PDA

View Full Version : Octopus Recirculating Skimmer Installation ??


Lightsluvr
02/27/2008, 12:50 PM
I have the Octopus DNW-200 Recirculating skimmer.

Good grief, Batman - can anybody find instructions on installation of these skimmers? Very frustrating - no manual, no photos, nothing - and cannot find anything online... I would even be happy with an antecdotal description of a successful installation...

I read that Octopus says to raise the skimmer so it won't overflow...huh? The darn thing is 30" tall. It is designed to be mounted externally. It is a closed system. Why must it be raised 4"?

Has anybody installed this or a predecessor skimmer outside the sump. I would love to hear from you. Links to threads also would be appreciated.

Thanks!

LL

Jim_S
02/27/2008, 01:05 PM
Just make sure the exhaust goes over your sump edge, set-up your feed either via drain or pump, then set the flow rate from the feed. 1-1.5 times your system volume through the skimmer will be sufficient.

150gph takes around 24secs
175gph takes around 21secs
200gph takes around 18secs
225gph takes around 16secs
250gph takes around 14secs
275gph takes around 13secs
300gph takes around 12secs
325gph takes around 11secs
350gph takes around 10secs

from there, just run the skimmer with the gate valve wide open and let it break in for a day or two. Then, you can begin to adjust the gate valve and set the water where you want it in the neck.

Heres how I set up my external:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m199/jimdogg187/Equipment_update_jul_07.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m199/jimdogg187/Drain_2.jpg

Lightsluvr
02/27/2008, 01:45 PM
Thanks for the tip - that's a clean setup you have.

My skimmer requires a separate feed pump which will be in the sump. I selected the Mag3 which is close to 1.5 times my tank volume. I put a valve on this pump's output to throttle it back if needed. The Skimmer drain will dump back into the sump.

Here is what has me confused.

If I have to raise the skimmer (like yours), it won't fit in my stand. I have a "generous" stand with over 31" inside clearance. But this new version of the recirculating skimmer is almost 30" tall. Fortunately the cup can be removed with less than an inch of additional headroom. What will happen if the skimmer is mounted on the tank stand floor at the same level as the sump? The drain will easily clear the top edge of the sump tank.

LL

Jim_S
02/27/2008, 01:50 PM
You're welcome, and thanks :)

JFYI, your skimmer can also be fed via drain, but a mag 3 will work just fine too.

If your exhaust clears the sump, no need at all to raise it. You're golden :) Not sure someone or something said that. Only time you'd need to raise it would be to clear the sump edge.

Jim

Lightsluvr
02/27/2008, 01:56 PM
Actually the thing comes with various lengths of thin wall 1-1/2 PVC that could be configured several ways to clear the top edge of the sump. How high does the vertical pipe (running up from the Double Union valve) have to be? What purpose does it serve?

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff125/lightsluvr/Skimmer.jpg

LL

Jim_S
02/27/2008, 02:21 PM
The vertical pipe sets the minimum level of water inside the skimmer. If you raise the T higher than the factory recommends, you will only be able to skim wet, and will probably have some serious overflow issues down the line. Not a good idea.

As far as how high, it all depends on the skimmer.

Lightsluvr
02/27/2008, 03:07 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11958082#post11958082 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jimdogg187
The vertical pipe sets the minimum level of water inside the skimmer. If you raise the T higher than the factory recommends, you will only be able to skim wet, and will probably have some serious overflow issues down the line. Not a good idea.

As far as how high, it all depends on the skimmer.

Thanks for staying with me on this... where do I find the factory recommendations for my skimmer?

LL

Jim_S
02/27/2008, 03:37 PM
Thats a good question. Did you buy it used or new? If new, the vendor should be able to help, or at least guide you. If not, I'm pretty sure that someone at octopusskimmer.com would be able to answer your question. You could also post a question in the octopus thread asking if someone with the same skimmer can measure for you. That might work if you're not in a hurry.

When my skimmer came in the mail, there was only one way to put it together, so thats how I got mine up and running.

Is there anyway you can just put it together so that it looks like the picture you posted above? I know that on most RC style skimmers the exhaust T does not go above the transition on the body.

HTH

Jim

saltysupply
02/27/2008, 03:51 PM
if its a DNW-200 then contact coralvue as they are the manufacturer

Lightsluvr
02/27/2008, 05:33 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11958807#post11958807 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by saltysupply
if its a DNW-200 then contact coralvue as they are the manufacturer

Wish me luck...based on my experience with Coralvue, I'll need it.

Jim - Yes it was purchased brand new - out of the box - with no instructiions...in English or Chinese. The parts diagram refers to a Chinese (language) website from the actual manufacturer...

Ah, me...

LL

lark
02/27/2008, 06:02 PM
Great looking set up, Jim. (Although, two words: hose clamps!) Interesting that you were able to get your return pump on the same side as your skimmer. Do you have any problems with the long run from the output of the skimmer?

I'm thinking about an RC skimmer, so it's nice to see people's set ups. Looks like you're running your ball valve to the skimmer almost all the way open. Is that what this skimmer tends to need?

Jim_S
02/27/2008, 06:19 PM
Hose clamps!!??? We don't need no stinking hose clamps!!!!

;)

Lark, YHPM

Lightsluvr
02/27/2008, 09:29 PM
I called Marine Solutions and got some answers to questions about the standpipe, etc. Also ordered another stick of that "special" UPVC that comes with the DNW-200 Skimmer. I learned that it is metric, and will not work with standard (USA) 1-1/2" fittings...
One question for experts here: I plan to put the Mag3 pump in the center chamber of my sump to feed the skimmer. Is it OK to dump the output of the skimmer directly into the return chamber so it will be pumped back to the tank?
Any problems with that plan?

Thanks again, folks.

LL

JCTewks
02/28/2008, 12:10 AM
You may experience some microbubble issues by dumping the output into the return chamber....especially after feeding oily food.

Lightsluvr
02/28/2008, 05:35 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11963040#post11963040 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JCTewks
You may experience some microbubble issues by dumping the output into the return chamber....especially after feeding oily food.

Of course you are correct... I will dump back in chamber 2 where the output will go through the baffle and foam bubble filter. Thanks for the reminder...

LL

Lightsluvr
03/01/2008, 09:54 AM
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff125/lightsluvr/Skimmer.jpg

The above factory photo shows an "out-of -box" example of the DNW-200 Recirculating skimmer.

The skimmer comes with (3) 7" and (1) 19" pieces of the gray UPVC tubing that along with an elbow and a "T" is described as the "Water Outlet System" on the product diagram.

My question: See photo below. Obviously water flows from below out the gray tubing into the sump. What is the purpose of the tubing above the "T"? How high should the tubing extend above the "T" to avoid any potential problems? Must it extend above the collection cup, or is my suggested setup sufficient? (Again, the user is left on his own devices to figure this out.)

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff125/lightsluvr/SkimmerOutflowPB.jpg

Who has an answer for this skimmer newbie's mystery?

Thanks.

LL

spongebobby
03/01/2008, 10:51 AM
I would flip-flop those pieces on the tee (top & bottom) which in turn will lower the level inside the skimmer. Then use the gate valve to control level inside the skimmer. They way you have it now the water level will be about where you would want it if your mesh-modding the pump.

Put the smaller length pipe first then the tee then the piece you have currently coming out of the gate valve would go on top of the tee.

I had mine set-up where with the valve wide open the level was about where the feed pump tee inside the body is located. Yours will be at the transition.

If the power goes out it could drain out the venturi line with the water level so high.

JCTewks
03/01/2008, 12:51 PM
Agreed with SB.

THe pipe coming out the top of the tee only needs to be higher than the top of the neck....water will NEVER make it that high, but better safe than sorry right :D

Lightsluvr
03/01/2008, 01:42 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11982386#post11982386 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spongebobby
I would flip-flop those pieces on the tee (top & bottom) which in turn will lower the level inside the skimmer. Then use the gate valve to control level inside the skimmer. They way you have it now the water level will be about where you would want it if your mesh-modding the pump.

Put the smaller length pipe first then the tee then the piece you have currently coming out of the gate valve would go on top of the tee.

I had mine set-up where with the valve wide open the level was about where the feed pump tee inside the body is located. Yours will be at the transition.

If the power goes out it could drain out the venturi line with the water level so high.

Thanks for the tips.

Only one problem with this suggestion. If I reverse the pieces, the outlet will not clear the sump sides.
I specifically cut the lower piece to just barely clear the sump. I can't raise or lower the skimmer. I can't change the height of the sump sides. Maybe I can trim another 1/2" off the lower piece, but that's it if I stay with PVC.
Do I need to use the shorter piece and then go with a flexible hose from the "T" into the sump?

LL

Lightsluvr
03/01/2008, 01:42 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11982386#post11982386 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spongebobby
I would flip-flop those pieces on the tee (top & bottom) which in turn will lower the level inside the skimmer. Then use the gate valve to control level inside the skimmer. They way you have it now the water level will be about where you would want it if your mesh-modding the pump.

Put the smaller length pipe first then the tee then the piece you have currently coming out of the gate valve would go on top of the tee.

I had mine set-up where with the valve wide open the level was about where the feed pump tee inside the body is located. Yours will be at the transition.

If the power goes out it could drain out the venturi line with the water level so high.

Thanks for the tips.

Only one problem with this suggestion. If I reverse the pieces, the outlet will not clear the sump sides.
I specifically cut the lower piece to just barely clear the sump. I can't raise or lower the skimmer. I can't change the height of the sump sides. Maybe I can trim another 1/2" off the lower piece, but that's it if I stay with PVC.
Do I need to use the shorter piece and then go with a flexible hose from the "T" into the sump?

LL

Another duplicate post - sorry

Lightsluvr
03/02/2008, 06:14 AM
OK, I've been studying my skimmer setup. I think I can lower the "T" about another 1" and have the water outlet pipe resting right on my sump side. Actually that's not a bad thing as the sump will add support to the outlet pipe which dumps into the sump's center chamber. I will experiment with this and see where it places the "T". Hopefully a solution, so I don't have to scrap the whole deal.

LL