Lowest light for pink birdsnest to keep its color in nano?

[dendro982]

In your experience, what is the lowest light for a pink birdsnest to keep its color - in nano or pico?

[zma21]

In a nano i would say 70 watt MH.

You could get away with t-5 in most cases, but they don't make the bulbs short enough for a nano or pico setting. unless of course you are going with a 20gallon or something.

[jdieck]

For birdnest to color up nicely MH is better than fluorecent the higher the better also 10 K is bwetter than 20K might be the PAR is higher with 10 K but that has been my experience.

[DrBegalke]

I would agree, at least a 70w MH.

[dendro982]

Thanks! Who else tried it - post too, please.

[eshook]

I have 2 frags of pink birdsnest in my stock nc 24 (PC lighting). I would argue they are not at the best colors possible, but the branches have grown 1/2"+ in ~2 months. They are at the top of the rock work (3-4" from the water line) and have been growing well.

This is not optimal, but they have been healthy and growing.

[dendro982]

How many watts, and has color at least the hint of pink?

[eshook]

2x36W 50/50 PC lights.

I think they both look pink. This isn't the greatest picture, but you can see the color of both frags. They are actually a little brighter than the picture, but its pretty close.

http://ericandsara.dyndns.org/pictures/current/100_5330.JPG

What do you think?

[dendro982]

Wow! Love it.
Can you post the tank shot - to see birdsnest placement in relation to the light?

I have one frag in maybe 6" from the top of the tank, under 2x36W 10,000 PC (AH Supply retrofit) - all brown and much more fluffy, may be because it is filter feeders tank.

Any details will help.

[eshook]

Thanks. Here is a FTS. Its not great and is about a month old, but my wife has both of the cameras right now :)

http://ericandsara.dyndns.org/pictures/current/100_5325.JPG

Details are:
SG 1.024
Salt: Instant Ocean (4-5 gallon WC weekly)
Dose: 1 cap full of Reef calcium & carbonate during WC
Feed: combo of pellet, flake, & frozen

If you have other questions let me know.

[dendro982]

Thank you, most helpful!
I have NC12 and NC6, using Instant Ocean salt and Seachem additives, it will be easy for me to make my settings close to yours.

What do you have in the back chambers?

[eshook]

It sounds like you have about the same setup.

Chamber 1: Rubble (bottom 1/3), 1/2 sponge, air-stone
Chamber 2: heater, 1/2 sponge, carbon
Chamber 3: maxi-jet 1200

[dendro982]

The last questions:
- temperature,
- how do you protect lid from salt creep from air stone,
- 2nd chamber: how sponge and carbon located in relation to heater (I have heater only there)
- sponges are cleaned with water changes, right?

Seems we had covered it all.
Most grateful for your help.

[eshook]

1. Temperature: 80* (heater set at 79*)
2. I don't protect the lid, I wipe the lights during WC (once a week)
3.
- The heater is suctioned to the left side
- The sponge is shoved to the right side
- The carbon is shoved between them (resting mostly on the sponge)
4. Sponges are cleaned with WC

Not a problem. I'm happy to be of help. Now lets get to your setup. What is dramatically different? I wonder if the coral response is just different. I noticed you are our northernly neighbor, but can you get another frag to test its response?

How old are your bulbs? Do you clean the acrylic splashguard? How often?

[dendro982]

Thank you very much!

This may leave chaotic impression, but I just tried to improve:
I have Nano-Cubes, but kept there sps only for a short time, with not a standard setup:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g78/dendro982/Nano-Cube%206g/NC12/Sept07_07.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g78/dendro982/Nano-Cube%206g/NC12/Aug27_07.jpg

Mostly in this 10g tank:
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g78/dendro982/10g%20reeftank/Aug19_07c.jpg
(birdsnest in in the center top)
and now in longer similar tank on the same place.

Have empty NC6 right now, can try to repeat your setup at smaller scale, after finishing with current problem (Aquafuge type of refugium).

May use either of this 70W lamps - PC or MH,
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g78/dendro982/mix/Dec23_07all.jpg
but green pavona started losing color under MH, I removed this light. Could be result of high Mg threatment, not light. Or need in actinic supplement - who knows.

The bulbs are changed every 6 months, splash guard is cleaned as necessary, not much drops on it, more dust.

I tried 2 frags from different sources, both are looking the same, shorter and fluffier, than your.
At arrival, in QT:
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g78/dendro982/mix/BirdsnestMay17.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g78/dendro982/10g%20reeftank/old5gquarantineMay25_06.jpg

Later, in this 5g hex (direct sun and 27W PC, later was moved to 10g with 72W):
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g78/dendro982/10g%20reeftank/hexAug26a.jpg

become this:
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g78/dendro982/mix/BirdsnestSept1a.jpg

and under 72W, near the elkhorn, same level:
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g78/dendro982/mix/BabyMaximaOct18.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g78/dendro982/mix/BabyMaximaOct24.jpg

Two other possible things, influences brownish color:
- I'm using tap water (but stylopora became pinkish under MH), may switch to DI in one small tank with not much water changes,
- the tanks are filter feeders tanks, fed multiple times every day - could be too much food and nutrients for sps (even without NO4 and PO4) and sps polyps could live on finest food, relying less on the light - those explaining the fluffiness and polyps extension.

But I got your pointers, thanks again!!

[eshook]

I'm willing to bet tap water is the culprit. I use RO/DI for my tanks. I would recommend buying some RO/DI for the next 2-3 WC and see if the color improves.

The high food content could be it, but I'm unfamiliar with this type of setup so I honestly can't say for sure.

Let us know how it turns out!