This is getting annoying now

[Reef Ruler]

Hey

So far, I have strucken out on two RO/DI units. Both were Cora Life II pure flo or something like that. -Piece-of-junk-. Ordered from Drs Foster and Smith, 1st one had a crack on a connection, they sent another. Second one had a different crack somewhere else, so i scavenged a piece from the first and moved it to the second. Neither of their faucet adapters worked, cant get it to attach to any faucet on my house, even the ones outside when i take off the adapter, without it spraying everywhere. You can see why im not happy.

Anybody know of a relativley cheap RO/DI unit that works well, its reliable, and a good place to buy one from? It would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Brian

[atvdave]

First make sure you can get a refund, then look here.

Here are some good places to start. You can look at budget systems to mega systems.

http://www.thefilterguys.biz/

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/

http://www.spectrapure.com/

http://www.purelyh2o.com/

http://www.airwaterice.com/

http://www.melevsreef.com/

[FroggyFeet]

I bought a air, water and ice from a local buddy, and can say that I am very impressed with it's performance!

[Reef Ruler]

That water and ice Typhoon one is looking pretty good. And its a great price also! I think that might be the one I'll get. Thanks guys.

Oh, I can get a refund apparently ;) And froggy-do you have a thread on your 6,000 gallon i could see? I bet it looks amazing

Thanks
Brian

[Gdubb]

filterguys. enough said

[viowyn]

What kind of ro/di units do you guys use? I had a unit but i got rid of it because it didn't take my nitrates or silicates down any from the tap water. Any recommendations? I am beginning to think that my tap water is just junk and no ro/di filter will fix it.

[USC-fan]

I use the Typhoon III and its a great unit!

[Jefe12234]

My Typhoon III has been working great for over a year. I've also installed one of the FilterGuys units that seemed equally well made.

[sabbath]

I just ordered a bulk di from the filterguys. Jim was VERY helpful about the filters...

I will use them again for sure.

[kingsland]

Typhoon III, very happy with it and they have great service.

[reefer96]

typhoon III air water ice

[viowyn]

So the typhoon III rids the tap water of all nitrates, silicates, and phosphates? That's what my other one promised but it sucked.

[Reef Ruler]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12084775#post12084775 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by viowyn
So the typhoon III rids the tap water of all nitrates, silicates, and phosphates? That's what my other one promised but it sucked.

I believe so...but sometimes nitrates get put back in the water when the water goes into the tank from various things...

[DarG]

If you have particularly high phosphates and silicates Spectrapure has special DI carts. with resings that are supposed to be best foir targeting the phosphates and silicates. Called Silica Buster I think.
They cost more, like 3X more because I dont think they sell the resins alone for refilling the carts. but they are supposed to be tops for phos. and silicates.

[AZDesertRat]

Take a look at www.buckeyefieldsupply.com for their 75 GPD Premium system. Compare pricing and quality with all the others and none comes close. $161 with a handheld TDS meter, RO bypass valve, Matrix carbon block, Dow membrane, pressure gauge, vertical refillable DI etc.
Myself I use Spectrapure and their quality cannot be beat. They hand test and guarantee their Select RO membranes like no one else in the business. They also custom blend all their DI resins to take care of the most demanding situations. No other resin will last as long or work as well, again guaranteed.

[USC-fan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12084775#post12084775 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by viowyn
So the typhoon III rids the tap water of all nitrates, silicates, and phosphates? That's what my other one promised but it sucked. Like darG said you can get add on that remove silicates....Have you thought about getting an add on before buying a whole new RODI?

[humbugy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12083910#post12083910 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kingsland
Typhoon III, very happy with it and they have great service.
:thumbsup:

[gabe3d]

Just making sure here, so that you don't waste some money. Are you trying to connect the water input from the cold water line underneath the sink and not on the actual faucet right?

[DeathWish302]

AZDesertRat lead me to Buckeye Field Supply. I have the chloramine 5 stage and couldn't be more pleased. The granulated carbon will probably transition to a Matrix carbon block during the next filter change, but besides this build quality was excellent. I have purchased an additional valve for the RO-Only tap and additional poly tubing to heat the source water. Besides those two annoying items, I would not think twice about spending the ~200 again.

[Reef Ruler]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12091204#post12091204 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gabe3d
Just making sure here, so that you don't waste some money. Are you trying to connect the water input from the cold water line underneath the sink and not on the actual faucet right?

Hey

I am trying to connect it to the faucet itself. Is this one harder to do? The Typhoon/typhoon III...the faucet adapter connects to the faucet and not the water line underneath, correct?

Is there a higher chance of leakage/sprayage if i connect it to the faucet as to the cold water tap?

Thanks
Brian

[gabe3d]

It's probably easier to connect to the faucet as oppose to the waterline for obvious reason of accessibility. Only reason why I was suggesting to do it from the water line is because you don't want to accidentally run hot water through the RO membrane. I was making the assumption that you were going to have this permanently setup as oppose to connecting it when you need it, but if that's not the case then just ignore me. :)

[Reef Ruler]

Nope...not the case ;) Yeah...hot water on the left, cold on right :) Got it.

[jwb0126]

Air, Water & Ice Typhoon III is def. a winner!!! I have one with an inline TDS meter and even after running it pretty often for about the last six months, the TDS still reads at zero.

They're also a great company to deal with and it's the only one I've ever seen with a lifetime warranty. Myself and three of my local buddies all have the same system. One of the o-ring seals started failing in one of them about three months ago, after he had had his Typhoon for over a year. With one phone call Air Water Ice sent him a new one no questions asked and he had it a day later.

[USC-fan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12091411#post12091411 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reef Ruler
Hey

I am trying to connect it to the faucet itself. Is this one harder to do? The Typhoon/typhoon III...the faucet adapter connects to the faucet and not the water line underneath, correct?

Is there a higher chance of leakage/sprayage if i connect it to the faucet as to the cold water tap?

Thanks
Brian I use the faucet adapter for a year without problems. It is really easy to hook....

[FinsToTheLeft]

Hey... I must have received your busted RO/DI unit cause the same thing just happened to me from the doctors.

I exchanged it but now you got me worried that the new one will but busted up.

[Reef Ruler]

Lol...sorry about that :) well you didnt get mine, I still have both. I have to send them back soon, otherwise no refund. You get the reef flo II model or something...Im thinking it might be the manufacturer and not the docs...

Thanks for your input, USC-fan.

I was reading up on the Typhoons...one thing not clear to me is what the big differences are between the typhoon and the typhoon III. Could somebody explain this to me?

Thanks
Brian

[Reef Ruler]

You get the reef flo II model or something...Im thinking it might be the manufacturer and not the docs...

It should be

You get the reef flo II model or something[b]...?]/b]Im thinking it might be the manufacturer and not the docs...

[Reef Ruler]

Aww Messed up. Sorry about that...cant edit, or just havnt figured it out yet!

[FinsToTheLeft]

Just so you know... call the docs up and tell them its busted... they send you sticker for the box so you don't have to pay for shipping... It doesn't say that on the packing receipt. ;)

[Reef Ruler]

Did that :) sending one for the original I payed for, and one for the one they sent as a replacement. They definetly are a great company, which is why I doubt it was their failt its broken.

[Reef Ruler]

Anybody know the major differences between the Typhoon I and the Typhoon III?

Thanks
Brian

[AZDesertRat]

Read the differences on their site www.airwaterice.com . A couple ofmajor differences are the III comes with a TDS meter and DI bypass valve.
You might look at the 75 GPD Premium from www.buckeyefieldsupply.com , for $29 less you get more including better prefilter and carbon cartridges, a pressure gauge and an adjustable flow restrictor.

[USC-fan]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12097659#post12097659 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reef Ruler
Anybody know the major differences between the Typhoon I and the Typhoon III?

Thanks
Brian It s has a couple extra options. It is worth the extra money to get the typhoon III but if you can;t afford the extra stuff you can always buy it later on.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12097745#post12097745 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AZDesertRat
Read the differences on their site www.airwaterice.com . A couple ofmajor differences are the III comes with a TDS meter and DI bypass valve.
You might look at the 75 GPD Premium from www.buckeyefieldsupply.com , for $29 less you get more including better prefilter and carbon cartridges, a pressure gauge and an adjustable flow restrictor. Isn't those only 4 stage ro/di? The typhoon I & III are 5 stage.....

[AZDesertRat]

As I have stated dozens of times, don't get hung up on "number of stages". This is a ploy started by the e-bay vendors to make it sound like you are getting something special with 5 or 6 "stages".
For RO you need only 3 stages and for RO/DI you need 4 stages, thats it.
The important thing is what is contained in those stages not how many there are
Look at the Premium system, it has better filters that the Typhoon and Typhoon III.
You want the smallest possible micron range you can get without starving the membrane for pressure. The Premium has a 1 micron prefilter which is much much better than a 10 micron prefilter and a 0.6 micron 20,000 gallon carbon block, again a much better filter.
The purpose of the prefilter and carbon block are to protect the RO membrane so the better the filters the longer the membrane will last and the better it will perform. If solids never reach the membrane it stays cleaner. Colloidal material is one of the worst enemies of a membrane. Which do you think will pass more materials on to the next filter in line, a 10 micron or a 1 micron? Same with the carbon block which also acts as a secondary sediment filter, a 1 micron or a 0.6 micron?
The carbon also acts to remove chlorine, a 5 micron carbon block is good for anywhere from 1,000 to maybe 5,000 gallons, a 1 micron may do 5,000 to possibly 10,000 gallons of chlorine. The 0.6 micron does 20,000 gallons by itself.

[Reef Ruler]

Thanks for the input.

A.J.--For the Typhoon series you can specify what micron size you want for each cartridge. When you have more stages, than that does = more filtration, but as you said, depends greatly on the micron size. Say you had a 1 micron carbon, then a .6 micron carbon block. That combined does a lot better job than just a plain .6 micron filter

Thanks
Brian

[AZDesertRat]

No, there is no reason for two carbons. Look at the best RO/DI units on the planet, the MaxCap and MaxCap UHE at www.spectrapure.com , both have a single carbon. More stages equals more pressure drop and just plain are not needed.

[USC-fan]

AZDesertRat is the man when it comes rodi....