sps'rs using t5 with halide

[upsetter]

Just looking for input from those who run t5s with their halides. Thinking of dropping my vhos and going with 4 t5s along with my 2-250 watt se Reeflux 10k. I have a 20" deep tank and all sps.
1. Should I go the overdriven Icecap route of 54watts ending up overdriven to around 80 or just go with a regular t5 ballast at 54watts?
2. What bulb combo seems to work best (I realize this is subjective somewhat to personal opinion)? Looking for actual coloring of the sps, greens and blues-- I think the 10k will help with the pinks. I was thinking 3 ati blueplus, and either 1 actinic or maybe the KZ Figi purple.
3. I know the t5s don't flouresce corals as well as vho actinic, but how much less is it-- some say u can still get an extra pop from the t5 actinic, just not the flourescent effect-- I guess if I went with the Icecap ballast I could still run 1 or 2 vho actinics if I wanted.... don't really know what I'm asking or saying on this #3 question-- I'm just tired of searching for pics & posts to make a decision so thought I'd just ask what sort of experience other sps'rs are having.
Thanks in advance:)

[broke1]

I have 4 250w14ks and 8 overdriven t5s over my 240. I had 10ks, but my color wasn't that great. Right now I have the 2 250w 14ks over each side with 2 Blue Pluses, one super actinic and one 6500. It's very white with a tint of blue and the coloring seems to be improving, but the growth has slowed since removing the 10ks.

[Oldude]

My lighting consists of
3X 250w HQI 10K bulbs,
2X 150w HQI 20K bulbs,
4X 39W Fiji purple bulbs.
This combination gives a reasonable color "pop" IMHO.
I get good growth as well for the most part.

[xtm]

Instead of describing it, how about I post some actual pics? First pic is (2)54w 420nm T5HO + (2)250w XM 20K's on IceCap
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/xtm4/75g/DSC05167.jpg

Second pic is the same T5 setup as above - only with 14K Iwasaki MH bulbs...
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/xtm4/75g/DSC05065.jpg

XM has more florescence but less PAR... Saki is flat white, more PAR but less florescence. Go for the 420nm if you want "pop" and 460nm if you want a brighter blue. It's all preference.

[reef rico]

xtm nice sps but your first pic looks to blue.

[upsetter]

It's definitely all preference, because I like the first pic better xtm. Thanks for the pics btw, that does help. And Oldude, I've seen lots of your pics before(very nice btw), pretty cool fixture u have with the ability to have 5 halides. Do u think the KZs are actually coloring the corals at all or is it more of a visual thing? Also, if my t5s are 6" above water surface do u think it would be better to overdrive them or not worry about that? Any pics by chance Broke1? Thanks for the input & please keep it coming.

[broke1]

I have mostly frags and smaller colonies, so pictures of the tank really aren't that impressive.

With an 8 ft long tank you need to take the pictures from so far back and my corals are so small, that it really just looks like a pile of rocks. The tank is do for an algae scraping, so I will try to get some pictures after it no longer looks like a trainwreck.

[upsetter]

Anyone else have any suggestions or pics? Also, still wondering if I should go the icecap route & overdrive to 80 watts or just run a standard 54watt t5 ballast with my tank at 20"-- all sps (either way I'll put 2 extra fans on them).

[upsetter]

Forgot to mention, bulbs would be about 6" above the water:)