Frag & Quarantine Tank Setups??

[Rouselb]

Just trying to get some definition on the proper setup for both a frag and QA tank. I have a 200 gal Mixed reef, with a 75 gal Fuge. Just for clarification, new corals should be quarantined and diped, so do you need a separate tank just for QA and another for Frag? Is the frag connected to the main fuge? Is a fuge or something needed on the QA tank? Thanks for the help

[fatrip]

well the QT tank should be different then the frag tank becuase if you do get a diseased coral you would need to clean out the QT tank after words. what i do for a QT tank is set up a small tank with a heater, power head and a hang on back filter about 2 days before it get the corals or fish. for a frag tank, you can do one of 2 things have a stand alone system with a sump or you can tie it into your main sump. i suggest main sump because it is easyer to keep parameters stable, and it is less work...lol...but never hook the QT to the main system. it is a quarentin becasue you dont want anything bad to get into your system.

[Rouselb]

okay, so i understand the frag tank, but the quarantine is the question still. Heres what i have so far, i have a 35 gal tank, filled about half way, i have a PH mounted in the lower corner, i have a heater set at the same temp as my main tank, and i have a 36" PC light.
Questions:
1. Can i take some of the macro algae from my fuge, and just add it to the new QT tank??
2. Do i have to use a hang on filter, and if so, what media do you use in it??

[fatrip]

you dont need the macro in there. there will be really no nutrients to export. would only put in there if you are QTing fish. i use a hang on back just to run carbon it keep that water clearer and if there is any die off from the frag plugs and or rocks to new corals are on it will take that out of the water as well. but it sounds like you are on the right track. what type of crals will you be getting in?? because if you are getting in some SPS i wouldnt keep it under that light too long unless you make a rack to put it more towards the top of the tank to get more direct light. Also when going from the QT tank to the main i would light acclimate them by starting them at the bottom of the tank and slowing raising them over a peroid of a week or 2. if you have any more ? just ask i'd be happy to help ya. :)

[Rouselb]

Iv been trying to keep a mixed tank for yrs, more recently ( about a yr or so), i have been getting into sps. I used to just buy frags from the same farm grower, and i didnt QT or dip. Now, im getting into buying frags form others, so im now dosing interceptor for 12 hrs on every Acro, and dipping all corals in TMCC for 20 min. I want to be more cautious, i dont want to get red bugs or flat AEFW so im trying to do this right. It looks like all i need to do is throw in some carbon and i should be good to go for now. Thanks for your help. If im missing something let me know.

[fatrip]

when you do treat with interceptor or TMCC take the carbon out untill the treament is done....also i have found that with the interceptor if you do about 15x the recommended amount for 24hr you dont need to do it 3 times...just my experience im sure someone will want to argue with me about it but this worked for me. i would also QT in comeing fish the worst is getting a new fish and having it kill all of your other fish with a disease...had it happen before...kinda sucks...lol...

[tim8111]

In my opinion Interceptor at a high dose for 6 hours as a preventive should work. Just my opinion I could be wrong. :)

[Rouselb]

Do you only use interceptor on Acros? How bout Montis and Millis??

[tim8111]

I dip every coral in interceptor. I also dip them in TMCC and Flatworm exit just to be safe. :)

[reefcrazy0821]

how long do you dip your corals. i never knew how long.

[Rouselb]

10-12 hrs

[fatrip]

you dont need to dip millies and montis in intercepter because red bugs dont inhabit these corals.

[tim8111]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11951795#post11951795 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fatrip
you dont need to dip millies and montis in intercepter because red bugs dont inhabit these corals.


I agree but, we do not know enough about the life cycle to know if they can hitch hike on the coral. Look at Velvet, it can be introduced to a tank via water on a snail shell. All I am saying is better safe than sorry. Of course I have about 200 pieces of corals in and out of my systems a week.

Tim

[fatrip]

dam i wish i could find that artical, but someone was studying there life cycle and they dont hatch from eggs and they cant live with out an acro present for more than 5 days. so if you keep your corals in QT for more than 5 days you can rule out RB as long as there was were no acros in there. i wish i could find the artical. i will look harder. but iguess for some one who turns corals around as fast as you do it would be benifical to dip all of them.

[tim8111]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11952104#post11952104 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fatrip
dam i wish i could find that artical, but someone was studying there life cycle and they dont hatch from eggs and they cant live with out an acro present for more than 5 days. so if you keep your corals in QT for more than 5 days you can rule out RB as long as there was were no acros in there. i wish i could find the artical. i will look harder. but iguess for some one who turns corals around as fast as you do it would be benifical to dip all of them.

If you do find it please link it, I would be interested in reading it.

Tim

[fatrip]

i'l try and find it today.