Los' 360 reef CAD plans and setup

[Los]

After drooling at all the great tanks here (especially Mako's), I took the plunge. I've ordered a 360 gallon 96Lx36Wx25H from Miracles in Glass, with Starphire on all four sides. I'd like to start off by thanking the real brains behind this tank:

-Nick (a.k.a. rlxwcapt on this board), who came up with many of the ideas. If you live in Maryland and want some professional help, I highly recommend him.
-Derek (from Miracles in Glass), who is making the tank and who has helped me think through and get exactly what I want. Definitely two thumbs up.
-Paul (from Oceans Motions). Paul has been a HUGE help selecting everything from who to make the tank to how to get the best bang for my buck while setting up a closed-loop. If you are thinking about a closed-loop, definitely call Paul. His advice as well as his equipment are second to none.
-MakoJ (from this board). Mako probably has no clue why I'm thanking him, but many of the ideas for setting this up were plagiarized from him. His beautiful tank was also "the last straw" which pushed me over the edge to set up my own tank. If you want to see a future TOTM, check out the thread for his tank at: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=987151&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
-Finally, my wife. She is a total babe, the soon-to-be mother of my first child, and a very tolerant spouse considering my obsession with this hobby.

Now to the design pics:

This is a front view of the tank. It is going to be mounted in the wall and will be viewable from all four sides. Because of this, I especially wanted to leave the front and back unobstructed.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_tank_v5_full_front_view-med.jpg

This is a bottom view of the closed loop plumbing. The key to this setup is the flow. I'll explain how that works in a later thread:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_Bottom_2-D-med.jpg


You can see the overflow, which is only on the right side of the tank. There will be two Dursos and an open-ended emergency overflow as a backup.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_tank_v5_overflow_plumbing_1-med.jpg

This is the right side of the tank and a close-up of the overflow box:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_tank_v5_right_side-med.jpg

Here is another view of the closed loop holes. There are ten of them, with the two large intakes split into 4 - in case an anemone or fish happens to wander too close.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_Bottom_2-D_pic__3-med.jpg

Here is a top view of the whole tank:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_tank_v5_top_view-med.jpg

Finally, here's the last CAD pic showing the front left view of the tank:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_tank_v5_top_1-med.jpg

Thanks for taking the time to look at my baby!

Cheers,

Los

[Los]

Here is the picture of the flow. I want to grow mainly SPS, but I think this design will let me have a few LPS and softies in the corners - which is exactly what I wanted. As you can see, there are going to be two separate Oceans Motions 4 ways (in addition to the sump return which is not pictured here). These two are going to be powered independently by 2 Sequence Reeflo Darts @ 3600gph each. The pumps are going to alternate being on and off every few hours, with just an hour of overlap each time.
This is a picture of the bottom of the tank:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_Bottom_2-D-med.jpg

Note how the returns are all pointed just a tad up from horizontal EXCEPT for the two furthest from the middle (i.e. closest to the right and left sides respectively). Those are pointed up at 45 degree angles. The idea is to have a circular flow turning first clockwise for a few hours and then counter clockwise for a few hours (if you were facing the front of the tank), with an hour of turbulence in between with both pumps on. Here is a diagram of the flow, but please note that the placement of the returns are approximate in this picture:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607tank_flow_pic.jpg
The pumps will turn on and off on this schedule, designed to imitate the changing tides:
Pump 1 Pump 2
hr 1 on on
hr 2 on off
hr 3 on off
hr 4 on on
hr 5 off on
hr 6 off on
hr 7 on on
hr 8 on off
hr 9 on off
hr10 on on
hr11 off on
hr12 off on

I guess my main concerns are two:

1. Will the Reeflo Darts get damaged by being turned on and off a few times each day?
2. Can this many holes be drilled into the bottom without causing structural weakness? I guess Derek with Miracles will know, but any outside opinions would be most welcome. (EDIT: Derek said it was not a problem, as long as there was enough space between each hole to accommodate the rule of: space between each hole > 3 x diameter of the larger hole).

If you have any suggestions, I'd love the input.

Thanks for taking the time to look at my tank.

Los

[Jflip2002]

no way the dart will be enough flow for SPS. Unless youre running two of them. I have a 190, was going to use a hammerhead, and was even told THAT wont be enough for SPS, while my tank is half your size. Id reconsider the pump size. Id go at least hammerhead.

[Los]

Thanks for bringing that up, Jflip. I'm actually going to be running three Darts: 1 each on the two closed loops and 1 on the sump return. There will be at least two running at all times (sump return + at least one of the closed loops). About 25% of the time all three will be running. When two pumps are running, I should have about 5,600 gph. When all three are running, that should climb to 9,200 gph. That works out to 15x turnover 75% of the time and and 25x turnover 25% of the time.

Do you still think that's not enough? I'm really concerned about noise, since this will be in my living room.

Thanks,

Los

[djbacon]

Carlos- this may be your greatest mad scientist tank yet - I can imagine your living room already filled with trash cans full of curing rock...boy does it smell in there. :-)

Looking forward to seeing this progress

[ricks]

Los, great drawings...

Where will the 3 darts be drawing water from, closed loop?

Also are you going to have rock covering the return inlets? If so you have nowhere near enough flow for SPS. Those Darts are not pressure rated and they drop off fast with head pressure.

Keep us posted...

[makoJ]

just found the thread and thanks lol

You have the one thing I wish my tank had is the extra 6" in depth. Will be following your thread it looks like you off to a great start and I can't wait to see it develop!

[rlxwcapt]

Ricks, The rock will not cover the returns from the OM. They will be worked into the rock work. What we are trying to create is tidal current. We had planned to have 2 vortex but have decided to wait on this. But this could always be added in the future. Paul and I spent many hours talking about this design. Keep in mind that you do not have head pressure in a closed loop. Yes you will loose some flow do to fittings. What pumps do you have on your tank?

[Jflip2002]

For noise, why not run say a hammerhead, and then run some Tunzes? the hammerhead brings around 5600 GPH IIRC, and the Tunzes 6101s add another 3000 gph themselves. Or go with bigger ones. That'll help with the noise I think.

[dogstar74]

I'm only worried about the number of holes in the bottom. I too want to have a type of tidal flow that causes a circular motion in the tank. Then the reverse. Are you sure you wouldn't do better with an A.G.E. tank? A PVC bottom surely wouldn't crack. But hey, it's also gonna cost you several more thousand for it probably.

Other than that I will be subscribed and watch with saliva dripping from my mouth!

Aaron.

[aspinn]

wow thats an impressive setup... cant wait to seewhat she will look like in action

[rlxwcapt]

Jflip, We want to try to stay away from powerer heads. We want the tank to look as natural as posible.

Dogstar, That was a concern for us as well. Derek at Miracle uses a formula for glass strength. Keep in mind that the bottom is 96" x 36". I have a 120 that has 10 holes drilled in the bottom and I have no problems.

[Los]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11997129#post11997129 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by djbacon
Carlos- this may be your greatest mad scientist tank yet - I can imagine your living room already filled with trash cans full of curing rock...boy does it smell in there. :-)

Looking forward to seeing this progress

Thanks, Rick! I look forward to you visiting and enjoying the smell in person. I also look forward to swapping frags with your nano.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11999070#post11999070 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by makoJ
just found the thread and thanks lol

You have the one thing I wish my tank had is the extra 6" in depth. Will be following your thread it looks like you off to a great start and I can't wait to see it develop!

Thanks, Mako. I had to negotiate a bit with my wife for the added space :). BTW, how do you like the Hammerhead on the closed loop? I plan on having a few inches of sand and I'm a bit worried about that much flow stirring up the bottom too much AND about the noise. Since you've already been down that road, how do you like it?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12003902#post12003902 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dogstar74
I'm only worried about the number of holes in the bottom. I too want to have a type of tidal flow that causes a circular motion in the tank. Then the reverse. Are you sure you wouldn't do better with an A.G.E. tank? A PVC bottom surely wouldn't crack. But hey, it's also gonna cost you several more thousand for it probably.

Other than that I will be subscribed and watch with saliva dripping from my mouth!

Aaron.

Thanks, Aaron. I've been assured that it will be OK by Miracles Aquariums. Frankly, I like glass bottoms. I like being able to look up through the bottom of the tank. I've also never had a tank fail and this one is way over engineered. For example, you can get away with 1/2", but Derek pretty much insisted on going past 5/8" and all the way to 3/4" glass. It will also be tempered. I have confidence in their work, so I'm not too worried.

Cheers,

Los

[Los]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12004744#post12004744 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by aspinn
wow thats an impressive setup... cant wait to seewhat she will look like in action

Thanks, Aspinn. I'll post pictures as I progress.

Los

[Los]

I am making the final decisions on equipment. Any advice would be most welcome. Also, if someone happens to know of any of this equipment available used, definitely shoot me a private message. I'm always on the look out for a good deal:

- Bubble King 300 Deluxe internal (first choice) or possibly: ATB Large, Deltec AP702 or 703, Euro-Reef RC500 or 750, or comparable skimmer;
- Deltec PF601S Calcium Reactor or an existing Korallin C3002 I bought on ebay;
- 4x 400w lighting system with Lumenarcs;
- 1/2 HP chiller;
- about 300 lbs of live rock.

I also could really use advice on controllers. I travel a lot (I'm in Shanghai as I write this) and I'd love to find a computer that would allow me to monitor the tank in real time. It needs to be easy to use and reliable as well. Any input would be most welcome.

Finally, it sounds like I may have to break down and either move up to a Hammerhead or two or get a couple Tunze and/or Vortec streams.

Thanks!

Los

[FishTruck]

Awesome drawings and planning!

Regarding a controller, I am getting to know my aquacontroller from neptune. You can use it to control all of your wavemaking devices, including variable speed devices like tunzes. Probably not vortechs except in on/off mode. It can also turn on and off your darts, run your chiller / heater, maintain pH in your Calcium reactor etc... I am sure there are other controllers out there, but, this one can do just about anything. You can also use the web interface to track the data accumulated from your tank over time.

By the way... where will all the equipment go?

Are you building a canopy for this tank?

What are the plans for your ventillation system?

[ReefingBuddha]

nice tank design... and especially like your ideas for flow, could lead to some great aqua-scaping options.

About the equipment
- I have only had a deltec high end skimmer and have been very happy with the performance but bubble king also have a hell of a reputation
- I have a PF501 calcium reactor and am happy with that as well, thought it is a little small. Its my first calcium reactor but it has been fairly easy to tune and run, the media is a PITA to get clean though
- I have been very happy with the 400w in lumenarcs in a 36" deep SPS dominated tank and have some acros on the bottom 6" on the tank with no problems so far (but its still a new tank so we will see)
- Computers (I travel a lot as well)
---> I have a aquatronica on this tank and would probably not recommend it. It has great options and connect-ability but a few short comings. For example I have had to have it replace 3 times due to a variety of problems (which hasn't been to much of a pain) but I currently use it without problems and it controls almost everything that can be automated on a reef tank.
---> I have had the IKS aquastar which was more or less flawless but has become outdated in my own opinion
---> I have a Neptune Aquacontroller Pro waiting for me in the US for my next tank and have hear nothing but good things so far.
---> It might be a good idea to ask Invincible about his controller as it is the new top of the line that he has been testing (I think).

If you move up to the Hammerheads that is 2 very large pumps for closed loops but you can always dial them back until you need the extra flow. 2 Barracudas might be better as it is a in between the dart and hammerhead. I am a big fan of tunze PH myself but they are an eyesore if you can't hide them nicely and have seen the flow from the Vortec which was very impressive but hardly inconspicuous on the outside on the tank. If you can the closed loops would be the way I go in my opinion and the manufacturer can advise on the drilling panel.

Good luck man and have fun. Great build

[Los]

Thanks, Fishtruck. I'm glad you like the drawings. I made them using Google's free CAD software called Sketchup. The learning curve takes an hour or two, but once you get the hang of it - it is very powerful. You can really see how everything will fit and you can then look at it all from multiple different angles.

I'll start researching Neptune's Aquacontrollers. It's good to hear that Thirschmann is going to use one as well. That's what I love about this board. A lot of super-knowledgeable folks eager to help. Believe me, it is much appreciated.

The more I hear, the more it sounds like Barracudas would be the way to go. I think I'll start off with a Dart for the return pump, a Dart for closed loop #1, and a Barracuda for closed loop #2. If I later decide I like the 'cuda better than the Dart, I can always buy another and keep the 2nd Dart as a spare. Thirschmann, thanks for the suggestion. I may also consider a Tunze power head or two. Frankly, I *could* hide one or two on each side. It's not ideal aesthetically, but those suckers do give you a lot of bang for your buck. The other thing is I really like the battery backup options available for those. We lose power all the time where I live and I'm considering getting a generator which will automatically kick in. A Tunze and battery back up would be a heck of a lot cheaper.

Thanks!

Los

[ReefingBuddha]

I picked up a automatic generator as soon as I decided to get a big tank and I love it. With the hurricanes and big storms here in florida it has kicked in a handful of times and is just really convenient for a home anyways (I don't have a fish tank there at the moment). The peace of mind of having a automatic backup generator is definitely worth it, especially if you travel all the time. Plus even if you are at home you don't have to go through the power outage scramble of getting circulation and air in your tank.

[ricks]

Los...

You asked about pumps..

I run a hammerhead on (4) inlet CL. (4) 100 iwaki's on (3) sea swirls and (1) return center back for keeping detritus from building up under rocks. And had to add (6) tunze 6200's (3) on each side for more flow to keep up with the SPS growth. I'm in the process of adding more flow options.

I run (6) 400's on HQI's, (4) 160 actinic and (4) 96 PC's for the most spectrum I can achieve. That is on a 96 x 36 x 36 500 gallon.

I also belive a back up generator is a must along with a back up chiller. I have a second 1HP set 2 degrees above the first. those pumps and lights would fry the system in a few hours. Just for peace of mind.

Happy Reefing

[ReefingBuddha]

I recommend the second chiller as well. Currently I have enough fans on my system to act as a complete backup to my chiller (instead of a second chiller) and they are also set 2 degrees lower but evaporate a lot of water and I don't really recommend it, but they are a cheap alternative to a back up chiller and can keep my tank below 81 as I found out while "testing" my system.

[rlxwcapt]

thanks Ricks, I would love to see some pictures of your setup and tank.

Nick

[makoJ]

The hammerhead is very quite and pumps ton of water if it was too much you could dial it back or go with the barracuda.

and as far as the calcium reactor Deltec has been the best one I have used thus far out of MRC,GEO, and a custom unit. I have just upgraded to the PF1001 from the PF601S

[ricks]

Here you go some shots of our 500 gallon reef

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj20/ricksprinting/DSCN2077.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj20/ricksprinting/before.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj20/ricksprinting/DSCN2073.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj20/ricksprinting/DSCN2083.jpg

[rlxwcapt]

Rick Thanx for the pics. Your tank looks great. How is the flow through your sump with the 4 iwakis? Why did you go with 4 100 iwakis? Do you have pictures of your sump? Los and I are still designing the sump. If anyone has pictures or ideas please let us know. So far we are looking at a sump 48 x 30 x 20" this will have a refugium 18 x 24, skimmer and calcium section 30 x 24. This will leave a run way of 48 x 6 for heaters,float valve and intake for the pumps.

Nick

Nick

[ricks]

The iwakis are under the house in a crawl space along with the chiller. I'm still running high flow through the sump around 4,000 - 4,500 per hour. The sump is 300 gallons with 65 gallon fuge.

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj20/ricksprinting/Picture004-1.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj20/ricksprinting/Picture014.jpg

[Los]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12006407#post12006407 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thirschmann
I picked up a automatic generator as soon as I decided to get a big tank and I love it. With the hurricanes and big storms here in florida it has kicked in a handful of times and is just really convenient for a home anyways (I don't have a fish tank there at the moment). The peace of mind of having a automatic backup generator is definitely worth it, especially if you travel all the time. Plus even if you are at home you don't have to go through the power outage scramble of getting circulation and air in your tank.

Thirschmann - What model automatic generator did you go with? I haven't researched these at all and would welcome the advice of someone who has already been through the learning curve.

TIA,

Los

[Los]

Ricks-

Oh my GOD!!!! That is one perfect tank. WOW. You and Mako certainly have this hobby licked. OK, I am now sold on more flow. When I was reading your specs I thought you were going way overboard, but then I saw your tank. Unbelievable. More flow is definitely in my future...

If you were in my shoes, would you focus on more flow via bigger closed-loop pumps or should I instead get a couple Tunze PHs?

Thanks,

Los

[Los]

Mako-

You sold me as well. I'm definitely bumping up the flow. Thanks. I'm also going to look at more horsepower from my calcium reactor and chiller.

Thanks,

Los

[ricks]

Los, thanks for the compliment..

The flow issue is a tuff one. SPS like intense indirect flow, kind of hard to explain. You need to create enough flow, yet not blow the flesh off. As they grow the flow issues increase, hence the tunze. I do not like there appearance in the tank. They work you can direct them, they can be controlled, and they are backed by Roger, one of the best guys around.

The closed loop was install with the tank. Is it the must energy efficient, probably not.. Does it work, yes for flow behind the rocks. You would not be able to place coral in front of the inlets. As you can't place coral in front of the tunze either.

You need flow behind and under your rock. Are you running sand or BB? I really don't think you could get the kind of flow I have achieved with sand.

I would go CL, sea swirls on CL or through sump and add tunze as needed for increased flow as tank matures...

Happy reefing

[djbacon]

I see why you like this site Los, seems you get a lot more feedback....either that or your painting the freaking mona lisa and everyone has a brush :-)

[djbacon]

.

[Untamed12]

If you have not already stumbled upon my build thread, I invite you to have a look. Maybe it gives you ideas. I built the tank with 2 CLs, each running a Dart and used a Dart as the return as well. I don't feel I need more flow. In fact, the flow exiting the 1" pipes into the tank is so intense that I really can't have any SPS anywhere in the path of an outflow.

I also took Paul's advice and "roll" the water with the 2 CLs. In my case, the roll is front to back instead of left to right.

Sorry it is so long...but you'll find the plumbing bits in the early pages.

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28436

I did not see it mentioned by anyone, but ditch the 2 dursos. You've got enough holes planned to do a Herbie, which is absolutely the way to move water from the tank to the sump...provide you have the holes to do it....

[Untamed12]

I'm a bit concerned about those CL intakes. I know that you are trying to split up the suction into the 4 intakes, but I think you may be better served with 1 intake with a VERY large strainer on it. I can't say for sure that dividing the 2" intake into 4 x 1" intakes is going to have the effect you're hoping for.

I suppose you can test it out. But I can tell you what I know to work.

Here is the 2" strainer that I use on my CL intakes. Because their surface area is so large, there is no dangerous suction whatsoever. (recall that my CLs use Dart pumps)

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=usplastic&category%5Fname=53&product%5Fid=2457

[rlxwcapt]

Untamed12, I have read your thread. What an awesome tank you have. Thank you for your input. I used the same strainer that you suggested on my 120. The one thing that I did not like about it was how big is was and then to sit a piece of rock on top of it covered half of the strainer. So I changed it out and split it to 2 strainers. This has been working for me for a while now.

The idea of going to 4 strainers was Pauls (from Oceans Motions) idea. The benefit of doing this is that you will pull water in from 4 different directions. This will also prevent anemones and fish from getting stock on the strainer. (I hope) It should be easier to hide the smaller strainers. We will see which is better.

[Mako]

Carlos - Still crazy after all these years. lol (a voice from the past)

Man, that looks like quite the project. Looks like you are off to a great start planning wise. I really like the concept you have come up with for simulating tidal flow. Sweet!

I would recommend the AQ3 for your controller as well. Have always enjoyed using the Neptune controllers. Not much you can't do with one them hooked up. Just picked up a pro not too long ago and it's going to work out nicely on a new somewhat large (not as big as yours though) project I got in the works.

I am going the ATB route for the skimmer on this one. The med. cone flavor will work nicely for what I am cooking. I might lean towards the large for your setup though. Would probably be centered around how many fish you plan on having and your feeding habits. Talk with Victor over in the ATB forum.

Good luck with the new project. Will be watchin the progress.

[Harleyguy]

One thing you could do for the closed loop flow issue. Run a pair of darts, or Sequence 4200's per closed loop. Together they use about the same power as a Hammerhead with more flow, and you have built-in redundancy. Just a thought.

[rlxwcapt]

Harleyguy, How loud are the Sequence 4200's vs the Dart and Hammerhead? I like that they use less energy. Our idea at this point is to run a Dart for the sump return, Dart for one of the OM and a Hammerhead for the other OM.

[Los]

Untamed - your tank is beautiful. It took me a couple of sessions to work through the thread, but WOW. Really, really nice.

Mako - I've heard really good things about ATB. Hahn recommends them as well. I'll check it out.

Harleyguy - I've settled on the pumps: 1 Dart for sump return; 1 Dart for Oceans Motions Closed Loop; and 1 Barracuda for the second Oceans Motions Closed Loop.

Following the advice of pretty much everyone and trying to accommodate some flow designs that Nick had, I purchased a couple of Tunze 6101s along with a 7095 controller. I'll put these in as needed and where needed to get the flow I'm looking for. I'm also definitely getting a Neptune Acuacontroller to run it all together.

I'll post the latest design pics which have the sump shown in a few minutes.

Thanks for all the help, everyone. As my friend Rick (DJBacon) suggested, this is a group Mona Lisa.

Cheers!

Los

[Los]

Here are some new CAD drawings in which you can see the sump and plumbing a lot better. I decided to ditch the Dursos and instead go to two under-water drains with a backup drain. A fourth bulkhead is there in case I decide to add something else down the road. Hopefully it will be clear from the pictures.

There are also two Oceans Motions. One will be powered by a Dart and one by a Barracuda (probably the gold version). I haven't yet drawn in the piping except for the drains and the pumps they go to. I'll get to the rest later.

The sump return will be via a Dart as well. There is a second Dart shown there, but that's a place holder for either an external skimmer or a second pump, to be decided later.

Everything else should, hopefully, make sense.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Los__360_top_left-med.jpg

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Los__360_right_side_of_plumbing-med.jpg

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Los__360_left_side_of_plumbing-med.jpg

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Los__360_front_of_sump-med.jpg

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Los__360_bottom_right-med.jpg

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Los__360_back_view-med.jpg

Thanks for looking at my tank!

Los

[rlxwcapt]

Los, On the last picture the return on left center that is red should be blue. The furthest return on the left that is blue should be red.

[Los]

Good catch. I'll make the changes.

Los

[Island1Day]

Ahh...I remember the good ole days drawing on CAD in the engineering classes....I'm glad to see it made its way to the trade! Keep up the posts on this project...I'm tagging along if you don't mind!

[Los]

Welcome aboard Island. I'm actually a novice at this, but Google made it so easy I couldn't resist. Check it out for free by downloading google's Sketchup. Very cool software.

Anyway, here are the updated drawings that incorporate the corrections by Nick. I've also added in the Oceans Motions (which are not to scale), but left out connecting them because I don't yet know the best way to do so:



http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Los_Reef_tank_v7_7_full_front_view-med.jpg

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Los_Reef_tank_v7_7_close_up_of_plumbing-med.jpg

Here is a close up of the internal plumbing. Remember, the red color pipes are going to be hooked up to a Barracuda and the blue color will be hooked up to a Dart:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Los_Reef_tank_v7_7_close_up_of_internal_returns-med.jpg

Here is a close up of the refugium in the sump:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Los_Reef_tank_v7_7_close_up_of_refugium-med.jpg

Here is the back of tank and the sump:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Los_Reef_tank_v7_7_back_view_of_tank_and_sump-med.jpg

Here is a close up of the back of the sump:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Los_Reef_tank_v7_7_back_of_sump-med.jpg

Here is the top view, showing the sump return (the pipe being split three ways) and the euro-brace.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Los_Reef_tank_v7_7_top_view-med.jpg

Thanks for everyone's help and recommendations.

Los

[Untamed12]

I drew my tank with sketchup in planning as well....but nothing even CLOSE to the detail you show. If you are even half as good for real as you are with sketchup, it will be a great tank!

btw...I came very close to ACTUALLY painting my plumbing blue and red (kind of like veins and arteries)...but instead I went with all blue because some are visible through the tank and I didn't want them to be distracting.

[tinnghe]

really nice CAD drawing that you have, just downloaded the software what do u use for the glass panel? how do u make it look clears?

[tinnghe]

another question, how did u get the pipe to look like pipe? which plug in and where can i get it?

[rlxwcapt]

Tinnghe, To get the glass start with a box the demension that you want. Then you will see a box with an arrow facing up. this allows you to get the box 3d. Then point on the pain and use transparent as the color. This will turn it into glass. Los will be able to explain how to create the pipes. but you start with a circle inside a circle. Then you click on the inner circle and pull it up or down depending on which direction you want the pipe. It is a great program. It allows you to test your ideas free. Good luck.

[Hooked_on_Phish]

Los, this looks like a very nice build, I love how much planning you're putting into this.

Ricks, do you have a build thread? I have a few questions and don't want to hijack Los's thread.

Thanks

[ricks]

PM me...

[tinnghe]

Thanks I got it to produce pipe the question now is how to shrink object? I tried to import a skimmer into mine design and can't figure out a way to make it smaller so I can fit them in together

[Island1Day]

omg....shouldn't have downloaded at midnight last night..stayed up to almost 3am trying out the software....omg...the bags under my eyes :)

[rlxwcapt]

That means you need a bigger tank. I don't know how to shrink things down. I have hard enough time flipping things.

[tinnghe]

well yeah if I have to get it tithe size of a football field to have it for the size of the skimmer. I beat u in time I stayed up to four am

[Los]

Tinnghe, Island - you are going to LOVE the following sites. I hate to give away my secrets, but...

http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=198770
and
http://www.suttonreef.co.uk/Sketchup.html

I think you have to register for the former site, but they are both worthwhile. Anyway, these will help you hit the ground running. There are a bunch of pre-made items, including basic PVC shapes and sizes and skimmers, etc. A quick hint. If you can't copy or adjust any of the pre-made pieces, try to find the menu option to either "unlock" or "explode". Then highlight again and try to change or copy or whatever you are trying to do.

Back to the tank design: I bought a couple of new Tunze 6101s (two of them) and one 7095 multi-controller. Got the set off of Ebay for $685 delivered for the set. I'm going to use those to supplement the 2 x Darts and 1 x Barracuda. Is that going to be enough flow or should I also get one or more 6201s?

Thanks!

Los

[tinnghe]

thanks for poiting out, i still dont know how or where u can find so much life like equipment stuff.

[Los]

The tank is being cut and drilled tomorrow (Tuesday) by Derek at Miracles. It's then being tempered on Wednesday. So, these are The Final Plans for the tank. The sump we still may tinker around a bit with, but the tank is going to be built the way it is shown.

Los
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_tank_v8_11_front_right-med.jpg

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_tank_v8_11_far_right-med.jpg

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_tank_v8_11_right_side_of_sump-med.jpg

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_tank_v8_11_left_side_of_tank-med.jpg

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_tank_v8_11_close_up_of_internal_plumbing-med.jpg

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_tank_v8_11_left_side_plumbing-med.jpg

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_tank_v8_11_back_of_tank-med.jpg

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Carlos_Reef_tank_v8_11_back_of_sump-med.jpg

Thanks for taking the time to look at my design. If you notice, the sump has changed a lot. Instead of a 48x30x20 footprint, it has been changed to 72x24x22. This build should be easier to make and will give me plenty of room for a monster skimmer. I'm leaning towards a Bubble King Internal 300 or a ATB Large.

Thanks,

Los

[Los]

Here's a list of all the bulkhead holes to be drilled. I know it sounds like a lot, but it's a big tank and I've been assured it's not a problem from a strength point of view. All the dimensions are internal diameter:

TANK
Euro-brace: 8 x 1” ID (4 on each side of Euro-brace. Bulkheads should be put in upside down)

Overflow box: 1 x 2” ID (on the last hole, closest to the wall)
2 x 1.5” ID (on the two next holes)

Bottom of tank: 2 x 2” ID (for the two drains going to the closed loop pumps)
8 x 1.5” ID (for the outputs from the two Oceans Motions)

Total number of bulkheads:

8 x 1” ID
10 x 1.5” ID
3 x 2” ID
Total: 21 bulkheads for tank


SUMP
Euro-brace: 2 x 1.5” ID
1 x 2” ID

Back panel of sump:
3 x 1.5” ID (regular drain, emergency drain, and inflow to refugium)
2 x 2” ID (1 for pump and 1 spare, which should be capped)
1 x ??? (for Kent float valve)

Inside of sump: 1 x 1” ID (drain from refugium – should be capped for now, with water exiting by overflowing the panel, but may be used in the future)

Total number of sump bulkheads:
5 x 1.5” ID
3 x 2” ID
1 x 1” ID
(no bulkhead for float valve)
Total: 9 bulkheads for sump
GRAND TOTAL:
9 x 1” ID
15 x 1.5” ID
6 x 2”
Total: 30 bulkheads
Cheers,

Los

[Los]

Here is the design for flow in the tank along with an on/off schedule for the pumps:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607flow.jpg

Timing:

Pump 1 Pump 2
hr 1 on on
hr 2 on off
hr 3 on off
hr 4 on on
hr 5 off on
hr 6 off on
hr 7 on on
hr 8 on off
hr 9 on off
hr10 on on
hr11 off on
hr12 off on

Pump #1 will be a Reeflo Barracuda (maybe the Gold version) and Pump #2 will be a Dart Gold.

Los

[djbacon]

ok, carlos....you are insane..i love you man cant wait to see this tank at our next visit

[Untamed12]

Seriously...I think you could make a living from your sketch-up skills...

Your overflow box has three drains. One is clearly an emergency, so are both the other two going to have gate valves? Assuming this is a Herbie overflow, I don't think you need the two shorterstandpipes inside the overflow box. That just increases the chance that the Herbie will gulp air (which would make unnecessary noise)

[Ed Reef]

Wow....your sketch skills is :eek2: I only wish I can do that!! I tried using it but no success and ended up using Excel for my drawings :(

[Los]

"ok, carlos....you are insane..i love you man cant wait to see this tank at our next visit"
-Thanks Rick. I look forward to that visit!

"Seriously...I think you could make a living from your sketch-up skills... Your overflow box has three drains. One is clearly an emergency, so are both the other two going to have gate valves? Assuming this is a Herbie overflow, I don't think you need the two shorterstandpipes inside the overflow box. That just increases the chance that the Herbie will gulp air (which would make unnecessary noise)"

-Thanks Untamed. Yes, I am planning on creating a Herbie overflow. Nice observation. For those unfamiliar, it is the best way (afaik) to get a quiet overflow and sump. Dursos are great for silencing the overflow, but the Herbie overflow appears to be the best way to silence the whole system. Here's a link to the thread:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=344892

You are correct that the 2" Internal Diameter (ID) pipe is the emergency overflow. That should be able to handle the entire volume on it's own. Because I have only 23 laminar inches, I'm estimating I'll just barely be able to accommodate the approx. 2,500 coming back from the Dart return pump. That's pushing it for a 2" ID pipe, but it should be OK. Normally, however, that pipe shouldn't be used at all. Instead, the two 1.5" ID pipes will be controlled by ball valves and I know I'll have to choke them back to keep them from sucking air. I may choke one down to about 800 gph and use that to feed my protein skimmer. The other will then be tasked with 1,700 gph - which is a bit more than the recommended 1,300. However, since there will be a backup and since this one will be sucking only water and no air - I think it will be just fine. If not, I'll open up the first pipe more and have it go straight to the sump as well.

"Wow....your sketch skills is I only wish I can do that!! I tried using it but no success and ended up using Excel for my drawings "

-Very kind of you, Ed. It's actually not too hard once you get the hang of it. I took a short tutorial from an aquarium article and then I just played around with it. After an hour or so, you can start creating things pretty quick. If you do want to create aquariums using Sketchup, I HIGHLY recommend checking out the links I gave before. You can plagiarize a bunch of plumbing components from that site. It makes the process much easier. I'd also be happy to send you the SKB file for my tank. You could then cut and paste any components you liked. The file is pushing 9mb, though, so it would be best if there was a URL I could upload it to. If anyone wants it, just tell me where to send it and I'd be happy to do so. I also have another SKB file with all the plumbing components pasted at pretty much every possible angle, so you just have to copy and paste them wherever you want.

BTW, there is a lot of value in creating 3D models. It allowed me to easily check whether I could fit everything behind the sump and to see if I could access everything given the different designs. It also made it really easy to communicate what I wanted with the folks actually cutting the tank.

BTW, if anyone knows of a used high-end skimmer (non-beckett) like an ATB Large or Internal Bubble King 300, please shoot me a note.

Cheers,

Los

[Los]

Lighting

Derek at Miracles is building the sump, so I'm moving on to designing the rest of the equipment. I'm particularly struggling with lighting. I want to keep SPS primarily. The choices as I see it are:

Metal Halide 250w or 400w + T5 or CF Florescence Actinics; or
LED I series from Solaris

Metal Halides:
Remember, this is for a 96x36x25. Some of the best tanks I've seen, including the current Tank of The Month (MakoJ), use 400 watt metal halides. Because the tank is 36" wide, I was thinking 4 x 400w bulbs using LumenArc IIIs would do a great job of covering the tank. On the other hand, if I can get away with 250w bulbs, I'd have a heck of a lot less juice being used AND I'd save on chilling as well. If I go with a 250w fixture, I'll save about $240/year in electricity for the 4 bulbs and another $240/year in chiller electricity = $480 per year. That's significant. This brings me to questions #1 and #2:

1. For a 25" high tank, are 250 watt MH on LumenArc IIIs going to be strong enough for all types of SPS or is will 400 watt MH be better?
2. There are some really inexpensive fixtures on ebay from China. For example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/72-1134W-Metal-Halide-Aquarium-Reef-Light-w-FREE-Ship_W0QQitemZ130208033137QQihZ003QQcategoryZ46314QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
These guys are selling a 48" and 72" fixtures. I could get 2 x 48" or a 72" plus a single MH fixture. Anyway, they are very cheap. The 72" has 3 x 250w DE MH + 4 x 96w CF +8 moonlights. The whole fixture, with bulbs, ballast, fans, etc is only $589 delivered. Are these any good?

LEDs
The next consideration is whether to go with LEDs. The new Series I Solaris fixtures supposedly are as good as 400w 15k bulbs. Now, I'm not sure about that comparison, but I do believe they are getting pretty good. There are some huge advantages here. If I go with LEDs, I can save on electricity and on chilling costs; possibly avoiding a chiller entirely. I'd also save on bulb replacement. My biggest concern is that the technology is improving by about 35% per year - which mostly manifests itself in the form of higher efficiencies and therefore stronger lights. That's HUGE. This brings me to questions 3, 4, and 5:
3. Are these LED fixtures really capable of handling all types of SPS corals? I'd love some links to some tanks, if you have them.
4. Will an LED fixture adequately cover a 36" wide tank or is that not a good fit?
5. Because of the rapid improvements, would I be better off buying a relatively cheaper MH fixture for now and then swapping that out for an LED fixture a few years from now when they are twice as good as they are now? This is where I'm leaning for now.

Thanks in advance. I numbered the questions, so folks can answer or debate them separately.

Cheers,

Los

[rlxwcapt]

Los, Check this out.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1257599

[RocketEngineer]

Los,

While I claim no experience in this, I have dreamed of a tank very much like yours. As far as what I was thinking about for lighting, I was thinking that four lumenarcs would spread the light nicely. Aiming for a happy medium, I was considering (2) 250W bulbs, one on each end, and (2) 400W bulbs in the center two LA3s. This would put the bulk of the light loving corals center stage on the tank. Next, I was going to supplement using T5 bulbs simply because the reflectors project more light into the tank then PC would.

I wouldn't trust anything off ebay. I would buy from reputable dealers/companies and do it myself. IceCap ballasts have a great reputation and the one I have has worked great.

For the price of an LED fixture for that size tank, you can get everything you need for the MH/T5 combo and probably replacement bulbs and ballasts.

Oh, and since I live about 30 minutes south, let me know if I may be of assistance on this. I would love to see it all come together.

RocketEngineer.

[Los]

A rocket scientist offering to help... Absolutely! I live in Salisbury, MD. Any time you are driving past the area, I'd welcome you to stop by and visit. I have a small 90 set up now, but the 360 should be here April 8th.
I really like your suggestion on the lighting. I'm in the middle of the LED thread Nick recommended (above) and I haven't been convinced yet to go with LED. The 250/400 sounds like a really good compromise.
BTW, when the time comes to build your dream tank, I highly recommend talking with Derek at Miracles for the tank and Nick and Dr. Mac (Pacific East Aquaculture) for design and livestock. Paul at Oceans Motions is also a huge help on designing your flow. This is a great hobby with a lot of great folks in it.
Thanks and I look forward to meeting you. It will be nice to have some local folks to swap frags and ideas with.
Los

[crazzy]

Re: LED's, check out : Lighting, Filtration & Other Equipment > Holy LED light Hood Batman. Solaris.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=894702&perpage=25&pagenumber=36

http://smgsllc.com/diy.html

[rlxwcapt]

Hello RocketEngineer, You are more then welcome to stop by my house as well. If you have not been to Pacific East let me know I will give you a tour. Do you live in P City or are you futher south in VA? Do you work at Wallops Island?

[Bax]

This plan is incredible and I too appluad your sketch-up skills, they are MAD!

Anyway, about lights. FWIW, In a 25" SPS tank, go 400s or, IME, you'll upgrade later, but use three 400s in full sized LA IIIs and use 8 to 12 x 54 w T-5 as supplements on the front and back (or in your case other front) I'd be thrilled to have to space to do a project like this!

[RocketEngineer]

Los,
I am a simple engineer, not a scientist. The reason I came up with that compromise is I planned on having the front and two short sides viewable but the second long side would be against the tank room. I would then have a channel in the middle of the tank with high flow and high light. If you eventually want to upgrade, you would just need to change bulbs and ballasts. A little clever wiring ahead of time and that would be as easy as plugging them in. BTW, Dr. Mac sold me the LR, LS, and the two clowns in my tank. The only LFS I would trust around here.

rlxwcapt,
Yeah, I live on the other side of 13 from the city itself. Thats either a mighty fine guess or you know who I am..... scary. Yeah, I'm an ME for NSROC at WFF. Love my job, can't beat building rockets and being paid to do so.

Bax,
While three LA3s may cover that distance in theory, I don't think the edges of spread would be well covered and you would see shadows between the reflectors. You are right though that you should be able to get ~8 T5 bulbs around the LA3s without too much problem. Good observation on the wattage though.

[tbone28]

Seems like this will be a nice build...tagging along

[Bax]

I use two LA minis on my 48" 120 as my LA IIIs are too big and I get plenty of coverage from them. The LA reflectors are awesome. JME

[Los]

Wow. Thanks for Bax and everyone's advice and links. RocketEngineer - I'm planning on setting up a channel in the middle as well, with a TON of flow hitting it. 250 of 400... it's a tough call. I'd hate to have to upgrade down the road, so I may go for 400s right off the bat if 250s can't hack it for the most demanding SPS. Of course, I could have mainly SPS in the middle, where the flow is going to be the most as well.

LED or MH... another tough call. Decisions decisions. Crazy- thanks for the links. I've now got another several hours of reading to do <grin>.

Here is a 2D front view of the sump which Nick designed and Derek at Miracles is making. This 72"x24"x22" beast of a sump is going to weigh 385 lbs for just the glass!
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607carlos_sump_compressed.jpg

I also just picked up an Osmolator from Tunze. Previously I've always had my R/O units plumbed directly to my sump. This time, I may have a 50-100 gallon tank fed by the R/O unit which will then, in turn, feed the sump via the Osmolator. The main advantage I see of doing it this way is that I can then have a large amount of R/O water on hand for any water changes.

Thanks again for all the help,

Los

[Los]

Thanks, Bax. Yeah, I've decided that if I go with individual MH fixtures - I'm definitely going with LumenArc. It's perfect for the 36" width. BTW, want to sell the LA IIIs?

Los

[Bax]

Los

Nope, They'll be going on my 220 :)

[Los]

Nice!

[Dudester]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12178205#post12178205 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Los
I also just picked up an Osmolator from Tunze. Previously I've always had my R/O units plumbed directly to my sump. This time, I may have a 50-100 gallon tank fed by the R/O unit which will then, in turn, feed the sump via the Osmolator. The main advantage I see of doing it this way is that I can then have a large amount of R/O water on hand for any water changes. True, you'll have plenty of water for water changes, but if the osmolator fails and dumps 100g of RO/DI into your system, that might not be appreciated by its inhabitants. I would recommend that you have a dedicated storage container for RO/DI, and a much smaller reservoir with RO/DI connected to the Osmolator. That way, if the osmolator's pump empties your topoff reservoir (like 20-30 gallons or so?), nothing in the tank will be harmed. I'll also add that osmolators are VERY reliable, and the chance of this problem occuring is quite low, but why take the risk if you don't have to? Just my .02 .

Mike

[tbone28]

I agree with Mike. Murphy's law, Murphy's law!

[Untamed12]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12186399#post12186399 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dudester
True, you'll have plenty of water for water changes, but if the osmolator fails and dumps 100g of RO/DI into your system, that might not be appreciated by its inhabitants. I would recommend that you have a dedicated storage container for RO/DI, and a much smaller reservoir with RO/DI connected to the Osmolator. That way, if the osmolator's pump empties your topoff reservoir (like 20-30 gallons or so?), nothing in the tank will be harmed. I'll also add that osmolators are VERY reliable, and the chance of this problem occuring is quite low, but why take the risk if you don't have to? Just my .02 .

Mike

Another way to gain some safety margin is to ensure that the pump is NOT able to deliver a lot of water QUICKLY. It only has to keep ahead of evaporation, right? So valve the output of the pump WAAAAYYY back so that, at full pump, the delivery of water is only dripping. If the pump were to stick on, it would take days for the water level to start to rise. Time enough that you would notice and the salinity decrease would happen very slowly, not shocking anything.

[Los]

Great point; I can't risk turning my tank into a brackish coffin. I really like Untamed's solution. BTW, I am glued to your tank thread. I know it's been linked earlier, but for those who haven't seen it over at Canreef, it is definitely a future Tank Of The Month. Here's the link:
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28436.
Back to the tank. I think I'll hook up the pump being controlled by the Osmolator to a timer of some sorts.
Tks,
Los

[Los]

Thanks in advance. This is really turning into a group designed tank and it's going to be great. I really appreciate everyone's input.
I hate to throw another line of questions out there, but I also need help picking a controller. I'm heavily leaning towards an Aquacontroller III. I'm not sure if I need the "Pro" version or not, but I definitely don't want the Jr. Any advice?
I've seen some folks on other threads (that I can't find now) which had the parameters of their tank shown in their signature line. It might have been in another website. Anyway, it would show PH, temp, whether the lights were on, etc. I thought that was very cool and I'd love to have that functionality. Any idea whether the Aquacontroller III can do that or is that some other controller? Why do I care so much? It's very important to me to have excellent remote monitoring and alarm capabilities since I travel overseas a lot. I've had a tank crash while I was in China and there was no one around checking on it. I'm not going to let that happen again. Any suggestions?
Cheers,

Los

[tbone28]

Have you checked out the Biomatrix? It looks niiiiiiice! Invincible569 has it on his build thread. He can control it from his iPhone, too!

[Untamed12]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12192293#post12192293 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Los
Great point; I can't risk turning my tank into a brackish coffin. I really like Untamed's solution. BTW, I am glued to your tank thread. I know it's been linked earlier, but for those who haven't seen it over at Canreef, it is definitely a future Tank Of The Month. Here's the link:
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28436.
Back to the tank. I think I'll hook up the pump being controlled by the Osmolator to a timer of some sorts.
Tks,
Los

That's very kind. It does need another year for the corals to grow into the tank.

[patmack]

Another good pump to use is a toms aquatics aqualifter vacuum pumps. they are rated at 3.5 gallons per hour.

[rlxwcapt]

Check this kit out
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/AH-DELU-ATO.html

[Ed Reef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12193782#post12193782 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Los
Thanks in advance. This is really turning into a group designed tank and it's going to be great. I really appreciate everyone's input.
I hate to throw another line of questions out there, but I also need help picking a controller. I'm heavily leaning towards an Aquacontroller III. I'm not sure if I need the "Pro" version or not, but I definitely don't want the Jr. Any advice?
I've seen some folks on other threads (that I can't find now) which had the parameters of their tank shown in their signature line. It might have been in another website. Anyway, it would show PH, temp, whether the lights were on, etc. I thought that was very cool and I'd love to have that functionality. Any idea whether the Aquacontroller III can do that or is that some other controller? Why do I care so much? It's very important to me to have excellent remote monitoring and alarm capabilities since I travel overseas a lot. I've had a tank crash while I was in China and there was no one around checking on it. I'm not going to let that happen again. Any suggestions?
Cheers,

Los

Los, have you check GHL Profilux?? It can control your Tunze as well so save on Tunze controllers... plus the SMS feature which is great.

Ed

[Los]

Nick, I ordered the kit you linked to and hooked it up. The mold-a-holders are really cool and the float valves work like a champ. I picked up 2 Tunze Osmolators as well (approx. $169 new on ebay). I'll be using them with the kit's float valves as backups, with one for each tank. For now my 90 is running on the DIY float valves and it's working great. Great recommendation.

Ed, I'm really torn on the controllers. I've been reading up on them and there are lots of good ones. My favorites so far are the Aquacontroller, the Biomatrix (recommended by Tbone) and the Profilux (after you suggested them... very impressive). BTW, there is a really good comparison site for aquarium controllers. I apologize for not remembering the name of the guy who put all this together, but he deserves a medal. If you are thinking of a controller, this is THE place to go:
http://www.aquariumcontrollers.com/aquarium-equipment-comparisons.php#controllerchart

On another subject, I'm getting a bit worried about having over done it on flow. After listening to everyone, I decided to bump it up a bit and I started picking up new Tunze's on ebay while also looking for stronger closed loop pumps. I've since picked up:
Tunze 6101 = 3170 gph
Tunze 6101 = 3170 gph
Tunze 6201 = 5284 gph

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607Tunze_compressed-med.JPG

Those should give me up to a max of 11,624 gph. In addition, I'm just about to pull the trigger on:
Reeflo Dart Gold for the sump return = ~ 2,800 gph (due to head)
Reeflo Dart Gold on Oceans Motions closed loop #1 = 3,800 gph
Reeflo Super Dart Gold on Oceans Motions closed loop #2 = 4,300 gph (same as a Barracuda!)
Total = 22,500 gph, which on a 360 gallon tank = 62x turnover
Granted, these wont all be "on" at the same time. They will be hooked up to multi-controllers (I have a 7095) and/or timers (probably via one of the controllers discussed above). I really like that the Gold series are (supposedly) quieter, but should I be worried that this might be too much flow?
Los

[crazzy]

Many think in terms of a "Real" turnover of 30X plus as being really required for SPS Reef Keeping, so when you factor in losses of your "Duct work" and that not all is on at the same time, you are in"comfortable" zone. IMO
Thanx for sharing!

[Untamed12]

The entire flow in my 400 is supplied by three Darts. You've got much more flow planned than I have. So far, my SPS are doing just fine.

[peter1]

Hello Los,
Great plan, grat. to it! My tank is going a handly made lemp. I was made +1 ears a go. 3x250W HQI /Reeflux 12K De bulls/ 2x80W ATI Blue+ and 2x80W Coralen Zuht Figi purple T5.
The colors I think very nice.
Here some picture abaut I made it:
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/blogger/DSC00828.jpg
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/blogger/DSC00826.jpg
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/blogger/DSC00827.jpg
And the tank's color's now:
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/Art/peti1_806l/peti1/DSC00994.jpg
Many successes four your project!

[Bax]

Los

I agree, you have a good solid flow plan that will be flexible. 62X if all things were running is a good number, with the Tunzes on a multi it'll be less, and after your corals start to grow & aquascape is in play, you'll probably find need for more :)

[Ed Reef]

This is going to be a great build - love your detail planning.... :)

Ed

[rlxwcapt]

Los, This is from Ed Reef. This shows how he built his rack for his light. Maybe Ed can give us more detail on the build. It looks great. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=12286808#post12286808

Nick

[Los]

I feel better about the flow, thank you. I'll proceed with the pumps as planned.

Wow, really great hood designs. Peter1:
1. I love the design and I really like how you have the T5s angled in towards the center. It looks like you've got them hooked up to LumenArcs, which is what I think I'm going to go with as well. Would you mind providing a diagram of your hood? The more detail the better.
2. What reflectors did you use?
3. How deep and how wide is your tank? I've got 36" of width and 25" of height, so I'm really torn between 250 with DE HQI as you've got and 400 single ended bulbs. I'm wondering what dimensions you are pushing with your 250s, since your corals look perfect?
Thanks for some very inspiring pics.

Ed, I really like your rack system as well. As Nick mentioned, we'd love to see the details, posted either on your thread or here. If I get an LED set up, which I'm hesitant to do because of the width, your rack system would be the best way of making it work. BTW, I travel to China a lot. I lived in Shanghai for 18 months or so and I still have an office there that reports to me as well as in Hong Kong. I'd love to stop by some time to see your tank, if I ever make it to your town.
Los

[Ed Reef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12294645#post12294645 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Los
I feel better about the flow, thank you. I'll proceed with the pumps as planned.

Ed, I really like your rack system as well. As Nick mentioned, we'd love to see the details, posted either on your thread or here. If I get an LED set up, which I'm hesitant to do because of the width, your rack system would be the best way of making it work. BTW, I travel to China a lot. I lived in Shanghai for 18 months or so and I still have an office there that reports to me as well as in Hong Kong. I'd love to stop by some time to see your tank, if I ever make it to your town.
Los

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii30/EdReef/RailDiagram02.png

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii30/EdReef/RailDiagram01.png

Let me know if you need more details.

I'm in Fuzhou, China which is about 1hour and 15min from HK and once the tank is up and running, you are more than welcome to visit.... :) Yours going to be a great build...

[peter1]

Hi Los,
I would have like Lumenarc reflectors, but I reside in Easten-Europa /Hungary/. If I order from anywhere anything rather complicatedly and arrives expensive! I from a Swiss friend of mine I obtained the drawing what is the reflector planned his variant. I made these. This not so tall and broad lights. I believe it in that manner that for my tank ideal. For me more than a year of his this lamp works. The size of the reflectors 15,7"x15,7" and only 8" tall.
The T5 reflectors inwards inclinable, because of this better lights the blue light onto middle. My tank size are 67"x27.5"x27.5" and the lighting is above 10" to wather.
I tried the 400 bulbs is very good, but big heat is produced. There is an aircondition in the room, but it's not cool enough. I do not know to install an Aqua coller because I haven't place. If you can solve the cooler, then would make the bether colors!
Here some pics, when the refs. was born:
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/blogger/P1010080.JPG
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/blogger/P1010082.JPG
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/blogger/P10100811.JPG
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/blogger/DSC00726.jpg
The reflectors in the framework:
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/blogger/DSC00731.jpg
Some corals colors : /I think good, but they would be bether was 400W bulls./
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/Art/peti1_806l/peti1/DSC01402.jpg
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/Art/peti1_806l/peti1/DSC01407.jpg
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/Art/peti1_806l/peti1/DSC00908.jpg (http://http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/Art/peti1_806l/peti1/DSC00908.jpg)
The tank pictures: / Sorry I haven' jet a good camera, I don't make a good shots!/
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/Art/peti1_806l/peti1/DSC01422.jpg
http://www.korallszirtes-akvarium.hu/modules/My_eGallery/gallery/Art/peti1_806l/peti1/DSC01421.jpg

[Los]

Ed, amazing design job there. Spectacular tank, Peter1. I'm really impressed with what both of you have done. One day...

I picked up a bunch of supplies from http://www.bulkreefsupply.com, including some activated carbon, phosphorus removal pellets, and a huge bucket of calcium hydroxide (for kalkwasser). I also tried out their dried rock. I bought 15 lbs of Eco Shelf Rock. WOW is all I can say. It was $2.99 per lb, but since it was dry you got a lot of rock for your money. Here's a picture of the front of the bigger rock.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1480.JPG

Here's the back:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1481.JPG

This rock is very porous and very light. I'd guess this piece was about 12 lbs or so and the other is probably 3 lbs. They will both make amazing shelfs in this project.
Los

[tbone28]

lol, "Honey, can you hold up this rock for me so I can post a pic on ReefCentral?" :D

[Ed Reef]

does it come with the 'holder' :)

[Los]

Lol. It took me *forever* to find a picture on the 'net of a cute girl holding some rock :)

Terry, did you go to Cal? Go Bears!

Los - class of '93

[tbone28]

FINALLY, I find another CAL alum!!! Too many Stanford and UCLA *folk* on this forum. lol

92-95 for me...Go Bears!!! How'd you end up in MD?

[peter1]

Los, I believe it Tunze works well. I apply this in my tank. /3 Tunze 6100- thats oldest model, and a Multicontroller 7095/. Stronger, they work well and quiet. I use it "interval 2" modes of operation. I bought it for Streems a magnetic holders. With this very plain to put up the pumps and very design it.
They have two models, 6080.500 and 6200.500.
The second model /6200.500/ is stronger than the other-/ I apply thats/
So I think, your flow plan is good.

[tbone28]

Los, here's what I run for flow in my 180g

6201 x2
6101 x2
6025
6045

No closed loop

[Los]

[i]
92-95 for me...Go Bears!!! How'd you end up in MD? [/B]

We overlapped at Cal for a bit. I was living in SF during the dot com bubble, moved to Granite Bay, CA until 2005, then Shanghai, China until mid 2007 and now Maryland since then. I've got say, I MISS CALIFORNIA.
Cheers, Los

[tbone28]

Wow, a world traveler. Very nice!

[Los]

You have no idea. In the last two months, I've been to: Russia, Germany, Turkey, Japan, Hong Kong, China, Kuwait, Dubai, and the US. I have a kid on the way (my wife in the picture is 5 months pregnant!) as well as my 360 reef, so I figured I'd get as much traveling out of the way as I can.
Los

[peter1]

Los, I live of400-500 ml from Germany. A big travel like this a little bypasses would have fitted into it! You could have looked at my tank and the lamp. Nearest come if you plan one like this, with your wife onto Hungary! :wave:

[Los]

Peter- I'd love to stop by. Thank you!

I installed new bulbs today on my 90. They are 250w DE halides. On one side I put in an AB 10k and on the other a Reeflux 12k. The 10k ABs are supposedly the same as the 13k AB bulbs, but I don't know that for sure. Anyway, both bulbs look great, but the ABs are much whiter and have a tiny bit of yellow to them. It's hardly noticeable, but it's there. With a bit of T5 actinic supplementation, they look really nice. The ABs are also significantly brighter. The Reeflux 12k's have a really nice blue to them and they look fine by themselves without supplemental T5 actinic. They are not nearly as bright though.

BTW, here's a really great comparison site for bulbs:
http://chrismorris.ca/250wcolour/
It's interactive and you can click through a bunch of different brands to see which look you like best. It also lists the watts, par, etc for each bulb.
Between the two, my wife prefers the Reeflux 12k. I'm torn between the two, but I can see why they are so popular. I also bought a half dozen other brands to test out in advance of picking out lighting for the 360.
Los

[Los]

I tested the Reeflux 10k today. To be honest, I'm not a big fan. It's a tad brighter than the Reeflux 12k, but it gives up a lot of the blue. It's actually closer to green and without the supplemental T5 blue and actinic, it is not very attractive. The Aqualine AB 10k looks a lot nicer by comparison. With supplemental actinic, the Reeflux 10k is passable, but I would not recommend it.

[Los]

The good folks at Miracles have finished the tank:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607w_Carlos_aqua.jpg

I really like the way it looks and working with Derek at Miracles Aquariums has been a pleasure. The euro-brace should be added shortly and it should be ready to ship next week.

Here's the sump:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607w_Carlos_sump.jpg

My wife decided to change where the aquarium goes. She came up with a great suggestion to put it in the wall right in front of the front door with the other side facing our kitchen. I'll post pictures after we put a hole in the wall.
Los

[rlxwcapt]

Los the tank and sump looks great. I think it will look great between the foyer and the kitchen. Have we seen pictures of your current tank?

[TandN]

looks awesome

[peter1]

:thumbsup: Great!

[Los]

Thanks, everyone. It's going to be here in another 10 days or so. I've been sticking my hands in the 90 way too much trying to keep myself occupied. I NEED something bigger.
Tanya, re: PBITAWA. Don't do it! I'm heading to NYC tomorrow for the weekend. You are lucky to live in the best city in the world. Any good reef stores near 61st and 5th Ave I should check out?
Cheers, Los

[Bax]

Los

It great you have so much positive input from your wife on the project.

Mine usually just smiles and shakes her head in disbelief.

[ConcreteReefer]

Los- We gonna be Profilux brothers or what?
Nice tank btw- I just skimmed through the first couple pages, what kind of skimmer are you gonna go with?

[tbone28]

Jeff, Los is going BK :D

[Dudester]

Terry, time to change the text over your avatar!

[tbone28]

Why, Mike? I have RB and AEFW. That's a reminder to myself :(

[Dudester]

The rhythm of those words matches that of the song Ice, Ice Baby, which was your previous avatar. I thought you had written it especially for that avatar, but I probably just hadn't noticed it before. I think it's a great reminder, and a great message to all. Now go back to ignoring me. :)

[tbone28]

lol, i gotcha now. It was just coincidence :)

[Los]

Thanks, Concrete. I'm really torn between the Profilux and the Aquacontroller III. Both are real nice.

The skimmer is a Bubble King 300 Internal, but it wont be here for another 3-4 weeks. Los

[Ed Reef]

Both controllers works almost the same, except if you are using Tunze pumps then I think IMHO you should go for the Profilux....

Great choice of skimmer...look like u're in Terry's club

[tonyespinoza]

anyone know if the profilux can schedule Tunze "feed mode" for when your automatic feeder runs?

[Los]

I think both controllers will handle Tunzes, but at least with the AQ3, you need a breakout box. I'm not sure about the Profilux.
Today, after a water change on Sunday, I found an egg mass measuring approx. 3" x 1" spread out like a strand of spaghetti in a rough zig-zag pattern. This was in my 90. The egg mass is about 18" from the bottom and right in the corner. The main coral underneath there is a soft colt / leather (not sure which). Each egg (and I'm assuming these are eggs) are about 1mm each and they move and shift as the current washes by them. Here are the pics:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607eggs_on_glass_1_4_22_08.JPG

Here's a close up:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607eggs_6_on_glass_4_22_08.JPG

What do you think these are? I've learned over time that it's best to ID any eggs before they hatch <grin>.

Los

[Ed Reef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12377268#post12377268 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tonyespinoza
anyone know if the profilux can schedule Tunze "feed mode" for when your automatic feeder runs?

There is a 'feed mode' in Profilux where u can program which pumps to off/ on/ slow down, etc.

Hope that helps...

[Dudester]

They look like cerith snail eggs to me. There's a new cluster of them in my tank almost daily.

[Los]

Whew. Thank YOU, Dudester. This is why I love RC.

[Los]

I confirmed that the eggs were from the cerith snails. I had 3 more lay eggs today and I saw them doing it.

We started putting the hole in the wall today, since the tank should arrive next week. Here's a picture of the hallway, where the tank will be visible as if it was in a picture frame:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1575.JPG

Here's a picture of the other side of the wall, which is in the process of coming down:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1574.JPG

I need to find a forklift with fork extensions, since the tank, stand, sump, and packaging is going to be 2,000+ lbs.

There are some really high end lights available for sale: 400 Watt MH Sfiligoi Infinity XR6 Pendants with ICE Cap external ballast. Does anybody know if these are really that good? I was heading in the direction of 400 watt SE bulbs in LumenArc IIIs driven by Icecaps or other electronic ballasts and then supplemented with some T5 actinic. These pendants have the benefit of having the actinic supplementation built in and they come in a nice, tidy package. What I don't know is how well the Sfligois compare to the LAIIIs. Any advice?
Los

[Los]

The wall is down! There's no turning back now. Here's a picture of where the tank will go:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1690.JPG
Those are my babies, btw: Calvin and Hayleigh.

It's a bit late, but in response to Nick's question about pics of the 90, which will become my quarantine tank, here goes:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1673-1.JPG

I've seen a really remarkable difference in the tank since I started using a calcium reactor and periodically dosing kalk. My corals have reacted very well to this. I've only tested my parameters once since I've had the tank (yeah, I know...) so I can't really say how short I was of calcium, but I'm pretty sure that was a problem.

I also just bought 4 x Sfiligoi 400w Pendents and a PM Kalk Stirrer from Kaiden. I haven't seen them in person, but I took Nick's advice on these fixtures. From what Nick said, they should be very good at covering the 36" of width.
Cheers,
Los

[Los]

While waiting for the tank, I decided to start building the rock frames. I've been really impressed with some of the pillar based aquascaping I've seen online. My personal favorite, if you have the time, is on www.reefvideos.com. Go to the first video, which is a tour of Carl's 150 gallon. Wow. These designs were built using frames upon which live rock, which was drilled so that a rod can slip through it, rests.

I think I'm going with this design, so I bought the parts to build what I thought would be a great frame. Unfortunately, I've run into a problem that has the potential to trash the design. See if you can pick it out before I get to the end. First the pics:

Here are the parts for the frame:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1774.JPG

When cut, the pieces should go together like this:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1785.JPG

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1775.JPG

The pillars are made out of driveway reflector rods from Home Depot. They are called "Hillman Sign Center" UPC #4589931865. They are about 4' long and 3/8" in diameter. They are made out of fiberglass, I believe.

The following fitting was NIBCO #4703 size 1/2". It is used to transition from the 1/2" CPVC to the threaded side of the John Guest fitting. There's a rubber gasket inside which I easily pulled out and discarded:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1777.JPG

Screwing into that is the 1/2" threaded end of the John Guest 3/8" fitting (Quick Connect Male Adapter 3/8" OD x 1/2MIP #PL-3027):
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1779.JPG

The pieces fit together GREAT and the fiberglass rods, after I cut the reflectors off, fit in very snug into the John Guest fittings and they don't come out unless you depress them. It couldn't work better.

This is how they fit together:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1786.JPG

It looks like this right before the rods go in:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1789.JPG

This is the finished frame:

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1790.JPG

To make 4 more, here are all the parts:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/32607CIMG1791.JPG

I didn't list them, but I also needed 3 "T"s (CPVC 1/2" #CP4711) and 4 elbows (CPVC 90 Elbow 1/2" #CP4707) per frame along with 4 feet of 1/2" CPVC (#12005) and one reflector rod with the reflector chopped off. All of this was from Home Depot.

Did you find the problem?

Everything fit perfectly and it was really easy to put together. Having the rods lock into the John Guest fittings was really nice and it was the only way I could think of getting them to fit in really securely. Only after I finished did it cross my mind, however, that there's a small amount of metal inside the John Guest fittings. These are identical, albeit a bit bigger, to the ones used commonly on 1/4" Reverse Osmosis fittings. Do you guys think that small amount of metal is enough to cause problems? I suppose I could put some silicone sealant around it, but it's pretty tight as-is. I don't know how much metal is inside, but it looks just like a really tiny amount. The color of the metal is silver and I don't know what it is made of.

In a 360 gallon reef is this something not to worry about or should I ditch the design? If I do that, I'll instead use the 1/2" CPVC for the rod portion of the rock frame and thereby avoid the John Guest fittings, the fiberglass rods, and the CPVC adapters entirely. The downside to that is I'll have to then drill much bigger holes in the rocks and the rods wont be as firm either.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Los

[spazz]

there wont be a problem withthe 4 pieces of metal that are the gripping teeth on the JG fitting. they are stailess steel and may rust a little bit wont wont botther the tank at all. people use GFO (granular ferric oxide) otherwise known as rust. it work well for removing phosphates in your tank but it is basicly still rust. so the litle bit of metal and rust you will get from that metal wont be anything to worry about.

[Bax]

That's a great catch and good question about the metal Los.

I am guessing here, but as long as it is NOT copper, I would think a small amount would not be disastrous. It is likely stainless since it is usually used as a wet fitting. I'd seal it with silicone to be safe anyway, but it is a small amount. These JG valves are used on all sorts of equipment that runs SW. And back in the day, didn't SW keepers toss nails in their tanks to replenish iron? .... Not that I would recomend that!

[Los]

Spazz and Bax, thank you very much. I'm going to move forward with the rest of the pillars.

I bought my pumps today. I ordered them from Paul at Oceans Motions. If you need to order Sequence Reeflo pumps, I recommend Paul highly. Not only did he get me a really good deal on the pumps, but he also spend half an hour talking through the pros and cons of each, how best to mount them, how to maximize the flow through them, etc. I ended up going with 3 Sequence Reeflo Dart Golds. These pumps are better made than the standard Darts and they have a bit more flow. Importantly, they are a lot more efficient and they run quieter, with less heat, and they use less juice. Here are the specs for both pumps:

Sequence Reeflo Dart: 3600 gph, 12' head, 145-160 watts.
Sequence Reeflo Dart Gold: 3800gph, 13' head, 132 watts.

As I mentioned before, two of these will power the two Oceans Motions 4 ways and one will serve as a sump return.

Cheers,
Los

[Bax]

Great choice!

[Los]

Whew! The tank arrived today and with the help of Nick and half a dozen other folks, it is now safely in its place. I've got some great pictures to post, but I first need to figure out the best way to get them uploaded since I'm butting up against the limit granted to me by Reef Central. Does anybody know if I delete old pictures from my library if they will also then be deleted from the threads in which I've posted them?

Anyway, I continue to be really impressed with the service from Miracles Aquariums. Derek was a real pleasure to work with. Even better than his service is Miracles' workmanship. This tank is PERFECT. Seriously. The silicone is trimmed in exactly straight lines, the holes are perfectly drilled, everything is just as I hoped it would be. The frame is beautiful as well. Heck, even the wooden crate it was sent in was well made. I can't wait to get some pics posted. These guys do a great job and if you are at all thinking about having a large tank custom made, I highly recommend giving Derek a call: 1-800-720-2782. His prices are good, but what you get is top notch.

The tank, sump, stand, and packaging weighed around 1,500 lbs. Getting that off the truck, up a few stairs, and into my house was no small accomplishment. Once we got it in, we were struggling with how to get the tank off of the cart and onto the stand, which was a good 18" higher. We tried lifting it and it became quickly apparent that wasn't going to work. I remembered a show I recently saw about this guy who built a replica of Stonehenge on his own. We copied his method of lifting one end and putting blocks underneath and then doing the same for the other end and on and on until we finally got it level with the stand. The tank was teetering on two thin stacks of 4x4s, but it worked. Whew. As soon as that was done, we cracked a few badly needed beers :).

In addition to the sump, stand, and tank, the 3 Reeflo Dart Golds, the 4 Sfiligoi XR6, the Schuran Jetstream II, the Deltec PF616, and the PM Kalk Stirrer all arrived today as well. It was like Christmas.

I'll post the pics as soon as I hear if I can delete my old pics. Oh, and I've been working on the requisite "mermaid shot" with my wife. She doesn't quite get the importance of it!?!? Give me a day or two.

Los

[fefo23]

That's what we won pic a lot of realy good proyect, congrats

[Bax]

Los!!!

Congrats!!! Getting your tank and all that stuff is a HUGE step!

..and we neeeeed pics!

Get a photobucket account set up it's free and easy, even I, one of the truly cyber challenged, can handle it!!!

[rlxwcapt]

Los this was from Jar-head to ED reef on video. Hope it helps

Ed, the same with saving your picture in the photobucket but click on the Video tab instead of picture. Once the video is completely upload into the photobucket, copy and past the last link.

NIck

[Los]

OK. I'm off for Spain tomorrow, so I'll see if I can't get some of these pics uploaded. As instructed, I uploaded the files to Photobucket.com. Anyway, here's where the tank was going:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1803.jpg

Let me see if that works before posting more.

Los

[Los]

Wow. That is easy. I highly recommend using Photobucket. They have a direct link on each photograph which allows you to directly put it into your post even easier than using RC. This is MUCH better and there's no limit.

Anyway, back to the pics.

This is what the back of the truck looked like when we opened it:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1809.jpg

We tried to pull out the pallet, but it was too heavy and we were worried about breaking the tank:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1830.jpg

So, we took it apart in the truck and unloaded first the sump, which was 385 lbs alone:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1834.jpg

and then the frame:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1843.jpg

With that done, it was easy to pull the tank to the back of the truck to take it off:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1846.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1852.jpg
The guy who delivered the forklift was nice enough to do all the driving for us. This was the easy part:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1855.jpg

Of course, I had to inspect the tank right away:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1857.jpg
(that's me in the foreground)

It was clear right away that the tank was in great shape:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1858.jpg

The tough part was going to be getting it in the house:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1865.jpg

[Los]

This was a tight fit:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1868.jpg

With a trolley that Nick brought, some 2x4s, and half a dozen people, we managed to get it in:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1875.jpg

Preparing the site for the stand:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1879.jpg

Now we needed to get the tank (on the right) on to the stand (on the left).
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1883.jpg

We tried lifting it and it was quickly apparent that there was NO WAY that was going to work. So... I remembered watching a Discovery Channel special about a guy who built Stonehenge alone and without equipment. We tried his method of lifting one end a bit and then holding it up with wood and then moving to the other end and back and forth and back and forth:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1887.jpg

[Los]

So far so good, but getting a bit nervous now as the tank got higher:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1888.jpg

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1890.jpg

We decided to reinforce the stacks of 4x4s and 2x4s with some cross bracing:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1896.jpg

ONE.... TWO... THREE:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1902.jpg

Almost there:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1904.jpg

Got it!
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1907.jpg

[Los]

Side view:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1908.jpg

From the hallway:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1911.jpg

Oh yeah, while this was going on, the delivery man showed up with Deltec, Sfiligoi, PM, Schuran, and Icecap.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1909.jpg

And then three Reeflo Dart Golds showed up:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1918.jpg

Needless to say, it was a very good day. :rollface: :rollface: :rollface:

Cheers,

Los

[houser]

go bears

a fun read...

[Dudester]

That tank is a beast, Los. Congratulations, and now the fun can really begin!

[Ed Reef]

Congratulations...the tank looks great !!

[Bax]

Awesome Los! Just awesome!

[cbui2]

the tank looks very well built, and now for the fun part. plumbing :D

[Los]

Yup. I'm getting ready to put in a massive order to Savko.com. They are a great source of plumbing supplies.

Go Bears, Houser!

[erics3000]

Holy moly..sweet setup so far...

[Los]

Thanks, Eric! Similar in size to yours except 6" more in width. BTW, I'm a fan of sports bikes, too (GSXR 1000).

Tank update: I just ordered $262 worth of plumbing from Savko. They are very reputable and have great prices. I would have needed probably $1k worth of stuff, but I bought several dozen unions, single unions, true unions, etc through Ebay over the last couple of weeks. If you have the time, you can save a TON of money that way. On average, I'd say I saved about 50% between Ebay and Savko.

Any advice on live rock? I was very happy with the dry rock from Bulk Reef Supplies and will be ordering more. I'm going to need a few boxes of live rock and would welcome any pointers on the best type to get.

Getting close!

Los

[erics3000]

Yeah now i wish I had went 36 wide..Oh well...I got some from Marco Rock, your pieces looked pretty sweet..

[RocketEngineer]

Since you live in Salisbury, have you checked out Dr. Mac's (http://www.pacificeastaquaculture.com/). He is located in Mardela Springs, just out route 50 towards DC, about 15 minutes from the mall. He is a direct importer and from what I have read, will import specific (large) quantities for you. Also, if you are looking for specific sizes or shapes, you can go into the store and hand pick the rocks right out of his holding tanks. I got mine from him for my 30g, and would definitely go back for more when I set up my future system.

[cudaruner]

Looking at your plans for your setup, not bad, not bad at all...Savko is one of my places I went with for pluming parts. My return and flow pumps both are Dolphin pumps. My skimmer is a Bermuda, my chiller a Current and my cal reactor is GEO. I did a lot of research into the parts I wanted for my system. All in all I'm happy with each and every one of my selections. Looking forward to seeing how your setup works out.

[Los]

Thanks, Cuda. Sounds like you've got a pretty sweet system running.

RocketEngineer - Dr. Mac's is amazing. We're really lucky to have them (Pacific East Aquaculture) right here. I was planning on getting my live rock from them and was looking for help on what type to get (i.e. Tonga, Fiji, etc). BTW, since you aren't too far away, do you happen to have a PAR meter? I'm struggling with dropping $250 on one.
Los

[RocketEngineer]

Los,

I was floored when I found out that Dr. Mac's was on the Eastern Shore. Since he has both kinds in stock, I would go look and ask. For a tank that size, mixing rock from different locations would be my plan. That way you get as much diversity as possible. Sorry, no PAR meter since I'm just starting out.

RocketEngineer

[Los]

Thanks, Rocket. Nick told me a new shipment of rocks recently arrived, so I'll have to get the tank filled ASAP!

BTW, I know this isn't the place, but I got a new toy last week. My wife and I only had 2 seaters, so with a baby on the way I had to get something with 4 seats:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1951.jpg
The blue in the window is the 90 gallon, so I *guess* this is a bit reef related :).

Anyway, my skimmer arrived today:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1972.jpg

It was packed really nice, on it's own mini-pallet, and full of packing popcorn:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1976.jpg

A group shot of my babies (my wife is 6 1/2 months pregnant), my older dog is 4, and my BK 300 Deluxe Internal is brand new:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1977.jpg

Wow! Bubble Kings are really nice:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1980.jpg

And it's HUGE. This is with my hand touching it:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1981.jpg

Unfortunately, upon closer examination, there was a small crack:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1982.jpg

Here is a close up:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG1985.jpg

I am very impressed with how beautiful and well made these skimmers are. I couldn't be happier. As far as the crack, I've put a call into ProLine to see how they want to handle it. I don't think that crack is that big of a deal, is it?

Anyway, thanks to everyone (especially Terry aka Tbone28) for pointing me in the direction of Bubble King.

Cheers,

Los

[Bax]

Awesome!

[Dudester]

Is that an M3? It's gorgeous!! Oh yeah, nice skimmer too.

[Los]

Dudester- Yup, thank you. How do you like ZEOvit? I've been reading up on it and LOVE the pictures of those beautiful Zeovit tanks.

[tbone28]

Wow, the new M3 :rollface:
Oh, nice skimmer, too :p
Chris (Proline) will take great care of you! He's been good to me thus far.

[Jflip2002]

I dont know what Im more impressed with... The $65k+ E93 M3 or the Skimmer that costs just as much ;) lol. Gorgeous car. Ive always hated verts because of their soft tops. I thought it was a GREAT choice for BMW to go with the folding hard top. I envy you.

[Dudester]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12596123#post12596123 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Los
Dudester- Yup, thank you. How do you like ZEOvit? I've been reading up on it and LOVE the pictures of those beautiful Zeovit tanks. Personally I'm sold on it, but it's clearly not for everyone. I really like the fact that I don't need a fuge or any additional phosphate-binding apparatus. There are a few daily tasks that must be adhered to, but I like this since that translates into mandatory time that I spend with my tank. I use those opportunities to carefully observe and study what's going on with not only my corals and inverts, but my fish as well. And fortunately I haven't found it to be as finicky as many others report. I've had pretty large alkalinity drifts without any coral losses, and when I go on vacation for a week at a time the system is essentially off of Zeovit without consequence. So for me it works, but there's definitely a substantial cost in the beginning and a time commitment that can't be ignored.

[tbone28]

What do ZEO guys do when you go on vacation?

[Dudester]

Well, some of the additives can be automated with dosing pumps, which I do. If I'm gone a long time I'll ask my house sitter to add a couple drops of this and that, but I try to keep it simple. I don't always ask them to stir the rocks, but there are now automated zeolith reactors and don't require manual stirring. It's quite safe to go un-zeo'd for a week at a time.

[tbone28]

I applaud you. I have trust issues with my friends just feeding my fish and topping off my freshwater reservoir :lmao:

[Dudester]

Gotta live my life bro, my tank is for my enjoyment, and I try not to become its slave.

Sorry for the hijack, Los.

[Los]

Nope. Not a hijack at all. I welcome the Zeodebate. If it wasn't for my travel schedule, I'd probably be trying it out myself.

[cudaruner]

The M3 is an awesome toy to unwind in, I'm sure you'll be happy to rush home in it with a load of critters once the new tank is up and running. :) Congrats to you and the wife with the expected increase of your Family population. Oh, aw nice skimmer too!

[AlfonsoD]

can'y wait to c everything running....

[Los]

Thanks. The room is under renovation, so the tank is covered with several layers of foam and then plywood. I can't wait to "unmask" it. In the meantime, I picked up an AquaController III Pro by Neptune. I bought it from ReefGeeks.com and it should be arriving in a week or so. I'm setting it up to monitor pH in the tank, pH in the reactor, ORP, Salinity, and Temp. I'm really looking forward to programing this sucker.

When I get the tank uncovered, I'll post some more pics.

[rlxwcapt]

Just a little update. We uncovered the tank this weekend and started working on the plumbing. Since the last post we have added a fish room to the equation. This will allow room for water changing, frag tank, second sump and a bench to work on. We will post pictures soon.

Nick

[jaugermeister]

LOS, your setup is truly amazing... I had a ton of fun checking out your new cars and tanks. I hope to get out there again soon. Hope those coral frags (mini colonies) are doing well.

[Los]

Thanks, Jauger. It was really good meeting you and the frags you brought over are amazing. I'll post some pics soon for everyone to see.

As far as the tank, it was nice to finally take the cover off. The project has definitely grown. Nick convinced me to set up a frag room downstairs on the other side of the house. There are now 5 2" PVC pipes snaking through my floors and ceiling into an old kitchen. That room is now my fish room and it will house a 30" x 40" frag tank and a 30" x 84" sump. Pics coming soon.

[erics3000]

Sounds sweet..cant wait for the pics..

[Los]

Thanks, Erics3000. You and I share interests!

We put water in the tank and, for the first time, the sump. It was only fresh water and there remain a few minor leaks we need to fix. As soon as I get the chance, I'll post a lengthy update. There's been a ton of progress.

[jaugermeister]

can't wait to see your tank filled to the brim! Carlos your setup so far from what I saw is simply amazing... Keep up the good work!

[Los]

Time for an update, but where to begin? I'll try and go in chronological order.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2072.jpg

After we had the tank and stand in place, we tested it to make sure it held water. Nick then suggested we put a 5" lip around the base of the stand in order to keep the water inside for those inevitable leaks and spills. We then coated the floor and the lip with Behr Concrete and Garage Floor Paint:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2080.jpg

After we had put 5 or so coats the floor was fully waterproofed and it looked nice to boot:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2076.jpg

We then put down a foam exercise mat from Wal-Mart and then the sump. With that in place, we covered the tank with foam while my builder demolished the room around the tank:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2084.jpg

Continued...

[Los]

I peaked in to see what it looked like mid-demolition and it wasn't pretty:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2104.jpg

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2107.jpg

At first I didn't have a good barrier between that room and the room with my 90 reef. After they started the demolition I came home to find a not-so-fine layer of dust everywhere, including in the 90, and one of my few sps was RTNing and everything was looking pretty bad. I immediately did a few water changes and added carbon. What was really surprising is that I had been battling hair algae for months. I was picking out cup-fulls every week or so. Anyway, there must have been something in that dust, because in addition to killing that one coral, all the algae died that night and has never come back. I was half tempted to save some of the dust to get analyzed. Anyway, I learned my lesson and I put a solid plastic barrier between the construction area and the rest of my house.

Here's a pic of my beautiful wife who by this point was 8 months pregnant. The room was pretty much gutted by this point.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2289.jpg

It was around this time that Nick got the idea to add in a remote fish room. I had a small kitchen downstairs that wasn't being used. We decided to run 5 x 2" pipes between the main display tank and the fish room. Here's the channel in the floor those pipes went through:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2337.jpg

And here they are:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2374.jpg

One pipe is an emergency drain, which will be connected to the lip we put in earlier under the tank. If there's a leak or a spill the water will collect under the stand and drain out through this 2" pipe. Pipe #2 is for water to go down from the sump to the fish room. Pipe #3 is a backup to pipe #2 - for that redundancy that is sooooo important when dealing with this much water. Pipe #4 is the return from the fish room, which will go directly to the display tank. Pipe #5 is a conduit through which I'm running: i) the RJ-11 (phone jack) cable for my ACIII Pro controller to control the DC8s in the fish room; ii) the mini-din 8 cable for the PX-1000 breakout box in the fish room (also part of the ACIII Pro); and iii) 2 separate RO 1/4" tubing in case I ever need to run RO water to the upstairs sump and for future flexibility to do... I don't know yet. Anyway, the fish room is about 25 feet away and down one floor. Here are the pipes coming down from the roof into the fish room:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2652.jpg

And the rest of the room:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2651.jpg

It used to be a kitchen, and before that a bathroom, so there's already a sink and plenty of plumbing in place:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2653.jpg

To be continued...

[Los]

While waiting for the tank to be uncovered, I ordered some more dry rock from Marco Rocks and Bulk Reef Supply. They were both really nice, but the Pukani from Bulk Reef Supply was the nicest. It's $2.69 or less (depending on volume) per lb, but it is extremely light and totally dry, so you really get a lot for your money. I also bought some of the dry Fiji rock:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2449.jpg

This stuff was OK, but not nearly as light and porous as the Pukani:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2451.jpg

They also have Shelf Rock. Here are a couple of pieces I glued together:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2446.jpg
(I'm not sure if you recognize the top piece, but it's the one my wife modeled way back in the thread)

They also have Spaghetti rock. I bought a sample of 10 lbs or so and I don't like it all. Most importantly, I don't think it's calcium carbonate (or whatever coral is made out of). It looks like mud mixed with silicate sand which worms have formed into tubes. It is a different color than the other rock and you can't drill it without it falling apart. Most importantly, I'm not sure what it's made of, so I'm worried it might cause problems in my tank down the road. I may be way off base on this, so definitely research more before taking this off your list of rocks to buy. My vote, hands down, is for the Bulk Reef Supply Pukani rock. It is THAT much nicer than the other stuff.

I decided to drill all my rocks with a 3/16" bit. I am then gluing that stiff airline tubing that you used to use in the pipes coming out of undergravel filters (remember those?) to the bottom of my corals and that way I can position them tightly in tons of different places. If a coral needs more room, I can pull it out of one hole and place it in another an inch or two over. Drilling all these holes now is a huge pain, but will make life much easier over the long run. At first I used a hand held drill. If you only have a few pieces to drill, that will work fine. This drill worked much better though:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2706.jpg

Here is a closeup of a piece of Pukani with a ton of holes drilled in it:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2725.jpg

Did I mention I love that Punaki rock! Another advantage is that the drill goes through it like butter. I could leave the drill running and then lift the rock into the spinning bit over and over again to get tons of holes:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2702.jpg

BTW, they only very rarely chipped off when I drilled and I didn't have one piece fall apart on me. Be sure, btw, to use masonry drill bits:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2454.jpg
(the 3/16" bits are for the pegs and the larger 3/8" was for putting rods into the rocks to hold them up)

One of the really nice things about the gnarled Pukani pieces is that they easily fit together and hold in place. Still, to prevent rock slides I wanted some of the taller structures to be firmly attached. I used two methods. The first was to drill 3/8" holes and then run either clear plastic 3/8" smooth acrylic rods from USPlastics or 3/8" threaded nylon rods from Marco Rocks. I like the rods from Marco Rocks much better, because you can then run nylon washers and nuts to hold each piece tightly together. You can get those from Marco Rocks as well. Here are the nuts and washers:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2455.jpg

To be continued....

[Los]

The second method was using the SpeedGlue from Korralen-zucht (the same guys that make Zeovit). Zeovitusa.com carries it. This is a concrete mix that is really easy to use. You add in 1 part water to 3 parts mix and it forms a putty that looks just like rock. It dries VERY quickly. You have maybe 5 minutes to work it and, supposedly, you can use it underwater in your running reef. I was very impressed with the stuff and bought a couple more bottles. You can see a picture of the bottle two pics above next to the drill bits.

Here you can see some of the Pukani being stacked using first the nylon rod to hold it together and then the SpeedGlue to lock each piece in place (and hide the nylon rod):
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2452.jpg

My saint-like wife is helping me:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2457.jpg

Here is the finished piece:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2466.jpg

Some of the pieces from BulkReefSupply were really big, even before being glued. Here's a picture of some of them next to one of my dogs:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2704.jpg

And this is what I hope it all looks like when it goes in the tank. The CPVC frame is actual sized:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2717.jpg

To be continued...

[Los]

One of the bigger headaches with setting up the fish room was figuring out how I was going to control everything. I want to have my ACIII Pro run everything, both for stability and so that I can remotely check on the tank when I'm out of the country. That means I need to have some things controlled by the main display tank (lights, Tunze streams, etc) and others in the fish room (chiller, heaters, calcium reactor, auto-top-off, etc). There are two main problems: 1) the cables that control whether power outlets are on or off can only be 10' long; and 2) the cable that connects the main controller to the PX-1000 expansion box (which I need in order to have separate pH, temp, and sensors in the fish room) can only be 15' long.

Power Control Cable = 10 feet max of telephone wire with RJ-11 jacks on both ends:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2655.jpg

Solution: 100 feet of CAT-5 cable with RJ-11 jacks on both ends

I wasn't planning on going 100' long, but I tested it out and it works flawlessly. The idea is that CAT-5 twisted cable can run far longer with less interference compared to regular telephone wire. I bought the cable at Home Depot and the crimping tool from there as well:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2657.jpg

I then stripped the wire and attached the wires to the RJ-11 (standard phone) jack. There are instructions online, but something to watch out for is that the wires need to be installed in mirrored order when the two jacks are facing each other (this is not how you wire ethernet, for example). Once I had that figured out, it was a piece of cake and I had no problem controlling the power outlets on the DC8 using the full 100 feet of cable. Whew.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2656.jpg

The second problem was extending the mini-din 8 serial cable from 5' to 45', which was way past the 15' recommended max. I researched this a bit online and decided that CAT-5 cable would work as well, but trying to solder 8 wires into those tiny jacks would be too much of a headache. I found a great place on line that makes custom cables called PacificCable.com (do a search for "EX19C" on their website for the exact SKU). You then enter in how long you want the extension cable to be (I put in 40') and in the checkout process in the notes tell them that you want the cable made out of shielded CAT-5 cable. That last step is very important. It cost me $53. I ordered it on Thursday after 5pm EST and it was at my doorstep the very next morning!!! I didn't even pay for overnight delivery, but they managed to get it to me from the other side of the country in less than a day. The cable looked beautiful too:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2665.jpg

Most importantly, the cable works like a charm. If you have an AquaController and you need to have an extension cable go longer than the recommended 10', this is the way to do it. You'd be hard pressed to save much money building it yourself and these guys really do a fantastic job.

To be continued...

[Los]

For pumps, I bought:

Main sump return: Reeflo Dart Gold = 2700 @ 6'
Closed Loop #1: Reeflo Dart Gold = 3800gph @ 0'
Closed Loop #2: Reeflo Dart Gold = 3800gph @0'
Fish room sump return: Reeflo Barracuda = 1200 gph @17'

What really confused me was when I took a second to look at the box the Dart Gold came in:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2743.jpg
That's a picture of the pump. The name is certainly right, but the flow chart is nowhere near what it should be. For example, at zero head is should be 3,800 gph at 132 watts. As you can see in the pic (converted to gph), they claim only 3140gph at 95 watts. SOMETHING IS WRONG. I called up Reeflo and they had no idea what I was talking about. They assured me that what was written on the box must be wrong, but apparently nobody had bothered to call them before me. I struggle with that. Anyway, that was earlier in the week and I'm still waiting for a call back to confirm. Weird.

To be continued...

[fefo23]

Looking foward to see the end reasult

[erics3000]

WOW great updates..Are you doing any wave makers??

[Dudester]

This is great stuff, Los. And a couple marathon posts to boot.

I really like the idea of drilling holes into the rocks for future aquascaping, and I'm anxious to see how this turns out for you. I would think the openings would become partially filled in with coralline algae and if you eventually want to move your corals, you may find that the holes are difficult to access. But I guess you could always just chip away at the coralline, which would be easier than pulling the rocks out and drilling new holes. At any rate, it's an interesting concept. I know others have done it but I haven't heard how it works out long-term.

How will you attach the airline tubing rods to the bottom of your corals?

[Acan Lord]

Amazing!!!!!!!! Rock work that is crazy good wish mine tunred out like that. Skimmer is HUGE

[Los]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13219861#post13219861 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by erics3000
WOW great updates..Are you doing any wave makers??

Thanks, Erics3000. Two of the Dart Golds are being plumbed via Oceans Motions 4 ways. Those do a great job of alternating the flow. I'll try and get some pics of the plumbing, which is still a work in progress. In addition, I have 5 Tunzes which will be hooked up via the Aquasurf module for the Aquacontroller computer. I love the Tunzes and I'm currently using a couple of them in my 90 with a 7095 multi-controller. That is one sweet piece of equipment.

Cheers

[Los]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13220036#post13220036 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dudester
This is great stuff, Los. And a couple marathon posts to boot.

I really like the idea of drilling holes into the rocks for future aquascaping, and I'm anxious to see how this turns out for you. I would think the openings would become partially filled in with coralline algae and if you eventually want to move your corals, you may find that the holes are difficult to access. But I guess you could always just chip away at the coralline, which would be easier than pulling the rocks out and drilling new holes. At any rate, it's an interesting concept. I know others have done it but I haven't heard how it works out long-term.

How will you attach the airline tubing rods to the bottom of your corals?

Thanks, Dudester. If you find any long term reports on "pegging" corals this way, please let me know. I'd love to take advantage of any lessons-learned. Thinking a bit about your concern regarding the coraline growing over the holes, I wonder if I shouldn't put a small peg in each one which I can then remove when I need to use it. I might try that on some of the holes, just to make sure they stay open.

To attach the airline tubing to the corals, I've been using a liberal amount of super-glue gel and a touch of accelerant to get it to bond immediately. It seems to hold just fine - at least so far.

[Ed Reef]

One of the TOTM have great success on coral pegging...

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/totm/index.php

[Bax]

WOW!

Great updates Los!!!

Great ideas too!

[RocketEngineer]

Los,

Great work so far. I love that you got longer cables for the AC3 Pro, that 10' limit would kill my dream system design. But if the CAT5 works just fine over such long distances, that makes my worry null and void. With the AquaSurf, would you mind posting some useful information. The info on the selling sites is seriously lacking. I'm wondering dimensions and cable lengths. The online manual also doesn't explain the split cable and its bugging me. A pic would satisfy the mad engineer in me that needs those pieces of info.

[erics3000]

You should be able to go 100-200 feet on cat5 with out a problem. If the run gets too long you can always buy a cheap linkys switch and use it as a repeater.

The exact spec for cat 5 I think was something like 250 feet

[stunreefer]

WOW Los, its coming along great now!

One thing to mention on the pegging system, is that even if you place some tubing in the non-used holes, coraline will cover that too. I would leave them open, so if you do go to use them, hopefully you can just chip away some coraline and place the peg in there, rather than trying to pry out a peg thats been coralined over (this is IME).

In terms of pegging in general though, I think it helps and I like the fact that I've utilized it, but over time most of the corals encrust over the bottom and end up encrusting onto the LR, still necessitating breaking off at least some of the base of the coral. It is, however more efficient and easier than breaking off a colony that was glued/epoxied to the LR.

Keep up the great work and keep us updated! :D


EDIT: I just went back a bit in the tread and didn't realize how much I'd missed! This thing is AWESOME!

First of all.......KILLER car man!!! Holy $hit I love it!!! And a matching high-end skimmer to boot! I love the shot of "your babies" with the BK300 :D.

Also, I saw a post (I belive it was by you) about the Profilux and "feeding mode," I know you can just hold the ESC button, and it will shut off pumps for a pre-set time, but I dont know if you can set-it to work in unison with a auto-feeder, try the GHL/Profilux forum - those guys know it all!

[StripestheEel]

This is one sexy build. Well done!

I'm building a 9'x3'x2.5' no so soonish. As I need to build the house first. So definitely loving this build. SO many holes being drilled without much hassle has given me mo faith too!

Tagging along for the ride.
Matt

[Tangwich]

This is such a great build that it's time to get this back up to the top and see if there are any updates on how everything is coming along...

[Los]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13321649#post13321649 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tangwich
This is such a great build that it's time to get this back up to the top and see if there are any updates on how everything is coming along...

Thanks, Tangwich (btw, one of the funniest names I've seen on RC :) )

It is time for an update and thank you for the complement. Honestly, there are soooo many incredible builds on this forum, I have a long way to go.

StripesTheEel, I like the idea of pegging even more than ever. StunReefer and Dudester got me thinking:
"One thing to mention on the pegging system, is that even if you place some tubing in the non-used holes, coraline will cover that too. I would leave them open, so if you do go to use them, hopefully you can just chip away some coraline and place the peg in there, rather than trying to pry out a peg thats been coralined over (this is IME).

In terms of pegging in general though, I think it helps and I like the fact that I've utilized it, but over time most of the corals encrust over the bottom and end up encrusting onto the LR, still necessitating breaking off at least some of the base of the coral. It is, however more efficient and easier than breaking off a colony that was glued/epoxied to the LR."
END QUOTE

I struggled with those concerns and came up with a solution that works GREAT. I'll have to post some pics later (edit: well, I decided to do it now, so here goes...). For now, the solution is to drill the rock as I did before, but with a modification to the pegs. I took a bunch of the stiff airline tubing pieces of approx. 1-1.5" in length...

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3055.jpg

... and I inserted them into small holes I drilled into a bunch of pieces of live rock rubble I got from Marco Rocks (they sell the rubble at a discount and the pieces are the perfect size).

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3058.jpg

I glued the tubing into the rocks with a couple drops of crazy glue to hold them in place. That left me with dozens of pieces of live rock chunks with a piece of 3/16" tubing stuck out the bottom.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3060.jpg

These pieces ranged in size from an almond to an orange, with most pieces about the size of a walnut. Here's a close up:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3061.jpg

As you can see, the edges of the tubing have been rounded a bit using the grinding flat side of my dremel disc. I also used the Dremel discs to cut the rods.

Anyway, I tried test fitting these "pegged" pieces into the holes I drilled in the live rock and they slide right in. Especially with the Pukani rock, they blend in and it's really hard to see which gnarled pieces of rock are natural and which ones are pegged in.

When I'm ready to add a new coral, I'll glue it to one of these pieces of "pegged" rock I've prepared and then slide the coral/pegged rock piece into any of the holes I previously drilled in my rockwork.

And, to prevent the holes from getting clogged with coraline (thanks for the warning, Stunreefer and Dudester) I'll cover up each of the holes with these "pegged" rocks as well. Then, when I'm ready to put in a new piece, or move an old piece, I can pull out the rock that's taking up the spot and replace it with the new one.

A big plus of this is that the coral can encrust the rock it's attached to and it will never be separated from that rock. It also makes it easier to pick up each coral piece, since I can grab onto the rock and treat it roughly while avoiding touching the polyps entirely.

If it hadn't been for the warnings on here, I wouldn't have done this. Now that I have, I'm convinced this is the best way to do it. There are multiple advantages and it really does solve the problems brought up here.

I've ordered some solid 3/16" acrylic rods from USplastics (for only $.09/foot) and I'll see how those work compared to stiff airline tubing. We'll see. In a previous order from the same folks I bought a pre-drilled with 3/16" holes sheet of PVC (Item #42558). I figured I could mount that in my soon-to-be put into action frag tank and use that to hold all my pegged corals. Unfortunately, the 3/16" holes were really tight. Almost too tight, at least for the airline tubing - which is why I'm going to try the 3/16" solid acrylic rods. I'm curious to see if those slide in easier, if they are stronger, or if they have any other advantages vs. the airline tubing I've been using. Here's a pic of a piece I cut out of the larger sheet of pvc sheet:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3046.jpg

The holes on the right side have been re-drilled by me using the same drill pictured earlier. It went really fast, but it would have been easier if the holes were a bit bigger to begin with.

REALLY big news to follow :)

Cheers,

Los

[ArizonaReefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13322304#post13322304 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Los


REALLY big news to follow :)


That's not nice, how can you just leave us hanging with that comment?

[Los]

Now the big news (and yes, I know this isn't the place, but I couldn't resist). After 20 hours of labor with no pain meds and no epidural, little Ms. Evalina (Eva for short) was born. Here's a pic of the proud daddy (me!):

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3095.jpg

and mom:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3117.jpg

and, most importantly, little Eva:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3152.jpg

We couldn't be happier!

[Los]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13322442#post13322442 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ArizonaReefer
That's not nice, how can you just leave us hanging with that comment?

Quick enough <grin>?

Cheers!

[Bax]

Great news!!!!!

Congratulations!!!

[Los]

Thanks, Bax!

[Ed Reef]

Great job Los on the pegging system...

[Ed Reef]

Congrats Los on the new family.... :) I remember the magical moments when my son was born and it was like the world stop spinning for a moment while I cherish those moments....

Enjoy your fatherhood and some fatherly advice to get you started....

"Children do not need sideline coaches, they need active participants in the game of life"

Cheers....

[erics3000]

congrats!!!!!!!!!!!She is toooooo cute..............

[purebullet417]

wow great thread planning on doing a similar size tank 72x36x30 and alot of your ideas will help me. and congratulations on the little girl

[golf nut]

Congratulations!!!

[Tangwich]

Congratulations Los, the baby is a beauty. Don't have kids of my own but did baptize my second Godson last weekend. Kids are great. As for the build, very nice work on the pegging system. Although probably quite time consuming, I will also be using that system with my next tank as it makes placing corals and moving them so much easier I'm sure. Job well done Los, can't wait to see what's next.

[jaugermeister]

Carlos!!! thats great news!!! I'll bring cigars the next time I head out to your place!!

[Dudester]

Congratulations on the little one, very cute indeed! My less common but very practical advice is to get a huge external hard drive for your computer. Between the new tank and the new baby, you're going to be firing off more pictures than you ever imagined. And you don't want to risk losing those photos. In fact, my wife and I burn all of our daughter's pictures onto archival CD's, and we keep them in a safety deposit box in the event of a house fire or other disaster.

[mikezoch]

I would suggest an online picture service like smugmug - where all mine family pictures are stored. Backed up and shareable to all that have internet access.

[savethereef]

Congrats on the new baby

[Los]

Thanks guys. ReefCentral is like a second home for me, so it means a lot to get all the congratulations here. Thank you. And Jaugermeister - I've got a cigar with your name on it waiting here for ya.

I received the 3/16" plastic rods from USplastic.com. I've got to say, I like these MUCH more than using stiff airline tubing. I bought a bunch, but it's super-cheap at only 9 cents per foot. I was paying $1.99 for each 4 foot airline tubing rod, so this is a much cheaper way to go. Twelve feet should be plenty for most tanks and that costs just a bit over a buck. You can't beat that. More importantly, it is much easier to work with. The airline tubing couldn't be cut using wire cutters, because the tubing is hollow and it would get squished a bit when you'd squeeze down on it. This would ruin the round shape and make it difficult to slide into some of the peg holes. So, with the airline tubing, I was forced to cut it with a Dremel. That took a lot of time. This acrylic rod from US Plastic is solid and you can easily cut it with wire cutters. That makes cutting up a 6' rod into 1-2" pieces a couple minute project. I went ahead and ground the edges to a rounded point, which added half an hour to the project, but that really isn't necessary.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3212.jpg

The tubing is also a bit stiffer than the airline tubing and is perfect for this application.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3216.jpg

Here's the project, part way through (after being interrupted by my daughter a couple times :):

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3217.jpg

And the obligatory close-up:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3218.jpg

If you want to do this, here's where you can get the rod:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/variant.asp?catalog_name=usplastic&category_name=21315&product_id=18413&variant_id=44652

It's item #44652 and it's $.54 per 6' rod.

BTW, I tried this rod in the pvc sheet that was pre-drilled with 3/16" holes and it didn't fit any better than the airline tubing. Yes, you can squeeze it in, but it's a very tight fit. In the holes I had expanded a bit with a 3/16" drill bit, it fit perfectly, as I expected it to.

On the off chance that it might be a better fit, I also tried a sheet of the PP pre-drilled plastic sheets (item #42562 from USPlastic.com), which has the same sized holes.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3208.jpg

This stuff is more translucent than the PVC sheet (and it's about half the price), but it is just as tight. Between the two, I can't really say one is better than the other, so I'd say go with the cheaper one. To be clear, though, this is only if you want to use it like egg crate in a frag tank. In my display tank, I plan on using the pegged corals by inserting them into the holes I've pre-drilled in my live rock.

On a different subject, Nick has done a great job helping with all the plumbing and I can't wait to post the pictures, which I'll try and get to in the next couple of days. He has done an outstanding job and it really is a piece of art.

Thanks again for the kind words about little Eva. BTW, I appreciate the advice on getting a good backup drive. I'm on it.

Cheers

[Chihuahua6]

I'm more of a lurker on the large tank forum while I build mine but I just had to say congratulations on your beautiful little girl.
I had two of mine natural as well, one in the water!

[twolfe98]

sweet setup!!

[twolfe98]

double post!>!? sorry

[Los]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13329686#post13329686 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chihuahua6
I'm more of a lurker on the large tank forum while I build mine but I just had to say congratulations on your beautiful little girl.
I had two of mine natural as well, one in the water!

I've got to ask, Chihuahua6, was your baby born in *salt* water <grin>?

[peter1]

Congrats on the new baby and your project!

[TandN]

COngrats on the new baby

[Los]

Thanks! That girl owns my heart, 100%.

I've got some really cool plans to post soon of the lighting setup and, when I get around to it, I'll post some pics of the plumbing. It's coming together!

[stunreefer]

CONGRATS Los!!!


Going back for a second, I love what you've done with the pegging system... should eliminate the issues we've seen and give me something to do with my new tank build!

Keep up the great work Los! :thumbsup:

[Los]

Thank you, Austin. I'm really happy with how the pegging system has worked out. If you haven't started yet, I highly recommend buying the plastic rods from USPlastic.com:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/variant.asp?catalog_name=USPlastic&category_name=21315&product_id=18413&variant_id=44652
It's only 9 cents per foot and it works much better than the airline tubing. Using ruble with an inch of peg attached to it to occupy the holes until you are ready to replace it with a rock and peg with a coral attached to it works really well to keep the coraline from blocking the holes. As an added benefit, it allows for some really cool aquascaping effects. It was a fair amount of upfront work, but well worth it and moving corals around now is a cinch.

I'll try and get some pictures posted soon. I've already started stocking the tank and so far everything is doing well. Surprisingly, I don't have any algae yet, but I'm sure that will change...

BTW, I took some classes at Michigan in Ann Arbor. Great school and great place. You are lucky to live there, Austin.

[Los]

It's been a while since I've posted an update. Where to begin? I guess I'll start with the plumbing. After we put the sump in, it Nick started in on the plumbing.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2565-1.jpg

Here's a close up of Nick. If you need a tank plumbed (or help with anything else), he's your guy.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2739.jpg

Next time I'm water testing a tank, I'll be sure and put plugs in BEFORE it's partially full. We had it sealed underneath, but it was still dripping.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG2737-1.jpg

Cont'd...

[Los]

We ended up not following the exact plans as set out in the CAD drawings I did earlier in the thread. For starters, I ended up putting the tank in a different wall, so I had to flip it 180 degrees, but I still wanted the sump placed in the original direction. That messed up all our plans.

The plumbing underneath is quite complex. There are three Reeflo Golds. These are very quiet; I have yet to hear any of them. Two of these feed two Oceans Motions, which have 2" in and 1.5" out. Nick suggested we paint the PVC using Krylon paint and that makes it a lot easier to understand which pipe does what:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3108.jpg

The red pipes are the emergency backup pipes. There are no valves on them to accidentally shut off and in normal use they should never have water flowing through them. However, should the regular pipes get clogged or accidentally closed, then these will take over. The dark green pipes feed water from the tank to the sump, oceans motions, and pumps and the blue pipes feed water back to the tank.

The two 1.5" drains from the overflow are each split. One pipe feeds the sump and the Bubble King 300 Internal and another feeds the sump and the refugium. The final drain from the overflow is red and goes straight to the sump without any valves.

This is the side that has the refugium in it. The plumbing is a lot less complicated on this side.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3109-1.jpg

Here is the side view:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3177.jpg

And finally the back:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3176.jpg

And here you can see the plumbing inside the tank:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3180.jpg

I ended up getting rid of the two "trident" filters which were pulling water into the closed loops and replaced them with just a single pipe and filter on each side.

Cont'd

[tbone28]

Painting the PVC was a great idea, especially with all that plumbing. I was hoping you'd paint them Blue and Gold, though. ;) Go BEARS! :)

[Los]

For the lights, I bought four Sfiligoi XR6 400 watt MH + 4x26 watt T5s + 4 LED night lights. These are REALLY, REALLY nice lights.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3503.jpg

One of them was for the frag tank and three were for the display. Fortunately, I tried one out first. If you buy these, there's something to watch out for. There is pink plastic inside that you need to pull off:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3505.jpg

No problem, right? It was a piece of cake; I pulled off the plastic and was done (or so I thought). I then mounted the light (more on that later) and enjoyed finally having the tank lit. After a few days, I noticed there was some melted plastic inside on the reflector:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3521.jpg

I did a quick search on Reef Central and google and found several other folks who bought their XR6s this Spring who had a similar problem. It turns out there is a very fine, thin layer of plastic on the diagonal pieces of the reflector that are just barely visible. This is different than the loose plastic that you should obviously pull off. They are on there tight and flush and you have to pick at them with a sharp knife to finally get underneath and pull them off. If you don't (and a lot of people didn't), then you end up with the melted plastic.

Fortunately, I only had tested out one light. After reading about what caused the melted plastic problem, I took the wrapping and loose plastic off of a second light to see if I had the plastic on there and upon very close examination I could see it. Here's a picture with the plastic still on the 4 corner pieces of the reflector:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3510.jpg

It is so thin, you can hardly see it. And, it's still quite reflective even with the plastic on there, so it's easily missed.

I called up the West Coast rep and a new reflector is $150 and the corner pieces are a bit less. Lesson learned. I don't know if those pieces were left on there by the factory just in the Spring or if this is an ongoing issue. In any case, if you buy one of these, don't make the same mistake I did.

The lights come with a really cool system for hanging them. They are suspended by two 1/32" wires that come with some mechanical gismo which lets you easily adjust the length of the wire. I plagiarized some great ideas I saw here on RC and mounted these to some Johnson pocket door wheels which then slide in their tracks. This allows me to easily slide the lights back and forth for exact placement or to get them out of the way should I need greater access to a given area.

Here is the Johnson track door system

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3360.jpg

I ordered them from:
http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6109649

The thread that I got the idea from is at:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=990537&perpage=25&pagenumber=7

So far so good. Where I screwed up was in attaching the Sfiligoi mount to the wheel assembly. Warning: DO NOT COPY THIS IDEA, IT IS FLAWED.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3363.jpg

I found plastic pipe brackets at the local hardware store. These were perfect. They gave me plenty of room to attach the light assembly with a bolt and they had holes that allowed them to be easily bolted to the wheels. Again, DO NOT DO THIS YOURSELF. I'M GOING TO DESCRIBE THE FAILURE LATER ON IN THE THREAD.

Everything was fine and I was really happy with the assembly. The lights moved back and forth easily and it looked good too.

Here is with the lights close together:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3619.jpg

And this shows how they can easily be slid over to make room for aquascaping:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3613.jpg

To be continued...

[Los]

I loved this light assembly and I was so proud of myself for figuring out how to marry the track idea with the Sfiligoi lights, until...

10 days ago I got a frantic call from my wife. One of the lights had fallen into the water and there was smoke everywhere. I hopped into my car and broke every law getting home. It turned out that one of the plastic brackets had failed and the bolt had pulled right through. The fixture was being held on one side, but a fifth of it was under water :(. Curiously, the fuse didn't blow and the light was still getting power (and thus electrifying the water) when I got home. I promptly unplugged the light, pulled down the fixture, and then we went outside while the house aired out. When I took the other lights down a few hours later, I found that all the brackets were right on the verge of failing. Here are a couple of them, one failed and the other about to:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3731.jpg

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3730.jpg

If you look on the top of the second picture, you can see the steel brackets I replaced them with. I found these at Home Depot. I have tested one of the steel brackets with one light for a week now and it works fine. This was clearly a job for steel and I had used plastic.

On the bright side, I didn't have very many colonies in this tank yet. Those that were in there receded down to nothing and I was sure they were goners. A bunch of stinky, melted, white creamy gunk had gotten into the water, probably because the side that fell into the water had the T5 ballasts built in. I don't think that's what caused the problem, though. I think the electricity is what freaked everything out. Unfortunately, I had just the day before put in a bunch of invertebrates I had gotten from Dr. Mac's Pacific East Aquaculture:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3728.jpg

This included:

300 Small Blue Legged Hermit Crabs
200 Cerith Snails
150 Nessarius Snails
9 Turbo Snails
12 Emerald Crab
14 Peppermint Shrimp
7 Fighting Conch
Total: 692 animals

All the crabs and hermits were fine, but I did lose some of the snails. I took as many as I could find and threw them along with half my corals into my 90 gallon. Curiously, there was no difference in survival between what was thrown into the 90 after the disaster and what was kept in the 360. This makes me think the problem was with the electricity and once that was stopped, the damage stopped.

Back to the lights. This is what the setup looks like with the metal brackets:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3732.jpg

And the other side:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3733.jpg

And this is the test light, which has been fine for the past week:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3764.jpg

And a close up:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3762.jpg

Cont'd

[Bax]

Great updates!

I like the wonderfully organized piping!

That was a big scare with the lights, but still a lucky result that could have ended much worse!

[Los]

I now have two lights up and running and I have one Sfiligoi waiting on a new reflector and one waiting on new T5 ballasts. I could combine them into one working unit, but figure I can get by with 2 until I get the others fixed.

When I get all the lights up I'll show some more of the aquascaping. For now, here are a couple pics of the rocks:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3524.jpg

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3530.jpg

And a side shot:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3685.jpg

And the back:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3522.jpg

BTW, the Bubble King pulls out all sorts of gunk. This is for Tbone's viewing pleasure :):

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3531.jpg

I'm really happy with that skimmer.

[Los]

There is sand in the tank now and I have moved a couple of the pillars a bit, but I want to get the lights right before I post more pics.

I had an idea which I think is going to turn out really cool. I got a really good deal on a high end Canon Pan, Tilt, Zoom camera. It's a VB-C50ir. I have it mounted in a wall between the tank and my front door:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/carlosandgea/CIMG3729.jpg

That's it above my shoulder. The box it is in isn't finished yet, but it will be soon. The camera has a full view of the back of the tank. The camera is web enabled with it's own mini-server built in. I can zoom in and look at any individual coral or part of the tank even when I'm traveling. What I especially like about the camera is the included software. I can set up 16 presets. For example, I can have one zoomed in with 24x optical zoom on an individual coral so that I can see the detail in the polyps. I can then have it at predetermined times take a picture of each of the presets and to save that to a computer on my network. I've had that running for a few months now and I plan on taking all the pictures from a given preset and doing time lapse photography with them. This will allow me to create a video of the corals growing.

I liked the camera enough that I bought another one on Ebay when another deal popped up. That will either be mounted on the other side of the tank or in the fish room.

Speaking of the fish room, it's almost finished. As soon as it is, I'll post some pics.

Cheers,

Los

[Los]

"Painting the PVC was a great idea, especially with all that plumbing. I was hoping you'd paint them Blue and Gold, though. Go BEARS! "

Nice, Terry. Next time!

[Los]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13753253#post13753253 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bax
That was a big scare with the lights, but still a lucky result that could have ended much worse!

Thanks, Bax. You are 100% right that it could have been worse. I didn't feel so bad, considering that fact. I was going to transfer all my sps that weekend and it could have just as easily happened after that. Or, worse, it could have happened while I had my hands in the water and saltwater dripping down my arms. As far as accidents go, I got off easily on this one.

Great updates!

I like the wonderfully organized piping!

Thank you!

[erics3000]

Real sweet lights...A little bit of trouble but they look great. Your tank is really coming together nice.

[Los]

Thanks, Eric. I've been enjoying your build thread as well.

[Untamed12]

I thought I was king of painted PVC.... You got me beat there! I like it.

[savethereef]

Turned out really nice

[Dudester]

Beautiful job Los! Your plumbing is incredibly nice, and I really like how that one rock appears to be hanging off the main pillar, creating a great overhang. I'm glad you eliminated the tridents from the drains - totally unnecessary IMO with those screens you selected, and they sure take up a lot of real estate. The compliments could go on and on, and my only constructive comment would be that you may have some difficulty when servicing your 4-ways. I know that it's advantageous to keep them as close to the tank as possible (to reduce restriction of flow), but on the pics they look very close to the bottom of your tank and they may be difficult to disassemble. But again, that's just how it looks on the pics and I'm sure you've already given that (like everything) some thought.

Great stuff!

[rlxwcapt]

Dudester, Great point. I will say that it is not easy to take them apart. but we do have access to both of them. With the unions it is easier to do. We had to take them apart several times when we where putting the plumbing together.

[erics3000]

Yeah that is a good point I need to take mine apart again to clean too..

[Los]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13753854#post13753854 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Untamed12
I thought I was king of painted PVC.... You got me beat there! I like it.

Thanks, Untamed. I took a lot of inspiration from your set up.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13754984#post13754984 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by savethereef
Turned out really nice

Thank you!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13763746#post13763746 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dudester
Beautiful job Los! Your plumbing is incredibly nice, and I really like how that one rock appears to be hanging off the main pillar, creating a great overhang. I'm glad you eliminated the tridents from the drains - totally unnecessary IMO with those screens you selected, and they sure take up a lot of real estate. The compliments could go on and on, and my only constructive comment would be that you may have some difficulty when servicing your 4-ways. I know that it's advantageous to keep them as close to the tank as possible (to reduce restriction of flow), but on the pics they look very close to the bottom of your tank and they may be difficult to disassemble. But again, that's just how it looks on the pics and I'm sure you've already given that (like everything) some thought.

Great stuff!

Thank you, Dudester. As Nick mentioned, they are connected with true unions, so we can pull them out. That said, I didn't realize they took a lot of maintenance. Reading up on it, it does look like cleaning out the occasional piece of sand is necessary. Thanks for the heads up.

[Untamed12]

When I first started, I had to dismantle and un-stick the OM-4ways weekly. That lasted for about 2 months. It has now been maybe 15 months since I've had to deal with one.

My sand bed has settled, and the drums have worn in so they seem less inclined to get stuck. At this point, they seem maintenance free.

[Dudester]

My experience with the 4-way is identical to Untamed. You can expect to have to clean it out in the beginning, but it will improve. A potential way to avoid getting sand in the drum is to dial the pump WAY DOWN in the beginning, and don't even plug the 4-way in so that it doesn't rotate. As the sand bed acquires its bacterial film, you can gradually dial up the flow through the 4-ways until they are where you want them. This will reduce the sand storm and will help to prevent sand from jamming the drum. At that point, go ahead and plug in the 4-way so the drum rotates, and again reduce the flow through the CL. Gradually dial up the flow until you're at your desired level, all the while preventing a sand storm. It will take some time to get there, but trust me, it's much better than frequent jams!

[Los]

Thanks for the suggestion. That's one of the things I love about this website. It's a great way to learn from others. I've had a few "learning experiences" myself that someday I'll be able to warn people about :)

[xXReefXx]

very very nice!!

[Graf-X]

Hey Los,

Any updates?

I've learned so much from your build thread - love your idea to pre-plug the LR the way you did... Dang i wish i would've done that. Your attention to detail and meticulous planning here really is inspiring. - Ryan

[Los]

Thanks, Ryan. I hope your Korallin is up and running well. I LOVE the plugging system. I've been moving frags and colonies around at will and it works great.

I know I'm past due on an update and I'm *this* close to having my fish room integrated into the main display. I'm in Hong Kong this week and China next week, but when I get back I'll be sure to post a more thorough update. For now, my corals are thriving and I'm in the process of setting up an AquaController III Pro. It's already monitoring my tank, but I'm really looking forward to it controlling my systems. Pics to follow in a couple weeks when I'm back.
Cheers!

[Zach.Attack6]

Just read the whole thread tank is awsome and can't wait to see fish room, keep the pics coming, And that camera set up is awsome:thumbsup:

[JCurry]

Los,
Just found your thread awesome build, and congrats on the new little one, I know she's been here for a little while. How's the fishroom coming along? I'd be interested in seeing how you set yours up, I'm currently working on mine.