project. So far so good. I like the fact that you have the He-Man Woman-Haters club. I miss the one that tI used to have...

By the way, good call on the melamine...

Yeh, the beer fridge and the TV pretty much sealed the deal. It's a great place to "hide".


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11557680#post11557680 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jcpatella
I agree with calkrog - you could heighten the first baffle closest to the skimmer to the water line you have drawn. That way, as evaporation takes place, the level in the skimmer zone will remain the same while the level in the return zone will drop.

So I should be able to keep the skimmer side baffle at 7" and then say drop the return side to 5-1/2 inches and then only the return side will drop in water level? That would be cool to maintain a consistent skimmer.

[jcpatella]

If you don't maintain a consistent skimmer level you're going to be constantly adjusting it the skimmer. The height of the baffles are up to you. The key is to keep the water level in the return zone lower than the baffle for the skimmer zone.

Here is a picture of my current sump. It's not great, but it shows how the water level stays consistent in the skimmer zone.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc179/jcpatella/90g%20Thread/TankSwitch030.jpg

Actually, now that I'm looking at it, the levels are really close and the upright is blocking the view of the baffle. Either way, the water level is lower now in my fuge and return section, but the water level in the skimmer remains that height.

[FlamesFan]

yah thats exactally what I need then, lower the return section baffle. Thanks for the pic, im going to be goin down on friday to buy my acrylic and hope to have some sump creation pics up possibly sunday. I'll have some RO/DI installation pics up soon too I just gotta get around to going down to home depot for some wall anchors.

[maroun.c]

Thanks for the info

[FlamesFan]

Ok as promised I installed my RO/DI unit tonight from AquaFX, and I took some pics to show fellow RC'ers how easy it was to install an RO/DI unit to an existing laundry room setup!

Ok so first here is the official unit ontop of my washing machine. Specs for it can be found HERE (http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=38&category_id=15&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26)
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/5759/rodiunitwh4.jpg

Ok so the first step was to purchase a Y connection in order to be able to quickly turn the RO/DI unit on without having to change hoses manually. This brass connector cost about 5 bucks. There are also plastic type Y connectors for half the price, but since the water tap is ALWAYS ON I wouldn't put my flood insurance on the line to save a couple bucks. Make sure it has o-rings in it or your gonna have leaks all over.

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/807/hookupsbi3.jpg

Ok the next step was to buy some high quality wall anchors suitable for heavy weight since the RO/DI unit fills with water and becomes fairly heavy. I purchased these guys here which are rated for up to 75 pounds. They are made of metal and rotate sideways when the screw is inserted and sit flat against the back side of the drywall. Another type of anchor to use would be like a butterfly anchor. I wouldn't recommend a straight plastic anchor that doesn't clamp onto the wall.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/2135/wallanchorsho7.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/457/wallanchor2ih8.jpg

Next I marked the wall where the anchor should go. Something that I did that I would recommend is make sure that one scew lands on a stud. Stud's are typically 16" on center, so if you have a stud finder you should be able to find a convenient stud to use for one of the two screws. If not, 2 wall anchors will work fine. Then I drilled in the anchor and then drilled the screw into the anchor.

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/2310/screwintg5.jpg

Next I ran my drain line from the RO/DI unit which gets rid of the waste water. At this point some people choose to re-use their drain water in various things (watering plants), but I have no use for it so down the pipe it goes. ALL washing machines have a drain pipe, so if you can't see yours at first....... look harder, its there.
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/2661/drainpf8.jpg

YAY! Im all done. The feed line is on the right, the RO/DI water for my aquarium comes out of the left.
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/8383/taaadaaavp6.jpg

Ok honestly it took me longer to resize these images and type up this experience. It's really really simple and anyone should be able to do it. I kinda cheated and used a drill to put my anchors in just cause im lazy :p but it's easy enough with a screw driver too.

Like always any questions are welcome just lemme know!

[hulley]

I did very much the same thing in my laundry room except I took a piece of 1x6 and screwd it to the wall studs for added strength then routered the edges and painted the 1x6 the same color as the wall to blend in! I've got the water filling a 32g container. Your build looks great BTW!

[FlamesFan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11570754#post11570754 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hulley
I did very much the same thing in my laundry room except I took a piece of 1x6 and screwd it to the wall studs for added strength then routered the edges and painted the 1x6 the same color as the wall to blend in! I've got the water filling a 32g container. Your build looks great BTW!

Nice, the board would definitely add some support.


On a side note, I picked up a 4x8 sheet of acrylic today! The refugium building will commence this evening!

[FlamesFan]

Ok, Ok I've been really busy lately and have done a lot of work but haven't had much time to upload the pics and update this thread. Im not even sure if anyone is still interested in it but oh well.

So I completed 2 things, both the overflow and the sump/refugium and i'll update with pics and info in the next couple posts.


Bulkheads were inserted in and I decided to silicone them in using GE type I non wildew resistant type that everyone recommended in the DIY forum here on RC
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/6989/overflow1ss0.jpg

Next I cut a 3 pieces for acrylic for the overflow inside the tank. Using Weldon #4 I seemed the sections together making a 17" overflow.
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/8853/overflow2bi0.jpg

Next I painted the inside of the overflow black using Krylon epoxy spray paint also recommened in the DIY forum for painting pluming and stuff inside tanks. I then drilled each side for a 1" bulkhead which will be run off a T from a single return line hidden inside the overflow. (remember I have 1 return and 2 drain lines utilizing the herbie overflow method)
http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/197/overflowih1.jpg

When installing the overflow into the tank I made sure to sand the edge and a bout 1/2" of the surface of the overflow to roughen it up to allow the silicone to create a nice bond between the acrylic and the glass.

[FlamesFan]

I will post pics of the sump/refugium later tonight I promise. Life has been busy lately. I really was wanting some water in this bad boy by now, but what can ya do. This is a hobby!

[Kentanner11]

Cant wait! Nice overflow, when are you going to cut teeth in it?

[FlamesFan]

I coudlnt get my jig to cut even nice teeth properly :( dunno why but it would do great on wood but then just do a nasty job on the acrylic. I've decided to go the easy way and buy some of the lighting egg crate stuff and seem a row of it to the top. Gonna do the same in the fuge. Unless anyone else has a better suggestion?

[Zuluman100]

Yeah, overflow would do better with teeth.

Also, I only use paint on the outside of the tank. With paint in the overflow you'll have water contact. Not 100% sure about that. I would have used black acrylic instead of clear with paint.

[Zuluman100]

Does drilling holes not work instead of cutting teeth?

[FlamesFan]

only reason I used clear acrylic is it was leftovers from a 4x8 sheet I used for my sump. The paint I used is also used by others to paint pipe thats inside water.

Maybe I could have drilled holes, but what is the benefits of cutting teeth over using egg crate? both do the same thing no?

[Kentanner11]

The paint is fine to use inside the tank. I think that teeth would cosmetically look better than egg crate, but not sure.

[FlamesFan]

I thought about the look of the egg crate too, but honestly most of it should be above the water line and out of sight since the water shouldn't rise higher than the top of the acrylic right?

[Kentanner11]

true

[FlamesFan]

Ok so I got around to uploading all the pictures for the sump/refugium build so here goes!.


Picked up a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" acrylic.
http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/4194/sump1nz5.jpg

Cut it all to the right size. The total sump size came in at 36"x16" and 16" deep. I use a jig to cross cut which eliminates kickbacks and binding from pushing long pieces through.
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/2608/sump2ao2.jpg

Using Weldon #4 I seamed all the outside pieces onto the bottom. I used basic quick clamps and boards to support the sides square.
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/5695/sump3uy4.jpg

Next it was time to install the baffles. after setting the first one in I used 1" blocks I cut on the table saw to space the next baffles and lift the middle one. I was worried about seaming inside pieces but it turned out to be easier than the others.
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/8480/sump4fj2.jpg

Next I set the refugium area in place and seamed it in.
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/8493/sump5xs6.jpg

Here's the end product. I drilled the hole that will go to my return pump (Reeflo Snapper). It's based off of a melev design. I still need to make a euro brace to go around the top I just havent had time to get into the shop and setup the router and template.
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/2227/sump6je9.jpg

The entire sump can hold just under 40 gallons and will contain around 25 gallons at any given time. 15 gallons will be enough to room incase the return pump fails and the overflow and pipes drain into the sump.

[tydtran]

Very nice. I wish I had your skills.

[FlamesFan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11715641#post11715641 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tydtran
Very nice. I wish I had your skills.

Honestly it has nothing to do with skills. Having the right tools is a start but really it's just about doing it. I think a lot of people don't DIY due tot he fact they don't wanna get involved in something they don't think they can handle. But thats just silly, anyone can do anything if they take the time to research, and dedicate to doing something properly.

I had no clue how to work with acrylic before this project, but I did a lot of research... and took my time with it.

[Kentanner11]

What kind of blade did you use on the table saw?

[FlamesFan]

To cut the acrylic? I use ferverous(sp) multi cut blade. It's main uses in the shop are to cut melamine, particle board, and MDF since it does a nice cut on those and is a cheap blade. It can also be used on soft metals like aluminum. It works great on the acrylic too, leaving barely any saw blade marks.

[Kentanner11]

Sweet, thanks!

[FlamesFan]

Picked up some parts tonight to get the plumbing started. Pretty excited to get this part done cause that means I can start putting water in this thing! Hmm, at 75GPD its only gonna take like a week to fill it :p

I'll take some pics like usual as I plumb it.
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/3307/plummingpartsav0.jpg

[Kentanner11]

Yea! I love plumbing, filling with water is not the fun part for me; my current hang-up. lol! What return pump(s) are you going to use?

[FlamesFan]

I baught a Reeflo Snapper from http://www.reeflopumps.com/ these guys. rated 2500gph wide open, but i'll be regulating that to something lower. I have a T to support 2 return lines coming out of my overflow box. If you look at the pics of the overflow box in this post you can see a bulkhead on the side. Can't wait to start putting it all together this weekend.

[crzy_pig]

Your project is going great ! your sump design is very clean!

[FlamesFan]

After 3 more stops at the hardware store to get more parts and exchange ones I didnt need I think I can actually get this plumbing done! The wall of plumbing pieces is so overwhelming, and this is my first time plumbing so yah, the guy in the plumbing department has become my new best friend. Im sure he is sick of me by now.

[bklynmet]

Very nice build!. I'll be tagging along too. How did you know drilling the bottom of the tank was safe (non-tempered glass)?

The teeth in an overflow are there to keep snails and small fish from taking a trip to the sump. Eggcrate will work for snails larger than its opening but smaller snails may make the trip over.

Here is someone who used a metal template and 'soaped it up' to get the router to glide easier... http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=11670971#post11670971

[FlamesFan]

Wow, thanks man. Honestly the only way I knew it wasn't tempered glass was there was no sticker. When I started the first hole all I was thinking was "if this goes boom, i'll be buying a new tank". The tank was also built by the LFS I purchased it from. I questioned the store and the guy gave me the "I dunno it could be" speal, so I just took the risk.


Thanks for the link and suggestions on the overflow. I still haven't dedicated to how im going to do it yet.

[M. L. Fish]

Stand looks great! Good job. Good luck with the project, can't wait to see it up and running. PS: See you in the playoffs, where Luongo will shut down Iginla. Go Canucks! LOL

[FlamesFan]

LOL Now that we got CUJO as backup nothing stands in our way...... *end sarcasm*.

[maroun.c]

looking at the parts you are using for your plumbin I can see one thta is metal (most probably Cooper?) Are you sure this is safe to do as I believe it's not.

[M. L. Fish]

I've got the same RO/DI unit, and am very happy with it, although it is a little slow. Try cutting the teeth in the acrylic with a band saw. Use a 3 TPI blade and the acrylic won't re-fuse behind the cut so much. Works for me.

[FlamesFan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11759778#post11759778 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by maroun.c
looking at the parts you are using for your plumbin I can see one thta is metal (most probably Cooper?) Are you sure this is safe to do as I believe it's not.

I actually realized that as soon as I took the pic, and exchanged it for just a ball valve like the others the next day. I couldn't find pvc gate valves :(

[FlamesFan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11760158#post11760158 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by M. L. Fish
I've got the same RO/DI unit, and am very happy with it, although it is a little slow. Try cutting the teeth in the acrylic with a band saw. Use a 3 TPI blade and the acrylic won't re-fuse behind the cut so much. Works for me.

I've noticed its a little slow too. I've been filling some containers to store water and it took a while to fill them.

[calkrog]

any updates ? i want to see more pics :)