View Full Version : hair algea problem

02/10/2008, 11:49 AM
i am having a real problem with hair algea. my water chemistry is perfect. nitrite-0,ammonia-0,nitrate-0,ph8.2,phosphate-0,alkalinity-300. i have a typhoon hang on protein skimmer. i have 96 watts of actinic light and a 250 watt metal halid 10000k bulb. plenty of snails and hermits. any advice would help

02/10/2008, 11:58 AM
Turn off your lights for 3 days. Do a few small water changes during and after the 3 days. scrub out what you can.

02/10/2008, 12:00 PM
so the light will keep it from growing and the water changes will take out the mineralrs that make it grow. thanks for the advice

02/10/2008, 12:13 PM
It'll just come back unless you find the source.

Excessive nutrients and too strong lighting can contribute to this.

What brand test kits for nitrate and phosphate ?

02/10/2008, 12:22 PM
Do you have a phosban reactor? I highly recommend that to help combat hair algae. Also here is the main post on the 3 days lights out, one day actinic only technique:

And here is one that reviews phophate removal media (it looks like PHOSar is the winner depending on what you are trying to accomplish):

02/10/2008, 02:38 PM
I agree with billy beau--approach an algae problem as a phosphate problem
Here are some tips

make sure you only use r/0 water

feed less at one time and rinse all the frozen cubes of mysis etc with r/o water before using

once a week take a turkey baster to live rock and substrate--lightly baste as to get these organics etc back up into the water column where they can be filtered out

make sure the flow in your tank is between 20 -40 times the volume of your tank in gph (some lps might not like this)

make sure the flow through your sump matches the output of your skimmer. Unskimmed water returne to the tank still contains organics and phosphates and they are usually returned to the bottom layers of your tank only to have to gradually float back up to the top where the overflow usually is. This allows lots of time for the algae to consume the phosphates again

add a phosban reactor and run phosban and or run a second reactor with carbon in it also. Carbon can remove some phosphates and nitrates indirectly as is adsorbing the organics that give the water a yellow tinge

add a refugium with lots of chaeto macro algae--this consumes nitrates and phosphates but remember you must harvest the chaeto to actually remove the phosphates from the water column

02/10/2008, 02:41 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11811599#post11811599 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Billybeau1
It'll just come back unless you find the source.

Excessive nutrients and too strong lighting can contribute to this.

What brand test kits for nitrate and phosphate ?

alot of times these test give an undectable reading because the algae is consuming the phosphates and nitrates as fast as they are being imported

02/10/2008, 05:06 PM
i use api test kits salt water kit and master reef. my lighting is 250w metal halide 10000k and 96 watt actinic. i use a purigen filter media bag for my nitrates but when i test my water my phosphates are always 0. i have cleaned a lot of the algea off there is still some but it is not as bad as it first was. my local pet store owner just gave me a pack of algone bags to try. it is a new product he says. i have had it in the tank for about two weeks now and it has no seemed to help at all. i am thinking about starting a sump and buying a phos reactor.

02/10/2008, 08:22 PM
You will almost always test 0 for phosphates. It is held up in the rocks, sand, and algae. It will slowly leach out and cause issues. I use API for that as well. I figure if that test ever shows anything, then I need to do some serious water changes (and change my phosphate removal media).

Here is a post that discusses phosphate removal media and you can see what happens to hair algae when you use it:

02/10/2008, 09:40 PM
I am running Chemipure Elite and Seagel in my canister filter, hoping they help my hair algae problem also....