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FishAreFriends2
05/03/2008, 10:45 AM
Well I went to look for a purple lta at the lfs and they didn't have one but they did have a nice looking white with purple tips sebae anemone, so I picked it up. I was wondering are these hard to keep? Or are they just like rbtas, which are pretty easy to care for? I would also like to know if they require anything different from a rbta? And is there anything to look out for. And whats clown fish swims in a sebae anemone?

Just to make sure mine is a sebae anemone
It has short tenticales with purple tips and its bottom is also white.
So that is a sebae anemone right?

thetim6
05/03/2008, 12:27 PM
It sounds like a bleached sebae anemone, they aren't supposed to be white but more of a tan color and sometimes even dark purple.

I read an article once by Bob Fenner where he said a healthy, brown sebae is as easy to care for as a bubble tip and can even flourish under PC lighting.

I think the key words there are a healthy brown color. If the anemone is snow white, it's survival is solely dependent on the care you give it. You need to feed him at least a few times a week because without it's zooxanthellae, it cannot photosynthesize.

FishAreFriends2
05/03/2008, 05:32 PM
got any pics of how a normal sebae looks like since all I see are white ones when I searched.

12gallonbaby
05/03/2008, 05:45 PM
I bought a white sabae too and thought it was just a cool color and it died 3 days later. I tried to feed it but all the food I gave it, he just threw up. Try not to stress it out to much.

FishAreFriends2
05/03/2008, 05:47 PM
When I put the sebea in my tank it quickly attached to the rock, its mouth is shut. It has not moved from its location. And today it looks like its fully open. It is under a 250w mh. So is that a good sign that its mounted itself to the rock?

garygb
05/03/2008, 06:32 PM
Yeah, that's a good sign that it has anchored itself. As was mentioned earlier, white means the anemone is bleached. In time it will likely be tan to brown, that is a good sign when it regains the color. The darker color means that the zooxanthellae (symbiotic algae that live inside the anemones tissue) has returned. Most of the anemones nutrition in the wild is provided by the zooxanthellae. Since it has lost it's algae for now, you should feed small pieces of fresh food such as shrimp, squid, scallop, silverside. Cut the pieces to approximately 1/4 inch cubes and feed the anemone a few times per week. The additional food will provide nutrition for the anemone and will expedite the return of the zooxanthellae.

hops523
05/03/2008, 07:42 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12462673#post12462673 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thetim6
It sounds like a bleached sebae anemone, they aren't supposed to be white but more of a tan color and sometimes even dark purple.

Sorry, but that is not true, there are plenty of white sebae anemones, if the anemone was translucent it would be bleached, but not if it is a white sebae.

kimsie
05/03/2008, 08:17 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12464765#post12464765 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hops523
Sorry, but that is not true, there are plenty of white sebae anemones, if the anemone was translucent it would be bleached, but not if it is a white sebae.



Ok - Now I'm sorry because that isn't true! Do any research and reading and you'll see that no anemone is naturally white. It's only due to bleaching and is a sign of poor health!

kimsie
05/03/2008, 08:25 PM
Here are some great threads of Sebae (or H. Crispa) Anemone care and information on bleaching...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1325166&highlight=sebae

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1360313&highlight=sebae

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1325286&highlight=sebae

hops523
05/03/2008, 08:34 PM
So your saying these white sebae anemones are bleached?
http://www.saltwaterfish.com/site_11_03/product_info.php?products_id=328&parent_category=4&category_search=63&root_parent_id=4

http://www.bluezooaquatics.com/productDetail.asp?did=2&pid=1073&cid=74

wicked_NaCl_h2o
05/03/2008, 09:04 PM
I would never use saltwaterfish.com for a reference when it comes to the color of an anemone..most of their anemone pictures are bleached. Then they also have a picture of what they call a yellow sebae ( it is dyed yellow).

hops523
05/03/2008, 09:18 PM
i know they arent the most reliable source.but what about the second link?they look pretty similar to me.

blownz281
05/03/2008, 11:23 PM
BTA is easier. but anemones in general aren't easy. they need great lighting,flow and water quality. sebae's don't do well during shipping,most are bleached or dyed. they need perfect water quality.

Toddrtrex
05/04/2008, 12:23 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12465296#post12465296 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hops523
i know they arent the most reliable source.but what about the second link?they look pretty similar to me.

They do both look similar and are both bleached. Though I have seen worse ones.

The really bad thing is that saltwater.com lists it as a "White Sebae Anemone", which is deceitful in my opinion.

thetim6
05/04/2008, 09:56 AM
I've seen websites selling white sebaes for more than tan ones, like the white ones were more desirable...

I don't think people should buy anemones without thoroughly researching them first. If one was to thoroughly research they would know there is no such thing as a healthy, snow white sebae.

happyface888
05/05/2008, 02:49 PM
Hmm all I see at lfs are white sebeas. Why do they come in bleached? I am sure when they get them they aren't white right? So did they do something to them to make em white?

garygb
05/05/2008, 05:11 PM
In answer to your question regarding bleaching Happyface, Heteractis crispa very easily expells its zooxanthellae. Conditions during collection and transport can be quite bad and take days. Some species of anemone seem to tolerate this much better without bleaching, sebaes are seemingly the worst.

FishAreFriends2
05/06/2008, 11:07 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12464371#post12464371 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by garygb
Yeah, that's a good sign that it has anchored itself. As was mentioned earlier, white means the anemone is bleached. In time it will likely be tan to brown, that is a good sign when it regains the color. The darker color means that the zooxanthellae (symbiotic algae that live inside the anemones tissue) has returned. Most of the anemones nutrition in the wild is provided by the zooxanthellae. Since it has lost it's algae for now, you should feed small pieces of fresh food such as shrimp, squid, scallop, silverside. Cut the pieces to approximately 1/4 inch cubes and feed the anemone a few times per week. The additional food will provide nutrition for the anemone and will expedite the return of the zooxanthellae.

The sebae accepts shrimp and it has not moved anywhere. I hope it can recover its zoanthellae soon. Any other suggestions I should do?

05TurboS2K
05/06/2008, 04:50 PM
I only recently got my first anemoee, it came to me white, and quickly turned a dark brown since then. It looks quite healthy now.

probably the same situation.

madreef_7K
05/06/2008, 04:55 PM
I bought one about 6 months ago. It was white with nice purple tips. Since then the anemone has grown 3 times its size and is gary in color. It has come to a point where I had to move this guy to my refugium because it nearly overtook my tank (90g). But I found it to be easy to care if you don't disturb it too much and feed them salad shrimps :)

VictorD
05/07/2008, 09:32 PM
Here is a picture of my sebae.
I would call it more pink but could see someone calling it brown.
I agree, most of the ones I see in LFS are chalky white. I searched a LONG time online to try and find a picture of a healthy sebae. I thought mine was sick because it wasn't white and puffy.

What kind of wattage do you have on your T5 lights?
Mine is under 2x175W 14k Hamilton Metal Halides and loves it.
55g tank for size reference. lol He's huge!

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff158/vdituri/Fish%20Tanks/sebae.jpg

kimsie
05/08/2008, 06:55 AM
WOW! Now that is a beautiful healthy H. Crispa!! :)

BarbMazz
05/08/2008, 07:16 AM
Victor! You have to post a FTS so everyone can see how the rest of your tank is leaning away from your Pet! Sorry I just HAD to say it. :D :rollface:

kimsie
05/08/2008, 07:32 AM
Also - I'd love to see a side picture behind the nem... to see how and where it's anchored!

FishAreFriends2
05/08/2008, 10:37 AM
wow thats a nice look sebea, btw those are ocellaris right?

Man something is really puzzling me, I have had clowns in the pass and they were fine ahd healthy. My last pairs were ocellaris. But recently since I added the sebea, I decided to buy a pair of black saddle backs. They were healthy when I bought them and they took to the nem right away. But the odd thing is the next day they were covered with white slimy patches and after that they wouldn't eat and eventually died. After that I tried again and the same thing happened. IS the sebea releasing something thats causing the clowns to develop this white patch film stuff? Because both times after the clowns took to the nem the next day they'd be covered with the white stuff.

So I guess I will hold off on getting clowns. Because I have no idea why the clowns are getting that white stuff. And it seems that after they take the nem the next day they will have that stuff...

ulli
04/10/2015, 11:26 AM
H.Sebae is probably the hardest to keep anemone to get and according to what ive read not even the professional aquariums are managing to keep them alive longer than a year.

And also be careful not to confuse H.magnifica to H.crispa

Im an anemone guy and ive tryed these couple of times and they always die in few weeks/months ive kept Haddonis that are easy compared to Malu white anemone.

Malu should stay in the sea.btw some of these large carpets and Sebaes can be over ten's or hundreds of years old and its a really sad think to rip them out of the sea just so they can disolve in your aquarium.

DasCamel
04/10/2015, 01:30 PM
H.Sebae is probably the hardest to keep anemone to get and according to what ive read not even the professional aquariums are managing to keep them alive longer than a year.

And also be careful not to confuse H.magnifica to H.crispa

Im an anemone guy and ive tryed these couple of times and they always die in few weeks/months ive kept Haddonis that are easy compared to Malu white anemone.

Malu should stay in the sea.btw some of these large carpets and Sebaes can be over ten's or hundreds of years old and its a really sad think to rip them out of the sea just so they can disolve in your aquarium.

My Crispa just hit a year, compared to the BTA, Haddoni and Magnifica it seems to have definitely been easier.

rathos
04/10/2015, 11:34 PM
I have had my crispa for 4 years. Bought it at Petco (yeah I know) for $20 and it was about 2 inches in diameter and bleached. It has been in three tanks now and is going great. The last move was into a 29 biocube as I am breaking down my bigger tank so it bleached a little at the tips while I was in the process of updating the lights, but it back to normal now. It is the only nem I have been able to keep alive as I have had several BTAs that disappeared in my other two tanks over the years.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rathos/IMG_2724.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/rathos/media/IMG_2724.jpg.html)

ThRoewer
04/11/2015, 05:39 AM
H.Sebae is probably the hardest to keep anemone to get and according to what ive read not even the professional aquariums are managing to keep them alive longer than a year.

And also be careful not to confuse H.magnifica to H.crispa

Im an anemone guy and ive tryed these couple of times and they always die in few weeks/months ive kept Haddonis that are easy compared to Malu white anemone.

Malu should stay in the sea.btw some of these large carpets and Sebaes can be over ten's or hundreds of years old and its a really sad think to rip them out of the sea just so they can disolve in your aquarium.

I think you are confusing a bunch of anemones with each other here.

First, a H. sebae does not exist.

Second, Heteractis crispa (Leathery Anemone) and Heteractis magifica (Magnificent or Ritteri Anemone) are hardly to confuse with each other, not just by looks, coloring and the texture of their tissue but also by behavior - H. magnifica will always try to go to the highest spot in the tank and often end up on the front pane of the tank.
H. magnifica is due to this behavior and bacterial infections one of the most difficult anemones to keep alive in an aquarium.

I think H. malu is the anemone that usually is called Sebae anemone despite not being a natural host for A. sebae (neither is H. crispa). H. malu is very easily confused with H. crispa as a small crispa or one in bad shape can look almost identical to a malu, right down to the color and the purple tips.

H. crispa, if not totally bleached, and colored back up can be very hardy. I kept one for several years in the mid 80s. Back then I was lucky that my bleached crispa picked up some Zooxanthellae from a neighboring anthelia colony and fully regained it's color and then tripled in size. The one I have right now is completely bleached and hasn't regained any color within 3 months. Due to that it started shrinking and I'm not sure if I can still turn it around.

The problem with crispas is that they arrive to 90% bleached at stores.
Even worse, often they bleached already at the exporter and some of those then find it a good idea to dye them in yellow, red or any other color of the rainbow. Any of those is most certainly doomed.

DasCamel
04/11/2015, 11:18 AM
I have had my crispa for 4 years. Bought it at Petco (yeah I know) for $20 and it was about 2 inches in diameter and bleached. It has been in three tanks now and is going great. The last move was into a 29 biocube as I am breaking down my bigger tank so it bleached a little at the tips while I was in the process of updating the lights, but it back to normal now. It is the only nem I have been able to keep alive as I have had several BTAs that disappeared in my other two tanks over the years.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rathos/IMG_2724.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/rathos/media/IMG_2724.jpg.html)

I'm not only me, I've had a tougher time with BTA than the Crispa also. I wonder if it's because the BTA has a harder time finding a sweet spot in the tank and getting adjusted to the flow and lighting. Haddoni, Mag and Crispa have all done better than the BTA in the last year.

rt67ghy
04/11/2015, 02:09 PM
I had an H.crispa for 6 months before i sold it and it stayed the whole time almost in the same spot. It ate magnificently shrimps and squid every other day and doubled in size in 2 months. However, after I introduced a GBTA after 3 months and a haddoni after 5 months the H.crispa stopped eating and seemed to shrink in size. Was it due to the chemical warfare between the 3 or was it because it was bleached when I got it and it hadn't regained its colour, who knows?

The GBTA I had moved around for a whole month before settling. It also ate like a pig and doubled in size in two months. After that it would move around on the slightest excuse.

In my experience the H.crispa was easier to keep from the beginning but was affected later by a lack of zooxanthellae or chemical warfare whereas the BTA didn't seem to be affected by the chemicals from the H.crispa and fared better in the end.

ThRoewer
04/11/2015, 04:48 PM
I had an H.crispa for 6 months before i sold it and it stayed the whole time almost in the same spot. It ate magnificently shrimps and squid every other day and doubled in size in 2 months. However, after I introduced a GBTA after 3 months and a haddoni after 5 months the H.crispa stopped eating and seemed to shrink in size. Was it due to the chemical warfare between the 3 or was it because it was bleached when I got it and it hadn't regained its colour, who knows?

The GBTA I had moved around for a whole month before settling. It also ate like a pig and doubled in size in two months. After that it would move around on the slightest excuse.

In my experience the H.crispa was easier to keep from the beginning but was affected later by a lack of zooxanthellae or chemical warfare whereas the BTA didn't seem to be affected by the chemicals from the H.crispa and fared better in the end.

It was because it was bleached - a bleached anemone may do OK for a while but in the long run it won't survive unless it takes up Zooxanthellae again.

ulli
12/07/2015, 09:16 AM
My Crispa just hit a year, compared to the BTA, Haddoni and Magnifica it seems to have definitely been easier.


done all those but the sebae never thrives for me.
slowly shrinks and eventually just dies, given up on them.

ulli
12/07/2015, 09:26 AM
i was ofc talking about the H.malu not H.crispa being impossible for me at least to keep.

Malu white is often offered from LFS very cheap anemone but very hard to keep.

DasCamel
12/07/2015, 11:29 AM
i was ofc talking about the H.malu not H.crispa being impossible for me at least to keep.

Malu white is often offered from LFS very cheap anemone but very hard to keep.
Divers den gets good ones in great condition.

ulli
12/07/2015, 11:33 AM
Divers den gets good ones in great condition.

Sure they are but the thing is im in iceland :)
We get our stuff from TMC and Dejong.

Geting stuff from a new supplier and have a Gigantea ordered.
Interested to see how that turns out. had to re-range my tank for it

pauls
05/13/2016, 11:43 PM
Sure they are but the thing is im in iceland :)
We get our stuff from TMC and Dejong.

Geting stuff from a new supplier and have a Gigantea ordered.
Interested to see how that turns out. had to re-range my tank for it


Are you and Eskimo :)

nemmy
05/14/2016, 05:42 AM
I'm with the majority here that H. crispa are easy to keep. Mine was also a cheap bleached Petco buy. Had the usual very short stubby tentacles like a malu but eventually had insanely long ones and was tan/brown. Grew from a coffee cup to a dinner plate in 6 months and had to be rehomed. It was under PC lighting.

Pretty sure it ate a bubble tip also. Had one introduced and disappear overnight. The tank was small so a dead bta would have meant a total catastrophe. Took months but my tank bred occys took it as home.

ReefinND
06/19/2017, 02:37 PM
Hello everyone, came across this thread while searching for others opinions on Heteractis crispa and was curious if anyone has had luck with the ones on liveaquaria?

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=497+499+633&pcatid=633