Just Starting Out What Equipment Will I Need Please Help

[Tim-Bakewell]

I have been doing my research with books and the net on starting up keeping Marine Fish.

I want to set up a Fish and Reef system.

I am going to be using the Fluval 125 Roma Aquarium (125 Litre) and am unsure of the exact equipment I will need.

Here is a list of the items I think I will need, if somebody can point me in the right direction I would be most greatful.

1. Aquarium
2. Filter External (Not sure what size I will need)
3. Spray Bar
4. Protein Skimmer (Again not sure what type or size I will need)
5. Water Test Kit (I was going to buy NUTRAFIN MASTER TEST KIT)
6. Hydrometer
7. Air Stones??
8. Heaters (How many which type)
9. Lighting (What types of tubes and How many)
10. Salt (Which brand is best)
11. Water
12. Live rock
13. Sand (What type would be the best to use and should this be put in before the live rock or after I have seen and heard both methods)

I am sure there are things I have missed off the list but think I have got the main parts to start off.

[mwwhite]

Hard to answer - much of it is personal choice. There are many kinds of aquariums. To a point, bigger is better/easier. There's a debate over acrylic vs. glass. Nose around a little and see what you like.

You don't need a filter if you have a protein skimmer. Euro-Reef is a great brand. Size depends on aquarium size.

You need to be able to test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, calcium, alkalinity, magnesium. Salinity, too, but you included a hydrometer in your list. Best choices are either a floating hydrometer or a refractometer. Swing-arm hydrometers aren't very good.

No airstone.

There are a few decent heaters, such as Jaeger. Size/qty depend on how many gallons, among other factors (is it cold where you'll keep the aquarium?). You may not need a heater if you run HQI (Metal Halide) lights.

Lighting depends on what kind of corals you intend to keep. SPS have a high demand, softies have a low demand. T5's are a good compromise to Metal Halides, don't require as much power, and don't generate as much heat. Qty/wattage also depend on tank size. You'll probably want some kind of blue (actinic, maybe 22000K), daylight (5000K-6000K), and some kind of bright white (maybe a super actinic, around 15000K-17000K).

There are different opinions about salt mixes. Tropic Marin is great, but pricey. A lot of us use Instant Ocean or Reef Crystals, which is fine. Don't forget about something to mix/store. If your tank is large enough, you may want to consider a Rubbermaid Brute 44-gal. And a pump for circulation (MaxiJet - maybe a 1200).

Water? Filter your own with an RO/DI unit? If so, check out SpectraPure MaxCap.

Live Rock? I think all you can get are Tonga or Fiji. I don't personally see the difference. Regardless, if cured, you may not see a nitrogen cycle.

Sand? Also a debatable point. Deep sand bed? Shallow sand bed. Bare bottom? You can ague for all three. If you opt for LS, Carib Sea Arag-Alive is fine.

HTH.

[Akaash]

Filtration - Is the tank RR (Pre-drilled)? If not you could use an overflow. If so consider getting a Sump / wet/dry. For filtration. Bio-balls are questionable. Consider replacing them with live rock.

Skimmer - will vary by brand as well as preformance.

Hydrometer - all are basically the same. Some can stay in tank, some are periodic. Some have a thermometer built in. Also it's always good to consider getting a refractometer instead. It's much more precise.

Heater - General rule is 4-5 watts per gallon. Depending on what lighting system you choose you may be able to get away with less. Halides will produce much more heat than Power Compact (PC) or T-5.

Lighting - I'd go T-5 personally. Burns cooler, bulbs put out a correct spectrum of light longer (12-18 months versus 9-12 months with other bulbs). Cheaper to run (use less wattage), and put out more lumens than other bulbs. If you want the shimmer effect of MHs you can just use lunar lights. But the choice is really up to you.

Live rock - Just pick something you like

Sand - Go with Crushed Coral or Aragonite. Will help buffer your PH.

Water - Best bet is an RO/DI unit. Tap water CAN work but you'll never really know exactly what is going into your tank.

Salt - Reef Crystals, Torpic Marin, or Red Sea. Red Sea also makes a RO specific salt with boosted trace elements and calcium.

Depending on filtration/flow you'll want a powerhead or two. The spraybar probably won't be enough.

[Tim-Bakewell]

Thanks to you both for your help. I will continue with my reaserch for now before taking the plunge and your pointers will come in useful Many Thanks

[cilyjr]

as far as heaters go may i recommend getting 2 smaller watt heaters rather than one large one.
say you need a 200 watt heater get 2 100 watt ones instead. that way if one gets stuck on (as they sometimes do) it will be much harder to overheat your tank and kill off everything before you notice it.